Abruzzese Soppressata, Mozzarella, and Olives Exiles from Cockaigne
ANTIPASTO Abruzzese Soppressata, Mozzarella, and Olives Exiles from Cockaigne © 2010 State University of New York Press, Albany © 2010 State University of New York Press, Albany ABRUZZESE SOPPRESSATA, MOZZARELLA, AND OLIVES A NTIPASTO LITERALLY MEANS “before the meal.” Accompanied by a glass of wine, these cold dishes welcome guests, stimulate the appetite, and ease conversation. Although some antipasti are as elaborate as French hors d’oeuvres and Spanish tapas, this tradi- tional recipe is refreshingly simple. Simplicity, however, requires quality. Use only the freshest mozzarella and, if possible, artisan soppressata. Commercial salami is riskier. Bismarck’s grim joke about sausages and democracy remains all too valid. The U.S. Department of Agriculture forbids the import of Italian soppressata, but the best domestic brand is Columbus. The company’s Farm to Fork program guarantees freshness. I NGREDIENTS • 1 pound Abruzzese soppressata, sliced into ¼ inch-thick coins • 1 pound fresh mozzarella medallions • 1 pound Sicilian green olives (stuffed with garlic) D IRECTIONS 1. Divide a large serving tray, like Gaul, into three sections. 2. Fill each section with soppressata, mozzarella, and olives, forming the Italian flag. 3. Salute and sing Mameli’s Hymn or a rabble-rousing chorus from Verdi. 4. Serve with fresh semolina bread. 21 © 2010 State University of New York Press, Albany 22 ANTIPASTO Increase this recipe’s portions for more formal occasions. It makes a perfect reception dish for either a wedding or funeral. Not that these two events greatly differ. © 2010 State University of New York Press, Albany EXILES FROM COCKAIGNE S WADDLED IN CHEESECLOTH and wrapped in two layers of foil, three Italian sausages, which I hastily had forgotten at my parents’ over Christmas, arrived by UPS at my snowbound bungalow in Syracuse, New York, on the last day of the year.
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