NOV/DEC 2016 The best Advent in Europe Once there was before the Zagreb Advent ... the rest is history, because this year the city plans to live up to its last year’s title of the best European Christmas destination. We’re in for 40 days of fun sprawled from the Upper Town to , with new exciting events like the 3D fairytale in the Grič tunnel, Fashion Advent in Oktogon and the winter edition of the Courtyards. Get our pick or look for the full program at www.adventzagreb.com. INSTAGRAM*

ADVENT LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY Photo: Mateo Tomislav Klarić

* Zagreb was more commonly known outside by its Austrian German exonym Agram

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TALKABOUT Zagreb's great green connection FIRST DAVIS CUP FINALS Zagreb's Green Horseshoe is a visionary project that connects seven are on at Arena Nov city parks into a peaceful promenade. This over-a-century-old layout 25–27 but the tickets was only recently made complete with the final missing link – the MINUTE have long been sold lovers’ bridge. Now there are no gaps all the way from Zrinjevac park to the Croatian National Theater. Starčević square by the Esplanade Take the coolest out. Argentinians will hotel leads to the inventory of Zagreb play against Marin Botanical Garden Nikola Šubić Čilić and two other via the new Zrinski Square The best way to get the full Zagreb aces - rising adrenaline park Marshall view of the city is to visit star Borna Ćorić and and the Tito Square the Zagreb Eye, a wonder- Croatia’s oldest ATP footbridge hung Josip Juraj ful observatory-cum-ca- winner Ivo Karlović. over Miramarska Ivan Strossmayer fe on the 16th floor with Losing is not an op- street dubbed Mažuranić Square stunning vistas to all the Lovers’ Square tion. @daviscup.com major sights. Housed in Bridge. A King must-see for Marko the landmark 1950s high- Marulić Tomislav RUSSIAN MAFIA every tourist and rise on the Jelačić square, Square Square in Zagreb? It’s a invitation for this place will make you BBC-produced doc- Zagreb locals to Botanical Adrenaline connect with Zagreb in a umentary based on rediscover their garden Park Dr. Ante refreshing way, especially Misha Glenny’s book city’s green oasis. The Lovers’ Bridge Starčević at night. Open daily 10am- McMafia featuring Square 12pm; entry: 20KN. Dverce palace as the mafia headquarters and Mirogoj as the Moscow cemetery. WORD The doc is being shot until December. to the Upper Town Zima #McMafia and Tuškanac via their RESIDENTS of neighborhood. To the (Zee-mah) the newly restored elderly, the bus is a Winter, Hiver, Radićeva street are necessity; to the shop- Invierno, Inverno signing petitions and keepers, the noise, bickering over the bus fumes and crowds are line 150, which goes too much. 冬, 겨울, 冬季 Zagreb abounds with squares but Ana Rukavina square is among the rare ones named after WHAT ordinary people. MONOVIEW WHERE Advent turned Zagreb WHEN into a hit destination GET SOME ZAGREB ULTRA brings some of ROMAN JEWELS ON world’s best DJs for the An exhibit of limited col- ZAGREB weeklong Croatia Winter lection jewelery Elkana SUPERHEROES Music Festival. The line- by Feđa Aaron Bučić, up includes Armin Van Where East Meets West, A heroine whose Buuren, Sander Van Dorn, struggle still saves lives will be on at Palace Ho- Just shy of 30, journalist Ana Ru- MOTi, Julian Jordan, tel from Dec 1–23. Craft- kavina died of leukemia. She made it David Gravell, Juicy M... ed with ancient Roman her mission to write about her illness ZAGREB 360° NEW YEAR’S EVE is glass found in Israel, openly so that others could be saved Nikola Bušljeta, the biggest New Year’s with stem cells transplants. After her Ultra Festival Elkana jewelry offers director. Zagreb Party in this part of history you can wear. death, the much needed cord blood bank was founded and named after Ultra is the Europe. We’re expecting The unique pieces are her. Ten years on, a Zagreb square in biggest New 20,000 visitors from Cro- made with gold, silver, Ana’s neighborhood of Trnsko will Year’s party in this atia and abroad, especial- semi-precious stones, carry the name of this heroine. Laid part of Europe ly because this is Armin wool and ancient glass. out as a children’s playground and a Van Buuren’s first time in More at @elkana.hr. place of happiness and solidarity, Ana Zagreb and he is known Rukavina square echoes her biggest desire ‘I want life.’ It also reminds ZAGREB NEEDS for surprising fans with us that stem cell donors are able to unexpected music sets. give life, if not to her, then to others MORE ALL-DAY WHEN I GO OUT IN THE EVENING I struggling with leukemia. PLACES WHERE usually go for a bite to eat so you can often catch me YOU CAN HAVE at Lido restaurant on the COFFEE IN THE lake. MORNING AND TO FOREIGN TRAVELERS I always recommend traditional HIT THE DANCE restaurants. In the FLOOR AT NIGHT summer I take them to ZAGREB FALL the coast and during IS FOR CINEPHILES ANJA MUTIĆ wintertime, for Advent in 14th Festival Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for Zagreb and up the Sljeme (Nov 12–20) always de- New York Magazine and The Washington hilltop for a bowl of beans. livers a fantastic line-up Post. Follow her at @everthenomad I TAKE MY FRIENDS to La Bo- of screenings. This year, dega. It’s a wine bar with a great choice of over 100 titles will glue food but it also has a good music program. you to the seat of Za- Winter It’s a place both for the morning coffee greb’s best movie ven- and a night out. ues: Europa, Tuškanac thrills ZAGREB WINTER is getting richer with events. and Museum of Contem- The Advent program has turned Zagreb porary Art. Check out carves and sweaters are into a tourist hit. But for the destination the fun program of East- Sback. And so are sunny days to keep growing, we need to attract ern European comedies, of chill, when the sun shows younger urban travelers. It’s exactly international co-produc- teeth, as we say in Croatian, what we do with Croatia Winter Music tions and a series of ed- and lets us know it’s about to Festival. ucational workshops and go underground for some time. panel discussions. Full Mornings get cold and foggy, HIDDEN ZAGREB program at @zff.hr moods change too. It’s the time MARVEL SUPERHEROES of shifting gears. COME ALIVE here’s also that thrill lead- Zagreb cafe with The spectacular Marvel Ting up to Christmas. The 100,000 free books Universe Live show de- anticipation of the stalls going livers perfect fun for the up at Zrinjevac, the slow sipping lthough one of the unwritten rules of whole family. Hurry to of mulled wine to keep you Athe Zagreb cafe culture is to be accom- Zagreb’s Arena Decem- warm, the munching on roasted panied by friends and not books, the winds ber 9–11 and meet your chestnuts, the milling through have just changed in an unexpectedly cool superheroes – Spider- bundled-up crowds promenad- way. Zagreb’s cult cafe Velvet became the man, Ironman, Hulk, Thor ing around the snow-cloaked first Free Reading Zone (FREZ) in Croatia. & the Gang – live. Your city... The joy of choosing from Now when you sit down for coffee, you can chance to learn a few so many fun events you just use the FREZ app via the free Velvet code tricks as they show off don’t know which one to catch. and read through more than 100,000 books. their super skills: martial All that, just around the corner. FREZ project is an open-access virtual arts, acrobatics and all ut it’s only recently that library whose collection includes titles kinds of special effects. BZagreb took to the streets ranging from fiction, poetry, travelogues, @zagrebarena.hr come wintertime. From an cookbooks and more. This fab limit-free introvert, it has come opportunity to read and download books outside, with layers on but while physically in the FREZone could out there, in the snow, rain make us a bit antisocial. But a book is a or shine. It’s now, hands down, great companion too, and free education a an all-year city. worthwhile cause.

GET TO KNOW ZAGREB’S JOGGING SCENE For all of you adventure fans, an exciting way to explore Zagreb has arrived – a guided jog through the city’s nicest areas. The Must See is a 7K (40 min) trail that gets you up and running daily from 7am and 9am. Other routes are available which accommodate less or more fit runners. Price: 266KN per person; start point: Jelačić square by the Manduševac fountain. @runzagreb.com ADVENT IN ZAGREB 40 days of top-notch fun across the city ast year Zagreb was named European Best Christ- ICE PARK oyster as you dig into Lmas destination. Even those who never visited King Tomislav Square, Nov international food stalls and Croatia’s capital couldn’t resist the unanimous raving 26–Jan 8 browse unique knick-knacks review by the international press: ‘Forget Vienna and The open-air ice rink on and souvenirs. Tomislav Square brings UPPER TOWN Prague, head to Zagreb for Christmas.’ The Advent in another round of frozen fun. COURTYARDS Zagreb is an across-the-city festival with hundreds Put your skates on, enjoy the Dec 3–23 of listings coming together in a unique festive atmo- glide and feast on Opening up the courtyards of sphere. The city buzzes with cheer and piety as people refreshments from the Upper Town palaces take to the streets, enjoying the crisp evening air. surrounding stalls. during summer became an ADVENT ON ZRINJEVAC instant hit. That’s why the This year, Zagreb Advent promises even more fun at Nov 26–Jan 8 Advent edition rolls out at even more locations. Two hit summer events at the An eternal symbol of Zagreb, these four locations: Upper Town get their Advent editions: The Courtyards Zrinjevac park gets an Demetrova 1 and 11, and and the Advent on Stross. Festivities will cross the ethereal flair for Christmas: Opatička 10 and 20. Prepare River at the Museum of Contemporary Art and Zagreb blue lights on plane trees to be wowed. Fair. The celebrated Design District festival joins in that surround the old music ADVENT IN THE TUNNEL pavilion. Waltz away, snag a Dive into the newly opened and, last but not least, kids get a few locations just for souvenir and spice it up with Grič Tunnel for a very their own fun. @adventzagreb.com great traditional grub. different Christmas Carol: 3D

Photo: Davor Rostuhar/TZGZ ADVENT installations on the ceiling, ON EUROPEAN SQUARE video projections and music Nov 26–Jan 8 reverberating against the This must-see location for city’s most mysterious walls. the young urban crowd ADVENT FOR KIDS throws up a host of concerts, Get the little ones to the attractions and exhibitions. Vranicani field (No 27–Dec 31) Grab a sausage and mulled so they can mingle with the wine and sway to the beat. mythical creatures from the FOOLING AROUND famous fairytales by Ivana Tomićeva and Kurelčeva Brlić Mažuranić. A special streets, Nov 26–Jan 8 kiddy Advent At Rudolf’s is It’s time to loosen up and also on at Strossmayer Square adopt the ‘fooling around’ (Nov 26–Jan 8) while Zagreb outlook. The best thing at Fair hosts Santa Claus Ice this fest: the world is your Fairytale (Dec 1–31).

Whale and QuiZG A day with Turtle are grand 1 If the Sun has landed in street art anamorphic murals, Bogovićeva, on which street can visible in full only from one angle, you find Earth in the Zagreb ANDREA PISAC Solar System? LONAC’S FOLLOW- painted by the a) Preradovićeva ERS can’t wait for his French artist Etien. Global anthropologist and Zagreb writer with a twist. Follow her at b) Varšavska next mural to show They happily swim @travelhonestly.com c) Gajeva up in Medika or at the on the Upper Town’s Student Center. Among Gradec plateau, to Honestly, check 2 How many times has Dinamo the most monumental the delight of all played in the Champions League? is Blast from the Past, a visitors. into Zagreb's a) Three giant owl woman (SC) b) Four featuring his exquisite four seasons c) Five hyperrealistic tech- 3 How many steps are there to nique. ver since Croatia became the the top of the Zagrepčanka Edarling of global tourism, we’ve building? been measuring up our next hurdle: a) 512 OKO is known for leaving how to entice travelers to visit us b) 501 tiny signatures on city c) 490 facades in the form of even when it’s cold, wet and foggy. mythical creatures. Totally With its rich, year-round cultural BONUS QUESTION opposite and grandiose is program, Zagreb fairs much better Zagreb mummy, wrapped in the Open My Eyes That I May Croatian Scien- oldest Etruscan manuscript than the sun-kissed but short-lived See her mural on the Muse- tists are brought to coast. Yet, we always end up bitching called the Linen Book of Zagreb, um of Contemporary Art’s life on large murals about the weather. November is dates from which year? western facade. in a garden below a) 490 BC the Gradec Plateau glum, December is cold, January b) 390 BC by Croatia’s street is when the snow melts. Instead of c) 290 BC art pioneers Bare mooning over the dramatic change of ANSWERS and Modul. seasons, we strongarm life alfresco at 1 b, Earth is located in Varšavska 9, heated terraces. 194 meters from the Sun, which is Lunar breaks the reciprocal to the actual distance; , But I say it’s OK for the ruddy leaves 2 c boundary between Dinamo plays in the Champions to fall off – go walking in the outdoor and the League for the fifth time;3 a, 512 indoor and takes his and marvel at how they crunch un- steps, which is why the traditional der your feet. A foggy day is perfect race to the top is called City Waterfall flows picturesque geo- Zagrepčanka512; for security reasons, down the building facade metric shapes into to raid the street food vendors and the race finishes on the penultimate in Petrinjska 40. Painted by the public garage on warm your hands on mellow roast floor, at step 490;Bonus b, Zagreb Miron Milić, this stunning Lang Square so that chestnuts. When it rains, snuggle mummy and the Linen Book of mural symbolizes an oasis your car enjoy some in the rustic Pod Starim Krovovima Zagreb have been in the of peace and serenity in the street art, too. Archeological Museum since 1862 urban hustle and bustle. cafe or explore the great Zagreb in- and date from 390 BC. doors, like the State Archives library. Come snow, put on your woolly socks and go sledging on the Cmrok mead- hectares is ow. There, you’ve just checked into how much 7 space the 790 1901 the glorious Zagreb four seasons. covers, thousand and 17 is the exact is the year Zagreb got the first Tip: On a glum day, hike to the Sl- including the number of inhabitants in Zagreb taxi; there are 1500 taxis today jeme hilltop to get above the clouds lakes according to the last census plus Uber, which arrived in 2015 – say hello to sunshine. COOL TURE ALEX CREVAR NIGHT OF THE Travel writer from the United States. His work has appeared in The New York THEATER is a perfect Times, National Geographic Traveler and occasion to catch a Outside magazine @AlexCrevar multiple bill in various theaters across town. So get ready: it’s Lights, a Saturday night, November 19. More about this Europe- camera, wide program at @noc-kazalista.com action FIL(M)HARMONIJA is a must for every inter is coming. Most of the cinephile: the Wleaves are gone from the trees screening of silent outside my window. Braziers are movie classics roasting chestnuts on corners. Big accompanied by the woolly sweaters and boots have Zagreb Philharmonic. replaced shorts and flip-flops. But far Head to the Europa from depressing, this is the best time cinema and catch to be in Zagreb. Chaplin’s A Dog’s Life I moved back here for the first time in and The Idle Class on three years this fall. I was instantly at December 21 at 6pm ease. I fell into the rhythm of walking and 8pm. across and onto Cvjetni Trg @kinoeuropa.hr for coffee. I was again shopping for GIACOMETTI’S vegetables and fruit at Dolac. And my Walking Man, one of first text to a friend: “I’ll meet you at world’s most expensive the clock.” sculptures, currently hy was I comfortable so quick- resides in the Art Wly? For me, the most redeeming Pavilion. Catch it in the quality a city can have is the ability company of Woman of to play a supporting role in my life’s Venice and other ‘thin production. I am not looking for the people’ until January city to be the star. I don’t want to 8. @umjetnicki- adopt New York’s energy. I don’t want paviljon.hr to play second fiddle to Paris. I am not going to sacrifice my time sitting in Los Angeles traffic. Zagreb is the perfect supporting actor. It is a place that makes YOU better on stage. It is easy. It invites coffee meetings and long lunches and Saturday mornings on a terrace fighting a hangover with the sun on your face. ow the stage is set for Zagreb’s Nbest season: winter. Kiosks sell kuhano vino under strings of blue Christmas lights with the smell of kobasice filling the air. I’m waiting for my cue as the curtain rises.

NEW IN TOWN Favorite Zagreb ZGBLOG café takes off to A DAILY DOSE OF JUST ZAGREB new heights If you want to fill up Since it cropped up in the middle daily on all things of Britanac square a few years ago, Zagreb, check out Kava Tava became the locals’ go-to Just Zagreb, a website café. It was their all-day break- dedicated to travelers fast concept and weekend cultural and city dwellers alike. program that made this place into a Their ‘Don’t miss’ and neighborhood sight. When the local ‘City for’ sections de- authorities closed down their prefab liver excellent features hut, Kava Tava struck back and now about curious charac- sprawls over 400 m2 just around ters or lesser-known the corner. In this grand space still cultural events that featuring the signature black and could add extra spice red colors, a fab novelty stands to your time in Zagreb. out – the onsite plane cabin that The accommodation turns into a cinema slated to screen reviews will also help foodie documentaries. So get ready with deciding on where for the same café to take you to new to stay. justzagreb.com heights. #kavatava YELLOW PAGE

Dog parks

* There is a 600-1000KN fine for off-leash walking and/or not scooping up. Dog order is soon to be overseen by special supers, as well Ravnice - as the dog DNA registry. Maksimir

Špansko - Oranice The dog relief in Bogovićeva is a monument to Pluto, a stray who took to the Oktogon passage construction workers in the 19th century. He bravely guarded the site until his last breath. Vrbani Jarun

Utrine Trnsko Not at all a dog’s life for Zagreb’s dogs With over 70,000 resident dogs a few bakeries with special and 50,000 of them registered dog treats. The only thing as pets, Zagreb is a proper fido missing is a dog beach, so capital. Though ten+ dog parks the owners smuggle them in are scattered across the city, the to the Jarun lake. Now the center remains the only neighbor- dog ban has been lifted! hood where pups have to go for a walk in non-designated areas. This aside, canine chums can’t TIPS&TRICKS complain: there are 50+ vets, 40 pet shops, 15 pet hotels, and a ZAGREB TAXI HELP no-kill dog asylum in Dumovec. Furries can even ride a (big +385 1 1717 112 ones need a ticket) and sniff out EXCHANGE RATES, (BUY RATE, NOVEMBER 11 2016) € 1 7,49; $ 1 6,72; JPY 100 6,49 Go with the flow in GET TIED UP Karlovac Croatia is the homeland of the N tie (cravat). Buy this original Croatian product in Croata Karlovac town just salons, located at Kaptol 13 launched a superb and Ilica 5 (inside the Oktogon attraction that will passageway). delight all nature 45 min lovers. Aquatica, from Zagreb FOR RAINY DAYS... The Šestine umbrella is one of the impressive Zagreb’s most recognizable souve- freshwater nirs. Grab yours at one of the aquarium, is a stunning tribute to souvenir shops on Bakačeva the town’s four rivers and their street, below the Cathedral. flora and fauna. 100 fish species FIVE MINUTES TO TAXI and 5000 live specimens are on Zagreb taxis usually arrive within display in meandering aquariums five minutes from making a call. that imitate the flow of a karst That is, if you manage to get river. Mix the water experience through during rush hour. Calls are with a walk along serene paths to charged but you can keep the dri- the town center. ver waiting for up to five minutes for free. @aquariumkarlovac.com THE MOST USEFUL CARD Tip: Karlovac is a famous beer With Zagreb Card tourists get free town so don’t leave without transport and ticket discounts for trying the recent craft more than 150 locations. Daily card is 60KN, a three-day card brew, Karlovačko is 90KN. A ride Retro. on the funicular is included.

The coolest, healthiest and most affordable !

FREE VOUCHER FOR ADDITIONAL 30 MINUTES OF FREE BIKE RIDES EVERY DAY PLEASE SEND THE CODE BIKE SHARING SYSTEM ZG4YOU TO [email protected]

Register at www.nextbike.hr for only HRK79, sit and ride! N MOUNTAIN FOR HIKERS AND FOODIES LAST Zagreb and Medvednica mountain are one. When a Zagreb local spots the Sljeme peak MINUTE from afar, they know home is close. And although its woods now provide leisure rather than sustenance, Medvednica still holds power over Zagreb’s people. It’s where we take our first Take back hiking and skiing steps, where we meet friends for delicious home-cooked food and from where we admire the vista of our city. So let’s hit the trails and finish with a hearty lunch (make a cupful of sure to take cash!). 957 m wisdom Vidikovac has one of the 1033 m Puntijarka is the biggest most unique locations. The 830 m mountain hut on If Zagreb is your last stop view from here reaches even Medvednica. Open every before the new academic to Zagorje on the other side day, it’s a hikers’ go-to, famous for the best roast year begins, spend a qui- of Medvednica. Enjoy it over a 864 m dish of štrukli. Sljemenska turkey with mlinci. et moment by the statue 529 m street of Marko Marulić, the fa- Runolist is known for the ther of Croatian literature Grafičar is said to liven up Former best panoramic view of even the most somber of days. funicular Zagreb. Slump at the terrace and psychology. Steeped Snuggle up by the furnace Tunnel with Velebitsko beer and in contemplation, this gi- inside, enjoy frequent live make sure to order their fab ant humanist guards the music and fill up on beans and home-baked bread. sausage. gorgeous State Archives building decorated with Kraljičin Zdenac is only a Final tram stop 40-minute hike away – an ideal four owl gargoyles. Take choice for slower hikers who can still a breath and let ageless enjoy the fresh air and tasty grub, 30 min by wisdom rub off of you. like home-made sausages. tram Maksimirska street Bologna Av Ban Jelačić Ilica Square 4am A WEEKLONG NEW YEAR’S PARTY If New Year’s parties are so much fun, why not make them last a week? We did. Check out Croa- tian Music Week Festival on Dec 31–Jan 6 at the Zagreb Arena. This is a brand-new offshoot of the Ultra Europe Festival which promises a spec- tacular weeklong New Year’s fun. Sponsored by the swish New Year’s Eve 360 production, this Selfie with the Zagreb Turtlemuch? super cool event has an hat’s the business of a whale and a turtle in Zagreb? They pose for selfies. even cooler afterparty on WIt seems like a joke but these two giants immortalized as murals on the Jan 1, the Nye Replay. Gradec plateau are a real catnip for tourists and locals alike. The French street + artist Etien used the anamorphosis technique to achieve a cool 3D effect. This ALCATRAZ won his Whale the title of one of the world’s best murals ever. Who knows what FOR EVERYONE we can expect on the shores of Zagreb next year... Kick off at the Budha Con- fusion bar with a line of most common spices beers (500+types), then Zagreb’s TASTE OF ZAGREB are cloves and cinna- move down a level to the underpasses get a powered by mon, while enthusiasts cult Alcatraz for the mid- new lease of life When Taste of Croatia also add slices of orange night fun. Make sure to fill Zagreb sprawled out via or lemon. As simple as up on food beforehand at newly built avenues, pedes- the preparation may All Saints restaurant, two trians were also looked after Mulled wine - sound, it takes a lot of levels up. All you need by getting underpasses. winter fuel experience to achieve is at the same address - Unfortunately, they have t warms you, lifts you the delicate balance of Tkalčićeva 15. turned into dark, rain-flood- up and spices the mood sweetness, sourness, ed and vandalized passag- I – no wonder mulled fruitiness and spiciness. es, which is why the city wine is Zagreb’s favorite It always tastes better MORE INFO has scheduled to recon- winter drink, luring you when it’s prepared in struct the Borongaj and with its sweet smell from a big container than Podsused underpass- street stands and bars. straight in the glass. es and those on the In Croatia, both red and When you find that per- Dubrovnik and white are now used, but fect cup of , Držić avenues, all kuhano vino it’s crucial that the wine that’s real wintertime in 2017. is of good quality, not magic. some plonk. Along with Kcal (2dcl): 300 28 a few spoonfuls of sugar, Price: 10–15kn underpasses are APPS being fitted with CCTV cameras to Don't waste paper. Use it or . . . stop their further vandalization. Meet in Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb be There Places