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VOLUME XXI FALL 1985

The quarterly journal of the Gemological Institute of America FALL 1985 Volume 21 Number 3

TABLE OF CONTENTS

EDITORIAL 129 The New Richard T. Liddicoat, jr.

FEATURE from Australia ARTICLES Terrence Coldham Pink from Australia Stephen C. Hofer The Biron Hydrothermal Synthetic Robert E. Kane and Richard T. Liddicoat, jr.

REGULAR Gem Trade Lab Notes FEATURES Gemological Abstracts Gem News Book Reviews Suggestions for Authors

ABOUT THE COVER: Of thegemstones currently coming from Australia, one of the newest and most exciting is the pink . Stephen Hofer thoroughly examined more than 100 of these stones when they weresubmitted to the GIA Gem Trade Laboratoryin New earlier this year. He reports on their distinctive and other gemological characteristics in this special "Australia" issue. The 3.53-ct (VS1) on the cover, set in a , is surrounded by 36 Australianpink diamonds (2.64 ct total weight). The intensepurple-pink heart-shaped diamondin thenecklaceis also from Australia. It weighs 0.72 ct andis complemented by 03.24-ct briolette and 9.07 ct (total weight) of other diamonds. The jewelry is courtesy of R. Esmerian, Inc., New York. Photograph 0 1985 Harold a) Erica Van Pelt-Photographers, Los Angeles. Typesetting for Gems & is by Scientific Composition, Los Angeles, CA. Color separations are by Effective Graphics, Compton, CA. Printing is by Waverly Press, Easton, MD.

a1985 Gemological Institute of America All rights reserved ISSN 0016-626X FALL 1985 Volume 21 Number 3

EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Editor Editor, Gem Trade Lab Notes STAFF Richard T. Liddicoat, Jr. Alice S. Keller C. W. Fryer Associate Editors 1660 Stewart St. Santa Monica, CA 90404 Editor, Gemological Abstracts Peter C. Keller Dona M. Dirlam D. Vincent Manson Telephone: 12 13) 829-2991 John Sinkankas Assistant Editor Editor, Book Reviews Jeffrey M. Uurbank Technical Editor Sally A. Thomas Carol M. Stockton Subscriptions Contributing Editor and Janet M. Fryer, Manager Editor, Gem News Lisa Hebenstreit, Assistant Manager John I. Koivula

PRODUCTION Art Director Production Assistant Production Assistant STAFF Susan Kingsbury Linda Manion John McCloy

EDITORIAL Robert Crowningshield Anthony R. Kampf Kurt Nassau REVIEW BOARD New York, NY Los Angeles, CA Bernardsville, N1 Pete Dunn Robert E. Kane Glenn Nord Washington, DC Los Angeles, CA Los Angeles, CA Dennis Foltz John Koivula Ray Page Santa Monica, CA Santa Monica, CA Santa Monica, CA Chuck Fryer Henry 0. A. Meyer George Rossman Santa Monica, CA West LaFayette, Indiana Pasadena, CA C. S. Hurlbut, Jr. Sallie Morton James E. Shigley Cambridge, MA San lose, CA Santa Monica, CA

SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions in the U.S.A. are priced as follows: $29.50 for one year (4 issues), $82.50 for three years (12 issues), Subscriptions sent elsewhere are $40.00 for one year, $115.00 for three years. Special annual subscription rates are available for all students actively involved in a CIA program: $24.50 U.S.A., $35.00 elsewhere. Your student number must be listed at the time your subscription is entered. Single issues may be purchased for $8.00in the U.S.A., $1 1.OO elsewhere. Discounts aregiven for bulk ordersof 1001 more of any one issue. A limited number of back issucs of C&G are also available for purchase. Please address all inquiries regarding subscriptions and the purchase of single copies or back issucs to the Subscriptions Manager.

MANUSCRIPT Gems e) Gemology welcomes the submission of articles on all aspects of the field. Please see the Suggestions for Au- SUBMISSIONS thors in the Spring 1985 issue of the journal, or contact the editor for a copy. Letters on articles published in Gems a) Gemology and other relevant matters are also welcome. COPYRIGHT Abstracting is permitted with credit to the source. Libraries are permitted to photocopy beyond the limits of U.S. copyright law for private use of patrons. Instructors are permitted to photocopy isolated articles for noncommercial AND REPRINT classroom use without fee. For other copying, reprint, or republication permission, please contact the Editor. PERMISSIONS Gems a) Gemology is published quarterly by the Gemological Institute of America, a nonprofit educational organization for the jewelry industry, 1660 Stewart St., Santa Monica, CA 90404. Application to mail at second class postage rates is pending in Santa Monica, CA 90404 and at additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Return undeliverable copies of Gems È Gemology to 1660 Stewart St., Santa Monica, CA 90404. Any opinions expressed in signed articles are understood to be the views of the authors and not of the publishers. The New Australia

or generations, Australia has been the prime producer of fine , includ- Fing the only notable black opal. Recently, it has become a major supplier of gem-quality diamonds. And Australian is unmatched in quality by that from any other source. Australia is also rich in technological re- sources: Scientists on the staff of the government's Commonwealth Scien- tific and Industrial Research Organization (CSIRO)were the first to synthe- size opal with play of color.

Today, the international gemological community is beginning to experience the full impact of Australian activities. In recognition of the major role that Australia now plays in all aspects of gemology, this issue is devoted to some of the most recent contributions of Australia to gemology. We are pleased to present comprehensive articles on the many fine sapphires of Australia, on ' the beautiful new pink diamonds from Argyle, and on the new Biron hydro- thermal synthetic emerald manufactured in Western Australia.

Now that the desert interior and Western Australia are beginning to be opened up, much more in the way of new gem discoveries may be expected. Already, we have heard of two new emerald finds in Western Australia, and a signifi- cant deposit of . The fine translucent recovered near Ayers Rock in central Australia a few years ago has also attracted considerable attention. In my opinion, Australia is an exciting new frontier that has the potential over the next few generations to become as prolific a supplier of gem materials as or .

Richard T. Liddicoat, Jr.

Editorial GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 129 SAPPHIRES FROM AUSTRALIA By Terrence Coldham

During the last 20 years, Australia has ew people realize that Australia is one of the major assumed a major role in the production of F producers of on the world market today. Yet a blue sapphire. Most of the gem material fine blue Australian sapphire (figure 1)competes favorably comes from alluvial deposits in the Anal

130 Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 Figure 1. Twofine blue sapphires, 1.11 ct and 1.61 ct, respectively, from the New England fields, New South Wales, Australia. Photo 0 Tino Hammid.

area were originally thought to be . Spo- Asia-was systematic mining resumed at Anakie. radic mining operations started in the Anakie By 1969, the Anakie fields were being fully ex- fields in the 1890s, and most of the early produc- ploited through a number of large-scale, fully tion went to tsarist Russia via German buyers. mechanized operations. Since the beginning of the The Anakie area was officially proclaimed a current decade, however, as the viable areas are mining field in 1902. Mining consisted of sinking exhausted and operating costs continue to mount, shafts or digging shallow alluvials and then wash- there has been a steady decline in production. ing the material with sieves. By 1913, two tons of Many small, semi-mechanized underground oper- sapphire and other had been removed. ations now run alongside the large, heavily mech- Single pieces of gem-quality material as large as anized workings. 500 ct were reported (Anderson, 1971).Two small The second major mining field is centered villages, Rubyvale and Sapphire, appeared on the around the towns of Inverell and Glen Innes, in fields to service the miners. northern New South Wales, and is generally re- The advent of World War I, the collapse of ferred to as the New England fields. Although sap- imperial Russia, and the elimination of German phire was first found here in 1854, mining did not buyers brought mining to a virtual standstill. Not start until many years later, and even then was until the early 1960s-with the onset of a burgeon- only sporadic until 1959. As with the Anakie ing demand for rough sapphire throughout fields, the Asian buying power in the early 1960s

Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 131 Figure 2. A miner's collection of the different-colored sapphires found at Inverell, in the New England fields, New South Wales. created favorable conditions for large-scale mech- town in Queensland and as far south as Tasmania anized mining that has continued to the present (again, see figure 3).In nearly every case, the sap- time. phires have been found in close proximity to Ce- Various attempts to mine at other localities in nozoic basalts. As mentioned above, however, in Queensland, New South Wales, and Tasmania only two areas have the deposits proved to be rich have been made, but thus far none has proved enough to allow commercial mining. viable. It is quite possible that future prospecting In most cases, the sapphire occurs in alluvial will produce new fields. gravels, termed "wash" by the miners. The gravels are associated with present-day rivers and creeks in the New England region (Department of Min- All along the eastern seaboard of the Australian eral Resources, 1983), and occur as large sheets continent are scattered remnant dissected flows that cover extensive areas dissected by the present and pipes of Cenozoic volcanics (see figure 3).The drainage pattern in the Analzie fields. most common type is alkali basalt, The sapphire occurs as individual and which in many localities contains xenocrysts of fragments that in most cases have been such as ilmenite, pleonaste, , locally concentrated, presumably by normal allu- , , corundum, and . In vial processes. Other minerals associated with 1902, a geologist with the Queensland Mines De- sapphire are found in varying proportions and in- partment reported on the new Anakie sapphire clude (in order of abundance) pleonaste (), fields, and stated that the sapphire found in the zircon, ilmenite, magnetite, olivine, , surrounding alluvials appeared to have been and amphiboles. Zircon is the only other mineral weathered out of the nearby basalts (Dunstan, that commonly occurs in gem quality. These zir- 1902). Since then, numerous occurrences of sap- cons are of "high type" and are either pale yellow phire have been discovered as far north as Cook- or reddish brown, ranging from sand-grain-sized

132 Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 particles to the occasional clear pieces of several hundred carats. Gemologically they appear to be similar to those found at the Pailin field in Cam- bodia, as described by Jobbins and Berrangd (1981). The pleonaste is usually much more abundant than the sapphire and zircon; since it has a specific gravity similar to that of sapphire, it is often used as an indicator mineral by the miner. All these minerals have been found at various localities in situ in basalt, pleonaste quite commonly and sapphire and zircon very rarely (McNevin, 1972). At certain localities, such as Lava Plains in northern Queensland (see figure 3), large amounts

1 of sapphire, along with pleonaste, have been found QUEENSLAND in soil directly overlying the basalts. The surfaces of material from this locality show no evidence of having traveled any distance from their source. However, while pleonaste xenocrysts are plentiful at Lava Plains, no xenocrysts of sapphire have been found in the basalt itself from which the soil ap- parently derives. Personal observations by the au- thor show that these deposits are very similar in rock type, mode of occurrence, type of stone, and associated minerals to those found at Prae in cen- tral Thailand. Recently, quite rich deposits of sapphire were found seven miles (11 kin) east of Inverell in what appears to be pyroclastic (volcanic ash) rocks in- terbedded with basalt flows. Accessory minerals t C I are zircon and ilmenite (Lishmund and Oakes, - NEW I 1983). SOurHl WALES - In all localities, the sapphire occurs as discrete crystals and crystal fragments, often elongated * hexagonal pyramids, and occasionally bipyramids. A Almost invariably, crystal faces and sur- 4 faces alike show evidence of corrosion and etching. Some crystals are so corroded that they appear as "^P^ ¥ long cone shapes without any suggestion of their original hexagonal cross section. For quite a long 0 tat time it was thought that the material was "water worn," but it is now believed that these surfaces are a result of chemical corrosion (figure4). These

300 O- O- Figure 3. The distribution of basalts in eastern Kilometef s Australia. Major deposits of sapphire have been ----- Stale Boundaries found in the Anakie fields (Queensland)and the New England fields (NewSouth Wales).But some bsa~ sapphire has been recovered from as far north as Cooktown (Queensland) and as far south as Tasmania. Map adapted from an original by the I Mineralogy Section of the Australian Museum. Artwork by Lisa foko.

Sapphires from Australia cated commercial mining of the alluvial deposits through the use of heavy earth-moving equipment and large throughput processing plants (figure 5). Presently, mining techniques on both fields range from hand sieving, through small one-man opera- tions that use processing plants capable of han- dling only a few cubic meters of material per hour, to large syndicates and companies that employ up to 30 men on a site and process hundreds of cubic meters per day. Figure 4,Two corundum crystals (approximately On the New England fields, the mechanized 5 ct each) from InvereII, in the New England mines dot an area of some 4,000 km2. Each miner fields. Note that the left side of the piece on the usually works a section of creek or river that is right has been protected and shows the original often hundreds of acres in area. First, samples of crystal faces. wash are taken to delineate the richer runs, and then mining proceeds in a systematic manner. In contrast, on the Anakie fields, most of the features are the same as those reported at Pailin in mining activity is contained in an area of only a (Jobbins and Berrangk, 1981) and ob- few square kilometers. Because the size of a claim served by the author in sapphire from Bo-Bloi, is restricted by the State Mining Law, the miners Chanthaburi, and Prae in Thailand. They also look tend to work almost on top of one another (figure very similar to the surface features reported on 61, and each miner must accumulate the rights to a corundum from Colombia (Keller et al., 1985). number of adjoining claims if he is to have suffi- Some minor water wearing is observed on the gem cient room to operate. However, Anakie miners material recovered from alluvials, particularly are to some extent compensated by the fact that from the Anakie fields. the wash here is usually thicker and richer in sap- Although it has been generally considered that phire than that in the New England area. the alkali basalt is the source rock for the alluvial In both areas, the gravel is normally covered by sapphire in the area, it is distinctly possible that 2-80 ft. (0.5-25 m) of barren overburden consist- the pyroclastic rocks associated with the basalts ing of fine grits and brown or black soils. This may, in fact, be the source. According to this sec- overburden is removed by either a backhoe or a ond hypothesis, the sapphires themselves crystal- bulldozer. The sapphire-bearing wash is then ex- lized originally in an unknown rock in the lower cavated and loaded into trucks for transport to the crustal/upper mantle regions and were eventually processing plant. Some areas of the Anakie fields released into a fluid phase that rose to the surface are reserved for hand miners who sink shafts up to during a period of volcanism. These fluids even- 100 ft. to reach the gem-bearing alluvials (in much tually consolidated to form the host basalt and the same manner as their predecessors operated at pyroclastic rocks. Evidence for either hypothesis is the turn of the century). somewhat conflicting and more detailed field work is necessary. Processing. On arrival at the processing plant, the Also of interest is the similarity in rock types gravel is tipped into dump boxes where it is between the Australian and Southeast Asian washed into a trommel with a high-pressure water (Jobbins and Berrangk, 1981) sapphire fields. For . Any large pieces of rock are, if necessary, bro- example, some of the basaltic rocks in Australia ken up and removed by hand from the dump box. near Inverell are very similar to those at Pailin and The trommel consists of a revolving screen that appear to be closely associated with sapphires. In usually has two different-sized meshes. The first contrast, the larger tholeiitic basalts of Australia section has a fine mesh through which sand-sized and Pailin are considered to be barren of sapphire. particles are sieved out. The mesh in the second section is usually about three-quarters to one inch MINING (2-2.5 cm) in size, and anything larger passes out The last 20 years (and, more specifically, the last of the trommel into rock bins to be returned to the 10 years) have seen the development of sophisti- excavation. The middle-sized fraction-i.e., of

134 Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 Figure y plant at Kings Plan, Inverell, in the New England fields.

Figure 6. Note how miners have Lorn up this area between Riibyvale and Sapphire in the Analzie fields.

Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 135 Figure 7. Picking out the sapphire from the coarse concentrate at an Inverell (New England fields) mine site. plus one-sixteenth inch to minus one inch from collected in bins and then used to backfill the the second mesh-passes through the trommel original excavation. After all the processed gravel down to a pulsator or jig. The trommels may have has been returned, it is covered by the original revolving tynes and high-pressure water jets inside overburden and topsoils. All water used in the to break up the gravel. In areas with concentrates mining operations is stored in dams and recircu- of , the material is often passed through a sec- lated; only clean water can be returned to the ond trommel or over a vibrating screen to make rivers. sure all the sapphire is released. At the end of each day, the concentrate in the Because of the scarcity of water on the Anakie pulsator is removed. This gravel is composed fields, many mines there use dry sieving methods. mainly of highly iron-rich material in addition to After excavation, the material is laid out to dry and the sapphire, pleonaste, zircon, and the like. The then passed through large, semi-mobile vibrating sapphires from the coarser fractions are often screens to remove sand and oversized material picked out of the concentrate at the mine site near the excavation site. The middle-sized product (figure 71. The larger volumes of medium- and is trucked to the pulsator or jig which is located fine-sized concentrates are sent to an office to be adjacent to water, usually one of the series of ponds picked out and sorted. or setting dams through which this very scarce Sorting and Grading. The first step in recovering commodity is recirculated. The pulsator is the main recovery section; the Figure 8. Fine concentrate after removal from the various models range from 18 inches to several feet pulsator. Note the abundant black pleonaste. across. The pulsator is a simple heavy-media unit that pulsates water through a screen divided by a series of riffles. The gravel is fed over the screen, and the "heavier" sapphire and other minerals col- lect in front of the riffles. The lighter material washes out over the end of the pulsator and is returned to the excavation. Large mines may have banks of several pulsators to process the different sizes. The recovery rate is usually 90% -95%, but it may be less in alluvials with a high clay content. The mining operations in the New England district are much more rigidly controlled in terms of conservation and restoration than those in Analzie. The waste gravels, sands, and silts are

Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 the sapphire from the medium- to fine-sized con- centrate (figure 8) is to dry it and pass it through a magnetic separator. This removes all the iron-rich material, black spinel, and anything else with a reasonably high magnetic attraction; it leaves a concentrate of corundum, zircon, , and other minerals that usually represents 10% of the original concentrate. This material is then washed, dried, and given to the grading staff who select out all the corundum that shows any indi- cation of being cuttable. Usually women are em- ployed to handpick this material as it is passed over (figure 9). The mirrors reflect light through the rough material so that color and flaws can be observed without the sorter having to hold each stone up to a light. All blue material found is sorted at the mine's sorting office into what is termed "mine run" par- cels; blue sapphire represents approximately 95% by weight and value of the total salable production. A mine run is the total production of all salable blue material produced in a given (arbitrary)time from the one mine. Often' these parcels are quality graded by the Figure 9. Sortingsapphire on mirrors at an Inverell miner into firsts, seconds, and thirds and then mine office. sieved into various groups. A mine-run parcel var- ies considerably in quality from one miner to the about 10% -20% of the stone over 2 ct in weight, next, and a standard price per ounce cannot be 40%-60% of medium size (0.50 to 2 ct) and applied. Variations in a mine-run parcel depend on 30% -40% of small material (0.20 to 0.50 ct). Ma- the type of stone produced in the area mined as terial in mine runs from Anakie would be, overall, well as on the type of grading adopted by the miner. of a larger particle size (20% -40% are over 2 ct). The gradingprocess at this stage is very subjective. Other such as , yellows, and parti- DESCRIPTION colored sapphires are sold separately either in The gemological properties of Australian sapphire, small lots of a few ounces or as individual stones. as determined by the author, are given in table 1. A typical Inverell mine-run parcel may have As is the case with corundum from Thailand and

- p~ - - - TABLE 1. Gemological properties of Australian sapphire.'

Specific Color Refractive gravityb Spectra Reaction to LW/SW index radiation

Light blue 1.761-1.769 0.008 4.02 Single band 455-458 nm Inert Strong band 455-460 nm Dark blue Narrow band 464-466.6 nm Green 4.00 Single line 478 nm Broad band 455-465 nrn Yellow 3.97 Inert Single line 478 nm Same as for yellow, 4.01 but less distinct 'These properties were taken lrom a small range 01 Inverell and Glen Innes stones. ~~ecificgravity was determined by the hydrostatic method (+0.02). cWhilealmost all Australian sapphire is inert, thoseshowinganorange orpink to mauve color willshow some redlluorescence when exposed to long-wave ultraviolet radiation.

Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 137 Figure 10. A variety of faceted Australian sapphire. Note that the proportion of yellow stones is much greater than is found in overall production. In fact, 90% ormore of all Australian sapphire occurs in various . Photo by D. Barnes, courtesy of the Department of Mineral Resources, New South Wales.

Cambodia, Australian stones generally have a The vast majority of gem-quality Australian higher iron content than associated sapphires, perhaps 90% by weight, occurs in vari- with metamorphic environments (Webster, 1983). ous shades of blue (again, see figure 10). These This results in a range of colors (figure 10) quite shades range from almost colorless through rich different from those found in Burma, Sri Lanka, royal blue to some that are so dark as to appear and . Analyses of sapphire from Frazers black when cut. The greater proportion occurs as Creek, Inverell, show total Fe as over 1% medium to dark material. (MacNevin, 1972). The second most common color range covers The size of individual pieces ranges from less various tones of greenish blue, and most fre- than 0.05 ct to over 1,000 ct. Stones over one inch quently occurs in a light to medium, very slightly in diameter are rarely found these days, as they are greenish blue. removed with other coarse gravel by the trommel. The two other colors that often occur are yel- On average most of the cuttable material is under 2 low and green. The yellows range from light ct in the rough state; clean stones over 10 ct are through intense yellow to strong gold (figure 11). quite rare. Bright orange stones are also encountered, though

Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 .- Figure 11. A range offine, natural-color yellow andgold sapphires from the Anakie fields. Thelarge stone in the center weighs 30 ct.

. I rarely. he greens occur in a great variety of the resultant gem can rank as one of the most shades, including yellow-green, yellowish green, beautiful of the corundum family (figure 12). and brownish green, with tones that range from Miners often collect them, and both Thai and Aus- very pale through almost black. Evenly colored tralian dealers give them to their wives or sell green, yellow, or gold of over one are quite rare, but the author has seen gem-quality rough that weighs over 300 ct. Figure 12, An approximately 6-ct parti-colored Occasionally pink, purple, and mauve stones ("wattle") sapphirefrom the New England fields. are found, but they are extremely rare. Also seen, Photo by D. Barnes, courtesy of the Department of Mineral Resources, New South Wales. but only rarely, are color-change sapphires, some of which show effects similar to those seen in alexandrite, while others change from greenish yellow to orangy pink. The coarser banding of colors such as green, blue, and yellow results in parti-colored stones, some of which are extremely attractive. This coarse banding seems to be much better developed in the Australian material than in that from other localities. One large (2,019.5 ct) piece of gold, green, and blue particolored rough was recently found. The term wattle sapphires has recently come into vogue to describe parti-colored stones that range from yellow with a touch of green to green with a touch of yellow. (Wattle, called mimosa in many countries, is Australia's national flower; it has a yellow to gold blossom with green to olive- green foliage.) When this material is cut correctly,

Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 139 large pieces-one was recorded to weigh approxi- mately 11900ct. Overall differences in color can be noted in the sapphires from the Analzie and the New England fields. The AnaIzie fields produce darker blue sap- phires and more pure green and pure yellow stones than the New England fields! which may be related to the fact that the Analzie material crystallized in a more iron-rich environment. Glen Innes) and partic~~larlyReddistone Creel

Figure 13. This 1.5-cm thin section of un HEAT TREATMENT Austruliun supphire crystul, CUL ut right angles to The color of Australian sapphire is often greatly the c-axis, shows color bonding purullel to the affected by sillz. The blue shades are particularly crystul faces. prone to be silky to varying degrees. Evenly sillzed stones may be cut as star sapphire) but more com- monly the silk mars the beauty of the cut stone by them to friends) so the general retail customer making it appear dull and/or oily green (figure 14). rarely gets a chance to see fine wattle sapphires. The silk usually appears as very fine) needle-like Color banding is a very common feature of inclusions oriented parallel to the Australian sapphire) and even very uniformly col- of the host corundum. Sometimes the individual ored stones will show fine banding under the needles cannot be resolved even under very high microscopej however) patches of color without magnification. The most common type of silk has clear planar boundaries are rare. The banding oc- a whitish appearance and only sometimes pro- curs in two directions (MacNevin) 1972))the first duces chatoyancyj it is most likely [Nassau) being parallel to the c-axis)which often results in a 1984). hexagonally or trigonally banded cross section in The presence of sillz in the blue material re- which the colors generally are lighter toward the sults in a gridwork of reflective surfaces through- center of the crystal (figure 13).The second type out all or part of the stone that interferes with the occurs at right angles to the c-axis and generally body color and is probably one of the most com- grades from darker at the base of the crystal to mercially important features of Australian sap- lighter at the top. phires. When light enters sapphire! which is dou- In the blue material) darker and lighter shades bly refractive) it is split into two wavesj in ALE- of blue may alternate randomly with colorless or tralian blue sapphire) one ray is pure blue and the very pale yellow bands. As mentioned above) other is blue-green. The effect of the sillz is to coarse to very coarse banding gives rise to parti- reflect and scatter the two rays as they pass colored sapphire. When the bands are wide enough through the stone) such that the blue and blue- to give a clear separation between colors such as green dichroic colors merge into one unattractive green and gold or blue and yeI10w~the effect is oily greenish blue color. This effect can be so quite beautifulj however) alternating fine bands of coinplete in very evenly silked stones that the green and blue cause a rather unpleasant green- color is the same regardless of the orientation of blue parti that along with black or heavily in- the stone. cluded blue material makes up the lower quality Ba~icaIly~heat treatment the silk end of Australian commercial production. by forcing it back into solid solution within its Star sapphire is also found) the most common of which is black or material very similar to that from Bang Kha Cha in Thailand. Asteriated *Us~iolIysopphire is cut with the toble ut r~ghtangles to the GOXIS to get t11e best blue When the stone is viewed thrvugl~ stones also occur in blue! blue-gray! and occasion- theside (e.g.,through theg~rdlerotherthon tl~rvughthe table), ally green and gold. Stars may occur in particularly u greener color IS norrnolly seen, t1111sthe tern] side color.

Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 host; a subsequent quick cooling (1.e.) in a few hours) traps the silk there. Without heat treatment to clear the stone) the mining of Australian sap- phire would not be commercially viable. The treatment of silk in sapphire appears to have started about 25-30 years ago in Europe, where it was quietly practiced by a few people. At that stage) the demand for Australian sapphire was smalll and mechanized mining had just begun. Twenty years ago it was found that such pro- cesses worked very well on Australian sapphire, and Thai dealers-who had become very adept at heat treatment-started visiting Australia to buy. This increase in demand prompted increased pro- duction that resulted in the large-scale mecha- Figure 14. This single piece of Auslralian sapphire nized mining that continues to the present day. was cut in half and the pjece on the right heat Most of the Australian blue sapphire is treated treated. Note that while there is improvement in in Thailand. The method for treatment of blue clarity and color, the change caused by heat Australian sapphire is quite simple) although it treatment is not as dramatic as that commonly differs significantly from the treatment of the Sri seen in white or light-colored Srj Lankan Lankan material (which is done for the purpose of sapphires that are ~urnedblue by heat treatment. darkening color rather than removing silk). The Photo 0 Tino Hammid. rough Australian stones are first thoroughly washed afid any iron stains are removed by acid. The rough\stones are then packed in a white glazed chamber of the furnace and then a small amount of porcelain crucible and the lid is sealed with a coke is added until a glowing base is obtained (fig- high-temperature cement. ure 161. The whole chamber is then filled with Some years backl a great variety of chemicals coke and the crucible nestled into a hollow at the were placed in the crucible with the sapphire! in- top of the pile. A high-temperature brick cap is cluding cobalt salts) fluxes, chloride salts) and the added to narrow the gas exit to about one-third the like. While such treatment resulted in stones that diameter of the air inlet. An air blower is used to appeared to be a bright cobalt blue) it was soon force air up through the coke. realized that the effect was only superficial, a coat- Generally) a burn takes from 45 minutes to one ing that was removed in faceting. These days, if hour before the flame starts to die. As the coke any chemicals are used at all, they are fluxes such burns from below! the crucible moves down into as borax, and the rough stones are simply wet with the hottest part of the furnace. It is very difficult to a mild solution before treatment. The effect of the measure the actual temperature reached) as a flux after cooking is to slightly glaze the surface of pyrometric probe placed in the center of the cham- the stone, which results in brighter-looking rough. ber would be damaged by the movement of the It is hard to ascertain if the flux has any internal coke and the fluxing action of the slag that results effect. from the burning coke. The author's attempts at After the porcelain crucible has been prepared) such measurements indicate that the hottest tem- it is sealed (with clay) into a slightly larger black perature is in the area of 1600°-1700° assay crucible. Sometimes fine charcoal dust may As soon as the blower is turned off) the fumace be placed between the two crucibles, depending on is sealed at both inlet and outlet and is left to cool the type of stone (i.e.)its origin and general ), to for from two to 12 hours or more. Tongs are then keep any from reaching the stone during used to remove the crucible (figure 17).The opera- the burning. While this practice used to be com- tion results in the stones being both heated and mon) most treaters no longer feel it is necessary. cooled in a reducing environment. Traditionallyl the fumace is a simple coke- Although the body color of the material may fired one (figure 151, around four and a half feet ( 1.5 be affected, such changes are usually slight and) in m) tall, First a wood fire is built inside the inner most cases) detrimental. The most common prob-

Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 141 -F~re-br~ckcap

H~ghtempf~re-br~ck

,Area of maximum combuslion

AI~blower

Figure 16. This diagram of the furnace depicted in fig~~re15 ill~zstra~esthe process used to heat treal Australian blue sapphire. Artwork by R. Brightman.

Fig~~re15, A Thai furnace typical of those used to treat rough Australian sapphire. lem is that unsuitable timeltemperature parame- ters may result in a slight to fairly obvious darken- ing of the stone. Any leakage of air into the cruci- ble in the final stages of the burn or on cooling generally strengthens slightly any green hue that was originally in the stone. Up until about 10 years ago, a lot of innova- tions were tried with length of treatment and the Figure 17. The inner crucible has been broken lilzel but over the last decade) the procedure for open after treatment of these A~~straliunbl~ze removal of silk has become more or less standard. sapphires was completed. The only recent innovation is the use of gas-fired furnaces. Once the process has been mastered and minor adjustments are made for the particular type tered. Usually the green) yellow-gold) and parti- of stone [e.g.) colorl density of color) silkinessl and colored stones are heated in an electric furnace in locality of origin-Anakie or New England fields) crucibles open to the air (an oxidizing environ- being treatedl the results are quite predictable. Ex- ment) inside the chamber. perts at using this type of furnace have many sub- tle variations in their methods) which results in INCLUSIONS different people specializing in particular types of Very little detailed study has been done on inclu- stone. sions in Australian sapphire. As most of the rough Sapphire other than blue is only occasionally stone is processed in Thailand) it has been difficult treated) usually to remove silk. The effect on color for researchers outside of Australia to acquire ma- is usually not great) although occasional terial that can be clearly identified as Australian. strengthening of yellow and gold hues is encoun- Microscopic examination of Australian material

142 Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 for this study revealed inclusions similar to those rutile but rather to a needle-like precipitate of iron reported for Thai and Cambodian sapphire and oxide (FeTi02)with or without lath-like may reflect their apparently similar geologic ori- particles of a brown material, possibly gins. (Moon and Phillipsl 1984). For example! of feldspar crystals re- Different types of inclusions tend to predomi- ported by Gunawardene and Chawla (1984) for nate in sapphire from different localities. For ex- blue sapphire from Kanchanaburi, and by Gubelin ample! bright red crystallites (uranium pyro- (1974)for sapphire from Thailand! appear identical chlore?)commonly occur in stones from the New to inclusions commonly seen in Australian sap- England fields. The sapphires found at the Anakie phire (figure 18).Positive identification of feldspar fields commonly contain inclusions, as yet un- as an inclusion in Australian sapphire was re- identified! that are dark brown to opaque euhedral ported by Schubnel(l972).He described colorless platelets and stubby rods of what appear to be types transparent crystals between 20-400 microns! of and horneblende, respectively. sometimes euhedral and sometimes surrounded Other internal features commonly encoun- by circular fractures. These incl~lsionsalso sound tered are very well-developed polysynthetic similar to those shown in figure 18. twinning and fine "fingerprint1' inclusions. The Also very common in Australian sapphires are author is at present embarking on a detailed study euhedral to subeuhedral bright red to brownish red of Australian sapphires in which electron micro- crystals, sometimes associated with wing-shaped analysis will be used to identify individual inclu- liquid "feathers1!. They may sometimes have trails sions. of bubbles streaming from them like comet tails (figure 191, The red crystals look similar to those DISTRIBUTION TO identified as uranium pyrochlore in Pailin sap- THE MARKET phire by Gusbelin (1974).Such "comet tails1' have The greatest proportion of Australian production also beenobserved coming from other inclusionsl is purchased by visiting buyers from Thailand. The particularly from colorless crystals of high relief price is reached by bargaining between the buyer that may well be zircon. and the producer, and takes into account previous Unlike the silk in blue star sapphire! selling prices! apparent quality of the stone! pro- in black star material does not appear to be due to portion of large stones! and the overall size of the parcel. The Thais buy anything from individual stones to mine-run parcels. Until two years agol it Figure 18, This colorless euhedral cryslal was not uncommon to hear of 10 separate buying surrounded by a tension halo and accompanied syndicates on the fields at one time. The galva- by a "comet tail" is a common inclusion in Australian blue sapphire. Photo by B. Scheos, Diamond Laboratory Services; magnified 40 X. Figure 19. A subeuhedral reddish brown crystal in blue Australian sapphire from Glen Innes. Such inclusions are very common in blue Australian sapphire, either done or accompanied by s~nall ljquid feathers and "comet tails.'' Photo by B. Scheos, Diamond Laboratory Services; magnified 40 X.

Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall I985 143 Figure 20. 'The office oj a Thai sapphire buyer on the Anakie fields. nized iron offices of the Asian buyers at Rubyvale to work only certain sizes or) because of their par- are an accepted part of the scenery (figure 20). ticular heat-treatment skillsl only one type of Apart from the inaterial purchased by the Thai stone) e.g.' all darker or lighter material. b~~yers'a small amount of rough stones are sold to Since the Thais first began buying Australian European and Australian cutters. sapphire in the late 1960~~the average combined Thailand) as a result of its own sapphire mines' annual production from the New England and the has long been a center for sapphire processing and Anakie fields has risen from $1 million [Aus- marketing. Now) with little production from Thai- tralian) per year in 1965 to more than $50 million land's own mines and the virtual cessation of min- in 1977. While the rise in production has not been ing in Cambodia' Australian production supplies steady in recent years (see figure 21)) it has not the raw material to keep a large number of lapidar- dropped below $25 million since 1971. ies and gem merchants going. Until the Thais began processing Sri Lankan sapphire as well a few DISCUSSION years ago' it is estimated that some 80% by weight In almost a11 cases) Australian miners sell their and value of Thailand-cut sapphire exports were of raw material without the knowledge that would Australian origin. Even with the present drop in enable them to assess the value of the finished productionl Australian sapphire could well ac- goods (likea farmer selling wheat and not knowing count for at least 50Y0 of the carat weight of Thai- the price of flour]. The miners cannot be blamed land's total exports of sapphire (pers. comm. with for this' as they were not' and still are not (to major Thai merchants). varying degrees)' familiar with the changes that Usuallyl when the rough parcels arrive in can be made in their raw materials by heat treat- Bangk01z~they are split up and sold in smaller lots ment. to the cutting factories. Oftenl the parcels are of This situation has allowed the Thais to virtu- selected rough stone to suit the particular talents ally monopolize the buying of Australian rough) of the individual . Some lapidaries prefer purchasing approximately 95% of the total pro-

144 Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 duction. While various Thai buying groups com- At the lower end of the scale, all poor-quality pete against one another, it is interesting to note goods in Thailand are commonly referred to as that, historically, overall prices offered are always Australian, whether they are Thai or Australian in only slightly above average production costs. The origin. This has caused Australian sapphire to gain cut-stone business in Thailand is highly competi- an ill-deserved reputation as being of poorer qual- tive with an ever-continuing "price war" between ity than Thai sapphire. merchants. Business is generally conducted on a In addition to blue sapphire, Australia pro- 'high turnover, low profit" principle. This has duces some magnificent gold, yellow, and green kept prices very low. To reduce their overhead, sapphires. Because these goods are so rare in rela- lapidaries cut the rough stone for maximum tion to the blue production, and because their po- weight return and the least labor time required to tential is easily assessed in the rough form, they produce acceptable goods. Unfortunately, visiting are usually cut and marketed in Australia. How- cut-stone buyers are prepared to buy such goods, ever, all the yellow, green, and parti-colored sap- because they in turn need to be competitive in phire rough produced would not represent 1% by their own local markets with other mechants who weight or value of blue production. As beautiful as buy stock from Bangkok. Therefore, the full po- they are, they are only of very minor economic tential of a very large amount of excellent gem importance to the miners. material is not realized because of poor cutting. Almost any jewelry store in the world with a In addition, better-quality Australian sapphire reasonable range of jewelry set with sapphires is is often not sold as such in Thailand. Quite a con- bound to have within its doors an Australian sap- siderable amount of the best Australian material is phire, and perhaps as much as 80% of all the smal- sold mixed into parcels of Sri Lankan, Cambodian, ler, medium to dark blue stones come from "Down or Thai sapphire. While Thai merchants increas- Under." ingly refer't6 average and better-quality goods as Australian, many of their customers still insist on FUTURE PROSPECTS selling such goods on their home market as Thai or The aerial extent of the basalts of eastern Australia Cambodian-in origin when, in fact, they know and is huge (approximately 350,000 km2) compared ask for Australian goods when buying in Bangkok. with Southeast Asia (90,000 km2), so the potential

Figure 21. Production of Australian rough sapphire from the Anakie and New England fields, 1892 -1 984, as compiled by B. C. O'Leary (1985) from the Australian Bureau of Statistics. Note that the production returns on which these figures are based (given in Australian dollars) are only provided by the larger producers. The author suggests that actual production may be twice that indicated. Also, the values do not take into account increases in unit sellingprices; today's market value of pre- 1924 production would be considerably greater than the graph indicates. The current value Production of Rough Sapphire from Anakie and New England Fields, 1892-1984 of the Australian dollar is approximately US$0.75.

Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 145 for the discovery of new, economic sapphire fields Anakie approximately 60%, in the last five years is good. Considering the similarity of the deposits (pers. comm. with miners). and the types of gemstones produced in both Aus- It will be interesting to see what happens when tralia and Southeast Asia, it is surprising that only the effects of this reduced production filter down very few pieces of ruby have ever been found. Per- to the marketplace. In order for there to be an haps future prospecting will uncover deposits increase in mining activity, prices will have to rise similar to those of Cambodia and Thailand. considerably, to such an extent that current mar- During the last few years, however, there has ginally profitable deposits will become viable been a reduction in sapphire mining at both the propositions. Anakie and the New England fields. This is due to There is also the possibility that the virtual several factors and, at this stage, it is difficult to monopoly that the Thais have over Australian determine whether or not it will continue. Specifi- rough purchases may be eroded in the future. As cally, a number of presently known reserves ap- the number of miners is reduced, there is more pear to have been mined out. Also, the last few chance of regulation, either self-imposed or years have seen a rapid rise in fuel, labor, and government-enforced, of rough-sapphire market- equipment costs. As there has been no major in- ing techniques. This, combined with an increased crease in demand or in prices due to the recent worldwide knowledge of heat-treatment methods general world recession, many operators-both and a demand for better-quality cutting, could re- large and small-have stopped mining. Current sult in larger volume markets for rough stones production levels from New England are estimated within Australia and internationally at centers to have dropped approximately 40%, and at other than Thailand.

REFERENCES Anderson 0.(1971) A century of sapphire mining. Queensland Cretaceous/Tertiary diatremes in New South Wales. Geo- Government Mining Journal, February, pp. 41 -5 1. logical Survey of New South Wales, Quarterly Notes, No. Department of Mineral Resources, New South Wales (1983) 53, pp. 23 -27. Sapphires in New South Wales (brochure). MacNevin A.A. (1972)Sapphires in the New England District Dunstan B. (1902)The sapphire fields of Anakie. Report, Geo- of New South Wales. Records of the Geological Survey of logical Survey of Queensland. New South Wales, Vol. 14, Part 1, pp. 19-36. Gubelin E. (1974)Internal World of Gemstones. ABC Editions, Monteagle D.B. (1979) The Sapphire Fields 1879-1979. City Zurich, . Printing Works, Rockhampton. Gunawardene M., Chawla S.S. (1984) Sapphires from Kan- Moon A.R., Phillips M.R. (1984)An electron microscopy study chanaburi Province, Thailand. Journal of Cemmology, Vol. of exsolved phases in natural black Australian sapphire. 19, No. 3, pp. 228-239. Micro and Microscopica Acta, Vol. 15, No. 3, pp. 143- 146. Jobbins E.A., Berrangi J.P. (1981)The Pailin ruby and sapphire Nassau K. (19841Gemstone Enhancement. Butterworths, Lon- gemfield, Cambodia. Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 17, No. 8, don, ~n~land. pp. 555-567. Schubnel H.I. (19721Pierres Precieuses. Dans le Monde. Paris. Keller P.C., Koivula J.I., Jara G. (1985) Sapphires from the Webster R. (1983)'~ems: Their Sources, ~escri~tionsand Mercaderes-Rio Mayo area, Cauca, Colombia. Gems ft) Identification, 4th ed. Revised by B. W. Anderson, Gemology, Vol. 21, No. 1, pp. 20-25. Butterworths, London, England. Lishmund S.R., Oakes G.M. (1983) Diamonds, sapphires, and

146 Sapphires from Australia GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 PINK DIAMONDS FROM AUSTRALIA By Stephen C. Hofer

During the first few months of 1985, the iamonds with a pink body color have long been New York office of the GIA Gem Trade D considered one of the rarest color varieties of dia- Laboratory examined more than 150 gem- mond. Their rarity is due to the fact that pink diamonds are quality fancy pink diamonds, most of known to occur in only a few mines throughout the world, which had similar color, spectra, and none of these mines has ever proved to be a steady luminescence, color zoning, surface commercial source for gem-quality pinks. The famous al- textures, and inclusions. This dramatic increase in the number of pink diamonds luvial deposits in southern (stretching eastward from offered in the trade recently, along with the the Deccan Plateau highlands) produced a limited quantity fact that a great majority exhibit similar of pinks during the active mining years in the 17th cen- physical properties, suggested a new source tury. The many alluvial deposits throughout Brazil have of pink dianionds. This observation, historically been a notable but infrequent source of pinks, together with information received from and in recent years Brazil has boasted a small production of several diamond dealers to the effect that pinks from the area around Diamantina (S. Moskal, pers. pink diamonds had been recovered from the comm., 1984). Several Russian and African deposits- Australian deposits, suggests that most or including the Williamson mine in Tanzania, a kimberlite all of the above-mentioned stones deposit known as the Mwadui pipe-have also contributed originated in Australia. This article reports to the sporadic output of pink diamonds worldwide. Usu- on the gemological properties of these "new" pink diamonds and describes a ally, though, these deposits have yielded no more than a number of characteristics that, seen in few carats of gem-quality pink stones at a time. It is there- combination in a stone, are indicative of fore quite unusual to encounter parcels of natural pink Australian origin. diamonds. In fact, the number of natural fancy pink dia- monds (152)examined in the first three months of 1985 at GIA's New York Gem Trade Laboratory represents more than the total number of pink diamonds examined in any ABOUT THE AUTHOR previous year. According to diamond dealers who handled Mr. Hofer, formerly senior staff gemologist with the the rough material, the stones were from the recent pro- Gem Identification Department at the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory, Inc., New York, is currently an ductions of the newly discovered Argyle deposits in independent consultant residing in Canton, CT. northwestern Australia (A. Arslanian, A. Bronstein, E. El- Acknowledgments: The author wishes to thank zas, W. Goldberg, pers. comms., 1985). Their information R. Crowningshield and 0.Hargett of the GIA Gem favored the notion that a significant number of these small Trade Laboratory, Inc., for their many helpful suggestions. Special thanks go to the following, stones were being fashioned by skillful cutters from larger, who made the stones available for study and helped "lower quality" rough pink diamonds. In one example, the establish the origin of this material: A. Arslanian, author examined a 0.38-ct round brilliant of fancy purplish B. Bogel, A. Bronstein, E. Elzas, R. Esmerian, S. Goldberg, W. Goldberg, Y. Mendelbaum, and pink color, heavily included, that was reportedly cut from L. Wolf. the "cleanest area available from within a 2.50-ct rough Unless otherwise noted, the photomicrographs are Australian stone" (E. Elzas, pers. comm., 1985). by the author. In an effort to characterize this new material, the au- 0 7 985 Gemological Institute of America thor made a number of observations and conducted several

Pink Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 147 diamonds revealed a number of distinctive charac- teristics, including an unusual body color that can be loosely described as "smoky purplish pink" (figure 11, characteristic spectral absorption pat- terns, similar fluorescent and phosphorescent re- actions, distinctive color zoning, and irregular sur- face and internal features with a pitted texture that appears "frosted" or "sugary," in addition to well- formed colorless crystal inclusions. The and specific gravity measurements on all stones in this study were found to be within the normal range for diamonds.

Color. Of the 138 pink diamonds color graded dur- ing this study, nearly all had a body color strong enough to be in the "fancy" grade, a small percent were "fancy light," and only a very few were con- sidered "light" pink. The fact that most of the stones-even round brilliants (figure 2)-had a color strong enough to be graded "fancy" is unu- sual, considering that the majority of pink dia- monds examined in the laboratory previous to this study were in the "faint" through "fancy light" grades (R. Crowningshield, pers. comm., 1985). Diamonds in the pink color family often con- tain secondary colors in addition to the primary Figure 1. These examples of Australian pink pink color, referred to as modifiers. Modifying diamonds from the study group illustrate the colors such as orange, purple, and brown are com- subtle differences among the characteristic mon in pinks; gray is also seen as a modifier, but hues. The stones range in size from 0.20 to less often. The assortment of natural pinks in fig- 0.37 ct. Photo OTino Hammid. ure 1 illustrates the variety of color seen in the pinks examined in this study: ranging from pink gemological tests on 138 of these unusual pink through purplish pink and including some with diamonds. While there appears to be no one feature brownish overtones. by which these stones can be distinguished, there Most of the 138 stones when viewed separately are several characteristics that, when they appear appeared to contain some purple (again, see figure in combination, indicate that a is of 1).However, when several stones were viewed side Australian origin. by side and table-down, the differences in color- including the subtle nuances of brown-were rec- GEMOLOGICAL PROPERTIES ognizable. In many of the purplish pink gems, On reviewing the available literature, it became these hints of brown were so weak and not readily apparent that relevant gemological information on observable face-up that they were not mentioned pink diamonds is sparse and often articles or notes in the color grade; rather, such stones were graded on pink diamonds are based on observations of one as purplish pink. In the experience of the Gem stone. Therefore, we were pleased that our clients Trade Laboratory, this unique combination of a were willing to give us the opportunity to study a very weak "smoky" brown together with varying large selection of these pink diamonds. Consequently, several gemological tests were conducted by the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory on Figure 2. This contains a total of 138 pink diamonds (ranging from 0.04 to 2.65 ct) 14.80 ct of Australian pink diamonds, including that had been cut from Australian rough. The test- 143 brilliants. Only the 5.57-ct pear-shaped drop ing and initial observations of several of these pink is from Brazil. Photo courtesy of R. Esmerian, lnc.

148 Pink Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 amounts of purple is not often seen in natural pink Africa [Raal, 1958).Raal's study of pink diamonds diamonds and thus helps the gemologist recognize states that "the strength of the band at 550 nm and differentiate these diamonds from others in varies considerably and is correlated with the in- the pink color family. tensity of coloration of the diamond" (p. 846). Ex- The intensity of the pink color in the dia- aminations and testing of natural pink diamonds monds in this study is also unusual and is exem- at the Gem Trade Laboratory supports and con- plified by a 0.72-ct fancy purple-pink gem that firms this previously published observation. exhibited such a strong color saturation that it was Further study of pink-diamond spectra was outside the range of colors normally associated made by comparing the spectra of the two dia- with natural pink diamonds (see cover).In fact, the monds in the present study that exhibit the color is comparable in strength to that seen in greatest visual color difference (again, see figure 4). treated pinks, which have been referred to as The absorption curves are similar in appearance- "cranberry" pink. Also included in this study that is, both resemble spectral absorption curves group were two diamonds that were graded as recorded for diamonds in the pink color family brown-pink that retained an attractive face-up (Raal, 1958). However, it can be stated that the color. absorption spectra recorded on all pink diamonds

Spectral Analysis. The optical absorption spectra Figure 4. Optical absorption curves of two were observed with a Beck hand-held prism spec- Australian pink diamonds from the study group. troscope first at room temperature and then at low Spectrum A (lower)is recorded from an intense temperature by resting the diamonds on an alumi- 1.64-ctpurple-pink stone. Spectrum B (upper)is num viewing block cooled with dry ice [Hofer and from a 1.93-ct brown-pink diamond. Manson, 1981).All the diamonds examined in this study showed the familiar 415-nm (Cape)absorp- tion line in the region. In addition, a weak "smudge" was observed at about 520 to 580 nm in the green spectral region of two vivid purple-pink stones (figure 3). Further testing with a Pye Unicam SP8-400 dual-beam spectrophotometer confirmed both ab- sorption features (see spectra A and B in figure 4). The absorption strength of the 415-nm line at room temperature varied from weak to moderate and tended to be stronger in the purple-pinks. The broad absorption feature centered at approxi- mately 550 nm correlates with the position and strength of the "smudge" seen in the hand spectro- scope. This band at 550 nm was first noted in the spectra of pink, purple, and brown diamonds from

Figure 3, Drawing of the absorption spectrum recorded (at low temperature) from the 0.72-ct fancypurple-pink heart-shaped stone shown on the cover.

Âviolel ÑÑà vb -+blue Ñà bg-)- green -j- yg + y Â¥(o -j- red -/ 400 500 600 700

ll~llll~~lll~ll~l~ 450 550 650 750 (nm)

150 Pink Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 Figure 5. An obvious pink grain line as viewed Figure 6. This 5 x view inside an Australian pink through the pavilion of a colorless diamond at diamond shows the concentrated areas of 10 x magnification. Note the difference in minute pink grain lines. Note the pink "patches" appearance as the angle of observation changes. of color. Photo by R. Kana lines (referred to by some diamond graders as "pink from this study are markedly different from the graining") appears to be concentrated along paral- spectra of treated pink diamond as observed in the lel, "needle-like" directions that alternate with hand spectroscope (Liddicoat, 198 1, p. 193). colorless areas (figure 5; Kane, 1982).In most dia- a*, monds, these distinctive color-zoning features are Luminescence Reactions. All of the diamonds usually very faint or are sparsely distributed from the study group were exposed to ultraviolet throughout the crystal and therefore lack the po- radiationin a darkened room: for each the color tential in most cases to impart a strong pink color and the strength of the fluorescent glow were to the diamond when cut and viewed face-up. noted. The varied from a very weak to By comparison, the diamonds in this study, the a very strong blue when exposed to long-wave (366 majority of which have a very obvious pink color nm)ultraviolet radiation and from none to a mod- face-up, have numerous minute pink grain lines erate blue when exposed to short-wave (254 nm) that are more closely spaced than has been ob- ultraviolet radiation. In addition, a yellow phos- served in most diamonds with pink graining exam- phorescence was noted in diamonds that fluo- ined previously. At low magnification, the pink resced very strong blue, and virtually no phospho- graining appears very fine and close-knit, occur- rescence was seen in diamonds that had a weaker ring throughout the entire stone or, more com- blue fluorescence. monly, with the grain lines grouped together as patchy areas of pink (figure 6). The color in these EXAMINATION WITH THE MICROSCOPE areas looks similar to strokes of pink watercolor A binocular microscope was used to examine all paint on paper and is referred to by the author as 138 stones at 5x to 75x magnification. The "brush stroke" graining. The minute pink grain stones were examined for color zoning and distri- lines that comprise these "brush stroke" areas are bution of color, birefringence patterns, surface and so slender and so closely spaced together that they internal features and their textures, and inclu- are extremely difficult to resolve under high mag- sions. nification. The most satisfactory results in exam- ining these features are obtained by using low- Color Distribution and Zoning. Generally speak- power magnification and a shadowing technique ing, the color in pink diamonds is unevenly dis- to accentuate the details (Koivula, 1982).The con- tributed throughout the body of the stone. The centrated patches of grain lines (figure 7) produce color occurs along narrow directions or zones the overall appearance of strong pink color seen in known as grain lines. When viewed at various an- these diamonds. gles under magnification, the color in the grain An early study (Raal, 1958)proposed that man-

Pink Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 ganese causes the color in pink diamonds, but this coincided in strength with the pink graining (fig- theory has since been refuted (du Preez, 1965). ure 8).This confirms the observations of previous Current explanations for the cause of pink color in studies that birefringence at grain lines is more diamonds involve defects in the atomic structure distinct than any other form of birefringence (Or- that result from gliding (thevery slight movement lov, 1977). It should be noted, however, that a of atoms along the octahedral direction) as a result brightly colored linear pattern only indicates that a of plastic deformation (Orlov, 1977). To confirm diamond has strain characteristic of plastic defor- this and correlate these "defects" with the color in mation, and is not proof that a pink diamond is the pink grain lines, it is necessary to observe the from Australia. birefringence pattern of diamonds. Surface Textures and Forms. Irregular "frosted" Birefringence. Birefringence, or the strength of cracks and narrow voids or channels with double refraction, is virtually nonexistent in a rough or "pitted" texture on the surface of the strain-free, unincluded diamond (diamond is iso- stone are considered to be very characteristic of the tropic). However, most diamonds show some Australian material (figure 9). R. Liddicoat (pers. anomalous birefringence as a result of included comm., 1985) saw large lots of rough during a re- crystals, various growth irregularities, or because cent visit to Australia and reported that nearly all they have been subjected to an epigenetic event the rough had an irregular "frosted" surface that such as plastic deformation (exposure to extreme resembles etching. This observation was further temperature/pressure conditions after formation), substantiated by R. Buonomo (pers. comm., 19851, as discussed by Lang (1967). Studying birefrin- who examined recent productions from the Argyle gence patterns in diamonds gives the gemologist a deposits at the Central Selling Office in London. clue as to how strain is distributed within a dia- His description of the Australian material noted mond. the surface textures as appearing "frosted" or Birefringence can be examined with a micro- "sugary" to the unaided eye. The presence of simi- scope fitted with polarizing filters by holding the lar features on the pink diamonds in the study diamond in tweezers culet-to-table and viewing sample is consistent with the Australian origin through the stone's pavilion at an oblique angle in reported for these stones. transmitted or diffused transmitted light. With the Researchers studying the process of etching diamond so positioned between the crossed po- have established that very strong heating of dia- laroid plates, the pattern of interference colors, monds in situ can lead to the action of dissolution their strength (low-order grays up through high- (process of dissolving) and consequently etch fea- order bright colors), and their coincident location tures (Frank and Puttick, 1958). As dissolution around inclusions or grain lines can be observed. proceeds, the surface-etching textures develop in All the pink diamonds in this study revealed a linear pattern of bright interference colors that Figure 8. A 10 x view inside the same stone as in figure 7, using polarized light, shows the typical Figure 7. Needle-like pink grain lines can be seen banded or linear birefringence pattern that cutting across an irregular pale pink color zone in signifies internal strain in the diamond, an Australian diamond. Magnified 10 x. coincidental with the grain lines.

152 Pink Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 Figure 9. A cleavage crack that has uneri Figure 1.1. Etching that proceeds along a zone of naturally etched appears "frosted," similar to weakness in a diamond can propagate in many worn beach . Note the extent of the etching directions inside the gem, resulting in many inward and the open void at the girdle. unusually shaped voids or hollow channels. Magnified 10 X. Magnified 25 X.

various stages. Starting as small pits (weak etch- Figure 10. The early stages of etching are evident ing), they subsequently develop into frosted planes on a flat cleavage planeinside thispink diamond. and eventually, with prolonged heat, result in nar- Note the triangular markings that resemble row voids (highly etched channels) resembling trigons, which are actually triang~ilaretch pits cracks (Herman, 1965; Orlov, 1977). (Orlov, 1977' "/lagnified 45 x. The various stages of etching noted by these workers is similar to that seen in the pinks ex- amined in this study. For example, some of the diamonds had etch features seen on unpolished surfaces (naturals) resembling smooth "frosted" glass that suggest early stages of etching. Various gradual stages up to intensive etching were also seen to occur on the surface and along fractures in several cut diamonds (figure 10). Where etching has proceeded along a cleavage direction, the etch- ing appears to widen and deepen the cleavage. These etch features were thus seen to propagate inward in the diamond, resulting in a network of unusual voids and channels (figure 11).When such channels intersect, they seriously affect the dura-

Pink Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 Figure 12. A part of the original surface on the girdle of this pink diamond shows evidence of "frosted" etching. Note the small amount of dirt or polishing material that has remained intact in Figure 13. This cluster of colorless, polyhedral, the narrow section parallel to the girdle plane. solid crystal inclusions (possibly olivine) in pink Magnified 20 X. diamond appears in moderate to high relief in dark-field illumination. Magnified 20 X. bility of the diamond and often result in breakage. In addition, narrow etch channels open at the sur- project in northwest Australia "produce a charac- face are commonly filled with a dark material, teristic pink diamond, which is likely to be the possibly from the polishing process or simply from signature of the mine over the next few years" dirt, which can darken the appearance of the voids (Mcllwraith, 1984). (figure 12). The sudden occurrence of increased numbers of natural pink diamonds in the gem market rein- Other Inclusions. Of the 138 pinks examined in forces the idea that continued mining and recovery this study, all of which had considerable pink efforts may significantly augment the tradi- graining and showed evidence of etching, the ma- tionally limited supply of natural fancy-colored jority (more than 90%) also contained numerous diamonds annually recovered. small, solid, colorless, polyhedral crystal inclu- The gemological and microscopical findings sions (figure 13). Microscopic study of these in- reported in this article suggest that there are sev- clusions showed that they did not have a charac- eral features that are characteristic of pink dia- teristic ; rather, they assumed the monds from Australia: their intense purplish pink morphology of the host diamond. They are very color, the concentrated patches of "pink graining," similar in appearance to the colorless olivine in- luminescence, birefringence, a "frosted" surface, clusions commonly seen in diamonds found in and included small, colorless crystals. While no kimberlite deposits (Mitchell and Giardini, 1953; one or two of these features alone would provide Hall and Smith, 1984).Because such inclusions are proof of the stone's origin, the occurrence of sev- common in diamonds found at various locations, eral of these features in a pink diamond would they cannot be considered conclusive proof of Aus- strongly suggest that the stone came from the Aus- tralian origin. However, colorless crystals when tralian mines. observed in a natural pink diamond with the pre- viously described color, spectra, luminescence, graining and surface features can be considered indicative of Australian origin. Editor's Note: In August 1985, the GIA Gem Trade Lab in New York wasinformed that certain brownish pink diamonds from Australia improve in color with repeated heat CONCLUSION treatment (not identifiable by known gemological tests). The author was not able to obtain information on Somewhat similar behaviorin brownish pink diamonds has the abundance and availability of these Australian been reportedpreviously (Gem Trade Lab Notes, Gems & Gemology, Vol. 19, 1983, p.44). At the same time, it was pink diamonds. It has been reported in the reported that the Australian material has become much literature, however, that deposits at the Argyle scarcer during the past four tofive months.

154 Pink Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 REFERENCES Berman R. (1965)Physical Properties of Diamond. Clarendon hancement for gemological microscopy. Gems el Gemol- Press, Oxford, England. ogy, Vol. 18, No. 3, pp. 160-164. du Preez L. (1965)Electronparamagnetic Resonance and Opti- Lang A.R. (1967)Causes of birefringence in diamond. Nature, cal Investigations of Defect Centres in Diamond. Ph.D. Vol. 213, No. 5073, pp. 248-251. thesis, University of Witwatersrand. Liddicoat R.T. Jr. (19811 Handbook of Gem Identification. Frank F.C., Puttick K.E. (1958) Etch pits and trigons on dia- Gemological Institute of America, Santa Monica, CA. monds. Philosophical Magazine, Vol. 3, No. 35, pp. Mcllwraith J. (19841 De Beers chairman invited to Argyle dia- 1262- 1279. mond mine. Indiaqua, No. 39, p. 43. Hall A.E., Smith C.B. (19841 Lamproite diamonds-are they Mitchell R.S., Giardini A.A. (19531Oriented olivine inclusions different? In Kimberlite Occurrence and Origin: A Basis for in diamond. American Mineralogist, Vol. 38, Nos. 1-2, pp. Conceptual Models in Exploration, J.E. Glover and P.G. 136-138. Harris, eds., University of Western Australia, pp. 167-212. Orlov Y.L. (1977)The Mineralogy of the Diamond. J. Wiley & Kane R.E. (1982)Graining ingem diamond. In Procedures of the Sons, New York. International Gemological Symposium, Gemological Insti- Raal F.A. (19581 A new absorption band in diamond and its tute of America, Santa Monica, CA. likely cause. l'roceedings of the Physical Society, Vol. 71, Koivula J.I. (1982) Shadowing: a new method of image en- NO. 461, pp. 846-847.

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Pink Diamonds GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 155 THE BIRON HYDROTHERMAL SYNTHETIC EMERALD By Robert E. Kane and Richard T. Liddicoat, ]r.

A new synthetic emerald grown in Western merald was first synthesized by Ebelman in 1848 by Australia is now commercially available E adding natural emerald powder to a molten boric acid as faceted stones. spectra revealed flux, which produced very small prismatic emerald crys- the presence of water, thereby confirming tals as the mixture cooled. In the ensuing years, the flux that these synthetic emeralds are synthe- growth of synthetic emerald was achieved by many re- sized by a hydrothermal process. Chemical searchers (Nassau, 1980; Sinkankas, 198 1). In 1957, the analysis showed that they contain vana- dium as well as lesser amounts of chro- growth of minute crystals by a hydrothermal process mium. This new synthetic exhibits some was first reported [Wyart and ¤6avnic~r1957). Although characteristics that are distinctly different many processes for growing synthetic emerald hydro- from other synthetic emeralds and there- thermally have been described since then (summarized in fore must now be considered when identi- Sinkankas, 1981),until recently only three major produc- fying emeralds. In addition to distinctive tions of hydrothermal synthetic emerald have been com- inclusions such as gold, the Biron synthetic mercially available to the jewelry trade: Linde (patented is inert to ultraviolet radiation, has a spe- process now owned by Regency), Lechleitner (full syn- cific gravity of 2.68 -2.71, and refractive thetic in addition to overgrowth), and, most recently, those indices of = 1,569 and (D = 1.573. This ar- grown in the Soviet Union (see Talzubo, 1979). ticle examines in detail thegemological The synthetic emerald reported on here represents a properties of the Biron hydrothermal syn- thetic emerald and discusses means of new hydrothcrmal process that can yield unusually clean identifying this new synthetic. faceted stones (figure 1)from remarkably large single crys- tals (figure2). This material will be commercially available in the latter part of 1985. This new hydrothermal emerald is being synthesized in Western Australia and marketed as faceted stones under the trade name Biron. Note that this is not the same material as the -doped synthetic ABOUT THE AUTHORS emerald that was grown several years ago in Melbourne, Mr. Kane is research and gem identification Australia, by Taylor (1967). supervisor of the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory, Inc., The manufacturer reports that research on the Biron Los Angeles, California; and Mr. Liddicoat is synthetic emerald began in 1977 in Western Australia. chairman of the board of the Gemological Institute of America, Santa Monica, California. Since then, a few brief notes based on the examination of a very small number of stones have appeared in the Acknowledgments: The authors would like to thank Mr. W.L. Cotton and Biron Minerals Ply., Ltd., tor literature (Brown, 1981 and 1983; Brown and Snow, 1984; the loan and generous donation of some of the syn- Darragh and Willing, 1982; Tombs, 1983).In the interest of thetic material examined in this study; and Bill Kerr providing detailed information to the gemological com- for preparing some samples for analysis and photomicrography. Allphotographs, unless munity on the properties and identifying characteristics of otherwise indicated, are by Robert E. Kane. this synthetic emerald, however, the manufacturer, Biron 0 1985 Gemological Institute of America Minerals Pty., Ltd., and the distributor made available to

156 Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 Figure 1. These faceted Biron hydrothermal synthetic emeralds are representative of many examined in this study. The stones shown here have a hi& clarity and range in weight from 1.20 to 3.00 ct. Photo 0 Tino Hammid,

GIA 202 samples of the new Biron synthetic em- to be completely free of inclusions to those that erald. The samples included 150 faceted stones of had areas of visible inclusions. various shapes and cuts (ranging from 0.05 ct to 3.00 ct), 50 preforms (weighing from 1.50 ct to 5.00 ct), and two rough crystals (96.08ct and 108.05 ct). Using a dichroscope, we observed These specimens were examined carefully and in strongly distinct colors of green-blue subjected to several gemological tests; a few were parallel to the c-axis and yellowish green perpen- also chemically analyzed. A detailed study of the dicular to the c-axis. These results are typically inclusions present was also conducted. The results observed in other synthetic emeralds, as well as in of these examinations and tests are reported below many natural emeralds. and summarized in table 1. SPECTRAL EXAMINATIONS VISUAL APPEARANCE The visible-light absorption spectra of several of The faceted Biron synthetic emeralds studied the faceted Biron synthetic emeralds were exam- varied in hue from green to slightly bluish green in ined with a GIA GEM Instruments spectroscope moderate to vivid saturation (figure 1).The well- unit. The observed spectra appeared to be essen- cut stones were relatively consistent in color with tially the same as the well-known absorption spec- vivid saturation. As would be expected, small tra of emerald described by Liddicoat (1981, p. 194), stones and those that were cut shallow were con- which are the same for both natural and synthetic siderably lighter in tone. emerald, Nearly all of the faceted Biron synthetic When looking down the optic axis direction, emeralds examined were very transparent. When we observed in all of the stones tested a vague examined with the unaided eye and overhead il- general absorption from 400.0 nm to approxi- lumination, they ranged from stones that appeared mately 480.0 nm, a superimposed sharp line at

Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 157 by Dr. George Rossman, of the California Institute of Technology, using a Nicolet series 60SX Fourier transform infrared spectrometer system. The spec- tra, taken from several samples of Biron synthetic emerald, revealed the presence of water, thus con- firming that these synthetic emeralds are grown by a hydrothermal process. All natural emeralds and hydrothermal synthetic emeralds contain some water, whereas flux-grown synthetic emeralds contain no water (Nassau, 1980). COLOR-FILTER REACTION Several of the Biron synthetic emeralds were tested with a Chelsea color filter. All of the stones tested revealed a strong red appearance under the filter, as is also the case with many other hydro- thermal and flux-grown synthetic emeralds. Un- fortunately, many natural emeralds from various sources show the same reaction. Therefore, the color-filter reaction alone provides no indication of the synthetic origin of this material.

SPECIFIC GRAVITY, REACTION TO ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION, AND REFRACTIVE INDICES AND BIREFRINGENCE Figure 2. An exceptional example of the Biron hydrothermal synthetic emerald crystals grown Traditional gemological tests for the distinction of in Western Australia. This crystal measures 3.50 synthetic emerald from natural emerald have cm long by 1.6 cm wide, and weighs 96.08 ct. always considered microscopic examination of Photo by Tino Hammid; @ W. L. Cotton. characteristic inclusions to provide definitive proof of origin. However, this test is often consid- ered the most difficult to master because of the 477.0 nm, a broad band of absorption between similarities of some of the inclusions (such as 580.0 and 615.0 nm, and lines in the red situated at "fingerprints" and "veils") found in both synthetic 637.0, 646.0, 662.0, 680.5, and 683.5 nm. We ob- and natural emeralds. Consequently, many gem- served a similar absorption when we examined the ologists and jewelers have relied on magnification spectrum perpendicular to the optic axis; however, the least, and have arrived at an identification on the sharp line at 477.0 nm was absent. The same the basis of refractive indices, birefringence, reac- absorption features also occur in natural emeralds. tion to ultraviolet radiation, and specific gravity. When the Biron synthetic emeralds were However, with the new Biron synthetic emerald, placed over the opening of the iris diaphragm on as well as with other newer hydrothermal syn- the spectroscope unit, a red transmission was ob- thetic emeralds, such as the Russian material served. This transmission ranged from weak to (Takubo, 1979)) some of these standard tests no very weak, depending on the position of the stone longer provide even a vague indication of synthetic and of the light source, as well as on the size of the origin. stone. We have observed that this phenomenon is typical of many synthetic emeralds and is also Specific Gravity. The specific-gravity values for exhibited by some natural emeralds, inasmuch as the Biron hydrothermal synthetic emeralds were it is occasionally observed in very fine-color determined by the hydrostatic method with a emeralds from Chivor, and in medium to light Voland diamond balance. The sample stones emeralds from Gachalh, in Colombia. showed slight variations in density from 2.68 to Infrared absorption spectra were obtained 2.71. All of the faceted synthetic emeralds were

158 Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 among natural (Flanigen et al., 1967).Just as TABLE 1. The gemological properties of the Biron with natural emeralds, the specific gravity and re- hydrothermal synthetic emerald. fractive indices of hydrothermal synthetic emer- Properties Pleochroisrn Strong: green-blue parallel to alds are also dependent in part on the amount of that overlap the c-axis and yellowish green impurity ions and molecules they contain. Be- with those perpendicular to the c-axis. cause of the different synthesis techniques used, of natural Absorption Optic-axis direction: absorption emeralds spectruma lines at 477.0, 637.0, 646.0, these properties frequently differ from one manu- from (400-700 nrn) 662.0, 680.5 and 683.5 nm; a facturer to another. differing vague general absorption from From our observations, the specific-gravity geographic 400.0 to 480.0 nm and a broad localities band of absorption between values of flux-grown synthetic emeralds of various 580.0 and 615.0 nm. Perpendi- manufacture are often lower than the values of cular to optic-axis direction; their natural counterparts; such stones usually same as above, with the excep- tion that the 477.0 nrn line is float in the 2.67 liquid, thus providing some indi- absent. cation of their synthetic origin. In contrast, the Color-filter Strong red values obtained for many hydrothermal synthetic reaction emeralds are slightly higher, with the stones sinlz- Specific gravity ing in the 2.67 liquid, thereby overlapping with the Luminescence Inert to long- and specific-gravity range of natural emeralds. All of short-wave the Biron hydrothermal synthetic emeralds exam- U.V. ined by the authors in this study had densities greater than 2.67. Because many natural emeralds Key identifying Refractive properties indices and have similar specific-gravity values, the specific birefringence gravity of the Bifon hydrothermal synthetic em- ' ' Inclusions Various forms of fingerprints, eralds provides the gemologist with absolutely no . I. veils, and fractures; single indication of the synthetic origin of the material. occurrencesof large two-phase inclusions; nail-head spicule inclusions with liquid and gas Reaction to Ultraviolet Radiation. All of the Biron phases; several forms of gold; hydrothermal synthetic emeralds were exposed to phenakite crystals; numerous types and appearances of long-wave (366 nm) and short-wave (254 nm) growth features; white particles ultraviolet radiation. To insure observation of forming comet-tails and even the weakest fluorescence, we performed the stringers or randomly scattered throughout; and, rarely test in a completely darkened room, placing the observed, seed plates. synthetic emeralds on a black pad raised to within a few inches of the ultraviolet lamp inside a stan- aAs observed through a hand-held type of spectroscope. dard ultraviolet viewing cabinet. The faceted Biron synthetic emeralds did not exhibit any visible fluorescence under these conditions. It has been stated that the presence of iron in also tested in a standard 2.67 (specific gravity] either natural or synthetic emeralds can quench heavy liquid (methylene iodide diluted with fluorescence, slightly increase specific benzyl benzoate). Before we present the results, a gravity, and raise refractive indices and bire- brief discussion is necessary concerning the fringence (Fryer, 1969/70; Kane, 1980/8 1; Gtlbelin, factors that can influence the specific-gravity 1982). We suggest that, because of the lack of de- values of beryl. tectable iron in the Biron hydrothermal synthetic Studies on the chemical composition of natu- emerald (see table 2), something other than iron ral beryls (Bakakin and Belov, 1962; Goldman et must be responsible for the inert reaction of the al., 1978; Schaller et al., 19621 state that both fill- material when exposed to long-wave and short- ing of structural voids and substitution by Cr, Fe3+, wave ultraviolet radiation. Rather, the lack of Fez+, Mg, Li, other ions, and water molecules can fluorescence appears to be due to the high concen- occur in the crystal structure of beryl. These ions trations of vanadium (see table 21. This conclusion and water molecules appear to be a major cause of is supported by Linares's experiments on the flux variation in specific gravity and refractive index growth of synthetic emerald (1967). Linares used

Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 159 TABLE 2. Chemical analyses of two faceted Biron hydrothermal synthetic emeraldsa

Oxide component (~t.%)~

Catalog no. Na20 MgO FeO A1200 V203 Cr203 Si02 C l Totalc

GIA l2od nd' nd nd 18.1 0.7 0.3 66.4 0.3 85.8 GIA 14622e nd nd nd 18.2 0.6 0.2 65.4 0.3 84.7 aThese samples were analyzed with a MAC electron microprobe at an operating voltage of 15 KeV and beam current 010.05 pA The raw data were correctedby using the Ultimate correction program of Chodos et at. (1973). Analyst: Carol M. Stockton, GIA Research Dept. bValues represent the average of three analyses lor each sample. CThese totalsarelow (less than 100%) becauseno analysis was made forlight elements (of atomic number below '1 1)present in beryl. Ideally, Be0 should be about 14.00 wt% dSarnple synthesized in 1982. eSample synthesized in 1984. 'Not detected; below the detection limits of the instrumentation used (approximately 0.1 wt.%). various ratios of a lead oxide-vanadium oxide These low values provide some indication of syn- flux system (PbO-V20g),in addition to chromium thetic origin. Although an identification should oxide (Cr203),for his synthetic-emerald experi- not be based solely on this property, these optical ments. When the synthetic emeralds grown from values are very unlikely to be observed in a natural these fluxes were exposed to ultraviolet radiation, emerald. For a comparison of refractive index and no chromium fluorescence was observed. Linares birefringence values of natural emeralds from speculated that considerable vanadium was incor- numerous different geographic localities, see porated into the synthetic emerald during the Gubelin (1982, p. 13, table 3). Interestingly, the growth process; the vanadium then interacted values recorded for the Biron synthetic emerald are with the chromium to quench any fluorescence low for a hydrothermal synthetic emerald and are that might have been caused by the chromium. more typical of flux-grown products. Flanigen et al. (1967)also reported the absence of fluorescence in their experimental vanadium INCLUSIONS flux (VnOi) synthetic emerald. In contrast, they The Biron hydrothermal synthetic emeralds were reported that their Linde hydrothermal synthetic all examined thoroughly with a gemological emerald, which contained no vanadium, showed a binocular microscope in conjunction with various bright red fluorescence when exposed to both sources of illumination. Several types of character- long-and short-wave ultraviolet radiation. The ab- istic inclusions were observed; some were remi- sence of fluorescence has also been observed in niscent of synthetic emeralds of different manu- vanadium-doped synthetic ruby and synthetic facture, while several others identified by the alexandrite (Linares, 1967). authors appear to be unique to the Biron synthetic An inert reaction to ultraviolet radiation has emerald. frequently been used as an indicator of natural The faceted Biron synthetic emeralds exam- origin for emeralds, since many natural emeralds ined ranged in clarity from those with prominent are inert to either long-wave or short-wave U.V. inclusions, growth features, and color zoning, to and many hydrothermal and flux synthetic emer- those that were remarkably clean and appeared to alds are not. However, with the introduction of the be nearly flawless, with perhaps only minor, non- Biron synthetic emerald, which is also inert to descript growth features. such radiation, the absence of fluorescence can no longer be used as an identifying criterion. Two-Phase Inclusions. Evident in some of the Biron synthetic emeralds examined were two- Refractive Indices and Birefringence. Refractive phase inclusions consisting of a fluid and a gas indices were obtained using a GEM Duplex I1 re- bubble. These two-phase inclusions were observed fractometer in conjunction with a sodium light to have three distinct appearances: (1) forming source. The Biron synthetic emeralds were de- "fingerprint" patterns and curved (wispy)"veils"; termined to be uniaxial negative with a refractive (2)as large, irregular voids containing one or more index of = 1.569 and w = 1.573 (+0.001), with a gas bubbles; and (3)trapped within the tapered corresponding birefringence of 0.004-0.005. portion of "nail-head spicules."

160 Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 Figure 3. Overview of a 1.70-ct faceted Biron synthetic emerald showing secondary "fingerprint" and "wispy veil" inclusions and irregular growth features in the center of the stone. Dark-field illumination, magnified 13 x,

Fingerprints, Veils, and Fractures. As with other markably similar in nature and appearance to hydrothermal synthetic emeralds, the Biron typi- those observed in some natural emeralds (figure 4). cally contains various types of secondary growth The mechanism that produces this healing process defects commonly referred to as fingerprints and in natural minerals has been well documented (see veils. The term wispy veil is also often used to Eppler, 1959, 1966; and Roedder, 1962, 1982, describe such inclusions in synthetic emeralds and 1984); for illustrations of the formation process of other synthetic gem materials. The Biron synthe- these secondary inclusions, see Roedder (1982, tic emeralds exhibited fingerprint and veil patterns 1984)and Koivula (1983).Although the conditions of various appearances (figures 3 through 6). required to heal a fracture resulting in a finger- In contrast to flux-grown synthetic emeralds, print-like pattern in a natural or synthetic crystal in which the fingerprints and veils are healed frac- are different, the mechanism should be the same. tures with flux fillings, the fingerprints and veils in One or two of the faceted Biron synthetic em- hydrothermal synthetic emeralds generally con- eralds exhibited areas of somewhat dense concen- sist of many small two-phase inclusions that are trations of wispy and planar fingerprints and veils usually concentrated at curved and planar in- of various forms that often originated from a terfaces; although flux inclusions may be similar common central point, extending outward in a in appearance, they are completely solid. These arrangement. This is illustrated in figure 3; fingerprints and veils in the Biron synthetic emer- interestingly, this stone was probably the most ald are healing fissures that are in some cases re- included of all the 200 examined, yet the wispy

Figure 4. Left: Secondary "fingerprint" composed of a partially healed fracture area and a fine network of tiny two-phase inclusions in a Biron synthetic emerald. Right: Well-formed network of two-phase inclusions. Dark-field and oblique illumination, magnified 30 x and -loox, respectively.

Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 161 helix pattern. This type of spiral growth pattern is also occasionally observed in natural emeralds (Gubelin, 1974; Fryer et al., 1983) and therefore may be confusing to the gemologist. Some of the Biron synthetic emeralds con- tained areas of partially healed fracture-fingerprint patterns that, when tilted to specific viewing an- gles in dark-field or reflected light, exhibited a multicolored display of interference colors (see figure 6). The same phenomenon is occasionally observed in some natural emeralds that contain ultra-thin layers of two-phase (liquid and gas) in- clusions; in the natural stones, however, the pat- Figure 5. These spiral arrangements of small terns are quite distinctive, ranging from minute to "fingerprints," frequently referred to as a helix large in randomly oriented, rounded, irregular pattern, in the Biron synthetic emeralds should forms (figure 7). not be confused with very similar-appearing Also observed were fractures and healed frac- inclusions in some natural emeralds. Dark-field tures, some of which were similar in appearance to illumination, magnified 20x. the epigenetic staining that is observed in many natural gem materials, including emeralds. Thus, these fractures do not provide any evidence of syn- veils occupied less than one-half of the faceted thetic origin. stone. This clarity is in contrast to many other synthetic emeralds, both flux and hydrothermal, Single Irregular Two-phase Inclusions. In a few of which (with the exception of some Inamori flux the faceted Biron synthetic emeralds, rather unu- synthetic emeralds and Russian hydrothermal and sual, large, individual two-phase inclusions were flux synthetic emeralds) are typically very hea- observed (figure 8). Frequently trapped within a vily included. tapered, irregular, flattened void that exhibited Observed in several of the Biron synthetic em- sharp angular to slightly rounded edges was a fluid eralds were spiral arrangements of a small finger- and a large gas bubble. None of these bubbles was print pattern (figure 51, sometimes referred to as a mobile under normal viewing conditions.

Figure 6. A Biron synthetic emerald with a secondary "fingerprint" pattern consisting of a network of two-phase inclusions and a partially healed fracture. On the left, the partially healed fracture is almost invisible when viewed in dark-field illumination only. However, as is shown on the right, when fiber- optic illumination is used to vertically light this area, interference colors are seen. Magnified 40x.

At' :.: :

162 Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 Figure 8. Captured within this Biron synthetic emerald is a large, well-formed, two-phase inclusion. Note also the fingerprint patterns at either end of the inclusion. Dark-field and oblique illumination, magnified 40 x.

Figure 7. A natural emerald with ultra-thin films of two-phase (liquid and gas) inclusions. Such thin-film inclusions are occasionally observed in Figure 9. During the faceting of ibis Biron natural emeralds; however, they are generally synthetic emerald, a very large two-phase quite distinctive andshouldnot be confused with inclusion was brought to the surface, releasing inclusions displaying a similar phenomenon the liquid andgas phases and leaving only a deep in Biron synthetic emeralds, such as the one void. The frosted appearance on theinner walls of shown in figure 6. Vertical illumination with a the void is in part a result of residue left in the fiber optic light source only, magnified 80~. cavity. Dark-field and oblique illumination, magnified 25 X. Several of the faceted Biron synthetic emeralds contained large voids that broke the surface in a that frequently starts at its widest end on a crys- very small area of the stone; in a few stones, these talline inclusion and tapers gradually to a point. voids extended almost the entire length from the These inclusions, referred to here as nail-head table to the culet. They were identical in appear- spicules, have long been observed in hydrothermal ance to many of the voids that contained the two synthetic emeralds from various manufacturers phases. Undoubtedly, when the inclusions were (Nassau, 1978, 1980; Anderson, 1980; Liddicoat, brought to the surface during faceting, the gaseous 1981; Sinkankas, 1981). and liquid phases were released, leaving only a In the Biron synthetic emeralds, the void or very deep cavity with a frosted white ap- "head of the nail" is formed by a , pearance on the inner walls (figure 9). a group of phenakite crystals, or gold crystals (see figures 10 - 12).As is common with virtually all Nail-Head Spicules. Also common in the Biron other hydrothermal synthetic emeralds, the nail- synthetic emeralds is the presence of a fluid and a head spicules in the Biron synthetics are often gas bubble contained within a cone-shaped void observed in single or multiple occurrences that

Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 163 Figure 11. This Biron synthetic emerald contains a nail-head spicz~lewith a large, distinct phenakite crystal at the base. Dark-field illumination, magnified 60x.

parallel the c-axis. Examination of both hydro- thermal and flux synthetic emeralds revealed that nail-head spicules develop most readily when the synthetic emerald is initially started on a seed plate inclined at an angle to the crystallo- graphic axes, as is the case with the Biron synthe- tic emeralds.

Figure 10. This large nail-head spicule in a Biron Gold. Several of the faceted Biron synthetic emer- synthetic emerald consists of a cone-shaped void alds contained metallic-appearing inclusions. that is filled with a fluid and a gas bubble. SEM-EDS analyses were performed on a number of Although not visible at this viewing angle, the these inclusions that reached the surface on each spicule is capped by a poorly developed, ghost- of five different faceted stones. These inclusions like phenakite crystal. Dark-field illumination, represented the range of sizes, shapes, textures, magnified 50x. and colors of the metallic inclusions observed in the Biron synthetic emeralds that were studied. The analyses identified gold as the major constituent in

Figure 12. Multiple growth of nail-head spicules at the edge of a large plane of gold inclusions in a Biron synthetic emerald. Darli- field and oblique illumination, magnified 50 x.

Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 Direction of c-axis I

Figure 13. A close-up of several forms of gold inclusions concentrated in a large plane that occupies the entire length of this faceted Biron synthetic emerald, with a specific orientation to the c-axis of the host. Slight changes in dark-field illumination, supplemented by oblique illumination, often reveal the shiny, metallic appearance of the gold. Magnified 50 x. all of the metallic inclusions tested; minor The gold inclusions in the Biron synthetic em- amounts,of nickel and were also detected. eralds were observed to occur in a rather surprising Evidence of was found in a small number diversity of distinct forms and appearances (figures of the gold inclusions analyzed. 12 through 14):thin, flat plates with hexagonal and Metallic inclusions are typically associated triangular outlines, ranging from very symmetri- with some synthetic gem materials-for example, cal to distorted forms; flattened, slightly rounded platinum in Chatham flux-grown synthetic co- needles in various lengths; large, rather dense rundum (Kane, 1982), platinum crystals in the planes composed of minute individual grains; and early Chatham flux-grown synthetic emeralds granular and dendritic-appearing aggregates and (Liddicoat, 1981, pp. 139-140, 1701, and platinum larger, slightly angular grains resembling natural inclusions (as observed by the authors) in the "native gold." They ranged in color from "grayish newer hydrothermal synthetic emeralds from the " to black to distinctly "yellowish gold," Soviet Union. For a material to occur as an inclu- depending on the viewing angle and lighting con- sion, its constituents must be present in the ditions. The true yellowish color of the gold in- growth environment. With hydrothermal synthe- clusions could generally be seen by adjusting the tic growth of emerald, the steel pressure vessel viewing position while supplementing the dark- (frequently referred to as a hydrothermal bomb, field illumination with a fiber-optic light source. because it occasionally explodes) is lined with a As is illustrated in figure 13, in many of the nonreactive to prevent contami- faceted Biron synthetic emeralds the metallic (and nation from the steel. The Linde hydrothermal other) inclusions were observed to be concentrated synthetic emerald process used gold to line the in planes that occupied the entire length of the growth vessel (Flanigen and Mumbach, 1971).The stone and were close to parallel with one of the presence of gold as an inclusion in the Biron syn- long pavilion planes, with a somewhat specific thetic emerald suggests that gold or a gold is orientation to the c-axis of the host (possibly re- used as a vessel liner in the Biron process as well. lated to growth parallel to the seed plate). Although gold as an inclusion in hy- drothermally grown synthetic emeralds is not Phenakite Crystals. Observed in several of the common, it is not unknown. Gubelin (1960/1961) Biron synthetic emeralds were various forms of reported gold inclusions in Lechleitner's synthetic transparent colorless crystals. These inclusions emerald overgrowth product. were identified as phenakite by their characteristic

Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 165 Figure 14. This faceted Biron synthetic emerald Figure 15. Small single crystals, groups, and contains several large, dense planes of dendritic- aggregates of phenakite are confined to an area appearing aggregates of gold inclusions that that almost parallels one of the long pavilion border both sides of a seed-plate area. Dark-field planes of this Biron synthetic emerald preform. and oblique illumination, magnified 50x. Dark-field illumination, magnified 50x. crystal habits and the visible difference in relief examined with the microscope, however, these caused by the higher refractive indices of phena- crystals should not be mistaken for other crystal- kite (1.654-1.670) compared to those of the syn- line inclusions, such as calcite, that are common thetic emerald host material. in some natural emeralds. In many of the Biron The formation of phenakite inclusions in syn- synthetic emeralds examined, the phenakite crys- thetic emeralds is somewhat common and is easily tals exhibited very small but distinctive prism explained by the fact that phenakite is a faces that distinguish these inclusions from what silicate with a chemical formula of Be2Si04 that is might otherwise appear to be calcite rhombohe- closely related to that of beryl (Be3A12SigOig).Ep- drons, which do not possess such prism faces. Ad- pier (1958)stated that phenakite crystals form in ditional distinctions between calcite and phena- synthetic emeralds because of a local deficiency of kite inclusions in emerald are provided by the fact aluminum oxide (AlnOi)in the melt or solution at that calcite is highly birefringent (0.172), and will higher temperatures. exhibit vivid high-order (brighter) interference The transparent colorless phenakite crystals colors when examined under cross-polarized il- in the Biron synthetic emeralds ranged from mi- lumination, in contrast to the weakly birefringent nute crystallites to well-formed single crystals as phenakite inclusions (0.016),which show slightly large as 0.3 mm long, and were observed in several to obviously less-vivid colors. Calcite inclusions different forms. Both well-defined single phena- may also exhibit cleavages, which are absent in kite rhombohedrons with minor prism faces and phenakite inclusions in synthetic emerald. Simi- less-defined phenakite crystals were observed to lar natural inclusions that have been identified as form the base of some of the nail-head inclusions or dolomitic [E. Gubelin and J. Koivula, (again, see figures 10 and 11). Phenakite crystals pers. comm., 1985; Cassadanne and Sauer, 1984)in were also encountered as small isolated crystals, as emeralds from Santa Terezinha, Brazil, are nearly well as in groups and aggregates that were often always closely associated with tiny black chro- arranged in a somewhat definite plane or confined mite grains. to areas close to and parallel with one of the long The abundance and orientation of the pavilion planes of several of the Biron synthetic phenakite inclusions in the Biron synthetic emer- emerald preforms (figure 15).The small phenakite alds also provide evidence of synthesis. When nu- crystals often exhibit prominent rhombohedra1 merous phenakite inclusions (as well as gold in- faces with well-developed first-order or second- clusions) are present, they are often oriented in order prism faces. closely spaced groups such as those illustrated in Phenakite inclusions in synthetic emerald figure 15 (and again, see figure 13). Natural inclu- often display angular and varied crystal forms that sions, such as calcite or dolomite in natural emer- might be confusing to the gemologist. If carefully alds, generally do not occur in such concentrations

Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 and are frequently closely associated with other are different from those previously known for types of inclusions. other synthetic emeralds on the market, although Once identified as phenakite, these character- some are remotely reminiscent of (but not as well istic inclusions provide proof of synthetic origin defined as) those referred to as "Venetian blind" (either hydrothermal or flux), as phenakite inclu- banding (Fryer et al., 1981). The growth features sions are not known to occur in natural emeralds. in the Biron synthetic emeralds ranged from being In stones where the inclusions in question cannot very difficult to observe under magnification be easily identified, other characteristics such as easily recognized typical inclusions and low re- fractive indices and birefringence should all be considered in making an identification as to whether the emerald is natural or synthetic.

Growth Features and Color Zoning. Observed in all of the Biron synthetic emeralds were various forms of growth features; in some, color zoning was also noted. The growth features vary greatly in appearance and prevalence. They were observed in one or a combination of the following forms: straight, parallel, and uniform; angular, straight, and intersecting; and irregular (see figures 16 and 17). Because some of the faceted Biron synthetic Figure 16. ~rowthfeatures become evident in this emeralds-contain only growth features, it is useful faceted Biron synthetic emerald when the built- to be fam\iliar with these inclusions and tech- in iris diaphragm on the microscope stage is niques of bringing them into view. Many of the partially closed (over dark-field illumination) to growth features in the Biron synthetic emeralds create a shadowing effect.Magnified 50x.

Figure 17. Several forms of growth features surrounding an unusual two-phase inclusion in a Biron synthetic emerald are accentuated by shadowing dark-field I illumination. Magnified 40 x,

Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 167 even when several different illumination tech- niques were used, to being easily seen with the unaided eye. As is the case with most natural or synthetic materials, the nature of growth features can be very elusive. When a faceted stone is held in a certain manner and is viewed at specific angles, the growth features may be very evident. At other positions and viewing angles, they may totally dis- appear from view. Likewise, the appearance of an inclusion can be changed dramatically by employ- ing different types of illumination. For routine examination, dark-field illumination usually provides the most effective means of lighting the Figure 18, Typical of many Biron synthetic interior of a gemstone. However, oblique, trans- emeralds are these minute white particles mitted, and diffused illumination, as well as arranged in stringers and "comet-tails," which may only become visible when viewed with shadowing (often used in combination with one fiber-optic illumination. Magnified 50x. another or with dark-field), are most effective for examining color zones and growth features in many synthetic and natural gem materials. minute at 45x to being easily seen at 45x (still Many of the growth features observed in the visible, but quite small, at lox). Although the Biron synthetic emeralds are quite distinctive and white particles observed in many of the Biron syn- different from those that occur in natural emeralds. thetic emeralds are rather nondescript in appear- ance, they provide a good indication of synthe- White Particles. Observed in many of the Biron tic origin. Natural emeralds that are flawless or synthetic emeralds were fine straight lines, irregu- very clean would not be expected to exhibit such lar lines, and ill-defined v-shaped arrangements of inclusions. stringers composed of minute white particles. Similar features, often referred to as "comet tails," Seed Plates. A few of the faceted Biron synthetic also occur in other synthetic gems such as Kashan emeralds contained what appeared to be seed and Ramaura synthetic (Kane, 1983) and in plates. One stone contained a very lightly colored some natural gemstones, although very rarely if at or near-colorless area that was free of inclusions, all in natural emeralds. The comet-tail inclusions ranged in width from 0.8 to 1.1 mm, and extended in the Biron synthetic emeralds were generally through the entire stone. This zone was bordered faint, in contrast to their appearance in synthetic on both sides by thin, dense planes of minute rubies, where they are usually seen very easily in white particles and numerous larger gold crystals dark-field illumination. In many of the Biron syn- interspersed throughout the plane. On both sides thetic emeralds, the comet tails were only visible of the seed plates, the planes of gold inclusions when fiber-optic illumination was used (figure 18). were very different in appearance; one is shown in They were observed to occur in several forms: figure 14. The other side exhibited larger, slightly trailing behind inclusions such as a fingerprint angular gold crystals that were distinctly yellow in pattern; aligned with growth features, sometimes color. Extending through these planes of inclu- in multiple occurrences extending the entire sions were nearly straight, parallel growth fea- length of the stone; and randomly oriented in one tures. A few minute, white, nail-head spicules or two areas. were observed extending away from one side of the In many of the cleanest faceted Biron synthetic dense inclusion planes, oriented at approximately emeralds, the only inclusions were a few randomly 30Â to the seed plate. This seed-plate area was oriented small, white, dust-like particles and faint chemically analyzed and is believed to be a natural growth features. The white particles were often beryl seed plate, as discussed below. sparsely placed in a random orientation through- Another faceted stone showed a near-colorless out the synthetic emerald. Often one stone would zone, probably the seed plate, near the culet. From contain particles of various sizes, ranging from the many faceted Biron synthetic emeralds exam-

168 Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 ined, it appears that the seed-plate areas are usu- not typically associated with synthetic emeralds. ally removed during cutting. It is likely, however, In this article, we have presented the key proper- that the planes of gold inclusions and dense con- ties of this material (summarized in table 1). In centrations of minute white particles closely par- doing so, we have found that some of the tradi- alleled seed plates in the rough crystal. tional gemological tests for the distinction of natu- ral emerald from its synthetic counterpart do not CHEMISTRY apply. Specifically, the Biron synthetic emerald is Microprobe chemical analyses of two of the inert to long- and short-wave ultraviolet radiation faceted Biron synthetic emeralds showed consis- (as are most natural emeralds), and its specific tency with previous data on other hydrothermal gravity (2.68 to 2.71) overlaps with that of most synthetic emeralds, in particular the Linde and natural emeralds. Regency material, except with respect to van- There are, however, other means by which the adium content (see table 2). Earlier commercial Biron synthetic emerald can be identified from its hydrothermal synthetic emeralds contained no natural counterpart: vanadium at all, whereas the Biron product con- 1. Characteristic inclusions. Although by com- tains appreciable amounts (more than double their parison to other synthetic emeralds, both flux- chromium content). Because of the variable, but grown and hydrothermal, the Biron hydro- sometimes significant, content of vanadium in thermal synthetic emerald possesses a much natural emeralds (Stockton, 1984), this in itself is greater clarity (most of the stones in the study not a satisfactory identification criterion. sample ranged from remarkably clean to Chlorine is present in the Biron synthetic em- slightly included), inclusions provide the most eralds, it was also reported by Hanni (1982) and effective means of identification for the gem- Stockton (1984) in the Linde and Regency hy- ologist. To date, the following types of inclu- drothermal'synthetic emeralds. The presence of sions have been observed in the Biron hy- chlorine probably comes from the chloride hydrate drothermal synthetic emerald: fingerprints, (CrC13-6HnO) that is used to supply chromium as veils, and fractures; single occurrences of large a coloring-agent (Nassau, 1980, p. 151). As this two-phase inclusions; nail-head spicule inclu- element has not been detected in either natural or sions with gas and liquid phases; several forms flux-grown synthetic emeralds, it serves as an of gold; phenakite crystals; numerous types of identifying characteristic of the hydrothermal growth features; white particles in the form of origin of the Biron synthetic. comet tails and stringers or simply scattered A third faceted Biron synthetic emerald was throughout the stone; and (rarely observed) analyzed in several different areas. An additional seed plates. phase of beryl was identified and probably repre- sents a natural beryl seed on which the synthetic 2. The low refractive indices and birefringence, [e emerald was grown. As compared to the analyses = 1.569 and w = 1.573 (+0.001) and made on either side of the seed, which were in 0.004-0.0051. These optical values are very close agreement with those reported in table 2, this unlikely to be observed in a natural emerald. phase contains no Cr203 V203, or Cl, but does However, an identification should not be made have appreciable FeO and minor amounts of NanO solely on the basis of this property, but in con- and MgO. junction with the inclusions present. 3. The characteristic chemistry, in particular the IDENTIFICATION AND SUMMARY presence of chlorine (Cl).The gemological lab- The "Biron process" produces single synthetic oratory with access to a microprobe or an emerald crystals of remarkable size and clarity (see energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence spec- figure 1).This new hydrothermal synthetic emer- trometry (EDXRF) system to analyze for Cl, ald will be commercially available as preforms and which is present in Biron synthetic emeralds, faceted stones in substantial quantities before the can rely on this minor element as definitive end of 1985. As is the case with many new sophis- proof of synthetic origin, inasmuch as Cl has ticated synthetic gem materials, the Biron hy- not been reported in natural emeralds (ithas not drothermal synthetic emerald possesses its own been found to occur in flux-grown synthetic unique set of characteristics, some of which are emeralds either).

Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 169 This study was conducted on over 200 samples the Biron synthetics generally contain fewer in- of Biron hydrothermal synthetic emerald which clusions, identification of this new synthetic does were produced over the past few years. The manu- not have to be difficult. If the modestly equipped facturer reports that he can control the clarity of professional gemologist becomes thoroughly fa- the material and is currently synthesizing much miliar with the inclusions and other properties of "clean" material similar to many of the synthetic the Biron synthetic emerald, and employs meticu- emeralds described here. Although some of the lous study of even the most subtle internal char- properties of the Biron synthetic emerald are dif- acteristics, this new synthetic emerald can be ferent from those of other synthetic emeralds, and identified.

REFERENCES Editions, Zurich, Switzerland. Anderson B.W. (1980)Gem Testing, 9th ed. Butterworth & Co., Gtlbelin E.J. (1982) Gemstones of : emerald, ruby and Boston, MA. spinel. Gems a) Gemology, Vol. 18, No. 3, pp. 123-139. Bakakin V.V., Belov N.V. (1962) Crystal chemistry of beryl. H3nni H.A. (1982)A contribution to the separability of natural Geochemistry, No. 5, pp. 484-500. and synthetic emeralds. Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 18, Brown G. (1981) Synthetic emeralds. Wahroongai News, No. 2, pp. 138-144, October, pp. 15- 19. Kane R.E. [1980/81) Unexpected absorption spectrum in natu- Brown G. (1983) Data on the Biron synthetic emerald. ral emeralds. Gems &> Gemology, Vol. 16, No. 12, Wahroongai News, Vol. 17, No. 6, p. 23. pp. 391 -392. Brown G., Snow J. (1984)Inclusions in Biron synthetic emer- Kane R.E. (19821The gemological properties of Chatham flux- a1ds.Australian Gemmologist, Vol. 15, No. 5, pp. 167-170. grown synthetic orange sapphire and synthetic blue Cassadanne J.P., Sauer D.A. (1984) The Santa Terezinha de sapphire. Gems ei) Gemology, Vol. 18, No. 3, pp. 140-153. Goids emerald deposit. Gems ei) Gemology, Vol. 20, No. 1, Kane R.E. (19831 The Ramaura synthetic ruby. Gems e) pp. 4-13. Gemology, Vol. 19, No. 3, pp. 130-148. Chodos A.A., Albee A.L., Garcarz A.J., Laird J. (1973)Optimi- Koivula J.I. (1983) Induced fingerprints. Gems ei) Gemology, zation of computer-controlled quantitative analysis of min- Vol. 19, No, 4, pp. 220-227. erals. Proceedings of the 8th International Conference of Liddicoat R.T. Jr. (1981)Handbook of Gem Identification, 11th Electron Probe Microanalysis, New Orleans, Louisiana. ed. Gemological Institute of America, Santa Monica, CA. Darragh P.J., Willing M.J. (1982) A new synthetic emerald. Linares R.C. (1967)Growth of beryl from molten salt solutions. Australian Gemmologist, Vol. 14, No. 12, p. 344. American Mineralogist, Vol. 52, Nos. 9 and 10, Ebelman J.J. (1848)Sur une nouvelle m6thode pour obtenir des pp. 1554-1559. combinations cristallis6es par la voie seche, etc. Annales de Nassau K. (1978) Did Professor Nacken ever grow hydro- Cl~imieet de Physique, Vol. 22, pp. 213-244. thermal emerald? Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 16, No. 1, Eppler W.F. (1958)Synthetic emerald. Journal of Gemmology, pp. 36-49. Vol. 6, No. 8, pp. 360-369. Nassau K. (1980) Gems Made by Man. Chilton Book Co., Eppler W.F. (1959)The origin of healing fissures in gemstones. Radnor, PA. Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 7, No. 2, pp. 40-66. Roedder E. (1962) Ancient fluids in crystals. Scientific Ameri- Eppler W.F. (1966)The origin of negative crystals in gemstones. can, Vol. 207, No. 4, pp. 38-47. Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 10, No. 2, pp. 49-56. Roedder E. (19821 Fluid inclusions in gemstones: valuable de- Flanigen E.M., Breck D.W., Mumbach N.R., Taylor A.M. (1967) fects. In International Gemological Symposium Pro- Characteristics of synthetic emeralds. American Mineral- ceedings, Gemological Institute of America, Santa Monica, ogist. Vol. 52, Nos. 5 and 6, pp. 744-772. CA, pp. 479-502. Flanigen E.M., Mumbach N.R. (1971)Hydrothermal process for Roedder E. (1984)Fluid Inclusions. Vol. 12, Reviews in Miner- growing crystals having the structure of beryl in an acid alogy. Brookcrafters, Inc., Chelsea, MI. halide medium. Patent 3,567,643, filed Schaller W.T., Stevens R.E., Jahns R.H. (1962)An unusual beryl March 25, 1968, issued March 2, 1971. from Arizona.American Mineralogist, Vol. 47, Nos. 5 and 6, Fryer C.W. (1969/70) New nonfluorescent high-property syn- pp. 672-699. thetic emeralds. Gems a) Gemology, Vol. 13, No. 4, Sinkankas J. (1981) Emerald and Other Beryls. Chilton Book pp. 106-111. Co., Radnor, PA. Fryer C., Crowningshield R., Hurwit K., Kane R. (1981)Gem Stockton C. (19841 The chemical distinction of natural from Trade Lab Notes-emerald. Gems ei) Gemology, Vol. 17, synthetic emeralds. Gems &> Gemology, Vol. 20, No. 3, NO. 1, pp. 43-44. pp. 14 1- 145. Fryer C., Crowningshield R., Hurwit K., Kane R. (1983)Gem Takubo H. (1979) Characteristics of synthetic hydrothermal Trade Lab Notes-emerald. Gems &> Gemology, Vol. 19, emeralds from USA and USSR. Journal of the Gemmological No. 3, p. 173. Society of Japan, Vol. 6, No. 4, pp. 3-18. Goldman D.S., Rossman G.R., Parkin K.M. (1978) Channel Taylor A.M. (1967) Synthetic vanadium emerald. Australian constitutents in beryl. Physics and Chemistry of Minerals, Gemmologist, Vol. 10, No. 7, pp. 10-13. Vol. 3, pp. 225-235. Tombs G.A. (1983) A new synthetic emerald. Australian Gubelin E.J. (1960/61) More light on beryls and rubies with Gemmologist, Vol. 15, No. 1, pp. 24-26. synthetic overgrowth. Gems 0) Gemology,-. Vol. 10, No. 4, Wyart J., S6avit~rS. (1957)Synthese hydrothermale du beryl. pp. 105-113. - Bulletin de la Socidtd Franqaise de Mindralogie et de Cris- Gubelin E.J. (1974)Internal World of Gemstones, 1st ed. ABC tallogruphie, Vol. 80, pp. 395-396.

170 Biron Emerald GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 EDITOR C. W. Fryer GIA, Santa Monica CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Robert Crowningshield LAB NOTES Gem Trade Laboratory, New York Karin N. Hurwit Gem Trade Laboratory, Los Angeles Robert E. Kane Gem Trade Laboratory, Los Angeles

CORUNDUM Black Star Sapphire Doublet Recently submitted to the Los An- geles Gem Trade Laboratory for identification were the stones illus- trated in figure 1. Testing proved the to be natural star sap- phires; interestingly, though, both cabochons were found to be assem- bled. Our client had submitted these to the laboratory for identification because of the ease with which the shown on the left in figure 1 broke during setting when just a small amount of pressure was ap- plied. Examination with the micro- scope in reflected light revealed polishing lines in addition to a trans- parent colorless cement on both portions of the cabochon. The un- Figure 1. Assembled black star sapphires, each with a natural star broken cabochon seen on the right in sapphire and a natural sapphire base. The total weight of figure 1 showed a separation plane of the two broken pieces on the left is 2.65 ct; the doublet on the right weighs 3.12 ct. transparent, near-colorless cement joining the two pieces together. This type of assembled stone can be easily identified by the obvious separation Surface-Induced Stars very similar to the phenomenon ob- plane. Applying a hot point to the The New York Gem Trade Labora- served in the other stone, a light red separation plane identified the ce- tory recently was asked to report on 6-ct cabochon (figure 2). By immers- ment layer, which melted easily, as a two asteriated stones. One, a dark ing the stones in methylene iodide, cellulose-base cement (for example, blue cabochon that weighed more we determined that the inclusions Duco Cement). than 40 ct, was determined to be nat- causing the star phenomenon in both This is the first time we have ural corundum by virtue of its char- stones were confined to the surface, a seen this unusual combination of acteristic inclusions. However, result of diffusion treatment. How- materials in an assembled stone; when examined with the hand spec- ever, the "ruby" was found to be a perhaps the top portion of the natural troscope, it did not show the iron line flux-grown synthetic stone, not nat- sapphire cabochon exhibits a finer at 450 nm commonly seen in natural asterism than would the base to blue sapphire; and it did exhibit a which it is cemented. It is also pos- chalky greenish white glow when sible that because black star sapphire exposed to short-wave ultraviolet is notorious for separating along nat- radiation, which suggests that it had Editor's note: The initials at the end of each item identify the contributing editor who ural parting planes, these stones been heat treated. Under magnifica- provided that item. were repaired after they had parted tion, the appearance of the needles during cutting. RK causing the star was peculiar, yet 0 1985 Gemological Institute of America

Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 171 Figure 2. Coarse subsurface Figure 3. The surface layer rutile needles in a 6-ct containing the star-causing diffusion-treated synthetic inclusions was removed by star ruby. Diffused light, repolishing at the girdle of the magnified 40 x. diffusion-treatedsynthetic ruby shown in figure 2. Magnified 20 X. ural at all. The needles causing the star in this stone are much coarser than the very small, fine needles Figure 5. This 5.9 x 4.1 x usually seen in synthetic star corun- 2.5-mm cubic zirconia was dum. The stars seen in both stones damaged by the heat of a torch are different from those usually seen while the mounting was being in naturally asteriated stones, which repaired. have inclusions throughout the depth of the stone, not just on the surface. Figure 3 shows that the thin us for identification and determined diffusion layer on the synthetic ruby to be cubic zirconia, which is ex- was actually removed at the girdle tremely sensitive to heat. when the stone was repolished after Figure 6 shows the results of heat treatment. RC heat that was applied during a repair job to a piece of jewerly set with a strontium titanate that was thought to be diamond. The stone not only DIAMOND for High Rollers Fig~ire4. This 11.73-ct gambling shattered but crumbled into dust. Recently submitted to the Los die was fashioned from Strontium titanate is so sensitive to Angeles lab for identification was the industrial-qualitydiamondand trauma of any kind that it has been gambling die shown in figure 4. Sub- the "dots" subsequently known to fracture in an ultrasonic sequent testing revealed that this inscribed by . It measures cleaning bath. Heat from a torch will 11.73-ct heavily included translu- 9.29 x 9.28 x 9.12 mm. cent faceted cube was a diamond. Figure 6. Remains of a Our client explained that he had had the extreme importance of being ab- strontium titanate after a torch the die fashioned from a large, solutely certain of a stone's identity was used to repair a piece of industrial-grade diamond cube. The before applying heat from a jeweler's jewelry set with this diamond black square indentations were ap- torch to it in the process of repair simulant. parently formed with a laser similar work. Recently, we have seen several to the one used for the laser- examples of unfortunate accidents inscribing process employed by the that occurred because the stones GIA Gem Trade Laboratory. RK were assumed to be diamonds. The first example is the pictured in figure 5. This pear-shaped stone was left in the mounting dur- DIAMOND Simulants, ing a repair job and, as a result of the Damage during Jewelry Repair heat, developed so many fractures We feel it necessary to continue to that the stone is no longer transpar- bring to the attention of our readers ent. It was subsequently brought to

172 Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 polishing compound to partially fill them. The low R.I. (1.555-1.560), low specific gravity (2.671, and dull red fluorescence to long-wave ultravio- let radiation provided further proof of synthetic origin. RC

Plagioclase FELDSPAR and Green MICA, as Major Constituents in a Carving Submitted to the Los Angeles labora- tory for identification was a translu- cent to opaque variegated green- and-white carving of a bell, along with a broken piece from a previ- Figure 7. Heavy spicules in a 1.30-ct synthetic emerald. ously connected chain link(figure 8). When the two pieces were exain- ined with the unaided eye, the most guarantee the destruction of the examined were approximately 1.30 notable feature was the very uneven, stone. ct each. The unusual inclusions poorly polished surface caused by the Although the actual cost to the noted were many long, triangular, different hardnesses of the green and jeweler of replacing these diamond negative parallel "spikes" typical of white portions of the material. The simulants,m,ay not be high, the loss hydrothermal synthetics (figure 7). overall luster was dull and waxy. The of credibilit and customer goodwill These spicules were easily seen with broken portion revealed a dull, waxy, could be suI stantial. Another factor the unaided eye. Where they reached uneven granular fracture. Because of to consider is the time lost in search- the surface, the openings were large the poor polish, a refractive index ing out a stone that matches the one enough to permit what appears to be reading was difficult to obtain; how- that was damaged. You can avoid these unneces- sary accidents by examining every Figure 8. Bell and broken connecting link ofa plagioclase feldspar and stone carefully before performing re- green muscovite mica carving that measures 20.2-20.5 mm in pair work. If you are uncertain of the diameter by 25.7 mmhigh. identity, take the stone to a labora- tory for a determination. Better yet, remove it from the mounting. In any case, no stone should be heated with a torch with the possible exception of diamond, and then only after proper precautions have been taken; even diamond can be damaged by extreme heat from a torch. Shane McClzire

Synthetic EMERALD The New York Gem Trade Labora- tory has recently identified several specimens that may represent either a new type of synthetic emerald or low-end material from an estab- lished crystal grower. It is not a ma- terial that we are familiar with. The two heavily included, blu- ish green emerald-cut stones that we

Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 173 ever, a vague spot reading of 1.57 was of the carving was chemically ana- observed. The specific gravity was lyzed by SEM-EDS, vanadium could determined by means of the hydro- still be present but below the detec- static technique. Using a Voland di- tion limits of this system. Perhaps amond balance equipped with the the green portion is a type of pinite, a necessary specific gravity attach- massive form of muscovite. Finite is ments, we obtained a value of ap- a general term used to describe an proximately 2.85. The visible light alteration product that can occur absorption spectrum (400-700 nm], from several different minerals, observed with a GEM spectroscope which include muscovite [see the Fall unit, is illustrated in figure 9. 1983 issue of Gems a) Gemology). The material was inert to long- The carving was identified as wave ultraviolet radiation, but expo- follows: "A rock consisting of two or sure to short-wave ultraviolet more different minerals. X-ray dif- showed an extremely weak red fluo- fraction reveals the major constitu- Figure 10. The eyein this 0.33-ct rescence. The hardness of the white ents to be a white PLAGIOCLASE garnet was material was estimated to be around FELDSPAR and a green MUSCO- apparently caused by a 6Y2 to 7 on the Mohs scale, and the VITE MICA." R IZ relatively straight "horse-tiiil" green portions were found to be type of inclusion in the original around 3. piece of rough. It was evident from observation GARNET and our tests that the carving was a Cat's-eye Demantoid rock consisting of two or more differ- bers throughout the entire stone, ent minerals. The refractive index, The Los Angeles laboratory recently which were the cause of the chatoy- hardness, and red fluorescence to had the opportunity to examine the ancy. Byssolite fibers with a radiat- short-wave ultraviolet radiation, 0.33-ct green cat's-eye illustrated in ing arrangement [generally referred even though weak, suggested that figure 10. The refractive index of this to as "horse-tail" inclusions] are typ- the white material was a feldspar. cabochon was over the 1.81 limit of ical of demantoid garnet and are well Further testing was necessary, so a the Duplex I1 refractometer. The known to gemologists. This small minute amount of powder was stone was singly refractive in the cat's-eye demantoid was apparently scraped from both the white and the polariscope. It was inert to both cut from a portion of demantoid green areas of the carving for X-ray long-wave and short-wave ultravio- rough that contained a large "horse- diffraction analysis. The results of let radiation. When the absorption tail" inclusion with relatively the X-ray powder diffraction tests re- spectrum was viewed through a straight, parallel fibers. RK vealed that the white material was a hand-held spectroscope, a very plagioclase feldspar, with the pattern strong band was centered near 443 Grossularite Garnet, being closest to that of anorthite. nm and a weaker but broad absorp- an Update The X-ray diffraction pattern of the tion "cut off" from 400 to 443 nm. In the Spring 1985 Gem Trade Lab green material closely matched a Examination with the microscope Notes column, we had an item about standard ASTM pattern for vanadian revealed, in addition to a few small a massive green grossularite carving. m~iscovite.Although no vanadium fractures, a straight, parallel ar- We stated that massive grossularite was detected when the green portion rangement of byssolite () fi- garnet of this size (7 x 6 x 2 cm) is extremely rare. We just received a letter from Dr. H. Schreuders of Figure 9. Absorption spectrum of thegreen mica portion of the carving Capetown, South Africa, stating that shown in figure 8. several tons of the material had been exported to Hong Kong. Apparently BG+GREEN+YG+Y 0-1- RED +VIOLET +VB~ BLUE + -1 it is not as rare as we had thought. I00 500 600 700 Dr. Schreuders further states that translucent chunks of up to 200 kg are still available, although nicer, greener material like the carving we identified usually does not occur in pieces larger than about 25 kg. Ton- lots are also still available. He also gives us information

174 Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 hair-like inclusions present. Figure 11 shows these inclusions, which re- semble plants in an underwater scene. he identity of the inclusions has not been determined. RC Another very unusual inclusion in , only rarely seen before at CIA, was a near-colorless solid "window" extending through a lav- , ender jadeite (figure 12).The "window" was large enough to test. It gave a spot refractive index reading of 1.66. When the piece was viewed with reflected light, no dif- ference in luster was evident be- tween the "window" and the host jadeite. There were no signs of either undercutting or relief when the in- Figure 11. Unidentified acicular inclusions in a natural-color jadeite clusion was viewed in oblique re- cabochon. Magnified 20 X. flected light, so we concluded that its hardness was the same as the host. After the above-mentioned testing, JADEITE, the "window" was determined to be with Unusual Inclusions a single translucent jadeite crystal During routine testing we rarely en- trapped in the host material of has- counter definite inclusions in sive jadeite. john Koivula 1 jadeite. It was an aesthetically pleas- ant surprise to the New ~orklab when we recently had the opportu- Anoher nity to test a fine translucent -green jadeite cabochon of natural color that Figure 13 shows one of two hanks of had many long and short tufts of more than 20 strands of very small

Figcue 13. Plastic imitation (approximately 1.0-1.4 mm in diameter).

Figure 12. A translucent, colorless, bloclzy crystal of iadeite included in a lavender jadeite bangle bracelet. Magnified 20 X. indicating that the material probably comes from the massive grossularite outcrops that occur along the Merensky Reef, slightly to the west of Brits, which in turn is west- northwest of Pretoria. The Merensky Reef contains a substantial portion of the world's chrome reserves. The hanging wall of most of the chrome mines is virtually solid grossularite garnet. We would like to thank Dr. Schreuders for bringing this infor- mation to our attention. CF

Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 175 (1.0- 1.4 mm in diameter) blue, cy- lindrical beads that came into the Los Angeles Gem Trade Laboratory for identification. Examination with magnification showed quite a few small, rounded, metallic-appearing yellow inclusions similar in appear- ance to the specks of that often occur in lapis lazuli. However, fur- ther testing proved that the beads were made of a different material. Despite the small size of the beads, we were able to obtain a fairly good refractive index spot reading of 1.55. There was no fluorescence to short-wave ultraviolet radiation and no reaction to hydrochloric acid. These properties are all different from those of lapis lazuli. When we tested the material with the hot needle of the Thermal Reaction Tester, we noticed the distinct acrid odor characteristic of plastic, proving that these beads had been fashioned of this material-another lapis lazuli Figure 14. Flattened, squarish, freshwater cultured , reportedly imitation that had not been encoun- from . tered in our laboratories before. KH

Unusual Cultured PEARLS The Los Angeles Gem Trade Labora- tory also received an unusual neck- lace, reportedly from China, consist- ing of pearls that were flat or lenticular in cross section but round, square, or rectangular in outline shape (figure14). They varied in color from yellowish green to greenish brown. When exposed toX-radiation, these pearls showed a fairly strong fluorescence that suggested fresh- water origin. The X-radiograph of the pearls in the flat direction revealed a peculiar structure that was not con- Figure 15. This X-ray, taken Figure 16. This X-ray taken with clusive (figure 15). Another X- through the thin (flat)direction the cultured pearls shown in radiograph with the pearls on edge of the cultured pearls shown in figure 14 on edge shows the flat showed the outline of a flat figure 14, was not conclusive nucleus. rectangular-shaped nucleus (figure enough for proof of origin. 16). When we examined these cul- tured pearls with low-power magni- , fication (loxJ, we were able to locate shell. We concluded that flat pieces a R~~~~~ Encountered Cm Stone one on which part of the nu- of shell, instead of the usual. . - round-- cleus was exposed because of miss- beads, had been used as nuclei in the A long-time friend of CIA thought ing layers of . Figure 17 shows a culturing process and thus deter- that we in the Applied Gemology part of a gray banded piece of mate- mined the unusual shapes of these Division of the Research Depart- rial that we were able to identify as cultured pearls. KH ment would be interested in examin-

176 Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 ing what was thought to be a new color variety of a transparent gem material previously known in other colors, but never reported as occur- ring in this beautiful purplish pink hue (see figure 18). The 1.54-ct stone was reported to be transparent idocrase. The refractive index was found to be 1.701 -1.707. Although this Figure 1 9. A phlogopi te mica seemed a little low, it was still inclusion in the sapphirine within the reported R.I. range of shown in figure 18. idocrase. However, the reading indi- Magnified 63 X. cated that the stone was biaxial neg- ative with beta at 1.705 and a bire- fringence of 0.006. The stone also Figure 18. An unusual 1.54-ct showed a biaxial optic figure, purplish pink cut sapphirine. sapphirine in this color. As a matter of fact, this is only the second or third cut sapphirine that the GTL has ever Figure 17. A shell nucleus was whereas idocrase is uniaxial. Spe- encountered. Sapphirine was so found protruding from one of cific gravity was found by the hy- named because of its resemblance in the oddly shaped freshwater drostatic method to be approxi- color to blue sapphire, even though cultured pearls. Magnified 10 X. mately 3.51. There was no reaction the two minerals have completely to ultraviolet radiation and no char- different chemical, optical, and phys- acteristic absorption spectrum. The ical properties. The purplish pink distinctive inclusions were an un- color of this specimen has not been known white crystal and what ap- encountered before in our laborato- peared to be a small "book" of mica. ries. CF Higher magnification revealed the mica "book" seen in fig- ure 19. The properties seemed to point toward sapphirine, a material FIGURE CREDITS that is very rarely encountered as a Figures 2, 3, 7, and 11 were supplied by cut stone. An X-ray diffraction pat- David Hargell. Shane McClure took the tern obtained from a minute scraping photos in figures 1,4-6,8, 10, and 13. John Koivula produced the photos in figures 12, of powder from the girdle confirmed 18, and 19. Karin Hurwit is responsible lor that it was indeed sapphirine. We figures 14 - 17. Robert Kane prepared fig- have not previously encountered ure 9.

Gem Trade Lab Notes GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 177 GEMOLOGICAL ABSTRACTS

Dona M. Dirlam, Editor

REVIEW BOARD

William E. Boyajian Gary S. Hill Michael P. Roach GIA, Santa Monica GIA, Santa Monica Andin International, New York Jeffrey M. Burbank Steve C. Hofer Gary A. Roskin GIA, Santa Monica Kensington, Connecticut GIA, Santa Monica Stephanie L. Dillon Karin N. Hurwit James E. Shigley San Clemente, California Gem Trade Lab, Inc., Los Angeles GIA, Santa Monica Bob F. Effler Robert C. Kammerling Franceye Smith GIA, Santa Monica GIA, Santa Monica GIA, Santa Monica Joseph 0. Gill Neil Letson Carol M. Stockton Gill & Shorten Ltd., San Francisco Palm Beach, Florida GIA, Santa Monica Fred L. Gray Shane F. McClure Sally A. Thomas Richter's, Georgia Gem Trade Lab., Inc., Los Angeles GIA, Santa Monica Mahinda Gunawardene Elise B. Misiorowski Jill M. Walker Idar-Oberstein, Germany GIA, Santa Monica GIA, Santa Monica

COLORED STONES AND tion on grading seems to be a thoughtful study in ambi- ORGANIC MATERIALS guity: While four grades are mentioned, possible price The black is back. H. Dennert, Asian Jewelry, ranges are given for only three of these. January/February 1985, pp. 10- 11. Dennert breezes through the whole spectrum in a scant two pages, including illustrations, leaving the Here, in an extremely brief overview, is a "who's who" reader to wonder when a complete report will be forth- and "what's what" of the black pearl industry. There is a coming. For all of its brevity, though, this article is smattering of information on sources, processing, and better than the dearth of information that has been supply and demand. In addition, some of the important available in the past. Archie Curtis people involved in pearling in French Polynesia are named. The author aptly points out that black refers to Blue from Ottre, Venn-Stavelot Massif, the shell of the animal. The pearls range in color from Belgium: a new example of intervalence charge- dark gray to light yellow-green. However, the informa- transfer in the aluminum-silicate polymorphs. K. Langer, E. Halenius, and A. Fransolet, Bulletin de Miniiralogie, Vol. 107, 1984, pp. 587-596. Andalusite is an uncommon gemstone that is found This section is designed to provide as complete a record as either in metamorphic rocks or as a detrital mineral in possible of the recent lilerature on gems and gemology. Articles sediments in Brazil, Sri Lanka, Burma, and other are selected for abstracting solely at the discretion of the section editor and her reviewers, and space limitations may require that localities. It occurs in a range of colors (usually pinkish we include only those articles that will be of greatest interest to our or greenish) and is often strongly pleochroic. Some at- readership, tractive blue andalusite was recently found in the Ottre Inquiries for reprints of articles abstracted must be addressed to region of western Belgium. Here it occurs as tabular the author or publisher of the original material, crystals up to 1 cm in length in metamorphosed The reviewer of each article is identified by his or her initials at the sedimentary rocks in association with quartz, , end of each abstract. Guest reviewers are identified by their full and . The crystals have refractive indices of names. about a = 1.637, /3 = 1.642, and y = 1.647, and are dis- 0 7985 Gemological Institute of America tinctly pleochroic from blue in the ordinary direction to colorless along the other two axes. The blue color is

178 Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 caused by the tail of a strong absorption band centered at from Wyoming were examined by transmission 770 nm. This absorption band is attributed to an Fe2+- electron microscopy (TEM)in order to better understand Fe3+ charge-transfer mechanism. No indication is given the extreme toughness of this material. These examina- in the article as to the abundance of these crystals or tions showed that the jade specimens consist of clusters whether they could be faceted. IES of very small lath-like crystals. Within each cluster the c-axes of the cystals are approximately parallel, but the Eudialyt aus Kanada (Eudialyte from Canada]. U. Henn, clusters themselves are randomly oriented. It is sug- Zeitschrift der Deutschen Gemmologischen gested that the clusters are the result of recrystallization Gesellschaft, Vol. 34, No. 1/2, 1985, pp. 76-78. of strained crystals, and that they inherit the Because of its higher zirconium content (about 30%), crystallographic orientation of the original crystals. The eudialyte occurs only in Zr-rich deposits. The refractive extreme toughness of jade isattributed to a indices are n,. = 1.600- 1.601, nu = 1.596-1.597, with a number of submicroscopic features, including the sizes, birefringence of 0.004. Pinkish red eudialyte from shapes, and orientations of the very small crystals within Kippaw in Quebec, Canada, occurs in transparent, gem- the clusters and the nature of the intervening grain quality material. Similar stones are also found in boundaries. Two additional factors noted are the mono- . Microprobe chemical analyses of both the mineralic nature of nephrite jade and the lack of se- Canadian and the Swedish material, as well as the opti- condary alteration minerals along grain boundaries. cal absorption spectrum of the Canadian eudialyte, are IES provided. MG Untersuchungen an Kornerupin und Sinhalit von Farblose und Cordierit-Katzenaugen aus Sri Elahera, Sri Lanka (Investigations on kornerupine Lanka (Colorless cordierite and cat's-eye and sinhalite from Elahera, Sri Lanka]. U. Henn, from Sri Lanka). H. Banlc, Zeitschrift der Deutschen Zeitschrift der Deutschen Gemmologischen Gemmologisclien Gesellschaft, Vol. 34, No. 1/2, Geselhchaft, Vol. 34, No. 1/2, 1985, pp. 13- 19. 1985, pp. 79-80. During a recent visit to a new gem locality in the central- The mineial. cordierite (often called iolite by gemolo- province of Sri Lanka, the author obtained samples of gists) comm;only occurs in a blue color. However, it has kornerupine and sinhalite for which he describes the now been found as a colorless stone in Sri Lanka. The chemistry, spectra, and inclusions. The chemical prop- iron content is very low, which further lowers the physi- erties of both gemstones are almost identical to those cal of the stone. The recorded refractive indi- reported by other investigators for stones from Sri ces for the colorless cordierite are n, = 1.527, ny = 1.532, Lanka. The inclusions found are typical two-phase and n, = 1.536, the lowest indices ever observed for gem feathers and with haloes. Microprobe chemical cordierite. The specific gravity is 2.55 g/cm3. analyses and optical absorption spectra for both mate- A rough grayish white stone that was also thought rials are reported. Six photomicrographs are also to be cordierite revealed a cat's-eye effect that is due to included. MG unidentified fibrous inclusions. MG DIAMONDS Glimpses of a Tertiary forest in . C. 0. Poinar, Pacific Horticulture, Vol. 46, No. 3, 1985, Aggregation and dissolution of small and extended de- pp. 39-41. feet structures in type la diamond. L. A. Bursill and "The age of Dominican amber ranges from twenty to R. W. Claisher, American Mineralogist, Vol. 70, thirty million years, and no one knows what kinds of No. 5/6, 1985, pp. 608-618. forests grew in that part of the world in the early While much of this state-of-the-art discussion of nitro- Miocene." Professor Poinar, an entomologist at the gen in type la diamonds will seem overly technical to University of California, Berkeley, shows how plant most gemologists, it is nonetheless worth the extra ef- parts included in amber are helping to disclose that fort that may be involved in disentangling the meat of information. All sorts of biological matter, from bacteria the article from the scientific discourse. The article to parts of angiospermous plants, can be found preserved focuses on the distribution of nitrogen in type la gem- in amber. A page of clear and delightful photographs by quality diamonds, which encompass approximately the author shows a petal, a leaflet, part of a flower, a 95% of all gem diamonds. twig, moss, and a seed. FS The authors beein- with an excellent discussion of the various ways in which nitrogen can be bonded into An investigation of nephrite jade by electron micro- the atomic structure of diamonds. The accompanying scopy. M. Dorling and J. Zussman, Mineralogical diagrams and tabulated definitions take much of the Magazine, Vol. 49, No. 1, 1985, pp. 3 1-36. confusion out of terms such as "N3 center" and "split- Nephrite jade is a form of the amphibole minerals nitrogen interstitial" that are slowly their way and . Several specimens of nephrite into the gemological literature in association with dis-

Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 179 cussions of the causes of color in diamonds. The report ernments of many countries neighboring South Africa proceeds with a description of how nitrogen atoms have limited the choices of their inhabitants and made migrate through the diamond structure to form one or them poorer. A lifelong foe of apartheid, Oppenheimer another type of color center. These processes were re- opposes the disinvestment approach taken by some produced in the laboratory at high temperatures and countries and companies to try to force change. He fears pressures, but they have by no means been reduced to that the change some have in mind is to a socialist/ standard recipes. While the extreme conditions under Marxist government and that this can best be deterred which these experiments were performed preclude any by the strong presence of capitalist engagement. Readers practical commercial applications, this is an example of of Gems es) Gemology will enjoy this personal and pleas- the type of important research that is being done inter- ant article. lames R. Lucey nationally on natural and artificially induced color mechanisms in diamonds, and that will no doubt benefit Siberian diamonds. R. V. Huddlestone, Journal of the gemological community in the determination of Gemmology, Vol. 19, No. 4, 1984, pp. 348-369. color origin in diamonds. Based on a 1983 lecture presented by the former director The article is accompanied by numerous diagrams, of London's Diamond Laboratory to the Gemmological including excellent depictions of the diamond structure Association of Great Britain, this article provides a fas- in various configurations of nitrogen, and fascinating cinating glimpse of the Russian diamond industry. high-resolution electron microscope photomicrographs Diamonds were first found in Siberia in 1829, but of actual defects in diamonds that show structural not until Larisa Popugayeva's 1954 discovery of the features as small as several Angstroms in diameter, Zarnista (Thunderflash) and subsequent Mir (Peace] CMS pipes was Russia's potential as a world-class producer realized. In 1958, Mir began production, and the nearby Diamond mining: a South African adventure. J. town of Mirny (built in 1957 expressly to support the Thompson, Modern Jeweler, Vol. 84, No. 5, 1985, mine) was occupied by the workers and their families. pp. 24-33. Mir, along with a number of other primary and This panoramic view of South African diamond mining alluvial deposits (a map accompanying the article shows caters to jewelers who believe that broad product 12 Siberian deposits), has produced over 10,000,000 knowledge will enhance their careers. Employing just carats annually since 1977. Since 1978 (when Zaire pro- enough statistics and details to illustrate his points, Joe duction declined), the USSR has been the world's largest Thompson unravels the geography, geology, mining producer of diamonds. Huddlestone expects the Siberian methods, and recovery techniques of the South African mines to be productive for many decades. He estimates diamond kingdom. Such information equips jewelers to the quality to be 20% gem and 80% industrial. The answer customers' questions and stimulate their average weight of the rough is reported at 0.50-0.55 ct, interest. and a number of octahedral "glassies" are illustrated. The article covers the De Beers-owned/controlled The article does not specify to what extent the pipes are mines in South Africa, Botswana, and Namibia, all of still open-cast mined or underground-shaft mined. which together produced 23.3 million carats in 1984- The separation plant at Mirny is perhaps the world's more than half the world's total production. largest: the 14 windowless stories of roaring, almost Thompson's facts may be a welcome review for many totally automated, machinery that operates around the readers, but most will discover something new, such as clock "sometimes produces enough diamonds in one "Fanaka10,~~a language derived from English, Afrikaans, day to pay for the annual operating cost of the plant." and five native dialects that is spoken in the mines to Ore from the Aikal (Glory)mine, in the Arctic Circle, is overcome language barriers. Phrases such as "diamond trucked across 250 miles of tundra also to be processed fever" and "wonderland" typify the writer's ambition to in Mirny. imbue his topic with an adventurous, human character. Six thousand to 10,000 Russians are employed in Richard F. Buonomo the Soviet cutting industry. Russian cutting is reputed to be of very high quality. Meet the king of minerals. K. Doyle, CivilizedMan, Vol. Two controversies related to Russian diamonds are 2, No. 8, 1985, pp. 54-67. addressed. Huddlestone controverts Edward Epstein's Doyle presents a rare and sympathetic view of the man 1982 claim that the Russians are synthesizing signifi- who has guided Anglo American Corporation and De cant quantities of gem diamond. He contends that the Beers over the past three decades: Harry Oppenheimer. same greenish, sharp-edged octohedra that Epstein finds The profile includes fascinating glimpses of suspiciously uniform are feasibly typical for a given nat- Oppenheimer's family, his business career, his South ural deposit. Furthermore, the current cost of synthesiz- African estates, his political philosophy, and even his ing gem diamond is at least 10 times that of mining the manner of entertaining. Mr. Oppenheimer is portrayed natural stones, and the sharp-edged octahedron would as a lion of capitalism, convinced that the socialist gov- not be the most weight-effective shape to produce.

180 Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 Huddlestone also argues, but with more conjecture, between 50 and 90 kV, depending on the size of the pearl. against the "rumor" that Russians occasionally "flood" The X-ray film is Kodak type M. Seven X-radiographs of the market with their polished goods. Since 1972, when different types of pearls illustrate this informative Moscow modified, then terminated, their CSO (De article. KNH Beers) contract, Moscow's marketing has been problem- atic; indeed, some Russian diamonds still find their way Ein verbesserter Probenhalter und seine Anwendung into London CSO sights. Huddlestone accepts a Russian auf Probleme der Unterscheidung natiirlicher und official's statement that overselling could depress dia- synthetischer Rubine, sowie natiirlicher und syn- mond prices and therefore would not be in ~ussia'sbest thetischer Amethyste (An improved sample holder interest. This premise is perhaps too simple for a coun- and its application to the distinction of natural and try that produces 25% of the world's total diamond synthetic ruby and amethyst), K. Schmetzer, Zeit- output and yet also suffers well-publicized, cyclical, schrift der Deu tschen Gemmologischen Gesell- cash shortages. [For a more involved treatment of this schaft Vol. 34, No. 1/2, 1985, pp. 30-47. topic, see: "An Interview with GIA1s Glenn Nord," In normal gemological practice, the horizontal gem , February, 1985.) Richard F. Buonomo microscope with immersion fluid employs a stone holder. This can easily be rotated 360°verticall while INSTRUMENTS AND TECHNIQUES the stone is immersed, and a great deal of information can thus be obtained. The improved version of the stone Application de la radiographie en bijouterie-jaoillerie holder described in this paper can be rotated horizon- (Application of X-radiography in jewelry). J.-P. tally as well as vertically. The vertical axis is fixed with a Poirot, Revue de Gemmologie a.f.g., No. 82, 1985, dial that has 360 subdivisions. With the help of this pp. 15-17. new sample holder, the optic axis of a cut gemstone can The author discusses the use of X-radiography in identi- be placed parallel to the microscope axis so that the fying natural and cultured pearls. First, the structural angles between crystal faces can be determined. For ex- differences of natural and cultured pearls are explained. ample, natural ruby can be distinguished from most A natural pearl can be formed by any pearl-producing commonly available synthetic rubies by using the new mollusk such as the pearl oyster [Meleagrina or Marga- stone holder to help determine characteristic angles be- ritifera) in 'saltwater or by various pearl-producing tween the growth planes of the material. The modified mussels in freshwater. An intruding parasite (usually a stone holder can also be used to determine the twinning cestodel causes the mollusk to secrete concentric nacre- nature in amethyst, which can lead to the separation of ous layers (a mixture of aragonite, a carbonate, natural from synthetic stones. These techniques are apt and conchiolin, an organic keratin] around the irritant. to be difficult, however, for the gemologist not thor- Occasionally, the nacreous layers will be richer in or- oughly familiar with crystallography. ganic material, thus forming darker center layers that The article is well illustrated with diagrams and 31 can slightly influence the appearance of the pearl. The photographs. MG term blue pearl is applied in this instance. A cultured pearl is formed by the artificial insertion Moglichkeiten und Grenzen der rontgenographischen of a nucleus, which causes the mollusk to secrete nacre- Untersuchung von Perlen (Possibilities and limita- ous layers around the irritant. In saltwater oysters, a tions of X-radiographic investigations of pearls]. I. round mother-of-pearl bead together with a piece of graft Lorenz and K. Schmetzer, Zeitschrift der tissue will produce a round pearl. Freshwater mussels Deutschen Gemmologischen Gesellschaft, Vol. 34, such as Dipsas plicatus (LakeBiwa) will produce irregu- No. 1/2, 1985, pp. 57-68. lar-shaped pearls around the organic material. Various X-ray methods have been used to distinguish X-radiography reveals the structural differences be- between natural and cultured pearls for many years. tween the different types of pearls so that natural versus Such methods can now be applied to most of the natural cultured origin can be established. Specifically, organic and cultured pearls that are currently available in the material such as conchiolin is very transparent to X- trade. To demonstrate the usefulness of these methods, rays, whereas nacreous layers that contain less organic the authors conducted a systematic investigation of material are more opaque. Therefore, on an X-radio- pearls, using direct radiography as well as X-ray diffrac- graph, the conchiolin layers will show up as dark lines; a tion techniques and luminescence in response to X-ray bead-nucleated pearl, however, will show one distinct excitation. A simple diffraction camera was developed demarcation line around the round nucleus, and a that produces diffraction patterns of pearls at precise tissue-nucleated pearl will show an irregular void in the angles. The sample holder was constructed on the prin- center of the pearl. ciple of a double-circle goniometer, such that rotations According to the author, the Laboratory of the are possible in the horizontal as well as the vertical Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Paris employs a planes. With the use of an additional sample holder, Securix X-ray unit, which is operated for three minutes diffraction patterns of one single pearl from a necklace

Gemological Abstracts GEMS A GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 181 can be produced. Unfortunately, during the investiga- visible light range. Thus, the immersion method is tion of freshwater pearls [natural and cultured) with shown to have distinct advantages. X-ray diffraction techniques, it was found that radiation Unfortunately, the distinction of natural from syn- defects generate a dark spot on the pearl's surface. thetic rubies as described by Bosshart depends on the Satisfactory results were obtained in the determi- accurate measurement of an absorption minimum nation of natural freshwater pearls, natural saltwater found only in the ultraviolet range; the strong absorp- pearls, cultured freshwater pearls [withor without seed), tion of this region by methylene iodide effectively cultured saltwater pearls with seed, and Keshi pearls. negates its value as an immersion liquid in the spectro- Some difficulties were encountered in the distinction of photometric distinction of natural from synthetic a small number of Keshi cultured pearls from natural rubies. CMS saltwater pearls and in the separation of a small number of non-bead-nucleated cultured freshwater pearls from JEWELRY ARTS natural freshwater pearls because of the overlap of their characteristic radiographic features. MG The ancient tslung jade tube. L. Berglund, Arts of Asia, Vol. 4, No, 5, 1984, pp. 56-62. New techniques in shaft sinking. J. Collings, Optima, Lars Berglund writes a refreshing article on ts'ung jade Vol. 32, No. 3, 1984, pp. 116-125. tubes, Chinese art objects of unknown function and symbolism, some of which may be over 4,000 years old. For the last half-century, there have been few important Since much mystery surrounds the purpose of the ts'ung changes in the basic approach to sinking deep mining jade tube, Berglund begins by first quoting Laufer's opin- shafts. The conventional method employs a large crew ion that it is a symbol of Earth as a deity. He also presents operating hand-held rock drills at the bottom of the Karlgren's theory that it is instead a stand for ancestral shaft. The holes are then packed with explosives. After tablets of phallic origin. Berglund, however, feels that the explosion, the rock is removed and the shaft is lined Laufer's theory has more validity-in fact, it paves the with concrete. way for his own notion of what the ts'ung tube repre- In the diamond and gold mines in South Africa, new sents. methods are beginning to appear. One method uses Laufer notes that much of Chinese philosophy is pneumatically driven drills that are held in a rig called a expressed by a fixed numerical system, and that Chinese "jumbo." Since more downward pressure can be placed art frequently reflects this mental construction. On the on the drill, fasterpenetrationis possible. At the Premier basis of these observations, Berglund proposes a new diamond mine, a method called sequential raise-boring interpretation for the ts'ung tube: it is a fixed numerical is used. Here, a pilot hole is drilled to a tunnel below. system whose meaning is found in a magic square of Then a drill head is attached to the piping from below three generally called the Lo Shu, that is, the diagram of and brought upwards while rotating, which reams the the Lo River. This mathematical diagram is supposed to hole to a larger dimension. have been presented by a turtle of the Lo River to Yu, the Experiments are currently being conducted on heroic founder of the Hsia dynasty, as a model of gov- boring shafts without a pilot hole. Economics is the ernment virtue and order. [The Hsia dynasty is still governing factor in developing new techniques in shaft regarded as mythical, although indications that it did sinking, so, to be successful, any new method must be at exist are being researched now.) The balance of least no more expensive than conventional methods. Berglund's article is spent explaining the numerical This article is well illustrated with three color photo- form of the Lo Shu as well as other applications that the graphs and four drawings. GS H Lo Shu had in Chinese symbolism. Illustrated with many photographs of ts'ung tubes, and diagrams of the Spectrophotometric measurements of faceted rubies. Lo Shu, this article presents an interesting theory that A. Banerjee, J. Himmer, and H.-W. Schrader, Journal will undoubtedly stimulate much discussion among of Gemmology, Vol. 19, No. 6, 1985, pp. 489-493. jade scholars. JM w In 1982, G. Bosshart described the separation of natural from synthetic rubies by means of a dual-beam spectro- Francis Sperisen: master lapidary. J. Frosh, American photometer. However, effects brought about by refrac- Craft, Vol. 45, No. 1, 1985, pp. 40-43. tion and reflection of the light beam by the on This article is a short biography of Francis Sperisen, the gems have reduced the usefulness of Bosshart's test. The innovative San Francisco lapidary whose methods immersion of faceted natural and synthetic rubies in opened a new world of creativity to jewelers and de- methylene iodide is now proposed as a way to reduce signers. It reveals the special talents and interests that light scattering and resulting noise on the spectrum. As led to Mr. Sperisen's unique style of gemstone cutting. the authors point out, methylene iodide absorbs virtu- Because the lapidary arts in the early 1900s were usually ally all light below about 440 nm, but very clean spectral trade secrets handed from father to son, Sperisen (whose diagrams are obtained and illustrated for the rest of the father was not a gem cutter) taught himself the skill by

182 Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 observation and experimentation. In 1935, he founded these pieces can add color and a touch of drama to any the Mineral Society of San Francisco, whereby he con- woman's wardrobe. tributed to the dispersal of the lapidary arts through Each of these designers has created a distinctive teaching. Collaboration with innovative designer- style; yet when all of these styles are viewed together, jeweler Margaret De Patta inspired further originality in they reflect the depth and complexity of the modern Sperisen's work and brought his creations to the atten- woman. Picasso's cold, bold jade collide with tion of other jewelers, thus creating a demand and a Peretti's slippery, free-form hearts, while Cummings's market for nontraditional cuts. GS H clean geometries complement Breslowls sinuous chains and pearls. Gold. P. Linden, Town e) Country, Vol. 139, No. 5061, Clearly, these individuals have been successful in 1985, pp. 130-131, 170, and 174. expressing themselves through their work, and in doing This article highlights gold in history, , and the so they have given more women the opportunity to stock market, with special focus on jewelry fashion. express themselves through affordable high-fashion Passe include tri-, charm , jewelry. SAT memorials, zodiac signs, and black and blue gold. Tex- tures such as florentine, filagree, and are also Profile: Nancy Ancowitz. Saturday Review, July/ fashions of the past. The latest fashion trends in gold August 1985, pp. 7-8. jewelry include the use of 18K gold and the combination The meteoric career of 25-year-old jewelry designer of gold with a white metal such as white gold, platinum, Nancy Ancowitz is highlighted in this brief article, silver, , or titanium. Bright, highly pol- which tells how the young woman, who had studied ished surfaces or a smooth, matte finish put the finish- language and communications in college, started her ing touches on the new look in gold jewelry. Dainty own jewelry catalog-sales company at the age of 20. jewelry has given way to massive, overstated pieces. Five years and a Masters in Business Administration According to the author, this is a response to volumi- later, Ancowitz has parlayed her creative flair and her nous, exaggerated shapes in clothing. Jean-Claude Affol- business acumen into a thriving profession. Her trade- ter, of Cubelin, foresees yellow gold set with pearls and mark is a rather fanciful combination of various decora- colored stones as the newest fashion trend. or the very tive elements-such as the placement of gemstones latest-brown diamonds. within ball bearings to create bracelets and . The use of alloys to increase wearability or vary the Through an aggressive self-marketing program, color of gold, the origin of the word karat, and defini- Ancowitz succeeded in catching the eyes of jewelry re- tions of solidgold, gold-filled, gold-plated, and Vermeil tailers as well as of fashion magazine editors. Her gold- are all clearly and simply explained. plated ball-bearing creations can now be seen in the According to the International Gold Corporation, pages of magazines such as Glamour and New York, untapped resources will carry us comfortably into the often modeled by her dog, Moffat. The essay features 21st century. The largest supplier of gold is South Africa three photographs that spotlight the jewelry, the artist, [responsible for nearly half the world's supply). Russia and her dog. provides an estimated 23%, Canada 5%, and the USA This article is part of the "Briefings" section of and Brazil 3.5% each. Saturday Review, a section that often features small Governments and "international monetary insti- articles on the jewelry arts. For example, elsewhere in tutions" are the largest users of gold. Next is the jewelry the section [p. 20) is a note on the recent auctioning by industry, at approximately 750 tons a year, followed by Christie's of the Cartier "Mystery Clock," the first of a dentistry and other industries. Gold coins, bullion, fu- series of 12 animal clocks fashioned by Cartier in the tures, options, and certificates are also mentioned, but 1920s and 1930s. The , mother-of-pearl, and rock- details are not supplied by the author. In conclusion, the crystal timepiece (with a diamond-studded dial) had article implies that gold can be not only a financial been "lost" for some 40 years, and fetched $264,000 at investment, but also an investment in beauty and the recent auction. 1MB fashion. Marcia Hucker Jewelry's new glitterati. R. Lubar, United, SYNTHETICS AND SIMULANTS Vol. 30, No. 1, 1985, pp. 33-36. Farbloser Chrysoberyll-naturlich oder synthetisch? Today's top women jewelry designers are producing (Colorless -natural or synthetic?). K. pieces that are "assertive and sensuous-like the eight- Schmetzer, Zeitschrift der Deutschen Gemmolo- ies woman." This article sketches the work [and back- gischen Gesellschaft, Vol. 34, No. 1/2, 1985, pp. grounds) of designers Paloma Picasso, Elsa Peretti, 6-12. Angela Cummings, and Marsha Breslow. Their dynamic Natural are colored by the presence of trace jewelry is equally brilliant whether it is worn at the elements such as iron, chromium, or, in rare instances, office or a gala-or both. Priced from $40 to $110,000, vanadium. Those that contain iron are primarily yellow,

Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 183 yellowish brown, or brown. Iron and chromium are re- The best method for initial detection is to examine sponsible for the most prized change-of-color variety, the stone in reflected light. If an area has an obvious alexandrite. However, colorless chrysoberyl is seldom differencein luster compared to an adjacent area, such as encountered in the trade and those stones found are said is seen in a garnet-and-glass doublet, then further inves- to be from Burma or Sri Lanka. The former, however, tigation is warranted. Care must be taken not to confuse tend to have a light greenish tone and therefore cannot a filled cavity with a natural included crystal that breaks be classified as truly colorless chrysoberyl. the surface. SFM The two colorless samples investigated in this study were purchased in Sri Lanka. The physical and Man-made rubies (How to detect the latest synthetic chemical properties of these two chrysoberyls were in- gems-part 1) and Synthetic review (How to detect vestigated in order to determine whether they were of the latest synthetic gems-part 2). P. Read, Cuna- natural or synthetic origin. The data for the two chryso- dian Jeweller, Vol. 105, Nos. 9 and 10, pp. 21 and 29, beryls were compared with those of natural near- respectivcly. colorless, yellow, brown, and change-of-color chryso- These two brief articles summarize the identifying beryls from different localities such as Sri Lanka, Brazil, characteristics of a number of synthetics that have ap- the USSR, Zimbabwe, and Tanzania. Further compari- peared on the market since 1970. sons were done with synthetic alexandrite from three The first deals with three synthetic rubies-the different manufacturers. Kashan, Knischka, and Ramaura products. Inclusions, The refractive indices, color, chromium and iron color zoning, and growth anomalies are keys to the contents, and inclusions were sufficiently similar for identification of these materials, and are listed accord- the two chrysoberyls and other comparison stones that ingly. In addition, the following can be of assistance: no conclusion could be drawn as to origin. However, dichroism (Kashan),morphology and short-wave ultra- X-ray fluorescence analysis revealed the presence of gal- violet transmission (Knischka),and long-wave ultravio- lium in all the natural specimens that were examined in let fluorescence (Ramaura). this study; no gallium was found in the two colorless The second part summarizes key identifying prop- samples. This suggests a synthetic origin, but Dr. erties of several other man-made gems: Chatham syn- Schmetzer feels that this is insufficient evidence on thetic orange and synthetic blue sapphire (inclusions; which to base a firm conclusion. Five photomicrographs ultraviolet fluorescence in the blue synthetic sapphire); are included with the article. MG Lennix synthetic emerald (inclusions, refractive index, birefringence, specific gravity); Biron synthetic emerald Glass infilling of cavities in natural ruby. K. Scarratt, (inclusions); Regency synthetic emerald (inclusions, R. R. Harding, Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 19, short-wave ultraviolet transmission, ultraviolet and No. 4, 1984, pp. 293-297. visible-light fluorescence); Creative Crystals synthetic The most recent ruby identification problem is surface alexandrite (inclusions, short-wave ultraviolet trans- cavities that have been filled with glass. The first of parency); Seiko synthetic alexandrite, ruby, and sap- these rubies to show up at the British Gem Testing phire (inclusions);Seiko synthetic emerald (inclusions, Laboratory had a very large filled cavity on the pavilion refractive index, birefringence, specific gravity); and with large eye-visible gas bubbles. Subsequent stones Gilson synthetic fire opal (structure, ultraviolet have contained less conspicuous fillings with no fluorescence). bubbles. Included in each article are rough line drawings of Microprobe analysis of one of the fillings proved the some of the key inclusions mentioned. The articles, substance to be essentially an alkali alumino-silicate while they provide some excellent information, would glass. The refractive index was approximately 1.51 and have been even more useful had they contained some the hardness less than six. photomicrographs of characteristic inclusions. RCK

184 Gemological Abstracts GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 John I. Koivula, Editor Elise Misiorowski, Contributing Editor

DIAMONDS Sierra Leone Australia Three large diamonds [over 100 ct each)have been found Although kimberlites have been discovered in the Bru- by the Precious Minerals Mining Co. of Sierra Leone nette Downs region of the Northern Territory in Aus- since they acquired a 49.5% share of Diminco from tralia, it has not yet been determined whether they are British Petroleum. Two of the diamonds, a 285-ct yellow diamondiferous. Drilling was done to investigate certain diamond and an "exceptionally good" 142-ct diamond, magnetic anomalies that were similar to kimberlite were discovered on the Yingema lease area near areas in South Africa. Partners in this venture are Tankoro. (Mining Journal, July 12, 1985) Ashton Mining NL, Aberfoyle Ltd., AOG Minerals, and United States Australian Exploration Ltd. (Mining Journal, April 26, Exploration for diamonds among the kimberlite de- 1985) posits in northern Michigan continues. Kimberlites in Michigan were first discovered 14 years ago by two geol- Botswana ogists who did not publish their findings. In 1981, a U.S. Botswana produced more diamonds in 1984 than in Geological Survey team reported kimberlite formations 1983. The Jwaneng mine is responsible for about two- which prompted the first diamond exploration. Three thirds of the total output, with a balance of both gem- companies have seen involved individually in the quality and industrial diamonds. (Mining Journal, search for diamonds over the last several years: Dow March 1, , 1985), Chemical Co., Amselco Exploration Inc. of Reno NV, and Exmin Corp. of Bloomington IN. Ghana Although none of the companies will discuss their The government of Ghana is expanding its diamond- findings, there is evidently enough material of interest mining concessions to include the Birim River region to keep them looking. Progress is slow because much of situated west of their present concession in Akwatia. the kimberlite areas are covered by glacial deposits hun- The diamonds, which are believed to have been de- dreds of feet deep. [Akron Beacon Journal, July 16, 1985) posited during the Pleistocene Age, are found in the surrounding deep flats, in tributaries, and in terrace COLORED STONES gravels up to 36 m above the existing level of the Birim Information for the following reports on amethyst and River. No kimberlites have been reported in the area, aquamarine was provided to Gem News by Robert E. and the most important host rock for these alluvial Kane following his trip to the I.C.A. Congress in Idar- deposits is identified as a or coarse graywacke, Oberstein, West Germany, last May. with large sedimentary and volcanic fragments. (Mining Magazine, March 1985) Amethyst. Significant quantities of "clean faceting grade" amethyst are coming from a relatively new find Namibia near Maraba, in Para, Brazil, close to the gold fields. Ocean Diamond Mining [ODM)and Golden Dumps are Much of the material is of good color, and some of the two companies currently doing underwater diamond pieces weigh as much as 60 g. Very large crystals suitable mining off the west coast of Namibia. ODM1s ship, the for decorative display or carving are also being mined. Calypso, is mining around the 12 offshore islands using Reportedly, the Maraba find has made a great impact on controllable suction-dredging methods assisted by elec- the market, and material is still available at "very favor- tronic underwater surveillance. The Calypso also has able prices." Most of the large faceted stones weighed 30 equipment for sorting the dredged sediment on board. ct or less. Much of the Maraba amethyst examined was Golden Dumps is mining the Dawn Diamond Conces- in the form of partially "hammered" [broken) crystals. sionÑ5B which they had mined previously. Although All exhibited some natural crystal faces, ruling out the they claim to be usingrevolutionary methods, they have possibility of broken pieces of synthetic amethyst rough not disclosed any details of their undersea mining oper- being sold as natural. ation. Both companies anticipate the recovery of gem- quality diamonds with an average size of 0.70 ct. (Dia- Aquamarine. A steady supply of Nigerian aquamarine mond News,S.A. Jeweller, March 1985) rough continues to be imported into Idar-Oberstein,

Gem News GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 185 Figure 1. A "Star of David" sapphire from Yogo Gulch, . No lapidary work was needed to bring out this star. The photo was taken in polarized light with a first- order red compensator. The true body color of the sapphire is a pastel blue. Magnified 2 x.

West Germany, from the important deposits located in gemstones should not be marketed as investments but northern , between the two towns of Khano and should be sold for their beauty alone, and that the term Jos. A portion of this material is resold as rough, while cultured should not be applied to synthetic gemstones. the remainder is being cut in Idar-Oberstein. Some of Education of consumers and the trade alike in regard to this aquamarine was offered for sale at the 1985 Tucson colored stones was also generally endorsed, and Gem & Mineral Show in February, by several different $100,000 was pledged to fund future promotion. dealers. The question of gemstone treatments and their Much of the aquamarine from this source possesses disclosure met with a divided house. American dele- a very attractive, distinctive, intense blue color (some gates, responding to pressure from consumers in the very slightly grayish), which apparently does not require U.S., were in favor of full disclosure of all treatments, heat treating. A source in Idar-Oberstein estimates that while European delegates took the stance that if treat- a few thousand kilos of Nigerian aquamarine have been ment is permanent and undetectable by standard gem- purchased by Idar-Oberstein dealers in the past two ological equipment it need not be disclosed. years. However, because so much of the material is The detection and identification of synthetic heavily included, only 5% is considered "clean gemstones was discussed, and a need for the sharing of grade," 75% is used for carving, beads, and tumbling; information in this regard was voiced. and the remaining 20% is rejected, Color grading of gemstones was viewed as a para- Significant amounts of good-quality aquamarine dox. While there is a definite need for universal color continue to be available from , Mozam- communication, dealers fear that the elements of color bique, Zimbabwe, , Zambia, and Brazil. Aquama- in gems are too varied and subtle to define precisely. rine is also being mined in Tanzania, but details re- Most of the delegates felt that appraisals should be garding the quality and quantity produced were not performed by qualified appraisers and that dealers with- available. out these qualifications should refer clients who desire appraisal certificates to those so qualified. I.C.A. Congress. The International Colored Gemstone It was decided that facts about trade rules and regu- Association (ICA)was formed to promote colored gem- lations, taxes, and duties from the various countries stones. Their first congress, held in Idar-Oberstein on should be compiled and distributed as guidelines to the May 20-22, 1985, addressed topics of vital importance members of the I.C.A. A panel to arbitrate problems of to the trade via seminars and open discussions. Over the trade within the trade, without involving interna- 200 delegates from 23 countries, representing all as- tional courts, was proposed as well. pects of the gemstone trade, participated in the Changes in gemstonc nomenclature were discussed congress. also. It was argued that the term colored suggested arti- From the three-day sessions, several important ficial coloration. The term semiprecious was univer- points emerged. It was unanimously agreed that colored sally condemned in keeping with CIBJO1srulings.

Gem News GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 198s The elected officers of the ICA are: Roland Naftule pearl market. [Accent, March 1985; World, (USA) president, Rashmikant Durlabhji (India) 1st April 1985) vice-president, Konrad Wild (West Germany) 2nd vice- president, Stuart Robinson (USA] 1st secretary, Israel Phantom quartzes found. A new quartz mine near Eliezri (Israel)2nd secretary, Claud Barguirdjian (France) Buenopolis in , Brazil, is producing spec- treasurer. tacular crystals containing exquisite green phantoms of This first 1CA Congress was not convened to pass what appear to be a member of the . Plates resolutions, but rather to establish open communica- of hematite, rhombohedrons of dolomite or calcite, and tions on these major issues and to find common ground rutile have also been tentatively identified as inclusions to use as a base for future growth and understanding in these crystals. An article on this new find of phantom within the colored gemstone trade. quartz crystals is in preparation.

Pearls. Because of a less-than-optimum water tempera- Unique "Star of David" sapphire discovered. Sapphire ture and the lack of rain, the 1984 pearl harvest in Japan crystals from Yogo Gulch, Montana, are known for their was a disappointment. Deficient nutrition caused by the thin, tabular, window-like habit. Rough crystals will adverse weather conditions led to a high mortality rate often display small triangular growth hillocks on their for the oysters and had a detrimental effect on the nacre basal pinacoids (c-faces). The approximately 2.5-ct quality, color, and thickness of coating of the pearls that uncut shown in figure 1 is so thin and were harvested. At a recent pearl festival, the Pearl Cul- transparent that both opposite pinacoids are always in tivator's Association of Japan dumped much of the har- clear focus at the same time. What makes this crystal vest into the sea in order to insure against poor-quality unique, however, is that two triangular growth hillocks pearls being smuggled out of the country. It is estimated on opposite pinacoids are 180Â apart in rotation and that about 20% of the 1985 pearl harvest will be dis- exactly centered one over the other so that they form a posed of in this way to maintain quality standards in the perfect six-pointed Magen David.

Faberg6 Imperial Egg. The June 11 and are also found bordering areas of show, the American Gem Trade sale of a Faberge Imperial Egg at green, oyster, and lilac enamels. Association (AGTA]will occupy the Sotheby's, New York, attracted more When Mr. Malcolm Forbes Doubletree Hotel in Tucson on than usual attention. Although successfully bid $1.6 million for the February 8-13. During that time generations of Faberg6 craftsmen "Cuckoo Egg," he not only set an they will announce the winner of produced numerous ornamental auction record, but he also helped their Spectrum Award (a colored- eggs, only 55 were created for the place his collection (nowtotaling 111 stone jewelry competition). The Russian imperial family and one ahead of the 10 housed in Russia deadline for entries is January 3, presented yearly as Eastergifts. Only (atthe Kremlin's Armory Museum in 1986. For details about the event and three of these eggs have ever been Moscow). This "1 1th Egg" may be the competition, contact Stuart auctioned publicly, and this one was seen at Forbes's Galleries at 62 Fifth Woltz, P.O. Box 32086, Phoenix, AZ the first ever to be auctioned in Avenue, . (RichardF. 85064. America. Buonomo, GIA-New York) The "Cuckoo Egg" was presented by Czar Nicholas to his At the request of the gem trade, the wife. Alexandra Feodorovna, in 1900. The 1986 Tucson Gem & Mineral date of Munich's INHORGENTA A fabulous clock, it is topped by a Show will be held February 13-16 at 86-the 13th International Trade fine gold grille from which a singing the Tucson Community Center. For Fair for , Clocks, Jewellery, rooster emerges. The main body is more information, write to the Precious Stones and Silverware, and enameled with translucent violet Tucson Gem & Mineral Society, their Manufacturing Equipment, has over a patterned guilloche ground. P.O. Box 42543, Tucson, AZ 85733. been postponed and definitely fixed Diamonds and pearls adorn the clock In conjunction with theTucson for February 7- 11, 1986.

Gem News GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 187 A FIELD MANUAL FOR THE provides a good checklist of things to AMATEUR GEOLOGIST consider before making a decision. He also tries valiantly to address By Alan M. Cvancara, 256 pp., illus., the problem of the insider "lingo" publ, by Prentice-Hall, Englewood BOOK that confronts the novice. Unfortu- Cliffs, N1, 1985. US$12.95* nately, he does so by prefacing the The purpose of this book is to serve pertinent chapters with a glossary in as a companion and guide for rock REVIEWS an effort to define terms before the and collectors, naturalists, and 1 feffrey M. Embank, ~ditor~lreader wades into the text. I agree travelers. Cvancara describes how with his motives, but question his landforms are affected by streams, method: Few readers will take the glaciers, shorelines, wind, ground- trouble to master such terms until water, landslides, and volcanism. A field collect; How to sleuth stones in they encounter them in context. section on rock deformation is in- architecture or anywhere." The most Hickel certainly covers all the cluded as well. After nine chapters pleasurable chapters for this re- bases-and then some-in his dis- on various landforms, Cvancara de- viewer were: How to Read Rock cussion of the Ideal Jewelry Program votes another entire chapter to keys Weathering from Tombstones, How [part 2). Much of what he includes on for identifying them. One section, to Prospect for Gold, and Parks for his "wish list" is already available as 'Contemplating the Past," com- Geological Observation. The author off-the-shelf software, but he has a prised of three chapters, proves to be seems to have a little of something lot of clever ideas about how it can philosophical but also valuable. for everyone. best be used in the jewelry store, After 20 years of teaching geol- Since "how-to" books are very large or small. If you the jeweler have ogy at the University of North Da- popular, this one should have a wide ever wondered how you might use a kota, Cvancara has condensed and spectrum of readers. With a $12.95 computer in your business, this part incorporated his lecture notes into price tag, the book is very reasonable of the book alone is worth the pur- this handy paperback. It is valuable for what it has to offer. chase price. It includes a good dis- as a textbook, especially for first-year JUDY OWYANG cussion of how the computer can geology lectures and labs. A fine Etc. deal with the typical problems en- point of the book is that the impor- Los Angeles, CA countered in jewelry retailing, as tant geologic terms are in boldface well as in other areas of the business: job flow in the repair department, type. Cvancara writes simply, teach- THE SECOND RING: ing and informing as he goes. Most appraisals, inventory control, ac- importantly, he encourages his A JEWELER'S GUIDE counts receivable and payable, pay- readers to think. TO COMPUTERS roll, general ledger, customer mail- ing lists, and more. Cvancara's organization rates a By S. M. Hickel, 285 pp., illus., publ. high score. However, his list of I was somewhat disappointed by Pimiteoui Publications, Rodney, with the organization of the book, earth-science museums at the back MI, 1985. US$19.95 * of the book is incomplete. which would have benefited from a The book's print is easy to read At last there is a computer book writ- good edit. Moving part 3 to follow for the traveler. The quality of its ten for jewelers by a jeweler who part 1, for example, would have been illustrations is fair overall, although knows quite a bit about the subject. a major improvement, since part 3 photographs of many minerals get Hickel has set out to give jewelers a deals with important background lost in the poor black-and-white re- comprehensive and concise intro- material on computer history, lan- production. However, the mineral duction to the world of computers, guages, and trends. Part 4, "The identification table makes up for and to describe present and potential Computer's Future," is a scant 30 what is lost in the photographs. The applications of computer technology pages on computer-aided learning book does feature a reading list at the in the jewelry store. and artificial intelligence that con- end of each chapter, but it does not The book is divided into four tributes very little to the book over- have a glossary. parts: (1)What Can the Computer Do all. Overall, the format is one of a for You; (2)The "IJP," or Ideal Jew- The book is illustrated with a condensed geology lecture/lab with- elry Program; (3) Computers- number of amateurish line drawings out the academic trappings but with Languages, History, and Trends; and that are of little value. The some pleasurable, useful "how-to" (4) The Computer's Future. typewriter-quality print is readable, information for people on the run, Part 1 is an excellent introduc- although typesetting would have Cvancara tells you "How to attack a tion to computers, with a wealth of geological problem; How to read geo- sound information-both for those logical maps; How to use a Brunton who are about to take the plunge and *This book is available for purchase at compass; How to make a mineral, buy one and for those who are think- the CIA Bookstore, 1660 Stewart Street, rock, or fossil collection; How to ing about hiring a consultant. Hickel San ta Monica, CA 90404.

188 Book Reviews GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 been preferable (the author points as "semiprecious"), and ornamental proper gemological education, is out that the book was written on a stones is arbitrary and unclear, they true. As an introduction to gemol- word processor and printed on a laser also state that only diamond, ruby, ogy, what could be more appealing? printer). There is a fairly good index blue sapphire, and emerald belong to The danger of this book lies in its and glossary. the category of precious stones, or scattered bits of misinformation. For In all, I found this an informative gemstones. The opening chapter example, the section on diamond and useful book. Although not a briefly describes each of these four color description tells us: "All the great permanent reference, it cer- gems, including their durability, nuances of white are ranked on a tainly is worthwhile for jewelers color, clarity, rarity, sources, and scale from D to M, recognized inter- who are waking up to the fact that prices, and closes by citing a number nationally (the last letters vary from they will soon be at a serious disad- of common misconceptions about one country to another). The first vantage if they do not computerize gemstones. three letters, A, B, C, have not been their business. With The Second Chapter 2 recommends various used and are reserved for diamonds Ring, you'll have a sense of where to focal points for the beginning collec- even whiter than those of letter D start when you embark on the adven- tor, such as investment value, min- (but which remain to be dis- ture of buyinga computer, and you'll eral types, stone size, color, locality, covered)." Students and graduates of know a lot of the questions to ask. and cut. The next chapter deals with GIA will recognize the grading sys- Even if you are fairly computer storing, cataloguing, maintaining, tem alluded to in the first sentence. literate, this book is worth your and handling a stone collection. But given that the D grade refers to a time. The $19.95 price tag seems a There is also a discussion of irradi- complete lack of color (not white- little steep, but it is inevitable for a ated and heat-treated gemstones. ness) in a diamond, it is impossible to limited-distribution book. The microscopic examination of imagine any discovery that might DENNIS FOLTZ gemstones is the subject of chapter 4. exceed this. A, B, and C were in fact Manager, Home Study Education Chapter 5 ventures into the world of not used in order to avoid confusion GIA -Santa Monica "the professionals," with descrip- with the abundance of grading sys-

4, tions of various techniques of gem tems that had previously made use of

. I. identification and characterization. these letters. DES PIERRES PRECIEUSES The final chapter covers the identifi- Major errors aside, this book's cation of common imitations such as primary role is merely as an intro- AUX PIERRES FINES glass and assembled stones, dyed and duction, not as a textbook. The pho- By Claire and Alain da Cunha, 95 reconstituted materials, plastics, and tographs (all but two are by the au- pp., illus., publ. by Librairie Plon, synthetic gem materials. A table of thors) are plentiful, varied, colorful, Paris, France, 1984. US$24.95* 94 stones and their basic properties and frequently more informative This book is aimed at the amateur completes the book. than the text. For the serious gemol- who wishes to collect gems for a Obviously, one cannot condense ogy student, this book is too basic; hobby or as an investment. Unfortu- all gemological knowledge into 95 while for the amateur, who is less nately, the book opens with a dis- pages, but the da Cunhas have done a able to spot errors, its usefulness is cussion of gem classification that is remarkable job of surveying the topic hampered by its pitfalls. The book, no longer used by gemologists and in a way that is at once fascinating written entirely in French, is not cur- yet is emphasized by the very title of and technically involving. The rently available in English. the book. Although the authors point reader is led to believe that he is as CAROL M. STOCKTON out that the distinction between capable of gaining and utilizing these Research Department precious, "fine" (previously known skills as anyone-which, with GIA -Santa Monica

Book Reviews GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985 189 GEMS & GEMOLOGY is an inter- national publication of original con- tributions [not previo~islypublished in English) concerning the study of gemstones and research in gemology ind related fields. Topics covered include [but are not limited to) col- ored stones) diamonds) gem instru- ment% gem localities, gem substi- tutes (synthetics))gemstones for the Previous Studies, Methods) Results, should be considered whenever the collector, iewelry arts, and retail discussion^ Conclusion. Other heads bulk of information to be conveyed management. Manuscripts may be and subheads should be used as the in a section threatens to overwhelm submitted as: subject warrants. For general style, the text. Original Contributions-full-length see A Manual of Style [The Univer- Figures. Please have line figures articles describing previously un- sity of Chicago Press) Chicago). (graphs, charts) etc.) professionally published studies and laboratory or Reierences. References should be drawn ancl photographed. High-con- field research. Such articles should used for any information that is trast, glossy) blaclz-and-white prints be no longer than 6,000 words (24 talzen directly from another publi- are preferred. double-spaced, typewritten pages) cation, to document ideas and facts Submit black-and-white photo- plus tables and illustrations. attributed to-or facts discovered graphs and photomicrographs in the Gemology in Review-comprehen- by-another writer, and to refer the final desired size if possible. sive reviews of topics in the field. A reader to other sources for addi- Color photographs-35 mm slides maximum of 8,000 words (32 dou- tional information on a particular or 4 x 5 transparencies-are ble-spaced) typewritten pages) is subject. Please cite references in the encouraged. text by the last name of the author(s) recommended. All figure legends sl~ouldbe typed and the year of publication-plus Notes & New Techniques-brief the specific page referred to) if ap- double spaced on a separate page. preliminary communications of re- propriate-in parentheses (e.g., Lid- Where a magnification is appropri- cent discoveries or developments in ate and is not inserted on the photo) dicoat and Copeland, 1967, p. 10). gemology and related fields (e.g., new please include it in the legend. The references listed at the end of instruments and instrumentation the paper sl~ouldbe typed double techniq~les)gem minerals for the spaced in alphabetical order by the MANUSCRIPT SUBMISSION collector, and lapidary techniques or last name of the senior author. Please Please send three copies of each new uses for old techniques). Arti- list only those references actually manuscript [and three sets of figures cles for this section should be about cited in the text [or 111 the tables or and labels) as well as material for all 1)oOO-3,000 words (4-12 double- figures). sections to the Editorial Office: spaced, typewritten pages). Include the following information, Gems d Ge~nology,1660 Stewart Street, Santa Monica) CA 90404. MANUSCRIPT PREPARATION in the order given here, for each ref- erence: [a)all author names (sur- In view of U.S. copyright law, a All material) including tables, leg- names followed by initials); [b) the copyright release will be required on ends) and references, should be typed year of publication, in parentheses; all articles published in Gems t9 double spaced on 8% x 11" (21 x 28 [c) for a journal, the full title of the Gemology. cnl) sheets. The various components article or) for a booli, the full title of No payment is macle for articles of the manuscript should be pre- the boolz citedj and (d)for a journal, published in Gems t9 Gemology. pared and arranged as follows: the full title of the journal plus vol- However) for each article the au- Title page. Page 1 should provide: ume number and incl~~sivepage thors will receive SO free copies of [a)the article title; [b)the full name numbers of the article cited or) for the issue in which their paper of each author with his or her affil- a booli, the publisher of the boolz appeared. iation [the institution) city) and state and the city of publication. Sample or country where helshe worlzs); and references are as follows: REVIEW PROCESS [c)aclznowledgments. Daragh P.J., Sanders J.V. [ 1976) Manuscripts are examined by the Abstract. The abstract (approxi- . Scientific American, Vol. Editor, one of the Associate Editors, mately 150 words for a feature arti- 234, pp. 84-95. and at least two reviewers. The au- cle, 75 words for a note) should state Liddicoat R.T. Jr., Copeland L.L. thors will remain anonymous to the the purpose of the article, what was [ 1967) The ]etvelers' ~Vlan~jal,2nd reviewers. Decisions of the Editor done) and the main conclusions. ed. Gemological Institute of are final. All material accepted for Text, Papers should follow a clear America, Santa Monica) CA. publication is subject to copyedit- outline with appropriate heads. For Tables. Tables can be very useful in ing; authors will receive galley proofs example, for a research paper, the presenting a large amount of detail for review and are held fully respon- headings might be: Introduction, in a relatively small space) and sible for the content of their articles.

190 Suggestions for Authors GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1985