DOCSLIB.ORG

Young Women, Fashion, and Modernity in Taiwan

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Young Women, Fashion, and Modernity in Taiwan Young Women, Fashion, and Modernity in Taiwan Ming-Chun Hong PhD University of York Women’s Studies January 2013 Abstract Young Taiwanese women are thought to have gained more individuality and agency over the last few decades. With the improvement in women’s rights and the increase in disposable income, young women have been embracing new forms of identity and consumption values. It becomes apparent that, even in the seemingly straightforward act of consuming fashion goods, young women must navigate conflicts between modernity, traditional values and social expectations while constructing the self in negotiation with others. This research sought to study young Taiwanese women’s perceptions of consuming fashion products and to determine whether their accounts conform to prevalent notions of modern women and the development of individuality. I examined how young metropolitan Taiwanese women managed their appearances in order to represent their identities, and how these decisions were subjected to the influence of parents, others and themselves. In the summer of 2009, I conducted semi-structured interviews with 24 metropolitan women between the ages of 19 and 31. These interviews focused on several aspects of fashion consumption, covering the meaning of brands and fashion goods to young women and their relationships with the construction of self-identity and social identity, self-image and public image and femininity. My analysis drew on Goffman’s (1959) approach to impression management and other theories of self-identity. I found that for the women interviewed, the process of dressing themselves demonstrated contradictions between maintaining individuality and conforming to social norms. However, through acting ‘not too over the top’ and through the conscious inclusion of others, young women are able to achieve a balance in managing their appearance. Through reflexively negotiating external surveillance and self-monitoring they constructed a sense of self through their choices of fashion goods the construction of their image. This negotiated self is repeatedly exercised and practised in all private and social spaces. 1 Table of Contents Abstract ............................................................................................................................ 1 Table of Contents ............................................................................................................ 2 Acknowledgements .......................................................................................................... 6 Author’s Declaration ...................................................................................................... 6 Chapter 1 Introduction ................................................................................................... 7 Chapter 2 Taiwanese Fashion Choices in Context: Literature Review ................... 17 2.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................... 17 2.2 The transformation of Taiwanese women in tradition and modernity .............. 19 2.3 The Dressed Body ............................................................................................. 24 2.3.1 The Dressed Body in Feminist debate .................................................... 25 2.3.2 The Dressed Body and the Media in Taiwanese Cultural Contexts....... 28 2.4 Self-presentation and individuality ................................................................... 29 2.5 The self and identities in appearance ................................................................ 33 2.6 Consumer Culture ............................................................................................. 35 2.6.1 Fashion Theory – Consuming Fashion and Brand ................................ 37 2.6.2 Consuming Brands/Symbol .................................................................... 40 2.6.3 Consumption in Taipei/Taiwan .............................................................. 41 Chapter 3 Methodology ................................................................................................ 43 3.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................... 43 3.2 Research Design ................................................................................................ 43 3.3 Pilot Interviews ................................................................................................. 44 3.3.1 Participant Selection and Backgrounds for Pilot Interviews ................. 44 3.3.2 Feedback and adjustment of research questions ................................... 46 3.3.3 Research Questions ................................................................................ 47 3.4 Interviews with Young Women ........................................................................ 48 3.4.1 Participant Selection and Making Appointments ................................... 49 2 3.4.2 Conducting interviews ............................................................................ 54 3.4.3 The Process, and Difficulties with the Interviews .................................. 56 3.5 Data Processing and Writing up ........................................................................ 62 3.6 Summary ........................................................................................................... 64 Chapter 4 Women, Tradition and Modernity ............................................................ 65 4.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................... 65 4.2 The influence of tradition and modernity.......................................................... 66 4.3 The conflicts between parental influence and maintaining individuality ......... 68 4.3.1 The mother’s role ................................................................................... 68 4.3.2 The father’s role ..................................................................................... 77 4.4 Individuality and fashion styles ........................................................................ 81 4.5 Diversity/Variability: I like it so much, but… .................................................. 85 4.6 Summary ........................................................................................................... 93 Chapter 5 The Curse of Being a Beauty – Women’s Conformity and Resistance under Patriarchy ........................................................................................................... 95 5.1. Introduction ...................................................................................................... 95 5.2 Concerns about body/weight ............................................................................. 96 5.3 Ladylike dressing – Wearing skirts/dresses .................................................... 106 5.4 Femininity and respectability .......................................................................... 111 5.5 Facial Make-up................................................................................................ 113 5.6 Summary ......................................................................................................... 121 Chapter 6 Consumption of Fashion Goods ............................................................... 124 6.1 Introduction ..................................................................................................... 124 6.2 The meanings and necessity of fashion products ............................................ 125 6.3 Contradictory attitudes toward brands ............................................................ 129 6.3.1 Brand logos .......................................................................................... 141 6.3.2 Second-hand vs. Counterfeit ................................................................ 143 6.4 Shopping Perceptions - Internet vs. Street Shopping ...................................... 146 6.5 I am a Clever Consumer .................................................................................. 153 3 6.6 Summary ......................................................................................................... 157 Chapter 7 Fashioning Identities ................................................................................. 159 7.1 Introduction ..................................................................................................... 159 7.2 Great minds think alike ................................................................................... 160 7.3 Zhuangshan/Zhuangbau .................................................................................. 169 7.4 Repeating outfits ............................................................................................. 173 7.5 Facing the public ............................................................................................. 176 7.5.1 Before going out ................................................................................... 177 7.5.2 After going out ..................................................................................... 183 7.6 Negotiation with men ...................................................................................... 184 7.7 Summary ......................................................................................................... 191 Chapter 8 Images, Nationalities and Localities ........................................................ 193
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Picnic Skirt FREE YOUTUBE TUTORIAL
    Picnic Skirt FREE YOUTUBE TUTORIAL © 2020 Charm Patterns by Gertie SEWING INSTRUCTIONS NOTES: This style can be made for any size child or adult, as long as you know the waist measurement, how long you want the skirt, and how full you want the skirt. I used 4 yards of width, which results in a big, full skirt with lots of gathers packed in. You can easily use a shorter yardage of fabric if you prefer fewer gathers or you’re making the skirt for a smaller person or child. Seam Finishing: all raw edges are fully enclosed in the construction process, so there is no need for seam finishing. Make a vintage-inspired button-front skirt without 5/8-inch (in) (1.5 cm) seam allowances are included on all pattern pieces, except a pattern! This cute design where otherwise noted. can be made for ANY size, from child to adult! Watch CUT YOUR SKIRT PIECES my YouTube tutorial to see 1. Cut the skirt rectangle: the width should be your desired fullness (mine is how it’s done. You can find 4 yards) plus 6 in for the doubled front overlap/facing. The length should be the coordinating top by your desired length, plus 6 in for the hem allowance, plus 5/8 in for the waist seam subscribing to our Patreon allowance. at www.patreon.com/ Length: 27 in. gertiesworld. (or your desired length) Length: + Skirt rectangle 6 in hem allowance xoxo, Gertie 27 in. Cut 1 fabric (or your + desired length) ⅝ in waist seam + Skirt rectangle 6 in hem allowance Cut 1 fabric MATERIALS + & NOTIONS ⅝ in waist seam • 4¼ yds skirt fabric (you Width: 4 yards (or your desired fullness) + 6 in for front overlap may need more or less depending on the size and Length: 27 in.
    [Show full text]
  • Street Stylers Nailing This Summer’S Key Trends
    STYLE KIM: There’s something very CLAIRE: Polka dots don’t have Alexa Chung about this outfit. to be cutesy. Our girl proves While on paper long-sleeved, that a few choice accessories calf-length, polka-dot co-ords can turn a twee print into an sound hard to pull off, this street uber-cool look. I’ll be taking styler rocks it. The cut-out shoes tips from her styling book and and round sunglasses add the teaming dotty co-ords with right amount of edge to make chunky heels, techno shades this all so effortlessly cool. and an ice white backpack. WE ❤ YOUR STYLE Our fashion team spy the street stylers nailing this summer’s key trends Kim Pidgeon, Claire Blackmore, fashion editor deputy fashion editor KIM: If you’ve been looking for CLAIRE: Cropped jacket, double KIM: If you’re going to rock CLAIRE: Culotte jumpsuits double denim inspiration, look denim and flares all in S/S15’s one hot hue, why not make can be a tough trend to wear no further. The frayed jean dress boldest colours – this lady’s top it magenta? This wide-leg well, but with powder blue and flares combo is this season’s of the catwalk class. I love the jumpsuit has easy breezy shoes, matching sunnies and trend heaven. The emerald clashing shades and strong lines summer style written all over an arty bag, this fashionista green boxy jacket, the snake- created by the pockets and it, while the ankle-tie heels masters it. The hot pink works print lace-up heels and the hems cutting her off at different and sunnies give an injection with her pastel accessories patent bag are what make this points on the body.
    [Show full text]
  • TOP 10 Things to Do Eats‧Buys‧Visits
    TOP 10 Things to Do Travel Information 01 Visit Distinctive Neighborhoods 06 Drink Tea While Admiring the Scenery Visitor Information Centers Each of Taipei’s shopping areas has its own character. Visiting Dadaocheng, Bangka, and Maokong, in the southeast corner of the city, offers rare scenes of tea plantations close to the Ximending, you can appreciate old buildings and traditional culture. The young generation city. The Wenshan Baozhong and Tieguanyin teas grown here are renowned. After walking MRT Xinbeitou Station 700, Daye Rd., Taipei City (by MRT Xinbeitou Station exit) MAP A-1 has sown the seeds of creativity here and reinterpreted local culture, giving old blocks an past the tea fields on a hiking trail, stop off at a teahouse for a rest and enjoy drinking fine Visitor Information Center (02) 2891-2972 irresistible charm. Taipei’s East District is the place to search for fashionable stores, with Taipei tea and eating tasty tea dishes. To get to Maokong take the Maokong Gondola and go on a MRT Jiantan Station 65, Sec. 5, Zhongshan N. Rd., Taipei City (close to Exit 1) 101 and the Xinyi shopping area serving as bustling fashion hubs. The lanes and alleys of ride which offers stunning views of green hills and tea plantations. Nangang Tea Processing MAP B-3 Visitor Information Center (02) 2883-0313 Yongkang Street and Section 2 of Zhongshan North Road are characterized by distinctive Demonstration Center is another place to learn about tea culture. Offering fine teas from culture. Search out some small stores with unique style and add more fun to your trip! across Taiwan and various experiential activities, everyone is invited to drink tea and chat.
    [Show full text]
  • Copyrighted Material
    04_144350 ch01.qxp 1/25/08 8:24 PM Page 1 Chapter One THE BEST OF HONG KONG, BEIJING, SHANGHAI & TAIPEI There is an old Chinese curse that goes something like this: May you live in interesting times. Perhaps all times are interesting, none more so than those related to the New China . of 2008 and the Olympic Games and the World’s Fair in Shanghai in 2010. China Onstage. So I’d like to twist the ancient curse into a prayer for you and yours: May you shop in somewhat dirty street markets but contract no disease. May you never pay more than 100 of anything (yuan, Hong Kong dollars, euros—whatever). May you gaze at the New China and understand that you see the future—and it is powerful. Hey, I know there’s a real China out there, that miners are dying in horrific accidents, and that many couples still are per- mitted only one child. But as a visitor to glam parts of Shang- hai and Beijing, you will be hard-pressed to find it. With the Olympics considered a turning point for the gov- ernment, everything has become cleaner and more generic, brighter, and even garish. Hong Kong still shimmers as an oasis, althoughCOPYRIGHTED prices are higher on most MATERIAL items (except designer goods, which cost 20% less than in mainland China). This is the new China, and it has been built by the world’s finest archi- tects. You can’t help but be impressed. 1 04_144350 ch01.qxp 1/25/08 8:24 PM Page 2 2 THE BEST OF HONG KONG, BEIJING, SHANGHAI & TAIPEI If you’re antsy about the rate of exchange on the dollar against the euro, Asia is your new best friend.
    [Show full text]
  • Taipei, Taiwan Agenda
    Introduction Handbook May20 – May 26 2015 Taipei, Taiwan Agenda 5/20 5/21 5/22 5/23 5/24 5/25 5/26 0800 Chiropractic Jiu- 0900 Therapy OSCE Fen Pinching Clay Chinese 1000 0830-1100 0900-1200 & Bones ft. Medicine 1100 Miaokou Sewing Pigskin Lab Arrival Night 1200 0900-1200 0900-1200 Market Departure 1300 The National Chiang Kai-shek Huashan 1400 Hospital Palace Memorial Hall picnic 1500 Tour museum & Longshan 1600 1400-1630 Temple & BRAIN Ximending 2.0 1700 Yongkang 1600-1800 Welcome street 1800 party & Taipei 101 Farewell 1900 Shida night party 2000 market 2100 2200 2300 Social Social Social Social Social 2400 program program program program program 0100 0200 1 Hotel Information Hotel location 1. Address ： City Suites Taipei Nandong （城市商旅南東館） No.411, Sec.5, Nanjing East Road, Taipei . TEL:02-2742-5888 2. Surroundings Hotel service 1. Pickup service ： Hotel—Taoyuan International Airport is 1600NTD/one-way and is about 40- 60 min. 2. Television 3. DVD audio-visual equipment 4. Personal safe deposit box 5. Buffet breakfast service time: (Weekdays) am7:00-am10:00 (Weekends) am7:00-am10:30 6. Free drinks and Wifi at lobby 7. Separate bath and shower stall 8. Tips are not necessary. 2 Information about TMU Location Our school is 台北醫學大學 (Taipei Medical University) Address ：臺北市信義區吳興街臺北市信義區吳興街 250 號號號 (250 Wuxing Street, Taipei City) School buildings There are several buildings and classrooms in the campus. 1. 2XXX classrooms are in the Instruction Building. ( 6 in the above map) 2. 3XXX classrooms are in the Health Science Building. ( 1 in the above map) 3.
    [Show full text]
  • The Changing Status of Women in Taiwan: 1945-2010
    The Changing Status of Women in Taiwan: 1945-2010 by Mei-Lien Lu A dissertation submitted to the Graduate Faculty of Auburn University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy Auburn, Alabama May 7, 2012 Key words: women, status, Taiwan, culture, development, democratization Copyright 2012 by Mei-Lien Lu Approved by Cal Clark, Chair, Alumni Professor of Political Science, Director of the MPA Program Cynthia J. Bowling, Associate Professor of Political Science and Ph.D. Program Director Linda F. Dennard, Professor of Political Science at Auburn University-Montgomery Murray Jardine, Jane Dickerson Lanier Professor of Political Science Abstract This dissertation analyzes the economic, social, and political status of women in Taiwan from 1945 to 2010. This research was guided by a theoretical model of how the status of women worldwide is influenced by the extent of patriarchal culture, the level of economic development, and the degree of democratization. Hypotheses drawn from the theoretical model were tested by using data collected from 174 developing and developed nations. Overall, the statistical analysis found that patriarchal culture, economic development, and democratization exert fairly strong influences over some dimensions of women’s status but have little association with others. This implies that the nature of women’s status is complex and complicated because each nation has its own circumstances that are shaped by its historical background, traditional culture, geographic location, and so on. Therefore case studies of individual countries should provide valuable insights into the dynamics of women’s changing status in the contemporary world. This dissertation presents such a case study that analyzes the status of Taiwanese women in terms of social conditions, human and social capital, economic activities, and political participation and power.
    [Show full text]
  • Taipei's Night Market!
    ENGLISH DEPARTMENT, FU JEN CATHOLIC UNIVERSITY GRADUATION PROJECT 2016 Good Eats: Taipei’s Night Market! 2014 Graduation Project Zoe Sung, Silvia Liu, Belle Chuang Sung, Liu, and Chuang 1 401110145 Zoe Sung 401110406 Silvia Liu 401110482 Belle Chuang 2014 Graduation Project Dr. Donna Tong Project Paper 14 January 2015 Good Eats: Taipei’s Night Market! I. Introduction When it comes to the food in Taiwan, what would people recommend? For Taiwanese people, other than big restaurant such as Din Tai Fung, they would definitely mention the food in Taiwan’s night markets. Night markets are truly the essential part in Taiwanese food culture that everyone should know. Therefore, if any foreign visitor who comes to Taiwan, he or she should never miss to go to the night markets! When approaching a night market, one can smell the fragrance of delicious food coming to the nose and sense the night market’s bustling atmosphere. At a night market, one would find crowds of people filling almost every inch of the market that it is impossible to walk freely. In Taiwan, night markets are so ubiquitous that they are often the places for people to gather together to have fun, shopping, playing games, and eating tasty snacks. People can do plenty of things in a night market, for example, kids can play games, parents can get a foot massage, and young people can go shopping. Most important of all, people are able to eat delicious Taiwanese snacks. Moreover, a night market represents an important cultural aspect of Taiwan. Night markets are mostly located at places with dense traffic and crowds where vendor could attract more customers.
    [Show full text]
  • Dress Code Is a Presentation of Who We Are.” 1997-98 Grand Officers
    CLOTHING GUIDELINES: MEMBERS AND ADULTS (Reviewed annually during Grand Officer Leadership; changes made as needed) Changes made by Jr. Grand Executive Committee (November 2016) “A dress code is a presentation of who we are.” 1997-98 Grand Officers One of the benefits of Rainbow is helping our members mature into beautiful, responsible young women - prepared to meet challenges with dignity, grace and poise. The following guidelines are intended to help our members make appropriate clothing choices, based on the activities they will participate in as Rainbow girls. The Clothing Guidelines will be reviewed annually by the Jr. Members of the Grand Executive Committee. Recommendations for revisions should be forwarded to the Supreme Officer prior to July 15th of each year. REGULAR MEETINGS Appropriate: Short dress, including tea-length and high-low length, or skirt and blouse or sweater or Nevada Rainbow polo shirt (tucked in) with khaki skirt or denim skirt. Vests are acceptable. Skirt length: Ideally, HEMS should not be more than three inches above the knee. Skirts, like pencil skirts that hug the body and require “adjustment” after bowing or sitting, are unacceptable. How to tell if a skirt has a Rainbow appropriate length? Try the “Length Test”, which includes: When bowing from the waist, are your undergarments visible, or do you need to hold your skirt - or shirt - down in the back? If so, it's too short for a Rainbow meeting. Ask your mother or father to stand behind you and in front of you while you bow from the waist. If she/he gasps, the outfit is not appropriate for a Rainbow meeting.
    [Show full text]
  • Hanae Mori Velvet Shift Dress
    Hanae Mori Target Dress, ca.1970. Ryerson FRC2009.03.001AB. Donated by Jocelyn Ryles. HANAE MORI VELVET SHIFT DRESS By Dr. Ingrid Mida This Hanae Mori shift dress with stand collar, short sleeves and belt is made and Kimberly Leckey out of velvet and is fully lined in black polyester satin. The design on the front of the dress is an abstracted pink and red circular target pattern. The design May 16, 2014 on the back of the dress is an abstracted motif of black and gray. One sleeve is in black velvet and the other sleeve is a repeat of the target pattern. The dress closes with a back metal zipper and two hooks and eyes at the collar. This Hanae Mori velvet shift dress with belt (FRC2009.03.001 A+B) was donated to the Ryerson Fashion Research Collection in 2009 by Jocelyn Ryles. No other provenance information was obtained at the time of donation. The following description and analysis was written by Ryerson School of Fashion student Kimberly Leckey and was revised and edited by Collection Coordinator Ingrid Mida. It should be noted that Kimberly Leckey’s interpretation of this dress represents only one of many possibilities. This dress might also be used to consider a range of topics in a scholarly approach to fashion research including: the design practices of Hanae Mori over her career, the nature of Japanese designers on western fashion, or perhaps the psychology reflected in the styles and silhouettes of 1970s fashions for women. 1 Hanae Mori DESCRIPTION Target Dress, The dress is sewn together with black polyester thread and the inside seams ca.1970.
    [Show full text]
  • Religion and the Making of Women's Alternative Space in Taiwan's Economic Restructuring
    City University of New York (CUNY) CUNY Academic Works Publications and Research John Jay College of Criminal Justice 2008 Women of the Sisters' Hall: religion and the making of women's alternative space in Taiwan's economic restructuring Anru Lee John Jay College of Criminal Justice How does access to this work benefit ou?y Let us know! More information about this work at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu/jj_pubs/12 Discover additional works at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu This work is made publicly available by the City University of New York (CUNY). Contact: [email protected] 1 Women of the Sisters' Hall: religion and the making of women's alternative space in Taiwan's economic restructuring To cite this Article: Lee, Anru (2008) ―Women of the Sisters' Hall: religion and the making of women's alternative space in Taiwan's economic restructuring,‖ Gender, Place & Culture, 15(4): 373-393. During the course of my research on labor and gender politics in Taiwan‘s recent economic restructuring, I came to know a group of middle-aged working-class women who were believers of I-Kuan Tao (Yiguan Dao), the Unity Way, ‗a syncretic, moralistic religion whose members practice vegetarianism and are led by charismatic masters‘ (Skoggard 1996, 157). Aged from early thirties to late fifties when I started collecting my data in the mid-1990s, these women lived together in the Sacred Heaven Fo-t‘ang (literally ‗Sacred Heaven Buddha Hall‘), an I-Kuan Tao temple in Homei, a small town in central Taiwan known for its history in textile production.
    [Show full text]
  • Bakalářská Práce Vivienne Westwood – from Punk Culture to Haute
    Západočeská univerzita v Plzni Fakulta filozofická Bakalářská práce Vivienne Westwood – From Punk Culture to Haute Couture Michaela Vojteková Plzeň 2018 Západočeská univerzita v Plzni Fakulta filozofická Katedra anglického jazyka a literatury Studijní program Filologie Studijní obor Cizí jazyky pro komerční praxi Kombinace angličtina - francouzština Bakalářská práce Vivienne Westwood – From Punk Culture to Haute Couture Michaela Vojteková Vedoucí práce: Mgr. Lenka Dejmalová, Ph.D. Katedra anglického jazyka a literatury Fakulta filozofická Západočeské univerzity v Plzni Plzeň 2018 Prohlašuji, že jsem práci zpracoval (a) samostatně a použil (a) jen uvedených pramenů a literatury. Plzeň, duben 2018 ……………………… Poděkování Ráda bych tímto poděkovala paní Mgr. Lence Dejmalové, Ph.D. za její cenné rady a věcné připomínky při zpracování této bakalářské práce. Table of contents Introduction ..................................................................................................................... 6 1 HISTORY OF FASHION DESIGN AND CLOTHES .......................................... 9 1.1 FASHION DESIGN ......................................................................................... 10 1.2 FASHION AS ART .......................................................................................... 12 1.3 GENDER STEREOTYPES ............................................................................. 12 1.4 FASHION SHOWS .......................................................................................... 13 2 SUBCULTURE AS A TERM
    [Show full text]
  • Information to Users
    INFORMATION TO USERS This manuscript has been reproduced from the microfilm master. UMI films the text directly from the original or copy submitted. Thus, some thesis and dissertation copies are in typewriter face, while others may be from any type of computer printer. The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. Broken or indistinct print, colored or poor quality illustrations and photographs, print bleedthrough, substandard margins, and improper alignment can adversely affect reproduction. In the unlikely event that the author did not send UMI a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if unauthorized copyright material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Oversize materials (e.g., maps, drawings, charts) are reproduced by sectioning the original, beginning at the upper left-hand corner and continuing from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. Each original is also photographed in one exposure and is included in reduced form at the back of the book. Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographically in this copy. Higher quality 6" x 9" black and white photographic prints are available for any photographs or illustrations appearing in this copy for an additional charge. Contact UMI directly to order. University Microfilms International A Bell & Howell Information Company 300 North Zeeb Road. Ann Arbor. Ml 48106-1346 USA 313/761-4700 800/521-0600 Order Number 9120640 Society, state, and electronic media policy: The introduction of cable to Taiwan Chang, Chung-jen, Ph.D. The Ohio State University, 1991 UMI 300 N.
    [Show full text]