$7 • SPRING 2017 • A QUARTERLY PUBLICATION FROM THE SOUTHERN FOODWAYS ALLIANCE MEXICAN DIASPORAS PAGE 9 MEET THE BIRMINGHAM GREEKS PAGE 55 VIEW FROM NASHVILLE’S TREEHOUSE PAGE 65 Gravy is a publication of the Southern Foodways Alliance, a member-supported institute of the Center for the Study of Southern Culture at the University of Mississippi. EDITOR-IN-CHIEF PUBLISHER John T. Edge Mary Beth Lasseter
[email protected] 2
[email protected] HELPINGS GUEST EDITOR 6 ASSOCIATERULES OF EDITOR ENGAGEMENT ISSUEJennifer V. Cole NO. 63 OsayiMichael Endolyn Twitty SPRING 2017
[email protected] DESIGNER 9 MORE THAN MERE MEXICANS Richie Swann GRAVYGustavo PRINT Arellano FACT CHECKER
[email protected] Katie King 13 BOTTOM OF THE POT John T. Edge 32 18 MOBILE’S MODERN SOUL NOWRUZ: Julia Bainbridge REBIRTH, RENEWAL, AND REPAST 21 THE VALUE OF SOUTHERN FOOD Philip Malkus Kat Kinsman 24 FAMILY RECIPES 39 Photos by Celestia Morgan NORTHWARD BOUND 55 THE BIRMINGHAM GREEKS Devita Davison Oral History THE MISSION of the Southern Foodways62 TORTAS Alliance IN is toTUSCALOOSA document, study, and explore46 the diverse food cultures Calebof the changingJohnson American South. NOTHING GREEN BUTOur THE work PLATES sets a welcome table65 whereVIEW all may FROM consider THE our TREEHOUSE history David Hagedornand our future in a spirit of respectJohn andKessler reconciliation. SFA membership is open72 toVIRGINIA’S all. Not a member? DARE Join us at southernfoodways.orgHanna Raskin Cover photo by
[email protected] L. KASIMU HARRIS 662-915-336879 REBEL RECIPE Erika Council L. Harris Kasimu southernfoodways.org 1 FEATURED CONTRIBUTOR pursuing illustration more seriously, I GRAVY #63 SPRING 2017 found that combining photo pieces with my drawings lent a sense of humor and levity to my work, and for the fi rst time I really NATALIE NELSON connected with the pieces I was making.