Crete

Spili & The White Mountains

A Greentours Tour Report

7th – 21st April 2011

Led by Terry Underhill

Day 1 Thursday 7th April to Spili

We all met up as a group at Athens. At 22.00 hrs we landed at Heraklion, and were reunited with our luggage. It was an uneventful journey and at the magic time of midnight we reached Spili. We all received a wonderful welcome from Heracles and Christine and within a few minutes were allocated our rooms. A bottle of water and a few tasty cakes awaited us in our rooms. I doubt if anyone attempted to listen for Scop’s Owls.

Day 2 Friday 8th April Gious Kambos

At 7.30am Terry was striding through sleepy Spili to the bread shop for the picnic. An Australian Beaufortia, something similar to a Bottle brush shrub, was in full flower by the nearby Green Hotel, giving a hint that the season was not too late, as indicated by the UK media. Osteospermum, Argyranthemum, Pelargoniums, Zantedeschia aethiopica, plus pear and almond were also in bloom. When it came to wild flowers, or what some might call weeds, there were Groundsel, Shepherd’s Purse, Smooth Sowthistle, Annual Mercury, Hedge Mustard, Parietaria, Bermuda Buttercup and the thistle-like Galactites tomentosa all flowering well.

8.30 am and the group were realising why Heracles’s breakfast are so well known for quantity and quality. Hard-boiled eggs, yoghurt and honey, four types of home-made jam (fig, mixed fruits, marmalade and honey), washed down with freshly squeezed orange juice and tasty coffee.

A brief stop at the supermarket to pick up boxes or purchased goods was made before the steady climb up above Spili - to the plateau - Gious Kambos. There was not a breath of wind or a cloud to be seen in the sky, and clear views far into the distance were possible. To the west there was a lot of snow on the White Mountains made a striking scene. The roadside garigue contained Phlomis fruticosa, Salvia triloba along with Euphorbia characias and yellow spikes of Ashodeline luteus.

A Northern Wheatear posed for us as we made our first stop. Clambering on a gentle south-

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facing slope we were aware that in recent days there had been a lot of rain as the ground was very wet and muddy in places. A few small white crocus-like Romulea bulbocodium were open wide, but it was the vast amount of Anemone hortensis ssp. heldreichii which caught the eye. Periodically we found bright red, pink or blue-purple Anemone coronaria. Our first orchid was a single Anacamptis fragrans, then masses of Neotinea lactea. Anacamptis boryi was quickly followed by Orchis italica. Alongside the road where we had parked there was a mixture of Smyrnium olusatrum and rotundifolium.

The ‘famous’ Spili mound area was next on our agenda. The land on the left, just past the ‘closed’ taverna (I ask myself was it ever open?) was soon being scutinised. Masses of cream/white and lemon-yellow Orchis pauciflora were everywhere, especially around rocky outcrops. Among the mass of spiny low bushes of Sarcopterium spinosum were numerous Ophrys heldreichii - our first Ophrys. Their limited number indicating that Spring was still young. A lovely Man Orchid Aceras anthropophorum now classified as Orchis was next on our list followed by Barlia robertiana which also has a name change to Himantoglossum. An extra wet spot hosted Anacamptis laxiflora.

Regularly the bird watchers were tantalized by a soaring buzzard imitating an eagle. Here were our first Tulipa doefleri although others were noted in fields now much greener than in previous years.

It was about an hour later that we crossed the fallen tree trunk bridge to the actual Spili mound, always aware that many of the world’s botanists have also done so. A brief look for Hermodactylis tuberosus only revealed the long hanging pod, the flowers obviously fading away some weeks earlier. The orchis haul included Anacamptis boryi which was flowering in profusion, a few Anacamptis papilioniacea ssp alibertis, Ophrys bombyliflora, Ophrys cretica ssp. ariadnae and various Ophrys fusca agg - such as creberrima, and creticola, Ophrys heldreichii, Ophrys sicula with the lip not folded at the base and Ophrys phryganae, looking very much the same except that the lip curls at the edges and the yellow margin is wider, Orchis italica, Orchis pauciflora, the delicate Orchis quadripunctata and a few Ophrys iricolor and Ophrys sphegodes ssp. cretensis.

Sadly the usual drift of Tulipa saxatilis was too far faded to be worthy of a photograph. A few Friar’s Cowls, Arisarum vulgare, and Parentucellia latifolia were added to our list along with the foliage of Parentucellia viscosa which flourished at the foot of the mound. Open areas of previously bare soil were massed with the diminutive Bellis annua.

It was 1.45 and lunch beckoned so a quick drive was made to the chapel and the boxes of food and drink were carried up the stairway to the bench under a large Platanus orientalis by the holy well. The tree was just breaking into growth. Soon the table cloth was almost hidden by the wealth of food. It was nearly an hour later that we made a little walk around the chapel before taking the food, plates and cutlery back to the mini bus. In the watery trackside the trailing Lythrum juncea flourished and in the wet area by the side of the steps Oenanthe pimpinelloides flowered. On the rocks near the plane tree we found Rustyback Fern and clumps of Ranunculus creticus. A single Onosma graeca was noted. The track up from the holy well has recently been sprinkled with nitrogen fertiliser and the grass growth was lush, but still allowed the larger form of Lesser Celandine, Ranunculus ficaria ssp. ficariformis to reach the sun. Big grey felted leaves of Verbascum macurum and wavy leaves of Verbascum sunuatus were seen. We had been

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teased by fast flying yellow butterflies believed to be Cleopatras, but Hazel reported Small Copper, which we were to see a number of during the following hour plus a Swallowtail. We scrambled between a steep bank and one of those wretched wire fences finding the Fritllaria messanensis was still in bud, although likely to be open in a weeks time. Richard found Ophrys omegaifera and then some Hermodactylis in bloom. We pushed our way through dense Spartium junceum, not in bloom, aiming for a sheltered area, hoping for Cyclamen creticum and fritillary flowers open , but we were out of luck. There were bushes of pink Daphne sericea and another population of alibertis form of Anacamptis papilionacea.

A 10 minute stop by another trackside bank turned into 30 minutes as we found good forms of the fusca agg and fine specimens of Ophrys sphegodes ssp. cretensis. Driving a little further around the plateau and distant patch of pink caught Terry’s eye and out we all got from the comfort of the Mercedes Vito and walked up the hillside, passing small patches of Ophrys bombyliflora until we reach a fine drift of Tulipa saxatilis, perfect for photographing in the low but bright evening sunlight. We drove slowly down the gorge in the far corner, hoping that we might see Griffon Vultures but as we had not seen any other raptors that day other than that circling buzzard it was a very distant hope. We did find clumps of yellow-flowered Linum arboreum. On the rock face Verbascum arcturus flowers were still tight in bud. The final stretch down produced some crows included hooded harassing a Raven, and a pair of Goldfinches. It was only 4km drive along the main road to Heracles, leaving time for a beer, shower, making notes, and relax before walking a matter of a few meters to Maria and Kostas for evening meal. After indulging as well as we did, it was quite an effort to get up from the table and walk back to Heracles and bed.

During the very sunny and warm day we had seen many small brown lizards and Terry had disturbed a 30cm or more long bright green Balkan Green Lizard.

Day 3 Saturday 9th April Triopetra

The local Supermarket’s oranges were so delicious that a stop was needed at the start of the day’s trip to buy more. In superb warm sun we quickly reached Akoumia having travelled eastward along the main road noting drifts of Anchusa italica, Gladiolus italicus and Chrysanthemum coronarium ssp. bicolor, as well as numerous almond and pear trees full of blossom, and young foliage bursting from numerous trees, especially figs. A few young Cercis siliquastrum were covered in purple-pink flowers.

We carefully negotiated the narrow roads, working our way uphill between parked cars. Out of the village the road had been widened, as part of a major scheme to improve access to Triopetra beach. Much of the roadside banks on our right had been bulldozed away often leaving masses of bare soil, which was just being colonised by various annuals. A dominant plant on the left was the tall fennel, Ferula communis. At about the first place where it was possible to scramble up the bank to the heavily planted terraces we stopped. Almost immediately the birders were watching a smart-looking male Sardinian Warbler, Great Tit, soon to be followed by Rueppell’s Warbler. The plant lovers were also quickly into orchids with Anacamptis collina and Serapias bergonii. As we climbed onto a terrace we found numerous Serapias parviflora. Large bluish flowers of Erodium gruinum were scattered among the carpets of members of Fabaceae, which included Trifolium repens and the strawberry clover, Trifolium fragiferum. We noted the smelly

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foliage of Anagyris foetida and Ruta chalepensis, a rue, topped with yellow flowers. Tordylium apulum was still producing little umbels of small white flowers, whereas Scandix pecten-veneris was producing the long narrow pods, which gave its colloquial name - Shepherd’s Needle. The majority of butterflies were busy flying fast from A-B, some were Small Whites and a Wall Brown did hang around long enough to be identified.

A short distance further on we watched a Griffon Vulture glide around a corner ahead and disappear. Rounding the bend we saw it perched on a rock. We took numerous photographs of it, moving ever closer, but it kept preening itself in-between looking down at us. One of us must have looked like a tasty meal. We slowly drove down to the coast, not stopping to photograph views as the distant views were hazy. We parked on the beach, worked out what to leave in the mini-bus and what to take with us for the next couple of hours. Mike and Hazel quickly had their scope trained on a solitary Ringed Plover, which was some distance along the beach where the stream flowed down to the sea. The rest of us used stepping stones to cross the stream, before botanising along the beach. Pink Silene colorata, Medicago marina, Muscari spreitzenhoferi, Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum, Sea daffodil and Centaurea rhaphanifoli grew in the sand, the result of the disintegration of exceptionally well-mixed conglomerate rock. A dominant shrub at the back of the beach was Pistacia lentiscus, through which grew Convolvulus oleifolius with delightful pink/purple flowers. Clambering up the layered sheets of sloping rock we found an area of Erica manipuliflora with a few clusters of pink flowers, Prasium majus and Phagnalon graeca. Scorzonera cretica, Asteriscus spinosus and Limonium graecum found cracks in the rocky surface. A Wall Brown flitted past, while Swifts were circling the rocky headland at the end of the beach. All the time we were serenaded by the surf from the ultramarine blue sea.

We were well aware of a wide range of plantains. A little corner had a lovely mixture of plants including Valantia, Atractylis cancellata with its bracts clustered to look like a sea urchin, and Silene colorata. Our route to the top of the headland did not produce any hoped for orchids. The top of the headland had been ripped apart for grazing grass, but Calendula arvensis and many more Plantago sp and Mandragora autumnalis were in abundance. The yellow gromwell Neostemma apulum made a nice display with its small yellow flowers. John noted a silver-grey dome of Glaucium flavum. Silybum marianum and Galactites tomentosa joined many other thistles in the marginal wasteland.

Terry asked the owner of a beach taverna, who was preparing for opening next week, if we could have our picnic on his terrace? He not only agreed but provided 7 chairs, cleaned a small table and offered cut price bottles of beer. After our picnic we made our way up a gully made by rain water run off through a clay-like compact soil/rock. There were numerous Serapias bergonii and parviflora, drifts of white Ranunculus asiaticus, plus a few delicate pink ones. Cistus parviflorus and white Cistus salvifolius were bursting into bloom. Michael tried the taste of a Carob bean and was not impressed. While parts of this area had been heavily scarified and sown with coarse grass we still found various goodies, such as Ornithogalum narbonense and Ornithogalum divergens and the diminutive blue Solenopsis minuta.

To one side in a narrow valley/gully a stream talked to itself, while being heavily overgrown with various trees, plus Pistacia, Phlomis, Arundo donax and scrambling Vitis vinifera and Smilax aspera.

On leaving the area a pair of Black-eared Wheatear were watched. By a gap in the wired fence

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was Papaver rhoeas and hybrida. We drove directly to Akoumia taking the lower road out of the village - a type of one-way system. Richard having seen some pink orchids while we drove down, asked Terry to repeat the circular route through Akoumia. We watched another Griffon Vulture and had a fleeting glimpse or a red throated bird, which flew away before full identification could be made. An hour was spent browsing the area finding Orchis quadripunctata, Ophrys fusca, and various forms/species of it such as cressa which was found by John. We also recorded Ophrys omegaifera, Ophrys tenthredinifera, Ophrys sphegodes ssp. cretensis and Ophrys cretica ssp. ariadnae. We had about an hour back at Heracles before 45 min of lists, which was followed at 7pm a scrumptious meal at Maria and Kostas. Being well and truly fed and watered (alcoholic) plus pleasant conversation took over 2.5 hours. It was then about bed time, a chance to dream about the day, most of which was perfumed by the yellow-flowered Calicotome villosa. I wonder if all the pollen beetles we saw today, go to bed within a flower, or gaze up at the stars from an open flower?

Day 4 Sunday 10th April Kourtaliotis Gorge and Psiloritis

The superb quality of Heracles’s breakfast are well known, and a young couple, concentrating their Cretan holiday on bird watching, were treating themselves to one of his breakfasts. While socialising they mentioned having watched a couple of Lammergeiers during a visit to Kourtaliotis Gorge the previous day. Terry therefore decided, as the morning was warming up fast and there was virtually no wind, to make a short visit there at the start of the day’s trip to ‘Idian’ Zeus’s cave on the side of Psiloritis. As we approached the gorge five Griffon Vultures were circling. As they disappeared over the ridge one or two appeared (were they new or some of the earlier group?). A lone raptor sweeping along the rock face was probably a Golden Eagle. We watched Red-billed Choughs and Rock Doves, until just before 10am, our planned time of departure, two Lammergeiers flew overhead, their wing shape, colour pattern and long tail being very obvious and diagnostic.

We then drove non-stop to the main North road by Rethymon and along it westwards until we were able to join the Old North Road signposted to Iraklion. After travelling through a number of small villages, and Parama we reached a bend in the road, not far from the turn off to Omala, where we made a ‘comfort’ and botanising spot. Tethered goats on the opposite side of the road were having a diet of Borage and Marjoram. We noted plain golden yellow Chrysanthemum coronarium and its white and yellow var bicolor. On a grassy bank was our first Cyclamen creticum and bushes of Hypericum empetrifolia. A trackside edge had fruiting Tordylium apulum and Scandix pectin-veneris. The orchid ‘buffs’ found a pathetic looking Orchis italica and numerous Serapias parviflora and bergonii. There were numerous Fabaceae such as fruiting Trifolium repens, Trifolium resputinatum, Trifolium stellatum , Lotus edulis, and Allium nigrum.

Our route took us towards Psiloritis. Terry prepared and laid out the picnic while the others photographed the many thousands of Romulea bulbocodium, and tried to photograph the huge bees and beetles visiting the Romuleas. Almost every Berberis cretica protected numerous blue Scilla nana and an occasional white form albescens, Corydalis uniflora, and the foliage of Arum idaem. Gagea chrysantha, Lithospermum incrassatum, and diminutive Myosotis incrassatum found protection between rocks. After photographing the nearby shepherd’s stone hut, we moved off towards the car park by the sad-looking taverna just below the Idiaon Cave. We passed by a

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number of snowdrifts before reaching our destination. A drive up the road/track was aborted on the sight of the amount of surface washed away. Everything looked horribly dead or still in winter slumber, although we did find more Corydalis, Lithospermum, Myosotis and Scilla. It was known from previous visits that the Arum foliage were that of Arum creticum and Arum ideaum. Large drifts of Scilla nana made all the travelling effort worthwhile. We scrambled up to the cave, reaching the paved area and kiosk, where Terry produced cartons of orange juice for everyone. In the vicinity of the cave two ladies were gathering Taraxacum bithynica.

Bird activity included Northern Wheatear, Choughs, a Wren, Chaffinch and Alpine Swift, nesting just inside the cave entrance. All the thousands of cushion-forming Acantholimon looked dead and the rock hugging Prunus prostrata did not appear to have liked the cold winter. Other than a comfort stop at the first place we stopped in the morning, the journey was speedy and uneventful, the exception being a stop to admire Axos Church in the early evening sunlight, with a Blue Rock Thrush posing on top of the cross.

We were back at Spili by 6pm which allowed nearly an hour to press our dress suits and ball gowns before enjoying the hospitality of Maria and Kostas and specially prepared Beef Stefado.

Day 6 Tuesday 12th April Festos

According to the Greek Television weather presenter, there is a high pressure centered over our area - long may it continue. So it was in sunny weather that we made our way towards Timbaki and Festos. After about 12km we stopped by the side of the road, with superb views of Psiloritis with numerous large patches of snow. We all crossed over the road to the gently sloping field, much of which had been ploughed and a general coarse meadow mixture sown. The underlying soil is clay, and very sticky and slippery when wet, but we were lucky and the ground was moderately dry and hard. Mike found a land crab which was well photographed. We were able to see the distinct differences between Tragopogon hybridus and porrifolius. In the centre of the sloping meadow was a fine display of the large headed pink onion Allium nigrum, well mixed with Gladiolus italicus. Other main meadow flowers included Bellardia trixago and Coronilla parviflora. The orchid hunters found numerous Serapias, and Ophrys cretica ssp. ariadnae. Paul went hunting for a red form of Ranunculus asiaticus, only finding some pink ones and thousands of whites. John admired a strong growing Echium creticum. The warm weather brought out the butterflies and an obliging freshly hatched Clouded Yellow was well photographed A Little Blue was not so obliging, neither were the Swallowtail and Scarce Swallowtail on the other side of the road. We traversed the bank of typical low garrigue on the other side of the road to the calls of numerous frogs in a nearby farmers water storage reservoir. Terry found a small patch of the diminutive Linaria pelisseriana. Just when we about to leave Mike noticed a Blue Tit nipping into a small hole in the gnarled trunk of an ancient olive tree while at the same time a Long-legged Buzzard circled overhead.

As we were already behind schedule, it was agreed to go directly to Festos. We turned away from Agia Galini and took the climbing twisting road, where from the summit it is possible to overlook the Timbaki plain with its sea of polythene clad greenhouses. Medicago arborea was a common shrub on the roadside bends. It is quite an art to negotiate the main street of Timbaki with all its double and triple roadside parking. Obviously Timbaki does not have a traffic warden or the local police have given up trying to control the traffic. Shortly before the final

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climb to Festos we passed a mass of Ricinus communis and a few large lax bushes of Nicotiana glauca, followed by a roadside mixture of Echium plantagineum and the Honeywort, Cerinthe major. Mike, Hazel and Paul decided that they would like a session of culture so while they toured the Minoan site of Festos the rest of us botanised or chased butterflies, all aware of the perfume from the numerous citrus trees in the valley below. Our first hunt was around the back of the chapel where the diminutive Campanula erinus grows from a couple of gaps between building blocks.

The nearby slope is very dry and a mixture of limestone and chalk and usually provides an interesting range of plants. Most notable were tall spikes of Anacamptis pyramidalis. Helichrysum was flowering well and in places the trailing Convolvulus althaeoides was in bloom. When the others returned from their tour of Festos we drove down to the village of Kalamaki on the coast, finding a restaurant with tables right next to the beach. We wondered what the item was floating a couple of hundred meters off shore. We eventually realised that it was a pair of mating Loggerhead Turtles. When they were less than 10m from the shore a young man selfishly waded into the sea to get a better look, and the turtles very, very quickly swam out into deeper water. The restaurant owner said that they do come ashore and lay their eggs. Immediately afterwards the locals fence off the area to protect them and the hatchlings. After all the excitement and our lunch we went back to Festos and took the Agia Triada road, spending the remainder of the afternoon above Agia Triada, where the Ebenus cretica was just coming into bloom. Cultivation and sprinkling of nitrogen had reduced the flowers and orchids but we still managed to find more than enough to interest and excite us. Eventually we had to make our way back to Spili. Back at Spili we had time to update the orchid list before supper.

Day 7 Wednesday 13th April Armeni, Plaxias and Damoni

The day started with a short detour to purchase another bag of crisps and two freshly baked (still warm) brown loaves, and we were off towards Rethymon. Our first port of call, being the Armeni Minoan cemetery which is known as the best Minoan burial site in the Mediterranean. It is dated 1340BC and consists of 233 crypts carved out of the rock. Over 1000 skeletons have been excavated of which 159 were in the largest chamber. Robbers had removed gold and jewels but a wide range of pottery, pithoi, bronze ornaments are in a museum. The settlement has recently been discovered about 1km away and only 2 houses have been excavated to date. Funding is from US Archaeology.

We all seemed to have our own agenda, from hunting allover the site, clambering down into some of the tombs or photographing a limited number of plants in detail. In the top corner of the site there are two pits, with Cyclamen creticum flowering in the rocky sides. Onosma graecum with yellow tubular flowers turning orange-brown with age was exceptionally photogenic. Hazel found a little colony of Tuberaria guttata.

We then made our way to Plaxias via the Kotsifou Gorge, checking that the restaurant at the top on the outskirts of Agios Ioannis would be open for lunch tomorrow. Plakias has changed dramatically from the little sea-side village of 25 years ago, and the amount of new building and sites marked for development mean that it will be a moderately large sea-side town in another 25 years. The beach side bar we used last year as a picnic area obviously was not being refurbished last year but being ripped apart, as it was in a far too bad a condition to use this

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year, so we had our picnic on a low wall - part of a developing promenade.

When everything had been packed away we walked over part of the beach, now rich in sea daffodil, Sea Medick, and Sea Spurge, the dunes having virtually disappeared. The majestic rock face at the start of the Kakomouri headland had Verbascum arcturus and Scorzonera cretica in bloom, but the Capparis was only just breaking into leaf. Paul was delighted that it was warm enough for the Festoon butterflies to be on the wing. Walking along we found Ophrys candida. The Festoon butterflies lay their eggs on Aristolochia cretica, so Terry found plants, which when the leaves were gently parted the large pipe-like blooms were revealed. A few people ventured through the tunnel in the rocky cliff, which had Tulipa cretica and Scorzonera cretica growing in cracks.

Paul asked to be left chasing Festoons while the rest of us went to the neighboring area of Damoni. The cliffs on one side of the track was dominated by bushes of Euphorbia dendroides, many of the flowers and terminal leaves having red tints. These and the drifts of Echium plantagineum were dramatic in the evening light. We were welcomed by a Wheatear in breeding plumage. We wandered around for nearly an hour finding patches of ground hugging Anthemis rigida and Lomalosia brachiata, the flower of which looks like half a Scabious flower. We then collected Paul and drove around Sweetwater Bay, past the new harbour area of Souda to the far end where we looked at the specimens of Phoenix theophrastii palms, and caused shoals of small fish to scuttle to safety in the little steam which ran in to the sea.

We then made our way to Panorama Restaurant at Mirthios, where on the balcony, overlooking Plaxias and Sweetwater Bay we had a delicious evening meal which began with a wide range of local dishes. It was dark when we drove up the Kourtaliotis Gorge back to Spili after a most enjoyable evening ending a superb day.

Day 8 Thursday 14th April Iraklion - Kourtaliotis & Kotsifou gorges, Agios Ioannis

Terry was up at 5am to drive Mike and Hazel to Iraklion airport as they had only booked a weeks holiday in Crete. He arrived back at Spili just in time for Heracles’s breakfast therefore it was possible to make the normal 9.15am start.

After a brief stop to purchase more bottled water we drove to the Kourtaliotis Gorge. We were experiencing cloudy skies, some moderately low - a change in the weather from the previous wall to wall sunshine from cloudless skies. Despite the low cloud the Griffon Vultures were flying, as were the Choughs.

While keeping an eye on the traffic we wandered down part of the gorge looking at the flora, which due to the lateness of the season was virtually flowerless. On crossing over the road to the river side we came across delightful patches of Ricotia cretica flowering among the scree. A stop at the chapel produced Anchusa variegata but not any Muscari as in previous years, so it was off down the gorge to a track on the left in an olive orchard. In the middle of the track were vigorous clumps of pure white Bellardia trixago and numerous spikes of Silene bellidifolia. One farmer had cleaned under all his olive trees with Roundup and destroyed all but two plants of a previously large drift of the white Iris albicans. Under one olive tree Terry pointed out a strong

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single plant of Ophrys episcopalis which to his knowledge has been flowering there for over 21 years. The orchard on the hillside is exceptionally rich in Serapias lingua and bergonii plus a limited number of parviflora despite a vast amount of Oxalis pes-caprae. By now the sky looked very menacing and on reaching the bottom of the Kotsifou gorge, just after photographing Iris albicans it began to rain. However by the time we had put on our rain coats it had stopped. We walked slowly up the gorge, with Terry ‘frog hopping’ with the mini-bus. At the chapel, which has recently been renovated, we noted growing in close proximity Arum creticum, Brassica cretica, Ricotia cretica, Bryonia cretica, Scorzonera cretica, Symphytum creticum and Cyclamen creticum. On a nearby rock face Verbascum arcturus was just breaking into bloom. All the Symphytum creticum leaves were full of small holes, but we could not find the culprit. Higher up the gorge the leaves had not been eaten, or perhaps the holes were due to a fungus, although on the rocks were clusters of Nail Snails. Nearing the top Linum arboreum was in bloom. All the time we had been entertained by numerous Choughs and Jackdaws.

The last few bends up to the restaurant were made in the mini-bus. It was then that John realised that somewhere down the gorge he had left his tripod, so while he and Sheila made themselves comfortable in the restaurant, Terry, Paul and Richard went back down the gorge to find it. Re-united with his tripod John treated us all to a refreshing cold drink. The restaurant not only produces a selection of top quality traditional dishes, including local leaves and onions (Muscari comosum bulbs) but we are invited into the kitchen to be shown the various dishes and decide what we want. Asking for a sample of 3 or 4 is common practice.

After lunch which always ends with a dish of peels preserved in syrup with a dollop of yoghurt, we drove a short distance up the road and parked on the edge of Agios Ioannis village. We once used to drive between the houses and up into the wood, but that was when the mini-buses were much narrower. So we walked, passing the old washing house with some of the old basins hosting Adiantum capillus-veneris. Only a few of the numerous cistus were flowering. Eventually we reached an area where the dominant shrubs are Erica arborea and Arbutus unedo which were in flower and Myrtus communis. I am sure that Vita Sackville-West of Sissinghurst who promoted the idea of white borders in the garden would have approved, especially where the ground cover turns to a carpet of Cyclamen creticum, which emit a delicious fragrance when grown en masse. While others were taking numerous photographs Terry removed lots of branches which came from a large oak tree.

Paul and Richard after photographing the local form of Speckled Wood, tried to sort out the identification of a little blue butterfly flitting among the foliage high up in an oak tree. We then walked into the wood and up towards a chapel coming across a strong double-spiked deep pink Dactylorhiza romana. Approaching the chapel we realised that this species had spread from the known small colony by the chapel and was now in every shade from the deep pink to white. Terry counted over a hundred plants growing just below the chapel which is at least four times more than he had previously seen. By now the sun was shining brightly and we made our way back down to the vehicle, and back to Spili, ready for another good meal with Maria and Kostas.

Day 9 Friday 15th April Gious Kambos, Antonios Gorge, Amari and

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Fourfouras.

9.15 and the sun is shining from a cloudless sky as we roll away from Heracles. Our first stop was just along the first turn off from the Gious Kambos road. Perhaps this area might be productive for new plants, but we were out of luck botanically, but not regarding ornithology as we had excellent views of a Lesser Whitethroat. A short distance further on a rocky bank on a corner where there are excellent views across the countryside and Antonis Gorge we came across a wide range of plants. A perfect place to recap on many plants seen earlier on the holiday, especially orchids - Anacamptis collina, Anacamptis papilionaceae ssp. albertis, Anacamptis pyramidalis, Himantoglossum robertianum, Neotinea lactea, Ophrys bombyliflora, Ophrys cretica cretica, Ophrys cretica ariadnae, Ophrys fusca fusca, Ophrys episcopalis, Ophrys heldreichii, Ophrys mammosa, Ophrys phryganae, Ophrys sicula, Ophrys tenthredinifera, Orchis italica, Orchis pauciflora, Orchis quadripunctata, Orchis simia and Serapias bergonii. Then add Daphne, Hermodactylis, Anemone coronaria and hortensis, and much more. We eventually broke away and headed for Antonis Gorge, having to cross the newly constructed highway. A giant café has been built close to the start of the gorge, and a lot of work has been done repairing paths and steps.

The cave area has been used since at least 2000BC. It was an important Minoan place, and now the gorge is being made into a tourist attraction. It is lovely to hear and at times see the water working its way between rocks at the bottom of the gorge, while enjoying the scent from numerous Cyclamen creticum. Arum concinnum was coming into bloom with extra large pale- green spathes, and close to the spring, Saxifraga hederacea was flowering. Lower down the gorge Viola cretica, its strong scent being a major feature, clung to path-side rocks in partial shade. Numerous Jackdaws were behaving as if they owned the gorge, chasing away other birds, especially a pair of kestrels, which we believe to be Lesser Kestrels.

Shortly after leaving the gorge we had to use another section of the highway, which we found interesting as this major motorway suddenly changes to a narrow winding up and down hill section, before become a major highway again. Eventually a signpost pointed to our destination, Amari. It was not long before there was the picturesque Monastiraki Byzantine Church standing between sentinels of the columnar form of Cupressus sempervirens. One adjoining field was full of blooming fodder peas; another was dominated by tall Allium nigrum, interspersed with Gladiolus italicus. A trackside bank produced some fine spikes of orchids including Anacamptis laxiflora in a wet area. We then tried to find The Monumental Olive Tree, further along the track. We didn’t find it, but we did see a Purple Heron and a couple of fields dotted with red flowered Tulipa doefleri. In attempting to not drive along the track below the terraces where groups have often had their picnic and where on more than one occasion mini- buses have slipped into a muddy ditch, and have been difficult to extract, Terry took a detour and got lost. Eventually a suitable road was found which passed a little 13th century chapel standing in an olive orchard. It proved as good a place for a picnic as last year, as the chapel door was unlocked and we ‘borrowed’ five chairs.

After lunch we walked across the road and up a little track, finding a ‘gate’ in the wire fence, giving access to a series of terraces. Here we found an interesting range of plants including numerous orchids. This year the area was more productive than others.

Our final destination was Fourfouras , where once again orchid hunting was the main priority. The dominant orchids were Ophrys heldreichii, Ophrys episcopalis, various Serapias and

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Anacamptis collina, of which some were about 45cm tall.

We had a drink at a nearby café before making the non-stop return to Spili, leaving time for lists before supper.

Day 10 Saturday 16th April Gious Kambos and Preveli

As the majority of shops would be shut tomorrow, some shopping was needed, so it was agreed to leave at 9.30am. Everyone wanted to re-visit the mound area above Spili - Gious Kambos. Heracles had obtained a weather report the previous evening which indicated that the day would be cloudy and overcast with rain by early evening. Looking at the amount of blue sky we wondered if the weather report was correct. The sun shone for most of the day, often through a delicate haze, ideal for photography, and by midnight there had not been a hint of rain, although we all felt that the weather during the day was hot and humid. What a change eight days had made to the Gious Kambos. Where there had been only a few Tulipa doefleri there were now thousands, and there were now very many more orchids, especially Ophrys. On the famous mound we noted all the ‘old’ favorites although some species were now represented by superior quality plants. New to our list was Orchis tridentata (now renamed Neotinea tridentata) They were easily spotted as the pink/purple markings were more vivid than Neotinea lactea and the flowering head much shorter. Everyone had spent a short time on the field and bank opposite the mound, and Sheila, John and Paul asked to remain photographing plants on the mound until one o'clock, whereas Richard wanted to go with Terry to an area above the chapel. Once again we came across the standard range of orchids including more Neotinea tridentata. When Terry and Richard moved to a higher level they found some Fritillaria messanensis open, but the best plant was a strong double header found by Richard. In numerous cracks Cyclamen creticum was flowering and giving off a strong perfume. We all met up and found a quiet grassy corner for our picnic.

Next on the agenda was Preveli Monastery, which involved driving down the Koutaliotis Gorge, which seemed today to only have a few high flying Griffon Vultures and Choughs. The Preveli road follows around part of the coast, with excellent views. On the cliff edge is a Memorial to those who lost their lives fighting the German invaders on Crete during World War II.

A number of years ago there had been a serious fire, destroying a vast area of trees and scrub, stopping when only close to the monastery. Soon after the fire a major tree replanting scheme was carried out, but sadly another fire last year has destroyed much of this. Plaques in the monastery give praise to the brave members of the order who helped the allied forces during the war, help which included getting many, one of which was a senior captured German Officer, off the island.

We decided to have a look at Preveli Beach where the Koutaliotis Gorge meets the sea. Either side of the river from the gorge are numerous Phoenix theophrastii palms, making it look like a tropical beach, although there was a lot of dead leaves showing below tufts of green leaves. We were told that last years fire spread down to this area, hence the damaged foliage. Dominant plants alongside the rocky path to the view point were Malva cretica, Salvia viridis, and Lomalosia echinata. By now we were all thirsty so we stopped at the café by the Byzantine arched bridge.

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While sucking iced fruit lollies, the owner explained how bad business was at present, believing that not only was the World financial crisis dramatically reducing visitor numbers but even the locals were staying at home. Paul opted to look for butterflies and came across an excellent specimen of the festoon.

We were back at Heracles shortly after 5pm allowing time to prepare for supper, which we had after tidying the lists up to date. At Maria and Kostas, we had another excellent meal, finished off as we had done every other evening with complimentary raki. We thanked them for their hospitality and preparing some special meals for us with a bottle of wine and a box of special cakes.

Day 11 Sunday 17th April Spili - Frangokastello - Anapoli - Aradena

By 9.30 the vehicle was packed and we had made our fond farewells to Heracles and Christina, which also included a presentation box of special cakes and a bottle of wine. The weather was exceptionally calm and pleasantly warm, with the sun shining, although clouds were to be seen westward, our direction of travel. A brief stop was made in the Kourtaliotis Gorge, where on the high ridge Griffon Vultures soared, often with Ravens and Choughs. There was not a breath of wind in the gorge, but obviously a good uplifting air current on the ridge, although we did watch a Raven working hard to gain height.

Just before Mirthios we stopped to photograph some very floriferous Glaucium flavum, growing on a low cliff, the ground cover being almost solid Bituminaria (Psoralea) bituminosa. The weather was so good that we kept our speed down so that we could enjoy the views and the roadside flowers, which were dominated by Chrysanthemum coronarium and its variegated form tricolor. The road twists and turns, often squeezing through villages, made more difficult today as being Sunday, many cars were parked outside houses or near to churches. We saw numerous people walking away from church carrying crosses woven from strips of palm leaves.

We made a stop to photograph good spikes of Verbascum macurum. A corner had huge plants of Dracunculus vulgare, in an area where goats are kept, probably overnight, and the area stunk of goats and the foetid smell of the Dracunculus. While goats do not like Dracunculus, they had damaged them. A corner of phrygana was checked over finding masses of small plants of pink Centaurium, Anagallis, Solenopsis miniata and small daisy-like flowers of Tolpis barbata, each bloom with a dark centre. Blue and almost white forms of Love-in-a-mist were checked out and were probably Nigella damascena, but the colour of the anthers was needed to be sure that we were not looking at a new plant for our list.

Frangokastello let us down with about the only bird seen being Yellow-legged Gull. We photographed a Swallowtail butterfly and then we checked a white patch, thinking it might be a butterfly at rest. To our amazement it was Narcissus tazetta. We searched an adjoining wet area finding Serapias lingua and bergonii, Anacamptis laxiflora and Ophrys heldreichii, one of which looked very much like Ophrys apifera. On the beach Medicago marina and Euphorbia paralis flourished. We had our picnic using round toadstool-like tables close to the sea. Not far from Frangokastello we stopped for a magnificent plant of the Cretan Wall Lettuce, Petromarula pinnata , a member of the campanula family. It was growing on the rock cliff which a house had been built into. Also on the rock cliff were numerous plants of Verbascum arcturus in flower. We

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made the steep twisting journey up to Anapoli and the Kopasis Rooms. Poppi greeted us with open arms, although she was busy serving meals to a group of motorcyclists and a number of walkers. One of the walkers was Devon Member of Parliament, Ben Bradshaw who Terry knows and they had a brief conversation about the ‘wonders of Crete’, by which time Poppi had allocated rooms. We had about 45 minutes to settle into our rooms before going for a short trip along the road to Aradena. Our first stop was to look at the famous pony track which zig- zags down into the gorge and up the other side. Once the only access but now the gorge is easily crossed by a ‘Bailey’ bridge donated by a villager who made his fortune in the USA. At this point in time the clouds began to thicken and we were blessed with a few drops of rain. Unfortunately the weather was about the worst one could have for birdwatching, and we were only able to get fleeting glimpses of Blue Tits, Greenfinch, House Sparrow and a black and white coloured bird. Eventually one was sitting not far from us and then kept flying off catching insects but never returning to the same perch - a useful identification feature of a Pied or Semi-collared Flycatcher.

Just before parking up for the evening, we went along a road/track looking for the place where Ophrys spruneri ssp. spruneri grows. At 7pm sitting in the shop/dining room with a very warm wood-burning stove close to us, we found out why Poppi has such a good reputation in the district for quality food.

Day 12 Monday 18th April Imbros Gorge and Igios Ioannis

Richard and Terry were out birdwatching at 7pm when the sun was just catching the top of Kavioli, while the wooded area below was still in shade. Most of the trees had black trunks and branches from sooty mold, which is a secondary problem arising from the honeydew given off by the vast amount of white, fluffy woolly aphis. Bees also like the honeydew, therefore there are in the vicinity a lot of bee hives. The wood was about the quietest I have known (over 12 years) and it was only when the sun touched the trees when returning to Anapoli that we saw birds. These included three species of flycatchers - Spotted, Pied and Semi-collared. We also noted Greenfinches, Goldfinches, a Bullfinch, and numerous sparrows.

Breakfast was at 8.30 and the cups of filtered coffee were perfection. By 9.30am, our agreed departure time, there was a menacing dark cloud table-cloth over the mountains. We had also noted that the start of the forest track up to Kavoli was very badly eroded by run off. Two days earlier, when we had just a few spots of rain at Spili, the area around Anapoli had suffered a terrific downpour and major parts of the forest track were impassable even for the local farmers’ vehicles.

We therefore decided to visit the lower part of the Imbros gorge. It took just over 30 min to negotiate the twists and turns to the foot of the gorge. New to us was the deep pink Silene cretica, and we appreciated the mass of yellow-green flowers on Acer sempervirens. We sorted out the identification of three poppies - argemone ssp nigrotinctum, purpureomarginatum and rhoeas. There were various medicks and other Fabaceae, and many plants of the endemic Verbascum spinosum, alas not in flower. A few Common Blues and a couple of rather tired looking Long-tailed Blue butterflies were seen. The gorge looked superb in bright light and the air was still and warm. A Golden Eagle was seen and close up views of a Sardinian Warbler in perfect breeding plumage. After walking up hill for two hours we retraced our steps taking

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only an hour to reach the taverna where we had parked our vehicle. It seemed appropriate to order drinks and Richard kindly treated us to fresh orange juices and a coke.

It was now lunch time and by the time we had travelled a couple of hundred meters to a small church where there was a long concrete table and benches, a cold wind had developed. Probably a katabatic wind - the cold air from higher up moving down to replace warmer air which would be rising. We managed to find a wall where our backs could soak up the sun.

After lunch we made our way back via Hora Sfakion to Anapoli, up the recently re-built steep zig-zag road. On reaching Anapoli we drove to the known site of Ophrys spruneri. Richard risked his manhood by climbing over the re-enforced wire fence, while the rest of us found an entrance by a goat shed and traversed a field of freshly grown grass to the orchids. Now came the problem of final nomenclature. Tristan Lafranchis and Sfikas only recognise Ophrys spruneri but some authorities especially Delforge divide the species into subsp grigoriana and spruneri depending on how split the lip is and an even less reliable distinction - flowering period. We found both types close to each other.

We then drove past Aradena, crossing the gorge by the Bailey bridge and visited Igios Ioannis, a little hamlet where we hoped to find some butterflies. Alas, despite the abundance of wild flowers not a butterfly was to be seen. So after a walk around the hamlet we went back to Poppi’s - time for a cold beer, and a good natter before supper. Beans, Greek salad, tzatziki, rabbit and lamb with potatoes followed by yoghurt and honey and orange preserved in syrup. After a good chin wag it was time for bed.

Day 13 Tuesday 19th April Anapoli to Georgeopolis and Omalas

Richard and Terry took a ninety minute stroll before breakfast, this time staying nearer Anapoli, where the olive groves would catch the morning sun early on seeing Collared and Pied Flycatchers and a Woodchat Shrike, however the unexpected treat was to find a few areas which had escaped the foraging sheep and goats. These areas gave an indication of just how botanically rich the area once was before all the soil tillage, and overgrazing. Ten different species of orchids were found, including a hundred or more Ophrys spruneri.

After breakfast we bade our farewells to Poppi and started our journey to Omalos. Just 50m down the road the local baker had just finished baking Terry’s order of two loaves and cheese pies. They were too hot to handle and were placed in a cardboard box, from where their tantalizing aroma permeated the mini-bus. Then followed the twists and turns down to Hora Sfakion. It is only a short distance to the start of the Imbros Gorge road, which in the past couple of years has been upgraded. Plant lovers would say, ‘down graded’, as the banks of established flora have been carved away, and a number of previously used parking places got rid of, as well as building three short tunnels. Near the top of the gorge road we took a track into a quarry area. The weather was now cold and hinted of rain, but we were hoping to find a Paeonia clusii in flower - alas we did not even find a plant, let alone a flower.

A short stop was made to photograph the ornate church of Petres which overlooks the area, before descending by yet more twists and turns, down to the North coast. Just outside Georgiopolis we stopped briefly by the spring fed pool, just to see what was about - mostly

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coots and moorhens and a few domesticated ducks. A stop was made by the quayside at Georgiopolis, where we were greeted by a Pelican intent on leaving the waterfront and taking a stroll up the main shopping street.

There did not seem to be any small fish to be seen under the moored boats, which might explain why the usual Cormorants were not around. As it approached lunch time we moved back to the spring fed pond for our last picnic. We watched two pairs of Garganey and a Kingfisher. In the nearby roadside bank was a large Styrax officinalis just breaking into flower. Well fed and watered we drove onto the main North road and headed westward towards Chania. Eventually a sign pointed to Laki and Omalos.

It is not far from the turnoff that we found ourselves in the orange growing district, the perfume being lovely and the trees ‘decorated’ with masses of oranges was a special treat. Eventually a turning on our right led to Agia lake/reservoir as a Marsh Harrier flew overhead. Once again we were out of luck as regards the usual selection of water-loving birds, but the low in numbers were more than compensated by close up views of Spotted and Little Crakes.

We eventually left and began climbing up to Omalos, leaving behind all the orange groves. A very brief photographic stop was made for the three men statue at Laki. On reaching the Omalos plain we made a brief tour of the area to check how the Tulipa bakeri was doing - very nicely thank you, albeit that a vast number were now fenced off. We did plant lists at 6.45 before tucking into Neo Omalos’s evening meal.

Day 14 Wednesday 20th April Above Samaria gorge - Omalos plain - Irini gorge – Tsiskiana

At 7am Terry and Richard found that what looked like a heavy dew was actually frost, therefore their ninety minute birdwatching session was a cold one. Stonechat, Wheatear and a pipit were all they saw, although Terry went along to the cave, where the water from Omalos would drain away, and here he got close to a number of Crag Martins. Here also were the first sightings of Aubrietia deltoidea and a fine clump of Gagea chrysantha.

After breakfast we drove to the top of the Samaria Gorge, stopping to look at Zelkova abelicea on the way, although it was still dormant and leafless. The weather was not looking very promising with a lot of low cloud, although tiny patches of blue sky were occasionally seen. After a quick look down into the Samaria Gorge from the viewpoint close to the office where a barrier had a large notice ‘Stop – Danger’, we began climbing the steps and zig-zag path upwards. Part way up the clouds closed in and it began to drizzle. No sooner had we donned raincoats and put waterproof covers over our rucksacks than it stopped raining, although there was a cold wind. At times the sun broke through and it was very pleasant when out of the wind. Dominant plants in flower were the endemic white Cerastium scaposum, Aubrietia deltoidea and Lamium amplexicaule. A plant of note was a hummock, very spiky and with white pea-like flowers - Astragalus angustifolius. We stopped when the path started going downhil , then across a large scree before making for the ridge. The old Cupressus sempervirens are exceptionally gnarled and very photogenic. We looked at many of the tiny plants of Myosotis, Lithospermum, Thlaspi, Alyssum and a minute single blue and white pea with trifoliate leaves. Paul’s GPS

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indicated that we had climbed 1000ft.

On the way down we came across Scilla nana among Berberis cretica and Corydalis among shattered rocks. On reaching the car park and our vehicle we went looking for quality Tulipa bakeri that were not closed because of the cold. We found some and also very many Anemone coronaria in a very wide range of colours. Back at the Neo Omalos we had bowls of soup and chips before going out for the afternoon.

The Irini Gorge was attractive with Platanus orientalis breaking into leaf and a fair amount of water running down the bottom of the gorge. There were also many Cyclamen creticum and a few plants of Lithodora hispidula as well as masses of Anthemis and Bellis, although many of these were partly closed as the gorge was still cold. A single Greenfinch, a high flying Raven and some House Sparrows were all we saw in the bird life, although there was a fleeting glimpse of a black and white flycatcher as we reached the road at the entrance to the gorge. About 2km beyond Tsiskiana he stopped at a likely spot, where a farm track crossed the main road. On the corner was a good specimen of Serapias orientalis, and we were to find many more. Richard found Anacamptis fragrans and then a real treasure Ophrys fleischmannii. We spent some time here and Paul even saw on the wing a Painted Lady, and a battered Speckled Wood. The temperature was around 13°C. When we drove back up to Omalas the temperature went down to 5°C.

We all met at 7pm for supper and updated the orchid list. Terry mentioned that he had found a tick on himself, last night, for the 1st time ever on a trip to Crete, and he had visited the island at least a dozen times. It happened to be firmly embedded on his buttocks and to check exactly what it was he spent a long time trying to photograph it using the macro on his camera. Once he had decided it was a tick he eventually got it to release its grip by dabbing it with raki. It was then time to settle bills and pack, ready for early starts in the morning.

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Systematic List Number 1 Flowers

Itineray

Day 1 Travel London - Heraklion - Spilli Day 2 Spilli - Gious Kambos Day 3 Triopetra Day 4 Kourtaliotis Gorge - Psilloritis Day 5 Mourne - Drimiskos Day 6 Festos Day 7 Armeni - Viglotopi - Plaxias - Damoni Day 8 Iraklion - Kourtaliotis - Plaxias - Kotsifou - Agios Ioannis Day 9 Gious Kambos - Antonis Gorge - Amari - Fourfouras Day 10 Gious Kambos - Preveli Day 11 Spilli - Frangolestello - Anapoli - Aradena Day 12 Imbros Gorge - Aradena - Agio Ioannis Day 13 Geogopolis - Omalos Day 14 Xiloskala - Omalos - Irini Gorge - Tsiskiana

Key to a plant’s day numbering e.g. A plant marked as follows :- 2, 3, 6-9, Seen Means that the plant was noted on day 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 9, and also seen but days not recorded.

Aceraceae Acer sempervirens - Cretan Maple) (4, 5, 7, 12-14) [Small tree with 3-lobed leaves, and yellowish-green flowers].

Aizoaceae Carpobrotus edulis - Hottentot-fig ( 3, 4, 6-12) Near coast by roads, on sand and rocks. [Mats of succulent leaves and pink daisy-like flowers]. Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum - "Ice-plant"( 3) Rare in compacted sand and rocks at Triopetra. [Prostrate with narrow succulent leaves, white flower-buds].

Anacardiaceae Pistacia lentiscus- Mastic Tree ( 2-13) Forming dense thickets along coast [Evergreen shrub whose pinnate leaves normally have no terminal leaflet]. Pistacia terebinthus - Turpentine Tree Scrub (10-13) [Small deciduous tree, whose pinnate leaves have a terminal leaflet; branched brownish flower-panicles]. Schinus molle - Californian Pepper-tree (4, 13) [Small tree with pendulous branches, pinnate leaves, many narrow leaflets].

Apocynaceae Nerium oleander - Oleander (2-14) Though planted along the north coast road, clearly native by streams and wet gullies: [Shrub with long leathery leaves, and gaudy pink flowers] Vinca major- Greater Periwinkle) (2-10) Naturalised by road [Scrambling plant with opposite leathery leaves and blue flowers].

Araliaceae Hedera helix Ivy - (4, 6, 8, 9, 11, 13, 14) [Familiar evergreen climber with lobed leaves].

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Aristolochiaceae Aristolochia cretica - Cretan Birthwort (7) Occasional Plakias headland [Low scrambling plant with heart-shaped leaves and large brown flowers like A Dutchman’ s Pipe. Endemic]. Aristolochia sempervirens - Perennial Birthwort (13 )

Berberidaceae Berberis cretica - Cretan Barberry ( 4, 12-14) Forming [Low shrub with 3 spines at each node, and leaves emerging].

Boraginaceae Alkanna sieberi (14) Anchusa hybrida- undulate Alkanet (6, 9, 10, 12 ) Dry disturbed ground. [Bristly herb with wavy leaves and bluish funnel-shaped flowers]. Anchusa italica- large Blue Alkanet (3, 4, 6-13 ) Frequent by roads and in disturbed areas. [Large bristly herb with open panicle of big bright blue flowers] Anchusa variegata- an alkanet) ( ) Rocky gorge paths. [Like prostrate A. hybrida, but mottled leaves, red-marked whitish/bluish flowers]. Borago officinalis -Borage (7-9 ) Waste ground. [Blue, star-like and almost nodding flowers, oval bristly leaves]. Cerinthe major Honeywort (4, 6, 7, 9, 13 ) Roadsides: [Patch-forming, grey with white swellings, and nodding yellow flowers with reddish-purple base]. Cynoglossum cherifolium (3, 7, 9, 10) Cynoglossum columnae (12-14) Cynoglossum creticum- Blue Hound's-tongue (2, 3, 5-13 ) Pathsides and rough ground. [As latter but with larger dark-veined pale blue flowers]. Echium angustifolium- Narrow-leaved Bugloss - (5-11 ) Verges [Typical bugloss, but with narrow leaves and red flowers] Echium italicum- Pale Bugloss ( 2, 3, 5-8, 10, 11 ) Verges and waste ground: [Distinctive pyramidal inflorescence of bluish-white flowers]. Echium parviflorum - Small-flowered Bugloss (6) Echium plantagineum- Purple Viper's-bugloss (2, 3, 5-11, 13 ) Verges:[Big violet-blue funnel-like flowers]. Lithospermum incrassatum- (a gromwell) (4, 14 ) Among scree above tree-line [Small decumbent herb with narrow in rolled leaves, and regular blue flowers]. Myosotis incrassatum - (4, 5) Myosotis ramosissima- Early Forget-me-not (2 ) Gravel: [Tiny blue-flowered forget-me-not]. Myosotis refracta (2) Neatostema apulum- Yellow Gromwell (3 ) Rocky point at Triopetra. [Typical small erect gromwell, with small yellow flowers]. Onosma graecum- Greek Golden-drop (2, 7-9, 13 ) Rough ground. [Erect, very bristly - orange/purple tinged yellow flowers]. Paracaryum lithospermifolium- (no common name) (14 ) Rocky ground at 1900m. [Low, grey with narrow leaves; tiny violet-blue flowers. Subsp. cariense]. Symphytum creticum- Procopiania (7, 8 ) On and below gorge cliffs. [Like a small white comfrey, but with divided flowers, lobes recurved].

Cactaceae Opuntia ficus-barbarica- Barbary-fig (2- 11, 13, 14 ) Verges and olive groves. [Large cactus, made up of flattened jointed stems]

Campanulaceae

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Campanula erinus - Annual Bellflower (6 ) Old walls and rocks. [Tiny herb with toothed leaves, and 3-5mm blue bells]. Campanula saxatilis - (a bellflower) (7-9 ) Rock-crevices, particularly near the sea. Petromarula pinnata - Cretan Blue-lettuce (2, 5, 7-9, 11-13 ) Despite its endemic status, common on wall) as well as gorges [Pinnate leaves (toothed leaflets) and spikes of pale blue flowers with recurved lobes]. Solenopsis m. minuta - Laurentia (3, 11 ) Moist stony slope. [Tiny blue plant resembling Lobelia].

Capparidaceae Capparis spinosa - Caper (4, 7) Cliffs [Decumbent, purplish stems with round leaves and paired stems; probably both subspecies rupestris and spinosa present).

Caprifoliaceae Lonicera etrusca- Etruscan Honeysuckle ( 8 ) [Typical honeysuckle, with leaves fused in pairs below flowers].

Caryophyllaceae Arenaria serpyllifolia - Thyme-leaved Sandwort (3 ) Gravel verges, mountain rocks. [Erect annual with opposite oval leaves and small white flowers with star-like sepals. Subsp. serpyllifolia at higher levels; subsp. leptoclados down to sea-level]. Cerastium brachypetalum - Grey Mouse-ear (Seen) Cerastium glomeratum- Sticky Mouse-ear ( Seen ) Roadside gravel, also under pines,. [Erect sticky, regularly branched annual mouse-ear]. Cerastium scaposum- (a mouse-ear) ( 14 ) Common in stony places, through and above forest [Compact mouse-ear with large white flowers on long stalks. Endemic]. Petrorhagia velutina- (an annual pink) (5-11, 14 ) Disturbed ground and rocks: [Slender pink, brown papery bracts]. Polycarpon tetraphyllum - Four-leaved Allseed ( 2 ) Bare ground and rocks. [Short much-branched annual, leaves in Awhorls@ of 4, clusters of white flowers] Silene bellidifolia (a catchfly) (8, 10-13 ) [Erect annual, with one-sided spike of pink flowers with reflexed petals]. Silene colorata (a catchfly) ( 3, 7, 8, 10-13 ) Common on sand at coast also on roadside gravel in Kourtaliotis gorge. [Short annual with narrow leaves and showy rose-pink flowers, deep-notched petals]. Silene cretica - Cretan Catchfly ( 12-14 ) Widespread in rocky and disturbed places: [Slender sticky annual with rose-pink flowers]. Stellaria media- Common Chickweed ( 2-14 ) Disturbed ground, [The familiar weed].

Chenopodiaceae Atriplex halimus - Shrubby Orache (3 ) Stabilised sands and lower rocks at Triopetra. [Low shrub with silvery-white angled/oval leaves]

Cistaceae Cistus creticus- Cretan Cistus (4-14 ) Common in phrygana and garigue. [Short shrub with oval crinkly leaves and rose-pink flowers 4-6cm] Cistus parviflorus- Small-flowered Cistus (2-11, 13, 14 ) Phrygana. [Similar to last, neater, pale pink flowers ca 2-3cm wide]. Cistus salviifolius Sage-leaved Cistus- (3-5, 7-13 ) Roadsides [Sage-like leaves and white flowers 3-5cm wide]. Fumana arabica- Arabian Fumana ( 3, 5, 9, 11 ) Open phrygana [Like a narrow-leaved yellow rockrose, with 12-18mm flowers, all leaves alternate].

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Fumana thymifolia- Thyme-leaved Fumana (3, 5, 11, 14 ). [Similar, but most leaves opposite, and flowers only 9-14mm wide]. Helianthemum salicifolium - Willow-leaved rockrose (10) Tuberaria guttata Spotted Rockrose ( 7 ) Open phrygana under pines. [Similar to latter, but with basal rosette, and petals with purplish-brown blotch].

Compositae (Asteraceae) Anthemis chia- Chian Chamomile ( 4-14 ) Locally abundant in rocky or fallow land: [Similar to latter, but generally unbranched and hairless]. Anthemis rigida- Rayless Chamomile ( 7, 11, 12 ) Near sea, gorge; and by tracks from 1200-1850m above Anopoli and Omalos. [Short, often mat-forming annual, with yellow heads bearing no rays]. Asteriscus spinosus- Pallenis (3, 5-11, 14 ) Near coast in sandy and rocky sites. [Like a yellow-flowered marigold or fleabane with spine-tipped bracts around the heads]. Atractylis cancellata- (no common name) ( 3, 7, 8, 12 ). [Tiny thistle with heads surrounded in a Abird-cage@ of bracts]. Atractylis gummifera - Atractylis (Seen)[Very prickly thistle-like plants, still bearing last year’ s 3-7cm stalkless heads]. Bellis annua - Annual Daisy ( 2, 10 ) Bare (seasonally damp) clay [Very like common daisy, but tiny, annual and with heads only 5-15mm across]. Bellis longifolia (a daisy) (14 ) Crevices in limestone rocks. [Like next, but with long toothed leaves. Endemic]. Bellis perennis - Daisy ( 2, 4-7, 9-11, 13, 14 ) Moist grassland: [The familiar lawn daisy]. Calendula arvensis - Field Marigold (3-7, 11-13 ) Stony land. [Like small-flowered orange Pot Marigold]. Carduus argentatus (a thistle) (7, 10) Rocky ground, often below cliffs. [Prickly thistle with silver undersides to leaves, and long-stalked heads very variable in size]. Carduus pycnocephalus- Plymouth Thistle (7, 10, 11, 13) Waste land:[Typical tall slender leafy thistle with many small rose-purple heads] Carlina corymbosa- Flat-topped Carline Thistle a ( Seen ) Phrygana [Like Atractylis, but branched leafy stems and remains of last year’ s head. Subsp. graeca]. Centaurea calcitrapa - Red Star-thistle ( 4, 8 ) Roadsides. [Softly-leafy below (pinnately cut) but with heads of straw-coloured spines]. Centaurea idaea - Cretan Star-thistle ( 3-5, 9-14 ) Frequent on stony ground. [Grey leaved star-thistle, young heads with straw-coloured spines. Endemic]. Centaurea raphanina- Stemless Knapweed ( 2-5, 8, 10-12, 14 ) Common on cliffs and rocky phrygana from sea-level to above tree line [Distinctive rosette of pinnate leaves, with pinkish thistle-like stemless heads. Subsp. raphanina is endemic]. Chrysanthemum coronarium- Crown daisy ( 1, 3-13 ) Common by roads: [Tall 2-pinnately leaved herb with yellow (or yellow and white) heads 3-6cm wide] Chrysanthemum coronarium bicolor ( 3-13 ) Chrysanthemum segetum- Corn Marigold ( 7, 9-11 ) Rocky and fallow [Greyish annual with toothed (or lobed) leaves and large yellow daisy-like heads]. Cichorium spinosum- Spiny Chicory (3, 14 ) Rocky ground also on upper beach. [Spiny, much branched and woody, blue heads like dandelions]. Crepis pusilla (Seen) Crupina crupinastrum - Crupina (6) Cynara cornigera- (a cardoon) ( 4, 5, 7, 8, 12-14 ) Rocky places. [Like a short very prickly globe artichoke]. Cynara scolymus - Globe Artichoke ( 5, 11 ) Roadsides - almost certainly cultivated [Big non-prickly pinnately-cut leaves]. 20 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563

Echinops spinosissimus - (a globe thistle) (5, 6 ) Roadsides. [Pinnately-cut prickly leaves and erect stems bearing dense bluish globular heads]. Filago pygmaea - Dwarf Cudweed (3, 6-8, 10-12) Filago pyramidata (Seen) Galactites tomentosa - Galactites (2-14 ) Common on roadsides [Thistle-like annual with white veined leaves, and purple-lilac rayed heads] Geropogon hybridus - Goats beard (6, 9) Hedypnois cretica - Hedypnois (Seen) Rocky slopes and coastal sand). [Dandelion-like plant with stalks thickened below heads, bracts incurved in fruit] Helichrysum barrelieri - (an everlasting) ( 3, 4, 6, 7, 10, 11, 14 ) Phrygana:, quarry ; stabilised sand and rocks. [Tufted, woody-based; whitish stems, linear leaves, clustered small golden-yellow globular heads]. Helichrysum stoechas (6, 14) Helminthotheca echioides - Prickly Ox-tongue (5, 8, 10-12) Hyoseris lucida (Seen) Hypochaeris radicata- Common Cat's-ear ( 2, 3) Fallow. [Leaves all basal and rough hairy, stem branched bearing dandelion-like heads]. Notobasis syriaca - Syrian Thistle (Seen) Onopordon bracteatum (5) Onopordon tauricum (4) Phagnalon graecum - (a phagnalon) (3, 5, 6, 8, 9) Rocky phrygana: [Dwarf shrub, with narrow leaves white-felted beneath, and with long-stalked yellowish button-like heads] Picnomon acarna - Picnomon (8, 11, 12, 14) Phrygana and verges;. [Grey thistle-like plant with golden spines]. Ptilostemon chamaepeuce- Shrubby Ptilostemon ( 5, 7, 8, 12) ) Frequent on cliffs in gorges around Spili on rocky banks and by fountain, and at coast. [Small, rather pine-like, shrub with white undersides to leaves]. Pulicaria dysenterica - Common Fleabane (7) Reichardia picroides- (no common name) (3) Disturbed ground: [Coarse herb, clasping leaves and inflated dandelion-like heads] Rhagadiolus stellatus Star Hawkbit (2, 23, 5, 7-9, 11-14) ) Shady and disturbed sites:[Like low weedy Nipplewort, distinctive star-like fruiting heads] Scorzonera cretica - Cretan Vipers-grass (3, 5, 7, 8, 12, 14 ) Cliffs: coastal. [Many linear cottony leaves, and dandelion-like heads]. Senecio rupestris - Rock Ragwort ( 8 ) Debris below cliff, Kotsifou. Senecio vulgaris- Common Groundsel ( 2-14 ) Bare soil. [Familiar weed] Silybum marianum (1-9, 11-14 ) Sonchus asper - Spiny Sow-thistle (5, 7, 12, 13 ) Waste [Thistle-like plant with milky sap, and many small dandelion-like heads]. Sonchus oleraceus- Smooth Sow-thistle ( 2-13) Waste ground. [Similar to latter, but almost without prickles] Staehelina fruticosa- (a Staehelina) ( 2, 8 ) Frequent on cliffs,. [Small tufted shrub, lanceolate green leaves, remains of last year’ s thistle-like flowers] Staehelina petiolata - (a Staehelina) (2, 12 ) Limestone cliffs in [1m shrub, with oval leaves, white beneath. Endemic] Taraxacum bithynicum s.l - (a dandelion) (4, 12-14 ). Bare soil at high altitudes [A typical, if rather neat, dandelion]. Tolpis barbata (6)

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Tragopogon porrifolius common salsify (3, 4, 6-9, 11, 12 )Rocky or sandy sites: [Like leek with lilac dandelion-like heads, forming large ‘clock’].

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Convolvulaceae Convolvulus althaeoides- Mallow-leaved Bindweed ( 4, 6, 8, 9, 11 ) Rough grass [Clamberer with cordate or lobed leaves and decorative deep pink funnel-like flowers - see also below]. Convolvulus dorychnium (3) Convolvulus elegantissimus - Bindweed) (7, 11 ) Gorge edge. [Form of C. althaeoides, differing in its finely-divided silvery leaves] Convolvulus oleifolius- Olive-leaved Bindweed (3, 4, 6 ) Rocky slopes by roads [Low erect woody, with narrow silvery leaves and pink flowers]. Cuscuta epithymum- Common Dodder ( 3, 4, 6, 8-11 ) Phrygana/verges: [Parasite with reddish thread-like stems, globular clusters of 5-lobed flowers]

Crassulaceae Crassula alata- (a mossy stonecrop) (8 ) Compacted soil: pine groves fallow and near cave. [Tiny erect reddish herb with linear leaves, dense clusters of flowers] Rosularia serrata - (no common name) ( 4, 5, 7, 8, 11, 12 ) Cliffs and ledges: [Rosettes like neat grey houseleek]. Sedum album - White Stonecrop (7-9) Sedum amplexicaule- (a stonecrop) ( 9 ) With latter at Kotsifou and common in Lefka Ori: Imbros gorge, and around Omalos plain to 1600m. [Decumbent narrow-leaved succulent, leaves clasp stem. subsp. tenuifolium]. Sedum creticum (3, 7 ) Cliffs and rocky debris. [Like S. album, but slender and with pale yellow-green flowers. Endemic]. Sedum littorae (4, 6, 9, 12) Umbilicus horizontalis - (a wall pennywort) (2-4, 7-14 ) Walls and rocks: [Typical small navelwort, with reddish-green flowers].

Cruciferae (Brassicaceae) Aethionema saxatile- Burnt Candytuft ( 5, 14 ) [Short herb, crowded oval grey untoothed leaves, dense head of pink & white flowers. Subsp. creticum]. Alyssum sphacioticum (4, 14) Arabidopsis thaliana - Thale Cress (Seen ) Fine gravel [Slender branched herb with white flowers and thin pods]. Arabis alpina - Alpine Rockcress ( 4 ) Cliffs and rocks above 1800m [Low perennial cress with coarse toothed leaves and large (>1cm) white flowers]. Arabis verna - Spring Rockcress ( 2, 9, 12, 14 ) Open rocky areas [Low cress, oval toothed leaves and yellow-eyed purple flowers]. Aubrieta deltoidea - Aubrietia (14 ) Rocky places [Low straggling grey cress with big purple flowers and long-beaked fruit]. Barbarea vulgaris - Common Winter-cress (Seen ) Colouring verges . [Medium-sized cress with yellow flower spikes and pinnate lower leaves. First noted by us in 1996: seems to be new species for Crete; widespread in Europe] Biscutella didyma- Buckler Mustard (2, 5, 7-14 ) Gravel verges and stony land: [Hairy annual with yellow flowers and distinctive pods comprising two joined disks]. Brassica c. cretica - Cretan Cabbage ( 8, 12 ) Gorge cliffs. [Tall cabbage with pale yellow flowers] Cakile maritima - Sea Rocket ( 7 ) Sandy beaches: [Decumbent succulent annual, with pinkish flowers and lanceolate pods] Capsella bursa-pastoris - Shepherd's-purses (2-14 ) Disturbed areas, [Familiar white cress with triangular 23 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563

fruit]. Cardamine graeca- (a bittercress) ( 2 ) Shady rocks [Wide-branched bittercress with 3-lobed leaflets, white flowers and large flattened pods].

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Cardamine hirsuta - Hairy Bittercress ( 2, 3, 8 ) Pathsides: [Short white cress; pinnate leaves; narrow flattened pods]. Cardaria draba- Hoary Pepperwort ( 2-11 ) Verges. [Patch-forming grey perennial, wide Afrothy@ white heads of flowers]. Erophila verna - Early Whitlow-grass ( Seen ). Bare stony ground. [Tiny white cress, all leaves basal and pods ca 6mm. All plants seen are probably E. verna in the strict sense] Eruca sativa Eruca (2, 5, 7, 8, 11, 12 ) Fallow land on Gious Kambos. [Weedy annual with large white flowers veined in purple] Erysimum raulinii- (a wallflower) ( 2 ) Crags. [Similar but more densely tufted. Endemic]. Raphanus raphanistrum - Wild Radish (2) Field-weed [Similar to Eruca, but with jointed fruit] Ricotia cretica - Ricotia (7, 8, 11-14 ) Scree/rubble in gorges. [Low pink cress, distinctive pods like a purple mange-tout. Endemic]. Rorippa nasturtium-aquaticum Water-cress (8 ) Stream/ditches: [Familiar aquatic with pinnate leaves and white flowers]. Sinapis alba - White Mustard (2-13 ) Waste ground: [Coarse yellow mustard, pods with word-like beak]. Sisymbrium officinale - Hedge Mustard (Seen ) Pathsides [Erect yellow cress with pinnately-lobed leaves and pods appressed to stem] Thlaspi perfoliatum - Perfoliate Pennycress (14) Rocks at Omalos, and by Omalos cave. [Small white annual with grey leaves clasping stem].

Cucurbitaceae Bryonia c. cretica White Bryony ( 4, 7, 8, 11-13 ) Scrub/rubble in gorges. [Climber with mottled maple-like leaves opposite tendrils, greenish-white flowers]

Dipsacaceae Knautia integrifolia - (a scabious) ( 7, 8, 11, 12, 14 ) Rocky phrygana. [Tall typical scabious, variable leaves; subsp. mimica]. Lomalosia brachiata - (a scabious) (7, 10 ) Behind shores: [Short scabious with leafy bracts]

Ericaceae Arbutus unedo - Strawberry-tree ( 8 ) Maquis and common in pine woods [Evergreen tree with lanceolate leaves and warty berries] Erica arborea- Tree Heath ( 4, 7, 8, 13, 14 ) [1-4m tall, but otherwise a typical white-flowered heather] Erica manipuliflora- (a heath) ( 2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 14 ) [Shorter species, in fruit, with longer leaves].

Euphorbiaceae Euphorbia acanthothamnos- Greek Spiny-spurge ( 3-14 ) Phrygana, often coastal. [Intricately branched domed, spiny shrubby spurge]. Euphorbia characias - Large Mediterranean Spurge (2-14 ) Scrub and rocky slopes:). [Tall tufted hairy perennial] Euphorbia dendroides - Tree Spurge ( 7-9, 11, 12, 14 ) Rocky slopes. [Thick-stemmed hairless shrub] Euphorbia exigua- Dwarf Spurge (Seen) Moist and bare sites: [Small annual spurge with linear-lanceolate leaves] Euphorbia helioscopia- Sun Spurge ( 2-14 ) Disturbed ground: [Familiar weedy spurge, toothed leaves] Euphorbia paralias- Sea Spurge ( 7 ) Low dunes, [Fleshy greyish perennial, many oblong leaves] Euphorbia peplus- Petty Spurge ( 2-11, 13, 14 ) Damp soil. [Similar to Sun Spurge, but untoothed, smaller]

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Annual Mercury - Mercurialis annua (2-14 ) Olive groves and walls. [Like neat nettle, with erect green spikes] Ricinus communis - Castor Oil Plant (6, 12, 13 ) Waste ground. [Coarse purplish shrub, with palmate leaves].

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Fagaceae Quercus coccifera- Kermes Oak (2-14) Scrub and garigue,[Shrub or tree with evergreen, holly-like leaves]. Quercus ilex- Holm Oak (5, 9, 10, 13) Upper Kotsifou gorge, among pines, Aradena gorge. [Evergreen tree with lanceolate leaves paler (downy) beneath] Quercus ithaburensis- Valonia Oak (2, 5, 7-9) Scattered trees: [Tree with large leaves, lobed with pointed teeth; huge acorn-cup; subsp. macrolepis]. Quercus pubescens- Downy Oak (4, 5, 7-10) Woodland and scrub [Small tree/shrub, typical oak-leaves, downy].

Gentianaceae Blackstonia perfoliata - Yellow-wort (11) Damper or compacted soil in phrygana or under trees; [Greyish erect annual with leaves joined in pairs around stem; subsp. intermedia]. Centaurium pulchellum - Lesser Centaury (3, 6, 11-13) Compacted soil in phrygana [Tiny annual with opposite leaves and rose-pink flowers].

Geraniaceae Erodium cicutarium - Common Stork's-bill (3-8, 10-14) Pathsides and disturbed ground. [Typical stork’s-bill with fern-like leaves, pink flowers and beaked fruit]. Erodium gruinum - Long-beaked Stork=s-bill (3-13) Pathsides. [Large annual with lobed leaves, violet flowers 4cm wide, and very long (6-11cm) fruit] Erodium malacoides- Soft Stork's-bill (6-8, 11, 12) Olive groves. [Like E. cicutarium, but with oblong, slightly-lobed leaves]. Erodium moschatum - Musk Stork's-bill (Seen) Stony ground[Like E. cicutarium, but coarser and aromatic] Geranium columbinum - Long-stalked Crane=s-bill (7, 9, 19) Rocky slopes. [Narrow-lobed palmate leaves; 12-18mm flowers with pink unnotched petals] Geranium dissectum - Cut-leaved Crane's-bill (2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 10-13) Damp soil. [Similar to latter, but with smaller flowers, notched petals] Geranium lucidum - Shining Crane's-bill (2-5, 8, 11, 13) Walls and shady rocks: [Shiny bluntly-lobed palmate leaves, and pink flowers]. Geranium molle - Dove's-foot Crane's-bill (7) Disturbed ground. [Like G. dissectum, but wedge-lobed and with more purplish-pink flowers]. Geranium purpureum - Little Robin (2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 11-14) Shaded rocks. [Aromatic herb with fern-like leaves and unnotched pink petals]. Geranium robertianum Herb Robert (3-14) Geranium rotundifolium - Round-leaved Crane's-bill (2, 7, 9, 12, 13) Groves and waste ground,[Like G. molle, but shallowly-lobed, unnotched petals]

Guttiferae (Hypericaceae) Hypericum empetrifolium - Shrubby St. John's-wort (4, 5, 8, 10, 11, 14) Garigue and phrygana: [Dwarf heather-like shrub with many yellow flowers. Mostly Subsp. oligathum, though the Lefka Ori plants are probably subsp. tortuosum. Both endemic].

Juglandaceae Juglans regia- Walnut 2=-13) Planted. [Trees with fragrant pinnate leaves and coarse catkins].

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Labiatae (Lamiaceae) Ballota nigra - Black Horehound (11-14) Pathsides. [Strongly scented, with coarsely toothed leaves, small purple flowers. Subsp. uncinata]. Ballota pseudodictamnus - False Dittany (11-13) Often abundant on coastal verges. [Woody-based perennial, woolly-felted, oval, almost untoothed leaves] Lamium amplexicaule - Henbit (2-5, 7, 10-14) Disturbed ground:, [Annual pink dead-nettle, long flowers].

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Lavandula stoechas - French Lavender (9) Rocky verges: [Linear-leaved shrub, flower spikes with purple tassel] Marrubium vulgare - White Horehound (6, 11-14) Rough verges. [Like Ballota, but white-downy, small white flowers]. Origanum dictamnus - Dittany (diktamus) (2, 8, 9, 13) Limestone cliffs, mainly in gorges: [White-woolly round-leaved, with overlapping bracts. Endemic] Origanum vulgare - Marjoram (4) Rocky ground: [Typical marjoram, white flowers; subsp. hirtum]. Phlomis cretica - (a Jerusalem Sage) (5, 6) Some of the plants at exposed sites near Anopoli are probably referable to this, rather than the next. [Much shorter and more orange flowers]. Phlomis fruticosa - Jerusalem Sage (2-14) One of typical dominants of rocky slopes: [Grey-felted shrub, with leaves like a sage, and dense heads of 23-35mm long flowers]. Phlomis lanata (6) Prasium majus - Shrubby Woundwort (3-14) Banks in groves etc and on rocks: [Evergreen shrub, with white flowers and aroma similar to a Stachys]. Rosmarinus officinalis - Rosemary (6, 11-13) [Familiar shrub]. Salvia fruticosa - Three-leaved Sage (2-13) Garigue,s (bearing abundant galls). [Typical lilac-flowered shrubby sage with 3-lobed leaves] Salvia verbenaca - Wild Clary (7, 12) Disturbed ground. [Herb with wrinkled leaves, and spike of dense purple whorls]. Salvia viridis - Red-topped Sage (2, 3, 7, 10) Stony land and rocks: [Short neat annual, with bright green bracts]. Satureja nervosa - (a Micromeria) (2, 3, 5-8, 13, 14) Phrygana etc. [Slender shrub, with small-leaves and whorls of purple flowers above B the similar S. juliana possibly overlooked]. Satureja thymbra - Satureja (2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 14) Scrub and phrygana. [Like a large-leaved, very aromatic, pink thyme]. Sideritis curvidens - (no common name) (8) Rock crevices. [Short white annual, with calyx teeth strongly curved]. Stachys cretica - Mediterranean Woundwort (4-11) Rocky slopes, often by roads: [Like a slender white-felted pink ALamb=s-ears@] Teucrium microphyllum- Small-leaved Germander (2, 5, 7) Rocky phrygana, [leaves ca 5mm, white below].

Lauraceae Laurus nobilis- Laurel (4) With Quercus ilex in upper Kotsifou gorge. [Evergreen tree with scented leaves].

Leguminosae (Fabaceae) Acacia sp. - (an acacia) (1-11, 13) Planted by roads. [Shrubs with grey willow-like Aleaves@ and yellow mimosa blooms]. Anagyris foetida- Bean Trefoil 3, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12) Trackside. [Trefoil shrub 1-4m tall and foetid]. Anthyllis vulneraria - Kidney Vetch (3-5, 7, 8, 11-14) Rocky phrygana. [Typical kidney vetch, but here red-flowered subsp. rubriflora]. Astragalus angustifolius- (spiny milk-vetch) (14) Open rocky slopes. [A ‘Vegetable hedgehog’, pinnate leaves with 6-10 pairs of leaflet]. Bituminaria bituminosa - Pitch Trefoil (2, 3, 5-14) Olive groves and verges. [Dull green, often tall trefoil, flower-heads violet-blue, and smelling of bitumen]. Calicotome villosa - Spiny Broom (1-14) Often abundant in garigue. [Like an elegant gorse, scenting the air with honey].

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Ceratonia siliqua - Carob (3-13) Olive groves and scrub. [Evergreen tree with coarse pinnate leaves and big hanging pods]. Cercis siliquastrum - Judas-tree (3-6, 10, 11, 13) Planted: [Small tree, heart-shaped leaves, and pink flowers on stems]. Ebenus cretica - Shrubby Sainfoin (6, 7, 9, 11, 12) Cliffs and steep banks. [Shrub, palmate leaves and silky heads of pink flowers. Endemic]. Genista acanthocloda- (a greenweed) (14) Phrygana. [Similar to Cretan Dwarf-broom, but with tiny leaflets, and coming into flower]. Hippocrepis unsiliquosa (3) Cogged seedpod Hymenocarpos circinnatus - Disk Trefoil ( 2, 5) Similar habitats to last: [Pinnate-leaved; big terminal leaflet, flowers orange-yellow; fruit a toothed disc 1-1.5cm across] Lathyrus cicera (2, 3, 5) - [Brick red vetch with tendrils]. Lathyrus clymenum - (a vetchling) (6-8, 10, 12, 14) Rough grass. [As L. annuus, but with 2-tone flowers (crimson/violet) Lathyrus setifolius - ( a vetchling) (8-10) Tracksides: [Similar but narrow-winged with orange-red flowers]. Lotus creticus - (a bird=s-foot-trefoil) (3) Fallow and clay areas. Lotus edulis - Edible Lotus Mostly coastal rocks and sand: [Typical yellow Lotus with long inflated pod]. Lotus halophilus - (a bird's-foot-trefoil) Beaches. (3) [Annual yellow Lotus with curved pods]. Lotus ornithopodioides - (a bird's-foot-trefoil) (3) Trackside [Differs from last in having pods constricted between seed]. Lotus pedunculatus - Greater Bird's-foot-trefoil (4) By ditch. [Large hairy typical bird=s-foot-trefoil]. Lupinus varias - Hairy Blue Lupin (5, 9, 11, 14) Striking patches by roads, fallow. [Bright blue hairy lupin]. Medicago arabica - Spotted Medick (2, 3, 13) Olive groves and fallow. [Bur-fruited yellow trefoil, dark blotches on leaflet]. Medicago arborea - Tree Medick (3, 4, 6) Naturalised by roads. [Silvery leaved scrub, golden-yellow heads]. Medicago marina - Sea Medick (3, 7) Sandy beaches, low dunes: [White-downy creeping perennial trefoil with yellow heads]. Medicago murex- (a bur medick) (6) Coastal rocks. [Typical yellow medick with dense cylindrical bur fruit]. Medicago orbicularis - Large Disk Medick (5, 6, 12-14) Waysides: [Typical yellow medick with large smooth spiral disc fruit]. Medicago polymorpha - Toothed Medick (3, 6) Pathsides [Weedy yellow medick with long-spined bur fruit]. Onobrychis aequidentata- (a sainfoin) (3, 5-7, 9, 10, 23, 13) ) Phrygana and tracksides: gorge,, quarry [Pinnate-leaved, few pink flowers and fruit with cockscomb crest] Onobrychis caput-gallii- Cockscomb Sainfoin. (Seen) [Similar, flowers smaller and bur fruit]. Ononis natrix - Large Yellow Restharrow (6) Roadsides. [Sticky subshrub whose 1-2cm yellow flowers have red veined standard. Subsp. hispanica] Ononis reclinata - Small Restharrow (13) [Hairy annual with trefoil leaves, winged petiole and pink flowers]. Robinia pseudoacacia - False Acacia (1, 6, 7, 11) Planted/naturalised by coast road etc. [Spiny tree with pinnate leaves, pendent white racemes] Scorpiurus muricatus- Scorpiurus (2, 8) Rocky banks. [Long elliptical undivided leaves, yellow flowers and pods like coiled caterpillars]. Securigera cretica (a crown vetch) (8) Securigera parviflora (12) Securigera securidaca - (a scorpion vetch) (6-8) Rocky ground. [As last but more slender and with yellow

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flowers]. Spartium junceum - Spanish Broom (1-4, 9-11, 13) Roadsides: [Shrub with many rush-like branches and large yellow flowers]. Tetragonolobus purpureus - Dragon's Blood (2-14) Groves and disturbed ground:[Hairy trefoil herb, crimson flowers, big winged pods]. Trifolium arvense - Hare's-foot Clover (Seen) Rocky terraces. [Annual hairy clover, pale pink hare=s-foot heads] Trifolium boissieri - Brown Trefoil (6-9) Rocky slope. [Low annual yellow clover, turning brown with age]. Trifolium campestre - Hop Trefoil (3, 5-14) Rocky places: [As latter, but not going brown] Trifolium fragiferum - Strawberry Clover (3, 5, 7-11) Moister turf of paths. [Creeping clover with pink flowers, and inflated fruit heads, resembling raspberries! ]. Trifolium repens - White Clover (2-14) Phrygana and damp turf. [Familiar clover: creeping, rooting at nodes] Trifolium resupinatum - Reversed Clover (3-8) Sandy ground: [Pink annual clover, flowers are Aupside down@]. Trifolium stellatum - Star Clover (3-14) Stony areas: [Hairy annual clover with round leaflets, globose pink heads, calyx teeth spreading star-like, reddish]. Trifolium tomentosum- Woolly Trefoil (8, 12, 13) Stony turf. [Like T. resupinatum, but flowers Aright way up@, fruit heads like balls of cotton]. Trifolium uniflorum- (no common name) (2-10, 14) Locally common on rocky turf and phrygana: to 1600m. [Mat or cushion-forming perennial, with stalkless white flowers in ones (-3) not heads]. Tripodion tetraphyllum - Bladder Vetch (A, 3, 5-14) Disturbed and open ground. [Prostrate kidney-vetch with inflated fruiting calyces]. Vicia bithynica (7-10) [Small single blue white flowers] Vicia hybrida - Hairy Yellow-vetch 2, 4, 7, 10, 11) Banks in groves and by roads: (especially by spring) and below Viglotopi. [Large yellow-flowered vetch, hairy standard] Vicia lutea - Yellow Vetch (Seen) Waste areas. [Like smaller V. hybrida, but standard hairless and flowers cream]. Vicia sativa - Common Vetch (A, 9, 11-13) Tracksides and fallow: [Familiar pink leafy vetch]. Vicia villosa - Fodder Vetch (Seen) Olive groves. [Like a bright red-purple Tufted Vetch; subsp. varia].

Linaceae Linum arboreum- Shrubby Flax ( 2, 7-9, 11, 12) Limestone gorge cliffs. [Small shrub, spathulate leaves, yellow flowers] Linum bienne- Pale Flax ( 5-9, 11, 12) Roadsides, rough grass: (prostrate). [Slender pale blue flax] Linum strictum - Upright Yellow Flax ( 6 ) Dry phrygana. [Yellow-flowered flax with crowded leaves and spicate inflorescence]. Linum trigynum - (a flax} ( 6 ) Open ground in coastal phrygana: [Small yellow-flowered flax, alternate leaves].

Lythraceae Lythrum junceum - (a loosestrife) ( 2, 10 ) Seasonally wet places, ditches. [Larger often ascending perennial, petals 5-6mm].

Malvaceae Hibiscus rosa-sinensis - Hibiscus ( 6, 7 )Planted along roadsides near Rethymno. [Shrub with irregularly palmately toothed leaves] 31 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563

Lavatera bryoniifolia - Tree Mallow Waste ground, roadsides. [Branched shrub with 3-lobed leaves]. Lavatera cretica - Small Tree-mallow ( 2-5, 9-13 ) Disturbed. [Like Common Mallow, but broad epicalyx lobes]. Malva cretica - Cretan Mallow ( 5, 7, 8, 10, 11 ) Rocks near sea also in gorges (lower Kotsifou, Kourtaliotis and Aradena gorge. [Like a dwarf, delicate Musk Mallow B pale pink flowers] Malva parviflora Least Mallow ( 3, 4, 6 ) Pathsides and ruins. [Usually prostrate mallow with tiny (<1cm) flowers] Malva sylvestris - Common Mallow ( 3-7, 10-14) Roadsides. [Familiar pink-purple biennial/perennial].

Moraceae Ficus carica - Fig. (1-14) [Familiar shrub/tree with large palmately-lobed leaves] Morus alba - White Mulberry ( 4-14) Planted. [Tree with oval and cordate leaves, dense flower spikes]. Myrtaceae Eucalyptus sp. - (a gum) (1-11, 13 ) Planted by roads,. [Large trees with flaking bark, grey leaves] Myrtus communis- Common Myrtle ( 3, 7, 9, 11, 13 ) Streamside thicket; by roads. [Opposite-leaved evergreen aromatic shrub].

Nyctaginaceae Bougainvillea glabra- Bougainvillea. ( 11-13 ) [Familiar ornamental climber with bright purple bracts].

Oleaceae Jasminum species - Jasmine ( 5 plus) Naturalised by ruined church above Faestos and gardens. [Trefoil shrub with yellow flowers] Olea europaea - Olive (1-14) Abundantly cultivated,. [Evergreen tree with greyish narrow leaves]. Phillyrea latifolia- (no common name) (5 ) Rocky gorge scrub. [Resembles a scentless myrtle].

Onagraceae Epilobium hirsutum - Great Hairy Willow-herb ( 5, 8 ) Wet tracksides in lower groves. [Familiar tall hairy herb].

Orobanchaceae Orobanche lavandulacea - Lavender Broomrape ( 5, 6 ) On Pitch Trefoil by road. [Small darkish purple broomrape] Orobanche ramosa - Branched Broomrape ( 3-10, 12-14 ) Olive groves (often on Oxalis pes-caprae):[Small prolific broomrape, with pale purple flowers contrasting with light brown stems].

Oxalidaceae Oxalis pes-caprae - Bermuda Buttercup ( 2-11, 13) Often abundant in olive groves and by roads everywhere, rarely phrygana [Trefoil leaves, and umbels of yellow flowers].

Paeoniaceae Paeonia clusii - Clusius's Peony [Foliage only at café Omalos ).

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Corydalis uniflora - Cretan Corydalis ( 4, 14 ) Sparse on bare clay among stones: 1600-1900m. [Short herb with greyish lobed leaves, whitish flowers tipped in maroon. Endemic]. Fumaria capreolata - Ramping Fumitory (12, 13) Clambering on coarse vegetation by streams etc. [Large fumitory, greyish divided leaves, pale flowers tipped reddish-black] Fumaria macrocarpa - (a fumitory). ( 12 ) [Smaller than latter, pink and with lower petal recurved]. Fumaria officinalis - Common Fumitory ( 12, 13 ) [Typical non-climbing fumitory] Glaucium flavum - Yellow Horned-poppy ( 3, 6-9, 11 ) Coastal rocks and sand [Big grey-leaved poppy with yellow flowers and long pods]. Papaver argemone - Pale Poppy ( 3, 4, 8, 9, 11, 12 ) Gravelly track edge. [Delicate orange poppy with long pod bearing appressed bristles. Subsp. nigrotinctum]. Papaver hybridum - Bristly Poppy ( 2 )Open areas. [Small red poppy with bristly pod]. Papaver purpureomarginatum- ( 12 ) (a long-headed poppy) Waste ground. [Typical long-fruited poppy whose pods have no bristles. Allied to P. dubium]. Papaver rhoeas -(3-14) Corn Poppy Rocky and disturbed ground. [Typical red poppy, sometimes with black blotches, globular pods].

Plantaginaceae Plantago afra - (a plantain) ( 5, 7, 8, 10, 13 ) Pathsides: to 1500m; coastal rock and sand. [Typical plantain flowers, but branched leafy stem] Plantago bellardii- (a plantain) ( 3 ) Open ground. [Annual plantain, with several short stems]. Plantago coronopus - (2-6, 9-12 ) Plantago cretica - Cretan Plantain ( 3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 14 ) Seashores and rocks. [Similar to latter but with stems thickening and recurved in fruit]. Plantago lagopus - Hare's-foot Plantain ( 3 ) Rocky ground. [Like hairy more toothed Ribwort, soft silky heads]. Plantago lanceolata - Ribwort Plantain ( 3, 4, 6-14 ) Olive groves and grasslands. [Familiar plantain]

Platanaceae Platanus orientalis- Plane Tree ( 1-11, 13, 14 ) Lining streams/rivers, forming groves: [Tree with alternate palmate leaves, scaling bark].

Plumbaginaceae Acantholimon ulicinum- (no common name)"Vegetable hedgehog" ( 5, 6 ) zone on rock slopes [Differs from other components of zone in its linear spiny leaves] Limonium graecum- (a sea-lavender) (3 ) Cliff edges. [Spathulate basal leaves and branched inflorescence, several sterile branches]

Polygalaceae Polygala venulosa- Eastern Milkwort Phrygana. [Typical milkwort, with pale mauve veined flowers, rather pea-like].

Polygonaceae Rumex bucephalophorus - Bull's-head Dock ( 5, 7, 9, 13 ) Rocky. [Small annual, distinctive recurved fruit; subsp. gallicus].

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Anagallis arvensis - Scarlet Pimpernel ( 3-13 ) Phrygana and fallow land. [Familiar weed]. Anagallis coerulea- Blue Pimpernel ( 2-14 ) Similar habitat [As latter but bright blue]. Cyclamen creticum -Cretan Cyclamen ( 4, 7-10, 14 ) Shade, scree and crevices. [White cyclamen. Some of the non-flowering plants in the Kotsifou resemble C. graecum]. Primula vulgaris - Primrose (14) Samolus valerandi - Brookweed (3 )ditch-bank. [Like white cress, but 5 petals].

Punicaceae Punica granatum - Pomegranate ( 4, 11, 14) ?Naturalised (presumably originally planted). [Tree with shiny opposite untoothed leaves]

Ranunculaceae Anemone coronaria - Crown Anemone ( 2-7, 10, 12-14 )[Distinguished from Turban Buttercup by absence of green sepals] Anemone hortensis- (an anemone) ( 2-11, 14 )Frequent on phrygana and rocky places: Spili, Gious Kambos, below Viglotopi, Kotsifou gorge and Drimiskos pass. [Short anemone, white flushed pink; subsp. heldreichii]. Clematis cirrhosa -Virgin's Bower ( 2-11) Rocky places: [Typical Clematis, but evergreen and in fruit]. Delphinium staphisagria - (a delphinium) ( 11, 12 ) Abundant in the ruins and groves at Aradena, rarer in the gorge. [Typical hairy delphinium]. Nigella damascena - Love-in-a-mist ( 6, 11, 13 ) Grassy terraces [Typical pale blue Nigella]. Ranunculus asiaticus -Turban Buttercup ( 3-9, 11, 14 ) Drifts of white on phrygana and rocky road-sides. [The only big white or red buttercup here, red separated from Anemone by presence of green sepals].

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Ranunculus bullatus -(a buttercup) (4, 5, ) Open areas within phrygana. [All leaves basal, ovate and warty] Ranunculus creticus- Cretan Buttercup (2, 8, 12-14 ) Cliffs (often shady) of gorges [Big buttercup with shallowly lobed leaves, mostly in fruit]. Ranunculus ficaria - Lesser Celandine ( 2, 5, 8, 14 )By ditches [Familiar plant, but big-flowered subsp. chrysocephalus]. Ranunculus gracilis- (a buttercup) ( 8, 10, 12 ) Abundant in rocky phrygana[Neat buttercup, leaves 3-lobed (mostly basal), sepals recurved]. Ranunculus muricatus - Bristly Buttercup ( 2, 9 )Wet ruts and ditch edges: ([Hairless annual, with shallow-lobed leaves and fruit with spines on both surfaces].

Resedaceae Reseda alba -White Mignonette ( 6, 10, 11 ) Roadsides [Typical tall mignonette with white flowers]. Reseda lutea- Wild Mignonette ( 6 ) Rocky ground. [As latter, shorter and pale yellow flowers].

Rhamnaceae Rhamnus alaternus -Mediterranean Buckthorn Scrub ( Seen ) [Evergreen shrub with glossy thick leaves and reddish berries]. Rhamnus lycioides- (a buckthorn) ( 4 ) Cliffs, rocky garigue: [Densely branched spiny shrub to 1m, yellow-green flowers; subsp. oleoides].

Rosaceae Crataegus monogyna- Hawthorn ( 2-9, 11, 13, 14 )By streams and in woodland: [Familiar shrub, but here the densely hairy subsp. azarella]. Eriobotrya japonica- Loquat ( 2-12 ) Planted [Robust shrub, large (to 30cm) ribbed and brown-felted leaves], Prunus domestica -Wild Plum ( 12, 13 ) ?Naturalised. [Familiar fruit tree] Prunus dulcis - Almond ( Seen ) ?Naturalised by roads. [Spiny shrub with narrow leaves, pale flowers and oval velvety fruit] Prunus persica - Peach ( Seen ) ?Naturalised. [Familiar fruit tree]. Prunus prostrata -Prostrate Cherry ( 4, 14 ) Frequent on rocky upper slopes of 1500-1900m [Prostrate shrub, with bright pink flowers] Pyrus communis - Pear ( 2-14 ) Naturalised on roadside. [Familiar orchard tree]. Pyrus spinosa -Almond-leaved Pear ( Seen ) Rocky slopes and woodland: (also in pine grove), by tracks above Anopoli to 1300m and around Omalos plain. [Somewhat spiny shrub with narrow elliptical leaves, white flowers]. Rubus sanctus -Bramble ( 2, 3, 7, 8, ) Scrub, stream-banks:[Typical bramble, but with small trefoil leaves]. Sanguisorba cretica -(a burnet) (11 ) Limestone cliff in Aradena gorge. [Typical burnet but with leaflets 2.5-3cm. Endemic]. Sanguisorba minor -Salad Burnet ( 2, 4, 6-8 14 )Grass slopes and olive groves. [Familiar herb, represented by subspp. muricata and verrucosa] Sarcopoterium spinosum -Spiny Burnet ( 2-14) Often dominant in phrygana: [Intricate spiny shrub (A barbed wire plant@), pinnate leaves, globose flower-heads].

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Rubiaceae Asperula taygetea ( 8 ) Galium aparine - Cleavers ( 2, 4-7, 12 ) . [Familiar coarse clambering weed]. Rubia peregrina - Wild Madder (6-8 )Climbing on bushes in scrub: [Like a coarse evergreen cleavers with berries].

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Sherardia arvensis - Field Madder ( 2, 5, 7, 8, 11 ) Disturbed ground. [Like a compact bedstraw with pink flowers]. Valantia aprica - (no common name) ( 3-5, ) Trackside rubble 1800-1900m. [Like next but more slender, yellowish flowers]. Valantia hispida- Valantia Rocks:, gorges), ( 3, 7, 8, 11-14 ) coastal rocks at. [Like a tiny bristly crosswort]. Valantia muralis - (no common name) ( Possibly the name for the above Valantias) Open phrygana. [Similar to last, but more softly hairy, fruit stalked Ahorned@]

Rutaceae Ruta chalepensis - Fringed Rue ( 3 ) Rough ground. [Two-pinnate blue-green leaves, pungently scented with yellow flowers, fringed with hairs].

Salicaceae Populus alba - White Poplar ( Seen) Populus nigra - Black Poplar ( 2-11, 13, 14 ) By stream planted?. [Tall tree with fluttering leaves shaped like ace of spades] Populus tremula- Aspen Planted. ( 2-12, 14 ) [Medium-sized tree with roundish leaves, slender stalks].

Santalaceae Osyris alba - Osyris ( 6-10, 14 ) Often common in rocky sites. [Broom-like shrub, with three-lobed yellowish flowers and narrow leaves - usually short but up to 2m tall in places].

Saxifragaceae Saxifraga chrysosplenifolia - (a saxifrage) ( 12, 14 ) Shaded gorge rocks[Round-leaved saxifrage, white flowers, spotted yellow or red]. Saxifraga hederacea -(a saxifrage) Common in crevices among ruins. ( 2, 4, 9-12, 14 ) [Slender herb with single white flower and rather ivy-like leaves].

Scrophulariaceae Bellardia trixago Bellardia (2, 4-9, 11) Rough grass: coastal sand. [Erect opposite-leaved annual; 4-sided spike of white flowers flushed pink/yellow] Cymbalaria muralis - Ivy-leaved Toadflax (2-11 ) Walls [Trailing plant with ivy-like leaves; spurred violet and yellow flowers]. Linaria pelisseriana - Jersey Toadflax (6-9, 12-14) Stony ground and fallow: [Delicate erect toadflax, purple-violet flowers] Misopates orontium - Weasel's-snout (7, 10 ) Rough ground. [Slim annual pink snapdragon]. Parentucellia latifolia - (a bartsia) (2-5, 9-12, 14 )Bare areas in phrygana: [Short erect herb, opposite leaves, red-purple flowers]. Parentucellia viscosa- Yellow Bartsia (2, 7, 10, 11, 14 ) Damp ground: fields [Sticky hairy erect herb, with opposite leaves and yellow flowers]. Scrophularia lucida - (a figwort) Banks. ( 5, 8, 9, 11, 12 ) [Typical figwort flowers, but pinnately-lobed leaves]. 37 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563

Scrophularia peregrina - Nettle-leaved Figwort ( 2,4, 5, 8, 9, 11, 12 ) Pathsides. [Typical figwort, shiny nettle-like leaves] Verbascum arcturus - (a mullein) ( 2, 7, 8, 11-13 ) Cliffs in gorges). [Lower leaves lobed (densely soft-hairy), short spikes of yellow flowers, violet filament hairs. Endemic]. Verbascum macrurum - (a mullein) (2-4, 6-8, 10-14 ) Stony ground [Typical mullein, with ovate leaves and tall spikes].

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Verbascum sinuatum -Wavy-leaved Mullein (2, 4-8, 10-14) Pathsides. [Differs from other mulleins in pinnately lobed undulate leaves]. Verbascum spinosum -Spiny Mullein ( 11-14) Gorges and phrygana[Small spiny domed shrub with narrow white-downy, toothed to lobed leaves. Endemic]. Veronica anagallis-aquatica- Blue Water-Speedwell ( Seen) Ditch side. [Tall speedwell, hairless with spikes of blue flowers]. Veronica arvensis -Wall Speedwell ( Seen) Open soil: pine grove. [Small erect annual with oval leaves and tiny blue flowers] Veronica cymbalaria -White Speedwell ( 2, 4, 7-9, 11, 12, 14 ) Paths/walls [Decumbent annual, lobed leaves and white flowers]. Veronica persica -Common Field-speedwell ( Seen ) Groves. [Familiar annual weed]

Solanaceae Hyoscyamus albus- White Henbane ( 11 ) Nutrient-rich margins and goat-frequented overhangs and in Kourtaliotis gorge. [Irregularly lobed leaves, greenish-white flowers with purple throat]. Mandragora autumnalis -Mandrake ( 3, 4, 6-8, ) Rocky turf. [Violet flowers on stalks in centre of big crinkly rosettes]. Nicotiana glauca - Shrub Tobacco ( 6, 13 ) Naturalised by roads [Tall slender shrub, with scattered glaucous leaves and tubular yellow flowers].

Styracaceae Styrax officinalis -Storax ( 4, 9, 13 ) Scrub:[Shrub with alternate oval leaves, and pendant fragrant white flowers just opening].

Tamaricaceae Tamarix parviflora -(a tamarisk) ( 3, 4, 13 ) Stony verges and stream banks: [Shrub with scale like leaves, and white spikes]. Tamarix smyrnensis - (a tamarisk) ( 3, 6-9) Probably always planted: on beach at Plakias (most pollarded 1999/2000), recently planted on Triopetra beach. [Flowers would be 5-lobed (not 4) and pink - none seen].

Theligonaceae Theligonum cynocrambe -Theligonum (Seen) Damp crevices, walls and waste sites: [Hairless foetid annual, swollen nodes, opposite untoothed leaves, sheathing stipules].

Thymelaeaceae Daphne sericea - (no common name). ( 23, 10, 13 )[Short dense evergreen shrub, crowded evergreen leaves; fragrant pink flowers]. Thymelaea hirsuta - (no common name) ( 6, 7, 11 ) Rocky hills: [1m shrub, white stems, scale-leaves (white-downy within)]. Thymelaea tartonraira - (no common name) ( 5, 8, 12 ) Limestone phrygana. [Small shrub with many silvery 39 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563

oblong leaves, and clusters of yellowish flowers; subsp. argentea]

Ulmaceae Zelkova abelicea - Zelkova ( 14 ) Rocky slopes above Omalos plain. [Large shrub with small coarsely lobed leaves. Endemic].

Umbelliferae (Apiaceae) Apium graveolens Wild Celery ( 5 ) [Yellow-green biennial, with broad segments to the divided leaves and a strong celery smell]. Apium nodiflorum Fool's Watercress ( 2, 8 ) Ditches [Singly pinnate leaves, rooting at nodes; umbels stalkless] Conium maculatum Hemlock (5) . [Tall hairless umbellifer with fine-divided leaves; purple-spotted stems]. Crithmum maritimum Cliff Samphire (7) Coastal slopes (rocks and walls): Plakias, . [Succulent 1-2 pinnate leaves; perennial] Daucus carota Wild Carrot ( 3, 4, 6-9, 11 ) Grass roadside [Familiar herb, divided bracts, bur fruit; subsp. maxima]. Eryngium campestre Field Eryngo ( 2-12, 14 ) Phrygana. [Wide branched greenish spiny perennial, heads 10-15mm] Eryngium maritimum Sea Holly ( 7, 11) Low dunes [Stiff leathery and spiny blue-green perennial] Ferula communis Giant Fennel ( 1-13 ) Roadsides and abandoned land: [Striking big herb with feathery leaflets and many yellow umbels]. Lecokia cretica (no common name) ( 4, 9, 14 ) Woods, groves and moist waysides: [Robust perennial with 1-2 pinnate triangular leaves; large warty asymmetric fruit]. Oenanthe pimpinelloides Callous-fruited Water-dropwort ( 2, 4, 7-11, 13 ) Ditch/stream edges, seasonally wet turf, fallow: [White perennial with parts of umbel distinct from one another]. Orlaya daucoides (no common name) ( 8 ) Rocky verges. [Erect annual with bur fruit and outer petals much bigger than the inner]. Pseudorlaya pumila (no common name) (7, 8, 10 ). [Rather like Daucus guttatus, but much more densely hairy]. Scandix pecten-veneris Shepherd=s-needle ( 3-14 ) Disturbed or cultivated sites, Rough grass: [Stout widely branched with divided glossy leaves and rounded umbels of yellow green flowers]. Smyrnium olusatrum - Alexanders (2, 3, 6-11 ) Smyrnium perfoliatum Perfoliate Alexanders ( 2-11 ) Grass: by stream [Differs in brighter yellow flowers; upper leaves simple, oval and clasping]. Tordylium apulum (a hartwort) ( 2-10, 12, 14 ) Disturbed ground:[Annual with singly pinnate leaves, outer petal much larger; fruit disk-like with beaded margin (A ‘false-teeth plant’)]. Torilis nodosa Knotted Bur-parsley ( 8 ) Rocks [Similar but usually prostrate, with almost stalkless umbels].

Urticaceae Parietaria cretica Cretan Pellitory ( Seen ) Often common on sheltered cliff ledges:; also with next on walls in Spili. [Spreading annual, alternate le Pellitory-of-the-wall aves <15mm] Parietaria judaica Walls and rocks. ( 2-11 ) [Similar perennial, with leaves 1-7cm long]. Urtica pilulifera Roman Nettle (9, 11, 12 ) Caves, ledges, areas frequented by goats: [Annual with jagged 40 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563

toothed leaves, globular fruiting heads and stinging hairs].

Valerianaceae Centranthus calcitrapae (no common name) ( 12 ) Rocky ground, especially below cliffs. [Annual, opposite pinnately-divided leaves; pink-purple flowers, pouched at base]. Centranthus ruber Red Valerian ( Seen ) Naturalised on ruins and walls. [Familiar garden plant, with undivided leaves]. Valeriana asarifolia Cretan Valerian (2-6, 8-10, 14 ) Limestone cliffs/crevices. [White valerian, basal leaves kidney-shaped; flower-head dense. Endemic] Valerianella coronata (a corn-salad). (3, 5-8, 12 ) [Regularly branched annual, narrow leaves, globose inflorescence, calyx regularly 6-lobed]. Valerianella discoidea - (a corn-salad) (Seen) Rocky edges of track: groves. [As latter, fruit with up to 12 lobes]. Valerianella echinata (a corn-salad) (13 ) Rocky ground: Fourfouras and track to Kakovoli 1200-1400m. [As latter, calyx with 3 lobed B one long and two short].

Verbenaceae Lantana comosa Lantana ( 6, 8, 11-13 ) Naturalised on verges along the main north coast road [Scrambling prickly shrub with oval leaves and heads of orange and yellow flowers]. Vitex agnus-castus Chaste-tree ( 6, 11, 12 ) Damp gullies; also on seepage clay [Aromatic scrub and opposite digitate leaves, and fruiting spikes like peppercorns].

Violaceae Viola cretica Cretan Violet ( 9 ) Shade by stream and wall. [Typical small violet., very fragrant Endemic].

Vitaceae Vitis vinifera Common Vine (3, 4, 6-14 ) Naturalised in groves and hedges. [Familiar climber]

MONOCOTYLEDONES

Agavaceae Agave americana Century Plant (3-14 ) Naturalised on roadsides and along north coast. [Huge rosettes of grey spear-shaped leaves and last year=s tall stems bearing saucer-sized heads]

Amaryllidaceae Narcissus tazetta Polyanthus Narcissus ( 2, 11) [Typical daffodil leaves and several-fruited stems] Pancratium maritimum Sea Daffodil ( 3, 7, 11 ) Coastal sands[Grey daffodil leaves].

Araceae Arisarum vulgare Friar's Cowl (2, 7-10) Rock ledges: [Patch-forming with heart-shaped leaves and spadix under a hooded spathe]. 41 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563

Arum concinnatum Large Cuckoo Pint ( 3-5, 9 ) Olive groves and gorge woodland. [Like big Cuckoo Pint]. Arum creticum Cretan Arum ( 4, 8 ) Rock, scree, stone-heaps. [As latter but with yellow spadix and spathe -this folded backward]. Arum ideaum Cretan Mountain Arum ( 4, 13 ) Psilloritis and Omalos cave. [Like Cuckoo Pint Endemic]. Dracunculus vulgaris Dragon Arum ( 2, 4-6, 11, 12, 14 ) Olive groves and disturbed rocky ground. [Purple-striped stems, digitally divided leaves, long purple spathe]. Zantedeschia aethiopica Arum-lily (2-10 ) Naturalised [Familiar garden plant].

Cyperaceae Carex flacca Glaucous Sedge (5) Damp ground. [Glaucous leaves; distinct male and female spikes; subsp. serrulata]. Carex pendula Pendulous Sedge (Seen) Shady ditch/stream banks. [Big tufted sedge, with distinct female and male spikes, both long and pendulous]. Cyperus longus Galingale (Seen) With Pendulous Sedge, but where sunnier and in water, [Tall with triangular stems and ‘umbels’@ of clustered flat spikelets]. Eleocharis palustris Common Spike-rush ( A) Marsh. [Bed-forming, leafless stems with terminal spike] Schoenus nigricans Black Bog-rush (Seen) Marks seepage, often on clay slopes:[Densely tufted, blackish heads with long bract].

Dioscoreaceae Tamus communis Black Bryony ( 8, 9 ) Shaded gorge-beds/gullies. [Unarmed climber with cordate leaves].

Gramineae (Poaceae) Aegelops neglecta ( 7 ) Agrostis stolonifera Creeping Bent ( Seen) Ditch-margins,. [Creeping, mat-forming grass with flat leaves; bent base to stem]. Aira elegantissima (a hair-grass) ( Seen ) Bare areas in phrygana. [Delicate annual grass with open flower-head] Ammophila arenaria Marram-grass ( 3, 7 ) Low dunes. [Familiar dune-binder; subsp. arundinacea] Anthoxanthum odoratum Sweet Vernal-grass ( Seen ) Range of habitats. [Familiar spiked grass with taste of new mown hay] Arundo donax Giant Reed ( 2-7 ) Naturalised by roads and ditches. [Bamboo-like to 6m] Avena barbata Bearded Wild-oat ( Seen ) Rocky/rough ground. [Typical wild oat, two short and one long awn per spikelet] Avena sterilis Winter Wild-oat ( 6, 7 ) Fallow/waste ground. [As last, but 1 long awn only]. Briza maxima Large Quaking-grass (6 ) Disturbed areas: [Short annual with a few 14-25mm pendulous spikelets]. Briza minor - Small Quaking-grass ( Seen ) Cynosurus echinatus Rough Dog's-tail ( 3 ) Disturbed ground. [Annual with oval spike, prickly and one-sided] Cynodon digitata ( Seen ) Dactylis glomerata Cock's-foot ( Seen ) Phrygana. [Branched 1-sided flower-head of oval spikelets, flat shoots; subsp. hispanica]. 42 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563

Hyparrhenia hirta (no common name) ( Seen ) Rocky places: [Tufted perennial with spikelets in finger-like pairs]. Lagurus ovatus Hare's-tail ( 3, 6, 7 ) Widespread, especially coastal rocks and sand [Distinctive hairy annual with dense soft, woolly oval flower-head with long awns]. Lolium perenne Perennial Rye-grass ( Seen ) Compact sands [Familiar grass with shiny leaves and spike-like flower-head]. Phalaris minor (a canary-grass). ( seen ) [Differs in its oval head]. Phragmites australis Reed Ditches. [Familiar tall broad-leaved grass with persistent canes]. Poa annua Meadow-grass (2, 3 ) Damper paths in shade. [Weedy annual with branched flower-head and crinkled leaves; plants in the last site approached P. infirma]. Poa bulbosa Bulbous Meadow-grass ( 2, 4, 7 ) Rocky places. [Tufted perennial with narrow leaves and branched heads, spikelets sprouting (Viviparous)]. Sesleria doerfleri (a grass) ( Seen ) Ledges in Kotsifou gorge. [Tufted perennial with stiff leaves, 2-3cm oval pale spikes. Endemic]. Vulpia ciliata Bearded Fescue (Seen ) Rocks, sands and fallow. [Short annual, erect 1-sided panicle, long awns].

Iridaceae Crocus sieberi (a crocus) ( 4, 14 ) Stony ground [Typical white crocus, purple streaked outside; narrow leaves with white midrib. Only leaves seen Endemic]. Freesia refracta Freesia (Seen ) Possibly naturalised. [Familiar ornamental with spikes of scented bell-shaped flowers and linear leaves]. Gladiolus italicus Field Gladiolus ( 2-14 ) Olive groves and fallow. [Typical large pink-purple gladiolus. Plants in rocky phrygana at last site have stamen features etc of G. byzantinus B unknown on Crete]. Moraea (Gynandiris) sisyrinchium Barbary-nut ( 2-13 ) Common (compact clay among rock);. [Blue Iris-like flowers, opening in sun; leaves narrow and sheathing stem] Iris (Hermodactylus) tuberosus Widow Iris ( 2, 3, 7, 9, 14 ) Fallow and scrubby banks,. [Iris-like flowers, yellow-green with blackish blotch on falls; leaves quadrangular. All in fruit]. Iris albicans White Iris ( 4, 8, 9, 11 ) Around cultivation and cemeteries in villages. [Typical large iris, always with white flowers]. Iris cretensis Cretan Iris (2, 5,10, 12,) Rocky phrygana [Compact purple iris with yellow blotches; Endemic]. Iris pseudacorus - Yellow Flag Iris ( 13 ) Romulea bulbocodium Romulea (2-4) Compacted clay (paths etc): and moist pans and paths, Viglotopi. [Small, crocus-like; white flowers have a yellow throat; leaves narrow-linear].

Liliaceae Allium nigrum (a garlic) ( 4, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13 ) Fallow on Omalos plain. [Similar to last, but leaves all basal and narrower, and pale heads]. Allium roseum Rosy Garlic ( 9 ) Moister sites, often in shade. [Low garlic with grass-like leaves and loose heads of rosy-pink flowers]. Allium subhirsutum (a garlic) (3, 6, 8, 9, ) Rocky areas and phrygana. [Grass-like leaves with sparse hairs and umbels of white flowers].

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Asparagus aphyllus (an asparagus) (2, 3, 5, 7-9, 11, 12, 14 ) Olive groves and phrygana: [Scrambling branched woody perennial, thorny Aleaves@ (actually branches); subsp. orientalis]. Asphodeline lutea Yellow Asphodel ( 2, 3, 5-14 ) Phrygana:[Similar to last, but with stiffer leaves and stout yellow spikes]. Asphodelus aestivus Common Asphodel ( 2-14 ) Phrygana and fallow. [Stout branched candelabra head of pinkish-white flowers]. Colchicum macrophyllum (an autumn crocus) (Seen) Fallow terraces. [Rosettes of large corrugated leaves, with a fruit capsule hidden at their base]. Drimia maritima Sea Squill ( 2-14 ) Rocky phrygana. [Rosettes of large leathery leaves emerging from a big exerted bulb B Adog onion@]. Fritillaria messanensis (a fritillary) ( 2, 10 ) Local below cliffs Plakias headland, Very common on rocky phrygana on parts of Gious Kambos. [Typical slender fritillary with linear leaves and nodding brownish flowers, usually mottled/chequered]. Gagea chrysantha ( 4, 14 ) Stony snow-melt at 1800m on Kakovoli, and with latter, Xiloskalon. [Similar, but true yellow, and broader leaves]. Gagea graeca Greek Star-of-Bethlehem ( 2, 4-13) Common in rock crevices, phrygana and bare soil. [Slender erect perennial, several linear leaves; 3-5 white flowers, often nodding]. Muscari comosum Tassel Hyacinth ) ( 3-10, 12-14 Widespread in rocky phrygana and roadsides: [Spike of pale brown tubular flowers with cream teeth, and prominent bright violet terminal tassel]. Muscari spreitzenhoferi (a tassel hyacinth) ( 3, 7, 10-12 ) Rock-crevices near the [Similar to latter, but shorter, teeth of fertile flowers yellow, and tiny terminal tassel]. Ornithogalum divergens (a star-of-Bethlehem) ( 2-8, 10-13 ) Fallow and open land: [Typical white star-of-Bethlehem with widely-branched corymb of 1cm flowers]. Ornithogalum exscapum (a star-of-Bethlehem) ( 7, 8 ) Clay areas. [Similar, widely branched from base, flowers much bigger]. Ornithogalum narbonense (a star-of-Bethlehem) ( 3, 6, 8 ) Dry stony slopes:[Elongate white spikes of white star-like flowers] Ruscus aculeatus Butcher's Broom ( 8, 9 ) Shaded or sheltered gorge) and other rock crevices. [Low evergreen shrub with lanceolate spine-tipped ‘leaves’ (branches)]. Scilla nana Cretan Squill ( 4, 14 )Frequent on recent snow-lie 1700-1900m on Kakovoli (flowering at 1800m+) and at 1600m above Xiloskalon [Low delicate squill with pale-blue star-like flowers, fading whitish. Endemic] Smilax aspera Common Smilax ( 2-5, 7, 8, 11 ) Clambering on scrub. [Cordate leaves with some prickles on leaves, stalks and/or stems]. Tulipa bakeri Baker=s Tulip ( 13, 14 ) Abundant Omalos fallow. [Similar to T. saxatilis (from which possibly not distinct) but smaller darker flowers. Endemic]. Tulipa cretica Cretan Tulip (5, 7 ) Drimiskos pass (notably "slag-heap" knoll); also on rocks by foot-tunnel mouth, Plakias. (Possibly on Kakovoli). [Small white tulip, yellowish base to petals and wavy leaves. Endemic]. Tulipa doerfleri Orange Tulip (2, 9, 10) Often common in cultivated and fallow fields on Gious Kambos,. [Orange-red tulip; linear-lanceolate leaves. Endemic]. Tulipa saxatilis Rock Tulip ( 2, 12 ) Knoll on Gious Kambos. [Pink tulip with white-edged yellow base to petals and rather oblong leaves].

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Orchidaceae Aceras anthropophorum Man Orchid ( 2, 5, 10 ) Frequent on phrygana [Greenish yellow flower-spikes, edged in red B no spur, lip Aanthropoid@] Anacamptis pyramidalis Pyramidal Orchid ( 6-10, 13 ) Widespread in phrygana, locally scrub. [Dense pink spikes with long thin spur, deeply 3-lobed lip; narrow leaves]. Himantoglossum (Barlia) robertiana Giant Orchid (2, 3, 5-10 ) Light shade, and lusher phrygana [Stout and fragrant, with many greenish-purple flowers]. Dactylorhiza romana Roman Orchid ( 8 ) On edge of coniferous woodland and maquis west of Aghios Ioannis. [Typical Amarsh-orchid@ with rose-pink flowers]. Himantoglossum samariense - Lizard orchid ( 5 ) Limodorum abortivum Violet Bird's-nest Orchid. ( 5 ) [Purplish saprophyte with scale-like leaves]. Orchis intacta (Neotinea maculata) ( pos 2) Dense-flowered Orchid Locally frequent in phrygana [Small, dense spike of tiny greenish white flowers; stem and leaves spotted/streaked] Ophrys bombyliflora Bumble-bee Orchid ( 2, 5-10 ) Often gregarious in phrygana. [Round right green sepals and brown very furry lip]. Ophrys candica (a spider orchid) (7 ) Rare, grassier phrygana: [Like square-lipped Late Spider Orchid, wide white edge to speculum, and no/tiny ‘horns’]. Ophrys cretica ssp ariadnae (doerfleri) (2-6, 9, 10 ) Cretan Bee Orchid Common in phrygana, old terraces and groves. [Sepals green (or rose-tinted below); lip marked (or speculum outlined) in white]. Ophrys fleischmannii ( 14 ) [Lip long grey hairs and pronounced W marking] Ophrys fusca ssp. creberrima (2 ) Ophrys fusca ssp cressa ( 3 ) Ophrys fusca ssp creticola ( 2 ) Ophrys fusca ssp fusca ( 2, 3, 9, 10, 13 ) . Ophrys heldreichii Cretan Woodcock Orchid ( 2, 3, 5-11, 13 ) Phrygana. Also in shade. [Distinguished from all other pale pink-sepalled Ophrys by its deeply three-lobed labellum, the central lobe long-ovate]. Ophrys holoserica Late Spider Orchid [See also O. minoa]. subsp. holoserica Mainly phrygana: [Pink-sepalled, square lip with hairs flattened in lower half]. Ophrys episcopalis (holoserica subsp. maxima) - ( 2, 5, 7-9 ) Ophrys iricolor Rainbow Orchid ( 2, 5, 6, 10 ) Phrygana [Like large O. fusca whose labellum is 14-26mm and strongly red or purple underneath]. Ophrys phyganae (l. lutea) Yellow Bee Orchid ( 2-10, 14 ) [Green sepals, labellum oblong, 14-18mm long, broad yellow margin labellum angled at base and subhorizontal or even pendant]]. Ophrys mammosa (a spider orchid) ( 6, 7, 9, 14 )[Striking, with bicoloured lateral sepals and large velvety labellum]. Ophrys omegaifera ssp omegaifera - (a dull Ophrys) ( 2, 3, 10 ) [Clear * mark on pale brown labellum]. Ophrys sicula Lesser Yellow Bee Orchid ( 2-10, 13, 14 ) [Differs from O. phyganae in subhorizontal labellum 8-14mm long, often with inverted purple V in yellow margin]. Ophrys sitiaca ( 5, 10 ) ( I think that these should have been Orchis anatolica ssp sitiaca) Ophrys sphegodes subsp. cretensis Early Spider Orchid ( 2, 3, 5-7, 9, 10 ) Phrygana: [Green sepals, square labellum 6-9mm. Endemic]. Ophrys sphegodes subsp. gortynia ( 6 )Similar habitats to latter: [Differs from latter in labellum 9-13mm long and deep brown-black. Endemic]. 45 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563

Ophrys spruneri ssp. grigoriana (11-14) Ophrys spruueri ssp spruneri Grecian Spider Orchid ( 11-14) Rare in phrygana. [Exquisite! Rose pink sepals, bright blue speculum on brown-black labellum]. Ophrys tenthredinifera - Sawfly Orchid . ( 2, 5-7, 9, 10, 14 )[Round pale pink sepals, and large square labellum with a wide straw-yellow margin. Plants with little or no pink colour (Achlorantha@) occasional]. Orchis a. anatolica -Anatolian Orchid ( 5, 10 ) Not common in phrygana. [Long purple spikes, flowers with long narrow spur and labellum with two rows of dark spots]. Orchis anatolica subsp. sitiaca ( 5, 10, 14 ) open phrygana. [Differs in pale pink flowers, with a green blotch on lateral sepals. Endemic] Anacamptis (Orchis) boryi Bory's Orchid ( 2, 5, 7 )( Grassy phrygana,. [Resembles large Green-winged Orchid, upper flowers opening first] Anacamptis (Orchis) collina Fan-lipped Orchid ( 3, 5-9, 13 )Grassy phrygana: [Few flowered spikes, olive-brown flowers, pink centre to labellum]. Anacamptis (Orchis coriophora ) fragrans Fragrant Bug Orchid (grass: groves, quarry (by road and steppe). [Narrow fragrant spikes, Ahelmet@ brownish, lip narrow 3-lobed. Subsp. fragrans]. Orchis italica Italian Man Orchid (2-10, 13, 14) Frequent and often gregarious in phrygana, grassy areas and old terraces. [Large bright pink spikes, labellum of each flower with long thin lobes]. Neotinea (Orchis) lactea Milky Orchid ( 2, 5, 9 )Phrygana. [Dense milky white spikes, with many pink spots; sepals with some green, notably at base] Anacamptis (Orchis) laxiflora Lax-flowered Orchid ( 2, 5, 9, 11-13 ) Mostly in damp seepage areas. [Long purple spikes, leafy stems.]. Anacamptis (Orchis) papilionacea ssp. albertis ( 2, 3, 5, 7-9, 13 ) Pink Butterfly Orchid Often frequent in phrygana etc. [Distinctive few-flowered spike, large pink flowers with darker pink lines] Orchis pauciflora Few-flowered Orchid ( 2, 3, 5, 6, 9, 10 ) Frequent in open phrygana. [Spikes of 3-7 yellow flowers, labellum brighter yellow]. Orchis provincialis Provence Orchid ( 5 ) Spikes by track from Mourne to the sea and at >slag heap= crossroads. [Differs from last in its spike of 5-20 uniform pale yellow flowers, and spotted leaves. Orchis quadripunctata Four-spotted Orchid ( 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, 10, 13 ) Carpeting open phrygana and soil-pockets in rocks, [Often tiny, flowers small, usually pink with 2-6 small spots in centre of labellum. White plants on Psiloritis and elsewhere]. Orchis simia Monkey Orchid ( 5, 6, 9 )Mostly in fruit in scrub and grassier sites [Dense spikes, flowers with grey-pink ‘helmet’@, labellum like dark purple dancing monkey]. Orchis tridentata subsp. commutata - Toothed Orchid A handful of spikes on fenced limestone ridge on Gious Kambos. [Short almost conical spike, with violet-lilac flowers whose 13-20mm long labellum is strongly marked with purple lines]. Neotinea (Orchis) tridentata subsp. tridentata ( 10 ) Rare all over Gious Kambos, and a few on field banks of Omalos plain. [Differs in short oval spike, labellum 7-12mm]. Serapias bergonii (a long-lipped Serapias) ( 3-10, 14) Grassy sites: [Reddish-brown spikes with tongue-like lip with two dark blobs at base, and long bracts]. Serapias lingua Tongue Orchid ( 5, 7-11, 14 ) Generally in damper phrygana. [Differs in long lip with 1 basal swelling, often much paler or pinker than the rest of flower] Serapias orientalis (a long-lipped Serapias) ( 6, 14 )With other Serapias, local and mainly in drier areas: Aghia Triada and Faestos. [From other tongue orchids by its lip being 11-23mm wide near base and markedly

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hairy]. Serapias parviflora Small-flowered Tongue-orchid ( 3, 5, 8, 9 ) Phrygana: (shade); near sea at Plakias and Damnoni. [Similar to S. bergonii, but shorter bracts and lip more closely recurved under flower. Planted in flower-tubs at the Heracles rooms].

Typhaceae Typha domingensis (a reedmace) Marsh and ditch by road. [Typical reedmace].

Cupressaceae Cupressus sempervirens ( 213) Juniperus oxycedrus (14)

Pinaceae Abies alba (Seen) Pinus brutia (2-14 )

Adiantaceae Adiantum capillus-veneris - Maidenhair Fern (7-9 )

Aspidiaceae Dryopteris felix-mas (Seen) Dryopterris pallida (9)

Aspleniaceae Asplenium scolopendrium (Scolopendrium vulgare) – Hart’s Tongue Fern (4 Asplenium trichomanes Maidenhair Spleenwort (4) Ceterach officinarum Rusty back Fern (2-4, 7-9, 11, 12, 14 )

Blechnaceae Blechnum spicant ( Seen)

Dennstaedtiaceae/Hypolepidaceae Pteridium aquilinum - Bracken (2, 4, 6-10, 14 )

Equisetaceae Equisetum arvense (Seen) Equisetum telmateia (11)

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Polypodium vulgare - (Seen)

Pteridaceae Pteris vittata ( 14 )

Selaginellaceae Selaginella denticulata (2, 5-10, 12, 14 )

Sinopteridaceae Cheilanthes maderensis (11, 14 )

Palmae (Arecaceae) Phoenix theophrasti Cretan Date-palm ( 7 ) [Typical date-palm with pinnately cut leaves].

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Systematic List Number 2 Birds

During the two week period a total of 75 species were recorded. The season was late and migration had not started – wind in the wrong direction and towards the end of the holiday the clouds were too low and thick. The taxonomic nomenclature and the systematic order have been taken from Mullarney, Svensson, et ‘Collins Bird Guide to the Birds of Britain & Europe’ published by Harper Collins (1999). The numbers indicate the days on which a species was seen, starting from the first day we arrived.

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Several seen at Agia Reservoir. (13) White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus An individual was watched in the harbour area at Georgioupolis, which was probably of this species. It may be an astray or an escapee. (13) Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo One at Triopetra. (3) Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus Single at Agia Reservoir. (13) Little Egret Bubulcus ibis Single on day (6) and day (13) Purple Heron Ardea purpurea An individual at Triopetra and nr Amari (3, 9 ) Garganey Anas querquedula Two on the Geogiopolis lake (13) Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus Two seen in the Kourtaliotis Gorge and one just beyond Mourne picking up and dropping bones (6) Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus A common species seen on days (3-9, 13 ). Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos Single birds (2, 12) Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Two birds flying around Agia Reservoir. (13) Buzzard Buteo buteo Very common Seen on days (2-6) . Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus Single birds day (6, 14) Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus A single individual at Triopetra. (4) Kestrel Falco tinnunculus (3 -5) . Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni Two circling and harrased by Jackdaws at Antonios Gorge.(9) Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus Beleived sighted ( 6 ) Chukar Alectoris chukar Group above Imbros Gorge (13) Rock Partridge Alectoris graeca ( 4, 5, 6) Little Crake Porzana parva Fantastic views & photographs of this very elusive bird at Agia Reservoir. (13) Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Several seen at Georgioupolis & Agia Reservoir. (13) Coot Fulica atra Several seen at Georgioupolis & Agia Reservoir. (13) Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula A single bird on Triopetra beach. (3) Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatalis Single bird on Geogiopolis lake. (13) Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans Only a few gulls seen - Recorded ( 2, 6, 12, 13) Rock Dove/Feral pigeon Columba livia Recorded ( 2, 4, 9, 14) 49 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563

Stock Dove Columba oenas ( 6 ) Woodpigeon Columba palumbus Seen but not days recorded Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto ( 6, 9, 14 ) Cuckoo Cuculus canorus Heard in the distance (14) Scops Owl Otus scops Not heard despite trying. Swift Apus apus Scattered sightings. (2-4, 6, 9 ) Alpine Swift Apus melba A limited number of sightings (/6, 9, 12, 14) Hoopoe Upupa epops Three sightings ( 3, 13, 14, and heard (6) Skylark Alauda arvensis Heard & seen once at Triopetra ( 3 ) Crested Lark Galerida cristata Widespread & recorded on several days. (2-6, 9, 11, 12 ) Woodlark Lullula arborea Single sighting (2) Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris A familiar martin around rocky cliffs & gorges. ( 3, 4, 8, 9, 12-14 ) Swallow Hirundo rustica Widespread (2-9, 13 ) Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica Seen at Agia reservoir ( 13) House Martin Delichon urbica Mainly recorded at the end of the trip. (8, 13 ) Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis Possibly seen Omalos (13, 14) Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis Seen Omalos (14) White Wagtail Motacilla alba Seen only day (3) Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Single birds only on days ( 4, 14 ) Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe limited number of isolated sightings ( 2-6, 9, 13, 14 ) Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe melanoleuca Single sightings ( 3, 9, 13 ) Whinchat Saxicola rubetra Single sightings (6, 7) Stonechat Saxicola torquata One or two on each of the following days (2-6, 9, 13, 14) Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius Single sightings (3-5) Blackbird Turdus merula Regularly heard or seen on every day – the main bird of the trip. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla A few seen and heard (2, 4, 6, 9) . Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala Regularly heard or seen ( 3-9, 12, 14) . Ruppell’s Warbler Sylva rueppelli Single bird on the way to Triopetra (3) Cetti’s warbler Cettia cetti Limited sightings but regularly heard (2, 4, 6-11 ) Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Single bird Gious Kambos (9) Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata Two seen ( 12) Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis A few (13) Semi-collared Flycatcher Ficedula semitorquata A single bird at Aradena (12) Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca Single bird (9) and a few (2 -4) Blue Tit Parus caeruleus Regularly seen or heard most days (2-6, 8, 9, 12- 14 ) Great Tit Parus major Limited sightings (9, 12-14) Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator Excellent single sightings (13, 14)

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Jay Garrulus glandarius A couple of fleeting glimpses (12, 14) Jackdaw Corvus monedula Mainly recorded in the gorges. (6//9) Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax Regularly seen in mountains and gorges ( 4, 5, 7- 10, 12, 14) Hooded Crow Corvus cornix Widespread & recorded everyday. Raven Corvus corax Infrequent (4, 5, 12-14 ).

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There were regular parties of sparrows everyday, which were probably a mixture of the following two species. House Sparrow Passer domesticus Widespread & recorded everyday. Italian Sparrow Passer italiae Widespread & recorded everyday. Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Widespread & recorded almost everyday. 93-14) Linnet Carduelis cannabina A few seen ( 3-5, 8 ) Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis A number seen while travelling ( 2-6, 8) . Greenfinch Carduelis chloris A few seen (12-14) Corn Bunting Milaria calandra two seen Gious Kambos (2) .

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Systematic List Number 3 Mammals

Mammals were a bit scarce on the viewing front, and only four species were actually seen during the two weeks. The numbers indicate the days on which a species was seen.

Eastern Hedgehog Erinaceus concolor One road kill Weasel Mustela nivalis One scuttled across the road) Beech Martin Martes foina Unfortunately we never saw a live creature, the single sighting was a road kill.

Systematic List Number 4 Reptiles & Amphibians

Although not main species were recorded, those species that were seen gave spectacular performances of colour & noise. The numbers indicate the days on which a species was seen.

Cretan Water Frog Rana cretensis Several were found in a water storage pond (6) American Bullfrog Rana catebeianus Not one to be seen or heard at Agia Reservoir. (13) Loggerhead Turtle Caretta caretta Two mating off Kalimaki Beach (6)) Erhard’s Wall Lizard Podarcis erhardii This was a very common lizard, widespread & seen on many days. Cretan Wall Lizard Podarcis cretensis Scattered records of this species, but might have been confused with Erhard’s, as variation occurs in both species. (5/7/8) Balkan Green Lizard Lacerta trilineata A couple of fleeting glimpses during the trip Green Tree Frog Hyla arborea By Dactylorhiza romana (8)

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Systematic List Number 5 Butterflies

List prepared by Paul Huckle.

The taxonomic nomenclature and the systematic order have been taken from Tolman and Lewington’s ‘Butterflies of Britain and Europe’ published by Harper Collins (1997). Over the two weeks a nice selection of species were recorded, with a total of 20 species identified. The numbers indicate the days on which a species was seen.

Swallowtail Papilio machaon Widespread with sporadic sightings. (2,6,11) Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides podalirius One good sighting en-route to Festos. (6) Cretan Festoon Zerynthia cerisy cretica Seen well on coastal headlands at Plakias. (7,10) Large White Pieris brassicae Widespread and regularly seen. (2,5-10,13) Small White Artogeia rapae Widespread and regularly seen. (2-13) Clouded Yellow Colias crocea Widespread and regularly seen. (3,4,6,7,9-13) Cleopatra Gonepteryx cleopatra Females seen around Spili, a male at Triopetra (2,3,5) Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas Scattered sightings of individuals. (2,7,12) Long-tailed Blue Lampides boeticus One seen in Imbros Gorge. (12) Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus Widespread with sporadic sightings. (5,8-10,13) Brown Argus Aricia agestis A freshly emerged individual on the Spili Mound. (10) Common Blue Polyommatus icarus Only two sightings. (6,7) Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta Several sightings. (4,6,8) Painted Lady Vanessa cardui Widespread with sightings throughout. (4-8,10,12,14) Small Tortoiseshell Aglais urticae Glimpsed from vehicle. (11) Southern Comma Polygonia egea One seen in Imbros Gorge. (12) Meadow Brown Maniola jurtina One seen near Agia Triada; one seen near Myrthios. (6,11) Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria Widespread in suitable areas, including the back garden of the hotel at Spili. (2,4,5,8,9,11,13,14) Wall Brown Lasiommata megera Widespread with sporadic sightings. (3,9-11) Lulworth Skipper Thymelicus acteon Several sightings near Agia Triada. (6)

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Systematic List Number 6 Other invertebrates

The following species are a selection of insects that were spotted during the two weeks. The numbers indicate the days on which a species was seen.

Egyptian Locust Anacridium aegyptium A couple seen Pine Processionary Moth Thaumetopoea pityocampa Caterpillars of this species formed large white nests. Very common in pine woodlands. (11-14) Carpenter Bee Xylocopa violacea Flying around Romulea below Psiloritis (4) Scarab (Dung) Beetle Scarabeus sacer A few working on dung balls below Psilloritis (4) Pollen Beetle Oxythyrea funesta Most days nesting in flowers, mainly Cistus and Chrysanthemums

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