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LONG WAVE SURGE Understanding Infragravity Wave Energy in Ports

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LONG WAVE SURGE Understanding Infragravity Wave Energy in Ports LONG WAVE SURGE Understanding infragravity wave energy in ports Peter McComb Long period waves and harbour surges § What is the problem? § What is causing it? § What can we do about it? www.metocean.co.nz The problem 6 degrees of freedom www.metocean.co.nzwww.metocean.co.nz Long period waves (LPW) Red = inside harbour Blue = outside harbour Water level oscillations with periods of greater than swell but less than tides. Typically 25 – 1200 seconds with small amplitude. seiche § Bound long waves – tied to the wave group structure but can be released at the coast § Free long waves § Surf beat – long wave energy released in the surf zone FIG IG swell sea long waves www.metocean.co.nz Discovering LPW Infra-gravity 25-120s Total Far Infra-gravity 120-150+s Tide removed Wave group modulation (sets) Sea / Swell removed IG – often modulated by tide FIG – not modulated by tide www.metocean.co.nz Wave groups L h 1 1 2 E p = rgz.dz.dx = rgH Energy flux L òò 16 0 0 1 2 Et = E p + Ek = rgH 1 L h 1 1 8 E = r w2 + u 2 .dz.dx = rgH 2 k ò ò ( ) L 0 -h 2 16 www.metocean.co.nz IG and FIG waves Infra-gravity 25-120s IG Far Infra-gravity 120-150+s FIG 0.1 0.1 0.08 0.09 0.06 0.08 0.04 0.07 FIG waves are created by the modulation of wave energy 0.02 0.06 0 0.05 -0.02 0.04 into ‘sets’, which is beneficial for surfing. FIG waves have -0.04 0.03 G Stdev (m) FIG water level (m) FIG water -0.06 0.02 -0.08 0.01 the same period as the set frequency. -0.1 0 82 82.05 82.1 82.15 82.2 82.25 82.3 Julian Day 2003 Time-series correlation of FIG to wave groups www.metocean.co.nz Generation of LPW IG and FIG waves are linked to the incident swell § Generated by swell wave groupings IG waves: § Highly correlated to swell wave energy flux § Are released in the surf zone § Released as swell waves transform from ~20 misobath § Decay with distance offshore § Propagate freely to refract and reflect § Have a broad range of periods (centre 40-50s) § Not always co-linear with swell wave direction § Often modulated by tide § Broad range of frequencies but typically <150s period § Correlate to Hs (T>8s)a x Tpb FIG waves: § Can resonate inside a harbour § Initially bound to the wave group § Found in long-period wave climates § No decay in ~20 m depth range § No tidal modulation, highly variable periods § Correlate to Hs (T>8s)a x Swb www.metocean.co.nz LPW and seiche Red = inside harbour Blue = outside harbour LPW SWELL Port Taranaki www.metocean.co.nz ConsiderLPW nodes sampling and anti-nodes: strategies node Consider nodes and anti-nodes: anti-node In a complex location one measurement site may not be enough www.metocean.co.nz ConsiderLPW nodes sampling and anti-nodes: strategies www.metocean.co.nz Measured spectra inside the harbour www.metocean.co.nz Measured spectra www.metocean.co.nz Measured spectra www.metocean.co.nz Measured spectra www.metocean.co.nz Measured spectra www.metocean.co.nz Measured spectra www.metocean.co.nz Measured spectra www.metocean.co.nz Measured spectra outside the harbour Mean spectra Energetic event www.metocean.co.nz Summary of our observations § Ports open to an adjacent beach / reef are the best collectors of IG. § Mean efficiency is 6-9%, but the tidal modulation creates different responses and outcomes § IG waves are modulated in the surf zone, non-linear transfer from IG back to swell. § Profile of the shallow subtidal zone defines the modulation by tide (Thomson, 2006). Steep beach and narrow surf zone – little modulation. § IG waves can be hindcast / forecast with onsite data to calibrate. § To model IG waves into the harbour – need to know the IG direction. § Broad spectrum outside the harbour www.metocean.co.nz Modelling LPW Boussinesq model (Kirby, 1995) § refraction/diffraction Reflection Wave breaking § reflection § wave breaking Refraction § non linear energy transfers § turbulent mixing effects § bottom friction effects Diffraction Modified version used § wave conditions from directional wave spectrum § run-up scheme added Sea-Swell waves § internal fully reflective boundaries www.metocean.co.nz Modelling LPW (IG) (MW) Open circles: low tide Open circles: low tide Solid circles: high tide Solid circles: high tide www.metocean.co.nz Modelling LPW Measured (low tide) LPWhigh tide > LPWlow tide Measured (high tide) Modelled (high tide) Modelled (low tide) Modelled (low tide) Modelled (high tide) (Eastland Port) (Port Taranaki) (MW position) www.metocean.co.nz LPW directionality Eastland Port Port Taranaki Two energetic modes in the Large amount of LPW energy south-west and west directions coming from North-West High LPW energy level One low energetic single mode in the northeast direction Access channel oriented south- west Access channel oriented north- east Problematic conditions for Solution for improvements improving LPW tranquillity www.metocean.co.nz LPW are complex …….. www.metocean.co.nz LPW are complex …….. www.metocean.co.nz LPW are complex …….. Low freq LPW (>75 s) High freq LPW (>75 s) www.metocean.co.nz 2D LPW spectra along the berth ABC GHI Surface elevation Gradient! Surface elevation Gradient! Cross velocity Cross velocity component component Along velocity Along velocity component component à mooring line forces and induced vessel motion? Strong movement along 3 axis!!! www.metocean.co.nz Harbour design solutions testing LPW Sea-Swell www.metocean.co.nz LPW summary Total water level (m) 15 14 13 § LPW fields are spatially complex and they change with the tide and swell Depth(m) 12 conditions. 11 Data processing steps processing Data 10 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 § The combination of harbour and adjacent coast geometry is important. Time (hours) § LPW usually cant be seen - need to be measured and modelled. Total infragravity water level variations (m) 0.1 § Each berth often has a unique LPW climate, and there may be gradients in energy 0.05 over vessel length scales. 0 Height(m) § Each vessel and mooring configuration has a unique response to LPW -0.05 -0.1 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 § The incident LPW have a broad spectrum.. Time (hours) What can we do about it? IG w ater level variations (m) 0.05 1) Reduce LPW penetration 0.025 0 2) Dampen the vessel motion -0.025 3) Manage the onset of problematic occasions -0.05 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Time (hours) www.metocean.co.nz LPW prediction methods 0.25 B measured IG B modelled 0.20 0.15 0.10 IG wave height (m) § Local water level measurements (1 or 2 Hz) 0.05 0.00 240 250 260 270 280 290 300 § Hindcast the incident wave spectra Julian day 2003 0.5 § Multi-variate analysis to correlate spectral estimates with zero- Hz 3 TG Fig modelled 0.4 crossing IG & FIG data 0.3 FIG 0.2 § Include tide in the MVA 0.1 0 195 205 215 225 235 245 255 265 A 3-stage nested domain is typical www.metocean.co.nz Correlation to offshore (hindcast) short wave spectra BIAS (m) 0.01 RMSE 0.31 MAE (m) 0.24 MRAE 0.14 SI 0.16 www.metocean.co.nz Correlation to offshore short wave spectra www.metocean.co.nz Correlation to offshore short wave spectra 25-70 s 70-120 s www.metocean.co.nz Spectral wave forecasts used to predict LPW for specific berths § 1-3 months berth LPW data required for calibration § Warning levels can be provided § Forecast accuracy is similar to swell (5-7 days) § Semi-empirical technique § Includes tidal modulation Comparison of measured and forecast LPW www.metocean.co.nz This works well ….. Generic LPW safety thresholds: <0.10 m – not usually a problem 0.10 m – first threshold of concern 0.10-0.15 m – management is recommended 0.15-0.20 m – management is required >0.20 m – safety is compromised 7-day forecast of LPW www.metocean.co.nz LPW monitoring in real time Long waves at Port Geraldton www.metocean.co.nz Gracias por tu tiempo Operational Oceanography MetOcean Solutions Ltd | PO Box 441 | New Plymouth | New Zealand www.metocean.co.nz.
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