Overseas SM Adventure Travel Since 1978
South Korea & Japan: Temples, Shrines & Seaside Treasures 2018
EXTEND YOUR TRIP
Eastern China: Shanghai & Suzhou
Hiroshima, Japan
Your Travel Handbook CONTENTS
Travel Documents & Entry Requirements . . . 3 Climate ...... 25
Your Passport ...... 3 Climate Averages & Online Forecast ...... 25 Visa Requirements ...... 3 Trusted Traveler Programs ...... 4 About Your Destinations ...... 28 Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents . . . . 5 . . . .28 Overseas Taxes & Fees ...... 5 O.A.T. Trip Leaders: A World of Difference Culture & Points to Know ...... 28 Safety & Security ...... 29 Health ...... 6 Shopping ...... 31 Is This Adventure Right for You? ...... 6 U .S . Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges ...... 33 Steps to Take Before Your Trip ...... 7 No Vaccines Required ...... 7 Staying Healthy on Your Trip ...... 9 Demographics & History ...... 34
Money Matters ...... 11 Resources ...... 45 Top Three Tips ...... 11 Suggested Readings ...... 45 Local Currency ...... 11 Suggested Movies ...... 48 How to Exchange Money ...... 12 Useful Websites ...... 51 ATMs ...... 12 Credit & Debit Cards ...... 13 Tipping Guidelines ...... 13
Preparing for Your Trip ...... 15
Land Only Travelers & Personalized Air . . . . .15 Optional Tours ...... 15 Communications ...... 16
Packing ...... 18
Your Luggage ...... 19 Clothing Suggestions ...... 19 What to Bring ...... 20 Electricity ...... 22
2 JKO2018 06/28/2018 TRAVEL DOCUMENTS & ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
Your Passport • Must be in good condition
• Must be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S.
• Must have the required number of blank pages (details below)
• The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable
Need to Renew Your Passport? Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport
Recommended Blank Pages Please confirm that your passport has enough blank pages for this adventure.
• Main trip: You will require 3 blank passport pages.
• Pre-trip extension to Shanghai: You will need 2 more blank pages for a total of 5.
• Post-trip extension to Hiroshima: This extension does require any additional pages.
• Both pre- and post-trip extensions: You will need a total of 5 blank pages.
Please note: You might not use all of these pages on your adventure (when you return, some may still be blank) but local officials will want to see that you have them.
Visa Requirements Travelers with a U.S. passport do not need visas for South Korea or Japan. However, you might need a visa for China if you are taking the Eastern China: Shanghai & Suzhou pre-trip extension. China currently has a 6-day visa exemption for U.S. citizens so long as they:
• Enter China in one of three places: Any airport or port of entry in Shanghai; Nanjing Lukou International Airport; or Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport.
• Stay only in Shanghai, Jiangsu Province (where Suzhou is located), and Zhejiang Province.
• Do not stay longer than 144 hours total.
• Can show proof of an onward flight to another country, like South Korea.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 3 Our extension meets all of these requirements. So unless you have made special arrangements to personalize your itinerary—i.e. to fly over early, travel independently in China, or do two trips back-to-back—you will not need a visa for China. All you need to do is bring a copy of your air itinerary with you on the trip. (We will provide one in your Final Documents booklet.)
IMPORTANT: If you have personalized your trip—for example, if you will be flying over early, even by a day—then you probably will need a Chinese visa after all. Call our recommend visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 to confirm—or contact the nearest Chinese consulate—at least two months before you depart. We cannot be held responsible if you fail to get a visa that is needed or if you apply unnecessarily (in which case the visa would be non-refundable), so please confirm first.
Traveling Without a U.S. Passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about visa requirements. We recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www. pvsinternational.org.
Traveling With a Minor? Some governments may require certain documentation for minors to enter and depart the country or to obtain a visa (if applicable). For further detail on the required documentation, please contact your local embassy or consulate.
Trusted Traveler Programs Some travelers have found that Trusted Traveler programs can expedite long waits at customs when re entering the U.S. There are currently three programs available: Global Entry, NEXUS, and SENTRI. These three programs also include TSA Pre-Check, which allows you to use a dedicated security line at participating airports, or you can apply solely for TSA Pre-Check.
TIP: Keep in mind that not all airports and airlines participate in these programs. You may want to consider checking with your airport prior to applying to find out if these programs would benefit you.
To apply for a Trusted Traveler program or TSA Pre-Check, typically you will be asked to pay an application fee (varies by program) and schedule a background check and/or an interview. If you are approved, you will be issued a Known Traveler Number (KTN). Your KTN is valid for a set number of years, based on the conditions of the program. Please see the U.S. Customs and Border Protection website for more details on each of these programs: www.cbp.gov/ travel/trusted-traveler-programs. You can also find more information about TSA Pre-Check at www.tsa.gov/precheck.
If you are enrolled in TSA Pre-Check (or a Trusted Traveler program that includes it), you must provide your KTN to the airlines.
4 JKO2018 06/28/2018 Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents We recommend you carry color photocopies of key documents including the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, air itinerary, credit cards (front and back), and an alternative form of ID. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals.
If you plan to email this information to yourself, please keep in mind that email is not always secure; consider using password protection or encryption. Also email is not always available worldwide. As an alternative, you could load these documents onto a flash drive instead, which can do double-duty as a place to backup photos during your trip.
Overseas Taxes & Fees This tour may have taxes and fees that cannot be included in your airline ticket price because you are required to pay them in person onsite. All taxes are subject to change without notice and can be paid in cash (either U.S. or local currency). If applicable, you will receive a list of these fees with your Final Documents.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 5 HEALTH
Is This Adventure Right for You? Please review the information below prior to departing on this adventure. We reserve the right for our Trip Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.
PACING • 6 locations in 17 days
• 1 pre-dawn departure
PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS • Not appropriate for travelers using wheelchairs or other mobility aids
• Must be able to walk 2-3 miles unassisted each day and participate in 3-5 hours of daily physical activities, including scaling several steep steps without handrails
CLIMATE • Daytime temperatures are typically between 50-60°F in early spring, 85-95°F in summer, and 50-70°F in fall
TERRAIN & TRANSPORTATION • Travel over some rugged paths, as well as bumpy roads, by bus and on foot
• Travel via bus commuter train and bullet train, taxi, ferry, small boat, motorcoach and subway
• Several long overland drives of 3-5 hours
ACCOMMODATIONS & FACILITIES • We stay in a Buddhist temple for one night, sleeping on futon-like floor mats. Each room features air conditioning and en suite bath facilities. Accommodations in all other locations are hotel-standard, with a variety of amenities and personal services.
• Asian squat-style toilets must be used in some villages without other facilities
• Because Japan is becoming a very popular destination for solo travelers, please be aware that single hotel rooms in Japan tend to be notably smaller than those in the U.S., and don’t always feature closets.
6 JKO2018 06/28/2018 • Some hotels and restaurants in Japan still have designated areas for smoking. While O.A.T. strives to provide our travelers with non-smoking hotel rooms at all times and works with local restaurants to limit smoking while our groups are present, please note that you may encounter cigarette smoke odor during your visit to Japan.
CUISINE • Meals will be based on the local cuisine; Western food is limited
Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on this adventure, we recommend the following:
• Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636.
• Have a medical checkup with your doctor at least 6 weeks before your trip.
• Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter.
• Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less urgent)
No Vaccines Required At the time of writing there were no required vaccines for this trip. The CDC recommends that all travelers be up to date on their routine vaccinations and on basic travel vaccines like Hepatitis A and Typhoid, but these are suggestions only. However, this could change in future so we encourage you to check with the CDC yourself before meeting with your doctor.
Medication Suggestions • An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness
• Prescription pain medication in the unlikely event of an injury in a remote location
Traveling with Medications • Pack medications in your carry-on bag to avoid loss and to have them handy.
• Keep medicines in their original, labeled containers for a quicker security screen at the airport and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas.
• Bring copies of your prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name to be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 7 We recommend checking with the State Department for medication restrictions by country: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel- Country-Information-Pages.html. (Pick the country and then follow the links to “Local Laws & Special Circumstances”; if you don’t see any medications specifically mentioned, then you can presume major U.S. brands should be OK).
Bringing Medications to South Korea At time of writing, the State Department had detailed instructions about bringing medications into South Korea. We encourage you to read the entire post online, but here are the key points:
• Prescription medications containing narcotics and/or amphetamines are not permitted without a “bring-in permit letter” that must be obtained in advance from the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. Over-the-counter amphetamines are illegal to bring into South Korea.
• For prescription medications not containing narcotics or amphetamines, travelers are allowed to bring up to six bottles of medication (a three month supply) for personal use. All medications must be accompanied by the original prescriptions, a letter from your doctor specifying the medical condition being treated with the prescriptions, and a statement from your doctor listing the medications that you will be bringing into South Korea.
• For more information on whether or not you will be allowed to bring the particular medication into South Korea, you could consult the U.S. Embassy Seoul website at http:// seoul.usembassy.gov/acs_health.html.
Bringing Medications to Japan At time of writing, the Japanese embassy had detailed instructions about bringing medications into Japan on their website, www.us.emb-japan.go.jp. We encourage you to read the entire post online, but here are the key points:
• You can generally bring up to one month’s supply of prescription medicine into Japan, and up to two months’ supply of over-the-counter medications
• Some over-the-counter medicines commonly used in the United States are illegal in Japan, including inhalers, plus some allergy and sinus medications. Specifically, products that contain stimulants (medicines that contain pseudoephedrine, such as Actifed, Sudafed, and Vicks inhalers) or codeine are prohibited.
• For prescription medications, you must bring a copy of your doctor’s prescription as well as a letter stating the purpose of the drug. However, some U.S. prescription medications (such as Adderall) cannot be brought into Japan, even with a copy of the prescription.
8 JKO2018 06/28/2018 • For more information on whether or not you will be allowed to bring the particular medication into Japan, you could consult the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare website at www.mhlw.go.jp/english/index.html. NOTE: We only recommend that you take this step if the medication is vital to you. If you don’t care that the medication might be confiscated, then it is not worth the effort.
Staying Healthy on Your Trip
Jet Lag Tips • Start your trip well-rested.
• Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane.
• Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule.
• Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during– your flight.
• Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying
• Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane.
• After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap.
• Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day.
• Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.
Allergies If you have any serious allergies or dietary restrictions, we advise you to notify us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814, and we will communicate them to our regional office. Every effort will be made to accommodate you.
Special Meal Requests If you have a dietary preference (i.e. Atkins diet, low-salt, etc.) or religious diet, please let us know at least 30 days prior to your departure. Keep in mind that these types of special meal requests are not guaranteed; especially in China where most restaurants do not offer them due to cultural differences. But since most meals in China are served family-style, with a variety of meat and vegetarian options, most travelers will find something they can enjoy.
Water • Tap water in South Korea and Japan is safe to drink. If you prefer bottled water, it is readily available.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 9 • In China, tap water is not safe to drink but bottled water is readily available. Inspect each bottle before you buy it to make sure the cap is sealed properly. Bottled drinks and hot drinks that have been boiled are safe to drink. Avoid drinks with ice in them.
Food • In general, food safety standards in South Korea and Japan are very high. Use the same basic precautions that you would at home and you should be fine.
• In China, we’ve carefully chosen the restaurants for your group meals, and fresh fruits and salads at these establishments are generally as safe as they are in restaurants in the U.S. Your Trip Leader can suggest restaurants for any meals you take on your own. Be very careful with food sold from vendors on the street, and with uncooked fruit and other foods. Fruit that you peel yourself is usually safe—avoid lettuce and other unpeeled produce.
10 JKO2018 06/28/2018 MONEY MATTERS
Top Three Tips • Bring a mixture of different payment methods—some cash and a couple of different cards—so that you’ll be prepared for any situation.
• Be prepared to try more than one ATM. Occasionally local ATMs will not work with certain cards. For example, there was temporary stop on MasterCards at 7-Eleven ATMs in Japan a few years ago. So you may need to try more than one machine or try a different card.
• Traveler’s checks are not recommended. They can be difficult to exchange and the commission fee for cashing them is quite high. It’s more practical to view them as a last resort in the event of a special situation.
Local Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to an online converter tool like www.xe.com/ currencyconverter, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.
South Korea The official currency of South Korea is the Korean Won (KRW). Banknotes and coins come in denominations of:
• Banknotes: 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, 50,000
• Coins: 10, 50, 100 and 500
Japan The official currency of Japan is the yen.
• Bills come in denominations of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 yen
• Coins come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 50, 100, and 500
U.S. dollars are not commonly accepted in Japan.
China The official currency in China is called the renminbi (“people’s money”) and is abbreviated RMB. The main unit of currency is the yuan, which is divided into 10 jiao (pronounced as mao).
• Bills come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 yuan, as well as 1, 2, and 5 jiao, and 1, 2, and 5 fen.
• Coins come in denominations of 1 yuan, as well as 1 and 5 jiao.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 11 In China you usually pay with local currency at shops and restaurants and tip in local currency too. But U.S. dollars may be accepted by some street vendors or the government’s Friendship Stores. Each time you change money, you will receive a receipt. Keep these exchange slips. You can exchange any leftover Chinese yuan bills at the airport before you depart from mainland China.
Hong Kong & Macau SARs Although Hong Kong and Macau are now part of China, the cities have their own currencies— the Hong Kong dollar (HKD) and Macanese pataca (MOP)—as a holdover from when they weren’t Chinese territories. In Hong Kong, U.S. dollars are usually not accepted for payment, so you’ll need Hong Kong dollars. Some larger shops will accept Chinese yuan, but usually at a poor exchange rate. Hong Kong dollars are also widely accepted in Macau, but Macanese pataca aren’t accepted in Hong Kong.
How to Exchange Money If you want to exchange money before your trip, you can usually do so through your bank or at an exchange office. Your departure airport in the U.S., a travel agent, or an AAA office are also possible outlets.
During the trip, the easiest way to get local currency is to use a local ATM (your bank at home will convert and charge you in U.S. dollars). You can also exchange cash at some hotels and money exchange offices. To exchange cash, you’ll usually need your passport and bills in good condition (not worn, torn, or dirty). Never exchange money on the street.
All exchange methods involve fees, which may be built into the conversion rate; ask beforehand.
ATMs When using the ATM, keep in mind that it may only accept cards from local banks, and may not allow cash advances on credit cards; you might need to try more than one ATM or more than one card.
Many banks charge a fee of $1-$5 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart.
Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)
South Korea: ATMs are very common. Look for ATMs listed as a “Global ATM” as they accept international cards.
12 JKO2018 06/28/2018 Japan: ATMs are common, but not every ATM will take a U.S. card. Your best bet is to try a Post Office ATM or Seven Bank ATM (usually found inside 7-Eleven convenience stores). Both Post Office and Seven Bank ATM will display stickers that indicate what cards they accept. However, please note that using a credit card in an ATM for a cash advance may or may not work—even if the ATM has credit card logos.
China: ATMs are very common in cities and towns, but may not be available in rural villages.
Credit & Debit Cards Even if you don’t plan on using a credit card during your trip, we still suggest that you bring one or two as a backup, especially if you are planning a large purchase (artwork, jewelry). We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (i.e. Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.
South Korea: Credit cards are common but may not be accepted by street vendors or at small restaurants.
Japan: Credit cards can be used at department stores, hotels, and businesses that cater to tourists, but most other shops and restaurants will want cash.
China: Credit card use is common at hotels and shops, although many restaurants are still “cash only”. Credit card use is less common in rural villages or remote areas, like Tibet or Inner Mongolia.
Notify Card Providers Many credit card companies and banks have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges or withdrawals from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company and/or bank you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure. Some banks or credit card companies will also let you do this online.
You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!
Tipping Guidelines Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. Listed below are our recommendations for the tips that are not included in your tour price:
06/28/2018 JKO2018 13 O.A.T. Trip Leader: It is customary to express a personal “thank you” to your O.A.T. Trip Leader at the end of your trip, especially if he or she has provided you with individual service. As a guideline, many travelers give $7-$10 USD (or equivalent in local currency) per person per day.
• Housekeepers: $1-2 per room per night is customary.
• Your tour price includes gratuities on the main trip and extensions for local guides, drivers, and luggage porters that may assist you during the scheduled activities on your adventure.
14 JKO2018 06/28/2018 PREPARING FOR YOUR TRIP
Land Only Travelers & Personalized Air If you plan on booking your own international flights or arranging with our air department to arrive/depart on an earlier/later date than standard for your program, airport transfers will NOT be included in your program price, unless otherwise noted. For eligible flights, transfers may be purchased separately, as an optional add-on, and are subject to availability. To be eligible, your flight(s) must meet the following requirements:
• You must fly into or fly home from the same airport as O.A.T. travelers who purchased included airfare.
• Your flight(s) must arrive/depart on the same day that the group arrives or departs.
Airport transfers can be purchased up to 45 days prior to your departure; they are not available for purchase onsite. To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.
Reminder: If you’ve personalized your flights to arrive early, stay longer, or stop in a connecting city (not as part of a Stopover package), you are responsible for arranging a hotel for any additional nights. For your convenience, a preliminary list of your included hotels is available on your My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount under “My Reservations.”
If you are taking the optional post-trip extension to Hiroshima and have made your own air arrangements, your return airport transfer to the Hiroshima Airport (HIJ) will be included if you are departing the same day as the group. You will need to arrange your own transportation if you are staying on your own after the conclusion of the post-trip.
Optional Tours Optional tours are additional add-on tours that allow you to personalize your adventure by tailoring it to your tastes and needs. And if you decide not to join an optional tour? Then you’ll have free time to relax or explore on your own—it’s about options, not obligations.
What You Need to Know • All optional tours are subject to change and availability.
• Optional tours that are reserved with your Trip Leader can be paid for using credit/debit cards only. We accept MasterCard, Visa, and Discover credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.)
06/28/2018 JKO2018 15 • To ensure that you are charged in U.S. dollars, your payment will be processed by our U.S. headquarters in Boston. This process can take up to three months, so we ask that you only use a card that will still be valid three months after your trip is over. The charge may appear on your credit card statement as being from Boston, MA or may be labeled as “OPT Boston”.
• Your Trip Leader will give you details on the optional tours while you’re on the trip. But if you’d like to look over descriptions of them earlier, you can do so at any time by referring to your Day-to-Day Itinerary (available online by signing into My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount).
Communications To ensure you are available during your trip to friends and relatives at home, you will receive two copies of your hotel list, including phone numbers, with your Final Documents. One copy is for you to bring, and one to leave behind with friends or relatives in case they need to contact you during the trip.
Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone can accept one.
Calling Apps Another option is to use a smartphone app like Skype or FaceTime. These services are usually less expensive than making a traditional call, but you’ll need a Wi-Fi connection and the calls may count towards your phone plan’s data allowance. Many smartphones—and some tablets or laptops—come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download them for free from the appropriate apps store.
Calling Cards & 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.). One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.
How to Call Overseas
16 JKO2018 06/28/2018 When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. Note that foreign phone numbers may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even within a country the number of digits can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.
South Korea: +82 China: +86
Japan: +81
06/28/2018 JKO2018 17 PACKING
Luggage Limits
MAIN TRIP LIMITS
Pieces per person One checked bag and one carry-on per person .
Weight restrictions Varies by international airline. The current industry standard is 50lbs for checked luggage and 15lbs for carry-ons .
Size Restrictions Standard airline size: checked luggage should not exceed 62 linear inches (length+ width + depth) and carry-on should not exceed 45 linear inches .
Luggage Type Duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase . A model with wheels is strongly recommended .
TRIP EXTENSION(S) LIMITS
Same as the main trip .
REMARKS/SUGGESTIONS
An additional small bag is a necessity for certain portions of your trip. You’ll need it for those times when luggage storage is so limited that we must send some luggage ahead . This smaller bag can be a duffle, a backpack, a weekend bag—whatever you feel comfortable with . It only needs to hold enough gear for three nights at most . For more details, see the “Your Luggage” section .
Luggage rules: Luggage rules and limits are set by governmental and airline policy . Enforcement of the rules may include spot checks or may be inconsistent . However one thing is the same across the board: If you are found to have oversized or overweight luggage, you will be subject to additional fees, to be assessed by—and paid to—the airline in question .
Don’t Forget: • These luggage limits may change. If the airline(s) notify us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet.
• It’s a good idea to reconfirm baggage restrictions and fees directly with the airline a week or so prior to departure. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website in the FAQ section.
• Baggage fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines.
18 JKO2018 06/28/2018 • The luggage limits above are based on your regional flights, which may be less than your international flights. Even if your international airline offers a larger weight limit, you will need to pack according to the lower restrictions.
Your Luggage A small bag is a necessity for certain portions of your trip.
There will be one occasion on the main trip and one occasion on the optional post-trip extension when your main luggage (your suitcase or large duffle bag) will be sent ahead because of the limited luggage space on the trains in Japan. During these times you won’t have access to your main luggage, so you’ll need to use a smaller bag instead. This smaller bag can be a duffle, a backpack, a weekend bag – whatever you feel comfortable with. It only needs to hold enough gear for three nights at most. Many travelers will simply re-purpose the bag they used as a carry-on during their flight. Or you could pack the smaller bag into your suitcase or big duffle.
TIP: For both your main luggage and smaller bag, you might want to consider a model with wheels. While OAT will provide for porter services when available, in South Korea and Japan more often than not this service is not offered. There is no porter service at the airport and train stations, and most of the hotels do not offer porter service either. For that reason we suggest you bring only the amount of baggage that you feel comfortable handling yourself and we strongly suggest luggage with built-in wheels.
Locks For flights that originate in the U.S., you can either use a TSA-approved lock or leave your luggage unlocked. Outside of the U.S. we strongly recommend locking your luggage as a theft-prevention measure.
Clothing Suggestions
Functional Tips As you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions, we suggest several layers of clothing. Laundromats are not readily available outside of residential areas. Some of the hotels you visit may have laundry services. However, it is recommended that you pack as if you will be hand washing all your items. Look for fabrics that will dry out overnight. You can buy clothing designed especially for travel, with features like wrinkle-resistant fabric or built-in sun protection.
• Footwear: You’ll be on your feet a lot during the trip, and walking over some rough and slippery surfaces. We recommend you wear sturdy walking shoes or similar supportive sports shoes that offer good traction. You may want to consider taking shoes that don’t have laces, as you will be asked to take your shoes off in a number of the places, such as at shrines and castles and during the home-hosted visit. In the winter it can be very cold, even indoors to walk on theses floors. We suggest you bring some thick, insulated socks.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 19 Visiting the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) Plan to dress modestly when visiting the DMZ as there are strict guidelines in place. We recommend that you wear long pants (either khakis or clean jeans with no rips/tears) and a long-sleeved shirt with close-toed shoes. The following clothing items are prohibited when visiting the DMZ:
• T-shirts, tank tops, sleeveless shirts, shirts with anything deemed to be insulting or provocative, and sweatshirts
• Shorts and short skirts
• Workout or exercise clothing
• Open-toed shoes, sandals, and flip flops
• Military clothing
• Oversize or baggy clothing
• Anything deemed to be “biker attire”, including leather vests, jackets, etc.
Style Hints Dress on our trip is functional and casual. Wearing shorts is acceptable in most situations for both men and women. There is no strict dress code (except at the DMZ), but when visiting temples or shrines local people would appreciate it if you dressed neatly and modestly.
What to Bring We have included suggestions from Trip Leaders and former travelers to help you pack. These lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You may also want to consult the “Climate” chapter of this handbook.
Recommended Clothing ❑❑Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts in a breathable fabric, like cotton or cotton-blend. Polo shirts are more versatile than T-shirts.
❑❑Trousers and/or jeans: Comfortable and loose fitting is best. Avoid tight-fitting jeans for comfort and ease of movement.
❑❑Walking shorts: Cut long for modesty ❑❑For women–1 or 2 travel skirts: Our female Trip Leaders suggest that a skirt is especially convenient when using Asian-style squat toilets.
20 JKO2018 06/28/2018 ❑❑Shoes and socks: Shoes should be comfortable walking or running shoes. Shoes that can be slipped on, or lace-free shoes are recommended because you will need to remove your shoes often in temples and holy sites. Because it is very common to removed shoes at temples, you may wish to bring extra “temple socks”. If traveling in the winter we suggest you bring thick, insulated socks as some temples are not heated and the floor will be cold.
❑❑Wide-brim sun hat or visor for sun protection ❑❑Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood ❑❑Light cotton or wool sweater as motorcoach air conditioning can be cold ❑❑Underwear and sleepwear
Essential Items ❑❑Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, etc. Hotels will provide soap and shampoo, but usually not provide a washcloths.
❑❑Spare eyeglasses/contact lens; sunglasses ❑❑Sunscreen, SPF 15 or stronger ❑❑Insect repellent ❑❑Light folding umbrella ❑❑Moisturizer and sun-blocking chapstick ❑❑Pocket-size tissues ❑❑Moist towelettes and/or anti-bacterial “water-free” hand cleanser ❑❑Plug adapters and electrical transformer: see “A Word About Electricity” for details. ❑❑Camera gear with extra batteries or battery charger ❑❑Overnight bag good for 3 nights’ worth of clothing/gear
06/28/2018 JKO2018 21 Medicines & First Aid Gear IMPORTANT TIP: At time of writing, the State Department had detailed instructions about bringing medications into South Korea and Japan. We encourage you to check their website at http://travel.state. gov and search “Medications and South Korea” and “Medications and Japan”. ❑❑Your own prescription medicines ❑❑Travel first aid kit: Band-Aids, headache and pain relief, laxatives and anti-diarrhea tablets, something for upset stomach. Maybe a cold remedy, moleskin foot pads, antibiotic cream, or allergy medication.
❑❑Optional: An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness ❑❑Optional: A strong prescription pain medication, for rare emergency purposes
Optional Gear ❑❑Travel alarm or travel watch with alarm ❑❑Basic sewing kit ❑❑Hand-wash laundry soap and maybe and plastic hang-up clothespins ❑❑Reading materials ❑❑Travel journal/note pad and pens ❑❑Home address book ❑❑Photos or post cards from home, small gift for Home-Hosted visit ❑❑Phrase book ❑❑Folding walking staff, sold in most camping stores ❑❑Pocket-size calculator for exchange rates
Electricity When traveling overseas, the voltage is usually different and the plugs might not be the same shape.
Voltage Electricity in South Korea and China is 220 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers—can run off both 110 and 220. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm
22 JKO2018 06/28/2018 this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)
Electricity in Japan is 100 volts. The types of things a traveler will want to plug in can run off both 100 and 110, but they might be a little slower or may take a little longer to charge in Japan.
Plugs The shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. To plug something from the U.S. into a local socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Because there are many different types of plugs on this adventure, it may be easier to purchase an all-in-one, universal adapter/converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.
Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:
South Korea: C and F
Japan: A (same at the U.S.)
06/28/2018 JKO2018 23 China: A (same as the U.S.)
Type C Type F Type A
Availability Barring the occasional and unpredictable power outage, electricity is as readily available on this adventure as it is in the U.S.
24 JKO2018 06/28/2018 CLIMATE
South Korea: The climate in South Korea is temperate and is characterized by four distinct seasons, similar to the east coast of the United States. Spring and autumn are temperate, offering mild temperatures and little rainfall. The warm spring weather coaxes flowers into bloom, creating colorful landscapes. Autumn brings cooler weather and brilliant clear blue skies perfectly juxtaposed against the orange and red foliage. The summer months bring a hot and humid climate, peaking from late July to late August. The majority of South Korea’s annual rainfall also occurs during the summer months. The summer months yield bountiful fresh fruits and vegetables and leave the mountains covered in luscious green. Although South Korea does not experience typhoons on the same scale as Southeast Asia, typically one to three typhoons hit South Korea each year. The typhoon season runs from June to September. Winters are the longest season with cold and dry weather typically in the 20s and 30s. Snow topped mountains are a common sight, though it does not often snow in the plains. A phenomenon known as samhansaon occurs during the winter—a seven-day cycle during which the region experiences three cold days followed by four milder days.
Japan: Most of Japan lies in a temperate zone with weather conditions similar to the east coast of the United States. The four distinct seasons play a significant role in Japanese culture, with festivals, religious sites, dress, and even table settings all linked to the changing of seasons. Spring can be very unpredictable and temperatures often fluctuate, and the plum and cherry blossoms touch the entire landscape with splashes of whites and pinks. June and July bring the summer rains, which can be quite heavy at times, along with temperatures in the 80s and some humidity. Weather during September can be briefly turbulent, with some fast- moving thunderstorms inland and occasional typhoons over the ocean. The rest of autumn is spectacular, with slightly cool days, clear blue skies, and stunning foliage. Winter days are chilly but temperatures don’t often drop below freezing. Snow falls most abundantly in the northern part of the country and along the coast of the Sea of Japan, making skiing a favorite means of enjoying the winter landscape. Please bring with warm clothing.
Shanghai: Shanghai is a coastal city with long, warm, humid summers. Autumn is typically cooler with some rain; heavier showers fall in spring.
Climate Averages & Online Forecast The following charts reflect theaverage climate as opposed to exact weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. An extreme heat wave or cold snap could fall outside these ranges. As your departure approaches, we encourage you to go online to www.oattravel.com/myaccount for your 10-day forecast.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 25 Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), Humidity & Monthly Rainfall
MONTH SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA GYEONGJU, SOUTH KOREA
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthy Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 33 to 21 72 to 52 1 .0 39 to 24 - 1 .4 FEB 38 to 25 72 to 50 1 .4 42 to 28 - 1 .6 MAR 49 to 35 74 to 47 2 .2 51 to 32 - 2 .6 APR 62 to 46 75 to 46 3 .0 64 to 42 - 3 .8 MAY 72 to 55 80 to 50 4 .5 73 to 53 - 3 .7 JUN 79 to 64 85 to 58 6 .8 80 to 62 - 6 .8 JUL 82 to 71 90 to 70 18 .0 84 to 71 - 9 .9 AUG 84 to 72 87 to 66 7 .2 86 to 71 - 8 .8 SEP 77 to 63 85 to 56 7 .2 78 to 60 - 6 .2 OCT 66 to 51 81 to 49 2 .4 69 to 48 - 2 .1 NOV 51 to 38 76 to 51 2 .4 57 to 37 - 2 .0 DEC 38 to 27 74 to 54 1 .0 44 to 30 - 1 .3
MONTH TOKYO, JAPAN KYOTO, JAPAN
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (avg) (inches) JAN 48 to 35 61 to 46 2 .0 46 to 30 70 2 .2 FEB 49 to 36 63 to 49 2 .8 48 to 32 65 2 .6 MAR 54 to 41 69 to 55 4 .2 53 to 33 60 4 .3 APR 64 to 50 76 to 60 5 .1 66 to 44 60 5 .9 MAY 72 to 58 79 to 61 5 .7 73 to 51 65 5 .7 JUN 76 to 66 87 to 71 6 .9 80 to 60 70 9 .2 JUL 82 to 71 89 to 72 5 .3 87 to 69 70 8 .0 AUG 86 to 75 87 to 68 5 .8 89 to 71 70 5 .8 SEP 79 to 69 85 to 69 8 .5 82 to 64 70 7 .9 OCT 69 to 58 78 to 64 7 .6 71 to 51 70 5 .0 NOV 61 to 49 72 to 58 3 .8 60 to 41 70 3 .2 DEC 53 to 40 65 to 50 2 .1 51 to 32 70 2 .1
26 JKO2018 06/28/2018 MONTH HIROSHIMA, JAPAN SAPPORO, JAPAN
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 47 to 35 78 to 53 1 .9 28 to 17 78 to 71 3 .1 FEB 48 to 35 79 to 54 2 .6 30 to 16 79 to 69 2 .5 MAR 54 to 40 79 to 55 4 .2 37 to 24 81 to 66 2 .5 APR 64 to 49 78 to 55 6 .5 50 to 37 83 to 61 3 .1 MAY 71 to 57 81 to 58 6 .1 62 to 47 86 to 63 2 .9 JUN 77 to 66 86 to 68 10 .0 69 to 56 90 to 71 3 .3 JUL 84 to 74 88 to 70 9 .1 76 to 63 90 to 71 4 .6 AUG 87 to 75 85 to 65 4 .3 78 to 66 91 to 73 6 .1 SEP 80 to 68 85 to 65 7 .5 71 to 56 90 to 67 6 .7 OCT 71 to 57 82 to 57 4 .2 60 to 44 84 to 63 4 .0 NOV 61 to 47 82 to 55 2 .6 46 to 34 77 to 65 4 .2 DEC 52 to 39 80 to 54 1 .8 34 to 23 78 to 69 3 .4
MONTH SHANGHAI, CHINA
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 45 to 34 84 to 65 1 .8 FEB 47 to 36 84 to 64 2 .4 MAR 53 to 42 87 to 68 3 .3 APR 65 to 52 88 to 67 3 .7 MAY 74 to 61 90 to 67 4 .1 JUN 81 to 69 92 to 73 6 .8 JUL 88 to 77 92 to 74 5 .7 AUG 87 to 77 92 to 73 5 .4 SEP 72 to 59 88 to 66 2 .7 OCT 61 to 48 86 to 64 2 .1 NOV 61 to 48 86 to 64 2 .1 DEC 51 to 37 84 to 61 1 .5
06/28/2018 JKO2018 27 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS
O.A.T. Trip Leaders: A World of Difference During your adventure you’ll be accompanied by one of our local, expert Trip Leaders. All are fluent in English and possess the skills, certification, and experience necessary to ensure an enriching adventure. As locals of the regions you’ll explore with them, our Trip Leaders provide the kind of firsthand knowledge and insight that make local history, culture, and wildlife come alive. Coupled with their unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and ability to bring diverse groups of travelers together, our Trip Leaders ensure that your experience with O.A.T. is one you’ll remember for a lifetime.
Culture & Points to Know
Accommodations On this adventure, you will experience some unique accommodations, such as an overnight stay at a temple in Daegu, South Korea and ryokan (traditional inn) in Japan.
Temple: The temple stay in South Korea is truly an immersive experience, and as such, we will be staying in simple traditional-style rooms. The sleeping arrangements are very basic, consisting of a thin mattress on the floor with no bed frame, a pillow, and a blanket. Each small room features a private toilet, a simple shower head, and air conditioning. Barring any usual circumstances, you’ll have a private room.
Depending on the weather, the temple may provide a cotton outfit, which is considered best for the hot and humid weather in the summer. You are not required to wear this, but doing so would be appreciated by the monks and temple staff.
Ryokan: During our time in Japan, we’ll stay for two nights in a ryokan, or Japanese-style inn. While these inns feature many modern amenities (TV, Internet service, etc.), the bedding is purely traditional—futon-style mattresses on the floor without a bed frame. Occasionally the ryokan might be able to arrange a Western-style bed. But this is not guaranteed, and would incur a fee that you would be responsible for paying directly to the inn. If you would like to request a Western-style bed, please let your Trip Leader know and he or she will check on availability and pricing.
Japan in general: Please be aware that single hotel rooms in Japan (i.e. a room for one traveler only) tend to be notably smaller than those in the U.S., and don’t always feature closets. Also, some hotels and restaurants in Japan still have designated areas for smoking. While
O.A.T. strives to provide our travelers with non-smoking hotel rooms at all times (and works with local restaurants to limit smoking while our groups are present), you may encounter cigarette smoke odor during your visit to Japan.
28 JKO2018 06/28/2018 Dietary Restrictions Our meals will be based on the local cuisine. Western foods will be available at breakfast and some lunches, but otherwise we will experience the foods of South Korea, Japan, and China (on the optional extension)—many of them containing ingredients that are new and different to us. Some special accommodations can be made for dietary restrictions or allergies, but this is not always guaranteed; if you have any allergies or special requests please let your Trip Leader know. If you are sensitive to MSG, please keep in mind that this is a very common ingredient in Asia, and that it may not be possible to avoid it entirely.
Language Barrier You can have some great “conversations” with local people who do not speak English, even if you don’t speak a word of the local language. Indeed, this non-verbal communication can be a highly rewarding part of travel. To break the ice, bring along some family photographs, or a few postcards of your hometown. If you want to meet kids, bring a puppet or other interactive toy. Your Trip Leader can help get the ball rolling. Keep in mind, however, that it is always good form to know at least a few words in the local language.
Taking Photographs The etiquette of photographing most people in the countries on your itinerary is about the same as it would be on the streets of your hometown. You need permission to take a close-up, but not for a crowd scene. Be especially polite if you want to photograph an older woman. If you want to shoot a great portrait, show interest in your subject, try to have a bit of social interaction first. Then use sign language to inquire if a picture is OK. Your Trip Leader can help.
Safety & Security As you travel, exercise the same caution and awareness that you would in a large American city. Don’t be overly nervous or suspicious, but keep your eyes open. If you are venturing out after dark, go with one or two other people.
Carry a one-day supply of cash in your pocket. Carry most of your money, and your passport, in a travel pouch or money belt under your shirt. Replenish your pocket supply when you are in a safe and quiet place, or in our vehicle. Don’t leave valuables unattended in your hotel room. Most hotels will offer use of a hotel safe at the front desk or an electronic in-room safe (for which you can set your own personal number). Please utilize them.
Pickpockets may create a sudden distraction. In any sort of puzzling street situation, try to keep one hand on your money belt. If an encounter with a local turns out to be long and complicated and involves money or your valuables, be very careful. Con artists sometimes target travelers.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 29 Cuisine in Japan There are more than a dozen types of Japanese cuisine, each of which is distinctly different. Generally, only one type of cuisine is served in a given restaurant—for example raw seafood is served in a sushi bar, while tempura is featured at a tempura counter. There are, of course, some exceptions. Fancier restaurants tend to offer more choice. Below are brief descriptions of some of the main cuisines.
• Kushiage: Kushiage foods are breaded and deep-fried on skewers and include chicken, beef, seafood, and lots of seasonal vegetables (snow peas, green pepper, gingko nuts, lotus root, and the like). They’re served with a specialty sauce and slice of lemon.
• Okonomiyaki: This cooking style originated in Osaka after World War II. It is a sort of Japanese pizza. A pancake is topped with meat or fish, shredded cabbage, vegetables, and Worcestershire sauce.
• Robatayaki: Robatayaki refers to restaurants in which seafood and vegetables are cooked over an open charcoal grill. All types of food ingredients are on the menu; the cooking distinction is that all foods are grilled.
• Sashimi & Sushi: Sashimi is simply raw seafood, usually eaten alone (without rice), and dipped into a mixture of wasabi and soy sauce. Sushi is raw fish with vinegared rice. It comes in many varieties, and is also served with wasabi and dipped in soy sauce.
• Soba & Udon Noodles: Soba noodles are made from buckwheat flour; udon noodles are a thick white wheat noodle. Both can be eaten plain, in soups, or in combination with other foods.
• Shabu-Shabu & Sukiyaki: The latter is among Japan’s best-known beef dishes; it is often stir-fried at the table. Shabu-shabu is also prepared at your table and consists of thinly sliced beef cooked in a broth with vegetables in a kind of fondue.
• Tempura: This well-known Japanese food is fish and vegetables coated in a batter of egg, water, and wheat flour, and then deep-fried.
• Teppanyaki: A teppanyaki restaurant is a Japanese steakhouse. The chef cooks your steak and vegetables on a smooth hot grill right in front of you.
Meals in China Chinese food is one of the world’s great cuisines, and part of the joy of traveling to China is a chance to sample the diversity of real Chinese food. Each region has its own specialties and style, often taking advantage on local produce. (For example, in the wheat-growing North, noodles and steamed bread are more common than rice, which is grown in the South.)
• Most days, our breakfasts are western-style affairs that include coffee, eggs, toast, etc. But on some days a simple Chinese-style breakfast will be served instead.
30 JKO2018 06/28/2018 • Lunch and dinner usually comprise of regional specialties served in local restaurants and hotel dining rooms. Since there can be up to 13 dishes in a given sitting—some meat, some vegetarian—there is usually something to please every palate! Most of our travelers find the food very good and quite different from the Chinese food they are used to at home.
• During included meals, included beverages are local soft drinks, beer, and bottled water. Coca-Cola or other soft drinks cost approximately $1.50. When eating on your own, western-style meals will cost about $20, and Chinese-style meals will be less. Sweets are uncommon in China, where dessert is usually fruit. But chocolate, cookies, and candies are available at all hotels, airports, and Friendship Stores.
• It is extremely common in China for meals to be served family-style—large platters are brought out to the table, and placed on a central Lazy Susan. Each person then helps themselves from the platter, putting what they want on their individual plate. This means that when dining on your own, you may be ordering dishes for the table, not individual a la carte meals. (You’ll know by the presence of a large Lazy Susan in the middle of the table.) Because dining out is typically done with family or friends, the restaurant many not automatically provide serving utensils; if you want some, just ask.
• And on the subject of utensils—you may want to practice your chopstick skills before you arrive. Most restaurants can provide western utensils on request, and even small local places will have Chinese-style spoons (broad “scoopers” used for soup with dumplings). But chopsticks are the norm, and may be the only utensils provided when visiting a family home.
Lastly, please keep in mind that due to cultural differences,special meal requests are not guaranteed in China. If you have a special meal request, we will do everything possible to assist, but standards in China are not the same as in the U.S. See the Health chapter for more details.
Shopping There may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. O.A.T. is not responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.
Returns If you discover an issue with an item, you should contact the vendor directly and expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. We recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Keep in mind, local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up or that you are guaranteed a refund.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 31 Crafts & Souvenirs
South Korea From department stores and high-end boutiques to more traditional markets, there are many shopping opportunities in South Korea. In Seoul, the main shopping area is in the city center, featuring two department stores and malls in addition to the popular Myeong-dong and Namdaemun markets.
• Crafts: Traditional crafts in Korea include products made from bamboo, pottery, lacquerware furniture, wooden masks, macrame, and embroidery.
• Brush painting: You will find a variety of brush paintings and calligraphy, as well as supplies in Korea. Brushes come in all different sizes and you will find a colorful array of inks. You may also find traditional paper of various textures at specialty shops.
• Fashion: Try on a hanbok, the traditional Korean garment or some beautiful hair pins, brooches, and other accessories. You may also find great deals on leather items, including coats, belts, gloves, shoes, and wallets.
• Jade: Jade, a symbol of purity in Korea, is made into statues as well as many different types of jewelry, including necklaces, bracelets, and hair pins.
• Food: You will find lots of interesting and healthy packaged snacks and treats that can make great gifts for friends and family at home. Some items to look for include tteok (a Korean rice cake), soonja cookies (also called ‘well-being” cookies), and rice wine, such as soju or makkolli. And while you might not be able to bring it home, don’t forget to try kimch’i!
Japan Souvenirs are a Japanese staple and are sold everywhere, even near shrines. In Kamakura, the main shopping street is Komachi Street, where locals and visitors alike can be found shopping. When you visit Arashiyama, keep an eye out for goods made from Japanese fabric. Also, each city we visit offers many places and shops where you can find nice souvenir items.
• Department Stores: Japanese department stores are famous the world over, and with good reason. They are like mini-cities and contain just about everything produced in Japan, from food courts to departments selling such items as cameras and computers. They also sell many traditional Japanese crafts. And the service is outstanding with attentive clerks and beautiful gift-wrapping.
• Crafts: The Japanese highly value traditional crafts and produce some wonderful goods. Japanese artisans are skilled at traditional crafts such as ceramics, lacquerware, and basket making, and produce world-famous fine knives and cutlery.
• Regional Traditions: These destinations are well known for their products: Mikimoto pearl in Toba; fabric, embroidery and incense in Kyoto. You will find Japanese paper products and Japanese pastry with elaborate work throughout Japan.
32 JKO2018 06/28/2018 • Antiques: There are some excellent flea markets and open-air antique dealers in Tokyo and Kyoto.
• Electronics: Digital cameras, laser discs, CD players, calculators, and hand-held computers are ubiquitous in Japan with good bargains common. In Tokyo you’ll want to visit Akihabara, a huge electrical appliance district with open-front shops selling every possible electronic gadget. Shoppers mob this district, so be prepared for crowds.
• Porcelain, Pottery: Japan is a big producer of high-quality pottery and porcelain items. All of the big department stores carry superb pottery such as the Satsuma Arima, Hagi, Bizen and Tobe pottery. Other famous ceramic companies are Kutani in Kanazawa and Kiyomizu in Kyoto.
China Throughout China, you’ll discover wonderful buys on a variety of gifts like chopsticks, signature seals (which are known as “chops”), cloisonné, Mao hats, and silk scarves. These goods—and much, much more—are available at local stores. You can pay with local currency or credit cards. Occasionally shops will take U.S. currency or traveler’s checks, but this is becoming more and more rare.
One thing to note about shopping in China is that bargaining is allowed (even expected) at open-air booths/street vendors, but at these types of businesses you must pay with cash only. Beware of counterfeit RMB given by street vendors as change—pay in exact change whenever possible, and you’ll avoid being cheated.
U.S. Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.
The top three points to know are:
• At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees.
• Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S. Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to- door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need to arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties.
• It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 33 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY
South Korea
Facts & Figures • Area: 38,502 square miles
• Capital: Seoul
• Languages: Korean
• Ethnicity: Homogeneous Korean (except for about 20,000 Chinese)
• Location: The southern half of the Korean Peninsula bordering the Sea of Japan, Yellow Sea, and North Korea by land.
• Geography: South Korea is composed mainly of hills and mountainous terrain, its highest point being approximately 6,400 feet above sea level, with wide coastal plains in the west and south.
• Population: 49,115,196 (estimate)
• Religion: Christian 31.6%, Buddhist 24.2%, other or unknown 0.9%, none 43.3%
• Time Zone: South Korea is on Korean Standard Time, 14 hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 8pm in Seoul.
National Holidays: South Korea
In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/01 Labor Day South Korea celebrates a number of national 05/05 Children’s Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Seollal. To find out if you will be 06/06 Memorial Day traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 08/15 Liberation Day
01/01 New Year’s Day 10/03 National Foundation Day
03/01 Independence Movement Day 10/09 Hangeul Proclamation Day
12/25 Christmas Day
Historical Overview of South Korea The early history of Korea is shrouded in legend. This is partly because there are very few written records (and the ones that do survive are almost all by Chinese historians) and partly because the legend is such a good one—that a mythical, almost heavenly, king named Dangun established the country in 2333 BC. In reality, there is little evidence that King
34 JKO2018 06/28/2018 Dangun actually existed, but like Britain’s King Arthur, he is a well-loved national symbol and frequently referenced in popular culture. It is more likely that Korea was first populated during the late Stone Age as the earliest pottery fragments that have been found date back to about 8,000 BC.
The Three Kingdoms
As the Iron Age began (roughly 400 BC) the agricultural communities on the Korean Peninsula began banding together as loosely-organized states. In time, these states formed federations that became known as the Three Kingdoms: Goguryeo (founded in 37 BC), Baekje (18 BC), and Silla (57 BC). Each of these kingdoms left their mark on Korean history. For example, Goguryeo was the first to adopt Buddhism as a state religion. Baekje brought close cultural ties with China and naval prowess, but their power and territory drew the attention of China’s Tang Dynasty, who attacked in 660 AD. It was up to the last kingdom, Silla, to drive out the Chinese, which they did in 676.
After the war with the Tang, Silla remained the dominant power in southern Korea. In the north, a former Goguryeo general took over the old territory. Because of this north-south division, some historians call this time “the North and South States Period”. And even today, South Korea tends to identify with Silla while North Korea tends to reference Goguryeo.
Goryeo Dynasty Unification
It wasn’t until 200 years later—in 918—that the two states were united under a single ruler, the charismatic Taejo Wang Geon (whose name sometimes appears in English as Wang Kon). Born to a prosperous merchant family in Goguryeo, he took advantage of internal fighting in Silla to seize power and found his own dynasty. The new kingdom was known as Goryeo—which is the origin of the word “Korea”—and had more or less the same boundaries as present-day North and South Korea combined. For these reasons, the Goryeo dynasty is usually seen as the start of modern Korea.
Once in power, Taejo Wang Geon set about reconciling the two former rival states with leniency and tact. Instead of punishing the defeated Silla, he sought alliances with the local clans, allowed the Silla nobles to keep their place in society, and even married a Silla princess to ensure their royal line did not die out. This policy of reconciliation through diplomatic measures—plus his work in codifying laws and promoting Buddhism—gave his dynasty a stable foundation that would last four centuries.
Middle Ages and Mongols
In the early 1300s, Korean society was mostly stable, prosperous, and orderly. Citizens had a place in the social order based on rank, with the aristocratic elite at the top, the military and scholarly classes in the middle, and peasantry (mostly farmers) as the lower class. At the bottom were slaves and the cheonmin (an outcast group of butchers, tanners, and entertainers). Culturally, the country drew inspiration from China. There was a great deal of trade between the two nations, and while Buddhism was the official religion in Korea, Chinese-style Confucianism was also practiced and respected.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 35 All this changed with the rise of the Mongol hoards. In the early 1200s Kublai Khan’s armies swept through China, and by 1231 they had reached Korea, which was prized because of its maritime experience. (The Mongols were mainly horsemen, so for them a navy was novel and highly desirable.) For roughly 100 years Korea was either fighting the Mongols or serving them as a dependent state. In 1274 and 1281 the Mongols tried to use Korean ships and sailors to invade Japan, but both times were turned away by high winds.
While the Mongols didn’t succeed in invading Japan, they did create internal struggles within Korea that only became worse when the Mongol Empire itself was overthrown in 1316. This paved the way for General Yi Seong-gye to overthrow the Goryeo rulers and found his own dynasty, the Joseon.
The Joseon Dynasty
In contrast to their Buddhist predecessors, the Joseon preferred Confucianism, so their rule brought about many religious, social, and administrative changes. The most notable of which were the exile of Buddhist monks into the mountains, the rise of education and civic exams as a way to advance in society, and less independence for women. (Under the old state, they could inherit property and were afforded more freedom outside the home.)
Much of what is considered traditional culture in Korea today hails from the Joseon period, which lasted centuries. The dynasty’s main challenges were internal conflicts at court and foreign relations, especially with Japan, which tried unsuccessfully to invade in 1592 and again 1598; the Manchus, who made Korea a vassal state in 1636; and the U.S., who tried to force trade relations in the 1870s.
Rule by Japan
By the end of the 1880s Korean society was divided between those who embraced the traditional culture and those who wanted to reform it by modernizing and leveling class differences. The Gapsin Coup in 1884 was meant to drive reform, but instead created an opportunity for foreign powers like Japan, China, and Russia to insert themselves in Korean politics, effectively creating an international rivalry over Korea. Tension mounted when two of the rivals—Japan and Russia—went to war in 1904. After Japan won, Korea fell into their sphere of influence and was formally annexed by Japan in 1910.
Japanese rule in Korea lasted until 1945. Although relatively short in the span of history, it left a deep impression on the nation’s psyche. Even today, Japan and South Korea have a sort of love/hate relationship that stems from this time, which many Korean patriots felt was an insult to their national sovereignty and independence. While there were benefits—the Japanese did a lot to modernize the country—there were also shameful humiliations like the so-called “comfort women”, Korean girls forced to act as prostitutes for Japanese soldiers during World War II.
The Korean War and Aftermath
36 JKO2018 06/28/2018 After World War II Korea was in a difficult position. As subjects of Japan, the Koreans had been forced to take part in the war on the Japanese side even though they were badly treated by the Japanese themselves. To complicate matters further, Russian troops occupied the north of the country above the 38th parallel, while American troops held the south, and neither wanted to give up their position.
Different solutions were proposed, but ultimately Russia and the U.S. wanted different people to lead the new Korea (Russia picked Kim Il-sung; the U.S. wanted Rhee Syngman). When each man formed provisional governments in “their” half of Korea, it effectively split the country. Each side claimed they were the legitimate government, and each claimed the right to rule the entire peninsula. Tensions mounted from 1948 to 1950, during which time there were conflicts along the border. The United Nations tried to intervene, but to no avail. In 1950 war broke out between the communist north and the U.S.-backed south. Three years later neither side had won control of all of Korea, but the destruction and loss of three million lives convinced both parties to agree to a compromise—the division of the peninsula into two separate countries, today’s North Korea and South Korea.
After the division, South Korea’s history fell into a pattern of political instability. A series of republics, military coups, marital law, and corruption charges plagued South Korean politics through the 1990s. However, recent years have seen more political stability and a focus on renewing the national economy.
Japan
Facts & Figures • Area: 145,913 square miles
• Capital: Tokyo
• Languages: Japanese is the official language of Japan.
• Ethnicity: Japanese 98.5%, Koreans 0.5%, Chinese 0.4%, other 0.6%
• Location: An archipelago extending in an arc more than 1,744 miles from northeast to southwest in the Pacific Ocean, Japan is separated from the east coast of Asia by the Sea of Japan.
• Geography: The Sea of Japan separates Japan from the east coast of Asia. Japan consists of four major islands: Honshu, Hokkaido, Kyushu, and Shikoku. The Kurils to the northeast of the main islands are now occupied by Russia and subject to dispute. About 60% of Japan is mountain terrain, and the country is blessed with beautiful and varied landscape as well as lush greenery.
• Population: 126,451,398 (July 2017 estimate)
• Religion: Observe both Shinto and Buddhist 84%, other 16% (including Christian 0.7%)
06/28/2018 JKO2018 37 • Time Zone: Japan is on Japan Standard Time, 14 hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 8pm in Tokyo.
National Holidays: Japan
In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/03 Constitution Memorial Day Japan celebrates a number of national 05/04 Greenery Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar. To find out if you will be traveling during these 05/05 Children’s Day holidays, please visit www.timeanddate. com/holidays. 11/03 Culture Day
01/01 New Year’s Day 11/23 Labor Thanksgiving Day
02/11 National Foundation Day 12/23 Emperor’s Birthday
04/29 Showa Day 12/25 Christmas
Historical Overview of Japan Early History
Japan today is one of the world’s most modern countries, but it retains parts of its ancient past in its customs and daily living habits. The natural drive and restlessness of the Japanese people manifested itself early on. Japan’s recorded history begins in AD 400 with one group, the Yamato clan, controlling much of the central and western lands in the country. The Yamato clan conquered its rivals and also introduced the concept of an imperial court similar to China’s court. Buddhism was introduced to Japan by way of neighboring Korea at about this time. Much of the country’s early history prior to the Tokugawa period, which began in 1603, is a story of harsh warlords, each controlling his own small area and fighting frequently with neighbors or intruders.
Foreign Influence
Japan, like many of its Asian neighbors, was changed by the waves of foreigners who came seeking trade and riches. Before the Meiji period (1868-1912), Japan was a closed and secretive society with the warlords struggling with each other. Foreign influences came first from China and Korea and then from Western nations.
In 1543, Portuguese ships brought traders and missionaries to Japan, with Spanish, Dutch, and English traders soon following. The Tokugawa were a particularly successful family of warlords or shoguns who managed to take control over most of the country in the early 17th century. They became distrustful of the foreigners and banned Christianity and for the next 250 years (1603-1867). Tokugawa shoguns sealed off Japan from all outsiders. Only the Dutch were allowed to trade at the port of Nagasaki. During this period of isolation the shoguns controlled the country and divided the people into four classes: samurai (warriors), farmers,
38 JKO2018 06/28/2018 craftsmen, and merchants. A rigid system dictated how each class dressed, lived, and worked. The samurai were at the top of this class structure and were both feared and fearsome. The merchants were at the bottom and soon resented their status.
In 1853, Commodore Matthew Perry sailed an American fleet into Tokyo Bay and forced the Japanese to open the country to trade. From that point, the country quickly developed into a modern power with a large imperial army.
Modern History
The Japanese through the ages have adopted the western influences that suited them and discarded the rest. The result has led to an interesting mix of modernity and tradition in Japan. The modern Japanese Constitution is modeled after the American Constitution. The emperor is a symbolic head of state only. Their education system is similar to many European systems.
Throughout the latter part of the 19th century and into the early 20th century, Japan was often at war with its neighbors China and Russia over territorial claims. A militaristic society dominated Japanese life. In 1931, Japan invaded Manchuria and followed this with an invasion of China in 1936. On December 7, 1941, Japan launched a sneak attack on American forces at Pearl Harbor and initiated a war with the United States. By 1942, Japanese military successes in the Pacific were waning. Forced to retreat island by island back to Japan, the Japanese military finally surrendered after the United States dropped atomic bombs on the cities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki and the Soviet Union declared war on Japan in 1945.
After a post-World War II occupation under United States General Douglas MacArthur, Japan regained full sovereignty in 1952. In 1972, the United States returned the Ryuku Islands, including Okinawa, to Japan thus restoring Japan to its original boundaries. Japan became one of the world’s great economic powers in the 1970s, dominating worldwide banking and industry, and having great success in the automotive business. Japan became the world’s second-largest economy after the United States.
Japan was criticized in 1991 for its failure to join the international coalition that fought in the Persian Gulf War. Its economy also took a downturn at this time. Throughout the 1990s Japan was plagued by banking and industrial scandals and had a succession of governments, explaining why some have nicknamed this the “lost decade”. Today, Japan remains a strong country, but its economy has not regained the luster of past decades.
Recent History
If the 1990s were the “lost decade”, then the early 2000s may well prove to be the “decade of scandals”. In 2002, North Korea’s President Kim Jong-Il shocked the world by admitting to the kidnappings of at least 13 Japanese citizens by North Korean agents during the 1970s and 1980s. The admission was part of a move towards normalizing political relations between the two countries. Eventually some of the victims were allowed to return to Japan, but not all.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 39 Other newsworthy scandals centered on Japanese history, as in a 2007 refusal by the Japanese Prime Minister to acknowledge the military’s use of “comfort women” in World War II. Still other were part of the political machine, like the landslide victory of the Democratic Party in the 2009 elections—for Parliament this was an abrupt change from the Liberal Democratic Party that had been in power for nearly 50 years. The same year, Yukio Hatoyama was named the new Prime Minister, but was forced to step down less than a year into office. Naoto Kan replaced him as Prime Minister in June of 2010.
Despite the changes to the ruling party and party leadership, the political controversies continued unabated. In particular, the last few years have seen a strong public debate about the continued presence of the U.S. military at the Futenma base in Okinawa. An earlier agreement stated the base would be moved to a less-populated part of Okinawa Island, and the number of Marines stationed at the base would be reduced. But public opinion has been divided about moving the base (one proposed site raised environmental concerns), and many are for removing the base from the island completely. Currently the base has not been relocated, but plans are underway to reduce the number of Marines.
Sadly, more sober events were soon to take the spotlight away from a decade of political scandals. On March 11th, 2011, the Pacific Coast of Japan was hit by a large offshore earthquake, which in turn triggered a tsunami. Although powerful, the damage from the initial earthquake was minor compared to the damage caused by the tsunami, which reached heights of 133 feet and flooded inland as far as six miles. The northern prefectures of Miyagi, Iwate, and Fukushima were particularly hard-hit, which put the nuclear power plants Fukushima Daiichi and Fukushima Daini at risk. By deliberately venting some radioactive isotopes from the Daiichi plant, the authorities averted a meltdown, but the emergency measure still raises concerns about the impact to the region immediately surrounding the plant. (This is why an area surrounding the plant was declared off-limits to anyone but authorized personnel.)
In the wake of the earthquake/tsunami, support and donations were offered from all over the world, under the slogan “Pray for Japan”. Inside Japan, many citizens felt the government leadership had not handled the crisis well and criticized the rebuild effort as too slow. As a result Prime Minister Naoto Kan stepped down in 2011; he was succeeded by Yoshihiko Noda, who in turn was defeated by Shinzo Abe. In 2016, Emperor Akihito surprised his subjects by announcing he was ready to step down from the Chrysanthemum Throne; his abdication will go into effect on April 30, 2019.
China
Facts & Figures • Area: 3,705,407 square miles
• Capital: Beijing
• Languages: Standard Chinese (Mandarin) is the official language; Yue (Cantonese), Wu (Shanghaiese), Minbei (Fuzhou), Minnan (Hokkien-Taiwanese) are also spoken, along with various Chinese dialects
40 JKO2018 06/28/2018 • Ethnicity: Han Chinese 91.6%, Zhuang 1.3%, other (includes Hui, Manchu, Uighur, Miao, Yi, Tujia, Tibetan, Mongol, Dong, Buyei, Yao, Bai, Korean, Hani, Li, Kazakh, Dai and other nationalities) 7.1%
• Location: China is bordered by Afghanistan, Bhutan, Burma, India, Kazakhstan, North Korea, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Mongolia, Nepal, Pakistan, Russia, Tajikistan, and Vietnam.
• Geography: The geography of China must be viewed in terms of its grand proportions. China’s vast area of nearly 4 million square miles ranks third behind Russia and Canada. The Himalayas on China’s border with India are the world’s tallest mountains. More than two-thirds of China’s land area is mountainous or desert.
• Population: 1,367,485,388 (estimate)
• Religions: Buddhist 18.2%, Christian 5.1%, Muslim 1.8%, folk religion 21.9%, Hindu < .1%, Jewish < .1%, other 0.7% (includes Daoist), unaffiliated 52.2%
• Time Zone: Officially all of China is on Beijing time, which is 12 hours ahead of EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 6pm in China (add an hour for daylight saving time). Unofficially, residents in distant provinces may use a local time zone for everyday use and Beijing time for official purposes. Hong Kong is also on Beijing time.
National Holidays: China
In addition to the holidays listed below, holidays, please visit www.timeanddate. China celebrates a number of national com/holidays. holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such 01/01 New Year’s Day as the Chinese New Year, Spring Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival, and more. To find 05/01 Labor Day out if you will be traveling during these 10/01 National Day
Historical Overview Early History
Archaeological records of a highly developed civilization in the area now known as China date back to around 4000 B.C., suggesting that the Chinese people have shared a common culture longer than any other people on earth. China’s first dynasty, the Shang, is believed to have been established around 1800 B.C. At that time, the country remained split into many feudal states. Although the King was recognized for his ritual role, power was dispersed among feudal lords, and warring between feudal states was common.
The Shang kings called themselves the “Sons of Heaven” and presided over a cult of animal and human sacrifices to ancestors and nature gods. Ancient writings tell of frequent invasions by nomads from the north, often referred to as “barbarians” (meaning anyone not of Chinese descent). However, the nomads always moved on after their conquests, and the dynastic rulers remained in power.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 41 By 1500 B.C., the Chinese had already made great advancements in the areas of science and mathematics. They also were producing fine art, including jade and ceramic products and bronze castings. However, the majority of the Chinese people still made their living from a combination of hunting and agriculture. The peasants owned the land on which they farmed, but owed military service to the nobles. As in all agricultural societies, the family was the dominant social unit. Often, large extended families lived together under one roof, and groups of families living in the same geographical area sometimes adopted common surnames and formed clans.
The Classical Age
Around 400 B.C., a new class of learned men began to form, giving rise to what is sometimes called the Classic Age of Chinese thought. The most famous of these men was Confucius. Confucius asserted that social harmony depends on each individual understanding and acting in accordance with his or her station in life. His teachings would have a greater influence on China’s development over the next 2,000 years than perhaps any other man, as Confucianism was the official state teaching from 202 B.C. to A.D. 1911. This strict ethical system, more than anything else, provided the basis for the long-standing unity of the Chinese people and the relative stability of the dynastic system of government for nearly 40 centuries.
Another philosophy also rose to prominence in China around this time. Taoism promoted the concepts of inner peace and harmony with nature. Practitioners sought mystical knowledge through meditation. While Taoism never became an official state teaching, it was embraced by millions of Chinese as an alternative to the rigid precepts of Confucianism.
Around the 1st century B.C., Buddhism, which originated in India, found its way to China. Whereas Confucianism and Taoism were more or less ethical guides, Buddhism was a proper religion. To the follower of Buddha, life goes on in a series of reincarnations; it is a cycle of rebirth and suffering. The goal of life is to escape this cycle—to stop being born as a suffering individual with selfish desires. To do this, Buddhists follow what is called the “Eightfold Path”–a series of steps that lead to the blissful state of Nirvana. While Buddhism was not advanced as an official state teaching, it nevertheless flourished in China for centuries.
The Age of the Imperial Dynasties
In 221 B.C., China’s first empire was established. Called Qin, it differed from past dynasties in that one emperor ruled over a unified China. The first emperor, Qin Shi Huang Di, centralized political power and standardized language, laws, weights, measures, and coinage. Unfortunately, he also suppressed learning and tried to destroy most religious texts. His dynasty lasted less than 20 years. Although specific Imperial dynasties came in and out of power, the structure of the Imperial dynastic system, with its administrative divisions and central bureaucracies, remained intact until the early part of the 20th century.
In 202 B.C., the Han rose to power. The next four centuries of Han rule were a time of great historical significance to the Chinese. The Han instituted the Mandarin Bureaucracy, a merit system by which local officials were selected based on their knowledge of the Confucian classics. They also advanced the teachings of Confucianism, with its strict adherence to the
42 JKO2018 06/28/2018 class system. Both of these measures remained in force for nearly 2,000 years. Also during this time, China’s first university was founded. A new emphasis on learning and education gave rise to an age of great scientific discovery and artistic accomplishment.
Over the next several centuries, life in China continued much as it had during the age of the Han. New dynasties rose to power, but the Imperial dynastic system, with its central bureaucracy and administrative divisions, remained intact. More importantly, foreign influences did not significantly alter the underlying culture. The people remained largely agricultural, and Buddhism, Confucianism, and Taoism remained the prevailing philosophical and ethical guides. However, a significant change occurred in the late 14th century, during the reign of the Mings. Trade with the west was introduced. At first, open trade with the west appeared to pose little threat to the Chinese way of life. But, over the next 300 years, a new commodity was introduced that would prove disastrous to Chinese culture: opium. By the late 19th century, opium addiction had severely damaged Chinese society and drained vast amounts of wealth overseas. This led to war with Britain, a chief source of the deadly drug. The Chinese, who had failed to keep pace with western arms technology, were soundly defeated and forced into a series of uneven treaties.
The Rise of the People’s Republic
By the dawn of the 20th century, China was wracked with internal rebellion and economic stagnation. A Western-influenced political leader named Sun Yet-sen convinced the Chinese to adopt a republican form of government in 1911, touching off a prolonged period of civil war. Then, in 1949, bolstered by the success of Russia following World War II, Communists rose to power and took control of the government, establishing the People’s Republic of China. The first 30 years of rule by the Communist Party were marked by cycles of failed economic policies, disunity, and political purges. In particular the 1960s and early 1970s saw a period of economic, political, and social change known as the Cultural Revolution.
Begun in 1966, the Cultural Revolution was described by Mao Zedong (the Chairman of the Communist Party) as a movement to counteract “liberal bourgeoisie” elements that wanted to return to capitalism. Through speeches and other propaganda, the Party leadership affiliated certain Chinese traditions with Western decadence; both were to be condemned and purged.
Two key elements of the Cultural Revolution that would affect China for years were the mass relocation of urban population to rural labor camps and the creation of the Red Guards. Most were students who were encouraged to actively challenge cultural institutions, their teachers, and even their parents. The term “the Four Olds” (old customs, old culture, old habits, and old ideas) was introduced to sum up everything that a good revolutionary should avoid. Religious buildings were defaced, art smashed, intellectuals and teachers abused and imprisoned. Although the Cultural Revolution officially ended in 1969, most historians agree it continued until Mao’s death in 1976.
After Mao’s passing the backlash from the Cultural Revolution lead to the arrest of four influential Party leaders, called the Gang of Four (one of whom was Mao’s widow). The public began to turn away from the hard-line communism that had dominated China, and in the mid-1980s, the government adopted far-reaching economic reforms with market-oriented
06/28/2018 JKO2018 43 incentives. Throughout the 1980s and 1990s reforms were slowly introduced, and in 2003, the Party even changed its membership rules to include a new type of member, known as “red capitalists”. Nonetheless, modern China is still far from being an openly democratic or capitalist society; today they name their new political system “socialism with Chinese characteristics.”
44 JKO2018 06/28/2018 RESOURCES
Suggested Readings
South Korea This Kind of War: The Classic Korean War History by T.R. Fehrenbach (History) A comprehensive history of the Korean War written by an officer who witnessed the conflict firsthand.
Please Look After Mom by Kyung-sook Shin (Literature) A Korean bestseller that gives a contemporary view of Korean life. This story is about a family’s search for their mother who goes missing one afternoon in Seoul.
When My Name Was Keoko by Linda Sue Park (Literature) A compelling story about a brother and sister living in Korea and struggling to maintain their identities during the Japanese occupation leading up to World War II.
Daughters of the Dragon: A Comfort Woman’s Story by William Andrews (Historical Fiction) This is a powerful story about a young Korean woman who is torn from her family at a young age and forced to become a comfort woman for Japanese soldiers during World War II. While this is an elegantly written novel, the story is based on a disturbing part of Korean history that some readers may find distressful.
Japan Unbroken: A World War II Story of Survival, Resilience, and Redemption by Laura Hillenbrand (Biography/History) In a true story so unlikely that it reads like fiction, Unbroken follows a U.S. airman as he tries to survive after his bomber is shot down over the Pacific Ocean in 1943.
A Geek in Japan by Hector Garcia (Culture) A breezy, light overview of Japanese pop culture trends such as manga (comic books), anime (animated films), and harajuku (colorful street fashion).
A Traveller’s History of Japan by Richard Tames (History) A concise narrative history of Japan. (And yes, the title has two “L”s; the series is British).
Dave Barry Does Japan by Dave Barry (Humor) Humorous and sometimes outrageous observations about Japanese culture by the famous columnist.
Embracing Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World War II by John W. Dower (History) Vividly portrays the years of military occupation after Japan’s defeat, and the American influence affected every level of Japanese society.
Flags of Our Fathers by James Bradley (History) The personal story of the six soldiers who raised the flag at Iwo Jima, as told by the son of one of the six.
Geisha, A Life by Mineko Iwasaki (Memoir) The memoir of a celebrated geisha, rich in details, culture and the traditions of Kyoto’s Gion Kobu district. Iwasaki, was also the chief source of information for Arthur Golden’s best-selling novel, Memoirs of a Geisha.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 45 Hiroshima by John Hersey (History) The true story of six people who lived through the explosion of the atomic bomb over Hiroshima in 1945. Originally published in 1946, the more recent editions have extra information, describing what happened later to each of the six survivors.
Introduction to Japanese Culture edited by Daniel Sosnoski (Culture) Offers lots of background information on Japanese society. Some topics covered include: the tea ceremony, geisha, sumo, Buddhism, and Kabuki.
Memoirs of a Geisha by Arthur Golden (Literature) The runaway bestseller about Sayuri, a formidable geisha, and her life in the celebrated Gion district of Kyoto in the years before World War II.
Rashomon Gate by I. J. Parker and Shinju by Laura Joh Rowland (Mysteries) Parker writes the popular Sugawara Akitada series, set in eleventh-century Japan. Rowland’s series of page- turners are set in 17th century Japan, and feature samurai Sano Ichiro as the detective. There are multiple books in each series—the titles we suggest here are good starting places.
The Book of Tea by Kakuzo Okakura (Culture) A charming meditation on Japanese aesthetics and culture as reflected through the tea ceremony. Originally published in 1906, this book has continued to be popular—new editions were published in 2008 and 2010.
The Inland Sea by Donald Richie (Travel Narrative) Considered one of the masterpieces of travel writing. Richie’s book, on its surface a travel account, is a beautiful reflection on all things Japanese by one of the country’s most acute observers.
Thousand Cranes by Yasunari Kawabata (Literature) A deceptively powerful tale by one of Japan’s great post-war novelists told in spare, delicate style.
Japanese Garden Design by Marc Peter Keane (Non-Fiction) Learn about the art of Japanese gardening from a landscape architect and garden designer working in Japan. In this book you will discover the concepts and symbolism behind various designs and garden elements and how they relate to Japanese culture.
Sadako and the Thousand Paper Cranes by Eleanor Coerr (Literature) This is a story of hope and perseverance following a young girl who develops leukemia after the bombing of Hiroshima. In this touching tale, she begins to make paper cranes to pass the hours in the hospital but ends up in a race against time to finish making 1000 of the beautiful origami cranes.
Kyoto: Seven Paths to the Heart of the City by Diane Durston (Culture) Learn about the history of Kyoto and some of the most popular districts in the city, including detailed maps and beautiful photography.
Black Rain by Masuji Ibuse (Fiction) Yasuko’s world is forever changed when she is caught in the “black rain”—the radioactive waste that fell after the bombing of Hiroshima. An emotional and sad story, but a powerful one that was recommended by former travelers.
46 JKO2018 06/28/2018 China Riding the Iron Rooster by Paul Theroux (Travel Narrative) Acclaimed travel writer Paul Theroux’s vivid account of his journey through China by rail.
The Good Earth by Pearl Buck (Literature) A modern classic that won the Pulitzer Prize in 1931. Drawing heavily on her personal experience as a young newlywed in rural China, it is the plainly told story of a poor farmer and his stalwart wife. The book captures the daily life of China’s poorest people.
The Great Wall, China Against the World, 1000 BC - 2000 AD by Julia Lovell (History) Everything you ever wanted to know about the Great Wall. And if you are interested in images of the Wall, consider The Great Wall, From Beginning to End by Michael Yamashita and William Lindesay (History/Photography) Lindesay’s informative text accompanies 160 photographs by Yamashita, who spent a year photographing along the 4,000-mile expanse for National Geographic.
The River at the Center of the World by Simon Winchester (Travel Narrative) In this wide-ranging overview of the Yangtze veteran journalist Simon Winchester travels upstream into the heartland of China. An excellent introduction to the great river that is at the symbolic and literal heart of China.
Before the Deluge, The Vanishing World of the Yangtze’s Three Gorges by Deirdre Chetham (Culture) Chetham offers a detailed glimpse into the daily life along the river, its spectacular natural beauty and checkered history. She also considers the efforts to tame the river, culminating with the massive Three Gorges dam. Although the book was written before the dam was completed, it is still considered one of the better books on the subject.
China Road by Rob Gifford (Travel Narrative) On the road from Shanghai west to the Gobi and China’s distant border with Kazakhstan, Gifford writes with warmth and affection of his many encounters along fabled Route 312 with fellow travelers, truckers, and ordinary folk.
Daughter of China: A True Story of Love and Betrayal by Meihong Xu and Larry Engelmann (Biography). The true account of a Chinese woman trained as an elite member of the PLA, denounced as a spy by the Communist government for her love of an American professor.
Death of a Red Heroine by Qui Xiaolong (Mystery) Marvelously evocative of Shanghai and China’s transition towards a market economy in the 1990’s, this award-winning debut of Inspector Chen of the Shanghai police is also a real page-turner.
Empress Orchid by Anchee Min (Fiction) A novel of the glorious, decadent last days of 19th- Century Imperial China. Min combines her tale of a young girl from the provinces who marries an emperor with a lovingly re-created portrait of life in the Forbidden City. Pearl Buck told a much more romanticized tale of the same remarkable woman in Imperial Woman.
Mao Zedong by Jonathan Spence (Biography) A masterful short biography in the “Penguin Lives” series, this text by Chinese historian Jonathan Spence tracks the life of the enigmatic Chinese ruler from his provincial upbringing to his powerful reign.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 47 The Haunted Monastery by Robert Van Gulik (Mystery) One of a series of historical mysteries, featuring a Tang-era Chinese magistrate that are taken from the tradition of Chinese suspense novels. Apart from the pleasure of the elaborate plots, the books are rich in details of court and daily life in ancient China.
Wild Swans, Three Daughters of China by Jung Chang (Biography) A riveting tale of three generations spanning the end of Old China, Mao’s regime and the Japanese occupation. Chang chronicles the enormous changes in China since 1929 through her family’s story, which includes arrest during the Cultural Revolution, exile to the Sichuan wilderness and coming to terms with the bewildering state of China today.
China in Ten Words by Yu Hua (Culture) Ten essays on wide-ranging aspects of Chinese culture, such as economics, history, and politics, each summed up by one word or phrase like “leader” or “revolution”.
Postcards from Tomorrow Square: Reports from China by James Fallows (Culture) Originally a series of articles for Atlantic Monthly, each chapter can be read as a stand-alone piece or as part of a whole. The same author has also written China Airborne, which focuses on China’s aviation industry as a way of understanding the modernization of China.
Midnight in Peking by Paul French (True Crime) When a pretty Englishwoman is murdered on the eve of war in 1937, will the detectives on the case be able to solve the crime before the Japanese invade? It sounds like a mystery novel, but in fact is a historical case.
Leaving Mother Lake by Yang Erche Namu and Christine Mathieu (Biography/Memoir) In this international bestseller Namu recounts her childhood amoung the Mosuo people, a matriarchal tribe that lives in southwestern China. Recongnized early for her singing ability, Namu left the tribe for the big city and a possible musical career, but not without experienceing homesickness and culture shock—in her own country. An interesting insider’s look at a little- known ethnic minority in China.
How Was China? by Dodie Johnston (Travel Narrative) Looking for a new adventure in retirement, Dodie sets off to China to teach English in a women’s college. In this book, she humorously captures the local culture and tells her story of navigating life in China, as well as the stories of people she’s met along the way.
Suggested Movies
Korea Seoul Train (2004, Documentary) This documentary dives into the lives of North Korean defectors who put their lives on the line to escape their homeland.
The Interview (2014, Comedy) Two hosts of a celebrity tabloid show receive a call from their fan, Kim Jong-un, and hilarity ensues when they are recruited by the CIA to help with an assassination plot on their trip to Korea.
48 JKO2018 06/28/2018 MASH (1970, Comedy) This movie takes place in a Korean War field hospital where the staff uses comedy as a coping mechanism for dealing with the atrocities of the war.
Kimchi Chronicles (TV series, 2011) A PBS program that delves into Korean cuisine and culture in this travelogue series following a Korean-born woman raised in Virginia as she rediscovers her heritage.
The Admiral: Roaring Currents (2014, Adventure) Korea’s highest grossing movie, this film is a historical piece centering on the Battle of Myeongnyang in the 16th century during which a legendary Korean admiral led a small fleet of ships to war against an invading Japanese fleet. This movie is filmed in Korean with English subtitles.
The Last Princess (2016, Foreign) A dramatic period piece about Princess Deokhye (the last princess of Korea’s Joseon dynasty) who was forced to live in Japan against her wishes. A story that echos the love-hate relationship between Korea and Japan.
Japan Abduction: The Megumi Yokota Story (2006, Documentary) An emotionally powerful documentary about Megumi Yokota, a young Japanese girl who disappeared in 1977 and was rumored to have been kidnapped by a North Korean spy. The film centers on her parents, who spent the next 30 years trying to discover what happened to her.
Flags of Our Fathers and Letters from Iwo Jima (2006, Drama) Based on the book by the same name, Flags tells the story of the six soldiers who raised the U.S. flag at Iwo Jima. The companion movie, Letters, depicts the battle for Iwo Jima from the Japanese point of view.
Godzilla (1956, Horror/Monster) The original Japanese monster flick maybe campy and silly, but it spawned a serious business—over 28 sequels and remakes—plus it created a serious icon of Japanese pop culture. Fun fact: Godzilla has his own star on the Hollywood walk of fame.
Jiro Dreams of Sushi (2011, Documentary) A loving documentary about Jiro Ono, the first sushi chief to win the coveted three-star rating from Michelin. A good choice for both foodies and the sushi novice.
Lost in Translation (2003, Drama) Two lost souls—a bored former movie star and the listless wife of a photographer—connect as they wander around Tokyo.
Living Treasures of Japan (2010, Documentary) Meet the traditional artists and craftsmen who have been honored with the title of “Living Treasure” by the Japanese government.
Memoirs of a Geisha (2005, Drama) Movie adaptation of the novel by the same name. A romantic and sweeping story that won Oscars for cinematography, art direction, and costumes.
Seven Samurai (1956, Classic). One of Japan’s most famous movies tells the story of seven heroes hired by farmers to defend their village against bandits. If the plot sounds a bit like a western, you’re not wrong—it was remade in the U.S. as The Magnificent Seven.
06/28/2018 JKO2018 49 Shall We Dance? (1996, Romantic Comedy). A dissatisfied office worker is inspired to take up ballroom dancing by a chance glimpse of a beautiful woman. But what will his wife and coworkers think? An American remake was released in 2004.
Shogun (1980, Period Drama) A popular TV miniseries that was shot entirely in Japan, it follows the drama of an English navigator shipwrecked in feudal Japan.
Departures (2008, Drama) An Academy Award winning Japanese drama follows the story of a failed cellist who takes a job as a mortician.
China Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon (2000, Action) A worldwide sensation, this movie pays tribute to the Kung Fu genre but also updates it for a new audience. The central question of what it means to be faithful is wrapped up in an exciting plot about the theft of a famed sword.
Eat, Drink, Man, Woman (1994, Comedy) A gentle comedy about finding romance and purpose. The plot centers on a famous chief, now retired and widowed, who expresses his love for his three daughters through the elaborate meals that he creates.
Farewell My Concubine (1993, Drama). Two stars of the Peking Opera deal with complex issues ranging from personal to political.
Mulan (1998, Family) Have kids or grandkids who are curious about where you’re going? This Disney animated movie is a great way to introduce them to a classic Chinese legend.
Raise the Red Lantern (1992, Drama) A beautifully shot period piece that follows the tragic intrigues between the four wives of a wealthy business man in 1920s China, as told from the point of view of his youngest wife.
The Good Earth (1937, Romance). An adaptation of the novel by the same name, this is the sweeping story a farming couple struggling with class differences, poverty, and nature. Luise Rainer won an Oscar for her performance as the self-sacrificing O-Lan.
The Inn of the Sixth Happiness (1958, Biography) Based on the life of English missionary Gladys Aylward, Inn follows her struggles to integrate into Chinese society while simultaneously changing that society.
The Last Emperor (1987, Biography) A biopic about the romantic yet sad life of China’s last emperor who was finally dethroned in 1917. Beautiful camera work, gorgeous colors, and full of pageantry.
The Painted Veil (2006, Romance) Love, betrayal, and possible redemption between two missionaries in rural China during the 1930s. Was filmed on location in the area surrounding Guilin.
50 JKO2018 06/28/2018 Useful Websites
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