International Journal of Research and Review Vol.7; Issue: 1; January 2020 Website: www.ijrrjournal.com Research Paper E-ISSN: 2349-9788; P-ISSN: 2454-2237

Symbols, Functions and the Meaning of Wedding Clothes in Implanting Simalungun Cultural Values

Warisman Sinaga, Ramlan Damanik

Department of Literature, Faculty of Cultural Sciences, University of North , Jalan Universitas Number 19 Padang Bulan

Corresponding Author: Warisman Sinaga

ABSTRACT components in traditional clothes for either man or women. On man the traditional clothes The research, recording, and documenting of among other toluk balanga clothes, gotong, traditional regional costume is an attempt to rantei gotong, doromani, hiou, hadang hadang( identify the return types of clothes worn by the Suri suri ), ponding ulu ni begu, pisau suhul hereditary society of a nation. On the other gading, hassing, tintin tapak gajah, golang hand, traditional clothing is already rarely used harissungan (golang banggal), rudang hapias, traditional clothes, even though the person is a ponding () whilefor woman soja clothes, type of clothing that reflects the cultural values bulang, hiou, suri suri, bajut hundul, golang, of the region, and is part of the national culture. panjetter (bun) and tintin pitta pitta. Therefore research custom clothing needs to be done in an attempt to attract back the Key words: Traditional clothe Simalungun, information clear details regarding the type, form, function and meaning. variety, meaning, function, and significance that is in the custom clothing. Semiotics is a science 1. INTRODUCTION which helps to answer it. Semiotics is the study is a country with diverse of a sign. In each of the signs or symbols have culture and tribes. If we examine a great meaning or message delivered by many diverse cultures and arts in Indonesia, communicators to communicant. The relation of one of them an existing traditional clothes in semiotics with this research is as a method of analysis of the text in the research on traditional 34 provinces in Indonesia. Traditional clothes Simalungun. The purpose of this clothes are the characteristic regional research was performed to analyze the image of cultures each of which has its own meaning. the symbol value, function and social meanings Province which was part of contained in traditional clothes Simalungun. In the 34 provinces in Indonesia and is located this research the researchers using theory of on the tip of Sumatra island. The province semiotics which was developed by a semiologi borders the province Nangro Aceh named Charles s. Pierce. The theory developed Darussalam province known as various by Charles s. Pierce has a map of interconnected ethnic inhabited such as ethnic Batak elements of the sign. The element is signifier, Simalungun, Batak Toba, Mandailing, signified, conotative signifier, and conotative Pakpak, also have traditional clothes signified. Then the theory of local wisdom by Robert Sibarani. To get the research data in the each. One of the most dominant tribes in the form of qualitative and quantitative, province of North Sumatra Batak tribe. observational method applied to techniques of Batak have some sub tribes, among others, fun and talk, method of recording techniques Batak Toba, Batak Mandailing, Batak Karo, and interviews with noted, the method of Batak Pakpak, Batak Simalungun, and each documentation with the techniques noted and sub tribe has customs, language and culture methods questionnaire. The research results are of each. Traditional clothes everyday Batak presented in narrative form with formal and tribe used daily are made from woven fabric informal methods. In this research found several

International Journal of Research and Review (ijrrjournal.com) 231 Vol.7; Issue: 1; January 2020 Warisman Sinaga et.al. Symbols, Functions and the Meaning of Wedding Clothes in Implanting Simalungun Cultural Values typical Batak ulos in Batak Toba, uis in In the ceremony of marriage on society Batak Karo, in Malay, hiou in Simalungun found traditional clothes Batak Simalungun.In general the typical Simalungunworn by the groom or the bride. Batak woven fabric which became the main Both traditional clothes Simalungun worn feature of its identity and traditional clothes by the groom or the bride's being used has the Batak of North Sumatra on the national the function and meaning of each. scene. Traditional clothes Simalungun worn during Talking about tribes is certainly not marriage is the fashion of pride and portray complete if not discussed about the customs grandeur and politeness. Traditional clothes and culture of each ethnic. One of the tribes Batak Simalungun encountered motifs that are in the province of North Sumatra is which contain lots of functions and a tribe of Simalungun, Simalungun tribes meanings, generally community knowing rich with culture also know and found many Simalungun existence clothing traditional clothes. Traditional clothes is an custom, but very few who will understand outfit that has its own model used on special the function and meaning of the indeed occasions, have regional nuances, color and contained in traditional clothes Batak a specific pattern. Traditional clothes have 2 Simalungun. That is why researchers feel (two) understanding among others interested in researching on traditional 1. Traditional clothing in the traditional clothes Simalungun, another reason that sense as illustrated above. along the time of the development of the 2. Traditional clothing in a dynamic sense, younger generation less enthusiastic towards namely clothing befits clothing in culture and if not preserved is not general, but have a specific identities impossible the use traditional clothes that is recognized as a characteristic of a Simalungun will be eroded by the particular region. development of the times. Typical features of the owned and 2. Theory Of Semiotics recognized as belonging to that area could Semiotics: Greece comes from the be a motive, images, materials, colour or a word semeion meaning sign. In semiotics, a specific model. Traditional clothes sign is something that communicates the Simalungun customarily worn when there is meaning of which is not a sign of the sign a wedding or marriage, in Simalungun interpreter. The meaning can be intentional society wedding ceremony also knows the as spoken word with a specific meaning, or traditional clothes worn when there is a was unintentional. The sign could wedding. Traditional clothing is one of the communicate through the senses, visual, elements of culture generated through hearing, smell, or taste. Two main theories human thought; in the social context of describing how signs of gaining the ability traditional clothing provide harmony, to transfer information. Both the theory harmony for humans that can be comprehend the nature of the determinant transformed into a sense of aesthetics. sign as a relation between a number of Traditional clothing is clothing worn by elements. In the tradition of semiotics generations and is one of the identities that developed by Ferdinand de Saussure can be proud of the supporters of that (referred to as semiology) are a sign of culture. diadik relations, consists only of the form of Marriage is one of the most the sign (signifier) and its meaning important parts in people's lives. Due to (marked). marriage is not only the events experienced by two different types of individuals. In fact 3. The Theory Of Local Wisdom marriage is an event involving the burden The local wisdom is the value of and responsibility of family, relatives and local culture having been applied to wisely even the testimony of community members. manage the community’s social order and

International Journal of Research and Review (ijrrjournal.com) 232 Vol.7; Issue: 1; January 2020 Warisman Sinaga et.al. Symbols, Functions and the Meaning of Wedding Clothes in Implanting Simalungun Cultural Values social life, local wisdom is the local cultural issanina, tondong and anak boru. While values that can be used to set the order of custom clothing for women consists of: soja the life of society as clever and wise clothes, bulang, hiou, suri suri, bajut (Sibarani 2012;115) hundul, golang , panjetter ( bun ) and tintin pitta pitta. 4. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY The symbols, functions and The methodology used in this meanings of each component of traditional method are researchers in a descriptive clothing Simalungun have their own qualitative approach, i.e. making a image or meaning for example gotong and bulang is description of the object to be examined head cover for men and women. Besides as later described systematic data encountered the head covering also serves as a symbol of in the field. adulthood and behave as a parent. Gotong and Bulang means the transition of status 5. DISCUSSION from garama (young adult) to be parent. So For the , clothes also the accessories that are attached to the in addition to functioning as cover of aurat gotong and bulang such as rudang hapias, and protect the body from heat and cold, doramani, rantei gotong also serves as a also hinted about the emblems or symbols. decoration on gotong also has a function to Symbols that embody the values of the adi add charisma, spirit (jumbalang) to always luhung overriding high by the people. get sympathy from others. The meaning of With the unite it of cultural symbols these accessories is that the wearing of these with the clothes, the position and role of accessories are the descendants of the king. clothing became very important in the lives Toluk balanga clothesand soja clothes of the Simalungun people. The various serves as a cover body or aurat and also to provisions of the customary set about beautify the body to look elegant, full of shapes, pattern (the motive), the colour, the confidence and meaning as a symbol of use, and the use of clothes. Customs courage, valor, wisdom of the wearer. provisions it put in place to educate and Hiou for men as well as women improve the morals of the people who wear wear wrapped around the waist serves to them. show the identity as a tribe of Simalungun Clothes (paheian in Batak language) also means as heating in the soul so that custom Simalungun well worn man and taking a healthy, long life. women contain lots of meaning, traditional Suri suri for man and woman clothes Simalungun for men, among others: function to distinguish the class on the baju toluk balanga, gotong, rantei gotong, kinship system, if used on the shoulder of doromani, hiou, hadang hadang( Suri suri ), the shoulder hence the wearer suri suri is a ponding ulu ni begu, pisau suhul gading, verse expert (suhut) while if used wrapped hassing, tintin tapak gajah, golang around the waist then the user is a harissungan (golang banggal), rudang daughter(the father of a woman).At the hapias , ponding (belt). joyous suri suri function serves as the Although men's custom clothing symbol of the relay or the transition period component Simalungun very much but from a young adult to become parents. The generally Simalungun custom clothing for meaning of suri suri is as a gesture of men consists of 3 sections i.e., headgear is responsibility run more weight due to gotong (headband) and then gotong (or transitional status of garama (young adult) headband found doramani, rudang hapias, become parents and meaningful symbol of and rantei gotong While the breastplate is courage, valor, and beauty. clothes ( Baju toluk balanga ) and close the Ponding ulu ni begu in the form of bottom is abit, the three symbolic kinship belts for man as well as woman function is Simalungun called tolu sahundulan that to augment and beautify the appearanceand

International Journal of Research and Review (ijrrjournal.com) 233 Vol.7; Issue: 1; January 2020 Warisman Sinaga et.al. Symbols, Functions and the Meaning of Wedding Clothes in Implanting Simalungun Cultural Values describe the authority, elegance, courage begu was the reinforcement, binding and the policy of the wearer while the customs and religions as well as the courage meaning contained in the ponding ulu ni of the wearer.

Pictures and custom clothing for men Gotong

Rudang Hapias Rantei Gotong

Doramani Baju Toluk Balanga Hadang hadang/ suri suri Tintin Tapak Gajah Suhul gading

Hiou Ponding Ulu Ni Begu Golang Banggal

Hassing and custom clothing for women Bulang

Hudung Sinokkok hudung

Baju soja

Bajut hundul

Suri suri /Hadang hadang

Golang banggal

Ponding

Hiou

International Journal of Research and Review (ijrrjournal.com) 234 Vol.7; Issue: 1; January 2020 Warisman Sinaga et.al. Symbols, Functions and the Meaning of Wedding Clothes in Implanting Simalungun Cultural Values

In traditional clothes Simalungun Local wisdom values more is the found pisau suhul gading called suhul commitment to the task of garama (young gading because we made of ivory while if adult) become parents to be found in the use we made of wood called pisau tumbuk of gotong as well as the wearing of bulang lada.The knife serves to maintain the safety seen someone if applied gotong or bulang of the King and his descendants of the then became the harbinger of the transition enemies who wish to harm them and this of young people into parents and certainly means an attitude of blade Knight and the should be kept as a parent commitment, the courage to stand up for Justice and commitment of the other device is any righteousness and pride, the authority as custom clothing like suri suri if worn for leader. man could only be black. While the local Other accessories are hassing, tintin wisdom values for positive-minded found tapak gajah golang harissungan (golang on the blade of this suhul gadingknife which banggal) serves to add to the beauty, must not be issued if not in urgent elegance, authority of the wearer. This circumstances. accessories when times are very rarely found because the price is very expensive 6. CONCLUSIONS AND because it's only the descendants of the SUGGESTIONS King and the nobles who were able to wear Conclusions them. The research of traditional clothes Bajut hundul found on the woman Simalungun was generating some who is a decorated bead bag beading that conclusions include: serves to place such as lime and betel, betel 1. Traditional clothes Simalungun for man nut, tobacco, gambier. On bajut hundul include: there is also a poison as well as an antidote a. Gotong ,in gotong found accessories if anyone wants to harm the King then the (rudang hapias, doramani, poison that is in the bajut hundul ranteigotong) immediately issued in order that the King b. Toluk balanga clothes, after wearing and his descendants survived. The meaning toluk balanga clothes seen contained in the bajut hundul is the suhulgading knife, hassing, ponding brotherhood against the fellow and the ulu ni begu, golang banggal, tintin recognition of God Almighty. tapak gajah . The values of local wisdom, among c. Hiou for man usedhiou ragi paneand others, politeness, honesty, solidarity, suri suri or hadang hadang should harmony, commitment, positive thoughts only be suri suri who is black are found in traditional clothing 2. Traditional clothes Simalungun for Simalungun, such as politeness found in a woman include: dress that reflects the culture of eastern still a. Bulang held firm by covering the aurat, honesty b. Soja clothes , soja clothes will look found in the use of hiou , if the man wearing suri suri, ponding ulu ni begu, the hiou tip leads to the left while the golang banggal which if compared woman ends facing to the right meaningful to golang banggal for man appear in the household there must be mutual larger, bajut hundul. honesty. Social solidarity found in bajut c. Hiou, for woman hiou bopleh used hundul if any brother who got poison in hiou ragi paneandragi santik . Suri bajut hundul found an antidote to counteract suri (hadang hadang) should be the poison. Concord is characterized by tolu black and red colors. sahundulan form gotong, toluk balanga 3. Each component of the traditional clothes, and abit ( hiou ). clothes worn by the man as well as

International Journal of Research and Review (ijrrjournal.com) 235 Vol.7; Issue: 1; January 2020 Warisman Sinaga et.al. Symbols, Functions and the Meaning of Wedding Clothes in Implanting Simalungun Cultural Values

woman has the form, function and , more loving meaning that describe the nature of culture. Simalungun, ethnic and also contained local wisdom shared values such as 7. REFERENCES politeness, honesty, solidarity, harmony, 1. Abrams, M.H 1991. A Glosary of Literature commitment, positive thoughts. Tern .New York, Holt, Rinehart and Wiston 2. Admansyah, Tengku 1994. Peranan Budaya Melayu sebagai sub kultur Kebudayaan Suggestions Nasional. Medan : Yayasan Karya Budaya 1. The younger generation in particular the Nasional younger generation Simalungun recently 3. De Saussure Ferdinand 1998 Course in eroded by advances so that less General LinguisticYogjakarta : GajahMada understanding and loving culture University especially of traditional clothes, 4. Deely, Jhon, 2009 , Basicsof Semiotics, therefore need to be ongoing Tartu University Press construction government of Simalungun 5. Eco Umberto, 1978 A Theory of Semiotics . Regency so that the younger generation Indiana University Bloogmington is more understanding and loving 6. H.Hoed, Benny 2008. Semiotika dan culture by incorporating local content Dinamika Sosial Budaya, FIB : UI Depok 7. Pierce,Charles Sanders 1996, A General curriculum for Senior High School Intoduction to The Semiotic, Indiana about the culture. University Press 2. Lately a lot of the younger generation 8. Purba, Jomen 2009 Pakaian (paheian) Adat that is less understood names of custom Simalungun. P.Siantar: Museum clothing Simalungun, therefore it is Simalungun. necessary to make some sort of book or 9. Purba ,Freddy, 2011 Peradaban Simalungun catalog containing about what be a (Inti Seminar Kebudayaan Simalungun component of traditional clothes Se –Indonesia pertama Tahun 1964 ) P. Simalungun is good for man as well as Siantar Komite Penerbit Buku Simalungun for women. 10. Sibarani, Robert .2012 Kearifan Lokal. 3. The necessity of Simalungun Regency Jakarta :Asosiasi Tradisi Lisan Government implemented with routine How to cite this article: Sinaga W, Damanik R. at least once a week to wear traditional Symbols, functions and the meaning of wedding clothes Simalungun form gotong and clothes in implanting Simalungun cultural hiou on SKDP that is in Government in values. International Journal of Research and order to make the next generation Review. 2020; 7(1): 231-236.

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International Journal of Research and Review (ijrrjournal.com) 236 Vol.7; Issue: 1; January 2020