Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty

ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY 321 Whakaari (White Island) Whakatane or discovering the or discovering hangi www.bayofplenty.co.nz Whakarewarewa Forest Tamaki Maori Village Mt Maunganui Tauranga Mitai Maori Village Lake McLaren Wai-O-Tapu

( p330 ) ( p328 ) ( p328 ) Wai-O- Mt Maun- www.rotoruanz.com Mitai Tauranga and taking in a (White Island; Island; (White

at night in a quest to ( p354 ) hangi ( p328 ) or Whakaari Whakarewarewa Forest Whakarewarewa Tamaki Whakatane Lake McLaren ( p348 )

( p341 ) discover the secret glow-worm canyon ( p343 ) p343 glow-worm canyon ( the secret discover concert at Maori villages p357 ) hardcore at hardcore ganui marine volcano, at the geothermal wonderland of Tapu ( p343 ) or Mountain biking on tracks from humble to Surfing NZ’s first artificial at reef Flying or boating out to NZ’s only active Swimming with dolphins at into a Maori Tucking Watching the kaleidoscopic colours swirling Kayaking TELEPHONE CODE: 07 07 TELEPHONE CODE:

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

East along the pohutukawa-covered coast is Whakatane,East along the pohutukawa-covered point for tours the launching Rotorua, NZ’s most famous tourist desti- obvious than in hotbed of activity more is no This plenty are there strongholds of Maori tradition and history, so Rotorua and the Bay remain It was Captain Cook who christened the Bay of Plenty as he sailed into harbour in 1769, and he sailed into harbour the Bay of Plenty as who christened Cook It was Captain to this day, blessed with buckets of sunshine and a stunning sandy coast- plentiful it remains from Waihi Beach in the west to Opotiki Bay stretches in the east, with a sprinkling The line. – the sand-spit in between. Mt Maunganui bustling hub of Tauranga of seaside towns and the Kiwi mound at the end – has been popular with suburb that takes name from the green its activities. leisure it for its lashings of salt-licked holidaymakers who love for generations volcano, Whakaari most active activity Island). Volcanic studs the (White to New Zealand’s that under this fertilesoil constant reminders Plateau, to the Central landscape from here upwards to the surface. oozing core, lies a molten geysers, hot springs, explosive steaming goes on among the daily business of life nation. Here for its unique eggy smell. gas responsible bubbling mud pools, and the clouds of sulphurous it’s of the indigenous people of NZ – whether of opportunities the rich culture to explore a powerfulattending concert performance, down at a chowing Rotorua & the Bay Bay & the Rotorua of Plenty of Maori artsmeaning and techniques and crafts. lonelyplanet.com

320 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely ©

OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY by Tamatekapua, arrived fromHawaiki at cal features ashe discovered them.Ihenga much of theinlandforest, naminggeographi- Tamatekapua’s grandson, Ihenga,explored rate themhere. thevessel that hadbrought took thetribalname Te Arawato commemo- Maketu of inthecentralBay Plenty.Settlers tury whenthecanoe This area wasfirst inthe14th cen- settled HISTORY excitement typicalof atrue resort town. annually, bringingwiththemanenergy and North Islandwithnearlythree millionvisitors City’ isoneof themosttouristed spotson the attraction asthe landscape itself. performances andtraditional the populationisMaori, withtheircultural Wai-O-Tapu (Sacred Waters). Today35%of naming oneof springs themostspectacular mud pools.TheMaori revered thisplace, sers, steaming hotspringsandexploding dynamic thermalarea withspurtinggey- and you’ve already gotataste of NZ’smost Breathe in thesulphur-rich airof Rotorua pop 70,400 Whakatane and Opotiki. Tauranga, runbetween Hopperservices Bay Coaster andother maincitiesinNZ.Bay Tauranga, withmost RotoruaandWhakatane Queenstown. and connectRotoruawithChristchurchflights Wellington andChristchurch. Qantas to Auckland;andfromRotoruaAuckland, Auckland andWellington;fromWhakatane fromTauranga hasflights Air NewZealand to Getting There&Around spells in summer. Rotorua, which alsoexperienceslongdry isheavier inlandinplacessuch as Rainfall warmeronthecoast. it’sslightly although themercuryfallaslow5°C, winter sees peratures hover 20°Cand27°Cwhile between (2350 peryearonaverage). Insummertem- recordingBay themosthours of sunshine gions of andtheEastern NZ,withWhakatane ofThe Bay Plentyisoneof thesunniestre- Climate 322 ROTORUA Despite the pervasive eggy odour,‘Sulphur eggy Despite the pervasive InterCity and Naked Bus services connect InterCity and Naked Busservices OOU • Hsoy ROTORUA ••History Te Arawa, hangi captained asbigan Northland intheso-calledMusket Wars. After Arawa landswere invadedbytribesfromthe tory. Aflashpointoccurred in1823whenthe conflicts breaking outover limited terri- spread thearea anddividedthrough with across. came lake asitwasthesecond he Lake’) ‘Second unimaginatively dubbedthelake Rotorua(or parallel is themajor road, Fenton through part of which isapedestrian mall.Running Stisthecentralshopping area,Tutanekai ORIENTATION eruption (see p340 ). they were destroyedinthe1886MtTarawera naturalwonder ofas theeighth theworld, by volcanicsilicadeposits.Touted atthetime fabulous PinkandWhite Terraces, formed town boomed.Itsmainattraction wasthe watery cures The forallmannerof diseases. of scenicwonders, miraculous landscapesand p219). text, movementport theKingitanga theboxed (see Coast reinforcements getting tosup- through gaining troopsupportandpreventing East ment againstitstraditionalWaikatoenemies, Te Arawathrew initslotwiththegovern- withdrew. eventually onbothsides,theNorthlandersheavy losses With peaceintheearly1870s,wordspread In thenextfew hundred years, subtribes During the Waikato Land War(1863-64) During theWaikatoLand Whakatane’s soulfulsons Whakatane’s Braunias schoolboy, Steve byMtMaunganui written joys ofavianobservation, ( genuine thermalhangiatWhakarewarewa p327 ) and learnalittle clean funmeansgettingwetbehindtheears( p343 ) Go green Tackiest tourist attraction Festival Swim at Watch Listen to Read Drink Eat FACTS ROTORUA &THEBAY OFPLENTY ( p344) shaped viewing tower at Kiwi360 ( shaped viewingtoweratKiwi360 p353 ) ( Aotearoa Breweries p358 ) Abutterycorncob,pulledoutofRotorua’sonly

How toWatchaBird, Mata beer, micro-brewed by Kawerau’s byKawerau’s beer,micro-brewed Mata Maori TV, the publicly funded TV station, thepubliclyfundedTV TV, Maori TheNationalJazzFestival inTauranga Mount Beach, Mt Maungaunui ( MountBeach,MtMaungaunui p348 )

Waimarino Adventure Park, Waimarino where good Kora , theeponymousrootsyalbumfrom te reo an expositiononthe Thekiwifruit- lonelyplanet.com Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ lonelyplanet.com Cybershed Cyber World Access Internet &police service Ambulance, fire Emergency McLeods Booksellers Bookshops INFORMATION to the south. St, which islinedwithmotels, particularly Haupapa St) bookshop withextensive travel section. 9am-4pmSat,10am-3pmSun)Independent 7pm Fri, 1269 Tutanekai St; (50km) To Hamilton (125km) To Auckland Te Aroha Lake Maraetai Arataki Shaftesbury (146km) To Auckland 27 BAY OFPLENTY 2 Mangakino Lake Taupo ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ Whakamaru Tirau Te Poi Matamata Whakamaru Hinuera

Waikino

Putaruru 24 Lake Range Kaimai 32 28 Lichfield Waiomou Kaimai Mamaku 1 Selwyn 5 Tokoroa Forest Park Waihi (Map p326 ; Atiamuri Mokai Kinloch Tokoroa Airfield Upper (Map (Map p326 ; Acacia 2 30 Katikati McLaren Bay Orakei Korako ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ Wairakei Mamaku Aongatete Waihi Beach Falls 29 h Forest Park Mamaku Kaimai Athenree Ongare Point Mt Ngongotaha ROTORUA ••Information Lookout Minden Lake Atiamuri 8.30am-6pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am- Ohakuri Wharawaka % Taupo (Map (Map p326 ; Ngongotaha Taupo Airport Omokoroa Lake Ngakuru Te Puna Matakana Island Ὀ Tahorakuri % (757m) Tauranga Harbour 07-349 4965; 1176Pukuatua St) 36

Waikato 30 Pyes Pa 07-348 0088;1174 ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲ Tauranga

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Pukehina Ta Murupara

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Whirinaki River Tarawera w Rangiuru Rangiuru St; Haupapa Sts) Post Office Post Bank ofNewZealand ANZ Bank Kiwibank atthe post office. banks offer currency exchange including There’s aTravelex atthei-SITE,andmost Money Rotorua Hospital Care Prime Lakes Services Medical Tutanekai St; (Mt Edgecumbe) Forest e ra Forest Park Whirinaki

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% % Waimana River Waimana Waioeka Gorge Scenic Reserve Ohiwa 07-348 1199; Beach 07-348 1000;1165 Kutarere Lake Waikareiti Waiotahi Rv Waiotahi

Wairata Beach Waioeka Otara To Gisborne Opotiki Urutawa

Forest River River 35 (88km)

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OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY travel bookings including travel bookings ferries. interisland tonoonSat)Domestic andinternational 5pm Mon-Fri, cnrFenton.houseoftravel.co.nz; &ErueraSts; by various subtribesof thearea. Thelake can Island spent volcano. Sittinginthe lake is lakes andis– underneath allthat water – a RotoruaisthelargestLake of the district’s16 Lake Rotorua House ofTravel Travel United Galaxy Travel Agencies TravelCafe Rotoruai-SITE Tourism maps andothertravel information. % office Association Automobile Tourist Information 324 services includingshowers services and lockers. DOC walks. Italsohasanexchangebureau, caféandother including The hubforalltravelinformationandbookings 678; www.rotoruanz.com;1167Fenton St; access on site. here andabroad.Internet as well astransport activities foralllocalaccommodation and Sat) Handlesbookings cafe.co.nz; 1221Tutanekai St; local and international. 1183 AmohauSt)Booksplanes,busesandaccommodation, SIGHTS at nearby Buried Village onatourof about thekiwi compulsory stopenroute fornature-lovers is you canwhileawayseveral hourswithafarmshow,bungy,giant swingandthezanyZorb. Take with afieldstarting itinerary, thenexplore thetwo-day further Four Days Ohinemutu Rotorua Museum &History ofArt Up withthelarkandbreakfast at nearthelakeside Two Days ROTORUA AREAIN… Baths Mitai Skyrides exploration bymountainbike. Hopacrosstowntoluge,swinganddineattheunmissable its top.Fromthere, it’saquickhoptothe 07-348 3069;www.aatravel.co.nz; 1121ErueraSt)Has OOU • Sgt ROTORUA ••Sights Start theseconddaywithatourof Start , which has for centuries been occupied , which hasforcenturiesbeen 38) ar villages. Maori ( p328) ( p326 ) forarelaxing Intheevening, catcha soak. Mp p326; (Map ( p339 ), butnotbefore catchingthefalconsat Lake Okataina Lake Okataina ( opposite ) andbacktotownviasteamy Mp p326; (Map 30) si in swim ( p340), (Map (Map p326 ; % (Map (Map p326 ; 07-343 6525;www.travel h % 8.30am-6pm Mon- (AA; Map (AA;Map p326 ; 07-348 4152;www ( p328). % % Kiwi Encounter. 07-349 7444; Lake Tarawera h 0800 768 h 8am-6pm) ( opposite ) willbeopen.Strollalongthewaters’ edgeto Te Whakarewarewa 9am- Mokoia Whakarewarewa Forest Rainbow Springs Nature Park On yourlastday,headsoutheastandvisitthe ( p340 alongwalkononeofthetracks), ortake te lake. the % most famous tales ofmost famoustales theisland andtakes you $90/47.50, 2½-3hr)tourincludeshearingthe (adult/childThe Ultimate IslandExperience visitors toMokoiaIslandandoffers twotours. Volcanic AirSafaris) situated at the lakefront. be explored operators byboatwithseveral Lakefront; 30min/2½hr $69/120) Lakefront; Jet Kawarau p330). (see hires fishingboatsandruns tours kayaks (perhour/halfday$20/35). Italso boats (per20mins$8/5peradult/child) and rental of pontoonboats(perhour$95),pedal 5.30pm) 925; www.manaadventures.co.nz; Lakefront; head for $68/34). dinner and longer lake (lunch $47/24, cruises fers one-hourbreakfast (adult/child $35/18), % similar butwithless of a walkabout. of Mokoia(adult/child $70/35,1½-2hr)is indigenous Theshorter foodtasting. Taste boxed text, opposite ). Thisisfollowedbyan to thelegendary the hotpoolof Hinemoa(see Kuirau Park Speed thingsupbyjetboatingwithSpeed To explore thelake underyourownsteam, Mokoia IslandWaiOraExperiences Lime Caffeteria The 0800 572 784; www.lakelandqueen.co.nz; Lakefront) 0800 572784;www.lakelandqueen.co.nz; 0800 665 642; www.mokoiaisland.co.nz; Lakefront, at 0800 665642;www.mokoiaisland.co.nz; Lakefront, Wingspan BirdsofPrey Trust hangi , which offers (weather permitting) ( p326 ) andwatch Lakeland Queenpaddlesteamer Lakeland Mana Adventures Mana and concert at andconcert ( %

( p327 ). Then headtothe hasexclusive totake rights ( p330 ) foracoupleofhours 0800 5387746;www.nzjetboat.co.nz; Agroventures ( p335 ) bywhichtimethe Pohutu , which tears around ( p337 ). Learn more

Mp p326 ; (Map Tamaki lonelyplanet.com 39) where (p339) geyser blow ( p328 ) or ( p337 ). % Skyline Mp p326; (Map Mp p326; (Map

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9am- A of- adult/child/family $12/5/27; 4350; www.rotoruamuseum.co.nz; GovernmentGardens; sion bydonation; Church Maori cultures. Thehistoric lage thattracesthefusingof Europeanand Ohinemutu isacharming lakeside Maori vil- Ohinemutu lonelyplanet.com as acure forgout,andrunninganelectri- here,practised includingexposure toradium intotheeccentrictherapiesonce an insight Displays intheformershower roomsoffer originally constructed asasparetreat in1908. inagrandmock-Tudorbuildinghoused to8pm,tours9.30am,11am,1pm,2.30pm&4pm) Mar impressive This Rotorua MuseumofArt&History outside. the open tovisitors butcanbeadmired from forTe house meeting Arawapeopleis not ofthe captain the House Meeting walk onthewaters of Rotorua.Lake Christ wearingaMaori cloakasheappears to windows. Onewindowfeatures animage of panels), painted scrollworkandstained-glass rated withMaori carvings, Opposite thechurch is had beenrevealed, theirunionwascelebrated. bed. The twolovers toreach were Tutanekai superhumanefforts rumbled,andwhenHinemoa’s He secreted herintohishut. that theinterloper identifyhimself–imagine hissurprise whenitturnedouttobeHinemoa! but shesmashedtheircalabashestoo, untilfinallyTutanekai cametothepoolanddemanded a water grabbedtheslave’s run.Hinemoa calabashandsmashedittopieces. More slaves came, calledout,‘Whoisit?’The manrepliedman’s voice,Hinemoa thathewasTutanekai’s slave on move.She hoppedintoahotpooltothinkabout hernext Shedding herclothinginordertoswim,shecouldhardlywalkintotheisland’s settlementnaked! the shore totheisland.Whenshearrived foundherselfinaquandary. onMokoia,Hinemoa at nighttoensure shewouldn’tgotohim. melody acrossthewater. heardhis declaration; herpeopletooktotyingupthecanoes Hinemoa forbidden. familythoughthewasafineyoungman,marriagebetweenthe twowasso, whileHinemoa’s during aregular tribalmeeting. Tutanekai Whilebothwere ofhighbirth, wasillegitimate and Rotorua, whileTutanekai wasayoungmanofMokoiaIsland wasayoungwomanof Hinemoa HINEMOA &TUTANEKAI Descendants of Hinemoa and TutanekaiDescendants ofHinemoa stilllive aroundRotorua today. aslave morning, after reportedNext that someonewasinTutanekai’s asuspiciouslylonglie-in, Eventually amancametofetch water fromacoldspring besidethehotpool.Inadeep Finally, Tutanekai’s musicwonherover. undressed Hinemoa andswamthelongdistancefrom Home onMokoia,thelovesick Tutanekai playedhisflute forhislove, thewindcarrying

(Map (Map p326 Sts;admis- &Korokai ; cnrMataiawhea , builtin1905andnamedfor h ROTORUA ••Sights 8am-6pm) museum Arawa h isintricately deco-

canoe. Thissacred canoe. 9am-5pm Apr-Sep, Oct- 9am-5pm Apr-Sep, Mp p326; (Map tukutuku St Faith’s Anglican Tama-te-kapua Tama-te-kapua % (woven hapu 07-349 (subtribe)thatlived onthewestern shore ofLake is .co.nz; there’s runs (35 balls $8). where ballsare fired atyoutohityourhome The golfpeoplealsohave a child $9/7)orthedrivingrange (80balls$10). course (adult/child $14/9),minigolf(adult/ 7pm) fancy steaming thermal poolsdotted about.Ifyou as croquetlawnsandbowlinggreens, with aplentyandcivilizedamenitiessuchroses arerounding themuseum pretty with indeed gallery wasin the works. on therooftop. Atthetimeof research, anew town) canbehadfromtheviewingplatform thebestview(arguablyalthough thebestin caféwithpicturesquepleasant gardenviews, formed of localArawapeople. There’s alsoa Maori arevered Battalion, unit military exhibits relate the stories of theWWII28 flaxweaving andjade. Other woodcarving, of 20minutes.runs every There’s acollection of Rotorua,includingtheTarawera eruption, exhaustion’. ‘nervous cal current baths through asatreatment for The English-style A gripping20-minute filmonthehistory taonga , reservations are Otherwise essential. , reservations h bowls golf 7.30am-8pm) (treasures) of Te Arawa,featuring hapu

( % ( % . The pairmet andfell inlove 07-348 0385;30min/1hr$15/20; 07-348 9126;www.thegolfcompany – either thenine-hole Government Gardens Government baseball batting h sur- 325

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OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY though manypeople justcall it ‘Whaka’.though Together of theWarParty of Wahiao’,al- Ope Taua aWahiao,meaning‘The Gathering full nameisTe area’s Whakarewarewatanga ote this ‘fa-ka-re-wa-re-wa’, Pronounced $5/free). (adult/child there’sdip yourself, amodernheated pool rooms. Ifitallmakes youfeel like a taking anecdotes anddisplaysintheoldchanging recalling thebuilding’sheyday,withrecorded in 1933.Todayyoucanvisitasmallmuseum $9/6/25; ( Spanish Mission-style 326 Te Whakarewarewa&Puia % (226km) To Auckland ROTORUA Also withinthegardensare thegorgeous 24 07-350 2119;www.bluebaths.co.nz; adult/child/family 30A OOU • Sgt Utuhina Stream ROTORUA ••Sights 33 h 5 W h itt

Auckland (226km) Agroventures (9km); Mitai MaoriVillage(4km); Fairy Springs(3km); To Rainbow& a ke 10am-6pm Apr-Nov, Dec-Mar to7pm) 10am-6pm Apr-Nov,Dec-Mar

38 r Malfroy Rd T arew Rd

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34 Hinemaru St 69 400m 0.2miles 0 0 0800 837842;www.tepuia.com; To OutdoorsmanHeadquarters (20km); LakeOkataina(32km) Village (15km);LakeTarawera (3km);Airport (10km);Buried 15 16 30A 20 lonelyplanet.com , themostpol- Government Gardens 21 Rocky Point Rotorua Lake 17 lonelyplanet.com you the stories of theirway of life andthe local villagers whoshow youaroundandtell their ancestors have for centuries.It’sthese whenua of Whaka,isaliving village, where 11.15am&2pm), 9am-4pm, concerts $25/12.50/62.50; tours &concerts TryonSt;adult/child/family incl www.whakarewarewa.com; evenings at 6.15pm. nightly at10.15am,12.15pmand 3.15pm,while start part onthehour. Daytimeconcerts(45min) onthe Kiwi house too.reserve, upshortlybefore.start There’s aspeciallylit the because skyward. You’llknowwhenit’sabouttoblow a day,spurtinghotwater upto30metres which eruptsupto20times or ‘Explosion’), The mostfamousspringis varyingfromcoldtoboilingcauldrons. serve, an excellentrange of arts and crafts. acaféandgiftshop which stocks inghouse, Rotowhio Marae, meet- which hasacarved More ofcarvers. artsare these displayedat tional Maori weavers, woodand greenstone Galaxy UnitedTravel...... Cybershed...... Cyber World...... Bank ofNewZealand...... ANZ Bank...... Art&History...... Polynesian Spa...... O'Keefe's...... Experiences...... (see18) Mokoia IslandWaiOra Millennium...... (see 34) Mana Adventures...... (see18) PaddleSteamer...... Lady Jane'sBikeHire...... (see47) Kawarau Jet...... (see18) Golf &BaseballBatting...... Climbing Wall...... (see27) Bowls...... Blue Baths...... Bike Vegas...... TravelCafe...... Tourism Rotoruai-SITE...... Rotorua Hospital...... Post Office...... McLeods Booksellers...... Lakes PrimeCare...... House ofTravel...... uooieAscainOfc.. C3 Automobile AssociationOffice.... Rotorua Museumof Lakeland Queen SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Whakarewarewa Thermal Village Village Thermal Whakarewarewa Tours of Te Puiatake 90minutes andde- There are more than500springsinthere- Mai Ora Mai (thelocals)still reside, astheyand Prince ofWales’Feathers Prince hangi ROTORUA ••Sights concertsare heldinthe 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 on theeastern side h Pohutu C3 C3 C3 C3 B3 D2 D3 C3 C1 D2 D2 D3 C3 C3 C3 B2 C3 C3 C2 C3 8.30am-5pm, tours ( MeetingHouse...... RoadLodge...... Ambassador ThermalMotel...... Tribal Lights...... St Faith'sAnglicanChurch...... Lewisham's Restaurant...... Lady Jane'sIceCreamParlour... Fat DogCafé...... Countdown...... Capers Epicurean...... Bistro 1284...... Amazing Thai...... Victoria Lodge...... Treks RotoruaBackpackers...... Six onUnion...... Rotorua Top10HolidayPark.... Rotorua CentralBackpackers.... Princes GateHotel...... Novotel LakesideRotorua...... Millennium HotelRotorua...... Kiwi PakaYHA...... Jack &Di'sLake In TheZoneBackpackers...... Funky GreenVoyager...... Cactus JackBackpackers...... Base HotRockRotorua...... Base BackpackersRotorua...... Ann's VolcanicRotorua...... Tama-te-kapua EATING SLEEPING

% (‘BigSplash’ geyser will geyser 07-349 3463; tangata cialised, it’s agreatcialised, opportunityto learnmore somefinditheavilyand, although commer- Maori culture isamajor drawcard inRotorua Maori Concerts& Hangi mineral baths for dipping. of boilingmud,plentyof steam and huffing for more displays.Ithasacrater lake, pools in mud,drawingcrowdsof spectators hoping covered much of thepark(includingtrees) free. Itsmostrecent eruptioninlate 2003 canic area thatyoucanwanderaroundfor to thecentre of Rotoruais 1.30pm and 3.30pm. tours at9.30am,10.30am,11.45am,12.30pm, formances at11.15amand2pm,guided mal the onlygenuine geother-hot mineralpool– outofbuttery pulledstraight the sweetcorn moko and tions such asflaxweaving, carving, crafts, andyoucanlearnmore about tradi- from vantage points. inaccessible fromthevillage, are easilyviewed silica terraces andthegeysers that,although significance of thesteamy bubblingpools, Want somecheap geothermal thrills? Close authenticartsand The village shopssell hangi (tattooing). Nearby you can eat tasty, Nearbyyoucaneattasty, (tattooing). 23 32 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 22 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 B1 B1 C2 C2 C2 C4 B3 B3 C3 C4 B3 C4 A3 C3 C2 C2 C3 A2 C2 C4 B3 B2 C3 B4 C2 A1 B1 intown.There are cultural per- Rent-a-Dent...... Bus Depot...... (see12) Budget...... Air NewZealand...... Raukura/Red FeatherGallery.... Out ofNewZealand...... Jade Factory...... Reading Cinema...... Princes GateHotel...... (see36) Basement Cinema...... (see27) Barbarella...... Seismic...... Pig &Whistle...... O'Malley's...... Chambers BelgianBar...... Zippy Central...... Yamamoto...... Weilin's NoodleHouse...... Restaurant Nikau...... (see34) Relish...... Pak NSave...... Mecca Kebabs...... Lovely India...... Lime Caffeteria...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING haatPukr...... C2 Pheasant Plucker...... Kuirau Park , avol- 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 327 C4 C3 C3 C3 C3 C3 B3 B3 C2 C3 B3 C2 C3 B3 C2 C2 C3 C3 C2 C2

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OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY at Marae,Rakeiao Rotoitishore, onLake 196 Fairy &hangiadult/child$92/18- Rd;concert Springs mi venues: main in ambiencewith convenience. Someof the certs and town. around optional extra,withcourtesy buspick-ups & dramatic moment.Roastbuffet of traditionallegends, hammingupevery two hours of colour-filled interpretations h Rd;adult/childshow$50/30,&meal$85/45; Geddes Lights ups frommost Rotorua hotels. marae 20 minutes’ drive fromRotorua. Theyoffer adult/child$99/50; Marae; Rakeiao (off Map p338 ; hangi people. busy 2pm; includedwithadmission), great for ( p327 shows(11.15am& ) hastwodaylight show(6.15pm),while nightly (10.15am, 12.15pm&3.15pm)andone ups are available. (four hrs adult/child total, $103/$29-56).Pick- theopenKiwienclosureand walkthrough where youcanenjoythecoloured nightlights Springs Nature Park (see p337 ) nextdoor which canbecombinedwithatourof Rainbow performance, popular three-hour of event evening concert 46; Village is followedbya meat-heavy (akahilariousbusdriver).tainer’ Theconcert tourtoa an excellenttwilight 5pm, 6pm&7pmsummer,5pmwinter) St;adult/child$95/55; .co.nz; 1220Hinemaru Village haka tertainment thatfeature thefamous often packaged together inanevening big activitiesare concertsand about theindigenous culture of NZ.Thetwo 328 required tovisita and feature abriefingontraditionalprotocol collectfromaccommodation Rotorua. Buses andMaoriing house) village 15kmsouthof An established favouriteAn established is Many of thebighotels offer Maori con- Puia Te A contemporary twistisoffered by playerofferingA long-standing aquality A similarpackage isoffered by h summer 7pm,winter6pm,Mon-Sat), , and OOU • Atvte ROTORUA ••Activities

andconcertexperienceis ( p326; 6.30pm).

stays byarrangement stays andoffer pick- Mp p338; (Map Mp p338; (Map ( p326 ) putsonthree dailyshows hangi, poi % % This family-runoutfitoffers a dances. hangi 0800 874225;www.triballights.co.nz; 37 07-348 8969;www.worldofmaori.co.nz; makingupforwhat theylack % % marae 07-349 2999;www.maoriculture andglowwormbushwalk, 07-343 9132;www.mitai.co.nz; byaMaori ‘enter- h hangi Whakarewarewa 6.30pm) whopresent marae Tamaki Maori Tamaki Maori hangi hangi , which does , which does h Rotoiti Tours . Mitai Maori Maori Mitai tours depart tours depart , based , based (meet- hongi hangi meals, ’ Tribal Tribal s en- ,

$65/32.50; &hangiadult/child cnr ofFroude&TryonSt;concerts p326; $60/30; adult/child$20/10,inclhangi Sts;concert & Hinemaru $30/15, inclhangi $60/30; adult/child novatelrotoru.co.nz; Tutanekai St;concerts treatments) aswellacaféand gift shop. luxury therapies(massage, mudandbeauty moreseveral commercialactivitiessuch as inthemoderncomplexarepool. Alsohoused marble-lined terraced poolsandalarger, main picturesqueseveral poolsatthelake’s edge, have swearingbythewaters been since.ever springsin1882andpeople opened atthese the Government was Gardens.Abathhouse pies from$80; adult/childper30min$17/5,spathera- adults only$17,private St;poolsmain .polynesianspa.co.nz; offHinemoa Lakefront, e h T Thermal Pools&Massage Rotorua) (Heritage Theatre Pohutu Cultural Millennium Hotel Lakeside Novotel Hotel Kingsgate Lakes area speciality. Thebooklet your legsaround Rotorua, withdaywalksa There are plentyof opportunitiestostretch Walking not toleave anyvaluables in your vehicle. get brokendoesn’t into bythieves –take care pools forfree. Atleast,itwillbefree ifyourcar where thepubliccanbatheinnaturalthermal follow itfor2km.Thisisoneof thefew places Keroseneleft ontheunsealed Creek Rdand Creek free for campers). There’s a café andcampingonsite (pools O-Tapu turn-off, andcontinuefor6km. atthesignpostopposite theWai- Turn right four private spasrangingfrom35°Cto40°C. pool there are twomore relaxing poolsand $14; pools40min public poolsadult/child/family$12/6/30,private Pools SH5 are theopen-air $22.50/11.25, inclhangi$45/22.50; adult/child Fenton.kingsgaterotorua.co.nz; St;concert ACTIVITIES There ismineralbathing(36°Cto42°C)in Approximately 30kmsouthof Rotoruaon For anaturalhotwater dip,visit h % Polynesian Spa

(Map p338 ), 26kmoutonSH5.Turn Mp p338; (Map h 10am-10pm) 0800 476488;www.pohututheature.co.nz; h 6.30pm) (Map (Map p326 ; ($2.50),available from thei-SITE, h 6.30pm) 8am-11pm, spatherapies9am-8pm) % Mp p326; (Map . As wellasthelarge main

07-333 1861;www.hotpools.co.nz; Mp p326; (Map % h (Map (Map p326 ; 07-347 1234;cnrEruera Waikite Valley Thermal Valley Thermal Waikite 7pm) Walks inthe Rotorua % h 07-348 0199;www % lonelyplanet.com % 6.45pm) 07-348 1328;www 07-346 3888; Kerosene Kerosene (Map (Map isin hours) makes forastrenuous walk upto the lonelyplanet.com Maungakakaramea of (Mountain coloured the summitof thepeakknowntoMaori as lookout at walks continueuptheKaituna River tothe 7m falls,which are popularforrafting.Other utes) native through podocarp forest tothe Rotorua onSH33,withaneasy on to (sites $7). From Tarawera Outletyoucanwalk Bay Humphries Tarawera withanovernight campateither orRuatotoLake Okataina from eitherLake Walkway,creatingOkataina atwo-daywalk ( swimming spots.The pa Soundshell Tarawera toLake Okataina the andpasses alongtheeastern shorelinegoes of Lake public transportpasttheRuato end only. Okarekaat Lake Rotoitiwith toRuatoonLake the ‘Bullring’.ThetrackrunsfromMillarRd takes inlake viewsandadrycrater knownas Walkway Okataina Western most popular–albeitnotforbeginners –isthe Oneofof the and difficulty. varyingdistance p338. on map lakefront stroll (20 minutes). townwalksincludingthepopular showcases three hours oneway (fortifiedvillage) remains, andseveral Just northof Wai-O-Tapu onSH5, The The area around The All thefollowingwalksare shown onthe The BayofPlenty’straditionalname,Te RoheoMataatua,recalls theancestral MAORI NZ: BAY OFPLENTY spy, RevVolkner,in1865inspired scenein thecharmingeyeball-eating about theirculture. StStephen’s hasHiona Church ( Opotiki p360 ) –thedeathhere ofgovernment problems rightuptothepresent day. fighting againstthegovernment suffering considerablelandconfiscationsthathave causedlegal on bothsidesoftheLandWarslate 19thcentury(see theboxed text, p36 ), withthose Tauranga, andTe Arawa(www.tearawa.iwi.nz) ofRotorua. Tribesinthisregion were involved (www.whakatohea.co.nz) Ngaiterangiarea, ofOpotiki, Whakatohea (www.ngaiterangi.org.nz) of Toi settingupwhat’sclaimedtobeAotearoa’s firstsettlementinaboutAD800. p356 ). The region’s thanthat,though,withthePolynesiansettler historystretches backfurther (seetheboxedwhich arrived aneventful tomake here landfall atWhakatane text, fromHawaiki ( p326 and ), culturalperformances Pa ( p354 ), perhapsNZ’soldest Rainbow Mountain Track Rainbow There’s asignificantMaoripopulationintheBay,andthere are manywaysfortravellers tolearn Major tribalgroupsintheregion are theNgatiAwa(www.ngatiawa.iwi.nz) oftheWhakatane Tarawera Falls Okere Falls Okere Eastern Okataina Walkway Okataina Eastern , anaturalamphitheatre thathas Hinemoa’s Steps Hinemoa’s (sites free) or ROTORUA ••Activities are about21kmnortheastof se p358). (see Lake Okataina Lake ) connects to the Eastern connectstotheEastern Northern Tarawera Track Northern (seven hours), which(seven and Tutea Caves. (oneway1½ Tarawera Outlet pa

( track three hours offers walks site. RotoruahastraditionalvillagessuchasTe Whakarewarewa hangi (30min- meals( p327 ), andmuch, )

($170) andWairoasledge(oneguideper person) $299. comboontheKaituna and Wairoa($89),asledge-raft ($82) ontheKaituna trips rafting white-water .co.nz) Offers and a gentler, more scenic trip, goodfor and agentler,more scenictrip, youngsters ($69). –foradults($110) onthe Rangitaiki and runstwotrips ($99) Takes ($85),Tongariro ontheWairoa($99),Kaituna Wairoa ($95)withsledgingonthe ($99). Kaituna ($95)and ($85),Rangitaiki ontheKaituna Does rafting taiki ($99)and taiki Wairoa ($92). ($72),Rangi- cascades.co.nz) ontheKaituna Does rafting remote parts of the Motu and Mohaka (2-5 ofthe MotuandMohaka remote parts days $395-875). to ($120)aswelllonger,helicopter-accesstrips Mokau ($89),Wairoa ($99),the .co.nz) ontheKaituna Runstrips Wet ‘n’Wild Rats River Raftabout Cascades Kaituna Adventures Kaitiaki manoeuvrable on ahighly body board. youdidn’tknow)iszoomingdownrivercase Sunday.Sledging(in second is openedevery River onlywhenthedam (GradeV),raftable (GradeIII-VI)to theRangitaiki andWairoa negotiable. Somecompanies headfurtherout of tripstake aday,buttimesare these often 7mdropatOkerewith astartling Falls. Most take ontheGradeVKaituna River, complete action aroundRotoruawiththechance to Thrillseekers canfindplentyof white-water White-water Rafting&Sledging Range. Paeroa Taupo, TongariroNationalPark andthe summit withapanoramathattakes inLake earth). There are viewsfromthe spectacular Most operators canarrange transport. ( ( % % ( % 0800 333900;www.riverrats.co.nz) 0800 723 822; www.raftabout.co.nz) 0800 723822;www.raftabout.co.nz) 0800 4627238;www.wetnwildrafting ( % ( % Utu 0800 524 8862; www.kaituna 0800 5248862;www.kaituna much 0800 338736;www.kaitiaki . Whakatane hasToi’s . Whakatane more. Mataatua canoe,

329

OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY well as freedom hire. Rotoruato Rotoiti, as down theOhauchannelfromLake paddle $40/20, hire perhr/day$20/45)offers aself-guided on the Kaituna. lessons andkayaking $149/290) offers guidedtandemtrips $150,lessonshalf/fullday half-daytrip kayaks.com; Clark, fromacoupleofhoursto multiday trips. anglerandfishingcorrespondent Harvey with experienced from$25/110)Learn tofishandshareday trip thepassion and lunch supplied. .troutfly.co.nz; fishingwithgear perday$650)Doesriver Redwoods area of theforest hasa for bikers, soadhere tothesignposts. The not alltracksin the forest are designated happyfordayson end. Notelevels that to 100kmof trackstokeep bikers of allskill trails tain bike (see p340 ), hometosomeof thebest On theedge of town is Mountain Biking Shop Sunspots Kayak Kayaks Kaituna Kayaking Adventure the waterways. Three companiescanget youpaddlingon Kayaking trip from $280). the area (boathire per2hours $190,3-hr Lakefront) p326; (Map Trout Man TroutFishing Hilton Silver Gordon Randle Clark Gregor p324). (see SITE year-round; check withO’Keefe’s orthe i- notalllakeslicence, though can befished St). from $19/96) (per day/season to troutfishorgosolo,buteitherwayalicence where around thelakes. Youcanhire guides There’s alwaysgood fishing tobehadsome- Fishing 330 Tarawera andalsooffer andOkataina; freedom hire. Rotorua,Rotoiti, onLakes trips day from$70-110)takes half-full hire perday$40,trips .adventukayaking.co.nz; supplied. .co.nz; fishingwithgearand perday$650)Doesriver lunch hr $95)Doesfly-andboat fishing. kayaking.co.nz; 391SH33,Mourea; kayaking.co.nz; Boats canbehired from Recommended guidesinclude: You canfishRotorua’slakefront witha OOU • Atvte ROTORUA ••Activities O’Keefe’s , whoalsorunlake troutfishing in % ( % ( % 0800 463925;www.manaadventures.co.nz; inthecountry.There are close ( 021 951174;www.waiteti.com;2hrs/

Mp p326; (Map % ( % 07-347 1123;www.troutnz.co.nz; per 07-349 2555;www.rotoruatrout 0800 465 292; www.kaituna 0800 465292;www.kaituna ( ( % % % 07-348 9451;www 07-362 4222;www.go (

is essential, available is essential, % Whakarewarewa Forest Forest Whakarewarewa 07-346 0178;1113Eruera

2-hr trip adult/child 2-hr trip 07-332 3488;www Mana Adventures Mana visitor cen- moun-

$14; St;admission .climbthewall.co.nz; basement,1140Hinemoa Mon-Fri, Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) 1275 Fenton perhalf/day$35/55; St;bikes At the for horsetreks onidyllictrailsaroundRotorua. Airport, withtown pick-ups available. lakes Theyare atRotorua andvolcanoes. based or 15,000ft,givingyouabirds-eyeviewof the offers skydives tandem from9000ft,12,000ft at the Another opportunitytoget limbered upis Other Activities hr/day $10/25; p326; (Map can hire bikes from Vegas arrange shuttles toget youto the park. 2hrfrom$69) 2hr/day $35/55,guidedrides per bikes 346 1717;027-2802817;www.planetbike.co.nz; cheaper rates) from you canhire bikes (includingchildren’s, for forest, pointforthebike thestarting trails, more about the area. tre races around a speedway trackwhichraces around aspeedway guaran- co.nz; 10OldTaupo Rd;1/3/5races$25/35/50) ably like 160cc trailbikes. Ifyou like this,you’llprob- roars thelocalsceneryon 50cc to though Fairy.puredirttours.co.nz; Rd;toursfrom40min$100) Springs and archery ($20for 10 arrows). offers claybirdshooting($20forfive shots) purpose-built courses. Italso ($35) through or steer ‘monster trucks’($40)andsprintcars You canziparoundina4WD($85per hour), tours bush. through the placeforself-drive % thePekathrough forest south of Rotorua. p338; farm northof Rotorua;and ices andexperiencedriders a700-acre through Valley Rd;treks 1hr/2hr$55/110) p338; north of Rotorua; ginners, andalonger tripforexperiencedriders, 1hr/2$40/70) Ngongotaha; To explore Rotoruatownship bybike, you Pure Dirt Tours Dirt Pure 20km northof Rotorua, NZONE bikesMountain canalsobehired from Several companies will help you saddle up up companieswillhelpyousaddle Several At theWaipaMillcarparkentranceto where youcanget atrailmapandlearn h 07-332 5748;www.offroadnz.co.nz; 193Amoore Rd) % %

Mp p326; (Map climbing wall noon-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pmSat noon-10pm Mon-Fri, & Sun) Farmhouse 07-346 1755;treks 1hr/2hr$50/80) 07-348 3300;www.paradisetreks.co.nz; 679Paradise

( % % Drift Kartz Kartz Drift h 07-347 9340; cnr Tutanekai & Whakaue Sts;per 07-347 9340;cnrTutanekai &Whakaue 0800 376796;www.nzone.biz; dives$249-399) 10am-late) %

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Mp p338; (Map . Paradise Valley HorseTreks 07-347 1151; www.bikevegas.co.nz; 07-347 1151;www.bikevegas.co.nz;

Mp p326; (Map ( , take ashorter tripforbe- % Lady Jane’s Planet Bike 07-345 6211;www.driftkartz. takes treks fornov- % % Off RoadNZ Off Peka Horsetreks Peka % 07-332 3771; Central Rd, 07-332 3771;CentralRd, lonelyplanet.com 027 2888243;www

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OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY amphibious, bio-fuelled, amphibious, bio-fuelled, fun fashion. inan major sitesoftownthenheadingoutontothelake inthe fromthei-SITE,taking departing 90-minute trip 1pm &3.30pmsummer,11am2.15pmwinter)Aquacker ducktours.co.nz; adult/child/family$58/35/139; on foot($149)or ($610). helibiking angu ($230/153).Add-onsincludetraversingthevolcano withWai-O-Tapuwhich combinesthe4WDtrip andWaim- landings onthesummit($435)andVolcanicEcoTour, of MtTarawera (adult/child$133/78)aswellhelicopter .mt-tarawera.co.nz) Guidedhalf-day4WDtourstothetop Volcanic AirSafaris Helipro White Islandlanding and walk-about. throughtovolcanicexplorations includinga town trips around- short 12min-4hrs$50/600)Offers Rotorua Airport; Air Discovery there’s plenty of see. Just aswellthere are onlywindow ... seats Scenic Flights Rotorua DuckTours Newmans CoachLines Mt Tarawera NewZealand LinkTours Geyser Adventures Elite hostels and hotels. take atour– book atthei-SITEorviamany To ofmake itall,orif timeistight, sense TOURS Zorb threaten tostraptroublesometeens intoa parks ( p337 failsyoucan). Andifallelse plenty of choice withaplethoraof nature lakefront. the at ( p324) steam bypedalboatfrom Rotorua DuckTours 332 and Hell’s Gate (adult/child$20/10, and Hell’sGate 2 hours). Wai-O-Tapu andTe Puia (adult/child$85/40,4½hours) Toursofmostthemajorsights,including link.co.nz) flights, andMtTarawera andWhite Island landings. includingcity Puia, ofhelicoptertrips Heliprodoesavariety andTe$89/855) BasedattheAgrodome, SkylineSkyrides around town(adult/child$113/76,$141/95, $159/107). inthree, fourandfivesights manscoach.co.nz) Tourstaking major culturaland natural attractions. someofthe full-day tour(adult/child$195/110)covering .co.nz) Twohalf-daytours(adult/childfrom$75/55)anda exploring White Islandand exploring Mt Tarawera. Thecompany also runsa3hrtrip guided tour ofHell’sGate. orcombinedhelicopter flightand and jetboatexperience includingacombinedflight flights fromthelakefront, air.co.nz; 6min-3hrs$60-800)Floatplaneand helicopter Tree-huggers andanimalpatters have ( p339 ) androllthemdown the hill. OOU • Tus ROTORUA ••Tours ( % 07-357 2512;www.helipro.co.nz; 8min-4hrs ( % ( 07-308 7760;www.airdiscovery.co.nz; % ( % ( ( below ), orunderyourown ( % % 07-347 8282;www.tour-guide ( 0800 0004321;www.geyser % 0800 800848;www.volcanic 07-345 6522;www.rotorua ( 07-343 1730;www.new % 07-349 3714;www Mana Adventures Mana h 11am,

heritage hostel wasbuiltin1936andretains 3338; www.inthezonebackpackers.co.nz; 1181 Pukaki St; 3338; www.inthezonebackpackers.co.nz; 1181Pukaki chat amongaspunkybunch of guestsand some laid-back tunesandplentyof sociable policy –whilethefunkislargely confinedto cans of paintandadedicated environmental the outsideandinside–duetoseveral 1754; 4UnionSt;dm/dfrom$22/53; for weary cowpokes. undercover thermalpoolmake itanidealspot relaxedSociable staff, lounges, courtyard,and older,they’retwins), andalthough wellkept. Jail (dorms)toMadam Fifi’sbordello(two Roomsrangespot isjustyourgunfight. from character, partner,thenthisWestern-themed dm/s/d/tw $22/37/55/50; 1210HaupapaSt; 3121; www.cactusjackbackpackers.co.nz; ofdistance the museum. spa poolandbarbecue,allwithinstrolling than sixbeds(andnobunks),plusthere’s a geothermal radiators. Dormsare nomore bathtubsand boards anddoorframes,deep historic features includingdark-woodskirting 349 3285;76Pukuatua St;dm/d&tw$21/50; action. the scene offers to manygoodoptionsclose Rotorua’s ever-expanding backpacker Budget SLEEPING café is on site. pine chalet-style doubles.The Twisted Pippie from tent sites toplainfour-bed dormsto amenities anda range of accommodation It’s relatively withacceptable quiet though, and alittlemore tired thantheaverage YHA. from town,thishostel isawayfromtheaction $21/25, dm/dfrom$26/58; 60Tarewa.kiwipaka-yha.co.nz; Rd;sitesunpowered/powered rooms. family bunkdorms todoubleand from fourtoeight homely lounge androomyroomsranging has carefully amenitiesincluding assembled but onaquietstreet, hostel thiscomfortable intown hostel hasopenedjustforyou.Right ture, tranquility-loving travellers isthatthis dm/d from$23/65; dorms are roomy.Bike hire is a bonus. bay windowsandtheirownensuites, while want whenyoutravel. Thebestdoubleshave owners whoknowwhatyouworldly-wise Kiwi Paka YHA Paka Kiwi ZoneBackpackers In The o JacksBackpackers Cactus Backpackers Rotorua Central Funky Voyager Green i Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

Mp p326; (Map ) Thegoodnewsforma- i pis ) Ifyou’re lookingfor Mp p326; (Map Mp p326; (Map % pi Mp p326; (Map

Mp p326; (Map 07-347 0931;www Onekilometre ) pi Green on ) % % % % 07-348 07-348 This ) 07-346 07- 346 3140; www.kiwiholidayparks.co.nz; OldTaupo346 3140;www.kiwiholidayparks.co.nz; Road;sites chain, thishuge hostel isever-popular with 369; www.stayatbase.co.nz; 1286ArawaSt;dm/s/dfrom and communalareas. Thefemale-only area, former shopping mallhasgenerous rooms surprisingly quiet,thisramblinghostel ina from $26/58; St;dm/d 1140Hinemoa 2040; www.basebackpackers.com; Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels this cute oldclassichas character filled motel banks of the(allegedly) trout-filled stream, intwoacres ofSet gardenandnestledonthe don’t mindashort 10-minute drive intotown. a great optionforfolkwho like itrusticand $26, dm$20,dcabins/motelfrom$45/85; sites 357 5255;www.waiteti.com;14OkonaCres, Ngongotaha; for the soakers. of opengrassyareas, plushotmineralpools café. There’s plentyof roomtomove withlots and convenience facilitiessuch asashop and tourist flats,a100-bed lodge, tents sites galore real holidayresort feel withrowsof cabinsand epic holidayparkontheedge of townhasa $26-30, dm$30,dcabins/motelfrom$45/90; and youcanboilaspudin a puddle. sites are thermallyheated, thebeach isheated Thanks tothemiracleof geothermal activity, proximity, hotmineralpoolsandbike hire. commodation, withtheattractionsof lake stream offers basicbutneatcampingandac- pis Rd; unpowered/powered sites$32/40,dunits/cottages$55/110; p326; parking ing outon.Off-street a bonus. and there’s abarbecuearea anddeckforhang- kayaks. Pricierroomscomewithensuites, with tripbookings,andstorage forbikes and eagering toget toassist outdoors, withstaff hostelwell-maintained isgreat want- forthose pi 357; www.treks.co.nz; 1278HaupapaSt;dm/d&tw$27/64-74; compensate. parking pools, large outdoorheated poolandoff-street in somedorms,butextrassuch asthermal Bar. withupto12beds Roomscanbetight, partying backpackers wholove theLava $26/60/60; cinemain and arthouse the basement. rity smarts.Bonusfacilitiesare aclimbingwall Sanctuary, andlockablewardrobesshowsecu- Base Backpackers Rotorua Base Backpackers Waiteti Trout Stream HolidayPark TroutStream Waiteti Base HotRockRotorua Rotorua Thermal Holiday Park Rotorua Thermal HolidayPark Cosy CottageInternational RotoruaBackpackers Treks % ) Bright andnew,thispurpose-built and Bright 0800 222 424; www.cosycottage.co.nz; 67 Whittaker 0800 222424;www.cosycottage.co.nz; 67Whittaker pis ) Thisgreen parkontheUtuhina i ) Justoffthemaindragand ) Another link in the Base AnotherlinkintheBase

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% 07-350 % This ) 07- 07- but stillaneasywalktothe city centre. area. noise, Thelocation isawayfromtraffic asistheswimmingpool tional andpleasant, spa andsmallkitchenettes. Roomsare func- modest placeisabudget bonanzawithpool, 1886; www.rotoruatop10.co.nz; 1495Pukuatua St;sitesfrom an ever-friendly hostwithloadsof adviceon that hasfamilycharm, homelygardens,and 526; www.jackanddis.co.nz; 21 Lake Rd;s/d/apt $99/117/250; 21Lake 526; www.jackanddis.co.nz; kitchens. full andfeature uptoseven ous sizescansleep roomsofswimming pool.Comfortable vari- pools, anoutdoorspaandalarge figure-eight fewer thanfourpools:two indoormineral town andthelakefront, thismotel boastsno a quietcornerjustfew minutes’ walkto Sts; d/ffrom$105/165; &Hinemaru 581; www.ambassrotorua.co.nz; cnrWhakaue rave reviews from former guests. fresh fruitwithbrekky andsundeckensure room tomove. extrasincluding Thoughtful is theA-frame andplentyof chalet withTV tourist tipsandaready smile. Thebestbet the well-humoured Sandiwhooffers helpful 120/130; bedandbreakfast.co.nz; 103Fairy Rd;s/d/f$60/100- Springs .sixonunion.co.nz; 6UnionSt;d/ffrom$95/150; big groups (price negotiable). available withahouse for with disabilities, courtyard spasandfacilitiesfortravellers anddo.things tosee roomsfeature Larger p www.rotoruamotel.co.nz; Rd;d/ffrom$79/129; 107Malfroy found awayfromthe main drag. and often more interesting roomscanbe motels crowdFentonGeneric St,butbetter Midrange tables. picnic fortheirshrubberyand with campervans and microwave. Powered sites are popular nick andhave kitchens withasmallfridge revamps ontheagenda. are Cabins ingood a nicenewpoolplumbedinandvariousother a continualimprovement policythathasseen small butperfectly formedholidayparkwith $34, dcabins/studio/motelfrom$60/105/90; and relaxed camping. units, compactcabins,abackpackers’ lodge Jack & Di’s Lake RoadLodge Jack &Di’s Lake Motel Ambassador Thermal Sandi’s B&B Six onUnion Ann’s VolcanicRotorua ) Rotorua Top10HolidayPark Ann’s is a unique and affordable motel Ann’sisauniqueandaffordable p ) Afriendlyfamily-runB&Brunby

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OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY www.motelrotorua.co.nz; 325Fenton St;s/d/f$90/120/170; % slide in the garden. good forfamilies, asistheminigolfanda dishwashers, large fridges andDVDs–all cious, stylishly decorated andkitted outwith heated swimmingpool.All roomsare spa- motels, includinghuge spabaths andabig, packed withfeatures you’dexpectinpricier d from$160; Palms 5StarCityResort Regal Top End huge, deep spa baths? and the lavish television, furnishings,digital relaxed holiday-maker couldtrulyappreciate and leisure traveller – whobutaalthough perfectlypitches itself atboththecorporate inspired architecture, thisfamily-owned hotel real eye-catcher fromtheroadwithitsItalian- .tuscanyvillasrotorua.co.nz; 280Fenton St;dfrom$130; kitchen make for stays. pleasant end facilitiessuch asdishwasher,spaandfull cater forfamilies orgroupsupto10,andhigh- retreat fromcentral Rotorua. Multiplerooms spotmakessecluded thislarge agood house $120/450; 5ArnoldSt,Ngongotaha; .jackanddis.co.nz; fourwouldbe though very comfortable. adults, inseven apartments cansqueeze thermally heated hotpools.Fullyequipped the studiosare particularlyattractive withtheir cloth,and individual, notcutfromthesame ries, thisexcelsatlittleluxuries.Allroomsfeel small balconiesinapartmentstoextratoilet- St;d/apt$120/180; torialodge.co.nz; 10Victoria have two-hob cook-top and fridge. fastidiously kept. Kitchens are ovenless but of wornattheedges herrooms:slightly but isproudtion unitsquieter still.Catherine rooms are reasonably quiet,withback-sec- garden outfront.Onthemainroad,roadside surrounding courtyardparkingandahomely ated motel, with12gabled,groundfloorunits p full kitchens addto the appeal. or groups.Aspapool,lazylounge areas and couples, whiledownstairs isbetter forfamilies isidealfor option. Theupstairs penthouse location make thisboutiquehotel apersuasive p 334 Tuscany Villas Troutbeck Lodge Lodge Victoria Collingwood Gables ) ) 0800 743000;www.regalpalms.co.nz; 350 Fenton St;

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d/cottage from 0800 921292; p From ) p A ) access forswimmingandfishing,luxurious degradable toiletries. The dining room serves degradable toiletries.Thediningroomserves downtothebio- mal ecologicalimpactright aslodgesprice though, are designedformini- come atanenvironmental Luxury doesn’t tofloorheatingandsuperkingbeds. TVs lodges feature comfort,frombig-screen every private, individual dering thegrounds,these wan- volcano withpeacocksandpheasants pi Rd,Horohoro;s/drfrom$840/1680;.co.nz; 351Kearoa dependable dining option. ments intownandNikau(see opposite ) isa hangi available exclusively toguests.Thepoolside theclubroom, alaid-back loungeas does excellentviews motel. roomsafford Lakefront spired thesceneforthiselegant lobbysets Sts; dfrom$315; 1234; www.millenniumrotorua.co.nz; cnrEruera&Hinemaru restaurant and street-side café. ties includecascadingmineralbaths, sauna, andallisforgiven.however, Otherameni- Sinkintothebottomless bath,Cartland. suite –perhaps toopinkforallbutBarbara rooms such astherichly decorated Marvelly coming 19th-centurydamewith50different pis www.princesgate.co.nz; 1057ArawaSt;d/stefrom$185/275; with kimono-clad waitresses andMrSashimi mains $12–22; Yamamoto Restaurants lent food, too. others allover town. Thepubsdosomeexcel- good eatingplaces,butthere are plentyof The lake endof St has astripof Tutanekai EATING meals. include grand pianoandafarmyardof animals.Rates smallchapel,ing adelightful wellnesscentre, Therehouse. are lashingsof amenitiesinclud- main building,twocottages andalarger villa Peppers suites boastsseven inastunning pis Point Rd;dfrom$1400; www.peppers.co.nz; 214Kawaha classic Kiwi drops. ditional Maori ingredients, washeddownwith contemporary NZcuisineincorporatingtra- Treetops Treetops Rotorua Hotel Millennium Hotel Gate Princes Peppers on thePoint isoneof thebetter motel entertain- ) Set inbush attheedge of Set anextinct

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(Map (Map p326 ; % % 07-348 1179; ; 07-348 4868; % 07-347 move byreputable localrestaurateurs inthis is a homely, well-run establishment serving serving is ahomely,well-runestablishment 1786; 1099Tutanekai St;breakfast $9-16,mains$13-35; .bistro1284.co.nz; 1284ErueraSt;mains$31-34; St; lunch$7-15, dinnermains$20-30; h on infromout the back. front whiletempura andudonnoodlespile preppinghimself fresh plates of fishiness out lonelyplanet.com other wholesome types. ably whythisplace ispopularwithcyclistsand with plentyof healthyoptions,which isprob- snacks,andstir-friessandwiches, tocurries, zips upallsortsof foodfrombreakfast, tasty freshtables, art,ultracoolbooths...), Zippy café withadecidedlyretro groove (Laminex snacks $4-8,mains$10-22; Zippy Central Cafés desserts. delectable dients, andbesure toleave roomforsome somegreatlent placetosample localingre- cuisine withanAsian influence. It’sanexcel- stylish NZ spots, thisintimate placeserves ner) service. star rich andwell executed. Finewinesandfive delicious fare intown– mostly meaty– and strikingwallpaper. Someof themost suburban caféwithmega-checkerboard floor & Grey Sts;mains$30–35; Wed& Glutton’s buffet Thurs ($26). as-you-like Thaifoodingenerous servings. dishes upbetter-than-average,taurant spicy- St; mains$19-28; wood-fired pizza,burgers and steaks. ing boutiqueNZingredients fashionedinto and aninternationally eclecticmenufeatur- of thehotel restaurants withaPacifica vibe Inside theMillenniumhotel, thisisthepick Sts;mains$18-32; Eruera &Hinemaru ing agood vegetarian selection. portions of allyourIndianfavourites includ- upgood-value generous able littlespotserves St; mains$14-20; sandwich with sauerkraut. meaty Euro-food such asburgers andpork Lewisham’s Restaurant Relish Bistro 1284 Urbano Amazing Thai Nikau Restaurant India Lovely Definitely one of RotoVegas’ hotdining 9am–late)

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With paw prints up the walls and silly poems With pawprintsupthewallsandsillypoems local artworkon the walls. smoke. Amodernandrelaxed interior with on delicate spices,aromaticherbsandwood breakfast, pizzaandthelike, withakeen eye noodles insoups and stir-fries. pleasant meaterypleasant inthemiddleof town Tutanekai St;meals$7-13; & Amohau Sts; Fenton St; there’s thechoice of If you’re whippingup yourownmeals Self-catering mous brandsof icecreams on offer too. some churned onthespot,withother fa- sory stopbythelake foraconeof icecream: 347 9340;1092Tutanekai St; Mon) 1148 Tutanekai St;mains$8-16; biscuits. home-baked ian options,plussmoothies,icedcoffee and goodqualitykebabs, goodvegetar-serving Kebabs Mecca Quick Eats other tasty hot foods. its excellentblackboard menuof brekkies and andcakes pastries,salads met sandwiches, and for cabinetscrammedfullof delicious gour- in sizeyetalwaysbusywithdiners showingup Sun, dinnerTue-Sat; 8818; 1181ErueraSt;mains$16-19; courtyard and street-side seating. along thelinesof lambandvenison. Sunny upmore refined food candlelitandserves goes it andintheevening andsandwiches, salads day itdishes upbigbowlsof brekky, nachos, est andmostchild-friendly eatery. Duringthe painted onthechairs, thisisthetown’sfriski- Arawa St;mains$12-30; the coffee is excellent. school classics withnew-fangled fancies,and and jambalaya. Counter snackscombineold- withmintandfeta, twist: vanillarisotto,eggs breakfasts andoffers disheswithawelcome refreshing caféisespeciallygoodforalfresco a fairlyquiet,leafycornernearthelake, this Sts;mains$12-21; & Whakaue Wed, 8am-lateThu-Sat) Lady Jane’s Ice Cream ParlourLady Jane’sIceCream Weilin’s NoodleHouse o Fat DogCafé Lime Caffeteria A neat and tidy shop serving oodlesof Aneatandtidyshopserving h Capers Epicurean Capers 24hr) h

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OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY % tle make forqualitysuppingwhileamenuof a dozenEuro-beers and42inthebot- ontap in townforlovers of gigsandgoodbeer. Half 348 6190;1151ArawaSt; a nocturnal crowd. ends youmayfindbandsandDJsplaying to 11am-late Sun) Arawa St;mains$15-36; but thistimeál’Anglais.ThePheasant prof- St; adult$14) basement,1140Hinemoa 1400; www.sirius.net.nz/basement; ies, while Eruera St;adult/child$13/9) 1930s-style cabaret show. h www.princesgate.co.nz; 1057ArawaSt;show&meal$69; late-night action,headto and Chambers regularly hostbands.For Several local pubs such asthePig&Whistle ENTERTAINMENT in or sipabeer the sunshine. enjoyed outsidewhere youcanpeople-watch from thelake-side, longbarisbest thissleek Seismic With justtheleafyparkseparating mains $20-34; meals alongthelinesof steak-and-ale pie. pluscheery Murphy’s andGuinnessontap, it includingcivilizedclientele, Kilkenny, A proudIrish pub with much torecommend mains $9-20; with Yorkshire pud. with bangers ‘n’mashandnon-stopcarvery fers locallybrewed along andBritish beer, you tostickaroundandsupa few more. meatballs, mash,and spare-ribs toagluten-free vegetarian toastie. in town.Theirmenurunsthegamutfrom upsomeof thebestsimplegrub while serving garden,live beer musicThurs/Fri/Sat), TV, which toenjoytheirSwinglager (big-screen offerslice station aconducive atmosphere in cellent microbrewery pubin theformerpo- & Tutanekai Sts;mains$16-25; with Euro-stylepubswell represented. There are afew good spotstoslake yourthirst, DRINKING 336 07-347 6776;1263Pukuatua St) Pig &Whistle Reading Cinema Reading Hotel Gate Princes Seismic Seismic O’Malley’s Plucker Pheasant andBar Café Chambers Belgian 7.15pm Fri &Sat) 7.15pm Fri OOU • Dikn ROTORUA ••Drinking Mp p326; (Map shows art-house and showsart-house foreign films. h Basement Cinema h Anotherplaceforaproperpint,

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Auckland, Wellington,Christchurch and hkrwrw (p2 hv eclet se- excellent have (p326) Whakarewarewa souvenirs. ceramics andjewellery.Plentyofaffordable, packable includingcarvings, andgifts NZ-made pluscraft artwork, 1189 Fenton St; jewellery and carvings. greenstone handcrafted Specialises inhigh-end, 1280Fenton.jadefactory.com; St; connections to other destinations. Christchurch and Wellington,withonward Sat) Sts; & Hinemoa Air NewZealand Air GETTING THERE&AWAY lections of genuine Maori-made arts. Feather Gallery Raukura/Red Out ofNewZealand Jade Factory crafts willbe clearly labelled. MaoriGenuine andotherNZ-madearts has anabundance of giftsandsouvenirs. the Being tourist centre of NZ,Rotorua SHOPPING by booking in advance. hours). fare Substantial savings can bemade ($24, three hours), andWellington($49,6½ 1½ hours), Taupo ($19,onehour), Napier Tauranga ($9,1½hours), ($24, Whakatane ($24, 1½hours), Waitomo($49, 2½ hours), ices toAuckland($39,3½hours), Hamilton Wellington ($90, hours).eight one hour),Napier($64,three hours), and Opotiki ($31,2¼hours), andTaupo ($26, 1½ hours), Gisborne($57,4½ hours) via Tauranga ($30,1½hours), ($31, Whakatane ($56, fourhours), Hamilton ($40,1½ hours), .co.nz) and arrange bookings. the i-SITE(see p324 ), fromwhere youcan All themajor buscompanies stopoutside Bus withonward Queenstown, connections. ings, greenstone jewellery and clothing. includingwoodcarv- craftwork, ofMaori wide assortment Sts; cnrTutanekai &Haupapa 1193; www.nativeartsnz.com; Naked Bus Naked Qantas To thesouthof town,Te PuiaandTe InterCity offers dailydirect toAuckland, flights h run daily buses toandfromAuckland rundailybuses Newmans 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat&Sun)Hasa 9am-5pm Mon-Fri,

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% Mp p326; (Map 07-348 0366;www.intercitycoach.co.nz) 9am-6pm) Stockspredominantly 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 07-348 0999;www.newmanscoach (Map p326 ; p326; (Map % % 07-349 3968;www h Mp p326; (Map 07-343 1100;cnrFenton fliesdirect to % runs dailyserv- lonelyplanet.com 9am-6pm) 07-346 296; % 07-349

attractions withpick-upsatmosthotels return andinclude entry fee. Wai-O-Tapu Village($50).Fares ($50)andtheBuried are .co.nz) east. The airportisabout 10kmoutof towntothe To/From theAirport GETTING AROUND lonelyplanet.com Springs Rd; adult/child$24.50/14.50; Springs 724 626,07-350 0440;www.rainbowsprings.co.nz; Fairy to nativedevoted wildlife. Nature Parks NORTH OFROTORUA AROUND ROTORUA ( You cangrab acabfromeither Taxi Rent-a-Dent Budget Avis following: the fierce sothere are bargains tobehad.Try In Rotoruacar-rental competitionis Car Tim’s Shuttle Thermal LinkTourService Geyser itcosts;goodforgroupsup to goforwhatever to 14. ableadventures.co.nz) youwant Runsasmallbuswherever Adventures Affordable hostels: and and Tauranga (adult/child $11/6.50). ($2),theairport($2)($2), toNgongotaha aroundtown operates localbusservices Rotorua Cityride offer courtesy pick-up and drop-off. many tions, askabout theirshuttle services: If you’re tryingtoget aroundlocalattrac- Bus Monday an airportbusservice to Saturday. tre costsabout$25. for $35perperson. fromthecitycen- Ataxi 454 678;luxuryshuttles.co.nz) tional passenger. $15 forthefirst person and$3foreach addi- Paradise Valley Springs (return $20). GoestoWai-O-Tapu.geyserlink.co.nz) (return $25)and Surrounding Rotoruaare places several % Rainbow Springs Nature Park Nature Springs Rainbow shuttlesrunaroundthetown’s Several ( 07-348 1111) offers for adoor-to-door airportservice % Super Shuttle (Map (Map p326 ; 07-345 7133;RotoruaAirport) Mp p326; (Map or ( AROUNDROTORUA ofRotorua ••North % % Fast Taxis

( Luxury Airport Shuttle Luxury Airport % 0800 422928;www.baybus.co.nz) 07-348 8127;1230Fenton St) ( ( Cityride Cityride % % % 07-345 7790;www.supershuttle offers similar services offers similarservices ( % 07-349 3993;14Ti St) 0274 945508)Goesto 0508 278946;www.afford ( % 0800 0004321;www (see below)runs (see h Mp p338; (Map 07-348 2444). 8am-10pm) Rotorua Taxis (

% % isa 0800 0800

Ngongotaha areNgongotaha twowildlife parks.Eight the incubation area before walkingthrough into display,thentake asneaky peek museum about thebirdsin hawk andowl.Learn ing three threatened NZbirds:thefalcon, child $15/5; 4469; www.wingspan.co.nz; 1164Paradise Valley Rd;adult/ (fed at 2.30pm). alpaca,possumsand aprideofdeer, lions and variousland-dwellinganimals such as park withtroutsprings,bigslippery eels, .co.nz; adult/child$22/11; p338; (Map kilometres fromtownis pig. log-rolling Charlottejack action,andmeet theincredible the chips flyatthree dailyshows of lumber- milkorfeedanimals andeven them.Watch with guidedandfreedom the walkstomeet after asliceofplace forthose rural Kiwilife walk &show$25/12; 171Fairyberjack.co.nz; Rd; touradult/child$22/10, Springs Experience Auckland. and central RotoruaonSH5towardsHamilton (see p328 Springsis3kmnorthof ). Rainbow Maoriwith theneighbouring Mitai Village fered are specialjointfour-hour tours evening theoutdoorkiwienclosure.through Alsoof- colourful illuminationsandachance towalk and hatchery areas. theactualincubator through you tiptoeing on theexcellent45-minute tours thathave preparedBe foranemotionalroller-coaster people tryingtosave themfromextinction. greatlyonly these endangered birds,butthe fers visitors arare intothelives peek of not project. Itof- cant non-profit conservation recovery programme– a nationallysignifi- on thehr10am-4pm) (www.kiwiencounter.co.nz; adult/child$27.50/17.50; birds such askea, kaka and pukeko. rainbow lorikeets, andinteresting native troduced speciessuch wallabies, emusand along theway.Animalsabound,bothin- for wanderingswithinterpretive displays the underwater viewer. There are walkways from whichwild troutandeels, youcansee the parkare thenaturalsprings,hometo must-do fornature-lovers. Attheheartof In Paradise Valley atthefootof Mt Across the road, the Springscomesalive with atnight Rainbow Wingspan Birds of Prey Trust Wingspan BirdsofPrey of the parkis The highlight h %

Mp p338; (Map 9am-3pm) 07-348 9667;www.paradisevalleysprings h , hometoNZ’slargest kiwi shows 11.30am,1pm&3pm) % isdedicated toconserv- h 07-349 0380;www.kiwilum 8am-5pm) Paradise Valley Springs Mp p338; (Map Kiwi Lumberjack Kiwi asix-hectare Kiwi Encounter Encounter Kiwi % is the 07-357 h 337 tours

OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY 338 (12km) To Treetops (745m) Ngongotaha Mt 4 2 6 1 3 2 5 AROUND ROTORUA 5 4 (4km) Valley Springs To Paradise Pyes Pa(45km) To Taurangavia 9 14 RUDRTRA • rudRtra AROUND ROTORUA ••AroundRotorua 10 Ngongotaha 24 Auckland (126km) Hamilton (106km); To MamakuBlue(20km); Waikite Valley 30 32 33 ROTORUA ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ 29 11 7 AC 12 30 30A 28 19 Paeroa Range Rotorua 13 Lake 5 23 Map (p326) See Rotorua 15 Whakarewarewa Forest

To Taupo ὈὈ

18 22 Tarawera Mokoia Island Rotorua (30km) Airport Green Lake

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To RakeiaoMarae(1km); Trip To Murupara(26km); 30 Okataina Track Mountain Rainbow Lake Rotoiti Tours(1km); Whakatane (60km); Gisborne (301km) Rerewhakaaitu Rd Okataina 26 27 Lake Tarawera Island Patiti Lake 0 0 Walkway Okataina Eastern 38 16 Ruato Rotomahana Lake SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Wingspan BirdsofPreyTrust..... Village...... Waikite ValleyThermalPools..... Wonderland...... Wai OraSpa...... (see20) Tikitere (Hell'sGate)...... Te Puia...... Tamaki MaoriVillage...... Sunspots KayakShop...... Soundshell...... Skyline Skyrides...... (see14) VisitorCentre...... Rainbow SpringsNaturePark..... Pure DirtTours...... (see10) Planet Bike...... Peka Horsetreks...... Off RoadNZ...... Mountain Action...... Mitai MaoriVillage...... Lady KnoxGeyser...... Kiwi LumberjackExperience...... Kerosene CreekThermalArea...... Hinemoa's Steps...... Farmhouse...... Buried VillageofTeWairoa...... Agrodome/Agroventures...... 3-D Maze...... Whakarewarewa Thermal Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Redwoods GiftShop& Zorb...... (see 2) rubc og...... A2 Waiteti TroutStream Troutbeck Lodge...... Tarawera Outlet Humphries Bay Clearwater Charters...... HolidayPark...... CampingGround...... Sandi's B&B...... Rotorua ThermalHolidayPark... Peppers onthePoint...... CampingGround...... DOC CampSites...... Blue LakeTop10...... TRANSPORT SLEEPING Tarawera Northern Mt Tarawera(1110m) Track Rerewhakaaitu Tarawera Forest (erupted 1886) Rerewhakaaitu Lake Tarawera Kaingaroa Falls Hongi's Hinehopu Track Forest Crater lonelyplanet.com 31

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Ash Pit Rd 6 miles 10 km 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A2 B2 A3 A3 B5 B6 B2 A3 B5 B2 C3 A3 A3 A4 A4 A2 A3 A2 B6 A3 C6 B1 A1 B4 B4 A2 D4 A3 A3 A3 C3 C5 B4 5840; www.mamakublue.co.nz; Maraeroa Rd, Mamaku; tours Rd,Mamaku; 5840; www.mamakublue.co.nz; Maraeroa about sheep duringaone-hour extravaganzaabout sheep visited this You mayfindgrapesoverrated onceyou’ve Blue Mamaku 2pm flying display. the the all-weatheraviary. Gointimetosee lonelyplanet.com souvenir shopand theBarking Dog Café. attractions include awoollenmilldisplay, including, among others, Otheragro- sheep. andpersonal’‘up close withfarmanimals plays. Thefarmtour allowsachance toget auction, andshows shearing dis- anddoggy that paradeschampion rams,runsalivestock 3.40pm) 9.30am, 11am&2.30pm;tours10.40am,12.10pm, 1.30& $30/15/70, show$24/12/65,tour&$46/23/99; .agrodome.co.nz; visitthe culturally important, there are lotsof deals for combos. Prices thatfolloware forsingleactivitiesbut Rotorua onSH5(courtesy shuttleavailable). hive of entertaining activities,9kmnorthof ventures.co.nz; WesternRd,Ngongotaha) Agroventures Agroventures mountain. the restaurant, acaféandwalkingtracksaround ofspeeds upto160km/h.Alsoatthetopare a swing, ascreaming theairat swooshthrough antics,trythesky speedier again). Foreven ing backuponachairlift (todoitallover down onthree different tracksbefore com- luge onwhich youcanscootpart-wayback panoramic viewsof thelake andaspeedy uptoahill-topofcruises funwhich features $27.50, skyswing$30/20; Rd;gondolaadult/child/family$23/10/55,luge5rides Springs p338; (Map is Swinging upMtNgongotaha Skyline Skyrides Rd. It’swell signposted. Rotorua; take SH5andturnoff ontoMaraeroa documenting thehistoryof the area. which hasacollectionofmuseum photos a tourandfindoutmore, andvisittheupstairs chocolates,sauces, vinegars andliqueurs. Take suchblueberry delights aschutneys, jams, andalsoonoffercious dailytastings, other $16, museum$2; Mamaku Blueis20kmnorthwestof Starting withsomethingeducationaland Starting . Learn everything you need toknow youneed everything . Learn % blueberry winery 07-347 0027;www.skylineskyrides.co.nz; Fairy

Mp p338; (Map % h AROUNDROTORUA ofRotorua ••Northeast 07-357 1050;adult/child/familytour 9.30am-5pm) h % 9am-11pm) 07-357 4747;www.agro

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5pm Apr-Nov,to7pmDec-Mar) Rotorua is available. manuka tea. Acourtesy shuttle to/from bath, spaandone-hour massage, plussome $230/175) treatments. TheUltiMUD package you canrelax withavarietyof mudandspa bath &spaadult/child$70/30,1hrmassage$130) ing, Tikitere the alsohouses moko atwork,learnabout flaxweaving, carver hemisphere. Here a master youcanalsosee largest hotthermalwaterfall inthesouthern track tothevariousattractions,including coversserve 10hectares, witha2.5kmwalking Shaw. TheimpressiveBernard geothermal re- name originates froma1934visitbyGeorge girl jumpingintoathermalpool.TheEnglish away), remembering thetragedy of a young tere nei Tikitere isanabbreviation of (SH30). Rotorua ontheroadtoWhakatane $25/10; p338; Known asTikitere toMaori, Tikitere &WaiOraSpa NORTHEAST OFROTORUA water thrown in. in anddry,orfreestyle withawholelotof or the180mzigzag.Doyourzorbstrapped you. There are twocourses: 150mstraight, Youreyeshavesome speed. notdeceived filled spheres bouncingandrollingdownat hill withwhatlookslike large, clear,people- this attractionbythegrassy trackdownthe Zorb splashing arounda1km man-made course. allegedly NZ’sfastest and jetboat,speeding ofat speeds up to 60km/h. capsule andpedalyourself alongrecumbently velodrome fromwhich youhanginaclear to thishubisthe on acolumnof wind.Thenewestaddition lates skydiving byblastingyou5mintotheair Xtreme try with friends.Ifthat’snotenough, a 130km/hswingthatcanbeenjoyedaloneor and the the 43m home tomore adrenalised actionincluding Alongside isthe Next doortotheAgrodome is Long regarded byMaori asaplace of heal- Across theroadfromAgroventures isthe % ( % (tattoo) andother (tattoo) Maori traditions. h

(www.swoop.co.nz; 2/4min$49/79) (Myyoungest hasfloated daughter 07-345 3151;www.hellsgate.co.nz; SH5;adult/child includes entry to the reserve, mud includes entryto thereserve, 0800 227 474; www.zorb.co.nz; $49; 0800 227474;www.zorb.co.nz; Swoop bungy 8.30am-8.30pm) (www.swoop.co.nz; adult/child$45/35)

(www.rotoruabungy.co.nz; adult$90) Schweeb Agrojet is16kmnortheastof . Youwillidentify (adult/child $45/35), ($45),amonorail Wai OraSpa Hell’s Gate which simu- Taku tiki i Agroventures (adult/child h where Freefall Freefall 9am- (mud

339 (Map (Map ta ta

OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY southeast of townonTarawera Rd.It’shome % ley toTe WairoaFalls, where theWairoa River excavatedbeen and reconstructed. was blamedforthe destruction.His (priest) TuhotoAriki who,accordingtosome, particular interest isthestoryof the tion andincludesaninteresting shortfilm.Of several Rotomahana Hotel, ablacksmith’sshopand such asthe the 19thcenturywithhighlights tion, creating anoddtimecapsuleof NZin thebuildingssubmergedcan see bytheerup- the 1886eruptionof MtTarawera. Here you tooccurinNZthelast150yearsevents – the site of oneof themostdramaticnatural ily $26/7/52; and Green isthe Lakes, Tarawera thepretty Road,which passes Blue kilometresFifteen fromRotoruaonthe Buried VillageofTeWairoa biking tain (see p330 ). town foritsenjoyable andaccessiblemoun- picnics, andisacclaimedwellbeyondthe items. ofing agoodselection hand-crafted wooden about theforest. There’s alsoashop featur- where youcanget mapsandviewdisplays 10am-4pmSat&Sun) to5pmApr-Sep; 5.30pm Mon-Fri, p338; (Map from the Blue andGreen Mostwalksstart Lakes. Grove the wanderthrough from ahalf-hour park its grandeur today. redwoods Californian thatgivethe mighty the butit’s NewZealand), throughout (as evident cessfully fortimber. pineproved ahit Radiata which couldbegrownsuc- from 1899tosee to over 170tree species,originallyplanted This Whakarewarewa Forest SOUTHEAST OFROTORUA makes apleasant picnic spot. that entertains kidsforanhourortwoand h Park Three kilometres beyondtheairport, 3-D Maze 340 07-362 8287;www.buriedvillage.co.nz; adult/child/fam- Clearly signposted walkingtracksrange A small museum tells thestoriesofA smallmuseum theerup- There’s ashort theval- bush walk through Aside fromwalking,theparkisgreat for 9am-5pm)

RUDRTRA • otes fRtra AROUND ROTORUA ••SoutheastofRotorua Mp p338; (Map forest park forest to anenjoyablewhole-dayroute tothe whare % h Redwoods Gift Shop & Visitor Centre Shop&Visitor Gift Redwoods isa3-D,1.7km-longwoodenmaze 07-350 0110; Long Mile Rd; 07-350 0110;LongMile 9am-5pm Nov-Mar, to4.30pmApr-Oct) 9am-5pm Nov-Mar, (houses). %

Mp p3 www.rdc.govt.nz) p338; (Map 07-345 5275;adult/child$7.50/5; buried village buried h Mp p338; (Map whare

tohunga is3km Redwood Redwood Te Ngae 8.30am- has ,

Holiday Park Humphrey’s (free). Bay Tarawera Outlet(adult/child $7/2)and (adult/child $8/4)onTeBeach Bay, Rata cabin $93-182) .co.nz; 723 Tarawera Rd;sitesunpowered/powered $32/36, and a general store. ofwith apromise gourmetpizza,agardenbar located café overkayaks, aswelltaking thewonderfully folks were bringingonboardpedalboatsand drive boatsavailable. Attimeof printthese trips aboardavarietyof vessels, withself- andtroutfishing which runssceniccruises runabout$165-195) per hrcruisevessel$280-485,self-drive 8590; www.clearwater.co.nz; Tarawera; 537SpencerRd, Lake Here you’llfind about2kmpasttheburiedvillage. Landing, and fishing, cruises nature walks. lake ispicturesque andgoodforswimming, both thespears burnt.The andhuthadbeen and onreturning found thefollowingseason visiting hunter wholefthisbirdspears inahut Tarawera means‘BurntSpear’,namedbya Tarawera Lake for unsuitable young children. The endof slipperyand thetrackissteep, drops 30mover of aseries rockyoutcrops. Wie Terraces. White andtheformer site ofcliffs thePink and hour boattripon thelake, paststeaming back uptowhere or take youstarted ahalf- fromwhereLake’), youcaneitherget alift Rotomahana(meaning‘Warm down toLake hot springintheworld.Thewalk continues reach 80°C,andFryingPan thelargest Lake, Crater where Lake, overflowing water can mal andvolcanicfeatures, includingInferno ther-the valleyyou’llpassmanyspectacular the water here. refers tothedark,muddycolourof much of geological terms. Waimangu(BlackWater) Mt Tarawera in1886,makingityoung to 6pmJan) $30/7.50, boatcruise$37.50/7.50; touradult/child 366 6137;www.waimangu.com;walking interesting This Waimangu VolcanicValley SOUTH OFROTORUA facilities. good Taking theeasy downhillstrollthrough There are A goodplacetoaccessthelake isatThe wascreated duringtheeruptionof ’ offers lakeside campingand , ( Sofia’s % DOC campsites thermal area 07-362 8120;www.bluelaketop10 Clearwater Charters Charters Clearwater ( % 07-362 8595; h Blue Lake Top10 Blue Lake (off Map (off Map p326 ; atHotWater

lonelyplanet.com 8.30am-5pm daily, h ( % 10am-7pm) 07-362 % 07- The DOC booklet The DOC Waters’, isoneof themostfamous of the Track (4.45pm in January). marked admissionisat3.45pm turn-off. Last (towards Taupo) andthen6kmfromthe drive southfromRotorua,14kmalongSH5 lonelyplanet.com are basic amenities. town to the parkisMurupara, where there atTeoff WhaititoMinginui.Theclosest to Te Urewera NationalPark; take theturn- of SH38ontheway Rotorua,with accessoff areas (fourdays). which canbecombinedwith walks isthe the WhirinakiRiver, whileoneof thelonger about walkingandcampingin the park. Whirinaki Forest Park office area best sourceof informationis The tracks varyinginlengthanddifficulty. areArea and ArahakiLagoon also here. streams and rivers. TheOriuwakaEcological canyons, waterfalls, lookouts,andmany there ismuch here more including tosee of NZ’sfinestpodocarp forest, although The exceptionalfeature of thisparkissome Whirinaki ForestPark from themarked turn-off. on SH5(towardsTaupo), andafurther2km makes forareasonable pit stop. has alarge shoppingarea andcaféwhich an hour. Afairlycommercialattraction,it at 10.15amandgushesupto20mforabout prompting fromanorganic soap)punctually Geyser Knox mud, stunningmineralterraces andthe boiling, multi-hued tures packed intoasmallarea, includingthe Ithasmanyinterestingthermal reserves. fea- $27.50/9; % Also southof Rotorua, Wai-O-Tapu ThermalWonderland the office. DOC Waimangu isapproximately a20-minute There are easilyaccessible several A goodshort walkisthe You canexplore theparkviaanetworkof Wai-O-Tapu is27kmsouthof Rotorua Whirinaki Forest Park is90kmsoutheast 07-366 6333;www.geyserland.co.nz; adult/child (three tofourhours), which follows and12 h , which spoutsoff (withalittle ( 8.30am-5pm) % Whirinaki Track Whirinaki backcountry huts WESTERNBAY OF ••TaurangaPLENTY 07-366 1080) Tramping &Walksin Champagne Pool , meaning‘Sacred ($2.50)gives details Wai-O-Tapu (twodays,27km), inMurupara. ($5-10);payat Waterfall Loop Waterfall DOC Rangitaiki DOC Rangitaiki Te HoeTrack Mp p338; (Map , bubbling camping Lady and maps,visit 7476; 50 Devonport Rd) 7476; 50Devonport porary art, it houses apermanent collection porary art, ithouses the town. Presenting historicandcontem- itisto opened itsdoors and whatanasset & WillowSts;admission bydonation; p342; (Map In 2007,theeagerly awaited Sights luggage lockers anda jobs board. 578 6983;75Grey St; hostels butalsoat Rd& Devonport First Ave) from the p342; (Map here. passes tickets. Youcanalsoget DOC tion, makes InterCity bus bookingsandsells 9am-4pm Sat&Sun) ofplentynz.com; 95WillowSt; Tauranga i-SITE as NZgets. water sportsaplenty,thisisabout asRiviera with beautifulboats,sandy dreams. Withtwomarinaschock-a-block to newwealth and homogeny. Maunganui andPapamoa have woken up suburbsof andtheonce-sleepy Mthigh, the revamped waterfront, fancyhotels rise andbarsas ashowpony.Restaurants line rebornwho have theoldworkhorse seen (many fromAuckland)andholidaymakers land formilesaround,butit’sthemigrants the cities. Theincreasingly busyportserves and remains oneof NZ’sfastest-growing Tauranga boomingsincethe1990s hasbeen pop 112,000 TAURANGA activities andlashings of sunshine. day forgenerations, lappingupsalt-licked havewhere NewZealanders comeonholi- inland asfartheKaimai Thisis Range. toMaketuthe coastfromWaihiBeach and ofThe Western Bay Plentystretches along PLENTY WESTERN BAYOF Information Internet accessisreadily available from The localNZpostbranch isat Tauranga istheplacetofulfilallyourwet % % AA office 07-578 7933; www.artgallery.org.nz; cnr Wharf cnrWharf 07-578 7933;www.artgallery.org.nz; 07-577 9911;17Grey St)

Mp p342; (Map offers localtouristinforma- h Dymocks

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Mp p342 ; (Map 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 07-578 8103;www.bay Tauranga Art Gallery Gallery Tauranga Art which alsohas % surf beaches and

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07-578 2222;cnr maps andhut . Forbooks 10am-4.30pm) % Take Note % 07-927 341 07-

OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY the Bay ofthe Bay Plenty.Furnished inperiodstyle, for reflection anda little epitaph-reading. Marsh Street andDive Crescent –agoodspot etery buildings inleafy grounds.The mission it sitsamongother well-preserved Sat, Sun&publicholidays) % an hour or so. poke intothevideocube,willtake yournose ground andmezzaninegalleries,with astopto Touringthe (cue:applause!). ous compromise an altogether excellentspacewithnoobvi- you’dhardlyknowit bank, although – it’s isaformer ing exhibitions.Thebuildingitself along withfrequently changing localandvisit- 342 CENTRAL TAURANGA Built in1847, 07-577 9772; Mission St;admission$5; 07-577 9772;Mission ETR A F PET • Tuag WESTERN BAY OF ••TaurangaPLENTY lies notfaraway at theintersection of EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Wharf StreetRestaurant D3 Harbourside CityBackpackers.. Zeytin...... &Bar...... Turkish toGo...... Mediterraneo Café...... Little India...... Fresh FishMarket...... Collar &Thai...... Bravo...... Tauranga YHA...... Tauranga ontheWaterfront.. Roselands Motel...... Puriri ParkBoutiqueHotel...... Loft 109Backpackers...... Hotel onDevonport...... Harbour CityMotorInn...... Tauranga ArtGallery...... Robbins Park...... Monmouth Redoubt...... Elms MissionHouse...... Dive HQ...... Cargo Shed...... Brain WatkinsHouse...... Tauranga i-SITE...... Take Note/NZPost...... Cyberzone...... Automobile Association(AA)... Elixir...... Dymocks...... Te AwanuiWaka...... Waikareao Estuary Elms Mission House Elms Mission istheoldestbuildingin 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 D2 D3 D4 D3 D3 D2 D3 D3 D3 B3 D4 C1 C2 D4 D3 C3 D2 D2 D1 D1 C1 C3 D2 C3 D2 C3 D3 C3 D4 TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING onrtn u...... D2 Cornerstone Pub...... Bus Terminal...... (see5) Bay HopperBusStop...... Air NewZealand...... Rialto...... (see 23) Buddha Lounge...... Baycity Cinemas...... De BierHaus...... Baycourt...... Crown &Badger...... h mission cem-

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catamaran. Kayaks availablefor catamaran. Kayaks non-swimmers. onan 18m seasailing.com; adult/child$120/85).Runstrips $100; adult/child Rd,MtMaunganui; .com; 90Maunganui Backpackers in Backpackers Mount Maunganui. inTaurangaHarbourside Backpackers orMountCentral pamphlet, includingthefascinating lined inthefree Mt Maunganui, anumberof which are out- There are manywalksaroundTauranga and WALKING Activities lonelyplanet.com are snapperforyour suppertimetoo. Aday- as marlinandmako sharks, there although life and fishing –especiallybiggamesuch ofThe Bay Plenty isrenowned foritsmarine DIVING ANDFISHING Vagabond South Sea Dolphin Seafaris against nucleartestingat Atoll. Mururoa withCap’nButler,areal oldsaltwhoprotested particularly are alwaysentertaining, without dolphins,thetrips h www.swimwithdolphins.co.nz; adult/child$125/100; Butler’s SwimwithDolphins swim oreven to see with them. in summer. operators offer achance Several with blessed theoddwhale dolphins andeven The waters aroundTauranga are particularly SWIMMING WITHDOLPHINS flying fox, playgroundand pony rides. which hasfamilyfunsuch asanimalpetting,a 543 1099; FallsMcLaren is .govt.nz) Tauranga CityCouncil andcampsites $100 pernight) ($10).Contact basic modernhostels (capacity18to28,$70 great trees andpicnicareas. There are three off SH29,isa170-hectare lakeland park,with River valley,15kmsouthwestof Tauranga just winter, to7.30pmsummer) Park Day Walks pamphlet in DOC’s for theintrepid. More informationisprovided basic camping(sites free to$5,huts$5$10) 43km northwestof Rotorua, withtrampsand Park is therugged 70km-long BaseTrack Mauao Estuary Walkway The backdrop to the Western Bay ofThe backdroptotheWestern Bay Plenty McLaren FallsMcLaren Park leaves Tauranga 9.30am)Even 9am,MtMaunganui , 35kmsouthwestof Tauranga onSH29,or h forbookings.Alsoaccessiblefrom trips leave8amsummer,9amwinter). Bookat trips h 10am-2pm Wed&Thu,to4.30pmSatSun)

(9km, twohrs) andthepopular ( WESTERNBAY OF ••TaurangaPLENTY (3½km, 45 min). % ($1.50). Tauranga City Walkways Marshalls AnimalPark Marshalls ( 0800 3268747;www.nzdolphin

( % (admission free; % , foundintheWairoa Kaimai Mamaku Forest 07-579 6376;www.south 07-577 7000;www.tauranga Kaimai Mamaku Forest Forest Mamaku Kaimai ( % 0508 288537; h 8am-5.30pm Waikareao Waikareao ( % 07- surely paddles along12kmof flatwater, runs the river, offers freedom kayakhire forlei- Tuhua Island ontheTSOhorere, MVTe Kuiaand MV Ratahi. ocean.co.nz) Fishing, including divingandsightseeingtrips diving trips onceamonth,onthe diving trips MV Manutere. and Dailyfishingtrips .taurangamarinecharters.co.nz) 7 runabout. 7m ona fishinganddivingtrips xtra.co.nz) Runssmall-group courses and trips; movingpremises attime courses andtrips; of print. .co.nz; from$100)Runsdiving coursesfrom$500,trips os o p329. on tors Youcanfind alistofsential. raftingopera- advancebookings aredays of es- the year: trolled byadam, socanonlyberafted 26 thrill-seekers. are TheWairoa’slevels con- it’sdefinitelyalthough arafting tripfor Tauranga, particularly ontheWairoaRiver, White-water rafting ispopulararound WHITE-WATER RAFTING &SLEDGING are children in tow. great placetospendallday,especiallyifthere course, warmpoolsandwildlife spotting–a such asariver kayakslide,lowropes cruise, Waimarino haslotsof otherfun thingstodo into asecret glow-wormfilledwonderland. Fallsjourney atMcLaren Park where youslip istheglow-yak–amagicalafter-darkever, kayakingtrips.Thebestkayaktrip,how- sea unguided tours fromfurtheruptheriver, and $85, parkdaypassadult/child$37/29), .waimarino.com; 36Taniwha toursfrom Pl,Bethlehem;kayak Park Adventure Waimarino ing, withsomethingforpaddlers atalllevels. The WairoaRiver isagreat placefor kayak- KAYAKING Charters Tauranga Marine Fat BoyCharters Earth2Ocean HQ Dive Blue OceanCharters Bay Fishing Charters trips ontheNimbleIIoutofMount trips Maunganui. Fishing,rangafishingcharters.co.nz) divingandsightseeing and reefs, plus gear rental. from $95)PADI-qualifying tolocalwrecks coursesortrips tauranga.co.nz; 213CameronRd;coursesfrom$600,trips you with bookings. chartered by thehour. Thei-SITEcanassist ing andfishing trips,mostof which canbe dozen charter companiesoffer diving,cruis- 24-hour tripsforaround$120.More thana companiesofferingper person, withseveral long fishing tripwillcostaround$70to$90 (Map (Map p342 ; ( % ( 07-571 5286;www.earth2ocean % % ( ( 07-575 5986;fatboycharters@ % % 07-578 4050;www.divehq 0800 224278;www.blue 0800-229 347;www.tau ( % ( % 07-552 6283;www onthebanksof 07-576 4233;www

343

OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY art market withlotsof localartandcraftfor Tauranga Tandem Skydiving ing outof aplane... ormaybetheywon’t. by boat, kayak, mountain bike mountainbike by boat,kayak, and horse. anenticingarrayofadventure tours from $75/100)Offers and White Island. afieldtoWaitomo,Rotorua further scenic toursandtrips adventure.co.nz; toursfrom$130)Half-andfull-daylocal over WhiteIsland and Mt Tarawera. Tauranga 1-1¼hr fixed-wing flights $299)Offers Airport; Air Discovery Waitomo andWhiteIsland, basedin Te Puke. tours from6min$59)Local flightsandexcursionsasfar Helicopters Aerius trips. most There are numbers minimumpassenger for Tauranga’s airport isatMtMaunganui. thei-SITE orattheairport. pades through with café on site. h ( want toconsiderdroppinginto While you’re outattheairport,youmay SCENIC FLIGHTS Company Touring Tauranga Tasting Tours Mount ClassicTours BayofPlenty Adventure Tours from 8000to 12,000 feet. Cape, Island, MountRuapehu andtheEast Way;from$220) 7990; 2Kittyhawk and -inspired wares. of includingagoodselection Maori-madesale Dive Cres; p342; (Map want toconsidercallingintothe gear for hire. ing, powerboatingandjetskiing,have $20) sonline.co.nz; KulimPark, lessonsperhrfrom Otumoetai; Watersports to get safely intotheaction,visit If you’re newtowater sportsandwant 344 Mills Reef, Morton Estateandback totown Morton Reef, Mills for cocktails. ingtours.co.nz; tours$130)Whips aroundalocalbrewery, Coromandel. around theregion andasfarWaitomothe .co.nz; tours$60-185)Half-andfulldayguided OHR ACTIVITIES OTHER % Landlubbers might alsoconsiderjump- might Landlubbers intownontheweekend might Landlubbers You canbookthefollowingaerial esca- 7.30am-5pm) . Theyoffer windsurf- tuitioninsailing, 07-572 4000; www.classicflyersnz.com; 8 Jean BattenDr; 07-572 4000;www.classicflyersnz.com;8Jean ETR A F PET • Tuag WESTERN BAY OF ••TaurangaPLENTY h % 10am-4pm Sat/Sun), Mp p346; (Map ( 07-552 5555;www.thecargoshed.org.nz; 5 % , a fascinating aviation museum , afascinatingaviation museum 07-575 7588;www.airdiscovery.co.nz; ( ( % % ( % 07-577 0057;www.newzealand 0800 864354;www.aerius.co.nz; % ( 07-574 1779;www.mctours % ( % 0800-486 729;www.element 07-544 1383;www.tast with viewsof White the town’screative 0800 238267;2hr/day Mp p346; (Map Classic FlyersNZ Cargo Shed Cargo % Elements 07-576 maintained, clean maintained, and tidy. The amenitiesare abitpokey, butit’sallwell gardens. sites andpleasant with nicegrassed is agoodoptionfortenters andcampervans friendly placewhere youcanbelefttoyour tours of town and trips toWhiteIslandandthe tours oftownandtrips Rotorua Lakes. .co.nz; Tauranga flights10min/3hr$95/695)Does airport; and food galore. withconcerts big blowersandscoobee-doobee-doobop, of AnEasterextravaganza .org.nz, www.ticketdirect.co.nz) library make itarelaxed spot,withshuttles Comfyroomsandafulsome own devices. pi 1366; www.justtheducksnuts.co.nz; 6Vale St;dm/d$21/50; Just theDucksNutsBackpackers BUDGET Sleeping other things arty. numbered years),showcasing dance,comedy,playsand (inodd- inOctober offonLabourweekend Kicking FestivalTauranga Arts National JazzFestival onthecalendar events including: withseveral This townisnoculturaldesert, Festivals &Events Volcanic AirSafaris M*A*S*H ChopperScenicFlights Gyrate groups. There’s nocar park,butdown the Strand’s bars. Rooms are small, butgoodfor this sociablehostel withhandy access toThe dm/d&tw $23/64-70; 579 4066;www.backpacktauranga.co.nz; 105TheStrand; days there’s agasfire inthe common area. plusoncolder roof. withskylights, It’sbright nies inupperrooms,andaboatbuilt intothe its intimate kitchen andlounge, rooftop balco- i Rd;dm/d/tr$23/54/60; 109Devonport www.loft109.co.nz; $45/70; St;unpowered/powered sites$22/24, cabins/flats 9 Mayfair flats uptheback,which are more private. lets are prefer fun,butoldercouplesmight the planted inthebathtubandduck-themedtoi- to thecity.Quirkytouches such asflowers sky), fromlocal,scenicflightstolearn-to-fly packages. ofthe from$80)Flightsinagyroplane(thejetski Airport; Lips Houlihan.City and surrounds. butwithoutHot 12min/20min $110/120)AsseenonTV Tauranga4077; www.kiwikopters.co.nz; flights Airport; Harbourside City Backpackers Harbourside CityBackpackers 109Backpackers Loft Tauranga Park Tourist ) This centralspothasthefeel of aflatwith p ( ) Justoutof thetowncentre, thisis a % ) Located ontheharbouredge, this 07-575 6583;www.gyrate.co.nz; Tauranga Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ( i % ( (www.taurangafestival.co.nz) ) % 0800 737700;www.volcanicair Enjoysea-views from Mp p342; (Map

Mp p346; (Map 07-577 7188;www.jazz Mp p346; (Map

( Mp p342; (Map % % % 07-572 07-579 5638; 07-578 3323; % % 07-576 07- backyard complete with hammocks for those backyard complete withhammocksforthose d $26/62; .co.nz; [email protected]; 171Elizabeth St;sites$34,dm/ time. right road isapubliccarparkthat’semptyatthe lonelyplanet.com p 007; www.thetauranga.co.nz; Ave; 1Second d/ste$150-295; touch, ratherthanthebig bold hotels. who prefer exclusive luxurywiththepersonal popular withbusinessandleisure travellers and secure parking,thisupmarket hotel is balcony), king-sizedbeds,spas,heated pool With large rooms (allwitheitherterrace or 1480, 08004787474;32CameronRd,ste$130-225; advice on your itinerary. offer soundlocal room.Friendlystaff in every andbusinessdesk cons such asaspabath,TV ing, thisnewish motor innhasallthemod p St;dfrom$125; 50Wharf www.taurangaharbourcity.co.nz; and otheruseful domestic gadgetry. fully equippedwithironingboards,hairdryers have spabathandkitchen facilities,andare basketball hoopandtrampoline. Allrooms ties forfamiliesincludingswimmingpool, andexcellentfacili- glass forpeacefulsleeps town, thistidymotorinnhasnoise-reducing ps Fifteenth Ave; www.ambassador-motorinn.co.nz; d/f$105/160; few daysatthis motel. affordable and barbecuemeanyoucouldeasilyenjoya cooked meals(byarrangement), a spa pool and otherfamily-friendly features. Home- that hasroomyunitswithkitchens, highchairs old-style motel inaquietbutcentrallocation lands.co.nz; 21BrownSt;d/stefrom$105/135; Roselands Motel MIDRANGE rental is available. butallroomshavetas, fullkitchens. Kayak Ground-floor roomshave lessimpressive vis- spacious units,thebestwithharbourviews. p 7Fifth Ave;www.harbourviewmotel.co.nz; s/dfrom$75/105; and comecomplete with individual lockers. are thedormsare spot-on,though inviting spots onaboardwalk.Camping walk through lazy daysandanearbymangrove swampto Tauranga onthe Waterfront Park BoutiqueHotel Puriri Ambassador MotorInn Motel Harbour View Harbour CityMotorInn Tauranga YHA ) ) ) Thisslick placehasexcellent harbour-view Inthemiddleof townwithplentyof park- Thislarge, oldercomplexhasavarietyof ) Located ononeof themainroads into i ) Awell-kept YHA withabiggrassy

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) wtrs edge. water’s upfresh onthe fishandchips right serving Cres; mainsfrom$5; .hotelondevonport.net.nz; 72 Devonport Rd;d/ste$150/200; 72Devonport .hotelondevonport.net.nz; wood-fired pizzaandafew exotic surprises. home-made breads, dips andhealthysalads, alongthelinesofeveryone kebabs, delicious Real food,real cheap, withsomethingfor –areal Turkishdelight. they’ll nameZeytin name theirfavourite restaurant, andodds-on $10-20; themostepic even satisfy of appetites. kebabs; tasty thelarge onesshould serving $6-12; Rd;kebabs Devonport bright and breezy. fee, pancakes andgelato, are delivered all smoothies andhome-mademuesli,pluscof- healthy, withsomegluten-free options.Juices, 10; torial drinks tofollow.Youcanpickuptheadver- places onTheStrandexcelatdinnerand Rdisthe place tograb lunch,Devonport but Eating edge swimming pool. include anunder-utilised gymandinfinity and luxuriousintones local cuisinescene. Roomsare super-sized and promisingtobecomeakey playerinthe restaurant,in-house allglassandsharpedges, trendy plushgreys toHalo, –leads off the contemporary style–retro white vinyland near theharbourbridge. Aslicklobby inthe hotel isonthewaters’newest high-rise edge hotels.com; 51DiveCres; dfrom$180; whether you’re working or relaxing. internet andcomfycouches sotheroomssuit ury weekenders. Allroomsfeature broadband which appealstobusinesstravellers andlux- ing glassforsilenceinthecitycentre, allof bayviewsandnoise-reduc- rooms affording pi onDevonport Hotel TOP END get youin the mood. rooms have deluxe spabaths thatwilldefinitely andperfect sexy forromanticgetaways. Some suites, recently refurbished andlookingsleek, Zeytin Zeytin toGo Turkish Elixir Sebel Fresh FishFresh Market h Dinefind breakfast &lunchMon-Sat) h ) The Devonport istopofThe Devonport thetownwith

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OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY 346 Auckland (205km) Park (5km); Waimarino Adventure Winery (3km); To MillsReef 4 6 1 3 2 5 TAURANGA &MTMAUNGANUI

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13 Rd lonelyplanet.com kumara and theirfamouslicorice ice cream. clude wildrabbit terrine, duck withcoconut disheswithout beingtoo fussy. in- Stand-out the bestNZingredients, impressively executed made from treat. seasonal, Thefoodishighly Cottage isanelegantvenue forthatspecial andowner-operatedBay for20years, Somerset ner Tue-Sun) 6889; 30BethlehemRd;mains$32-35; a refreshingly unpretentious dining room. in served sive winelistandgoodvalue seafood, alone, butgets downtobusinesswithitsexten- Wharf Street couldlive itsharbourviews off St;mains$20-30; 8322; Upstairs,8Wharf This placehasgoodvalue lunch specials. plentyof anduses fresh standards seafood. end eatery thatartfullyelaborates onThai daily) Rd;mains$20-25; Devonport Mall, especially for lunch specials. offershouse thebestvalueonTheStrand, ent nationwidechain, thisflavoursome curry mains $14-18; onthe side seating street. pedestrianised pizza andfreshly-squeezed juices.There’s out- breakfast, wood-fired salads, flash sandwiches, garded restaurant spotfor andbarisapleasant h crowds can be frantic. with sandwiches,flansandcakes. Lunchtime off theblackboard orfromthecabinetstuffed and scrumptiousall-daybreakfasts. Order regulars enjoyinglashings of terrific coffee 4pm Sat,8am-4pmSun) Rd;mains$12-18; Devonport Elements Watersports...... Classic FlyersNZ...... Assault...... Mt Maunganuii-SITE...... Beachside HolidayPark...... Baywatch MotorInn...... Ambassador MotorInn...... Tauranga TandemSkydiving...... Mount SurfShop...... Mount SurfMuseum...... Hot SaltwaterPools...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION o &Bar Restaurant Street Wharf Collar &Thai Little India Bravo Café Mediterraneo breakfast, lunch&dinner) Notierequired atthisupstairs, upper- Mp p342; (Map Themostawardedrestaurant inthe Somerset Cottage h

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Supa Travel Express Express Supa Travel Bay Hopper Naked Bus Naked ( 07-577 0445; www.rialtotauranga.co.nz; Goddards Mall, 07-577 0445;www.rialtotauranga.co.nz; GoddardsMall, % ETR A F PET • M anau WESTERN BAY OF ••MtMaunganui PLENTY 0800 545455;www.islandair.co.nz; Tauranga Airport) . ( % Coastline Shuttles % 07-578 8103)

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( Bay Hopper % % runs dailyserv- 07-541 0888;www Baycity Cinemas 07-577 7300;cnr runson- ( ( % % 0800 Island 07-

more womanlyapproach, try 575 3792;lessons2hr/2-dayclinic$80/150) .ritepricerentals.co.nz; 25TotaraSt,Mt Maunganui) information and bookings. Salisbury Ave; The friendly Information luxury hotels studding the spit. increasing numberof imposingapartmentsand flock totheMountinsummer,suppliedbyan artificial surfreef openedin2005.Sun-seekers stillwhenits100m saucier and wasmadeeven mous forthebeautifulbeaches, oneeitherside, is often justcalled‘theMount’,orMauao. It’sfa- the township, Mt Maunganui Mountain) (Large Named forthemassive 232mhillthatdominates pop 18,600 MT MAUNGANUI Tauranga MountTaxis Mount Taxis Citicabs costs around$16.Localtaxi companies: Rentals Price Rite Rent-a-Dent in Tauranga including: isavailabletable from the i-SITE. There’s acentral stopatWharfSt.Thetime- including MtMaunganui andPapamoa. mit. The summitwalktakes aboutanhour trails walking that theyoperate onlyinsummer. ( lesson$45). 1hr surfing Assault 139TotaraSt). .mountsurfshop.co.nz; visit the more aboutsurfinginthearea (andbeyond) perienced surfer Rebecca Taylor. Tolearn ½hrlessonsinclallgear$50/80) .nzsurfschools.co.nz; or Rd; ( To hitthewaves, headforthe the beach MoturikiandMaunganui. between there’ssurf city,though topswimmingon The MountcanclaimtobeNZ’spremier Sights &Activities Ave) % %

The mountain itself canbeexplored itself via The mountain For more escapades,try salty fromTauranga’sA taxi centre totheairport Numerous car-rental agencies have offices rental per day wet suits/body boards/surfboards $15/20/30) rental perdaywetsuits/bodyboards/surfboards New Zealand Surf School Surf New Zealand 0800 7244759;www.bigskyparasail.com; $65-85) 07-575 9133; www.mountsurfshop.co.nz; 96 Maunganui 96Maunganui 07-575 9133;www.mountsurfshop.co.nz;

( ( % % Mount Surf Museum Mount Surf 07-575 7831;24Pacific Ave; www.assault.co.nz; ( (Map (Map p346 ; 07-577 0999) h % , arounditandup tothesum- Mt Maunganui 9am-5pm) 07-574 7555) (Map (Map p346 ; ( % % willassistyouwith 07-578 1772;19Fifteenth 07-578 6086) %

( i-SITE Learn tosurfwith Learn

( % % 0800 250251;www lonelyplanet.com 021 477873;www Mount Surf Shop MountSurf Hibiscus Hibiscus 07-927 7234;www (

% Big SkyParasail , runbyex- 07-575 5099; ( . Fora . Note % 07-

www.pacificcoastlodge.co.nz; Rd; dm/dfrom 432Maunganui the base ofthe base theMountalsomake upthe from thei-SITE( opposite ). Theislandand the which isjoinedtothepeninsula. Checkout climb aroundtherockson and gets steep nearthetop.Youcanalso Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels location: close tothebeach anda merelocation: close stagger tired and slightly A tight hostel, redeemed by Rd;dm/dfrom$25/35; backpackers.co.nz; 87Maunganui with jungle murals. decorated roomy andpleasant, throughout discouraging boisterousness. Bunkroomsare withcurfews sleep, who wantagoodnight’s ficiently run,cleanhostel isthepickforthose $24/35; Pacific CoastLodge&Backpackers BUDGET higher than Tauranga. particularly apartmentstyle–withprices destination withplentyof accommodation – Mt Maunganui isahugely popularholiday Sleeping windsurfing on small carts. first purpose-built forland-based course 15min $15; Rd,Papamoa; 176Parton 572 4256;www.blokartheaven.co.nz; aircraft anda Spitfire replica. working an aviation withseveral museum .com; Tauranga adult/child$10/5; Airport; Classic FlyersNZ forwingnuts, Also attheairportisamust-see joy-rides andcharters aroundthewaterways. craftoutofseater theairportandoffers short aviation.co.nz; perpersonfrom10min$30) 7am-7pm Sat & Sun). & GloucesterRds;adult/child$6/4; 575 0276;www.baywave.leisurecentre.co.nz; cnrGirven wave poolandhydroslide,visit For traditionalswimmingpoolactionplus 8am-10pm Sun&holidays) Adams Ave; adult/child$9/6.50; a soakatthe and Papamoa withafocuson Maori history. runs guidedwalkingtours aroundtheMount ( Novemberbetween andJanuary. pohutukawa trees whenthey’re blooming Base Track % Mount Backpackers For speedsters, there’s Tours Hovercraft After allthatwalkingyou’llhave earned 07-575 6961;www.mauaotours.co.nz; toursfrom1hr$25) Tauranga Walkways

pi h , offering viewsof spectacular the 10am-6pm summer,noon-5pmwinter) ) Notfarfromtheaction,thisef- hot saltwater pools hot saltwater ( %

( % 07-572 4000;www.classicflyersnz atthefootof theMount.

( % 0800 737700;www.adventur 07-575 0860;www.mount Blokart Heaven Blokart h pamphlet, available h WESTERNBAY OF ••MtMaunganui PLENTY 6am-10pm Mon-Sat, Moturiki Island Moturiki

operates a six- ( 6am-9pm Mon-Fri, 6am-9pm Mon-Fri, %

( Baywave Baywave % h Mauao Tours Mauao 0800 666622; 07-575 0868; 9am-4pm) ( ( , NZ’s % %

Mauao i 07- 07- , ,

) p Rd&Pacificbellemotel.co.nz; Ave; cnrVictoria d/f$115/160; walk fromtheshopsandbeach. Roomsare $60/100; .mountbednbreakfast.co.nz; Rd;s/dfrom 463Maunganui affordable spotwithpresentable, iftight, affordable plex of two-andthree-bedroom apartments, Pde; apt$200-320; Belle Mer TOP END families. for and barbecuearea makingitagoodoption king-size beds,compactkitchenettes, apool modern, spaciousandimmaculate, with ps Rd;d/ste$160/200; watchmotorinn.co.nz; 349aMaunganui barbecue and courtyard areas. ily roomswithlarge bathtubs,plussheltered inside withespeciallygoodtwo-storey fam- allmodernandairy family-run motel goes for rods anddinghies family fun. front rooms.Friendlyhostsalsooffer fishing plustherefor self-caterers, are viewsfromthe to retune yourafro. Fullkitchens are perfect and lounge, andbathroomssizableenough ture, with wooden shelving kitchen between here payshomage to from$100; courtyard 27a TheMall; Westhaven MIDRANGE helpful. and butowners noise, arecop sometraffic friendly rooms andcooked breakfast. Frontrooms and astripof good eateries. pools cilities, plusit’shandytothesaltwater campingwithalltheexpectedspectacular fa- Maunganui, thiscommunity-runparkhas camping areas of allnestledintothebase Mt Ave; sitesfrom$30; of thebeach more than compensates. too cosyforsomeguests,buttheconvenience and adedicated mayprove boatpark.Cabins ciable feel withbarbecues,trampolinesforkids ps corner.co.nz; 40OceanBeachRd;sites$26,cabins/dflats$50/70; activities including surf lessons. boogie boardsandbikes forhire, anddealson away fromtherestaurants andbars. There are Baywatch MotorInn B&B Mount Maunganui Mission BelleMotel Mission Beachside HolidayPark Cosy CornerMotorCamp ) WithadistinctlySpanish exterior, this ) )

Thisfamilycampinggroundhasaso- AnArtDecocharmer afew minutes’ pi

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( % 0800 100235;www.bellemer.co.nz; 53Marine 07-575 4753;www.westhavenmotel.co.nz; ps ) Thisfive-room B&Bisan p

( ) Aclassybeachside com- % ) Withthree different ( Brady Bunch %

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0800 202434;www.mission ( %

% ( 0800 229928;www.bay p % 07-575 5899;www.cosy 07-575 4471;1Adams The1970sstyle ) 07-575 4013;www architec- 349

OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY h shops, serving consistently kebabs, tasty ca- shops, serving $6-12; combo of swish andstylewithadefinite dulge ingourmet goodiessuch asvenison and largely toadeep-pocketed hipcrowdwhoin- Mount’s mostfamous restaurant, catering note of Pacifica-rustica, theAstrolabe isthe $12-18, dinner$22-32; Wednesday. to melange. Discountdinners fromMonday flavours ratherthanresorting toabland ite withabargain tasty bite thatmaintains place isalocalfavour-you-can-eat Chinese lunch $12,dinner$17-18; and divine counter selection. it foritsfree-range andham,greek eggs salads available alfresco butit’sabsolutely worth seat, inthedoororpouncewildlyonany yourself café. It’ssopopularyou’llhave tocrow-bar ing about inthekitchen atthis award-winning the artof savouring finefood,there’s noslack- salad-freak and meat-eater. tering fromthefelafel-lover toeveryone to given potato) a (sweet refreshing treatment. suchwith Kiwistandards aslambandkumara butinterestingspot keeps itsmenuaffordable 12.50, lunch$9-13; healthy optionssuch asjuices and salads. brekkies andallthat,of course,butplentyof wretchedfrom allthose wraps).There’s eggy wiches, mindyou,butstillawelcomechange makes anicesimplesandwich (gourmetsand- unlike virtuallyanyplaceformilesaround, 12; at theMauao endof Marine Parade... stripofthe high-density super-duper delights plenty of goodeatingoptions,youdiscover Just whenyouthinktheMounttownship has Eating &Drinking and in-room laundry. longer withaproperworkingkitchen stays, soft edges, andhave for youneed everything are tastefully decorated inwarmtoneswith the fabulousresort-style poolterrace. Rooms you’llprobably berecliningthough around opening outontoprivate courtyards,al- viewsandotherssome withbalconysea 350 Gusto Zambezi Kwang Chow Slow Fish Astrolabe toGo Turkish h 7am-5pm) h ETR A F PET • Aon arna WESTERN BAY OF ••AroundTaurangaPLENTY 9am-4pm)

( lunch &dinner) % ( Knownasslowforitspromotionof %

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% ( 07-575 5675; % A cheap andcheerful caféwhich, 07-575 4202; 108 Maunganui Rd;snacks$4- 07-575 4202;108Maunganui

07-574 2949; Marine Parade;07-574 2949;Marine mains$10-18; h ( ( 07-574 8155; 82 Maunganui Rd;brunch 07-574 8155;82Maunganui % % breakfast &lunch) h 07-575 8090;6AdamsAve; kebabs 07-575 5063; 241 Maunganui Rd; 07-575 5063;241Maunganui Oneof afamilyof kebab h

200 Maunganui Rd;breakfast $5- 200 Maunganui brunch &dinner) lunch &dinner) Thisfriendly Aclever Thisall- DJs on Friday nights. DJs onFridaynights. blokey Irishpubwithregular live musicand 3135; 2 Rata St) 3135; 2Rata 249 Maunganui Rd;adult/child 249 Maunganui $14/8). Tuhua (MayorIsland) AROUND TAURANGA pools. hot to theMount,stoppingati-SITEand 422 9287) at MtMaunganui i-SITE. Tauranga.Intercity allserve stop Theirbuses airport isat Mt Maunganui. fortheMount.Taurangatransport details via Te Maunga onSH2.See p348 bour bridge fromTauranga orfromthesouth You canreach MtMaunganui acrossthehar- Getting There&Away Texas hold-em poker tournaments. and quiznights ontap, with NZboutiquebeer Hotel Mellick you stumbleacrossalive bandorDJs. isthepuborbarwhere,tertainment withluck, down,yourbestbetforen- Once thesungoes Entertainment andawhack ontap beer of pool. oysters. Youcanalsocomeinforaboutique shore (fortheexperienced only)and enjoys cluded white-sand surfbeaches onitseastern harbour, Matakana Island islacedwithse- sideofmore Tauranga orless,theseaward Twenty-four kilometres longandforming, Matakana Island including BlueOcean Charters ( p343 ). charter companieswilltake youtotheisland food (there are boat nofridges either).Several only abarbecueforcooking;bring your own dation witha$5 from DOC, landing fee. Board andtolandhere permission youneed The area ismanaged bytheTuhuaTrust and thenorthwestcornerisamarinereserve. thenow-overgrowncut through crater valley, predator-free islandin2006.Walkingtracks including aclutch of kiwi,introducedtothe glass-like obsidianrockanddiverse birdlife Tauranga. Theislandisknownforitsblack, dormant volcanoislocated 40kmnorthof Commonly knownas Mayor Island,this Supa Travel, CoastlineShuttles and Go tothemovies at There’s limited

( % buses runfromWharfStinTaurangabuses 07-579 5493;sites$10,dmfrom$10) is a slightly less blokey isaslightly Irishpub ( % 07-574 0047; 317 Maunganui Rd) 07-574 0047;317Maunganui camping andlodgeaccommo- Rosie O’Grady’s Cinema 4 Bay Hopper lonelyplanet.com (

for public 07-572 3311; ( % (

% with 07-575 Mount isa 0800 0869) centre youcanalsotake the Ueaa River. Uretara scribed withhaikuverses, which followsthe walkingroutea pleasant pastboulders in- but youcanalsotake a $2.50 (aswellasdoingothergooddeeds), 9.30am-5pm) Omokoroa, though youcannotvisitthe Omokoroa, though passenger $3/22.50; the Plenty explore itisonatourwith a laid-back islandlifestyle. Thebestwayto Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels rounds, with plentyof activitiestokeep every- from $20/40; www.sapphiresprings.co.nz; Rd;sites$30,dm/d HotSprings eral farmstays available. countryside surroundingKatikati, withsev- Accommodation isscattered aroundthe SLEEPING Chardonnay. famous andstock-ups.Trytheopen fortastings located onSH2,8kmsouthof Katikati, and maps and illustrative works. (NZ titlesaspeciality)aswellprintsof early books shop which holdsrare andout-of-print Rd, Gallery roast lunches and dinners, too. and Maori serving crafts.There’s acarvery of micro-shopsincludingaquiltingsupplier sphere. There’s alsominigolfandabarn-row largest bottlecollectioninthesouthernhemi- history, somemoabonesandreputedly the an engagingmixof Maori artefacts andUlster $4/3; SH2 &WharawharaRd;adult/child$6/4,minigolf Rd; Centre of ‘themuraltown’.The the town’sbuildings–henceitsmoniker history withcolourful intheworld,andcelebrates thissettlement This smalltownwastheonlyplannedUlster pop 2900 Katikati permission. without Sun) Sapphire Springs HolidayPark Springs Sapphire Estate Morton Booklovers shouldheadto Museum Heritage Katikati h h sells aguidetothevariousmuralsfor sells ferry h by arrangement. Fromtheinformation (see (see p344 ). Alternatively youcancatch 10am-5pm Wed-Sun)

9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pmSat,10am-2pm 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri,

( ( 9.30am-3.30pm) % %

( p % , oneof NZ’sbigger wineries,is 07-552 0925;www.titles.co.nz; 21Aongatete 07-549 1658; www.katikati.co.nz; 36Main 07-549 1658;www.katikati.co.nz; ) 0274 927251;onewaypassenger/car& Averdant parkinpeacefulsur-

h ( % runs 7.45am,2pm&4pm) traceslocalhistorywith 07-552 0795;SH2; , a second-hand book- , asecond-hand guided tour murals Katikati Information Katikati

( % WESTERNBAY OF ••AroundTaurangaPLENTY Adventure Bayof Adventure

( Haiku Pathway Haiku onmanyof % 07-549 0651;cnr Titles Book 07-549 0768; h

( % tastings from 07-549 marae ,

budget motel maybeoneof the town’s .co.nz; &Fairview Rds;d$80-95; cnrMain Road; meals$12–22; and ribeye respectively. dinner runspricily alongthelinesof panini with admirable Devonshire teas. Lunch and restaurant butmakes isabittwee amends villa surrounded byelegantgardens,this Tue-Sun; dinner from6pmTue-Sat) St;lunch$13-29,dinner $24-38; Mulgan convenient main road location. made foodandthebestcoffee intowna soup, quiche, sandwiches and cakes. erous portionsof home-madefoodsuch as on themainroad,especiallyifyoulike gen- 5km northof townforthis cracker littlecafé h Rustic Pumpkin EATING moonshine. of is includedintheprice,asodddram ders ontheoutsidegashob;abigbrunch no kitchen either,soenjoyone-potwon- door baths There’s andcandlelitevenings. electricity-less, soindulge inwood-fired out- SH2.Twoprettyoff cottages sitriverside, simple pleasures atthisruralidyll,notfar Re-ignite yourromanceorjustsimmerin 202ThompsonsTrack;d$200; .warmearthcottage.co.nz; including slippers and fresh coffee. have extrasbeyondbrassbedsandDVDs, pacas wanderingthegrounds.Luxuryrooms a real farmexperience,withquailandal- viewsofits namewithsweeping thebay.It’s chard 10kmnorthof townandlives upto inadiverseThis neatlittleB&Bisset or- lodge.co.nz; 901Pacific CoastHwy;dfrom$170; and dinnerare also available. players and,inlarger rooms,spas.Breakfast ing neatroomsthatincludekitchenettes, CD motel isopposite theKatikati Motel, offer- Rd;d/f$109/149; .co.nz; 78Main budget-watchers. the well kept andremains asolidoptionfor It’s oldest, butitstillhasaspaandsauna. a kid’s slide. volleyball, minigolfandthermalpoolswith one busy:bushwalks,barbecues,playgrounds, Twickenham Homestead Twickenham Pyjamas Katz Cottage Warm Earth Panorama Lodge Motel View Kaimai Motel Katikati 8am-4pm) It’swellworthgoingtheextra ( %

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% h

( 07-549 1924;603SH2;lunch$8-17; ( % ( % % 07-549 1902;cnrSH2&Beach 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) 07-549 0385;katikati@ihug 07-549 1882;www.panorama 07-549 0398;www.kaimaiview ( (

% % ps Inacentury-old 07-549 1383;cnrSH2& 07-549 0962;www Thismodern h ) 9.30am-3.30pm p Home- ps ) This 351 p )

) OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY 0444; you canvisitMatakana on the ferry. on Main Rd. lar, soyoucan’tblamefolkfor moving in. beyond thesheltering dunesare trulyspectacu- thebeaches community aboutthem.Thatsaid, streets, partsof Papamoa have theairof a gated Burgeoning onpristine withbignewhouses paddock ortwoalsodestinedforsubdivision. edge of nowbyjusta theMount,separated Papamoa isafast-growing suburbnearthe pop 7460 Papamoa lookout isabout4kmup the road. Puna andturnoff southonMindenRd;the ofBay Plenty.Toget there, take SH2toTe Tauranga, there’s asuperbviewbackover the From MindenLookout,about 10kmwestof Minden Lookout pools andcheery gardens. a widerange of accommodation,thermalhot $55/150; www.omokoroa.co.nz; 165OmokoroaRd;sites$34,cabins/units Holiday Park Omokoroa Thermal parks,including are acoupleof campervan riversidebeach and pleasant There reserve. mer spothasharbourviews,asafe swimming Just 22kmwestof Tauranga, thispopularsum- Omokoroa grub includingpizza and steak. all-day restaurant serving and theLanding pub, withoccasionallive musicandkaraoke, meals $15–32; 352 Talisman &Bar Hotel Self-caterers willfind Self-caterers information centre (Mayand June)andoddjobsatothertimes.harvest CheckthenoticeboardatTe Puke visitor opposite ). 360 (see visitKiwi the goldfruitwithitssmoothcomplexion. Tolearnmore aboutthekiwifruit, Today theZesprians thecommonfuzzy-covered growtwotypesofkiwifruit: green fruit,and theminthe1950s.generous sizes andbeganexporting the Chinesegooseberry– they were engineered alotsmaller then,butcannyKiwis themtomore considered munchedthem.As ripewhenthemonkeys theymigrated toNZ,theywere renamed it’snowonderthelocals arethick oftheaction, fondofthisfruit. The humble earns NZoverkiwifruit abilliondollarsevery year,andwiththeBayofPlentyin HOT FUZZ h ETR A F PET • Aon arna WESTERN BAY OF ••AroundTaurangaPLENTY For visitorsafter workaroundthearea adollarortwo,there’s –mostof itduring always kiwifruit Following inthefootsteps of champagneinFrance,thefruitwassexilyrebranded theZespri. The fruit’sorigins are inChina,where peachbecause itwascalledthemonkey they were pis 7am-9pm) h breakfast, lunch&dinner) justsouthof thetowncentre ) ,

a family-oriented parkwith

( above workacrossNZcheckout www.picknz.co.nz.) orforhorticulture

( % Woolworths 07-549 3218; 7 Main Road; 07-549 3218;7Main

From Omokoroa ( % Thelocal 07-578 0857; (

% 07-549 the same buildingasthe the same public library. St; stodgoramas andtheoddindependent café. beyond itscaravan-park origins,withan primedandpriced-uppark thathasbeen visitor informationcentre workers theboxed (see text, below ). The when there’s plentyof workaroundforwilling World’, abusytownduringthepickingseason of theWelcome tothe‘KiwifruitCapital pop 6775 Te Puke precinct and seafood specialities. bigbrunches onthebeachfront, serving right mains $13-33; with free coffee and apple tea. big smallkebabs bigger bigones, andeven $8-12; Rds; kebabs bach holiday,relaxed to andclose the beach. cane-ware interior, offers ataste of theKiwi with itscorrugated-iron exterior andtasteful motel.co.nz; 224Papamoa BeachRd;d$100-240; villas. self-contained array of accommodationoptions,including Rd; sites$34-68,villasfrom$170; 572 0816;www.papamoabeach.co.nz; 535Papamoa Beach come from? What exactly does itcontribute to come from?Whatexactlydoes on yourkiwifruitknowledge. Where didit Te Puke offers arare opportunity tobrush up SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES h Bluebiyou toGo Turkish Beach HouseMotel Papamoa BeachTop10HolidayResort The slightly creepyThe slightly 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSat) 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, (Gravatt Rd) h

( % 11am-late) h ( % 07-572 2099;559Papamoa BeachRd; has aslewof international lunch &dinner) ( 07-542 1404;cnrBeach&Domain % 0800 429999;www.beachhouse isacasualrestaurant

( Fashion Island % 07-573 9172; 130 Jellicoe 07-573 9172;130Jellicoe p lonelyplanet.com wraps upvery ) isamodern islocated in pis shopping

( % Te Puke Te 07- , )

of theKaituna River, tocute tours of akiwi- jetboatridesonagorgeous stretchhalf-hour .kiwi360.com; 35YoungRd,offSH2;adult/child$20/free; .kiwi360.com; all theanswers andmore. Sittingamongst h you eatthatbrown, fuzzy skin? NZ’s culturalandeconomiclife? Andshould Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels left onto Maketu Rd,you’llfind yourselfat Te SH2through By taking Puke andturning pop 1000 Maketu situated forthose passing through. motel onthemainroad,well sented isright $99/120; included in the price. property. Deliciousbreakfast provisions are garden –sitsatbackof Mel andSharron’s with arelaxing deckoverlooking itsown p which isavailable fromthe visitor centre. inthesurroundingarea,and farmstays alistof in Te Puke town,butthere’s a bitmore inhome- There’s of not awideselection accommodation ping. There’s acaféandshop on site. forabitof‘hill-hopper’ 4WDbuggy hill-hop- demos. Alternatively, youcanjumpintoa fruit farmincludingoccasionalsheep-milking winter) farm tours$20/14,4WD$89/39; Paengaroa;.longridgepark.co.nz; adult/childjetboat$89/39, introduce youto the Queen. enjoyable tours thattake youtothehive and There’s aneducationalgallery,shop, caféand honey- andbee-derived health-care products. 2pm) Paengaroa; admissionfree; tors centre you’re inluck.Notfarawayis Aerius Helicopters here youcanalsotake helicopter tours with of kiwifruitgewgaws andotherkiwiana. From and ashopstocked withaninordinate array upkiwifruitdelights, ing tower,acaféserving minute kiwicartorchard ride,kiwifruitview- offarangepeels of attractions includinga35- it)kiwifruit,thisvisitorcentre(you guessed orchards of nashipears, citrus,avocados and SLEEPING SLEEPING Thankfully, Beacon Motel B&B Lazy Daze Fun Park Longridge If you’re after sweeter, something even ) 9am-5pm), This pretty, private self-contained cottage – Thispretty, private self-contained , home of New Zealand’s mostfamous , homeof NewZealand’s offers manydifferent adventures from ps

( % at the turn-off forMaketu,at theturn-off has ) 0800 493782;www.comvita.com; SH33, Thisold-stylebutwell-pre-

( Kiwi360 Kiwi360 % ( ( p344 % 07-573 8188;144BoucherAve; $120; 07-573 7825; 173 Jellicoe St;s/d 07-573 7825;173Jellicoe ) h .

( ( h % 8.30am-5pm, tours10am& % 9am-5pm summer,to4pm 0800 867386;www 0800 5494360;www EASTERN BAY EASTERN OF ••Whakatane PLENTY Comvita visi- 6 LittleWaihiRd) ered/powered sites$20/25,d$55-115; 1TownPointRd;unpow- 2165; www.maketubeach.co.nz; the beach withcampsites, logcabinsand modation andhandlesgeneral enquiries has free internet access,books tours, accom- 10am-4pmSat& Sunwinter) summer, 8am-5pmMon-Fri, .com; QuaySt; Information Island) for starters. ful beaches andvolcanicWhakaari(White thanfarming, withbliss- to Whakatane agricultural district,butthere’s much more name. same It’sthehubof theRangitaiki harbour atthemouthof theriver of the sitsinanatural (fa-ka-ta-ne) Whakatane thetownofA truePohutukawa paradise, pop 17,700 WHAKATANE charm. its overlooked, which isabsolutely integral to kawa trees. It’sbeautifulcountry,andoften drop of covered cliffs inmajestic pohutu- long stretches of beaches withaback- sandy of Bay Eastern Plenty’smaindrawcardis Stretching fromMaketu toOpotiki,the EASTERN BAYOF PLENTY rooms. motel Town PointRd,2hr $85). rides Ride Seaside horse treksBeachside canbehad with metres downthecoasttowardsestuary. here youcanwalktoLittleWaihi,afew kilo- pay the$3-per-car donationatthegate. From small dirttrack.It’sonprivate property,so reached byfollowingTownPointRdtoa Very goodpiesthey are, too. ploying agoodproportionof thepopulation. is more famousfor on theforeshore. Arguably, thetown though, somewhat underwhelmingstonemonument (see p322 ), which iscommemorated witha history asthelandingsite of ring. you occasionally, butBigHarry canhelpyouif visitors centre town.Thevolunteer-runthis historicseaside Whakatane Overnight at Overnight bumsshould headfor Beach Maketu playedasignificantroleinNZ’s

( i-SITE h % , baked fresh dailyhere andem-

( % 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat&Sun 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 07-533 2582; www.briarshorsetrek.co.nz; 07-533 2582;www.briarshorsetrek.co.nz;

( Beach HolidayPark 07-533 2343; Maketu Rd) 07-533 2343;Maketu % Maketu Pies Maketu 0800 924528;www.whakatane Te Arawa p (

Newdick’s Beach % ) , right on, right 07-533 2358; ( % isopen canoe canoe 07-533 Briars Briars 353

, OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY European settlers. OfparticularinterestEuropean settlers. are fully presented displaysonearlyMaori and is animpressive regional withart- museum Strand &CommerceSt) Nov) adult/child $80/50; 733 529;www.dolphinandwhale.co.nz; TheStrand;trips adult/child $110/80, swim$150/130; www.whalesanddolphinwatch.co.nz; 96TheStrand;view to Motuhora (WhaleIsland). all gear available. and divingtripsonsportfishing boats,with 86TheStrand; boatperhr$200) -charters.com; with the dolphins. get yououtamongstit,includingswimming operators can andkahawai.Several tarakihi and sharks,downtoteatime treats such as for fishing, frombig gamesuch asmarlin little bluepenguins.Thearea isalsorenowned whales; aswellbirdlife such asgannetsand orca,pilotandminkedolphins, furseals, with marinemammalsincludingcommon alongthe The sea coastisaliveWhakatane MARINE MAMMAL–WATCHING &FISHING displayed opposite the caves. aunt andfamousseer. A once provided shelter toMuriwai,Wairaka’s Cave Muriwai’s Te HurinuiApanui.AnotherMaori site is there’s amonument totheNgatiAwachief signed here by Ngati Awachiefs in1840and performed. TheTreaty of wasalso Waitangi outcrop, where baptismsandotherrites were ing theirlineage backtothe the donation; 11BoonSt;admissionby www.whakatanemuseum.org.nz; &Gallery Museum Whakatane Sights Hospital emergency medicaltreatment, visit all major bankshave branches intown.For Kiwibank forforeign exchange, although 1155; Nearbyisthe for DOC. 354 itrainl exhibitions. international lery presents avariedprogrammeof NZand theboxed(see text, p356 ), whiletheartgal- Activities Whales andDolphin Watch Rush Dolphin andWhaleNature Charters Diveworks Beside theroundaboutis Beside Offers atwo-hourfast-boat tripout taonga

h ATR A F LNY • hktn BAYEASTERN OF ••Whakatane PLENTY

h (07-306 0999; St). Stewart 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12pmSat) 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pmSat&Sun) 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, (treasures) of localMaori trac- (partially collapsed), which (partiallycollapsed), h , alarge 10am daily Dec-Mar; Sat-MonApr- 10am dailyDec-Mar; ( % 07-308 5896;www.diveworks post office tapu ceremonial waka ceremonial

( h % Pohaturoa Mataatua waka ( % (sacred) rock 7.15am, 8.30am 0800 3547737; 07-306 0505;

( Whakatane Whakatane Fishing % ( % witha (cnr The

07-307 0800 is

.com; adult/child$70/60) for ahair-raising ride. River fromMatahina DamtoAniwhenuaFalls Tours Jet Kiwi OTHER ACTIVITIES and pram. of andisaccessible by wheelchair Whakatane Pine BushWalk Lookout Puketapu are the oldest outs and passinglook- the Kohi Point ScenicReserve, (four hours, 5.5km),which extends through to Wairaka’s statue. Gardens,Muruwai’sCave andonBotanical ter optionisthe historicsites alongtheway.Aflat- several a large and loopthattakes inOhopeBeach (Footsteps of Toi)walkway(13hours, 18km), Most walksare partof the ranging from30minutes tohalfaday. Whakatane The i-SITEsells WALKING year-round. trips ited, butof standard. a high islim- Cheap accommodation inWhakatane BUDGET Sleeping and Whakaari(White Island). offers boattripstoMotuhora (WhaleIsland) peakseason) vary betwn7am-9.15am,&also12.30pmduring .co.nz; TheStrand;adult&child$175; a waterslide. with indoorandoutdoorpools,spa pools and 6pm Sat&Sun) St;adult/child$3.50/1.70; Short when theskyisclear. h Ave,308 6495;Hurinui adult/child/family$10/4/15; Hillcrest; of thearea. the native flora,fauna,andculturalheritage the Tarawera Valley where youcanlearnabout cotours.co.nz; tourshalf-/fullday$60/110) following the Whakatane Riverfollowing theWhakatane pastthe & 1pm) White IslandTours White AquaticCentre District Whakatane Observatory Astronomical Whakatane EcoTours Matata Another popularstrollis dusk Tue &Fri) Latham’s Hill Track Latham’s Hill Dolphin-viewing andswimming Toi’s Pa pa is amodernswimmingcomplex ($2), a booklet detailing walks ($2),abookletdetailing

( offers agreat chance tostar-spot (30minutes) 20kmsouth starts % site inNZ.Otherwalkways Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels (Kapua te Rangi), reputedly (Kapua te Rangi), Discover the WalksAround and 0800 800538;www.kiwijetboattours ( %

rockets along Rangitaiki rockets alongRangitaiki % River Walk River (17kmoutof town), 0800 733529;www.whiteisland 0800 628282;www.matatae Papaka Redoubt Papaka h 6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am- 6am-8pm Mon-Fri, Nga Tapuwae oToi Kohi PointWalkway h (2-3hours), runs tours of ( % departure times departure 07-308 4192;

. ( % White White 07-

lonelyplanet.com ὈὈὈὈ0 500 m WHAKATANE 0 0.3 miles

A B C D E F 9 INFORMATION SLEEPING Orini Stream Post Office...... 1 D2 Captain's Cabin...... 15 F1 Whakatane Hospital...... 2 A4 Karibu Backpackers...... 16 B3

1 Whakatane i-SITE...... 3 D2 Livingston Inn...... 17 B3 BAY EASTERN OF ••Whakatane PLENTY Motuhora Rise B&B...... 18 E2 15 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Tuscany Villas...... ὈὈ19 E2 ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Ceremonial Waka...... 4 F1 Whakatane Hotel...... 20 D2 Whakatane River 4 Dr Diveworks Charters...... 5 D2 White Island Rendezvous...... 21 E2 Whakatane Gardens Mataatua Dolphin & Whale Nature Rush..(see 21) Windsor Backpackers...... 22 D3 28 26 6 Park Muriwai Muriwai’s Cave...... 6 F1 3 Papaka Redoubt...... 7 D2 EATING River 23 Quay St Strand Pohaturoa...... 8 D2 Bean...... 23 D2 Beach St Walk 29 27 The way Statue of Wairaka...... 9 F1 Fig...... Barry Ave 24 D2 5 21 14 Toi's Pa...... 10 F3 New Hong Kong...... 25 D2 19 Harvey St Walk 20 Toroa St Whakatane Astronomical NZ's Finest Fish & Chips...... 26 E1 Bracken St 24 Puketapu ὈὈKakahoroaὈὈStrand Dr 30 ὈὈὈὈLookout ὈὈ Observatory...... 11 E3 Pee Jay's Coffee House...... (see 21) 8 The 1 Wairere

2 Whakatane District Rocquette...... 27 E2 Pohutu St Rich Falls Aquatic Centre...... 12 C4 Wharf Shed Restaurant...... 28 E1 Kohi Point Brabant St ard 25 Kohi Point Whakatane Museum & Gallery.. 13 D2 Peace St son St 7 Scenic Reserve

Boon St Whales & Dolphin Watch...... 14 D2 13 White Island Tours...... (see 21) Whakatane River Rd Sullivan St Pyne St 18

To Airport (1km); Warren view

Rotorua (85km) Park Sea Louvain St 10

Wairere Stream

Hurinui Ave ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈWaiewe St 22 2 Merritt St Motuhora Hillcrest Rd hare St Weka St Rise

Eivers Rd Tui St DRINKING

McAlister St Pouw 17 McGarvey Rd Craic...... (see 20) 3 Landing Rd 11 Office...... 29 D2 16 Domain Rd Commerce St ENTERTAINMENT Victoria St Haig St Boiler Room...... (see 20) ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈCinema 5...... 30 D2 Lovelock St TRANSPORT

Hinemoa St 12 James St Hillcrest Bay Hopper...... (see 3) Bus Stop...... (see 3) Whakatane Ohope Rd King St Domain Crestwood Rise White Island Shuttle...... (see 21)

Soutar Ave

Stewart St To Ohope Scenic 4 Gorge Rd Reserve (4km); Ohope (6.5km); Awatapu Lagoon Nga Tapuwae o ὈὈὈὈὈToi Walkway Latham's Hill Kopeopeo Track (17km); White Pine Mokorua Bush Bush Walk (20km); 355 Garaway St

2 Scenic Reserve Opotiki (55.5km)

Valley Rd OF PLENTY PLENTY OF

ὈὈὈ BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY Livingston remains oneof thebetter mo- [email protected]; 10 Merritt St;dm/s$25/35,d$50-80; [email protected]; 10Merritt ston.co.nz; 42LandingRd;d/f$120/180; comfy, with spapoolsand super king beds. thereever isroom.Roomsare luxuriousand balcony andattractive floralplantingswher- with interesting architecture, wrap-around but stilloffers afew raysof sunshine Italian ern motel maybealongwayfromFlorence, .co.nz; 57TheStrand;d$135-180; café, from theterrific in-house Pee Jay’s. travellers Breakfast withdisabilities. available come withspasandthere are facilitiesfor floors forabeach cottage vibe. Deluxe rooms air,withinteriorssea decked outintimber of balconyanddeckspaceforenjoyingthe on-the-ball White IslandTourpeople. Lots immaculate 25-roomcomplexrunbythe .whiteisland.co.nz; TheStrand;d/ffrom$130/150; benefit. fringe spasinexecutiveLarge suites are agreat that are popular withthemotor-inn crowd. tels intown, withspacious,well-kept units rated along nautical lines. deco- room andbijoubathroom–allsweetly smallerkitchen anddining,withasecond ing area combinesbedroom,lounge, cleverly hanging roundforafew days.Acosyliv- unitistheperfect spotforthose self-contained views of theharbourentrance,thishomely p Cabin Captain’s MIDRANGE tive after extrasforthose cheap thrills. tent and free sites. bikes Barbecues are attrac- dorms, two-bed units,andalarge gardenwith units $100-150; backpackers.co.nz; 13LandingRd;sites$28,dm$24-26,d becue courtyardare spacious and tidy. the communalkitchen, lounge area andbar- from dormstomotel-standard doubles,and expect arestful roomsrange Excellent sleep. freshly converted fromafuneralparlour,so pi wholoveor those tobeinthethick of it. carry ear-plugs weekend bandnoise, tomuffle basic roomstosuitlively backpackers who dm/s $20/40,d$55-65) 356 Karibu Backpackers Karibu Windsor Backpackers Hotel Whakatane Tuscany Villas Livingston Inn White IslandRendezvous White ) Inaserene partof townwithbreathtaking ATR A F LNY • hktn BAYEASTERN OF ••Whakatane PLENTY ) Whakatane’s newestbackpackers Whakatane’s is pi

( %

ThisArtDecoclassichas 07-308 5719; 23 Muriwai Dr;r$115; 07-308 5719;23Muriwai (

) Thisconverted has house % ( 0800 801040;www.tuscanyvillas %

( % 0800 770777;www.living 07-307 1670;79TheStrand; ( % 07-307 8276;www.karibu

( % pi 07-308 8040;whaka 0800 242299;www Thismod- ) p p ) The An ) White IslandTours building,this isagood s/d $190/205; Eating rods and golf clubs. suite, outdoorspapoolondeckingandfishing other extrassuch asaDVDhome-theatre gourmet cheeseboard onarrival,alongwith across toWhaleIsland.Youcanexpecta great thishilltopspotaffords views senses, B&B Motuhora Rise TOP END Strand; meals$8-18; block at11 Boon Street. folkhaveThese outletaroundthe atakeaway two-hour $10-dish‘happyhour’from 5.30pm. chips. Lunch deals($6)are agoodbet,asisthe such aschop suey,chow meinand,of course, fuss Asian Sino-Kiwigrub restaurant does mains $6-10; biscuit or bagel. going withaquickfixandfreshly baked the premises). Pullupachair, andget yourself est spotintowntoget goodcoffee (roasted on h crispometer. the score andthechips certainly start, wellon it. Thefresh, locallysourcedfishisagood fishy fryers whetherthese yourself live upto for claim, butwestronglysuggest you see meals $5-13; NZ’s Finest Fish &Chips Pee Jay’sCoffeeHouse New HongKong Bean a man!) and, breaking thetraditional a man!)and,breaking (Let as auiahau!’ meact whakatane ‘E! Kia to sea. criedout Toroa’sdaughter, Wairaka, with allthewomenonboard–drifted out ration ofherbrave deed. harbourincommemo- rock inWhakatane’s A paddle andbroughttheboatsafely ashore. on womensteering a local leaders,thetideturned,and Mataatua ary inahugeocean-going Toroa andhisfamilysailedintotheestu- Maori settlersarrived here. The warrior centuries ago,200yearsafter theoriginal nameoriginatedWhakatane’s someeight WHAKA LIKEAMAN 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, Sat10am-2pm) 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, statue of Wairaka statue ofWairaka

( % h p h . As themenwentashore togreet 07-307 0494;54TheStrand;bagels$6-8; lunch Mon-Fri, dinnerMon-Sun) lunch Mon-Fri, ) 11am-8pm) Atthetopof thetowninboth h (

( % % 6.30am-2pm)

07-308 5864; 32 Richardson St; 07-308 5864;32Richardson ( 07-307 0224; 2 Motuhora Rise; 07-307 0224;2MotuhoraRise; stands proudlyatopa waka, % Thenameisquite a 07-307 1100;TheStrand; ( waka % shetookupthe Located inthe lonelyplanet.com 07-308 9500;The (canoe), the Theloungi- Thisno- waka tapu –

summery salads, risottoand summery salads, fish dishes. Mediterreanean-influenced fare withlotsof uprefreshing this popularnewcomerserves one of thetown’sbignewapartment blocks, waterside restaurant onthegroundfloorof beer, bigmealswithchips allover,beer, andsalad $12/7) winner for beef andlambbutfamousforwinner forbeef Strand; mains$22-45; eeoeig coffee. eye-opening ters plusmammothbrowniesand andsalad, town, withhealthybrunch frit- options,pasta, foreshore. Someof thebestcafé-stylefare in breakfast orlunch duringastrollalongthe place forapre-tour orifyoufancy tank-up lonelyplanet.com to Gisborne go via Opotiki. with connections tootherplaces.Allbuses hours) andGisborne ($41,three hours), dailywithRotorua($31,1½Whakatane stopoutside the i-SITEandconnect buses with connectionsto other centres. toAuckland, linkingWhakatane daily flights Air NewZealand Getting There&Around with mirrorballand flashing lights. discoden,onoccasionalla-glitzWhakatane deck. Aslidingdoorleadstothesometime smokers’ andasmallbutpleasant clean tables, The Strand; andtheoccasional tables live band. Boiler Roomisacavernous spacewithpool of hotchocolate ifyouprefer. Nextdoor, the fashion, enjoyable foradrinkortwocup The Craicisabusylocals’pubafter theIrish 79 TheStrand; the fine-looking There are onlyafew nocturnaloptionsand Drinking &Entertainment evenings. balmy waterside alfresco withdelightful diningon onthe Right crayfish andcorpulentmussels. its fishdishes which includelocallybagged 20, dinnermains$17-34; and dailyspecialssuch as Thai soup. fare such aspastriesand home-madeburgers, café attended byahappycrew makingtasty $20-24; InterCity InterCity Across theroadis ShedRestaurant Wharf Rocquette Fig Cinema 5 istheplacetogofor movies.

( h % h breakfast &lunchdaily,dinnerThu-Sat) 07-308 6549;93TheStrand;lunch$12-16,dinner

h ( ( % %

11am-late) ( % ( 11am-late)

% 07-308 6058;www.intercitycoach.co.nz) 07-308 7623;100TheStrand;adult/child EASTERN BAY EASTERN OF (WhiteIsland) ••Whakaari PLENTY 07-307 0722;23QuaySt;lunch$13- Whakatane Hotel Whakatane h 07-308 8397; Whakatane airport) 07-308 8397;Whakatane h , doing what it does well: , doingwhatitdoes lunch &dinner) ishometotwoof them. Office Office lunch &dinner)

( % ( % 07-308 5698;The ( % 07-307 0123;82

Anaward Amodern 07-307 1670; Abuzzy has

4½ hours) andWellington($49,10hours). Gisborne ($29,three hours), Waitomo($59, ($39, 3½ hours), Tauranga ($11,onehour), ices toAuckland($39,5½hours), Hamilton ice fortheirtours bynon- thatcanbeused operators runtripsoutof Rotorua(see Dive White Dive local while p344), include: operators (see Tauranga and p332) story in itself. the sulphurminingfactory–aninteresting the islandincludingavisitto ruinsof will usuallyincludeawalkingtour around tours only,whileboatandhelicopter tours erator. Fixed-wing airoperators runflyover tourop- only visittheislandwithalicensed have recorded.been crater floor. Temperatures of 600°Cto800°C ing andsteaming fromvents over mostof the lie alongTaupo Volcanic Zone. (MtEdgecumbe),Island) andPutauaki asall Whakaari isrelated toMotuhora(Whale point ontheislandat321m.Geologically, them.MtGisborneisthehighest up between eroded,whiletheyoungerbeen conehasrisen cones of different ages. Thetwo oldest have originally formedbythree volcanic separate coast.Thesmall theWhakatane off island was mostactive volcanolies49km New Zealand’s WHAKAARI (WHITEISLAND) 4pm. around 7pm to7.30pm,andreturns toRotorua from pre-arranged pick-uppointsbetween tour people. TheshuttledepartsRotorua adult/child $60/35; Cab senger. Taxi are available from services with discounted pricesperadditionalpas- airport cost$20peradultforthefirst adult, Kawerau (Tuesday and Friday, $6). $7.50) Tauranga (MondaytoSaturday,$12.50), daily, $2.50),Opotiki(MondayandWednesday, 422 928;www.baybus.co.nz) ing in advance. fareSubstantial savings canbemadebybook- dvn trips. diving day-long diving withowngear/hire gear$225/295) Offers Numerous helicopter andfixed-wing The islandisdramatic,withhotwater hiss- IslandShuttle White GKM Shuttles The local The islandisprivately ownedsoyoucan Naked Bus Naked ( % 0800 342 522). ( % Bay Hopper (www.nakedbus.com) (www.nakedbus.com)

0800 348394;www.divewhite.co.nz; h ( % Mon-Sat) 0800 007005) run to Ohope (several run toOhope(several and ( % runs ashuttle serv- Beach Runner 0800 733529;return runs dailyserv- to/from the ( %

Dial a 357 0800 0800

OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY caravan parkwithsports courts, minigolfand $90-160, apts$165-250; Rd; unpowered/powered sites$38/40, cabins$70-130,units Park the townincluding discounts for groups. 4909; 2hrlesson$90) at sons fromBeaver as wellfreedom kayak hire. guided tour,andothertripsbyarrangement tours $75,2hrhire s/d$35/60) with Wildlife Refuge. Youcanexplore theharbour Just beyondtheharbourissmallSandspit ing, andisbacked OhiwaHarbour. bysleepy has great beaches, perfect forlazingorsurf- Just 7kmover thehillfromWhakatane, Ohope pop 3010 OHOPE above ). (see tobebooked need through by December to24February, andare operated ing isrestricted. Tripsrunonlyfrom30 refuge and forsea shore birds. wildlife aDOC-protected 1965 ithasbeen and remains privatelysince owned,although intoEuropeanownership the islandpassed it wasanchored Inthe1840s atSulphur Bay. fromthetradingvesselsailors Maori In1829,Maori settlement. massacred an ancient historicsites, including the islandhasseveral along itsshore. and Thesummitis353mhigh less active, there although are hotsprings along theTaupo VolcanicZonebutismuch athan shape. Thisislandisyetanothervolcano or ofWhale Island–so-calledbecause itslevi- Nine kilometres is Whakatane off Motuhora, MOTUHORA (WHALEISLAND) tour of the island. to theisland,withdolphin-spottingenrouteand90min IslandTours White Helicopters Vulcan 358 12.30pm during peakseason) 12.30pm during h www.whiteisland.co.nz; TheStrand;adult&child$175; includes a one-hour guidedwalkon includes aone-hour the volcano. heli.co.nz; toWhiteIslandwhich tours$435)A2½hrtrip Whale Islandwasoriginallyhometoa If youwanttotake onthesurf,get someles- There’s plentyof accommodationaround The island’sprotected meansland- status Coastguard Whakatane Whakatane Coastguard departure timesvarybetwn7am-9.15am,&also departure ( % ATR A F LNY • ouoa(hl sad BAYEASTERN OF ••Motuhora(WhaleIsland) PLENTY KG Kayaks KG Kayaks 07-312 4460;www.ohopebeach.co.nz; 367Harbour pa site, quarry and camp. ( whoprovide allgear andoffer % ( (Map (Map p355 ; % pis 07-315 4005; www.kgkayaks.co.nz; 07-315 4005;www.kgkayaks.co.nz; Ohope BeachTop10 Holiday By Salt Surf School By SaltSurf 0800 804354;www.vulcan

The classic six-hour boat trip The classicsix-hourboattrip whoruna2½-hour ($60, fourhours) but % , afamily-friendly ) White IslandTours White 0800 733529; Haweis ( %

while 07-312

Mon-Fri, 10am-3pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, St; Plunkett 7550; www.kawerau.co.nz; bed for budget.every and chip (and oyster) picnic. modation and other amenities. 6m Wed-Sun) 6pm Farm harvested by harvested Kawerau Awakeri HotSpringsisthetimbertown of sites from$25,cabin/flat/unit$50/65/90; park springs, spapools,picnicareas and Hot Springs Rotorua alongSH30you’llcometothe kilometresSixteen to fromWhakatane WHAKATANE TOROTORUA stairs at grub onoffer, andaquieter diningoptionup- darts andbig-screen telly. There’s goodpub andenjoyamenitiessuch asfreebeer pool, dotted thelocals,drinkcheap lineandmeet you mustfeign membership. Signonthe mains $16-22; is available. hire ens andjust100mfromthebeach. Dinghy complex withvariousoptions,allkitch- motorlodge.co.nz; 103HarbourRd;d$75; MotorLodge Aquarius pool. Foraquieter, motel-style option,try 10km) continues on to Lake Tarawera10km) continues ontoLake where falls. native through forest1.4km) passes tothe the from thevisitorcentre. Fromthecar park, Visits require apermit($3.50pervehicle) pine forests trucks). (watch outforlogging Kawerau, alongawell-graded roadthrough and farmforbeginners and the adventurous. adult/child $35/25) 1hrrides 6457; www.tuiglen.net.nz;SH30,southofKawerau; months old.Kawerau’s whythisbreweryand see wongoldatfour civilization?) calledMata. Pullinforsupplies 57 OnslowSt), Breweries Aotearoa factory isthebiggest smallthingintown – 3788; On the highway toOpotikiis On thehighway Ohope Chartered Club Ohope Chartered Tarawera Falls Almost inKawerau, kilometresEighteen furtheronfrom The mostpopularof diningoptions several

h Tarawera Falls Track

( ( Tarawera Outlet Track % % tours byappointment) , surroundedbypineforest regularly C’Vue C’Vue 07-304 9117; www.awakerisprings.co.nz; SH30; 07-304 9117;www.awakerisprings.co.nz; 07-312 4565;WainuiRd) brewing fromtheedge’ ‘a beer (of . h (adult/child $5/3) ( Tasman Pulp&Paper Mill offers treks horse bush through % from 4.30pmMon-Sun) are a half-hour drive from are ahalf-hour 07-312 5808;mains$20-29; ( %

( % 07-323 8370;www.mata.net.nz; (40minutes return, ( has details of hasdetails accom- % . Intheshadowof the Tui GlenFarm 07-312 4550; www.aquarius 07-312 4550;www.aquarius visitor centre (fourhours return, . Complete with 07-312 5008;BluettRd; , perfect forafish lonelyplanet.com h p – towhich p 8.30am-4.30pm Ohiwa Oyster Ohiwa Oyster , there’s a )

( ( (

) % % % abasic holiday h 07-323 07-323 07-323 Awakeri Awakeri from mits are $3, available from firein summerduetohigh risk).Accessper- views of theentire of Bay Plenty(often closed Edgecumbe) p340). (see there are impressive viewsand lonelyplanet.com ers liningthe main street. here, withtheworkofpreserved master carv- century migration.Maori traditionsare well 1150, some200years before thelarger 14th- yet anothergoodreason topay a visit. opened, acredit totheproudtownsfolkand Just recently, was anexcellentlocalmuseum andnearbyranges.valleys of theRaukumara andtherugged forests Cape andriverthe East worth thetripalone,butit’salsogateway to it. Thebeaches –are –OhiwaandWaiotahi This charming townhasmuch torecommend pop 7070 OPOTIKI permit inadvancefor weekend tramps. a toobtain attheweekends soyouneed closed ( % 1 3 2 OPOTIKI 2 Dominating Kawerau is The Opotikiarea fromatleast wassettled 07-323 8146) Whakatane (58km) Ohiwa (17km); Waiotahi Beach(6km); Backpackers (6km); Opotiki BeachHouse To KukumoaLodge(2km); Tangata WhenuaGallery...... Shalfoon &FrancisMuseum...... Museum...... Hiona StStephen'sChurch...... Paper Plus/PostOffice...... Opotiki InternetCafé...... Opotiki i-SITE...... DOC Office...... (see1) Opotiki Heritage&Agriculture D1 De LuxeCinema...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION , avolcanicconewithpanoramic AC Domain (6km) To Hukutaia located ontheroadup.They’re EASTERN BAY EASTERN OF ••Opotiki PLENTY

Waioeka Waioeka River Picnic Area

Forsyth St 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 4 D1 D1 D1 D1 D1 D2 D1

Maori Investments Investments Maori Ford St Ford 11 Putauaki (Mt Putauaki MotorLodge...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING retlPlc...... D1 Oriental Palace...... Travel Shop...... Bus Stop...... Two Fish...... New WorldSupermarket...... Eastland Pacific Central OasisBackpackers...... B

Union St campsites

ὈὈ Bridge St Bridge

Waioeka River

Brabant St born again.Withshelves withold piledhigh entry) 129 ChurchSt; junct drawn wagon.Justdowntheroadisad- and agriculturalitems includingahorse- displays includingMaori hasinteresting2008, themuseum heritage area. Runbyvolunteers andopenedearlyin to learnmore about therich history of the $5/2; ( The new Sights &Activities 315 6155;106cChurch St) 7632; 97 Church St) is available at booklet freeactivities andstockstheindispensable The centre takes bookingsforavarietyof fice .com; cnrStJohn&ElliottSts; The Information % The post office islocatedThe postoffice at

10 15 14 13 12 11 07-315 5193;[email protected]; 123ChurchSt;adult/child ( h . Thisisinfacttheoriginalgeneral store, % 9 Opotiki Shalfoon & Francis Museum Shalfoon &FrancisMuseum D3 D2 D3 D2 B3 D2 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to2pmSat) 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 07-315 1001) Pacific Coast Highway Opotiki Heritage and Agriculture Museum andAgriculture Heritage Opotiki

Nelson St

h i-SITE . Opotiki Internet Café Internet Opotiki 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to2pm;goldcoin 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 0 0 are building. inthesame

Potts Ave ( . % 4 2 6 07-315 8484;www.opotikinz

Church St h

7 Church St To Gisborne 15 8 3

Grey St 13 8am-5pm) 12 9 5

2 Richard St Richard (142km)

taonga

King St King

Ford St Ford Kelly St Kelly To AngroveHouse(5km); Capeview Cottage(6km); 14 offers achance Paper Plus . Internet access ( % Motor Camp(6km); D East Cape(181km); and Gisborne (328km) 2 Tirohanga Beach (treasures) St John St 07-315 5169; ( % 10

Elliott St St John St Bridge St Bridge 0.3 miles 500 m DOC of- 1 Ὀ ( % 07-315

Windsor St 359 35 07-

OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY beachside padwith abigdeckoffering good odeos/opotiki.htm) Coast Rd,Tirohanga; unpowered/powered sites$24/28, dm $20, down thescenicandeasy River.Waioeka 5117; AppletonRd;dm$23, d&tw$56; tothebeach costing a ins closer little more. camping optionswithcab- this parkhasseveral cabins $50-75; and abigfrontyardtohang out in. relatively spaciousroomswithcrackling fires This centralbackpackers isasnugspotwith St;dm$19,d&tw$21) traloasispackpackers.co.nz; 30King OasisBackpackers Central Sleeping for theannual $60/50) .newzealandsbestspot.co.nz; 1&2hradult/child$40/30 trips the Motu (from $395). four-day raftingandcampingadventures on 462 7238;www.wetnwildrafting.co.nz) daily ontheMotuRiver. child $85/50) kete artsandcrafts,including Zealand–themed St, is Check inthewindowfor upcoming events. and ishometoschool andbrassband concerts. 6110; 129ChurchSt) elsewhere. reinterred been Whakatohea. Theremains have since been dead of theUpokorere old andaburialplaceforthedistinguished tree estimated tobemore than2000years NZ. Inthecentre isTaketakerau, a23mpuriri one of thefinestcollectionsof native plantsin Domain Hukutaia shop from thesecondhand next door. nearthepulpit.Youcanpickupkeystains Church Stephen’s Volkner wasmurdered in1865the have acted asagovernment Carl spy,Rev to be–younameit,they had it. intohowshopping used fascinating insight grocery andhardware products,itoffers a 360 Tangata WhenuaGallery h In themiddleof thetown’sshoppingstreet The charming old Opotiki Beach House Backpackers BeachHouseBackpackers Opotiki Come late December, donacowboyhat Kayaks River Waioeka Motu River Jet BoatTours Jet Motu River Tirohanga BeachMotorCamp Around 8kmsouthof the town centre is Known bythelocalWhakatohea tribeto (baskets) and ATR A F LNY • ptk BAYEASTERN OF ••Opotiki PLENTY 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) runone-andtwo-hourkayakingtrips hasasmanythree 1½-hourtrips p Inthenearbytownof Tirohanga, ) . – you can still see theblood- –youcanstillsee Opotiki Rodeo Opotiki showstheoccasionalmovie

(Woodlands Rd; , stockingMaori- andNew pounamu De Luxe Cinema De Luxe (

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ship-shape gardeninthe rose car park. decor,spabaths anda asstandard, servative $4-8, mains$9-19; coffee fix, serving upheftyportionsof burg- coffee fix,serving Undoubtedly thebestbetforcafé-fare anda eateries. Opotiki hasasmattering of reasonable Eating rates views. Weekly are available. tage hastwobedrooms,aspaandidylliccoast birds andkiwi-fruit orchards, thisserene cot- .co.nz; Tablelands Rd;d$145; for loungingaroundin the sunshine. pool andspa,alarge balconyandpatio Ithasagamesroomforthekids, up toeight. a spaciousdoubleandfamilyarea sleeping from townonthewaytoOhope,andsports posing familylodge islocated five minutes lodge.co.nz; 19aBairdsRd;d$110; p www.eastlandpacific.co.nz; &StJohnSts;d$95-140; cnrBridge holiday. summer whowantarealfor those sliceof theKiwi attractive doublesandacaravan alongside and surfboards.As wellasdormsthere are in thewater withfree kayaks,bodyboards SH2 route offers somescenic daywalksin Coastchapterthe East forthisroute). The (see Gorge, Cape ortheSH35aroundEast Waioeka routes: SH2,crossingthespectacular Travelling eastfromOpotikithere are two Getting There&Away World supermarket nie, paté,curryand specialities. seafood fare withplentymadefromscratch: ben- eggs overlooking akiwifruit grove. Fresh, delicious instunningfloralgardens culinary scene,set utes of drive the fromtownandthehighlight $7-16, dinner$22-30; curries onTues and Wed. with$10 upgoodstandards restaurant serving $12-17; courtyard. and inthecabinet.Retro-groovyselection interior ers, chowder,plusajumbo toastiesandsalads sea viewsandplentyof opportunitiestogetsea Self-caterers shouldmake for abeeline Self-caterers Palace Oriental Two Fish Lodge Kukumoa Eastland Pacific MotorLodge Capeview Cottage Capeview Angrove House Angrove ) Eastland isawell-kept Eastland motel withcon- h lunch &dinnerTue-Sun)

( % h Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 07-315 5548;102ChurchSt;snacks ( ( h % % (19 Bridge St; (19 Bridge ( 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pmSat) 8am-4pm Mon-Fri,

% ( % lunch &dinnerThu-Sun) 07-315 5879;120ChurchSt;mains 07-315 6565;105BeachRd;lunch p 07-315 8545; www.kukumoa 07-315 8545;www.kukumoa 0800 227384;www.capeview Set amidchirruping Set ) A popularIndian ps h

( % 8am-8pm) 0800 103003; ) Thisim- Ten min- . New

St; .co.nz) t Gisborne. to onthedescent rolling hills,dotted withsheep, land, before typicallygreen, theroute crosses getting andnarrowerasyoutravel steeper in- the lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake ($20,40minutes),with Whakatane Rotorua through Streets, tickets though andbookingsare Shop onthecornerof Bridge andStJohn h Buses pickup/dropoffattheHotBreadBuses InterCity Waioeka Gorge Scenic Reserve Gorge Waioeka has daily buses connectingOpotiki hasdailybuses 9am-6pm Mon-Fri)

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Travel Shop Travel ( % EASTERN BAY EASTERN OF ••Opotiki PLENTY 07-308 6058;www.intercitycoach . ( % 07-315 8881;104Church , withthegorge .baybus.co.nz) Wd $7.50). Wed, be madebybooking in advance. ($49, 11hours). fare Substantial savings can Waitomo ($59,sixhours) andWellington ($29, twohours), Auckland($49,6½hours), ices toTauranga ($19,three hours), Gisborne a daily service. Opotiki withGisborne($31,twohours) by hours). Heading connect south,thebuses ($31, twohours) andAuckland($64,6¾ The local Naked Bus Naked runs to Whakatane (Mon&runs toWhakatane

(www.nakedbus.com) Bay Hopper

( % runsdailyserv- 0800 422928;www

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OF PLENTY PLENTY OF ROTORUA & THE BAY BAY THE & ROTORUA