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Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty

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Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty © Lonely Planet Publications 320 lonelyplanet.com 321 Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty It was Captain Cook who christened the Bay of Plenty as he sailed into harbour in 1769, and plentiful it remains to this day, blessed with buckets of sunshine and a stunning sandy coast- line. The Bay stretches from Waihi Beach in the west to Opotiki in the east, with a sprinkling of seaside towns and the bustling hub of Tauranga in between. Mt Maunganui – the sand-spit suburb that takes its name from the green mound at the end – has been popular with Kiwi holidaymakers for generations who love it for its lashings of salt-licked leisure activities. East along the pohutukawa-covered coast is Whakatane, the launching point for tours to New Zealand’s most active volcano, Whakaari (White Island). Volcanic activity studs the landscape from here to the Central Plateau, constant reminders that under this fertile soil lies a molten core, oozing upwards to the surface. This hotbed of activity is no more obvious than in Rotorua, NZ’s most famous tourist desti- ROTORUA & THE BAY nation. Here the daily business of life goes on among steaming hot springs, explosive geysers, bubbling mud pools, and the clouds of sulphurous gas responsible for its unique eggy smell. OF PLENTY Rotorua and the Bay remain strongholds of Maori tradition and history, so there are plenty of opportunities to explore the rich culture of the indigenous people of NZ – whether it’s OF PLENTY OF PLENTY attending a powerful concert performance, chowing down at a hangi or discovering the meaning and techniques of Maori arts and crafts. ROTORUA & THE BAY ROTORUA & THE BAY HIGHLIGHTS Tucking into a Maori hangi and taking in a concert at Tamaki ( p328 ) or Mitai ( p328 ) Maori villages Watching the kaleidoscopic colours swirling at the geothermal wonderland of Wai-O- Whakaari Tapu ( p341 ) Mt Maunganui (White Island) Tauranga Kayaking Lake McLaren at night in a quest to Lake McLaren discover the secret glow-worm canyon ( p343 ) Mitai Mountain biking on tracks from humble to Maori Whakatane hardcore at Whakarewarewa Forest ( p330 ) Village Whakarewarewa Forest Surfing NZ’s first artificial reef at Mt Maun- Wai-O-Tapu ganui ( p348 ) Tamaki Maori Village Flying or boating out to NZ’s only active marine volcano, Whakaari (White Island; p357 ) Swimming with dolphins at Tauranga ( p343 ) or Whakatane ( p354 ) TELEPHONE CODE: 07 www.rotoruanz.com www.bayofplenty.co.nz 322 ROTORUA •• History lonelyplanet.com ὈὈlonelyplanet.com ROTORUA •• Information 323 Climate 0 30 km ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY BAY OF PLENTY 0 20 miles The Bay of Plenty is one of the sunniest re- Waihi Waihi Beach To Tuhua gions of NZ, with Whakatane and the Eastern FACTS 2 (Mayor Island) Waikino Athenree (7km) Bay recording the most hours of sunshine Eat A buttery corncob, pulled out of Rotorua’s only To Auckland (125km) S O U T H (2350 per year on average). In summer tem- genuine thermal hangi at Whakarewarewa ( p327 ) ᝲᝲOngare Point P A C I F I C Te ArohaKaimai Range peratures hover between 20°C and 27°C while Drink Katikati Matakana Island O C E A N Mata beer, micro-brewed by Kawerau’s Tauranga Harbour Whakaari ὈὈ (White Island) winter sees the mercury fall as low as 5°C, Aotearoa Breweries (p358 ) 2 Aongatete Motiti Island although it’s slightly warmer on the coast. Read How to Watch a Bird, an exposition on the Omokoroa Shaftesbury Mt Maunganui Rainfall is heavier inland in places such as Mt Maunganui Beach joys of avian observation, written by Mt Maunganui To Auckland ᝲᝲᝲ (146km) Te Puna Tauranga Airport Rotorua, which also experiences long dry schoolboy, Steve Braunias Papamoa Beach Kaimai Mamaku Tauranga spells in summer. Listen to Kora, the eponymous rootsy album from Forest Park Minden 27 Lookout Papamoa Maketu Bay of Plenty Whakatane’s soulful sons McLaren Matamata Falls Te Puke Pukehina Beach Getting There & Around Pukehina Watch Maori TV, the publicly funded TV station, ὈὈ24 29 Pyes Pa Air New Zealand has flights from Tauranga to and learn a little te reo Te Poi Paengaroa Motuhora 36 (Whale Island) Hinuera 2 Auckland and Wellington; from Whakatane Swim at Mount Beach, Mt Maungaunui ( p348 ) River Matata Selwyn Kaimai Rv to Auckland; and from Rotorua to Auckland, Festival The National Jazz Festival in Tauranga Waiomou rewa 33 Rotoehu Mamaku ngo Forest Whakatane Airfield 28 Ma Thornton Wellington and Christchurch. Qantas Forest Park tuna Ohope ( p344 ) Tirau i ᝲᝲ Whakatane 5 a Lake 34 Beach Ohiwa Waiotahi flights connect Rotorua with Christchurch Tackiest tourist attraction The kiwifruit- To Hamilton K Rotoehu Ohope Beach Beach Opape (50km) Okere Falls Lake Awakeri Putaruru Lake Ohiwa 35 and Queenstown. shaped viewing tower at Kiwi360 ( p353 ) Rotoiti 30 Rotoma Te Teko Awakeri Harbour Ngongotaha Hot Springs Opotiki ὈὈ Lake Otara InterCity and Naked Bus services connect Go green Waimarino Adventure Park, where good Mamaku Rotorua Tikitere 34 Taneatua Kutarere Lichfield (Hells Gate) Kawerau Mt Ngongotaha Lake Rv Matahina Dam Tauranga, Rotorua and Whakatane with most clean fun means getting wet behind the ears (p343 ) Rotorua ra River (757m)ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲTa e Okataina ra w Putauaki Lake Matahina Rotorua Airport Raungaghe other main cities in NZ. Bay Coaster and 1 (Mt Edgecumbe) Waimana ROTORUA & THE BAY Waimana River Lake Tarawera (821m) Range Whakatane River Bay Hopper services run between Tauranga, Tokoroa Falls Urutawa 5 Tarawera Rv unimaginatively dubbed the lake Rotorua (or Tokoroa Airfield Mt Tarawera (1110m) Waiotahi Rv Forest Whakatane and Opotiki. Lake 32 OF PLENTY 30 Rotomahana Tarawera Waioeka Gorge ‘Second Lake’) as it was the second lake he Waimangu Forest Scenic Reserve ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲLake River came across. Lake ὈWaikite Rerewhakaaitu ὈὈὈ Ngakuru Maraetai Valley Rangitaiki Wairata Upper Rerewhakaaitu Lake 2 In the next few hundred years, subtribes Atiamuri Lake Wai-O-Tapu Aniwhenua ROTORUA Mangakino Atiamuri See Around Rotorua Map (p338) spread and divided through the area with Whakamaru 30 Lake Ohakuri Parekarangi Waioeka OF PLENTY OF PLENTY pop 70,400 Galatea conflicts breaking out over limited terri- Lake To Gisborne ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲReporoa 38 Te Urewera (88km) Whakamaru Paeroa Breathe in the sulphur-rich air of Rotorua tory. A flashpoint occurred in 1823 when the Orakei Korako Range Golden Springs National Park Murupara ROTORUA & THE BAY ROTORUA & THE BAY Mihi and you’ve already got a taste of NZ’s most Arawa lands were invaded by tribes from the Arataki Mokai Broadlands dynamic thermal area with spurting gey- 5 Tauranga River Northland in the so-called Musket Wars. After Ὀ Tahorakuri ὈὈὈὈὈ Maungapohatu sers, steaming hot springs and exploding ver Te Whaiti (1366m) heavy losses on both sides, the Northlanders i ᝲᝲᝲᝲR Wairakei Ruatahuna mud pools. The Maori revered this place, eventually withdrew. Waikato River naming one of the most spectacular springs During the Waikato Land War (1863-64) Kinloch Acacia Taupo Wai-O-Tapu (Sacred Waters). Today 35% of Te Arawa threw in its lot with the govern- Bay Lake Taupo Wharawaka Whirinaki To Wairoa Huiarau RangeLake the population is Maori, with their cultural Taupo Airport Rangitaiki Forest Park (70km) ment against its traditional Waikato enemies, Whirinaki River Waikareiti performances and traditional hangi as big an gaining troop support and preventing East Ὀ ὈὈὈὈ attraction as the landscape itself. Coast reinforcements getting through to sup- St, which is lined with motels, particularly Medical Services Despite the pervasive eggy odour, ‘Sulphur port the Kingitanga movement (see the boxed to the south. Lakes Prime Care (Map p326 ; %07-348 1000; 1165 City’ is one of the most touristed spots on the text, p219 ). Tutanekai St; h8am-11pm) North Island with nearly three million visitors With peace in the early 1870s, word spread INFORMATION Rotorua Hospital (Map p326 ; %07-348 1199; annually, bringing with them an energy and of scenic wonders, miraculous landscapes and Bookshops Rangiuru St; h24hr) excitement typical of a true resort town. watery cures for all manner of diseases. The McLeods Booksellers (Map p326 ; %07-348 5388; town boomed. Its main attraction was the 1269 Tutanekai St; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am- HISTORY fabulous Pink and White Terraces, formed 7pm Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) Independent Money This area was first settled in the 14th cen- by volcanic silica deposits. Touted at the time bookshop with extensive travel section. There’s a Travelex at the i-SITE, and most tury when the canoe Te Arawa, captained as the eighth natural wonder of the world, banks offer currency exchange including by Tamatekapua, arrived from Hawaiki at they were destroyed in the 1886 Mt Tarawera Emergency Kiwibank at the post office. Maketu in the central Bay of Plenty. Settlers eruption (see p340 ). Ambulance, fire service & police (%111) ANZ Bank (Map p326 ; cnr Hinemoa & Amohia Sts) took the tribal name Te Arawa to commemo- Bank of New Zealand (Map p326 ; cnr Fenton & rate the vessel that had brought them here. ORIENTATION Internet Access Haupapa Sts) Tamatekapua’s grandson, Ihenga, explored Tutanekai St is the central shopping area, Cyber World (Map p326 ; %07-348 0088; 1174 much of the inland forest, naming geographi- part of which is a pedestrian mall. Running Haupapa St) Post cal features as he discovered them. Ihenga parallel is the major through road, Fenton Cybershed (Map p326 ; %07-349 4965; 1176 Pukuatua St) Post Office (Map p326 ; 1189 Hinemoa St) 324 ROTORUA •• Sights lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com ROTORUA •• Sights 325 Ohinemutu cal current through baths as a treatment for ROTORUA AREA IN… Ohinemutu is a charming lakeside Maori vil- ‘nervous exhaustion’. lage that traces the fusing of European and A gripping 20-minute film on the history Two Days Maori cultures. The historic St Faith’s Anglican of Rotorua, including the Tarawera eruption, Up with the lark and breakfast near the lakeside at Lime Caffeteria ( p335 ) by which time the Church (Map p326 ; cnr Mataiawhea & Korokai Sts; admis- runs every 20 minutes.
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