Fine Association OF 1 2 3 It’s not just aszú that makes unique. As the world’s as a district is characterized by a rich diversity Tokaj - first closed wine region since the 18th century, no history Eger - of varieties. There is no single red or white grape variety of wine can be complete without acknowledging Tokaj’s that could be considered dominant either in terms of the world’s first role and significance. In 1737 Emperor Charles III’s decree the land of blends acreage or production volume. As a consequence blending listed the settlements that were granted the right to use has been a long-standing tradition in the region. The closed wine region the name Tokaj for their wines made from grapes harves- blend that stands head and shoulders above all others in ted within their administrative areas. Thereby it became terms of importance is of course egri bikavér with a 150 illegal to bring grapes, must or wine from other territories year history. Its white counterpart egri csillag is much into these demarcated zones and so the origin of Tokaj younger with just a decade since its inception but it has wines became protected. The outstanding universal value still managed to carve out a significant position in the of Tokaj was acknowledged by UNESCO in 2002 when it domestic market. Eger winemakers believe that this is the was listed as World Heritage site under the name ’Tokaj- wine category that offers the best chance to express the Hegyalja wine region historic cultural landscape’. The potential of the region. Strict regulations control the vari- aim of the legal protection is to preserve the condition of eties allowed in the blends and their relative proportions, the built structures and the natural environment. Today the viticultural practices and the technology, it is still a closed wine region with exclusively ageing requirements and the quality levels. So egri csillag production and winemakers in the 27 settlements can cul- is not just a vehicle to showcase the region’s diversity but tivate no more than six varieties. The following varieties also a guarantee of quality for customers. are allowed: , hárslevelű, sárgamuskotály, , kövérszőlő and kabar.

What makes the Szekszárd wine district special is the Often called the „ of ”, the Etyek-Buda Szekszárd - complex system of interconnected valleys and hills with Etyek - wine district is characterized by a cooler than average varied microclimates. The Szekszárd region stretches over climate in Hungary, calcareous soils and zesty wines. It a region of hills almost 150 km2 in an area that was once the seabed of the sparkling heritage is because of these features that Etyek is often compared Pannonian Sea. The sand and sediment left by the sea is to Burgundy or in . Actually there is and valleys now covered by loess, the wine region’s main soil type even more substance to these comparisons as József Törley interspersed by limestone and red clay. The vine growing recognized as early as 1882 how favourable the local areas are organically connected to the city and the conditions were for producing sparkling wines and soon are linked by narrow gullies cut into the loess Etyek sparkling wines achieved wide-scale recognition. by running water (locally known as „szurdik”). The dense Today most local focus on producing still wines, network of hills and valleys which create unique zones and in recent years Etyek was responsible for some of the in terms of microclimate and exposure together create a best Hungarian chardonnays, pinot noirs and sauvignon moderate-Mediterranean climate with frost-free springs blancs. However it is their intention to return to the regi- which coupled with loess soils enables winemakers to on’s heritage and to revive it as a premium craft expressive, inviting, fruity wines. It is common for product with a quality level and requirements which go local wineries to cultivate several plots, often separated by beyond the present day regulations. The major varieties quite a distance, which allows winemakers to fine-tune the of the wine region, and will have balance of their blends with grapes coming from warmer important roles to play in this project, but other local and or cooler areas and of differing soils. international varieties should also contribute to creating a special and recognizable style in Etyek.

4 5 Fine Wines Association was established with the goal of educating wine lovers, wine professionals and visiting tourists about the merits of Central and Eastern European wines and in particular Hungarian wines. Hungary is a country with a remarkable history in and wine production but when it comes to international markets it is still only an up-and-coming player. The rich diversity of local varieties and has not been explored by the rest of the world yet.

Consistency, high quality and individual character – these are the key words to describe the work of the members of the FINE WINES ASSOCIATION in past decades and this is what the words “Fine Wines” in the name refer to. They believe that working together and helping one another, selflessly sharing expertise and professional connections is the best way to make their wines and wine regions appreciated abroad. This spirit of cooperation is expressed by the word „Association”.

6 7 Representing five different wine districts the members of FWA Members of FWA are influential and important 5 wineries. Together they provide 1 a diverse, comprehensive and 4 easy to grasp cross-section 2 of quality wine production in Hungary. Each represents the typical wine style of its corresponding wine region 3 and together they cover a wide range of Hungarian wines in one comprehensive assortment. Their shared values are based on being small or medium sized Upper Pannon : Pannon Wine Region: Upper Hungary estates, their family centered 1 Sopron Wine District Wine Region: Wine Region: attitude, their respect for local ETYEK-BUDA & TOKAJ — SZEKSZÁRD — EGER — traditions of viticulture and 2 Etyek-Buda Wine District SOPRON — Tokaj-Hétszőlő Vida Péter Szekszárd Tóth Ferenc Winery winemaking, in harmony with a Etyeki Kúria Winery Organic Vineyards relentless spirit of innovation. 3 Szekszárd Wine District

By acquainting yourself with the 4 Eger Wine District wines of FWA members you can find out about local varieties, 5 Tokaj Wine District traditional blends, diverse styles and the specific characters of regions. You can explore a varied and extensive range of top quality region-specific wines which satisfy the tastes of consumers in every respect. Following Building communities and striving for environmentally conscious cooperation are highly esteemed values winemaking practices is also a shared by all FWA members. The realization common goal, with some choos- that led to the foundation of FWA was that ing to work organically. by joining forces they can inform consumers more efficiently about Hungarian geograph- ical indications, the system of controlled designations of origins, wine regions and their typical wines.

The purpose of the Association is to provide consumers with sufficient information through educating them about the controlled designations of origin (Etyek-Buda OEM, Sopron/Ödenburg OEM, Szekszárd OEM, Tokaj OEM, Eger OEM) which in turn enables them to make informed choices and find the products which suit their expectations best. They want to present the characteristics and the diversity of Hungarian wine regions, winemaking traditions and wine culture in a clear and easy to understand way and by doing so provide wine consumers with practical guidance in the intricacies of designations of origin, wine regions and wines.

A further goal is to inform customers about responsible wine consumption and the risks associated with excessive alcohol intake in a joint effort with the „Wine in Moderation” scheme which advocates sustainable wine culture.

8 9 We need to be brave. By standing up together in the Interpersonal relationships have always been of face of competition we are stronger than by just the utmost importance in the world of wine. Even going on about our business in our little bubbles. the very enjoyment of wine is something highly This road taken by us together offers the chance for personal. This is why we believe that joining forces real progress. and working together with winemakers who share our values and are aiming at the same high quality Anna Gézárt levels is going to be exciting and good fun.

Gergely Makai

I believe that it is possible to do things this way. To In today’s world in almost all fields shared thinking act in the spirit of shared values, to cooperate over and action has come to the fore and the significance the boundaries of wine regions and last but not least of team work has increased. It is our firm belief that to work in the company of great people. Together. four is more than one, provided they can cooperate in the right way and find common goals beyond their individual interests. This is what we have achieved. Péter Vida Katalin Tóth

10 11 Etyek-Buda Wine District

Geographical location: a part of the Upper Pannon wine region it is situated in Northern Transdanubia

Main soil: limestone

Climate: cold winters and moderately hot summers

Area under vine: 1652 ha

Most popular varieties: , chardonnay, pinot noir

Etyeki Kúria Etyeki Kúria Etyeki Kúria Kúria Sopron Kúria Sopron Sauvignon Chardonnay Pinot Noir Kékfrankos Blanc Etyek-Buda DOC Etyek-Buda DOC Sopron DOC Sopron DOC Etyek-Buda DOC

The cooler climate of the Etyek- This classic international variety Some people call Etyek-Buda Today the With more than half of its Buda wine district fits sauvignon thrives in the calcium rich soils the ’Hungarian Burgundy’, so it is best known for its reds. The vineyards dedicated to this blanc like a glove. Wines made of the Etyek-Buda wine district. shouldn’t come as a surprise that cool and windy climate coupled variety Sopron is the most here from this variety are distin- You can’t properly understand pinot noir has found a second with soils rich in minerals important kékfrankos producing guished by their zesty, vibrant the Etyek without getting home here and has gained a produces vibrant wines with region, rightly considered the acidity and stylistically speaking to know its chardonnays, as they steady foothold. Over its two ripe fruit notes. Etyeki Kúria’s ’Homeland of Kékfrankos’. The they occupy the middle ground are one of the most successful decade history in the region this highly successful Merlot is a grapes grown here produce between the classically re- wines of the region. Etyeki sensitive variety has attracted a real crowd-pleaser, with velvety wines of moderate tannins, zesty strained examples from the Loire Kúria produces chardonnays in strong following and developed texture and a beautiful terroir acidity, good balance and vi- and the more intense expressions various styles. This wine was a recognizable style that reflects expression. This -aged red brant fruit. All the above is true from New Zealand. At Etyeki partly fermented in oak and the Etyek-Buda terroir. Etyeki shows excellent balance with a for Etyeki Kúria’s Kékfrankos Kúria they have opted for low partly in steel tanks. It’s a spicy Kúria’s Pinot Noirs are aged in great ageing potential. coupled with the added benefits temperature fermentation and and beguilingly complex wine. Hungarian, Austrian and French deriving from proper ageing reductive technology to enhance oak barrels and the resulting both in barrels and bottles. The the primary fruit character. A wines are elegant, complex and resulting wine shows a cool brief ageing on fine lees gives the multifaceted. They are the pride elegance and can be cellared for wines extra textural complexity. and joy of the winery. many years to come.

12 13 When we set about building the this just meant bare walls all How to build a new HQ of our estate there was one around. When the first bunches Etyeki Kúria Winery thing we were sure of: the older arrived to the cellar parts of winery during buildings belonging to the winery the roof were still missing and must be preserved. This was one of some sections had no lightings time the basic premises that the archi- installed. At the gates trucks Established in: 1996 tect had to consider before making loaded with grapes and trucks his plans for an up-to-date, loaded with concrete were vying Vineyards: Etyek-Buda Wine District: 32 hectares & Sopron Wine District: 22 hectares state-of-the-art winery. Following for entrance. The available power our daily work in the vineyards sources were insufficient to Production: 250.000 bottles/year and the cellar we spent seemingly operate the crane and the press at endless sessions trying to align the the same time. In the two month Web: eu.etyekikuria.com architect’s concepts with those of long period of the harvest the the winemaker on what makes a steel fermentation tanks were E-mail: [email protected] winery’s facilities great. moved sixteen times.

Eventually everything turned out However looking back it’s not fine; the wines of the and We believe that the future is built on the past, striving to work in an innovative spirit while respecting the two year long preparation the new facilities both exceeded traditions and learning from them. As an important milestone in our history, we were the first in the region process that left the most our expectations. It was a chal- to plant Pinot Noir vines to make , previously only used to make sparkling wines. Working in two vivid memories but the last lenging period but it was worth it. distinct locations, Etyek-Buda and Sopron, enables us to create an exciting assortment of wines, ranging from two months of the construc- Since then whenever exhaustion light, fruity sparkling wines, through characteristic, acidity-driven white wines, all the way to mature reds. tion works. What made it so seems to set in at harvest time The home of the sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir trio is the Etyek-Buda wine district, located just memorable was the fact that the we just have to remind ourselves 30 minutes from Budapest. In the Sopron vineyards, found in the northwestern corner of Hungary on the final stages coincided with the what we went through earlier and border with Austria, kékfrankos and merlot dominate. harvest. By then the construction suddenly the task ahead looks has reached the ground floor but much less daunting.

14 15 Disrupting the wine scene

Etyek is a northern, cool climate vineyard with calcareous soils. Both natural conditions and market demand seemed to favour white wine production. These were the conditions Etyeki Kúria had to consider when it started its operation. We had to build on international varieties well suited to the cooler climate like chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. The decision worked well, the quality of our bottlings was high and consistent from the beginning. For a winery taking its first steps in an almost com- pletely forgotten wine region it was particularly important that these wines were quick to gain recognition and were well liked by domestic consumers.

With all this in mind it was a rather bold and risky move to plant pinot noir in the early 2000s Reviving a with the ambition of producing red wines in Etyek. At that time forgotten pinot noir was used to make white sparkling wines in the region. At wine region Etyeki Kúria the plans for red wine production started to take shape in the late 1990s. Planting began The tradition of viticulture and Báthori was the first to introduce in 2001 using French and German winemaking in Etyek goes back both gentle by pneu- clones suitable for red wine more than a millennium. For matic presses and temperature production. Our first Pinot Noir many centuries the region played controlled fermentation. These was bottled in 2003. a vital role in supplying the wine technologies play a vital role in merchants and the restaurants of producing expressive wines with the nearby capital, Budapest. But pronounced fruit flavours. Since then Pinot Noir has like in most other European wine become one of our winery’s stan- regions the ravages of Many of today’s leading dard bearers. With all the recog- dealt a devastating blow to the Hungarian wineries started nitions the wine has garnered industry. At that point all signs their careers during this decade. over the years what once seemed suggested that the fate of viticul- We are proud of the fact that a risky move has been com- ture in Etyek had been sealed. Etyeki Kúria was one of the pletely justified. Etyeki Kúria’s first in line to reacquaint the Pinot Noir is widely seen as a The history of modern wine- wider public with the wines of benchmark among Hungarian making in Hungary began in the Etyek in the 1990s. We find it representatives of this variety. 1990s. It is perhaps more accu- particularly inspiring that the However the achievement we rate to call it a restart or revival. winery started its operation in are the most proud of is that the This is the time when the Etyek– the very same building where quality of our wines convinced Buda vineyards were officially Tibor Báthori worked. However several local winemakers to recognized as a wine district. it is not only his historical follow in our footsteps and today It was at this point that an achievements that inspire us, pinot noir vinified as a red wine important figure in the history of we are also driven by a similar is one of the leading wine styles Hungarian winemaking started desire to innovate and to find in Etyek–Buda. his tenure in the region. Tibor new ways to develop.

16 17 Tokaj Wine District

Geographical location: Tokaj wine region, Northeast Hungary

Main soil: volcanic subsoil, loess cover

Climate: cold winters, moderately hot summers The Tokaj Wine Region Historic Cultural Landscape is part of the Area under vine: 5700 ha UNESCO World Heritage

Most popular varieties: furmint, hárslevelű, sárgamuskotály

Tokaj-Hétszőlő Tokaj-Hétszőlő Tokaj-Hétszőlő Tokaj-Hétszőlő Tokaj-Hétszőlő Estate Furmint Late Harvest Szamorodni Aszú Furmint Bio Selection Bio Bio Sweet Bio 5 Puttonyos Tokaj DOC Tokaj DOC Tokaj DOC Tokaj DOC Tokaj DOC

Furmint has been used to Furmint is the most important Furmint is a variety famed for Szamorodni is a wine category The unique Tokaj microclimate, make wines in Tokaj for many variety in the Tokaj wine region. its lively acidity and its ability unique to Tokaj. The name is of the fungus centuries, so it is justifiably An aromatically neutral variety to accumulate sugar. Shriveled Polish origin and it means ’as (a.k.a. „”) and centuries regarded as an indigenous it is capable of expressing its berries naturally yield them- it comes’. The name refers to of experience are the essential variety. To show its best it needs terroir with great precision. The selves to sweet wine making the fact that unlike with Aszús ingredients for the creation of soils rich in minerals, and when rather vibrant acidity typical of and this is what established where shriveled berries are picked the ultimate wine wonder: Tokaj its demands are met the wines the variety contributes to the the legendary status Tokaj has separately, with Szamorodnis the Aszú. Following the painstaking reflect their terroirs with great elegance and longevity of the enjoyed for many centuries. bunches containing both healthy and prolonged manual harvest precision. It is since 2009 that wines. In the case of Furmint With a well chosen dish the rich, and noble rot infected berries are when the dessicated berries Tokaj-Hétszőlő has decided to Selection the juice of carefully honey and dried fruit aromas of harvested at one go. Following are picked one by one, the aszú place much more emphasis on selected berries is fermented in late harvest sweet wines make fermentation the wines are aged berries are soaked in wine, then making dry wines. With our wooden vats and aged on its lees. for an unforgettable culinary in barrels. Tokaj-Hétszőlő’s Sweet pressed and according to the Estate Furmint the aim is to It is a wine of intense aromas, experience. At Tokaj-Hétszőlő Szamorodni is a modern wine that regulations aged in barrels and preserve the fruit aromas while good weight, great persistence the Late Harvest is fermented is vibrant and refreshing, display- finally in bottle. Tokaj-Hétszőlő’s producing a lithe but nonethe- and remarkable ageing potential. in steel tanks to preserve the ing opulent dried fruit aromas Aszú is characterized by an less substantial wine. seductive fruit flavours and to and an excellent balance between extraordinary range of aromas, achieve supple elegance. acidity and residual sugar. great poise and complexity.

18 19 One of the things that makes However there is no way to The mystery of Aszús so special is the fact that predict with any certainty when even winemakers working on aszú berries begin to develop. In Aszú them all year round can never some years they don’t develop Tokaj Hétszőlő Organic Vineyards know what to expect. Tokaj- at all. Harvest is a nerve-racking Hétszőlő’s Chief Winemaker period for winemakers all over Gergely Makai claims that with the world, however, in Tokaj every vintage he is constantly there is an extra element that Established in: 1502 / 1991 reminded that in the vineyards adds to your headaches: the where Aszús are about to be born anxious wait for the emergence Vineyards: Tokaj Wine District: 55 hectares unpredictable events, bordering of aszú berries. on the miraculous take place. Production: 150.000 bottles/year Being at the mercy of nature is “During harvest you go out to something that connects us with Web: www.tokajhetszolo.com/en check the vines and you find the generations working in Tokaj no signs of aszú berries being before us. It takes us back to five E-mail: [email protected] formed. And then barely a week centuries ago and we should feel later the bunches are full of grateful for having this reminder shriveled and Botrytis affected that links our present with the berries. past. The first document with Tokaj-Hétszőlő’s first class, organic vineyards are situated on the reference to Aszú dates from southern slopes of Mount Tokaj. Hétszőlő dates back to 1502. It used Science has come up with 1571 and it specifically mentions to belong to royal families, including the emperors of the Austro- explanations for many aspects the Hétszőlő vineyard which is Hungarian Monarchy. „Hétszőlő” means the 7 best parcels of vineyards of the conditions conducive to not only the name of our winery on Mount Tokaj. Hétszőlő uses only its own handpicked grapes which the formation of aszú berries. We today, but also our most impor- are treated in the most natural way. The historical Rákóczi Cellar is know what terroir characteristics tant vineyard and the location owned by Hétszőlő Winery. It is situated in the heart of Tokaj, right and varieties are needed. We also where the winery was built.” next to the church on the main square of the town. know that wet periods need to be followed by a drier spell.

20 21 Going organic to protect our heritage

Modern Hungarian winemaking began in the 1990s. Tokaj- Hétszőlő founded in 1502 was among the first wineries in Hungary which following the collapse of communism have reembraced their historical heritage. In hindsight it is clear that there was much more to this new beginning than just being one of the first ones.

What makes the vineyards The beginnings were rather which form a contiguous inauspicious as the first vintage, holding surrounding the central 2010 was a most challenging year building of the winery so with record-breaking amounts precious is that it was spared of rain and low temperatures. from the heavy use of chemicals It took a lot of dedication and that was so widespread in the attention to details in the vine- second half of the 20th century yards and then a careful selection and therefore when the winery of the right parcels to come up was reestablished it was easy to with the grapes for our first commit ourselves to eco-friend- Furmint Selection. Thankfully, ly farming. It has to be noted the wine was well-received. 2011 that at the time sustainable proved to be an excellent vintage. agriculture and the protection When the estate wine and the of the soil’s microbiome was far Furmint Selection was made we from being a major concern in For centuries the name of Tokaj kept in mind the lessons learnt Hungary or in Europe. Dry was synonymous with sweet during the previous year. The wines. And though Aszú next were mainly about 2009 was the year when we Revolution is still the crowning glory of fine-tuning oak management. took the next major step. We wines produced in the region, the were among the first wineries „dry revolution” of recent years It was a difficult challenge to find in Tokaj to decide to make our has opened a new chapter in the out not only which vineyards farming practices conform to history of Tokaj. yield the best grapes for dry the requirements for organic wines but actually which sec- certification. This meant that It was two young professionals tions within a specific vineyard. we had to guarantee that all who were mainly responsible In Tokaj soil composition may the processes applied from At the time we were troubled by consistently high quality both for the rise to prominence of dry vary widely even within the viticulture to bottling our wines doubts and haunted by fears. for our sweet wines, which wines at Tokaj-Hétszőlő. Gergely same vineyard. Eventually it were eco-friendly. However the past decade has require wet weather in autumn Makai started out as a winemaker was our highest lying area, Kis clearly demonstrated that our which in turn poses a serious and today he is the Managing Garai which proved to be the best two vineyards, Hétszőlő and threat to the vines’ health, and Director. Tamás Oroszlán started suited. This is a vineyard where Nagyszőlő, were justifiably clas- also for dry wines, a category out as a tastings coordinator the loess topsoil has almost sified as first growths centuries whose rise has totally trans- and today he is our Sales and completely eroded and roots ago. The conditions provided by formed the wine scene in Tokaj. Marketing Director. Together have to cut directly into volcanic these plots enable us to reach they combine impressive viticul- subsoil. Grapes grown in this tural and winemaking expertise spot produce wines with a strong with an in-depth understanding mineral character and this is a of the ins and outs of the global style that is more and more in wine market. demand not just in Hungary but all over the world.

22 23 Szekszárd Wine District

Geographical location: part of the Pannonian wine region, it is situated in the southern part of Transdanubia

Main soil: loess

Climate: mildly cold winters, hot summers

Area under vine: 2600 ha

Most popular varieties: kékfrankos, kadarka

Vida Péter Vida Péter Vida Péter Vida Péter Vida Péter Tündértánc Bonsai Kadarka Hidaspetre Bikavér Lösz Szekszárd DOC Szekszárd DOC Kékfrankos Szekszárd DOC Szekszárd DOC

Beyond growing indigenous Kadarka has been grown in Szekszárd DOC Bikavér is the region’s traditional The main soil type in Szekszárd varieties the wine region has a Hungary since the 15th century and emblematic blend, a wine is loess. Wines made from long-standing tradition of cul- and by now it is generally A variety hailing from the old that has always been held in grapes grown on loess soils tivating international varieties. considered a local variety. Today Dalmatian-Hungarian-Austrian high esteem throughout its long are typically expressive with They work well in all the typical one in every four kadarka vines territories kékfrankos has a history. One half is made up of fruity-floral aromas, round blends of the region: rosés, sillers, are grown in Szekszárd. Local great ability to convey terroir kékfrankos and kadarka the rest acidity and tannins, and there is light and weightier reds. In winemakers have always had a differences and it is able to cope is a carefully proportioned mix no need for extended cellaring Tündértánc the juicy and round special affinity with the variety with the changed conditions of the permitted international even with the more substantial fruit of merlot is lifted by the as it is demonstrated by the fact caused by global warming and varieties. The blend is then aged wines, they are ready to drink at zesty character of kékfrankos. that all the really old plantations produce top quality wines. One in barrels for at least a year. a relatively young age. Vida Lösz This is an inviting, charming in Szekszárd are kadarkas. The of the leading varieties of the Vida Bikavér displays marked is an elegant and charming wine, and elegant blend, very much grapes for Vida Bonsai come Szekszárd wine district sin- spiciness, faultless balance a true reflection of the terroir of like the dance of fairies. from centenarian vines. The gle-vineyard and premium kék- and elegance as it befits a true Szekszárd’s valleys. spicy character, the liveliness, frankoses are starting to receive Szekszárd wine. the elegance and the refreshing the attention they deserve. Vida vivacity is sure to enchant any Hidaspetre is a single-vineyard wine lover. wine showing balance and poise with refreshing tannins.

24 25 Why wine?

The founder of the winery, Péter I was the one in the family who Vida – winner of the prestigious studied enology, therefore it Vida Péter Szekszárd award, “Winemaker of the Year” was my responsibility, together in 2011 – is one of the leading with my siblings, to look after figures of the Szekszárd wine the vines. I was curious to see district today. However his ascent what others thought of the work Established in: 1989 to the top wasn’t a walk in the we did, so I decided to enter our park. Traditionally almost all Kadarka in a local wine compe- Vineyards: Szekszárd Wine District: 23 hectares families in Szekszárd owned some tition. The wine was registered vineyards and made some wine under the name of my father Production: 120.000 bottles/year but they rarely produced wines and I kept the whole business beyond the needs of the family. in secret. Web: www.vidaborbirtok.hu/en “I was a secondary school On a Sunday morning my father E-mail: [email protected] student when my family bought was reading his newspaper and a plot of about 2000 m2 in Bakta, there it was in bold letters that where, as the saying went, it the number one wine at the local was impossible to come into competition was the Kadarka In 2011 Péter Vida received the prestigious “Winemaker of the Year” award. The following years important the possession of land, unless of Sándor Vida. My father was a long-term decisions were made by the family and the vineyards were replanted in accordance with the new you inherited it. Historically, it really strict person, but at that strategy. After a three decade wait they are at last in the possession of vineyards which can express the true was the most highly regarded moment I saw tears of joy in his Szekszárd terroir. “Our goal is to promote the idea that the genuine Szekszárd wines are the ones which are vineyard in Szekszárd but with eyes. He hugged me and said: elegant and welcoming”, says Péter Vida. The focus is on Kékfrankos, Kadarka and Szekszárd Bikavér; the the passing of time the city “You will see, one day the Lord Vidas believe that these are the wines which best express the unique character of the region. Producing top swallowed it and housing estates will pay you back”. His reaction quality grapes is their main priority: “Vines should enjoy ideal conditions. We are doing our best to achieve took over from the vines. Today, and remarks confirmed my this and we treat them in the most natural way”. we are the only family left with belief that making wines is a operating vineyards in Bakta. rewarding career.”

26 27 Bonsai in Szekszárd

Péter Vida likes to take visitors for a guided tour in the vine- yards. “Once a Japanese wine The cellar key merchant came to visit us. He tasted the wines, listened to the story of kadarka and then he As a secondary school student When you realize that the most fruit and beguiling textures asked me to take him to see the Péter Vida studied viticulture important factor to determine that Szekszárd wines offer, and vineyards. When we arrived, and enology. The many great the quality of wines is the consumers love so much, is the he jumped out of the car, ran teachers he met there had a quality of grapes one also has to local soil: loess. towards the vines, all the while strong infulence on his career. accept that as a winemaker you Experts agree that wines made slapping his forehead as if he had “I remember one of my teachers are at the mercy of nature. Truth from grapes grown on loess just made some great discovery. began his viticulture lesson by to be told, with the climatic soils are typically expressive “Bonsai, bonsai!”, he shouted. holding up some pruning shears conditions we have in Szekszárd with fruity-floral aromas, round in front of the class and then the risks involved in winemak- acidity and tannins, and there is asked “What am I holding in my ing are not that big. no need for extended cellaring hands?”. “Pruning shears, Mr. Szekszárd as a wine region even with the more substantial Teacher”, the class answered. is one of a kind, the dense wines, they are ready to drink And his reply was: “Please, network of hills and valleys at a relatively young age. As remember this, these are not create unique zones in terms an acknowledgement of the pruning shears but the keys to of microclimate and exposure. significance of this type of soil the cellar.” However the key to the opulent we decided to call one of our premium category wines: Lösz.

I later learned that in Japan it is A kadarka vineyard planted in a sacred ritual when a grandfa- the 1920’s is something rare and ther gifts the bonsai he planted it represents great value in itself. decades earlier and then looked You have to bow deep or even after and pruned for so many kneel down when working with years to his grandchild. The tiny them as they are old, head- tree is the embodiment of the trained, bush vines. The label of care, trust and love connecting our Kadarka shows a plant that generations. This is what my is halfway between a bonsai and guest saw in my old vines and he a vine stock. The intention was was right. These kadarka stocks to express that even though they were planted, pruned and looked are small in size old vines are after by our ancestors. wiser than people.”

28 29 Eger Wine District

Geographical location: part of the Upper-Hungary wine region Eger is situated in Northeast Hungary

Main soil: rhyolite tuff

Climate: cold winters, moderately hot summers

Area under vine: 6000 ha

Most popular varieties: olaszrizling, leányka, kékfrankos, kadarka

Tóth Ferenc Tóth Ferenc Tóth Ferenc Tóth Ferenc Tóth Ferenc Egri Csillag Egri Csillag Egri Kadarka Egri Bikavér Egri Bikavér Eger DOC Superior Eger DOC Classicus Superior

There is not a single white Eger DOC Before the phylloxera blight Eger DOC Eger DOC variety that dominates the almost 70% of the vines grown either in Egri csillag has to contain in Hungary were kadarka but Bikavér has always had a prom- Grapes for egri bikavér have to be terms of area under vine or at least four different white then the variety almost com- inent role in Eger. Local wine- grown within the boundaries of in volume. However whites varieties, and at least half of the pletely disappeared. Today we makers agree that the best way to the Eger wine region. The blend’s are important with 45% of all varieties have to be indigenous are experiencing a revival in the show the potential of the region prime constituent is a local plantations dedicated to one or to the Carpathian Basin. There variety’s popularity. Ferenc Tóth is through blends. According to variety, kékfrankos. The strict another white variety. Blending are three different categories, all has been doing research with the regulations there are three regulations also stipulate the represents a long-standing of them dry: classicus, superior the various clones for years now levels of bikavér in Eger. For the proportions of the various vari- tradition in the wine region. So and grand superior. Tóth Ferenc and his efforts were honoured introductory level, “Classicus” eties, methods of vinification and it was a no-brainer to arrive at Egri Csillag Superior is a con- by the title “Hungary’s Kadarka Bikavér at Tóth Ferenc Winery ageing. Tóth Ferenc Egri Bikavér the idea of the white blend, “egri centrated white partially aged Ambassador”. This Kadarka is the base wines are aged separate- Superior is made from the best csillag”. The entry level Tóth in oak that lends itself to tasting aged in barrels for a brief period ly in barrels and then blended to lots of the constituent varieties. Ferenc Egri Csillag Classicus is on its own but is also great as to retain its vibrant, red fruit make for a full-bodied wine with This is a rich and elegant blend made from varieties indigenous an accompaniment to properly and spicy character. ample, ripe fruit. with a long ageing potential. to the Carpathian Basin, it sees selected dishes. no oak during vinification and it’s a lithe, refreshing wine with intense fruit.

30 31 A wine region built on blends

Blending is no child’s play at Once we have tasted all the sam- These trial blends are tasted our winery, the process may ples, there is always one lot which with members of the family take several weeks. But it can’t stands head and shoulders above and members of the staff and be hurried, you must get the the others. This lot which did par- eventually we vote on the one blending right. ticularly well in that vintage will we have found the best. Each of play a key role in the blending. us will take home a sample from Eger bikavér has a tradition The next step is to make various this blend to taste it again in the going back to over a hundred combinations, trial blends. At evening. Then we call each oth- years in our wine region. The this stage the base wines assume er back and forth to report on red blend well-known in foreign strategic roles. Some will be our findings. The assemblage of markets has received a new responsible for adding weight, our egri csillag and egri bikavér companion in 2010 when Eger others to provide zest or to add wines is the most exciting task winemakers decided to create aromatic complexity. of the whole year. a new category, a white blend called ’egri csillag’. It was high time to establish such a category because conditions in Eger favour white varieties just as much as reds.

At the start of the blending pro- cess in our winery 0.5 l bottles are filled with samples from all our wines. When we say ’all our wines’ it means more than just the different varieties. Some varieties have more than one version due to the different ves- sels of elevage (steel tank or oak barrels). Finally, there are single vineyard wines which also Tóth Ferenc Winery add to the number of possible combinations.

Established in: 1983

Vineyards: Eger Wine District: 30 hectares

Production: 120.000 bottles/year

Web: www.tothferencpinceszet.hu/en

E-mail: [email protected]

One of the oldest family owned wineries in the Eger wine district, Tóth Ferenc Winery was established in 1983 by ’Uncle Feri’. In recognition of his work, in 2018 he was elected “Viticulturist of the Year 2017 in Eger”. Several generations, young and old members of the family work together passionately to enhance the good reputation of the winery and the wines of Eger in general. In 2005 a new generation has joined the estate, the daughter and son-in-law of Ferenc Tóth. In the following years, besides many investments and developments, Katalin has gradually taken over the operative management of the winery. Today they produce top quality wines especially from two local varieties, Leányka and Kadarka. They also excel with the two iconic, traditional blends of the region, Egri Csillag and Egri Bikavér wines at three different quality levels.

32 33 The tree on top So when I grew up I wanted a different way of life, studied -fi of the hill nance and became the Managing Director of a bank in Eger. As it turned out, six hectares was just the right size for my parents: they could cope with the workload and the grapes yielded Síkhegy occupies a strategic It was an age-old dream of ours season of pruning, bud break, enough wine to provide a living. location in the Eger wine district. to make this spot accessible to or harvest, standing It was at the beginning of the When you look around you visitors so that we could taste right next to the vines it is much new millennium that we were can see all the most important the wines we produce together. easier to explain and to grasp faced with the dilemma of what vineyards of the region. We can We have found that it is a totally what it is like working in the to do with our little holding. actually see our home as well different experience to taste vineyard and how much effort There seemed to be only two from Síkhegy and when we step wines among vineyards re- goes into producing the wine in options for the winery: extension outside from our home in the gardless of the season. Be it the your glass. or slow decline. morning the first thing we see on the horizon is Síkhegy. This was when I decided to leave the bank and start working Síkhegy has long been consid- full-time at the winery. It was ered one of the prime locations a momentous decision for the for growing grapes in Eger. This entire family. Especially for is why Eger winemakers have me. I remember what it was like always been keen on acquiring in the first year when the only some holdings here. In our case people I knew from the wine acquisition was a painstaking business were my parents. It process, the contiguous lot on was a particularly difficult and the top of the hill we own today lonely year. was stitched together from bits and pieces as small as eight But as time passed by I got to rows. We grow kékfrankos, know more and more people, , cabernet my knowledge expanded and so franc and merlot there. did my responsibilities, I had to make more and more decisions. There is a tree on top of the hill. I learnt a lot from my Dad and If you stop by this tree and look his expertise is the cornerstone around you’ll see grapes all of my understanding of wine. around. And people whose lives He has laid the foundations on revolve around farming grapes. which I can build and extend it There is always someone work- with my own experience. It is the ing in the nearby vineyards. To two of us whose work makes our our mind this is the ideal place wines precious and unmistak- to experience perfect peace. Passing the baton ably Egrian.” to the next generation

Today the family winery is run by Katalin Tóth. “I was born in Eger. This is where my family lives. My grand- parents and great-grandparents have also worked in agriculture, growing grapes and vegetables in Eger on both sides of my family.

As a child the turning point in my life was when almost 40 years ago my Dad planted six hectares of grapes in the Áfrika-vineyard. From then on every afternoon and all school holidays were about tending the vines. All the work in the vineyards was done by us and I was not particularly happy about it.

34 35 Wine Map of Hungary Tokaj Wine Region

Tokaj Wine District

Upper Pannon Wine Region

Etyek-Buda Wine District

Mór Wine District

Neszmély Wine District

Pannonhalma Wine District

Sopron Wine District Upper Hungary Wine Region

Bükk Wine District

Eger Wine District

Mátra Wine District

Danube Wine Region

Csongárd Wine District

Hajós-Baja Wine District

Balaton Wine Region Kunság Wine District

Badacsony Wine District Pannon Wine Region Balatonboglár Wine District

Balaton Highlands Wine District Pécs Wine District

Balatonfüred-Csopak Wine District Szekszárd Wine District

Nagy-Somló Wine District Tolna Wine District

Zala Wine District Villány Wine District

36 37 @fwahungary

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FWA Wineries

Etyeki Kúria Winery Tokaj-Hétszőlő Vida Péter Szekszárd Tóth Ferenc Winery Organic Vineyards www.etyekikuria.com www.tokajhetszolo.com www.vidaborbirtok.hu www.tothferencpinceszet.hu 2091 Etyek, 3910 Tokaj, 7100 Szekszárd, 3300 Eger, Báthori utca 21. Bajcsy-Zs. út 19-21, Napfény utca 27/A Kristályai út 40. [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] @etyekikuria @tokajhetszolo @vidaborbirtok @tothferencpinceszet

Etyeki Kúria Winery, Tokaj-Hétszőlő Organic Vineyards, Tóth Ferenc Winery, Photos Vida Péter Szekszárd, Korsós Viktor, Láng Nándor, Oláh Petra, Wines of Hungary - Personally

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