Whirinaki Te Pua-A-Tāne – Walks and Tracks Brochure

WALKS AND TRACKS in Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne Conservation Park

Photos: All photos, unless otherwise credited, are copyright Neil Hutton

Published by: Department of Conservation Whakatane Office 1/100 Valley Road Whakatane 3120

November 2019

Editing and design: DOC Creative Services

Conservation House, Wellington

Whirinaki. Photo: Neil Hutton Neil Photo:

into an overnight adventure. overnight an into

THIS PAGE: PAGE: THIS

perfect introduction to biking in the the in biking to introduction perfect

opportunity to turn this demanding ride ride demanding this turn to opportunity

David Finn David Photo: Photo:

of the track can also be ridden. It is the the is It ridden. be also can track the of Mangakahika Hut. Mangakahika

let others catch up. They also pose the the pose also They up. catch others let

resources are preserved for future generations. generations. future for preserved are resources

COVER PHOTO: COVER

The track is 16 km and shorter sections sections shorter and km 16 is track The

spots are great places to have a rest and and rest a have to places great are spots

ensure the unique nature of the park and its natural natural its and park the of nature unique the ensure

medium fitness and skill level (grade 2). 2). (grade level skill and fitness medium www.ngatiwhare.iwi.nz

Skips, Rogers and Moerangi. All three three All Moerangi. and Rogers Skips, Hineruarangi

the Department of Conservation work in partnership to to partnership in work Conservation of Department the

mountain biker and requires a low/ a requires and biker mountain

Situated along the track are three huts, huts, three are track the along Situated

Ngāti Whare is is Whare Ngāti

including food, shelter and medicine. Ngāti Whare and and Whare Ngāti medicine. and shelter food, including

The track is designed for the recreational recreational the for designed is track The med

The Kaitiaki for for Kaitiaki The

medium/high level of fitness. fitness. of level medium/high

Fitness:

Low/ has traditionally provided a wealth of benefits benefits of wealth a provided traditionally has

i rēira. Nā Ngāti Whare te whenua e manāki. e whenua te Whare Ngāti Nā rēira. i

high experience. or sacred treasure, as it it as treasure, sacred or Did you know? you Did hill sections and therefore requires a a requires therefore and sections hill

Fitness: Med/ Mangamate e noho rerehua ana, nui ngā wāhi noho noho wāhi ngā nui ana, rerehua noho e Mangamate

EASY

the quintessential Whirinaki riding riding Whirinaki quintessential the

considered to be a taonga taonga a be to considered skill levels. The track does have sustained sustained have does track The levels. skill

Kei te waharoa o Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne te puni puni te Pua-a-Tāne Te Whirinaki o waharoa te Kei

interesting forests in the world, providing providing world, the in forests interesting

TE Whare. The forest is is forest The Whare. (grade 3) designed to attract people of all all of people attract to designed 3) (grade

INTERMEDIA

gateway to the Whirinaki. Whirinaki. the to gateway

through one of the most spectacular and and spectacular most the of one through

traditional rohe of Ngāti Ngāti of rohe traditional is an intermediate grade biking track track biking grade intermediate an is operated by Ngāti Whare and conveniently located at the the at located conveniently and Whare Ngāti by operated

Grade: Track is purpose-built and weaves weaves and purpose-built is Track 2 Mangamate Campground is a beautiful and spacious site site spacious and beautiful a is Campground Mangamate mountain bikers and trampers. The track track The trampers. and bikers mountain Whirinaki is within the the within is Whirinaki

The Whirinaki Forest Mountain Bike Bike Mountain Forest Whirinaki The

the most spacious. most the Grade: dual purpose track which attracts both both attracts which track purpose dual 3 Distance: 16 km 16

Tangata whenua Tangata

in the Whirinaki, and is also also is and Whirinaki, the in

The Moerangi Mountain Bike Track is a a is Track Bike Mountain Moerangi The

Distance: 35 km 35

Whirinaki Forest Mountain Bike Track Bike Mountain Forest Whirinaki

BG38; E1917397, N5702324 E1917397, BG38;

It is the most popular hut hut popular most the is It podocarp forest. podocarp

Location:

NZTopo50 map sheet sheet map NZTopo50

Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne. Pua-a-Tāne. Te Whirinaki Moerangi Mountain Bike Track Bike Mountain Moerangi

what goes up inevitably comes down! down! comes inevitably up goes what and is surrounded by by surrounded is and BG38; E1920570, N5703851 E1920570, BG38;

park; 3 hr from Plateau car park car Plateau from hr 3 park;

Location: Hut is the gateway to to gateway the is Hut

overlooking the Whirinaki Whirinaki the overlooking

NZTopo50 map sheet sheet map NZTopo50 a ride that demands respect but offers rich rewards as as rewards rich offers but respect demands that ride a

Access:

5 hr from River Road car car Road River from hr 5

River, Central Whirinaki Whirinaki Central River, Road car park car Road saddle with great views views great with saddle

challenging single track and 1000 m of climbing, it is is it climbing, of 1000 m and track single challenging

Whirinaki Hut; 4 hr from River River from hr 4 Hut; Whirinaki

clearing on the Whirinaki Whirinaki the on clearing Restrictions: situated high on a a on high situated

Dogs by permit only permit by Dogs

itself a reputation as a ‘must do’ track. With 35 km of of 35 km With track. do’ ‘must a as reputation a itself Access:

4 hr 30 min from Upper Upper from min 30 hr 4 This publication is produced using paper sourced from well-managed,

Sited in a large grassy grassy large a in Sited

Facilties: the new hut is now now is hut new the

Heating, mattresses Heating,

biker, the Moerangi Mountain Bike Track has earned earned has Track Bike Mountain Moerangi the biker,

Category: the Mangamate Stream, Stream, Mangamate the

Restrictions:

Serviced, 25 bunk beds bunk 25 Serviced,

Dogs by permit only permit by Dogs

Mountain Bike Track. For the passionate mountain mountain passionate the For Track. Bike Mountain

Central Whirinaki Hut Whirinaki Central

Originally located by by located Originally

Facilities: Heating, mattresses Heating,

Whirinaki can easily enjoy the Whirinaki Forest Forest Whirinaki the enjoy easily can Whirinaki

Category:

Photo: David Finn David Photo: Standard, 9 bunk beds bunk 9 Standard,

Mangamate Hut Mangamate adventures to be had by all. New riders to the the to riders New all. by had be to adventures

Today Whirinaki is an outdoors playground with with playground outdoors an is Whirinaki Today Photo: David Finn David Photo:

was declared a Forest Park in 1984. 1984. in Park Forest a declared was

renewable Whirinaki and battle their won activists the legallyBellamy logged forests. de-forestation. Supported by the famous botanist David David botanist famous the by Supported de-forestation.

R159350

exploring the outdoors. outdoors. the exploring the remnants of this ancient forest from continued continued from forest ancient this of remnants the

and refuge from bad weather when you're you're when weather bad from refuge and

battlegrounds as activists fought to save and protect protect and save to fought activists as battlegrounds

stay to places unique provide Pua-a-Tāne

one of New Zealand’s most famous conservation conservation famous most Zealand’s New of one BG38; E1919935, N5707442 E1919935, BG38;

end of the clearing. the of end

Location:

Te Whirinaki in campsites and huts These NZ Topo50 map sheet sheet map Topo50 NZ

In the early 1980s Whirinaki became the focus of of focus the became Whirinaki 1980s early the In

the stream at the southern southern the at stream the

Road car park car Road

available from a tank or or tank a from available

Conservation and local iwi Ngāti Whare. Whare. Ngāti iwi local and Conservation Access: Conservation.

2 hr 30 min from River River from min 30 hr 2

stimulating and satisfying every sense. every satisfying and stimulating

with fireplace. Water is is Water fireplace. with and Department of of Department and BG38; E1918874, N5697544 E1918874, BG38; is co-governed by the Department of of Department the by co-governed is

bird life to create a fabulous forest capable of of capable forest fabulous a create to life bird

Restrictions:

Location: lunch. It has a picnic shelter shelter picnic a has It lunch.

Dogs by permit only permit by Dogs Stalkers’ Association Association Stalkers’ NZTopo50 map sheet sheet map NZTopo50

The park stretches across 56,000 ha and and ha 56,000 across stretches park The

(except during fire bans) fire during (except

with rushing rivers, fantastic ferns and bountiful bountiful and ferns fantastic rivers, rushing with good place to stop for for stop to place good Hut; 3 hr from Plateau car park car Plateau from hr 3 Hut;

managed by the NZ Deer Deer NZ the by managed

picnic shelter, campfires permitted permitted campfires shelter, picnic

Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne Conservation Park. Park. Conservation Pua-a-Tāne Te Whirinaki

Stream from Central Whirinaki Whirinaki Central from Stream

cutter’s camp, this is a a is this camp, cutter’s

water supply. This hut is is hut This supply. water

dinosaurs. These magnificent trees combine combine trees magnificent These dinosaurs.

Facilities:

Access: Water from stream, stream, from Water

3 hr 30 min via Taumutu Taumutu via min 30 hr 3

create to combine past fascinating The site of an old track track old an of site The

a wood burner, and a a and burner, wood a

powered tent sites sites tent powered the land and date back to the time of the the of time the to back date and land the

Category: hunters, with 9 bunks, bunks, 9 with hunters,

Restrictions:

Towering trees, rushing rivers and a a and rivers rushing trees, Towering

Backcountry, 3 non- 3 Backcountry,

Dogs by permit only permit by Dogs podocarp, ancient trees that once dominated dominated once that trees ancient podocarp,

Vern’s Camp Vern’s

A very popular hut for for hut popular very A

Facilities: Heating, mattresses Heating,

Whirinaki is the preserve of the mighty mighty the of preserve the is Whirinaki

Category:

Photo: David Finn David Photo: Standard, 9 bunk beds bunk 9 Standard, Upper Whirinaki Hut Whirinaki Upper

Te Pua-a-Tāne Te

Photo: David Finn David Photo: Welcome to Whirinaki Whirinaki to Welcome

• Respect wildlife and • Plan ahead and farm animals MOUNTAIN prepare • Be considerate of • Travel and camp on others HUTS AND Facilities are accessible by vehicle, boat durable ground • Minimise the effects BIKING Lodges, cabins and cottages • Dispose of waste of fire.Check before or short walk. Whirinaki Recreation Camp has an open-sided properly you light a fire – a ban CAMPSITES cooking shelter with wood BBQ, flush toilets, wood heaters, Leave what you find may be in place hot showers and lighting by candle (bring your own). See • www.doc.govt.nz/whirinakirecreationcamp. in Whirinaki have mattresses, water supply, toilets, Serviced Huts handwashing facilities and heating with fuel available. Te Pua-a-Tāne have mattresses, water supply and toilets. ACCOMMODATION, SHUTTLES, BIKE HIRE Standard Huts Tell someone before you go Wood heaters are provided at huts below the bushline. AND GUIDING have very limited facilities, so you need to be Conservation Park Basic campsites Safety is your responsibility so remember to leave details Due to the location and nature of mountain biking in the fully self-sufficient. There may be basic toilets and water from of your trip (return date and time, planned route, party Whirinaki you may need some logistical support. There are a tank, stream or lake. member names and vehicle licence plates) with a trusted have toilets and a water supply, which a number of DOC-approved operators who can help with For more information pick up a copy of the Backcountry campsites contact, and don’t forget to let them know when you accommodation, shuttle, bike hire and guiding services. may be from a stream. Picnic tables, cooking shelters or return. Information on the Outdoor Intentions System fireplaces may be provided. For a full list of operators go to: www.doc.govt.nz/whirinaki can be found at mountainsafety.org.nz. FEES PER NIGHT Remember to fill in hut books during your trip, even if RIDING SAFETY Fees you do not stay in the hut. They can assist in search and Lodges, cabins and cottages While riding the backcountry, ensure you are fully Before you go, you can buy $30.00 per cabin or rescue operations, and may help save your life. a Serviced (or Standard) prepared for any eventuality. Check the weather forecast, $90.00 for sole occupancy Hut Ticket for each night’s take sufficient food, water, tools, spare parts, first aid and stay. Put this in the honesty Serviced Huts box at the hut. Or buy a warm clothes. Always leave a copy of To stay in the hut: Adult $15, Backcountry Hut Pass that your intentions with someone responsible who can Youth $7.50, Child/Infant free gives unlimited use at most act should you not return within your time-frame. Standard and Serviced huts To camp: Adult $5, Youth: ‘Huts and campsites’ and ‘Mountain biking’ for a 6- or 12-month period. $2.50, Child/Infant free An intentions form can be found at:

www.adventuresmart.org.nz/outdoors-intentions Age ranges Standard Huts Adult: 18+ years To stay in the hut: Adult $5, Youth: 11–17 years Youth $2.50, Child/Infant free Child: 5–10 years To camp: Free Published by: 0–4 years Infant: Department of Conservation Basic campsites Whakatane Office, 1/100 Valley Road Published by: Booking is required for the Free Department of Conservation Whakatane 3120 Recreation Camp only. All Whakatane Office others are first come, first Backcountry campsites July 2017 Prices vary – check individual 1/100 Valley Road served. Editing and design: campsite pages on the website. Whakatane 3120 Publishing Team, DOC National Office Verns Camp: Free June 2018 This publication is produced using paper sourced from well-managed, renewable brochures or go to www.doc.govt.nz/whirinaki and legally logged forests. Editing and design: Hutton Neil Photo:

Track grades Creative Services Team, Finn David Photo:

are on well-formed tracks, suitable DOC National Office All photos, unless

resources are preserved for future generations. generations. future for preserved are resources into an overnight adventure. overnight an into

opportunity to turn this demanding ride ride demanding this turn to opportunity ensure the unique nature of the park and its natural natural its and park the of nature unique the ensure

Whirinaki.

let others catch up. They also pose the the pose also They up. catch others let

SHORT WALKS to partnership in work Conservation of Department the

perfect introduction to biking in the the in biking to introduction perfect

spots are great places to have a rest and and rest a have to places great are spots including food, shelter and medicine. Ngāti Whare and and Whare Ngāti medicine. and shelter food, including

of the track can also be ridden. It is the the is It ridden. be also can track the of

Skips, Rogers and Moerangi. All three three All Moerangi. and Rogers Skips, has traditionally provided a wealth of benefits benefits of wealth a provided traditionally has

The track is 16 km and shorter sections sections shorter and km 16 is track The Situated along the track are three huts, huts, three are track the along Situated

or sacred treasure, as it it as treasure, sacred or

medium fitness and skill level (grade 2). 2). (grade level skill and fitness medium

medium/high level of fitness. fitness. of level medium/high

high

considered to be a taonga taonga a be to considered otherwise credited, are

mountain biker and requires a low/ a requires and biker mountain

Fitness: Med/ hill sections and therefore requires a a requires therefore and sections hill med

Whare. The forest is is forest The Whare.

The track is designed for the recreational recreational the for designed is track The

Fitness: R106763 Low/ skill levels. The track does have sustained sustained have does track The levels. skill

traditional rohe of Ngāti Ngāti of rohe traditional For more information on Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne

I NTERM ED IA TE

experience.

(grade 3) designed to attract people of all all of people attract to designed 3) (grade

EASY Whirinaki is within the the within is Whirinaki

the quintessential Whirinaki riding riding Whirinaki quintessential the

for most abilities and fitness levels. track biking grade intermediate an is

Tangata whenua Tangata

interesting forests in the world, providing providing world, the in forests interesting

mountain bikers and trampers. The track track The trampers. and bikers mountain

Grade: 3

through one of the most spectacular and and spectacular most the of one through

dual purpose track which attracts both both attracts which track purpose dual

Grade:

what goes up inevitably comes down! down! comes inevitably up goes what

Distance:

35 km 35 Track is purpose-built and weaves weaves and purpose-built is Track The Moerangi Mountain Bike Track is a a is Track Bike Mountain Moerangi The

a ride that demands respect but offers rich rewards as as rewards rich offers but respect demands that ride a

Distance: 16 km 16 The Whirinaki Forest Mountain Bike Bike Mountain Forest Whirinaki The

Moerangi Mountain Bike Track Bike Mountain Moerangi

challenging single track and 1000 m of climbing, it is is it climbing, of 1000 m and track single challenging thanks to Sven Martin. Whirinaki Forest Mountain Bike Track Bike Mountain Forest Whirinaki

itself a reputation as a ‘must do’ track. With 35 km of of 35 km With track. do’ ‘must a as reputation a itself

biker, the Moerangi Mountain Bike Track has earned earned has Track Bike Mountain Moerangi the biker,

are easy to moderate walks mountain passionate the For Track. Bike Mountain

Whirinaki can easily enjoy the Whirinaki Forest Forest Whirinaki the enjoy easily can Whirinaki Conservation Park go to www.doc.govt.nz/whirinaki

adventures to be had by all. New riders to the the to riders New all. by had be to adventures

This publication with playground outdoors an is Whirinaki Today is produced using paper sourced from well-managed,

WALKING TRACKS 1984. in Park Forest a declared was

Whirinaki and battle their won activists the Bellamy

de-forestation. Supported by the famous botanist David David botanist famous the by Supported de-forestation.

the remnants of this ancient forest from continued continued from forest ancient this of remnants the

battlegrounds as activists fought to save and protect protect and save to fought activists as battlegrounds

one of New Zealand’s most famous conservation conservation famous most Zealand’s New of one In the early 1980s Whirinaki became the focus of of focus the became Whirinaki 1980s early the In 1

renewable and legally logged forests.

for up to a full-day return, on mostly well-formed sense. every satisfying and stimulating

bird life to create a fabulous forest capable of of capable forest fabulous a create to life bird

with rushing rivers, fantastic ferns and bountiful bountiful and ferns fantastic rivers, rushing with

dinosaurs. These magnificent trees combine combine trees magnificent These dinosaurs.

the land and date back to the time of the the of time the to back date and land the

podocarp, ancient trees that once dominated dominated once that trees ancient podocarp,

Whirinaki is the preserve of the mighty mighty the of preserve the is Whirinaki

tracks. May be steep, rough or muddy. Pua-a-Tāne Te Welcome to Whirinaki Whirinaki to Welcome are challenging day or multi- R112024 TRAMPING TRACKS MOUNTAIN BIKING day tramping. May have steep grades. Suitable for For more information pick up a copy of the ACCOMMODATION, SHUTTLES, BIKE HIRE AND GUIDING Due to the location and nature of mountain biking in the Whirinaki you may need some logistical support. There are a number of DOC-approved operators who can help with accommodation, shuttle, bike hire and guiding services. fit, experienced and adequately equipped people. For a full list of operators go to: www.doc.govt.nz/whirinaki RIDING SAFETY While riding the backcountry, ensure you are fully prepared for any eventuality. Check the weather forecast, ‘Walks and tracks’ and ‘Mountain biking’ take sufficient food, water, tools, spare parts, first aid and

warm clothes. Always leave a copy of

your intentions with someone responsible who can act should you not return within your time-frame.

An intentions form can be found at: tracks are shared by walkers and www.adventuresmart.org.nz/outdoors-intentions

DUAL USE Published by: Department of Conservation Whakatane Office, 1/100 Valley Road brochures or go to www.doc.govt.nz/whirinaki Whakatane 3120 July 2017 Editing and design: Publishing Team, DOC National Office

This publication is produced using paper sourced from well-managed, renewable mountain bikers. People heading uphill should and legally logged forests. All photos, unless For more information on Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne otherwise credited, are Conservation Park go to www.doc.govt.nz/whirinaki thanks to Sven Martin. give way to those heading down. Respect R112024 others, respect the rules, respect the track. Contents Nau mai, haere mai and welcome to Welcome ��3 Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne Ngāti Whare – kaitiaki of Whirinaki ��5 Conservation Park Our link to Gondwana ��7 A precious remnant ��7 Stepping into the Whirinaki Forest is like To save a forest ��8 travelling back in time. Giant trees, ancient A New Zealand rainforest ��9 and moss-laden, tower overhead, soaring up to 65 m (215 ft) into the sky. Whirinaki short walks ��11 1. Whirinaki Waterfall Loop Track �� 12 With a combined total of 155 km of walking, 2. Waiatiu Falls Track �� 13 tramping and mountain biking tracks, 3. Arohaki Lagoon Track �� 13 51 endangered species, and 1000-year-old 4. Sanctuary Track and Whirinaki trees, the Whirinaki Forest is a wonder Night Life Walk �� 14 of our world. 5. H-tree Track �� 14 6. Whirinaki Recreation Camp tracks �� 15

Multi-day adventures �� 17 The Whirinaki Track �� 18 Mangamate Loop Track ��20 Moerangi Track �� 22 Te Pua-a-Tāne Circuit �� 24

Planning your trip ��back cover fold-out Track grades, times, symbol key Map Getting there Know before you go

3 Photo: Reg Quinn Ko au ko te Whirinaki, ko te Whirinaki ko au I am the Whirinaki, and the Whirinaki is me

The history of Māori tribe Ngāti Whare is written on the hills, valleys, and trees of the Whirinaki. Numerous historic pā sites are located within the forest, carved wooden bird traps have been found high in the boughs of trees, and living tōtara still bear the preparatory marks of waka (canoe) carving. From the time their ancestor Wharepakau Tao-Tao-Ki- Te-Kapua (from whom Ngāti Whare take their name) migrated south to the Whirinaki area, Ngāti Whare have lived in close relationship with the Whirinaki Forest. As forest dwellers, the people of Ngāti Whare were dependent on the rich food resources of the forest, where birds were plentiful and held in high esteem. The taking of birds was strictly controlled and rāhui (prohibition) would occasionally be put on sections of forest to allow bird populations to recover. The forest also provided many other necessities: timber for shelters, waka (canoes), weapons, fortifications, and carvings; bark for household vessels and roofing; vines for lashing and hīnaki (eel pots); and feathers for clothing. Fern root was a staple food product and was cultivated in clearings created in the forest and maintained by fire and shifting cultivations. Many other forest plants were used for rongoā (medicine). Nowadays, Ngāti Whare’s kaitiakitanga (guardianship) of the forest is officially recognised and they co-govern the park with the Department of Conservation. Ngāti Whare has established a native nursery in the Minginui village and has long-term plans to restore hundreds of hectares of land neighbouring the Whirinaki back into native forests. Minginui, once home to sawmills that processed thousands of native logs, is now home to a nursery that will restore the native forests lost to logging.

4 5 Murumurunga Marae. Photo: Bob Cyca Our link to Gondwana A precious remnant Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne Conservation Park is a 56,000‑ha old-growth forest, described by acclaimed British botanist David Bellamy as one of the great forests of the world. The podocarp ancestors of Whirinaki’s trees evolved more than 200 million years ago while New Zealand was part of the supercontinent Gondwana. Bellamy was so captivated by the primordial character of the Whirinaki he called it the “Dinosaur forest – one of the best Mesozoic plant communities remaining on Earth”. Podocarp (cone-bearing) forests used to be much more extensive in New Zealand, but years of human habitation changed all that. Burning, as a hunting technique by early Māori, and later extensive land clearance for farming and exotic forestry have resulted in few such forests remaining. Today, 95% of these forests on the North Island have disappeared. Whirinaki is one of the last precious remnants and one of the best remaining examples of lowland podocarp forest left in New Zealand.

Did you know? Whirinaki Forest is one of eight security sites established to protect whio/ blue duck. Whio are river specialists and live year-round on fast-flowing rivers. The presence of whio is a key indicator of healthy rivers and streams.

6 7 Many people may not realise that it is not the famous kauri but rather the kahikatea (white pine) that is New Zealand’s tallest tree. Kahikatea bear seeds at irregular intervals, usually every 3 to 5 years, but they carry enormous quantities when they do. It has been estimated that a single kahikatea tree can produce 4,500,000 seeds (about 800 kg) during a seed year.

To save a forest A New Zealand rainforest The campaign to end native logging in New Zealand The Whirinaki is a temperate rainforest with an annual came to a head with the great battles for the rainfall of between 150 and 225 cm (59 to 88 inches). ‘Gondwanaland forests’ of Pureora and Whirinaki. The Unlike Europe, Whirinaki is a forest essentially without Whirinaki Forest Promotion Trust, whose members seasons. There is never a time when the forest sheds included Sir Edmund Hillary, published a book, To its whole foliage and the floor is opened up to full Save a Forest, calling for an end to native logging in light, so the lower reaches of the forest are held in deep the Whirinaki. The sometimes-bitter conflict, with and permanent shade. The dense lowland forests of conservationists and loggers facing off, attracted Whirinaki are some of the best of their kind and the national and even international media attention. most visually superb remnants in New Zealand, with Eventually, in 1984, the conservationists won out and podocarps up to 65 metres tall (215 feet) and reaching the New Zealand Government created Whirinaki Forest 3 metres (10 feet) in diameter, with a density of 130 Park. Professor John podocarps per hectare. Morton, one of New The northern part of the forest, west of the Whirinaki Zealand’s greatest River, is relatively low country which rises from 360 m to conservationists, 730 m. There are beautiful river flats and rolling, tree- declared: “Whirinaki covered hills and gullies. The lowlands stand in stark Forest has no parallel of contrast to the steep rugged greywacke country in the its kind on Earth today”. south which rises to 1365 m at Maungataniwha.

8 9 Whirinaki Whirinaki short walks

10 11 2. Waiatiu Falls Track

Photo: David Finn Time: 1 hr 15 min An easy, well-graded track that Distance: 3.2 km passes through magnificent

Track: Walking podocarp forest. The falls are spectacular. Take your camera. Restrictions: Dogs by permit only

Access: from River Road car park

Photo: David Finn 3. Arohaki Lagoon Track 1. Whirinaki Waterfall Loop Track Time: 2 hr The track passes through Time: 3 hr 30 min The most popular track in Distance: 5.5 km impressive tawa/podocarp Distance: 11 km the park, this easy loop track Walking forest. The ephemeral (rain- follows the Whirinaki River Track: Track: Walking fed) lagoon is surrounded by through superb podocarp Restrictions: Dogs by towering kahikatea and is alive Restrictions: Dogs by forest with many excellent permit only with frogs, though it’s often permit only vantage points along the river. Access: from Lagoon car dry in the summer. Access: from River Road The waterfall can be heard park, just past River Road car park from some distance. Take your car park lunch to enjoy along the way – there are picnic tables and a toilet at the waterfall.

12 13 4. Sanctuary Track and Whirinaki Night Life Walk 6. Whirinaki Recreation Camp tracks Time: 1 hr Start across the footbridge from Distance: 2.3 km the Sanctuary Road car park. Whirinaki Recreation Camp outdoor recreation and education centre is ideal for schools and other Track: Walking The sanctuary protects a striking remnant of podocarp forest. The groups. There is a large grassy area around the Restrictions: Dogs by Whirinaki Night Life Walk can cabins for activities and several tracks nearby, permit only be walked night or day, but just including a mountain bike track. Access: from Sanctuary after dark is the best time to hear Road, off Minginui Road the night animals, such as ruru/ moreporks, wētā and kiwi, and 6a. Loop Track to river see glow-worms. 30 min Time: During summer Distance: 1 km an easy walk along

Track: Walking the Whirinaki River through native forest Restrictions: Dogs by permit only gives access to the river

Access: from the Recreation Camp for swimming.

6b. Wiremu Merito Reserve Track

Time: 1 hour A well-graded and Distance: 2 km 5. H-tree Track interpreted track Track: Walking through magnificent Time: 45 min This is an easy walk through podocarp forest. Distance: 2.2 km grand podocarp forest featuring Restrictions: Dogs by permit only Track: Wheelchair an unusually shaped rimu tree. Access: from the Recreation Camp accessible with The forest here is home to a assistance large population of native birds Restrictions: Dogs by including kākā and robins. Early 6c. Old Lookout Track permit only mornings or late afternoons are Time: 1 hour The easy walk starts Access: from Fort Road great for seeing and/or hearing Distance: 1.8 km across the road from the the birds. Extra activities on this track include a Treasure Track: Walking Recreation Camp and Map for kids and adults – find all the answers to the winds uphill to a former questions along the H-Tree track to discover some of Restrictions: Dogs by permit only lookout site. The forest Whirinaki’s treasures. The map is available online at Access: from the Recreation Camp is regenerating and www.doc.govt.nz/h-tree-track. trees have now blocked the view. 14 15 Multi-day adventures Multi-day

17 The Whirinaki Track 2 days, 1 night, 25.6 km

The Whirinaki Track is the premier Whirinaki experience. Following the Whirinaki River, walkers will move from beech forest to lowland podocarp forests with an overnight in Central Whirinaki Hut (25 bunks). As the highest standard tramping track in the park, it is relatively easy and suitable for people of low to moderate fitness levels. There are NZTopo50 map: five toilets along the track. BG38 Wairapukao

Day 1: Plateau Road end to Central Whirinaki Day 2: Central Whirinaki Hut to River Road end Hut Time: 5 hr From Central Whirinaki Hut continue on the Time: 3 hr Begin your walk at the Plateau Road end. Distance: Whirinaki Track north to Vern’s Camp. Vern’s Distance: After 1 hour of walking, cross the Caves swing 16 km has a shelter, toilet and is about 2 hours 30 9.6 km bridge. Keep an eye out for the massive cave Track: minutes or 8 km from Central, so it makes a Track: that gives this area its name. After the swing Easy great lunch stop. After lunch carry on down the Easy bridge carry on with the river on the left tramping river for another hour (3 km) to the Whirinaki tramping till you reach the next major bridge named Waterfall. The 200 metre detour to the falls Taumutu. From the Taumutu bridge carry on is well worth the time. Across the bridge till you reach Central Whirinaki Hut. This is about 100 m further on, you’ll find another the largest hut in the whole park and is an composting toilet and picnic tables. After ideal place for an overnight stay. Relax, cook visiting the falls, double back and follow the supper, and keep an eye out for whio/blue track with the river on your left side. Cross the ducks in the river near the hut. New Zealand Mangamate bridge and follow the track along forests come alive at dusk, look for pekapeka/ the river. After about 1 hour, cross the bridge long-tailed bats flying around the hut! over the beautiful Te Whāiti-Nui-a-Toi Canyon. From the canyon it is only a short walk further to the River Road car park. Keep an ear out for kākā/native parrots in the canopy above. Plateau Road end

Central Whirinaki Hut cave swing 25 bunks 800 m bridge Taumutu Te Whāiti- bridge Vern’s Camp Whirinaki Nui-a-Toi Waterfall River Road Canyon car park 600 m bridge Mangamate bridge 400 m

200 m

0 m 3 hr / 9.6 km 2 hr 30 min / 8 km 1 hr / 3 km 1 hr 30 min / 5 km Start Overnight End day 1 Mangamate Loop Track 3 days, 2 nights, 34.3 km

The Mangamate Loop Track is an ideal introduction to backcountry tramping. Day one is on a well- formed track of a high standard. However, the next two days transition onto unformed tracks where you will be constantly crossing the Mangamate Stream. River-crossing skills are required. The mix of track types make this loop great for building backcountry NZTopo50 map: tramping skills. BG38 Wairapukao

Day 1: River Road car park to Central Whirinaki Day 2: Central Whirinaki Hut to Mangamate Hut Hut Time: From Central Whirinaki Hut carry on along Time: 5 hr Begin at the River Road car park. After crossing 3 hr 45 min the Whirinaki River for 45 min (2 km), till you Distance: Te Whāiti-Nui-a-Toi Canyon bridge, keep Distance: reach Taumutu bridge. The track branches left 8.2 km 16 km the Whirinaki River on your right side and onto the Taumutu Stream and after around Track: Easy head south. After 1 hour (3.5 km), cross the Track: 1 km branches left again onto the Kakaiti Tramping tramping Mangamate bridge (you’ll end up back here Stream. From here the route is almost entirely on Day 3), and carry on past the Whirinaki in the stream. After about 2 hr, the track climbs Waterfall and up to Vern’s Campsite. With a sharply to Mangamate Hut (9 bunks) which is shelter and toilet, this is a good place to stop located high on a ridge. for lunch. From Vern’s it’s another 8 km to the first overnight stay at Central Whirinaki Hut. Day 3: Mangamate Hut to River Road car park Time: 4 hr The track travels steeply down from the hut Distance: where it now enters the Upper Mangamate There are multiple streams crossings on this track. 10.1 km Stream. From the hut it is 3 hr (6.6 km) down- Streams can become unsafe in high rainfall. If you are Track: stream to the Mangamate bridge. The track is unsure about crossing, return to the hut until the Tramping stream can be negotiated safely. in and out of the stream – expect 60+ stream crossings. At the Mangamate bridge the loop closes. With the Whirinaki River on your left, follow the track back to River Road car park. Taumutu bridge Mangamate Hut Te Whāiti-Nui- Central 9 bunks Te Whāiti-Nui- a-Toi Canyon Whirinaki Hut a-Toi Canyon 25 bunks Upper 800 m bridge Whirinaki Hut bridge Whirinaki Vern’s Camp turn-off Old River Road Waterfall River Road car park Mangamate car park Mangamate Hut site Mangamate bridge bridge

400 m

200 m

0 m 5 hr / 16 km 3 hr 45 min / 8.2 km 4 hr / 10.1 km Start Overnight Overnight End day 1 day 2 Moerangi Track 3 days, 2 nights, 35 km

This shared-use track includes an overnight stop at the historic Rogers Hut (Te Wairoa) and amazing views from the top of the Moerangi saddle (955 m). There are plenty of North Island brown kiwi in the Okahu valley so make sure you spend some time at night quietly listening for their piercing calls. NZTopo50 map: BG38 Wairapukao, This is a dual use track for walkers and mountain bikers. BG39 Ruatahuna

Day 2: Rogers Hut to Moerangi Hut

Time: 3 hr From Rogers it is an easy walk to the next

Distance: overnight destination: Moerangi Hut 9 km (9 bunks). Moerangi Hut is located about

Photo: Reg Quinn Track: Easy 500 m up a slight detour from the main track. tramping/ There are plenty of kiwi around the hut so Day 1: Okahu Road end to Rogers Hut shared use (Te Wairoa) listen for their shrill calls as night falls.

Time: Begin at the Okahu Road end; it’s 2 hr (7 km) 3 hr 30 min from there to Skips Hut (Whangatawhia). Day 3: Moerangi Hut to River Road car park Distance: From Skips the track climbs up over a 13 km saddle before tracking down to Rogers Hut Time: The final day of walking includes a big climb Track: Easy making for a total of 13 km on the first day. 4 hr 30 min over the Moerangi saddle. The saddle tops tramping/ Distance: shared use Rogers Hut (6 bunks) is one of the original out at 955 metres and has spectacular views deer culler huts in the Whirinaki and is 13 km of the Rangitaiki Plains far below. As the constructed of massive beech slabs and even Track: Easy track travels down from the saddle it enters tramping/ has a stained glass window! Keep an eye out shared use into lowland podocarp forest. Walk among for whio/blue ducks in the stream next to the giant trees until you end at the River Road the hut. car park.

Moerangi 1,000 m Moerangi saddle 6 bunks Okahu Skips Hut Rogers Hut Road end 9 bunks 6 bunks Whirinaki Loop Track River Road intersection 600 m car park

400 m

200 m

0 m 3 hr 30 min / 13 km 3 hr / 9 km 4 hr 30 min / 13 km Start Overnight Overnight End day 1 day 2 Te Pua-a-Tāne Circuit 5 days, 4 nights, 79.2 km

The Te Pua-a-Tāne Circuit is the ultimate Whirinaki challenge for the more adventurous. Traversing nearly 80 km around the park, trampers will experience the full range of the Whirinaki’s prehistoric forest. With

miles and miles of forest, no mobile coverage, and NZTopo50 map: rustic huts throughout, the circuit offers a perfect BG38 Wairapukao, escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. BG39 Ruatahuna, BH38 Te Haroto, Recommended for experienced trampers only. BH39 Putorino

Day 1: River Road car park to Central Whirinaki Hut

Time: 5 hr Begin at the River Road car park and travel

Distance: towards the Whirinaki Waterfall, then 16 km Vern’s Camp, and stay overnight at Central Track: Easy Whirinaki Hut. tramping Day 3: Upper Te Hoe Hut to Mangakahika Hut

Time: The track climbs about 300 m before Day 2: Central Whirinaki Hut to Upper 8 hr 30 min dropping down to the Te Hoe bluffs on the Te Hoe Hut Distance: way to Central Te Hoe Hut. Cross the Te Hoe 15 km Time: 8 hr From Central Whirinaki Hut continue south suspension bridge for a lunch break at Central 45 min along the Whirinaki River. The track will fork at Track: Te Hoe Hut – Whirinaki’s southernmost hut. Tramping Distance: the Taumutu bridge. Rather than crossing the After lunch, backtrack across the suspension 17.7 km bridge, keep left and follow the Taumutu Stream bridge and carry on north for 3 hr 30 min Track: to Upper Whirinaki Hut. From Upper Whirinaki (8.5 km) to Mangakahika Hut for night three. Tramping Hut it’s another 6 hr (11 km) to Upper Te Hoe Exposed section of track on Te Hoe Bluffs – Hut where you’ll stop for night two. use caution. Pukahunui Upper turn-off Upper 1,200 m Whirinaki Taumutu Te Hoe Hut Hut Mangakahika bridge 9 bunks Hut 1,000 m 9 bunks Central 9 bunks Whirinaki Hut Te Hoe 800 m 25 bunks Mangamate Bull Ring Vern’s bluffs Hut turn-off clearing Whirinaki Camp River Road Waterfall Mangakahika car park Saddle

Central 400 m Te Hoe Hut Mangamate turn-off bridge 200 m

0 m 5 hr / 16 km 8 hr 45 min/ 17.7 km 8 hr 30 min / 15 km Start Overnight Overnight Overnight End day 1 day 2 day 3 Do you know what ‘Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne’ means? Planning your trip Te Pua-a-Tāne means the abundance or the blossoming Track grades of Tāne. For Māori, Tāne is god of the forest and all the Tracks are developed to different standards to cater for creatures within the forest. As a variety of experiences. Choose the type of track that one of New Zealand’s greatest matches your skills, fitness and the experience you want – forests, Whirinaki represents Tāne’s domain in its fullest be realistic. Safety is your responsibility. and most abundant state. EASY ACCESS SHORT WALKS are for people of all abilities, including wheelchairs and strollers, on a well-formed track with an even surface, for up to an hour’s easy walking. Walking shoes required. Photo: Tāwari in flower. SHORT WALK TRACKS are well formed with an even surface for up to an hour’s easy walking, with few if any steps. Suitable for people of most abilities and fitness. Walking Day 4: Mangakahika Hut to Moerangi Hut shoes required.

Time: On day four the track climbs up over a WALKING TRACKS are mostly well-formed, reasonably easy 6 hr 30 min saddle before dropping down to Rogers extended walks for up to a full-day return. Major water courses are bridged and track entrances and junctions are Distance: Hut 3 hr 30 min (8.5 km). At Rogers take the signposted. Walking shoes or light tramping/hiking boots. 17.5 km track along the Moerangi Stream towards EASY TRAMPING TRACKS are comfortable multi-day Track: Easy Moerangi Hut. It’s another 3 hr (9 km) of easy tramping/hiking tracks. They are generally well formed, tramping walking from Rogers to Moerangi and night though some sections may be rough, muddy or steep. number four. Suitable for people with limited backcountry (remote area) experience. Light tramping/hiking boots required.

TRAMPING TRACKS are challenging day or multi-day Day 5: Moerangi Hut to River Road car park tramping. Tracks generally have an unformed surface, but with track directional markers, poles or cairns. Suitable Time: The final day is 4 hr 30 min (13 km) of walking for fit people with backcountry skills and experience. Tramping/hiking boots. 4 hr 30 min and a big climb up and over the Moerangi Distance: saddle (955 m). The track travels downhill from DUAL USE tracks are shared tracks used by walkers and 13 km the saddle into lowland podocarp forest. Finish mountain bikers. People heading uphill should give way to those heading down. Respect others, respect the rules, Track: Easy where you started at the River Road car park. respect the track. tramping

Track times/distances

Loop track One way Return Mangakahika Hut Moerangi Moerangi 9 bunks Rogers saddle Symbol key Hut Hut (Te Wairoa) 9 bunks 6 bunks Lodge/cabin/cottage Toilet Mangakahika River Road saddle car park 600 m Serviced hut Car park

400 m Standard hut Picnic shelter

200 m Basic campsite Heated shower

6 hr 30 min / 17.5 km 4 hr 30 min / 13 km Backcountry campsite Overnight Overnight End 27 day 3 day 4 Getting there Please ensure you have:

Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne Conservation Park is 90 km from Rotorua, off Te Whaiti Rd, via SH38. The most popular entrance to the park is past Minginui village and up River Road to the River Road car park, where many walks begin. ¯ 5 30 ROTORUA haatane Strong, comfortable boots Food and water m A first aid kit A good raincoat 5 30 Warm clothing (wool or A map polypropylene)

1 Murupara For tramping trips you will 5 need other items such as a gas cooker, plenty of food and Taupo Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne drink, a map and compass. Conservation Park All huts have rainwater

collection, and most tracks are near streams or rivers. Boil Know before you go water for 3 minutes before use Weather if you are unsure of the quality.

The weather in the park Dogs Your safety is your Check before you light a ﬁre – can be very unpredictable a ban may be in place responsibility Whirinaki supports high and visitors should be Leave your intentions with numbers of North Island brown prepared for cold, wet spells a trusted contact via the kiwi which are flightless and even in summer. Frosts and outdoor intentions on the have few to no defences against snow are also likely on high Mountain Safety website introduced predators. ground throughout the mountainsafety.org.nz and follow the steps below: year. High rainfall causes Dogs are allowed in Whirinaki by permit only. rivers in the area to rise  Plan your trip Contact your nearest DOC Office.  Tell someone before very quickly although they you go Guided walks usually fall rapidly once the  Check the weather A number of DOC-approved operators provide rain stops. You need to be  Know your limits guided walks in the Whirinaki – for a full list go to: well prepared for tramping  Take sufficient supplies. www.doc.govt.nz/whirinaki. and walking in the park.

For your safety For more information The maps in this brochure are a guide only and should not Pick up a copy of the ‘Huts and campsites’ and ‘Mountain biking’ be used for navigation. The appropriate NZTopo50 maps in Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne brochures, go to www.doc.govt.nz/ for these trips can be found on the relevant track page. whirinaki, or contact: Always contact the nearest DOC Visitor Centre or check DOC Whakatane Office Rotorua i-Site and Visitor Centre 1/100 Valley Road 1167 Fenton Street with Department of Conservation staff for the latest Whakatane, 3120 Rotorua information about tracks, facilities and conditions. Ph: +64 7 307 2770 Ph: +64 7 348 5179 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Murupara Rotorua Dual use Murumurunga Marae AD Te Whāiti Short walk O R I U Ngāpūtahi Walking track IN G IN Tramping track M Mid Okahu Campsite Sealed road 15 tent sites Old Fort car park Whirinaki Gravel road Recreation Camp

Mangamate Waterfall Multi-day adventures D D A A O O R The Whirinaki R Minginui Village Track (p 18) U H H D T A Ruatāhuna A U K Mangamate O Waikaremoana O O R Loop Track (p 20) S R E V Moerangi Track I (p 22) Wa R Sanctuary Campsite iatiu Stream 3 tent sites Te Pua-a-Tāne Arohaki Lagoon M Circuit (p 24) car park in g in River Road u i car park S tr Okahu Road end Managed by DOC and e * a the NZ Deerstalkers’ m D Association A O Whirinaki R

H Waterfall

S Vern’s Camp Skips Hut m 3 tent sites a e (Whangatawhia)* r t S 9 bunks

e t a

m a g n a

r M

e r v i e M R p o er i a p ngi S k trea U m a n i Rogers Hut (Te Wairoa) r i h 6 bunks

W Moerangi Hut Central 9 bunks Whirinaki Hut 25 bunks Mangamate m Ta Hut ea u tr m 9 bunks S u u tu h o S t K r e e T a m

Plateau Road end Upper Whirinaki Hut* 9 bunks Mangakahika Hut* 9 bunks

W P h I i N r in E a k M Upper Te Hoe Hut* i I R i 9 bunks L v L e IN r G R O A D

Te H H o a e u R t a iv p er u 0 2.5 5 km R Central Te Hoe Hut* iv 30 e 15 bunks 31 r Pukahunui Road end