UE-Bloom-UP-2018
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GLOBAL DISTRIBUTION An estimated 2,200 perfumes were launched in 2017 worldwide, 10% more than in 2016. The turnover of these new launches grow of 39% this year compared to 2016, in particular feminine ones which represent now 14% of the total Feminine fragrances turnover. Regarding the distribution, the niche perfumery is increasing more and more each year, that leads to a rise of unisex perfumes which represent more than 50% of the total market. The Feminine part is still more than twice the masculine one with 34% and 16%, respectively. * * Source: Michael Edwards database, Volume growth data 3 DISTRIBUTION CHANNEL OF NEW LAUNCHES 50% Niche Perfumery 33% Selective Perfumery 17% Massmarket, Direct Selling * Source: Michael Edwards database 4 NEW LAUNCHES OLFACTIVE FAMILIES DISTRIBUTION 50% 53% 32% 22% 11% 11% 8% 4% 3% 2% 4% Women Men Floral Floriental Chypre Fruity Woody Oriental Citrus Fougere Woody Citrus Oriental 39% 22% 17% 7% 4% 4% 4% 3% Shared Floral Woody Citrus Oriental Floriental Chypre Fougere Fruity * Source: Michael Edwards database 5 TOP FEMININE NEW LAUNCHES IN 2017 6 TOP MASCULINE NEW LAUNCHES 2017 7 TOP SHARED NEW LAUNCHES 2017 8 TOP 30 2017 - FRANCE YEAR OF MARKET RANKING OLFACTIVE OLFACTIVE RANKING PERFUME BRAND LAUNCH SHARE (%) 2016 FAMILY SUB-FAMILY 1 La Vie est Belle LANCÔME 2012 3,9 1 Floriental Woody 2 J'adore CHRISTIAN DIOR 1999 3,3 2 Floral Fruity Coco 3 CHANEL 2001 2,9 3 Chypre Fruity 17,20% Mademoiselle 23,30% Floriental 4 Chanel N°5 CHANEL 1921 2,2 5 Floral Aldehydic 5 Angel MUGLER 1992 2,2 6 Oriental Edible 6 Gabrielle CHANEL 2017 2,1 NEW Floral Green Floral La Petite Robe 7 GUERLAIN 2009 2,1 4 Floriental Edible Top 30 Olfactive Family Distribution Noire 17,80% YVES SAINT 8 Black Opium 2014 2,1 7 Floriental Ambery LAURENT (Market Share) Chypre 9 Miss Dior CHRISTIAN DIOR 2005 1,9 16 Chypre Fruity 10 Scandal JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 2017 1,8 NEW Oriental Edible Oriental 11 Si ARMANI 2013 1,8 8 Chypre Fruity 41,70% 12 La Nuit Trésor LANCÔME 2015 1,6 10 Floral Fruity YVES SAINT 13 Mon Paris 2016 1,6 13 Chypre Fruity LAURENT 14 Mon Guerlain GUERLAIN 2017 1,5 NEW Oriental Aromatic 15 Flower by Kenzo KENZO 2000 1,5 9 Floral Musky 16 Shalimar GUERLAIN 1925 1,4 11 Oriental Ambery 17 Alien MUGLER 2005 1,2 14 Floral Woody 18 Opium YVES SAINT LAURENT 1977 1,0 19 Oriental Spicy 40,30% 19 Twilly HERMES 2017 1,0 NEW Floral Green 20 Lady Million PACO RABANNE 2010 0,9 17 Floriental Edible Top 30 Olfactive Sub-Family Distribution La Vie Est Belle 21 LANCÔME 2017 0,9 NEW Floral Oriental l’Eclat (Market Share) 22 Aura MUGLER 2017 0,9 NEW Floriental Fruity 23 Chloé Signature Chloé 2007 0,9 22 Floral Floral 15,20% 24 Live Irresistible GIVENCHY 2015 0,8 15 Floral Fruity 11,10% 25 Amor Amor CACHAREL 2003 0,8 35 Floriental Fruity 6,70% 7,60% 26 Because it’s You EMPORIO ARMANI 2017 0,8 NEW Floral Fruity 4,80% 3,50% 3,30% 3,30% 2,20% 2% 27 Kenzo World KENZO 2016 0,8 25 Floral Fruity 28 Trésor LANCÔME 1990 0,7 23 Floral Fruity 29 Nina NINA RICCI 2006 0,7 21 Floral Fruity Woody Fruity Aldehydic Edible Green Ambery Aromatic Musky Spicy Floral oriental 30 Paris YVES SAINT LAURENT 1983 0,7 24 Floral Floral 9 TOP 30 2017 - FRANCE YEAR OF MARKET RANKING OLFACTIVE OLFACTIVE RANKING PERFUME BRAND LAUNCH SHARE (%) 2016 FAMILY SUB-FAMILY 1,90% 4,60% 1 Bleu CHANEL 2010 5,7 2 Woody Aromatic 3% 2 Sauvage CHRISTIAN DIOR 2015 5,5 1 Fougere Aromatic 3 Terre d’Hermès HERMES 2006 4,7 3 Woody Spicy Woody 4 1 Million PACO RABANNE 2008 3,2 5 Woody Oriental 6,80% 5 Boss Bottled HUGO BOSS 1998 3,2 6 Woody Fruity Fougere 6 Le Mâle JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 1995 3,0 7 Fougere Ambery 7 Invictus PACO RABANNE 2013 2,9 4 Woody Marine Citrus 8 Eau Sauvage CHRISTIAN DIOR 1966 2,6 8 Citrus Chypre Top 30 Olfactive Family Distribution 53% Aromatic 9 Azzaro Wanted AZZARO 2016 2,3 11 Woody Aromatic 30,70% La Nuit de YVES SAINT 10 2009 2,1 9 Woody Oriental l’Homme LAURENT Oriental YVES SAINT 11 Y 2017 1,9 NEW Aromatic Fruity LAURENT Stronger With Floral 12 EMPORIO ARMANI 2017 1,9 NEW Fougere Woody You 13 Boss The Scent HUGO BOSS 2015 1,8 10 Woody Fruity 14 Habit Rouge GUERLAIN 1965 1,7 15 Oriental Citrus 15 Acqua Di Gio GIORGIO ARMANI 1996 1,7 14 Citrus Marine 16 Only The Brave DIESEL 2009 1,6 19 Fougere Ambery 17 L’homme YVES SAINT LAURENT 2006 1,6 13 Fougere Aromatic 18 L’homme Idéal GUERLAIN 2014 1,6 12 Woody Oriental 28,10% 19 Chrome AZZARO 1996 1,5 16 Fougere Citrus Azzaro pour 20 AZZARO 1978 1,5 17 Fougere Aromatic Homme Top 30 Olfactive Sub-Family Distribution Allure Homme 21 CHANEL 2004 1,4 18 Woody Citrus Sport (Market Share) 22 Gentleman GIVENCHY 2017 1,3 NEW Woody Spicy Dior Homme 23 CHRISTIAN DIOR 2007 1,3 21 Woody Floral Intense 12,50% 24 Fahrenheit CHRISTIAN DIOR 1988 1,2 22 Floral Woody 12,20% 9,50% 10,10% 25 Pure XS PACO RABANNE 2017 1,2 NEW Oriental Aromatic 7,30% 7,30% 26 Dior Homme CHRISTIAN DIOR 2005 1,2 20 Woody Floral 4,10% 4,90% 4% 27 Hugo man HUGO BOSS 1995 1,0 23 Fougere Fruity 28 Allure Homme CHANEL 1998 0,9 25 Fougere Ambery 29 Ultra Mâle JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 2015 0,9 26 Fougere Ambery aromatic spicy oriental fruity ambery marine chypre woody citrus floral 30 Armani Code ARMANI 2004 0,8 27 Woody Oriental 10 TOP 30 2017 - EUROPE YEAR OF MARKET OLFACTIVE OLFACTIVE RANKING PERFUME BRAND LAUNCH SHARE (%) FAMILY SUB-FAMILY 1 La Vie est Belle LANCÔME 2012 15 Floriental Woody 2 Coco Mademoiselle CHANEL 2001 14 Chypre Fruity 3 J'adore CHRISTIAN DIOR 1999 11,6 Floral Fruity 10,40% floriental 4 Chanel N°5 CHANEL 1921 10 Floral Aldehydic 5,40% 24,30% 5 Gabrielle CHANEL 2017 8,3 Floral Green chypre 6 Black Opium YVES SAINT LAURENT 2014 8,3 Floriental Ambery 7 Alien MUGLER 2005 7,8 Floral Woody Top 30 Olfactive Family Distribution floral 8 Si ARMANI 2013 7,4 Chypre Fruity (Market Share) 9 CK One CALVIN KLEIN 1994 6,5 Citrus Floral citrus 10 Angel MUGLER 1992 5,9 Oriental Edible 36,40% 23,50% 11 Lady Million PACO RABANNE 2010 5,6 Floriental Edible oriental 12 Scandal JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 2017 5,5 Oriental Edible 13 Chloé Signature Chloé 2007 5,4 Floral Floral 14 For Her NARCISO RODRIGUEZ 2003 5,4 Chypre Floral 15 Miss Dior CHRISTIAN DIOR 2005 4,4 Chypre Fruity 16 Light Blue DOLCE & GABBANA 2001 4,1 Floral Woody 17 Mon Paris YVES SAINT LAURENT 2016 4 Chypre Fruity 18 Hypnotic Poison CHRISTIAN DIOR 1998 3,5 Oriental Ambery 19 Olympéa PACO RABANNE 2015 3,1 Floriental Woody 31,50% 20 Good Girl CAROLINA HERRERA 2016 2,9 Floriental Fruity Top 30 Olfactive Sub-Family Distribution 21 Trésor LANCÔME 1990 2,0 Floral Fruity 22 The One DOLCE & GABBANA 2006 2,6 Floral Woody (Market Share) 20,40% 23 Flower by Kenzo KENZO 2000 2,4 Floral Musky 24 Tiffany & Co TIFFANY & CO 2017 2,4 Chypre Floral 12,30% 25 Because it’s You EMPORIO ARMANI 2017 2,2 Floral Fruity 11,90% 26 Eau de Rochas ROCHAS 1970 2,2 Citrus Chypre 7,40% 6,20% 6,30% La Petite Robe 27 GUERLAIN 2009 2,1 Floriental Edible Noire 28 Amor Amor CACHAREL 2003 1,9 Floriental Fruity 1,50% 1,40% 1,10% 29 Opium YVES SAINT LAURENT 1977 1,8 Oriental Spicy woody fruity aldehydic green ambery floral edible musky chypre spicy 30 Twilly HERMES 2017 1,8 Floral Green 11 TOP 30 2017 - EUROPE YEAR OF MARKET OLFACTIVE OLFACTIVE RANKING PERFUME BRAND LAUNCH SHARE (%) FAMILY SUB-FAMILY 1 Bleu CHANEL 2010 5,7 Woody Aromatic 3,10% 2 Sauvage CHRISTIAN DIOR 2015 5,5 Fougere Aromatic 4,70% 6,80% 3 Terre d’Hermès HERMES 2006 4,7 Woody Spicy woody 4 1 Million PACO RABANNE 2008 3,2 Woody Oriental 5 Boss Bottled HUGO BOSS 1998 3,2 Woody Fruity fougere 6 Le Mâle JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 1995 3,0 Fougere Ambery Top 30 Olfactive Family Distribution 7 Invictus PACO RABANNE 2013 2,9 Woody Marine 54,10% citrus 8 Eau Sauvage CHRISTIAN DIOR 1966 2,6 Citrus Chypre 31,30% 9 Azzaro Wanted AZZARO 2016 2,3 Woody Aromatic aromatic La Nuit de 10 YVES SAINT LAURENT 2009 2,1 Woody Oriental l’Homme 11 Y YVES SAINT LAURENT 2017 1,9 Aromatic Fruity oriental 12 Stronger With You EMPORIO ARMANI 2017 1,9 Fougere Woody 13 Boss The Scent HUGO BOSS 2015 1,8 Woody Fruity 14 Habit Rouge GUERLAIN 1965 1,7 Oriental Citrus 15 Acqua Di Gio GIORGIO ARMANI 1996 1,7 Citrus Marine 16 Only The Brave DIESEL 2009 1,6 Fougere Ambery 17 L’homme YVES SAINT LAURENT 2006 1,6 Fougere Aromatic 18 L’homme Idéal GUERLAIN 2014 1,6 Woody Oriental 28,50% 19 Chrome AZZARO 1996 1,5 Fougere Citrus Azzaro pour 20 AZZARO 1978 1,5 Fougere Aromatic Homme Allure Homme 21 CHANEL 2004 1,4 Woody Citrus Top 30 Olfactive Sub-Family Distribution Sport 22 Gentleman GIVENCHY 2017 1,3 Woody Spicy (Market Share) Dior Homme 23 CHRISTIAN DIOR 2007 1,3 Woody Floral Intense 12,50% 12,60% 24 Fahrenheit CHRISTIAN DIOR 1988 1,2 Floral Woody 9,60% 25 Pure XS PACO RABANNE 2017 1,2 Oriental Aromatic 8,80% 7,40% 7,40% 26 Dior Homme CHRISTIAN DIOR 2005 1,2 Woody Floral 5% 4,20% 4% 27 Hugo man HUGO BOSS 1995 1,0 Fougere Fruity 28 Allure Homme CHANEL 1998 0,9 Fougere Ambery 29 Ultra Mâle JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 2015 0,9 Fougere Ambery aromatic spicy oriental fruity ambery marine chypre woody citrus floral 30 Armani Code ARMANI 2004 0,8 Woody Oriental 12 TOP 30 2017 - US YEAR OF MARKET RANKING OLFACTIVE OLFACTIVE RANKING PERFUME BRAND LAUNCH SHARE (%) 2016 FAMILY SUB-FAMILY Coco 1 CHANEL 2001 4,8 1 Chypre Fruity Mademoiselle 2,60% 2,10% 2 La Vie est Belle LANCÔME 2012 2,7 2 Floriental Woody Chance Eau 3 CHANEL 2010 2,6 3 Floral Fruity Tendre 4 Light Blue DOLCE & GABBANA 2001 2,0 4 Floral Woody 18,40% 5 Flowerbomb VIKTOR & ROLF 2005 1,9 5 Floral Oriental chypre 6 J'adore CHRISTIAN DIOR 1999 1,9 6 Floral Fruity floriental 7 Gabrielle CHANEL 2017 1,8 NEW Floral Green 8 Beautiful ESTÉE LAUDER 1985 1,7 8 Floral Floral Top 30 Olfactive Family