Adventure

Sardine Run THE GREATEST SHOAL ON EARTH

The greatest migratory on the planet is not the 1.5-million wildebeest of the Serengeti, but the humble . As hundreds of thousands of , , , seals and birds descend on ten-mile long shoals of bait for frantic feeding frenzies, it presents yacht owners with the opportunity of ringside seats for the greatest show on earth. Yet nobody shows up… until now.

BY: Ocean Adventurer Images: Courtesy of Ocean Adventurer and SEAL Expeditions

– 313 – Having yet to feature on any large yacht’s megayacht owners to the last frontier to wit- is a spectacle in itself. Add into the mix how- passionate ocean lover and founder of the I passage plan to our knowledge, the annual ness the spectacle. ever the predators that arrive en mass to par- Am Water Trust, Hanli Prinsloo jumped at is arguably one of the greatest Every year, between the months of May and take in the planet’s largest , the opportunity to join Ocean Adventurer on opportunities left unexplored by the megay- July, many millions of silvery travel and you get a wildlife extravaganza that will “Everything their 2012 Sardine Run expedition. Embark- acht community. From spotting ‘The Big north from the cold southern oceans off undoubtedly live in the memory for a life- ing the company’s 82’ catamaran in East Lon- Five’ to observing the awe-inspiring migra- 's Cape Point. Hugging the shore time. Hundreds of thousands of birds, dol- in Africa bites, don, the party travelled south overnight to tion of 1.5-million wildebeest across the as they make their way up along the - phins, sharks, whales and all gorge Port St John’s, where the Sardine Run is typ- plains of the Serengeti, for centuries explor- lines of the former Transkei (now northern themselves on sardines, creating the most but the safari ically witnessed. “The sardines make their ers have travelled Africa with experienced Eastern Cape) and KwaZulu-Natal, the spectacular marine show on earth. bug is worst way north,” she explains to us, “but not in a guides to observe the rich and diverse seething mass of sardine shoals is so large very straight line, so the years of experience wildlife it offers. But few have witnessed the they are visible to satellites. Consisting of BORN FREE of all.” Ocean Adventurer have and their partner- Sardine Run. Hooking up with Ocean Adven- shoals ranging in size, the largest of which Wildlife by its very definition is unpre- Brian Jackman ship with SEAL Expeditions (www.sar- turer, an experienced marine expedition can be up to 10-miles long and 2-miles wide, dictable, so being in the right place at the dinerun.com) is invaluable in not missing H charter company based in Cape Town, IN- with depth extending over a 100’ on occasion right time is key to getting a ringside seat to out. Criss-crossing the open blue, you’re re- VICTUS investigated how they can deliver – it’s a truly huge bio-mass. The Sardine Run the main show. As a professional freediver, minded of how large the ocean is when you’re

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During the Sardine Run, searching for something.” Hanli went on to “Almost daily, friendly bottlenose Hanli Prinsloo, South recount how each morning numerous let us play with them,” she grins, “clicking Africa's 11-times breaching whales would hail sunrise, but it and scanning they would show off their Freediving Record was by following the flocks of gannets over- aquatic acrobatics, making my monofin look Holder, intimately head they would locate the bait balls. Once like a clumsy children’s toy. One morning I communicates with a the birds began their aerial bombardment, spotted a large stingray in open water, but it wide variety of the hitting the water at high velocity and diving is not a creature you want to irritate. Getting David DeVilliers, owner ocean's inhabitants. to depths of 20m to chase their prey, the team closer I saw the lobes on the side of the head, of Ocean Adventurer, knew it was time to get in the water. Donning then the distinct black and white markings welcomes Hanli Prinsloo her monofin and slipping into the inky blue, on her back. A giant manta! It was like recog- back to OA2, the Hanli’s soulful connection with the ocean is nizing a familiar friend, so I circle close to her liveaboard charter cat immediately apparent as she retells some of and, after checking me out with her large specializing in Sardine her encounters. eyes, she continued with her secret games on Run experiences.

– 316 – Equally spectacular from the air as on and under the sea, SEAL Expeditions operate microlights, as well as surface craft and guided dives.

the surface; splashing and twirling. Following slowly, I watched her elegant wings undulate and with no visible effort glide through the ocean.” More distant, but equally personal encoun- ters followed for Hanli, and with much larger denizens of the deep. “During the trip I also dove with some friendly humpback whales,” she recalls, “their long pectoral fins glowed in the murky water before they hung just out of sight. They were so close their loud exha- lation, followed by the eerie metallic echo of their inhalation, rattled in my chest. Swim- ming down to below 30’ I hung there, just lis- tening to them sing. I’d never heard song that loud before. Their song carries for miles under water but they were so close I Whether in the 'eye of the storm' or on the fringes, the Sardine Run is an immersive experience; physically and spiritually. was suspended in their sound. Held by their notes I surrendered to their song and felt tears form inside my mask. I was mes- merised. I wanted to stay there forever.”

WILD SIDE Hanli’s tranquil and tender experiences with Ocean Adventurer on the fringe of the Sar- dine Run contrast starkly however with the violence and ferocity Ken Knezick, another of SEAL Expedition’s clients, recalls from his 2009 adventure. “For our first we jumped in on snorkel. The ball was small, but had a pod of dolphin working it ruthlessly. It was amazing to see how fast the dolphin swim when they slice into the bait. I noticed that when the dolphin shift into hyper-drive, I could hear their bodies whooshing through the ; I suspect they are able to supercavitate in the water.” The Sardine Run sees the gathering of numerous ‘super-pods’ of , consisting of more than 1,000 of these intelligent creatures in each. Working in unison they are the ‘shepherds’ of the Sardine Run, herding shoals of sardine into tight bait balls so they, and other preda- tors, can feed efficiently. The best example of this collaboration Ken witnessed in action was on the sixth day of his trip. “On our final dive day we really hit

– 318 – – 319 – “It’s like a war zone! The curtain of ‘tracer trails’ left by the gannets as they dive like artillery shells and thousands of percussive thuds blend into a continuous salvo.”

the ultimate Sardine Run jackpot,” he reports. The sharks let the dolphin do all the work I saw a ghostly of sharks circling intently, “Captain Paul put us on a bait ball better than then slowly finned through the ball to feed. preventing the sardines from seeking the anything our guides had ever seen, the sar- Like a living Swiss cheese, the sardines safety of the darker depths. Making my way dines numbered in the hundreds of thou- would instinctively morph to create a tunnel back to the top I could see the broad apex of sands. The ball went from five feet below the in the bait ball for the sharks to pass.” the ball was an ever-changing tableau of sar- surface down to at least 70’. Back-rolling of Ken continues, “As a rule, I tried to stay just at dines, sharks and dolphin, all jockeying for po- the boat into the water I immediately came the periphery of the sardines, but once or twice sition. Adding to the drama were flights of face-to-face with sharks; lots of sharks! There ventured briefly inside to be enveloped by the Cape Gannet birds, which percussively crash were packs of bronze whalers, a crew of very living mass of the bait ball. On one such foray into the water with folded wings, and then "There were packs of bronze whalers, a crew of very ragged sand tigers, a scattering of big black I almost bumped into the biggest of the sand swim down to about 100’ leaving contrails of ragged sand tigers, a scattering of big black tips, tips, and one truly colossal bull who tigers as it materialized out of the throng of bubbles in their wake.” cruised serenely through the midst of this baitfish. The shark nonchalantly brushed past and one truly colossal bull shark who cruised serenely natural chaos. An organized team of large me and calmly continued its feeding. I also CAPTIVATING EXPERIENCE dolphin zoomed around the edges of the ball, briefly allowed myself to sink to have a peek As the frenzy heightens and turns into a through the midst of this natural chaos." Ken Knezick forcing the sardines into a tight silvery mass. underneath the ball. In a shadowy world below maelstrom of whirling marine life, so the bait

– 321 – ball inexorably shrinks and visibility is re- back whale songs, the explosive action of the periods than most, Maxwell has inevitably duced by the sheer number of scales that are Sardine Run comes with a natural sound-ef- had a few close shaves. He reports how pred- torn off the sardines. While vision is man’s fect backing track. Videos filmed by Maxwell ator aggression intensifies as the bait ball re- primary sensory input, and the sight of larger show heart-stopping moments. As he focuses duces, at times being hit as sharks charge in. predators feeding in vast numbers is un- the camera upwards, concentrating on the During one encounter, Maxwell describes doubtedly one of the Sardine Run’s primary shoal and light above, from the dark deep 50’ how he was hit in the leg and stomach by draws, the experience is a full sensory expe- Brydes whales launch past him vertically, large dusky sharks, scratching his hand on rience with sound and touch very much com- their gaping mouths passing within feet and the razor-sharp teeth of one as he fended it ing into play. Those who have witnessed it the turbulence of their wash buffeting the off. Bleeding amongst a pack of frenzied are most animated with discussing the flocks cameraman. “While not large by whale stan- sharks is obviously a perilous position that of gannets who dive bomb the shoals. As they dards, having a 25 ton animal charge past one should extricate themselves from as hit the water at speeds up to 100mph, one you, mouth agape, is an unnerving experi- promptly as possible, and Maxwell did just diver described the bombardment as akin to ence,” Maxwell is quoted as saying. that. Hurriedly swimming back toward the being in a war zone, with the thousands of Getting into the water with thousands of the boat, his concern peaked as tightly packed percussive thuds blending into a continuous ocean’s apex predators, all concentrated in a groups of sharks, dolphins and gannets salvo. The curtain of ‘tracer trails’ left by the small space and whipped up into a feeding closed in around him. A hurried glance over birds as they dive like artillery shells further frenzy, has inherent risk, but divers report his shoulder however revealed it was not his reinforces the comparison. negligible threat from sharks and the like. blood that was attracting the unwelcomed at- Charles Maxwell, an Emmy Award winning “Although dolphin, sharks and birds were tention, but the shoal of sardines that were ocean videographer, has extensive experi- frantically attacking the sardines all around following him closely, seeking refuge in his ence of the Sardine Run and describes the us, not one of us was ever touched by a pred- wake. A situation he could laugh off after- “intense” underwater audio. With plunging ator, even by accident,” says Ken Knezick. wards, but one that quickened the heart rate gannets, dolphin clicks and distant hump- Getting closer to the action and for longer at the time.

While filming his heart stopping videography of sharks in the Sardine Run, Charles Maxwell reports how 25 ton Brides Whales would rush past him vertically, mouths wide agape. First contact

Ocean Adventurer DAVID DE VILLIERS Ground Floor. Marina Offices West Quay Road V&A Waterfront Cape Town South Africa Tel: +27 214215565 Fax: +27 214215529 Web: www.ocean-adventurer.com www.sardinerun.com

Ocean Adventurer 2 'OA2' -The newest addition to the Ocean Adventurer fleet is an 82’ power catamaran and the only one of its kind in existence. Built by Dufour yachts in France, there were 16 of these hulls built, of which OA2 is the only power version. Fast, economical and boasting a transoceanic range, it cruises at between 14-16-knots and has a top speed of 21-knots. Guest accommodation: 10 (3x double, 1x four berth ‘bunk cabin’) Crew accommodation: 2 Tenders: 2x 17’ (5.2m) tenders Optional tender: 30’ (10m) dive RIB Certification: MCA Equipment: Generators, watermaker, dive compressor, 12x dive bottles, BBQ, inflatable couches, TV/DVD, etc.

– 322 – – 323 – PREPARING FOR ADVENTURE they can chase the elusive shoal. For yacht opportunity to visit a local African tribal witch hemisphere winter, so water temperatures of In partnering with SEAL Expeditions, the owners and their guests who wish to witness doctor and of course visits to some of Africa’s 65-70 degrees should be expected. Strong sun premier Sardine Run operators since 2002, the spectacle from their own more luxurious most spectacular gorges and waterfalls that during the days however, means sunblock and Ocean Adventurer is able to offer interested megayachts, discussion with David de Villiers, abound in the area. With daily microlight a wide brimmed hat are as essential as a thick Joining you parties a number of scenarios and unforget- Ocean Adventurer’s founding partner, sug- spotting flights (weather permitting) search- wetsuit. Sturdy footwear, long pants and warm table experiences in relation to the Sardine gests they’ll also be happy to offer full support ing for the shoal from the air – SEAL provides jackets should be packed for land-based ad- for dinner will be… Run. The company currently offers live- and Sardine Run guide services. Guests can the best opportunity to get into the thick of ventures, and of course don’t forget your wa- aboard charters on their purpose built 82’ witness the Sardine Run from the deck of the the whatever the Ocean has to offer. terproof camera! At the conclusion of each • 20,000 Common dolphin • Orcas () power catamaran, which can either act itself boat, by snorkelling, with full scuba qualified In terms of arrival point in South Africa, those conversation we had with those that have ex- • 5,000 and Bryde`s Whales as a dive platform, or as a mothership from guides or even from the air. In conjunction attending the Sardine Run are best advised to perienced the Sardine Run, the closing com- • Ten's of thousands of Gannets • Southern Right Whales which smaller 32’ and 18’ (10m and 5.5m) RIB with SEAL Expeditions, Ocean Adventurer are head for , but should be aware that ments inevitably included the phrase, “I can’t and Storm Petrels • Humpback Whales dive craft can be launched. Comfortably ac- also able to offer land-based accommodation, poor roads between the city and Port Edward wait to go again.” It appears the famous quote • Thousands of sharks • A plethora of gamefish commodating eight guests and capable of transfers, and optional activities on foul- mean the journey is best completed in day- by journalist Brian Jackman requires amend- • Hundreds of seals that follow the melee economically cruising at 15-knots, Ocean Ad- weather days, including hiking, horse-back rid- light hours. It’s worth also remembering that ing: “Everything in Africa bites, but the Sar- venturer 2’s top speed of 21-knots ensures ing and canoeing. There’s even the unique the Sardine Run coincides with the southern dine Run bug is the worst of all.”I

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