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CAPITOL REEF National Monument Utah its scattered acres of tillable land that they had shallow lagoons, and wide, sluggish streams, pinnacles and rounded domes in striking resem­ Just after crossing Fremont River bridge- little time for appreciation of its scenic values. and was inhabited by giant reptiles and amphib­ blance to the rounded domes of many capitol going east—a foot trail leads up a steep slope CAPITOL REEF Its painted cliffs and deep gorges meant only- ians. During a long period of time, silt was buildings. These features suggested the descrip­ into Cohab Canyon, a hanging gorge which days of hard riding, searching for strayed stock. deposited over this large area in thin layers, tive name of Capitol Reef. received its name during the days of polygamy Impassable roads discouraged visitors, and the until several hundred feet of brown and red in Utah when men sought for "cohabitation with plural wives" used it as a hideout. Haifa area remained practically unknown to the out­ ripple-marked shale and sandstone, known as PLACES OF SPECIAL INTEREST National Monument side world for another 40 years. the Moenkopi formation, had accumulated. mile down this canyon a rock monument marks In January 1854, Col. John C. Fremont and Over this was laid the sandstone of the Shinar- Highly colored cliffs and fantastic erosional a trail to the rim overlooking the river. This A region of intricately eroded, brightly colored, and tilted, sedimentary rocks, awesome his expedition looked down from Thousand ump and the brown, red, and gray-green shales forms extend all the way through the monu­ point provides wonderful views of the upper cliffs and canyons, and rock masses carved by the elements into weird and fanciful figures. Lake Mountain into the present monument, but of the Chinle formation. Above this came the ment and are visible from the highway. Colors reef (invisible from below), the canyon of little is known of this traverse. In 1866, a semi- Wingate sandstone, deposited over a compara­ appear best in early morning or late afternoon. Fremont River, the settlement of Fruita with Capitol Reef National Monument is located line of high, sheer, brightly colored cliffs military expedition of Mormons, under the tively short period by continuous action and Three miles from Fruita is a natural bridge, its orchards, and Miners Mountain. in the heart of what was formerly called the fantastically eroded by rain and wind. leadership of Capt. James Andrus, came in from forming a monolithic stratum several hundred an outstanding attraction. It is reached by foot East of the highway, 2 miles south of Fruita, Wayne Wonderland, a vast scenic region in The region is poorly supplied with water, and, the south over the Boulder Mountain route. In feet thick. or on horseback, and takes about 3 hours for the is the entrance to Grand Wash, containing some Wayne County, Utah. A large section of this except for the stream bottoms in a few places, 1871, two prospectors left their names in the A rather reddish, shaly formation, known as round trip. The opening of this bridge is 72 feet of the most spectacular scenery in the monu­ Wonderland, some of which has never been ex­ the aspect is desertlike and vegetation is scarce. Capitol Wash, and, in 1875, A. H. Thompson, the Kayenta, separates the Wingate from the high, with a span of 133 feet. A good 1-day ment. With care, cars can be driven down this plored, is included in the monument. The area Pinyons are found along the base of the cliffs geographer of the Powell Survey, made the first great massive overlying deposit of sandstone horseback trip is from Fruita to the bridge, wash about 3 miles. A short hike brings one to was established as a national monument by on the Fruita-Notom Road, and a group of geographic and geologic reconnaissance of the called the Navajo, the upper section of which then down Fremont Canyon to Grand Wash the Narrows, where sheer sandstone walls rise Presidential proclamation in 1937 and contains ferns, boxelders, and oaks afford a rare setting area. was deposited or disturbed by wind action, in­ and up this wash to the highway. A trail which 1,000 feet or more and the winding canyon 33,068.74 acres of Federal lands. near a spring at the head of Cove Canyon. The first permanent settler at Fruita, Utah, dicating somewhat desert conditions. Even can be negotiated on horse or on foot leads narrows to about 16 feet. The area includes an accessible section of the was Neils Johnson who located a homestead, above this there were deposited many of the around and above the natural bridge to the Following the colorful cliffs 8 miles south­ Waterpocket Fold, an unusual geological earth HISTORY in 1880, and planted the first vines and fruit Cretaceous formations, here eroded completely rim overlooking Fruita from the west. A guide east of Fruita, a side road leads to Pleasant movement, the escarpment of which extends trees. The settlement has never supported more away, but still exposed a few miles to the east. is required for this trip. Creek Guest Ranch. from Thousand Lake Mountain to the Colorado Because of its peculiar geographical isolation, than 8 or 10 families. The road through narrow Following this long period of filling and Fremont River Canyon, east of Fruita, con­ Just beyond this side road, State Route 24 River, a distance of about 150 miles. In its en­ the Fremont River drainage was the last section Capitol Wash was pioneered by Cutler Behunin, settling, the region was slowly lifted by moun­ tains some very attractive scenery, but at present enters Capitol Wash, the outstanding scenic tire length, this fold, or reef, can be crossed in of Utah to be explored and settled. Pioneers who was 8 days in traveling 3 Vi miles. tain-making forces. Erosion by streams, rain, and there is no marked trail, and a guide is advisable attraction of the monument. For 3 Vi miles only three places on horseback and in only one who came with covered wagons, in 1880, found wind removed the softer upper formations and since the river must be forded many times. it winds through a deep canyon so narrow that place by automobile. Its western exposure is a so many difficulties to overcome in cultivating then cut deep channels and gorges into the EVIDENCE OF PREHISTORIC INDIANS more resistant rock. Erosion of these tilted beds has produced the high Capitol Reef, the great There is every evidence that prehistoric In­ domes above it, and the innumerable towers and The reef front exposes tilted, colorful beds of ancient rocks. Man is dwarfed by huge formations in Grand Wash. dians known as Basket Makers found this area pinnacles in the valleys and along the cliffs. attractive and raised corn on flat plots of ground Below are described the most conspicuous near the river. Smooth cliff walls are covered formations, which may be observed by the visi­ with hundreds of petroglyphs of unusual size tor who travels from west to east across the and style, attributed to Basket Makers of the monument. The road through the monument Fremont River culture. Many of these ancient lies principally upon Moenkopi shale, the dark engravings were colored in various tints, some red or brown ripple-marked rock showing un­ of the old primitive paint still adhering to the usual erosional forms along the cliff base be­ rocks. These Basket Makers lived in open caves, tween Torrey and Fruita. Above this is the thick but built many small stone structures for stor­ exposure of Chinle shale, red or maroon in age of corn. When opened by the pioneers, the color, with a distinctive wide band of gray-green caves were found to contain numerous artifacts at the base. and other prehistoric relics. In the upper part of this formation are found quantities of petrified wood. Above the Chinle GEOLOGICAL SIGNIFICANCE lies about 600 feet of Wingate sandstone, form­ ing the sheer red cliffs which dominate the Like other parts of the Colorado River Basin, landscape. the Capitol Reef region was once a low-lying, Finally, as a cap rock, the gray or white almost level country consisting of swamps. Navajo sandstone rests on top. It is eroded into cars can pass only in certain places, but every tain Route which connects with State Route bend presents a new vista of beauty. This 24, a mile east of Torrey. This road reaches an canyon is safe for travel, except during cloud­ elevation of 9,500 feet and is usually free of CAPITOL REEF burst season. Entering the narrows of this gorge, snow from June 15 to October 15; however, about halfway through, Indian petroglyphs may local inquiry should always be made before NATIONAL MONUMENT be seen on the north wall. At the narrowest traveling this route. UTAH CAPITOL REEF point, a large group of pioneer names have been carved, dating back to 1871. FACILITIES FOR VISITORS About 2 miles from the west end of the gorge a dim trail leads to the top of the reef, below Capitol Reef Lodge, which is on privately National Monument the Golden Throne, and down into Grand owned land, offers accommodations and meals Wash. This is an interesting trip, but should for a limited number of guests. A few guest not be attempted without a guide. cabins are maintained by local ranchers. Camp­ No trails have been built into the wild upper ing space, with tables and fireplaces, is available Utah sections of Capitol Reef National Monument, in the vicinity of the ranger station.

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