www.bargainbirdingclub.com BIRDING THE MIGRATION ROUTE IN 1st to 8th September 2019 Pamela Goode, Peter Saville, Tim Rea and Richard Hanman Local Guide: Pencho Penchev

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Lake Atanasovsko saltpans, Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Sunday 1st September 2019: Flight from London Gatwick to Burgas, Bulgaria.

Our 5.25pm flight from Gatwick to Burgas was delayed by 1 hour on account of issues with French Air Traffic Control systems which had impacted all flights that flew over French air space.

Nevertheless, once airborne, our 3½ flight with Bulgarian Air was smooth and passed without incident. We touched down just before midnight local time and were met by our guide Pencho Penchev from Penguin Travel. It was only a short transfer to Hotel Lazuren in Burgas where hot showers and air-conditioned rooms were a welcome relief and perfect for a good nights sleep.

Monday 2nd September 2019: Birding the saltpans and lakes around Burgas.

Our alarms went off at 7am and we were surprised to wake up to a seaview from our rooms. The birds were up early too and our trip list was kick started with our first sightings of Barn Swallow, House Martin, Yellow-legged Gull, Magpie, Jackdaw, Cormorant, Ferral Pigeon, Collared Dove, Song Thrush and Common Starling - all from the balcony.

Everyone was keen to start ‘proper’ birding as soon as possible so we had breakfast at 7.30am and were on the road by 8am. With temperatures of 30oC forecast today we stocked up on bottled water and then headed to ‘The Point’ overlooking the salt pans on Lake Atanasovsko. Tree Sparrow, House Sparrow, Chiffchaff and Blue Tit flitted in the bushes. Greenfinch, Red- backed Shrike and White Wagtail perched in a low tree. On the salt pans themselves, and a long way in the distance, we picked out Dalmatian Pelican, White Pelican, Greater Flamingo, Little Egret, Greenshank, Oystercatcher, Lapwing, Avocet, Black-winged Stilt, Grey Heron, Pygmy Cormorant and Marsh Harrier. Overhead, European Bee-eaters and Sand Martins filled the air.

Next stop was a picnic site overlooking the opposite side of the lake. Here we connected with Temminck’s Stint, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Wood Sandpiper, Ruff, Spotted Redshank, Curlew, Spoonbill, Shoveler and Black-headed Gull. In the wooded area we saw our first of many Spotted Flycatcher, plus a fleeting glimpses of Common Redstart, Great Tit, Woodpigeon and Middle Spotted Woodpecker. We also heard a distant call of Great Spotted Woodpecker.

At 11am we moved on to Lake Mandrensko (aka: Lake Mandra), stopping for coffee at a petrol station en-route. Pelicans perched on the pontoons and on the water itself we spotted Garganey, Gadwall, Ferruginous Duck, Red-crested Pochard, Little Grebe and Mute Swan. Common Buzzard and Marsh Harrier caught our attention in the air, albeit we hoped for something more exciting.

Next stop was Poda Lake, viewed from a small track opposite the entrance to the BSPB Bird Centre. A Pygmy Cormorant perched on a stick protruding from the water, Sandwich Tern flew overhead with a beak full of fish, whilst numerous Common Starling chattered noisily in the bushes. The temperature had already reached 30oC so we jumped back in the bus and headed round the roundabout to the Poda Bird Centre for a welcome cold drink and some shade.

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria We paid our £2.50 entrance fee and headed upstairs onto the roof terrace overlooking an area of reed-lined freshwater pools and the saline waters of Burgas Bay. We quickly located Glossy Ibis, Snipe, Yellow Wagtail, Coot, Marsh Sandpiper, Green Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Black-tailed Godwit and Spotted Redshank. As we ate lunch, an Osprey flew over the sea and Spoonbill fed in a far off pool. Water Rail called from the reeds. After lunch we went on a short walk towards the beach and saw hundreds of Coot and Mute Swan and our first Great Crested Grebe. On the way back to the visitors centre we picked up our first Little Gull fluttering like a large butterfly.

The beach itself was quiet with no sign of Collared Pratincole which are known to roost there. We retraced our linear route back to the visitors centre picking up repeat views of Spoonbill, Wood Sandpiper, Spotted Redshank, Dunlin, Ruff and Red-backed Shrike, and our first sightings of Common Tern, Little Tern and Shelduck. We also saw a flock of c.50 White Stork circling high up – the first visible signs of mass migration. Pencho then drew our attention to a gull and declared it to be a Caspian Gull, before our attention was diverted again to a large Admiral-like butterfly, later identified as a Great Banded Grayling.

We arrived back at the Bird Centre around 3.30pm for a cold beer on the roof terrace. Suitably refreshed we then decided to move on and headed to (aka: Vaya Lake). Among the huge numbers of Coot, we had our first sightings of Common Pochard, and our second pair of Ferruginous Duck of the day. A Black Tern was also spotted in the distance.

Last stop of the day was the Salt Museum at . On arrival, lots of human ‘mud-larks’ were covering themselves in thick black mud, deemed to have healing properties. But we’d come to see the birds. On the saltpans we picked out Common Tern, Avocet, Yellow-legged Gull, Black- headed Gull and Mediterranean Gull. On the sandy shoreline of Lake Pomorie itself we found a small group of confiding waders and were able to observe Wood Sandpiper, Ruff, Dunlin, Turnstone, Ringed Plover and Little Ringed Plover at fairly close quarters. On the salt-encrusted posts, Sandwich Tern preened in the late afternoon sunshine, amongst them were dotted the odd Little Tern and Common Tern. As we headed back to the bus a Red-backed Shrike perched on a low bush affording everyone excellent views. We arrived back at our hotel around 6pm giving everyone time to shower and change before heading to a local restaurant for dinner.

At the end of day 1 our trip list stood at 76 species. Burgas might not be the prettiest place in Bulgaria, but as an urban-birding spot it’s definitely worth spending a day exploring it’s lakes.

Pochard & Coot Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Glossy Ibis Snipe Marsh Sandpiper

Turnstone Wood Sandpiper

Dunlin Ruff Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Spotted Redshank Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Ruff

Ringed Plover Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria White Pelican

Common & sandwich Tern

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Mute Swan

Pygmy Cormorant Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Urban Birding in Burgas Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Red-backed Shrike

Pomorie ‘mud-larks’ Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Common Starling Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Yellow Wagtail

White Wagtail Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Tuesday 3rd September 2019: Burgas to Durankulak via and Lake.

We had a long drive ahead of us up the coast to Durankulak today so we’d agreed on an early 6am start and takeaway breakfast prepared by the hotel the night before. We left Burgas on the 906 road, passing through the villages of Laka and Kableshkovo to Poroy Reservoir. En-route we saw 10 European Rollers perched on telegraph wires and large flocks of Tree Sparrow. At the small reservoir, dozens of Common Swift and House Martin swooped overhead. We then continued on the 906 passing through Orizare and Gyulyovtsa where the scenery changed from agricultural fields to the rolling foothills of the whose peaks were enveloped in an eerie early morning mist. The twisty-windy road climbed up to Panitsovo, before crossing the county boundary from Burgas into Varna and descending down to re-join the main E87 coast road at Rudnik. Our guide had chosen this route, partly to avoid the traffic jams often associated with the coast road, but also to give us the opportunity to spot some woodland wildlife.

Our efforts for being bounced around in the minibus on this heavily pot-holed, single-track road came in the form of Jay, Mistle Thrush and Raven, plus fleeting glimpses of European Jackal, Brown Hare and Red Squirrel. The Jackal was no bigger than a Red Fox but it’s coat was dark green-black on top, with lighter underparts. It was gone in at instant so sadly no photo.

We stopped for breakfast around 8am before continuing on through Varna, and before arriving at . En-route we added Hooded Crow to our trip list. At Kavarna we took the 901 road towards and explored the steppe-like area just beyond the wind turbines. Here we had good views of Stone Curlew from the bus, then went on a walkabout across the bird-rich steppe picking up Hoopoe, Red-backed Shrike, Lesser Grey Shrike, Tawny Pipit, and Isabelline Wheatear. We then continued towards the coast where an obliging Pied Wheatear perched on the cliff face, and a mixed group of Cormorant and Shag were resting on fishing posts far below. Overhead Bee-eaters announced their arrival with their characteristic ‘bubbling’ call, joined by large flocks of Barn Swallow feeding on airborne insects. Flowering Yellow Scabious plants proved a magnet for butterflies and day-flying moths including Painted Lady, Small Copper, Safflower Skipper, Eastern Bath White and Hummingbird Hawkmoth. Turtle Dove perched on a wire, Common Wall Lizard sat on a rock and a Bush Cricket landed on my boot!

Next stop was the ruins of Fort Kaliakra. The whole Kaliakra headland around the fort has been deemed a on account of it being a great migration observation hotspot https://bulgariatravel.org/en/object/35/kaliakra#map=6/42.750/25.380. On the day of our arrival, the sun was shining and the sea was calm but there was no sign of storks, falcons, buzzards or eagles passing overhead, or shearwaters out at sea. Migration was evident amongst the smaller birds as we saw Chiffchaff and Lesser Whitethroat perched in small bushes, and 10 juvenile Northern Wheatears and 1 Whinchat amongst the ruins. After much scanning, we also finally connected with a tiny Red-breasted Flycatcher perched in a bush on the cliff face.

We were back in the minibus at 1.30pm and headed for lunch at a local restaurant in Balgerevo. Huge portions of delicious fresh salad, washed down with a large cold beer went down a treat! Our extended lunch meant we weren’t back on the 901 road until 3pm, heading north to Shabla.

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Stone Curlew

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Pied Wheatear

Tawny Pipit

Tawny Pipit Isabelline Wheatear

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Northern Wheatear

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Painted Lady

Small Copper Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Eastern Bath White Hummingbird Hawkmoth

Blue sp.

Safflower Skipper Bush Cricket Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Kaliakra Fort

Kaliakra Headland Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Roller Bee-eater

Spotted Flycatcher Red-breasted Flycatcher Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Mediterranean Shag

Common Wall Lizard Crested Lark Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria We stopped briefly en-route at the cliffs overlooking Elatsite beach near Kamen Bryag, where a short walk delivered Crested Lark. We continued on the 901 passing through until we reached Lake Shabla. Here the water levels were very low so we drove off-road along a rough track to a rickety raised platform overlooking some small pools on the opposite side. The water proved a magnet for birds and one-by-one we picked out Lesser Black-backed Gull, Grey Plover, Golden Plover, Ringed Plover, Little Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Little Stint, Dunlin, Ruff, Redshank, Teal and Moorhen. Overhead, we had flybys of Barn Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow, Bee-eater, Sandwich Tern and Caspian Tern. The highlight here though was watching thousands of Starling come in to roost as the daylight faded. Birds wheeled and turned in unison before descending into a reedbed. Starling murmuration – one of the natural wonders of the world!

As we retraced our route back to the main road we flushed a Pheasant and then caught sight of a small bird flittering at the base of a bush. After a group effort of scanning, spotting and directing others, we all managed to get a branch-obscured view of Common Redstart – our 2nd of the trip.

We continued to Branta Birding Lodge near Durankulak, just 3 miles from the Romanian border. Arriving just before 7pm we were met my our wonderful host and owner Pavel Simeonov, founder of the business ‘Bed & Birding’ https://www.bedandbirding.com/. Sadly Pavel’s wife was ill in hospital at the time of our visit but Pavel and his son duly rustled up an amazing dinner of sausage and chips. After a beer-induced, after-dinner Brexit debate, we finally called it a day at 11pm and retired to our impressive, recently renovated, air conditioned rooms.

We’d added 30 new birds to our trip list on day 2, which had now reached 106 species.

Bargain Birders at Branta ‘Bed & Birding’ Lodge, Durankulak Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Wednesday 4th September 2019: Durankulak back to Burgas.

This morning was overcast and noticeably cooler than previous days, with a strong wind coming from the north … perfect weather for migration! We decided on a pre-breakfast walk along Durankulak Beach hoping for Paddyfield Warbler. As the sun rose it cast a beautiful orange glow over the sea. On the beach White Wagtail and Northern Wheatear were searching for sand flies, whilst hundreds of Barn Swallow and Red-rumped Swallow hunted above the sea and reeds.

As the light improved, groups of Garganey, Mallard and Ferruginous Duck flew above the reedbed, Marsh Harriers were on the wing, and a pair of Squacco Heron appeared briefly before disappearing in the reeds. An Osprey was observed plunging for a fish at sea but came up empty handed. A small group of Sanderling flew low across the beach but didn’t land. A juvenile Common Cuckoo caught us all by surprise as it flew past at high speed and perched in a distant tree before any of us could take a photo. We all had better views of a Purple Heron which glided across the marsh. We scanned for birds in the reedbed and picked up Cetti’s Warbler and Sedge Warbler. We also heard the single, high-pitched note of Penduline Tit. Other birds of note included Red-backed Shrike, Mute Swan and Cormorant. The highlight of our visit to the beach though was a baby Balkan Terrapin which look liked it had just hatched and was making it’s way to the sea. At 8.15am we returned to the lodge for breakfast.

After a group photo and fond farewell to Pavel, we piled back into the minibus at 10am and set off for one last look at the Durankulak Lake. The approach path chosen by our guide was overgrown and uneven under foot making progress difficult. Eventually we reached a small clearing overlooking a small inlet and were rewarded with brief sightings of 3 Jackal, a pair of Kingfisher and an old Penduline Tit nest. As we retraced our route back to the van we saw Purple Heron, Gadwall, Ferruginous Duck and Little Grebe.

After a quick coffee stop we continued on to nearby Ezerets Lake. We parked up and quickly spotted a Sparrowhawk fly low and fast before perching at the top of a tree. Tim quickly got his scope on the bird and called over our guide. “Levant Sparrowhawk” declared Pencho, a ‘lifer’ for everyone and another one of our target birds during the Via Pontica migration in the bag. We continued on hoping for a clear view of the lake but the canal-side track quickly became overgrown. The trees around the canal were full of Spotted Flycatcher. Other birds of note seen here were Great Spotted Woodpecker and 7 Grey Heron spiralling high in the sky, possibly on migration just taking a few minutes for an internal GPS check before continuing on their way.

Our next stop was a drab-looking block of flats opposite a Bultrade petrol station in Kavarna. We soon picked up our target bird – Pallid Swift which nests on the building. We then embarked on a short walk through the adjacent small park and caught our first glimpses on the trip of Blackbird, Chaffinch and Goldfinch, as well as views of Blue Tit, Great Tit, Chiffchaff and our daily dose of Spotted Flycatcher. At 2.30pm we headed for a late lunch at Balchik. An hour later we were on the road again and on our way back to Burgas, ‘delighted’ our guide had chosen the bone-shaker road through the Balkan Mountains! En-route we picked up Corn Bunting and Common Kestrel, and had repeated sightings of Roller and Common Buzzard. We arrived in Burgas around 7pm, and decided to eat before showering and retiring to our rooms. Trip list now 122 after 3 days. Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Sunrise on Durankulak beach

Purple Heron Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Balkan Terrapin

Durankulak marsh Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Red-backed Shrike Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Levant Sparrowhawk

Penduline Tit nest

Great Spotted Woodpecker Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Tim

Pam

Pete

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Thursday 5th September 2019: Burgas to Gorno Pole in the E. Rhodope Mountains:

After a lie in and breakfast, we were back on the road again at 8.15am. A quick return visit to ‘The Point’ overlooking the saltpans near Burgas didn’t reveal any new birds for our trip list. Even the local migration-watchers were surprised how quiet the last few days had been. As Pencho put it, “That’s birding for you, there’s no guarantees, this is not a zoo!” We drove across the E87 bridge to the opposite side of Lake Atanasovsko, and with our backs to the Citroen building we scanned the shore. Viewing here was difficult as we were looking directly into the sun but we did manage to ID Curlew Sandpiper as a new bird for our trip list, plus Kingfisher, Grey Heron, Spotted Redshank, Marsh Harrier, Yellow-legged Gull, Little Gull and Black-headed Gull.

At 9.30am we left behind the built-up area of Burgas and headed inland on road 79. The hustle and bustle of the city soon gave way to long stretches of traffic-free road as we passed through rolling countryside not far from the Turkish and Greek borders. Between the villages of Sredets and Panchevo we had our first views of Lesser Spotted Eagle. Just before the larger village of Elhovo we picked up a distant juvenile Montagu’s Harrier quartering low over a ploughed field, it’s white ring-tail clearly visible. Then in quick succession we saw Short-toed Eagle perched on a distant telegraph pole, Common Buzzard and Common Kestrel – the raptors where up!

We arrived in Elhovo at 12.30am and searched in vain for a shop that did takeaway sandwiches. Reluctantly we ended up having a full sit down lunch at a restaurant which had the slowest service in town. 90 minutes to rustle up 2 Shopska salads, 2 pizzas and a plate of ribs for Peter.

At 3pm we continued on road 76 out of Elhovo and headed towards , enjoying amazing views of Booted Eagle and a pair of Lesser Spotted Eagle. Raven and Bee-eater added to the ambience. From Topolovgrad we took the minor road 559 towards Oreshnik, stopping at a hilltop telecommunications tower and small chapel which afforded excellent 360o panoramic views of the countryside. Here we spotted our first Woodchat Shrike and a distant Imperial Eagle. We were able to make out the pale head and pale tail of the eagle. As we scanned we were surrounded by European Bee-eaters and Red-rumped Swallow, juveniles of the latter had characteristic white-rumps. We also added Swallowtail and Clouded Yellow to our butterfly list.

We continued along the grassy track through Oreshnik to and had good views of Souslik (aka: European Ground Squirrel) which peered back at us from the entrance of their burrows. Continuing on through and Studena we passed the reservoir at Levka which hosted a pair of Black Stork that immediately took to the air the second we stopped the minibus on the bridge. We turned left onto road 55 and continued to Pastrogor where we recharged with a quick coffee stop before driving through the casino border town of Svilengrad, at which point we were only 170 miles from Istanbul!

The 30 miles from Svilengrad to Arda Gorge in the Eastern Rhodope Mountains was via bendy, pot-hole ridden minor roads. When we weren’t gripping our seats hanging on as Pencho maintained motorway speed most of the way, we did manage glimpses of a dark morph Booted Eagle, numerous Common Buzzard and a Grey Wagtail perched in a tree. We eventually arrived at the viewpoint overlooking the River Arda and were happy to stretch our legs on solid ground. Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Common Buzzard

Short-toed Eagle

Rolling hills of southern Bulgaria

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Booted Eagle Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Lesser Spotted Eagle Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Black Stork

Griffon Vulture, Arda Gorge Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Griffon Vulture

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Souslik

Souslik Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Black-eared Wheatear Woodchat Shrike

Sombre Tit

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Wild Farm Lodge, Gorno Pole Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Wild Farm Lodge, Gorno Pole

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Scanning from the stone picnic table with spectacular views up and down the river, we quickly picked up Crag Martin and Griffon Vulture. With the clock ticking, we continued the last few miles to our accommodation. The approach track was alive with birds and we finally convinced Pencho to trickle along in 1st gear. Unsurprisingly this technique of using the car as a hide afforded everyone good close up views of Northern Wheatear, Whinchat, Woodchat Shrike, Yellow Wagtail, Common Buzzard and Raven.

It was 7pm when we pulled up at The Wild Farm ‘Bed & Birding’ lodge at Gorno Pole and there to greet us was a delightful Black-eared Wheatear on the ground and a Sombre Tit in an almond tree. What a way to take our trip list up to 135 species after 4 days. Bargain Birding in Bulgaria!

Friday 6th September 2019: Exploring the Eastern Rhodopi Mountains:

Day 5 and Pete and Tim still had the energy of excited schoolboys to get up and go birding around the village before breakfast. Their efforts were rewarded with sightings of Little Owl, Woodlark, Golden Oriole, Green Woodpecker, Syrian Woodpecker, Ortolan Bunting, Orphean Warbler, Willow Warbler and Booted Eagle. An amazing start! Meanwhile Pam went for a walk around the village and introduced herself to the locals, while I birded from the balcony and filled my boots with Spotted Flycatcher, Pied Wheatear, Northern Wheatear, Black-eared Wheatear, Tree Pipit and Little Owl, but I drew a blank trying to relocate the Sombre Tit, having to make do with Great Tit and Blue Tit. The gang regrouped for breakfast at 8am to share sightings.

At 9m we jumped in the minibus and headed back to the stone picnic table observation point overlooking the Arda Gorge. As yesterday, we quickly saw Griffon Vulture and Crag Martin. With more time today we were able to scan the cliff faces and were rewarded with scope views of a male Blue Rock Thrush, and binocular views of Sparrowhawk, Peregrine, Raven and Alpine Swift. In the bushes we heard Long-Tailed Tit. Booted Eagle and Black Stork flew overhead.

At 11am we quenched our thirst on bottled water before driving to the nearby village of Borislavtsi. The riverbed here was almost dry with just a few pools home to Common Frog and Ruddy Darter Dragonfly. In a small group of trees we heard then saw a Syrian Woodpecker. In the small bushes lining the course of the river we observed Spotted Flycatcher, Chiffchaff and Turtle Dove. A small Field Mouse ran along the roadside drainage channel, and a pair of Crested Lark hunted for insects amongst a huge pile of cow dung.

We stopped for lunch at 1pm at Kartal Restaurant, which also doubles up as a small hotel. Shopska salad all around had become our staple choice. After dinner we had a lovely riverside stroll along the River Arda and saw Egyptian Vulture, Griffon Vulture, Peregrine, Willow Warbler and Cormorant. There was also an abundance of butterflies and moths feeding on Wild Oregano. Analysis of the photos taken revealed Queen of Spain Fritillary, Duke of Burgundy Fritillary, Meadow Brown, Large Wall Brown, Lattice Brown, Clouded Yellow, Lang’s Short-tailed Blue, Silver-studded Blue, Eastern Bath White, Large White butterflies plus Purple-barred Yellow Moth.

The road back to The Wild Farm (in 1st gear) gave repeated views of yesterdays birds plus Skylark. Tim went on a pre-dinner walk around the village and was rewarded with Nuthatch, Common Whitethroat, Blackcap and Barred Warbler, bringing our trip list up to 155 species after 5 days. Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Ruddy Darter

Common Frog Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Chiffchaff Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Willow Warbler Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Black-eared Wheatear

Whinchat Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Woodchat Shrike

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Arda Gorge Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Blue Rock Thrush Peregrine

Black Stork Alpine Swift

Raven

Raven Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Swallowtail Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Queen of Spain Fritillary

Queen of Spain Fritillary Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Large Wall Brown Large White

Lang’s Short-tailed Blue Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Silver-studded Blue Silver-studded Blue

Clouded Yellow

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Eastern Bath White Lattice Brown

Queen of Spain Fritillary Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Queen of Spain Fritillary

Duke of Burgundy Fritillary Purple-barred Yellow Moth Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Saturday 7th September 2019: Gorno Pole to Burgas:

Spurred on by Tim’s success yesterday, most of us opted for a 6.30am pre-breakfast walk led by Pencho. We left the village and walked across the paddocks and through a wooded copse on a rocky hillside. At times the ‘path’ was treacherous under foot with loose rocks and steep drops, leading us to doubt Pencho’s decision making skills. Nevertheless, we followed like sheep (or goats would be more apt) with Pam taking everything in her stride just like an 80-year old landrover! Rewards were thin on the ground (Jay and Magpie) relative to the effort we were putting in. When the path came to an abrupt stop, we back-tracked and finally found a safe route that took us back down towards the village. It was this last leg of our hike that delivered the best birds with fleeting glimpses of Grey-headed Woodpecker and Golden Oriole, as well as good views of Cirl Bunting, Little Owl, Woodlark and Spotted Flycatcher.

After breakfast we packed our bags, checked out and boarded the bus ready to embark on the long journey back to Burgas. The track from The Wild Farm to the main road (dubbed ‘Whinchat Alley’ by the group), delivered its namesake, plus Northern Wheatear, Chiffchaff, Yellow Wagtail, Woodchat Shrike and an Osprey with a fish. One last stop at the stone picnic table overlooking Arda Gorge was rewarded with a high-speed, head-height swoop down the road by a Peregrine, and a Red Squirrel posed nicely for the camera. Notable birds on the first leg to Elhovo included Black Stork, Golden Oriole, Nuthatch, Common Buzzard and Marsh Harrier. Lunch at the same restaurant in Elhovo was a much quicker affair with everyone sticking to Shopska Salad.

On the last leg between Elhovo and Burgas we re-connected with Booted Eagle, Common Buzzard, Marsh Harrier, Raven, Bee-eater and Roller. A quick stop at one of the lakes on the outskirts of Burgas delivered a tiny warbler-like bird, climbing through the undergrowth like a mouse. I managed a very blurry photo and our best guess is Zitting Cisticola. Last stop of the day was the viewing point near the Citroen garage overlooking Lake Atanasovsko. The light was behind us this time which afforded better views of the still distant waders. We were able to pick out Common Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Curlew Sandpiper, Dunlin, Little Stint, Ruff, Spotted Redshank. The highlight though was a Broad-billed Sandpiper standing on its own. Other birds of note here included Yellow Wagtail, Little Egret, Grey Heron, White Pelican, Cormorant, Marsh Harrier Black-headed Gull, Mediterranean Gull and Yellow-legged Gull.

We arrived at our hotel around 5.30pm, giving everyone time to shower and change and walk to the restaurant in time for kick off of the televised England v Bulgaria Euro-qualifier football match. For the record England won 4-0! After 6 days our trip list had reached 159 species.

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Cirl Bunting Osprey

Tree Pipit Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Red Squirrel Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Sunday 8th September 2019: Birding the Burgas lakes then flight back to Gatwick:

Having opted for a takeaway breakfast to maximise our bird time this morning, we checked out of the hotel at 7am and headed back to the Salt Museum at Pomorie, just 15 minutes away. On the beach we re-connected with Starling, Wood Sandpiper, Ringed Plover and Dunlin. The flotilla of thousands of Coot and hundreds of Mute Swan were still on the main Burgas Lake. The saltpans held Black-headed Gull, Mediterranean Gull, Sandwich Tern and White Wagtail. Overhead, Barn Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow and Sand Martin were busy aerial feeding.

Our final site visit of this trip was a return to the Poda Bird Centre and we arrived at 9am just as it opened. We spent our final 3 hours in near perfect conditions, birding from the roof terrace. Here we spotted our first Great White Egret of the trip, plus Dalmatian Pelican, White Pelican, Purple Heron, Grey Heron, Spoonbill, Glossy Ibis, Spotted Redshank, Wood Sandpiper, Kingfisher, Marsh Harrier, Mute Swan, Cormorant, Pygmy Cormorant and Coot.

The best 2 birds of the day were the last 2 birds we saw in Bulgaria. Bird No 1 was a White- winged Black Tern patrolling a distant pool amongst the reedbeds. Bird No 2 was a White-tailed Eagle, again distant, soaring high over a low mountain ridge before circling ever higher before coming to land in a mountain-top tree.

Our flight back to Gatwick departed Burgas at 2.35pm so Pencho dropped us off at the airport and we bid him a fond farewell. We finished with 162 birds on our trip list.

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Spoonbill

Spoonbill Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Common Tern Black-winged Stilt

Mediterranean Gull

Great White Egret White-tailed Eagle

Wood Sandpiper Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria BULGARIA TRIP LIST – 162 BIRDS (2nd – 9th September 2019)

Dalmatian Pelican White Stork Griffon Vulture Woodpigeon European Bee-eater

White Pelican Black Stork Egyptian Vulture Ferral Pigeon European Roller Greater Flamingo Glossy Ibis Lesser Spotted Eagle Collared Dove Spotted Flycatcher Eurasian Spoonbill Stone Curlew Short-toed Eagle Turtle Dove Red-breasted Flycatcher Mute Swan Curlew Booted Eagle Magpie Kingfisher Grey Heron Lapwing Imperial Eagle Jackdaw Common Cuckoo Purple Heron Oystercatcher White-tailed Eagle Hooded Crow Nuthatch Squacco Heron Avocet Osprey Raven Green Woopecker Great White Egret Black-winged Stilt Common Buzzard Jay Great Spotted Woodpecker

Little Egret Redshank Marsh Harrier Hoopoe Mid. Spotted Woodpecker Cormorant Spotted Redshank Montagu’s Harrier Pheasant Syrian Woodpecker Pygmy Cormorant Greenshank Levant Sparrowhawk House Sparrow Grey-headed Woodpecker Shag Snipe Sparrowhawk Tree Sparrow Lesser Whitethroat L. Black-backed Gull Green Sandpiper Common Kestrel Corn Bunting Common Whitethroat Black-headed Gull Marsh Sandpiper Peregrine Falcon Cirl Bunting Chiffchaff Mediterranean Gull Wood Sandpiper Little Owl Ortolan Bunting Blackcap

Little Gull Curlew Sandpiper Common Swift Greenfinch Willow Warbler Yellow-legged Gull Broad-billed Sandpiper Pallid Swift Chaffinch Sedge Warbler Caspian Gull Turnstone Alpine Swift Goldfinch Cetti’s Warbler Little Tern Little Ringed Plover Barn Swallow Common Redstart Orphean Warbler Common Tern Ringed Plover Red-rumped Swallow Blackbird Barred Warbler Sandwich Tern Kentish Plover House Martin Song Thrush Zitting Cisticola Black Tern Grey Plover Sand Martin Mistle Thrush Blue Tit W-wing. Black Tern Golden Plover Crag Martin Blue Rock Thrush Great Tit

Caspian Tern Dunlin Red-backed Shrike Golden Oriole Penduline Tit (H) Mallard Little Stint Lesser Grey Shrike Crested Lark Sombre Tit Teal Temminck’s Stint Woodchat Shrike Woodlark Long-tailed Tit (H) Gadwall Sanderling Whinchat Skylark White Wagtail Pochard Ruff Northern Wheatear Tree Pipit Yellow Wagtail Red Crested Pochard Black-tailed Godwit Pied Wheatear Tawny Pipit Grey Wagtail Garganey Little Grebe Isabelline Wheatear Starling

Ferruginous Duck Great Crested Grebe Black-eared Wheatear

Shelduck Coot

Shoveler Moorhen Water Rail

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria BUTTERFLIES, MOTHS & NOTABLE INSECTS

Great Banded Grayling Small Copper Painted Lady Eastern Bath White

Safflower Skipper Meadow Brown Silver-studded Blue Lang’s Short-tailed Blue

Swallowtail Large Wall Brown Large White Clouded Yellow

Queen of Spain Fritillary Duke of Burgundy Fritillary Lattice Brown Bush Cricket

Hummingbird Hawkmoth Purple-barred Yellow Moth Southern Skimmer Ruddy Darter MAMMALS & OTHER NOTABLE ANIMALS

Jackal Brown Hare Red Squirrel Souslik (Ground Squirrel)

Field Mouse Balkan Terrapin Common Frog Common Wall Lizard NOTABLE FLOWERING PLANTS

Chicory Fennel Wild Oregano Giant Yellow Scabious

This trip report remains the property of ‘Bargain Birding Club’ and cannot be published or reproduced without prior permission.

All photographs were taken on this trip.

Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria Bargain Birding the Via Pontica in Bulgaria