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1 The Best of

Vietnam offers adventures and curiosities around every corner. Be ready for a wild ride in a colorful and chaotic land—along the way, you’ll discover tranquil places and opportunities to connect with local people. Below is the best Vietnam has to offer, from fine dining to off-the-beaten-track oddities.

1 The Best Vietnam Experiences • Eat on the Street: “Real” Vietnamese minorities. Ethnic hilltribe people food is best at street side or in small still practice their own brands of ani- market areas, and, though it might be mistic religion and wear colorful tra- a little grungy or off-putting to some, ditional clothing. Travelers among dining alfresco in old Indochina them, in places like Sapa and Bac Ha offers the most authentic and deli- in the far north or near Buon Ma cious meals. Prepare yourself for Thuot or Kontum in the Central some adventurous dining. If you’re in Highlands, can even experience a City, try Ngon Restau- “homestay” in some villages through rant (p. 339) for a safe overview of certain ecotours and trekking compa- Vietnamese fare. See “Where to nies. See chapters 5 and 9. Dine” sections in following chapters. • See the Water Puppets of : • Get Lost in the Markets: In Viet- Okay, this is one for the tour buses, nam the market—spelled Cho and but the Thang Long Water Puppet pronounced like the beginning of the Theater (p. 138) in Hanoi is magical. word “could”—is the epicenter of Intricate puppets emerge from the culture and commerce. The best mar- surface of a small watery stage as if by ket for tourists is Ben Thanh Market magic, telling tales of old Vietnam. (p. 343) in Saigon, which caters to Don’t miss it. foreign visitors with low-cost T-shirts, • Take a Wild Ride: Whether through souvenirs, and local treats. Every Hanoi’s narrow alleyways and maze- town has a market: Dalat’s market, like neighborhoods or on the broad with its delicious strawberry pre- boulevards of busy Ho Chi Minh, the serves; HoiCOPYRIGHTED An’s busy riverside fish traffic MATERIAL in Vietnam is a trip. Darwin- market and wholesale silk market; ian road rules mean that any ride by Hanoi’s sprawling Dong Xuan Mar- motorcycle, car, or bus is a test of ket (p. 137); and the hilltribe markets faith, as drivers swerve and angle of Sapa and Bac Ha in the far north. through some of the world’s craziest • Visit Hilltribe Groups: Vietnam’s traffic. In Vietnam, “getting there” is remote mountain regions, the Cen- an adventure in itself. See “Getting tral Highlands and the far north, There” sections in the following are home to a patchwork of ethnic chapters for more information. 05_194072 ch01.qxp 12/14/07 10:57 PM Page 5

THE BEST TEMPLES & ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES 5 • Celebrate the Tet Holiday: This year, the greatest gift you could get is Lunar New Year celebration (p. 17) an invite to a family’s Tet celebration. in early February is the most impor- Bring a little something to eat as a tant event on the calendar. Should contribution, and enjoy some of the you be in Vietnam at this time of most unique hospitality in the world.

2 The Best Sites (According to UNESCO) • Halong Bay: Just a short few hours designer wares. Many shops are still from Hanoi, the bay at Halong, with operational wood, stone, and ceramic its craggy limestone towers dotting workshops, but now among them are the wide open bay all the way to the fine-dining outlets, funky little hotels horizon, has long inspired Viet- (as well as new resorts on the outlying namese poets and philosophers. A beach area of Cua Dai), and lots of ride on the bay these days is a rather bespoke tailors. Shoppers swoon. See busy, crowded affair, but some luxury chapter 8. tours and a few ecotour operators can • My Son Sanctuary: The Cham peo- take you to the back of beyond, ple, an Indonesian group who arrived exploring little-known caves by by ship from the Malay Peninsula, kayak. See chapter 4. held sway over most of central Viet- • Phong Nha/Ke Bang National Park: nam and built arching hilltop towers. These massive caves (more or less an My Son is the finest example. See off-the-track site popular with back- chapter 8. packers) are about halfway between • Hue Monuments: The Nguyen Hue and Vinh. You have to arrange Kings—the last and perhaps the your own transport or go with a tour. most glorious (or grandiose) of Viet- See chapter 7. nam’s dynastic rulers—built grand • Hoi An: Tourism has exploded on the monuments to themselves in and ancient streets of Hoi An. A hub of around the massive Hue Citadel. Hue’s international craft and commerce sights, particularly the elaborate kings’ since the 14th century, this is where tombs, make for a very interesting visit. Vietnamese, Chinese, and even Japan- See chapter 8. ese tradesmen made and sold their

3 The Best Temples & Archaeological Sites • The Cao Dai Holy See: The spirit- • The Tunnels of Vinh Moc and Cu ual home base of the Cao Dai reli- Chi: Faced with devastating air raids, gion, a unique contemporary faith, both of these sites supported large the Holy See (p. 227) is a fantasyland groups of soldiers and civilians who of colored mosaics and elaborate used the tunnels as supply lines, painting. Followers are dressed in escape routes, and as bases for waging white turbans during the picturesque a devastating guerilla campaign daily procession. against U.S. forces. Day trips to • Tomb of Khai Dinh: The egotistical, either site are memorable. See p. 219 eccentric emperor Khai Dinh left and p. 350. behind a tomb that is a gaudy mix of • Hoa Lo Prison (aka Hanoi Hilton): Gothic, baroque, and classical Chi- Home to U.S. pilots—including nese architecture. Quite unique. See John McCain—who were shot down p. 214. 05_194072 ch01.qxp 12/14/07 10:57 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VIETNAM during the Vietnamese war with the • Reunification Palace: In 1975 tanks U.S., Hoa Lo Prison (p. 124) is now rolled over the gates of the prime a small museum (most of it was minister’s palace, signaling an end to demolished for a high-rise). A good the Vietnam War. You can see the glimpse into Vietnam’s grisly past. actual tanks on-site. See p. 344.

4 The Best Museums • War Remnants Museum: Formerly Hindu-inspired carvings are captivat- called the Museum of American War ing. See p. 228. Crimes, this ever-evolving collection • Vietnam National Museum of Fine is the face of Vietnam’s war past. Arts: This large colonial structure Exhibits are insightful and certainly houses a fine collection of new works, rife with rhetoric, but a unique historical lacquer and silk paintings, glimpse at propaganda from “the woodblocks, and folk and expressive other side,” and a yin to the heavy works in oil. See p. 123. yang of Western reporting and docu- • Ho Chi Minh Museum (in Hanoi): mentation of the war years. A unique Like the War Remnants Museum, the perspective and a must-see in Ho Chi Ho Chi Minh Museum is a battle- Minh City. See p. 347. ground of ideology. Located adjacent • The Cham Museum: This open-air to his very tomb, the museum tells colonial structure houses the largest the tale of the revolutionary from cra- collection of Cham sculpture in dle to grave. See p. 122. the world. Many of the 300-plus

5 The Best Beaches • Nha Trang: Vietnam’s Ocean City is by Nick Faldo, the seafood is good, very crowded in the summertime and there are some great day trips to with domestic tourists, but it’s a great remote sand dunes and smaller fish- escape. The city has a few worthy ing villages. See p. 304. sights—otherwise a cluttered market • Phu Quoc Island: Phu Quoc boasts town—but there are some great new vast tracts of interior forestland and resorts and the best seafood going. far-flung beaches great for exploring See p. 286. by motorbike. For now there’s just a • Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet: Just a small clutch of mid- to low-end few hours from Saigon, Phan Thiet is resorts, but the times they are a- the latest getaway for Saigon resi- changin’ and development is on the dents. There’s a golf course designed way. Get here fast. See p. 382.

6 The Best of the Outdoors • Kayaking in Halong Bay: Often in of feet overhead and crawl with conjunction with luxury cruises, monkeys, snakes, and rare animals. kayaking in Halong Bay means going Kayaks are the only way to get up through low caves at low tide to get close. See chapter 4. to the collapsed center of huge lime- • Multisports in the Central High- stone and volcanic rings, where walls lands: Opportunities abound for of jungle vegetation tower hundreds trekking, climbing, and mountain 05_194072 ch01.qxp 12/14/07 10:57 PM Page 7

THE BEST LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS 7 biking. Just contact one of the many experience itself is amazing. There are small outfitters in Dalat (all are a lots of outfitters in the popular copy of Phat Tire, a Vietnam pio- tourist town of Sapa, and you can neer). See chapter 9. arrange any number of treks to ethnic • Cycling the Mekong Delta: The hilltribe villages, even overnights and best part about cycling in Vietnam is homestays. See chapter 5. that, with some exceptions, the • Sail or Kite-Surf on the South routes are quite flat. Adventure-tour China Sea: Opportunities for water- outfitters out of both Ho Chi Minh sports and sailing are many as you City (p. 317) and Hanoi (p. 80) can travel along Vietnam’s coast. Most make any arrangements for a tour of resorts have boats for rent, and Nha any length, even providing a support Trang is a good bet, as is the area off van, and going by bike gives you a Mui Ne Beach near Phan Thiet, close-up view of it all. See chapter 12. which is becoming a very popular • The Central Highlands or the Far wind- and kite-surfing spot. See North by Motorbike: The rural roads chapter 10. of Vietnam beg to be explored, and • Cuc Phuong National Park: A great going by motorbike, though danger- little overnight from Hanoi for ous, is a great way to do it. From Dalat nature lovers, Cuc Phuong (p. 192) in the Central Highlands, arrange a hosts a unique primate-research cen- ride with an Easy Rider (p. 254), ter, has good basic accommodations, motorcycle guides who can take you and offers lots of hiking trails. Good up the Ho Chi Minh Trail (now a guides are on hand to assist or hire for highway) and as far as Danang and the day. Hoi An. In the far north, the Russian • Cat Tien National Park: Bird- Minsk motorbike is the workhorse of watcher heaven, little Cat Tien is the hills, and you can rent your own halfway between Saigon and Dalat bike or go with a guide out of Hanoi and an overnight stay includes night and visit some incredible terrain. See spotting, rustic accommodations, chapter 9. and a morning hike. The place is • Taking On Fansipan or Trekking crawling with jungle animals, birds, the Far North: The very top of Viet- and lots of naturalists and ornitholo- nam, Mount Fansipan (p. 148) is a gists chasing after them with binocu- multiday adventure and only for the lars. See p. 369. hearty, but the views afforded and the

7 The Best Luxury Accommodations • Caravelle (& 08/823-4999; www. sophisticated and modern, and the caravellehotel.com): The best location décor is luxurious without being and the best standard right at the vor- chintzy. They also have some of the tex of Ho Chi Minh, on Dong Khoi at best dining options in Saigon. See Lam Son Square. The town’s top busi- p. 325 ness address. See p. 320. • Sheraton Saigon (& 08/827-2828; • Park Hyatt Saigon (& 08/824- www.sheraton.com/saigon): Come 1234; www.saigon.park.hyatt.com): here for glitzy surroundings and big This new luxury hotel has a prime conferences. It’s a popular place for downtown location overlooking the business travelers. See p. 326. Saigon Opera House. The interior is 05_194072 ch01.qxp 12/14/07 10:57 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VIETNAM • Sofitel Dalat Palace (& 063/825- hotel is the most luxurious, over-the- 444; www.accorhotels.com/asia): top destination in Vietnam. A premier There’s nothing like it anywhere spa, three outdoor infinity pools, and really, this converted palace of the last private pool villas highlight a list that emperor of Vietnam, Bao Dai. Giant goes on and on. See p. 231. rooms are done in a cool retro-style • Evason Ana Mandara Villas (& 063/ with fireplaces and diva beds, claw- 555-888; www.sixsenses.com): This foot tubs, and great original artworks. is the most charming hotel in Viet- Great fine dining and a high standard nam, with 17 lovingly restored French of service are offered. One of those colonial villas nestled upon a hill in special finds in the world. See p. 258. the Central Highlands. • Hilton (& 04/ • Evason Hideaway Resort (& 058/ 933-0500; www.hilton.com): This 728-222; www.sixsenses.com): This hotel has the edge on location and is the Ana Mandara done to perfec- the level of service is absolutely top tion but set on a far-flung beach with notch. See p. 90. the country’s most high-end pool vil- • Sofitel Metropole Hanoi (& 04/ las. See p. 290. 826-6919; www.sofitel.com): The • Furama Resort (& 0511/847-333; best hotel in Vietnam for luxury, serv- www.furamavietnam.com): One of the ice, style, and a connection to the his- most “kid-friendly” resorts in Vietnam, tory of Hanoi. See p. 94. this place has lots of outdoor activities • The Nam Hai (& 0510/940-000; and watersports, as well as luxury spa www.ghmhotels.com): This brand new facilities. See p. 225.

8 The Best Midrange Accommodations • Victoria Sapa (& 020/871-522): In for renovated budget minihotels, the the hills above Sapa, this one’s the “boutique mini.” And the location best in town. Arrive by the hotel’s is great, right on Church Street. See luxury train, and enjoy a ski-lodge p. 96. kind of ease and hospitality. See • Bong Sen Hotel Annex (& 08/ p. 152. 823-5818): Basic, affordable, and in • Victoria Chau Doc and Can Tho: the heart of downtown, a good bet in These two riverside classics are worth Saigon. See p. 331. the trip. Chau Doc is a renovated old • Coco Beach Resort (& 62/847- administration building, and Can 111): The first, and still the best, on Tho is a new but retrofitted grande the long stretch of white-sand Mui dame. Take great day trips and enjoy Ne Beach. Rustic but comfortable slow, riverside living. See p. 381 and wooden bungalows on stilts overlook p. 378. the sea from a peaceful garden area. • Zephyr Hotel (& 04/934-1256): A Great dining, too. See p. 307. very cozy new hotel in the center of • Life Resort Hoi An and Quy Nhon: Hanoi, just south of Hoan Kiem, Whether at the more isolated beach- with a compact set-up but a high side resort in Quy Nhon or at standard. An affordable boutique the fine, in-town resort in Hoi downtown hotel. See p. 95. An (the very closest resort to town), • Church Hotel (& 04/928-8118): Life Resort is a fine new standard. See On the low end of this category, the p. 232 and p. 282. new Church Hotel sets a new standard 05_194072 ch01.qxp 12/14/07 10:57 PM Page 9

THE BEST SHOPPING 9

9 The Best Dining • Vine (& 04/719-8001): This chic • Mango Rooms (& 0510/910-839): little bistro north of central Hanoi The atmosphere is fast and furious as (on ) is a find. The atmos- hip young owner Duc slings a unique phere is hip San Francisco–style, and brand of Asian-fusion fare, heavy on the food is a cunning assortment of grilled items and delicious light the familiar, from good pizzas to great ingredients. See p. 240. fusion. See p. 104. • Le Rabelais (& 063/825-444): Fine • Restaurant Bobby Chinn (& 04/ French cuisine served with real 934-8577): Atmosphere and loca- panache at one of Vietnam’s most tion—like a performance-art space luxurious rural hotels. See p. 261. on the south end of central Hoan • Ngon Restaurant (& 08/829- Kiem Lake—Bobby’s is the place to 9449): Its popularity has spawned a see and be seen in Hanoi. See p. 108. number of small offshoots, including • Cha Ca La Vong (& 04/825-3929): a specialty restaurant focused on A Vietnamese institution and a northern rice dishes and another new tourist right of passage, really. A meal outlet for buffet dinners, but the here is a memorable, do-it-yourself original restaurant near the Reunifi- affair on the beat-up second floor of a cation Palace is the best. A virtual sur- restaurant as old as the hills (and it vey course of authentic Vietnamese looks like it has never been painted). cuisine from every region of the The food does all the talking: a country, this restaurant is the town’s unique dish of white fish flash-fried most atmospheric, friendly, and busy. in lots of peanut oil with dill and See p. 339. turmeric. See p. 102.

10 The Best Shopping • Ben Thanh Market: Ben Thanh • Dong Khoi Street: Once the cultural (p. 343) is a city landmark and a great heart of colonial Cochin China, and place to pick up cheap, ready-made later the busy R&R street of war- clothing, souvenirs, and an authentic weary U.S. troops, Dong Khoi is still Vietnamese lunch. the cultural pulse of urban Vietnam • Hoi An: This is Vietnam’s shopping but now pays homage to style. Trendy mecca. Get clothes made to order for boutiques, chic cafes, and fine dining peanuts—some travelers even bring line the busy road. See p. 313. their own patterns—or browse gal- • Hoan Kiem Area: Throw a rock and leries and chic little boutiques. The chances are you’ll hit a gallery or shop town is an ancient mercantile center, in the busy city center of Hanoi. and community collectives still prac- Shopping is chockablock and prices tice wood and stone carving. See are as good as you can haggle them p. 247. down to. See p. 83.