Sightseeing Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Wine Hotels July - December 2017 Including Ohrid &

Bang! Our explosive fi rst issue is packed with essential information about the three cities of Skopje, Ohrid and Bitola

Pop! Uncork a bottle and come with us on a journey through the lip-smacking world of Macedonian wine

Issue Nº1 inyourpocket.com

Contents

ESSENTIAL CI T Y G U I D E S

arriving in Skopje 7 Happy landings

restaurants 8 From tavče gravče to кафе

cafés 15 Coff ee, ice-cream and handlebar moustaches

wine 16 A connoisseur’s guide

nightlife 18 The city that seldom sleeps

Sightseeing 20 The essential guide

One of the myriad examples of project (see p. 25).

ohrid 30 Macedonia’s fabulous unoffi cial leisure capital

Bitola 36 Macedonia’s magnifi cent unoffi cial cultural capital

Getting around 42 Planes, trains and… London buses

directory 44 Shopping, hospitals, culture and more

where to Stay 50 Luxury spas to budget beds

Traditional gifts for sale everywhere in Ohrid (see p. 30).

July – December 2017 5 Foreword Arriving in Skopje A city of immense contrasts and an almost audible clash- ing of cultures, Skopje’s rich and diverse history dates back at least six millennia. Home to the Romans, Bulgarians, Ot- tomans, Communists and other dubious colonisers over the centuries, despite a catastrophic earthquake that fl attened huge swathes of the city as recently as 1963, Skopje retains ESSENTIAL CI T Y G U I D E S much of its original charm despite the best eff orts of the Publisher Japanese architect Kenzō Tange to asphyxiate the city with Skopje in Your Pocket concrete during its reconstruction. A city in which it’s almost Bul. K.J. Pitu 15-1/3 1000 Skopje, Macedonia impossible to fi nd bad food and where you’ll discover a 12th- Tel. +389 75 450 250 century church that literally (or rather fi guratively) changed [email protected] macedonia.inyourpocket.com the course of Western art, Skopje’s now reachable from more locations than ever with the local airport handling not one Director Vladimir Stefanovski but two of Europe’s leading low cost airlines. Oh, and should [email protected] you ever fi nd yourself in the unlikely situation of getting tired Editorial of the place, we’ve also thrown in a couple of handy guides Managing Editor Sco to the spectacular leisure and culture capitals of Ohrid and Contributor Jeroen van Marle Bitola for good measure. Enjoy. Design Mateja Štruc Photography Richard Schofi eld, Winery (p.16), Arriving at Kenzō Tange’s train station Fly Ohrid (p.32) Cover Photo Vasil Chekalarov Monument (©2017 Richard coveR StoRy Schofi eld) By Plane way streets only adds to the pandemonium. The arrival of Some 22 kilometres east of the city, Skopje Alexander the Sat Nav has drastically improved matters, and if you’re ar- Unveiled in 2013 as part of the Sales & Circulation Great Airport is small and easy to use. After disembarking riving in a rental car it’s worth checking to make sure it’s city’s Skopje 2014 project, Vasil Antoanela Petrovic, Snezana Stefanovska, Ivica Slavkovic and entering the main terminal building, follow the signs equipped with one. A couple of highways leading into Chekalarov Monument sits on until you reach passport control where you’ll be confront- the city require a small toll fee to be paid. Accordingly, it’s the roundabout opposite Skopje’s Printed by Data Pons (www.datapons.com.mk) Circulation 20,000 copies, two times per year ed with a row of booths currently off ering four options, highly recommended to be carrying some cash as foreign Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral namely All Passports, Citizens, MK Citizens and EU Citizens. currency and credit cards aren’t accepted. (see p. 22). The work of Elena and Copyright notice Once you’ve fi gured out who you are, passport checks are Darko Dukovski, the statue cel- Text and photographs copyright Skopje in Your Pocket. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any generally relaxed and friendly. The Arrivals and Departures By train ebrates the ‘cruel but competent halls are in the same building and share a range of facili- All trains arrive at Skopje’s one and only train station, an in- general’ Vasil Chekalarov (1874- form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The ties including ATMs, currency exchange, and information teresting concrete construction designed by the Japanese 1913), an infamous revolutionary fi gure and one of the brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In desk and a few shops and cafés. Getting to town A taxi architect Kenzō Tange to replace the building destroyed by leaders of the Internal Macedonian-Adrianople Revolu- Your Pocket, Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. +370 5 212 to the city centre should cost around 900den or €15 (pay- the 1963 earthquake. Sadly in a state of serious disrepair tionary Organisation. Read more about Skopje 2014 on 29 76. able in either currency) and the journey takes less than 30 and containing almost nothing in the way of facilities, if minutes. To the right of the exit, the Ekspres bus you need money, drink, food or cigarettes you’ll need to leaves approximately eight times a day. The fare is currently use the services at the adjoining bus station. The connect- 175den and the bus stops at Capitol Mall, the bus/train sta- ing door between the two is often locked, in which case it’s tion and the Holiday Inn hotel right in the centre of the city. necessary to leave via the main exit and snake left around From small acorns... the building. Getting to town See Arriving by bus (above). By BuS In 1992 a small team published the fi rst All international and long-distance buses arrive at Skopje’s when to go In Your Pocket guide to Vilnius in Lithuania. reasonably central bus station just east of the centre on ONLINE the southern side of the river. Inside, fi nd ATMs, a couple 25 years on In Your Pocket now covers of small shops selling sweets, drinks and cigarettes and a Macedonia, a small country by anyone’s standards, can over 100 cities throughout the world handful of windows and kiosks for buying onward tickets. claim a total of three very diff erent climates, namely Getting to town It’s possible to walk to the city centre in changed Mediterranean, mountainous and mildly in print, online and on mobile reaching about 15 minutes, or take bus N°23, which runs along Bul. continental. Average temperatures vary considerably over 10 million readers annually. Kuzman Josifovski Pitu. Taxis (and taxi drivers) can be found depending on where you are, with much of the coun- congregating outside the main entrance/exit. A ride into try receiving blissfully long and hot summers with rela- the centre shouldn’t cost more than 100den. If in doubt, tively mild and wet winters and other parts such as the negotiate a price before getting in the vehicle. mountains suff ering from long snowy winters and the briefest of chilly summers. At an altitude of 240m, Sko- By car pje becomes unbearably hot during much of July and PRINT MOBILE Arriving in Skopje by car can be stressful and confusing for August, one of the many reasons why Ohrid, at 693m, fi rst timers, especially for those who’ve never experienced is so popular during the summer. If you’re not coming If you’d like to join our group of independent local the miscellaneous idiosyncrasies of Balkan-style driv- to ski or lay on a sun bed, we recommend visiting in publishers we’d love to hear from you. Drop us a line at ing. Although major signs are written in both Cyrillic and late May when the spring fl owers are in full bloom and [email protected] Latin, there are few visual hints as to what might be the the temperature is pleasantly warm. city centre, and the somewhat bewildering system of one- 6 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 7 Restaurants Dojrana Essentially a Macedonian restaurant but with some good inter- national choices on the menu, Dojrana’s location is a little bit out the way but is worth the safari required to eat there. Well known for its čiorba (sour soup), most people make the effort to visit for the grilled meat, of which we thoroughly recom- mend the lamb with plenty of fresh salad, white cheese and a decent bottle of Macedonian red wine.Q513 22, tel. +389 23 17 50 37. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. P­A­L­B­W

Dukat Another Skopje favourite that often involves being carried to the car after eating here, this fine Macedonian establishment is always busy for a good reason and is definitely worth the trek to the western suburbs to enjoy its many pleasures. Fea- turing amiable waiters who wish only to bring yet another armload of dishes to your table, if you’re on a diet (and you might have to be after reviving yourself with an espresso), try the čiorba (sour soup), which comes in hanging copper pots with lashings of fresh white bread.QMitropolit Teodosij Go- Skillets of tavče gravče in an Old Bazaar restaurant. laganov 79, tel. +389 72 30 61 98. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­E­B­W

Most restaurants in Skopje are excellent, affordable, and Kancelarija increasingly diverse. The best way to enjoy a classic Mac- On the little Debar Maalo street everyone’s currently talking edonian blow-out is to employ the assistance of a local about, this is a great place to indulge in a endless supply of expert to take you through the menu before loading you small dishes of salad, grilled meat, fresh crusty bread and deli- into a wheelbarrow and pushing your bloated body back cious local white cheese until, with a big greasy grin on your to your hotel. face, you realise you’ve eaten enough for a week and it’s still only Monday lunchtime. For those who need to know these things, Kancelarija shows a lot of live European football on the Macedonian large outdoor screens.QBoemska Ulica, tel. +389 78 22 07 Čardak 22. Open 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W Another quality restaurant on Skopje’s current favourite little street, the waiters here must run the equivalent of Pivnica An a marathon on Friday and Saturday evenings such is the The 15th-century setting is pretty much unbeatable and the popularity of this place and the top notch food that’s pre- magnificent summer terrace is stunning to the point that pared in the kitchen. The excellent grilled meat is served you wouldn’t really be bothered if they served you a bowl of on wooden boards to add to the general rustic theme of damp cardboard. Thankfully, they’ve also got the food down the place and there’s regular live music featuring a range of to perfection, and there’s great selection of beer (after which usually very good and entertaining musicians.QBoemska the place is named) and wine too. An excellent option for a Ulica, tel. +389 70 41 09 19, www.restorancardak.mk. leisurely lunch where the courses just keep coming.QKapan Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W An 1472 (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 23 21 21 11, www.pivnicaan. mk. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W

Stara Kuka Found inside a traditional merchant’s konak house dating from 1838, this is one of the places where the locals drag for- eigners to experience real Macedonian cooking. The pretty ㈀ ㄀㘀 ㈀ ㄀㜀 building has beautifully carved wooden ceilings and a pleas- ant sheltered garden. Dig into a superb range of regional food including grilled meat, fish, fresh salads, stuffed peppers or courgettes, and sweet, sticky baklava for dessert.QPajko Maalo 14, tel. +389 23 13 13 76, www.starakuka.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. J­A­U­L­B­W 䴀椀琀爀漀瀀漀氀椀琀 吀攀漀搀漀猀椀樀 䜀漀氀漀最愀渀漀瘀 㜀㤀 For Ohrid restaurants see p. 31 ㄀ 匀欀漀瀀樀攀Ⰰ 䴀愀挀攀搀漀渀椀愀 For Bitola restaurants see p. 39 ⬀㌀㠀㤀 ㈀ ㌀㈀㄀㄀ ㄀㄀ 簀 ⬀㌀㠀㤀 㜀㈀ ㌀ 㘀 ㄀㤀㘀

8 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com 最漀猀琀椀氀渀椀挀愀搀July甀欀 愀– 琀December䀀最洀愀椀 氀2017⸀挀漀洀 9 Restaurants Restaurants fast food fuLL of BeanS faSt food 7 A strong contender for Macedonia’s national dish, Starting life way back in 1987, this legendary, family- tavče gravče (literally ‘beans in a skillet’) is served run fast food stall is based on giving its customers the everywhere and pairs perfectly with traditional very best quality food for the very best prices. After 30 homemade sausage, roasted vegetables or just years there’s still often a long queue here, which is proof about anything you can to mention. A life-saver enough in a country famed for its food that Fast Food 7 is for vegetarians navigating the land of grilled meat, up there among the giants of Skopje cuisine. The menu try it with a fresh local salad and lashings of white as you’d expect is packed with burgers, fries, chicken, Q cheese. hotdogs and the like. Borka Taleski 5, tel. +389 23 21 19 14, www.7.mk. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. P B S

chinese fine dininG PekinG Garden four Full of satisfi ed Chinese tourists when we visited and Overseen by the Belgrade-born Konstantin Katafaj and specialising in both Chinese and Japanese cuisine, the featuring a lively and at times entertaining open kitchen, chefs here are imported from China which we can assure the menu runs the gamut of dishes from Macedonian you makes a big diff erence. Tucked away in a courtyard favourites with a twist to the kind of sophisticated food and big enough to feed an army, lovers of Asian food you don’t see every day in the Balkans. With impressive hanging out for spring rolls, sushi and the link are in for price tags considering what you get, this is the perfect some good news. Their good value special lunch of- place to seal a business deal or celebrate a special occa- fers are particularly recommended.QMaksim Gorki 3, sion.Q1732 4 (Park Hotel & Spa), tel. +389 25 51 51 73, tel. +389 23 22 11 73, www.pekinggarden.mk. Open www.parkhotel.mk. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. P A B W - 01:00. P A B W

olive international So sophisticated they decided to put it on Paris Street, BarBakan everything from the décor to the service to the im- A great place for club sandwiches, burgers, tapas, pizza pressive selection of fine international dishes make and a handful of exquisitely prepared larger dishes, this Olive one of the top choices for the city’s hungry and popular, bistro-style aff air to the west of the centre and demanding elite. It’s not unusual to hear French and close to City Park is a laid-back aff air that sees all manner Italian spoken here, which is probably praise enough of diners including many of the city’s young profession- for any restaurant. If you’re in a hurry, the pizzas are als congregate for its quick service, good prices and fa- unforgettable, and the veal literally melts in the mouth. mous happy hour. A relaxing summer terrace opens dur- Fabulous choice of wine too.QPariska bb, tel. +389 23 ing the warmer part of the year and there’s occasional 06 66 23, www.olive.mk. Open 09:00 - 23:45. Closed live music to boot.QBul. 8-mi Septemvri 18, tel. +389 Sun. P A B W 23 07 50 93. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. P A B W vodenica mulino Unquestionably one of Skopje’s classiest restaurants, BruklinSki this recommended diversion in the west of the city Home of the epic Bruklinski Burger, Bruklinski (or Bruk- was opened by chef Stojan Filiposki who spent de- lynski) is a Debar Maalo bistro-style restaurant most of cades perfecting his skills in Italy. Specialising in the week serving a great range of food and drink in- Italian food including some truly outstanding pasta, cluding everything from poached eggs to wine to the seafood and risotto dishes, Vodenica Mulino is also aforementioned house speciality, all to a background home to an exclusive wine, the so-called National of piped jazz music that turns live at the weekends. Cellar and even conference facilities for the ultimate Good for food and coffee anytime, the bands that play business lunch and dinner. Find it among a row of here are varied in style and it’s definitely worth hav- standout places between Intermezzo and Dukat. ing a peep inside if you’re doing an evening tour of the QTeodosij Golaganov 69, tel. +389 23 23 28 77, area.QOrce Nikolov 75, tel. +389 26 09 18 44. Open www.vodenicamulino.com.mk. Open 12:00 - 24:00, 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. P A B W P A W 10 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 11 Restaurants Soul Kitchen Language One of a number of similar places stretched out along the Kej, Soul Kitchen is a busy and by most accounts friendly Macedonian is a South Slavic language written using a place to stop and eat in that prides itself on serving mostly unique variation of the Cyrillic alphabet, a letter system Macedonian favourites with lots of modern twists. We originally invented in Macedonia with more than a little recommend the savoury pancakes or the huge plates of help from Sts. Cyril and Methodius during the 9th cen- light fried snacks accompanied with one of their bottles tury. Macedonian is the official state language of the of Macedonian wine. The covered outdoor terrace is open country, with Albanian possessing official minority rights around the year and is a great place for coffee and watching in areas where ethnic Albanians make up more than 25 the world drift slowly by.QKej 13 Noemvri, tel. +389 78 88 percent of the population. Sharing many common words 77 33, www.soulkitchenbar.mk. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, with other Slavic languages including Bulgarian and Rus- Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W sian, Macedonian also includes a considerable amount of loan words adopted during its long and multicultural The Loft history and has an unusual sound when spoken in which Just freshly opened in time for the summer season as we a distinct Turkish influence can definitely be heard. To were going to press, this high class rooftop restaurant and make life complicated, many shop, bar, restaurant and bar with awesome views of the city is the latest place to go other venue signs prefer to use variations of the Latin and meet some of Skopje’s beautiful people, dine on qual- alphabet and/or Albanian words, a fact that goes a long ity international food, drink classy drinks and listen to music way towards explaining the somewhat erratic spell- from some of the most respected young DJs and others in ing conventions used throughout this guide. Visitors to Macedonia and abroad. As night descends on the city, The Macedonia with no knowledge of Cyrillic are strongly Loft becomes more of a club than a classic restaurant.QKej advised to take a crash course in the alphabet, although 13ti Noemvri (Garage Solunski Kongres), tel. +389 71 27 it’s not that difficult to get by without it. 20 00. Open 10:00 - 01:00. P­AB­W

Trend Distrikt Bar & Kitchen An excellent club, bar, lounge and restaurant in one, Trend The Skopje Marriott’s ground floor terrace bar and open serves great international food from a helpfully photo- kitchen is one of the hottest locations in town, a classic graphic menu and features friendly waiters who remember Marriott incarnation aimed at well-heeled locals, expats you the second time you visit. It’s the personal touches that and business travellers looking for great food, a terrific view make places like this such a hit, and the location is hard to and a whole host of extras including DJs, special themed beat too. The Trend brand is currently expanding around events and the quintessential Marriott Sunday brunch. A the city. Keep an eye out for their other recommended ven- welcome addition to Skopje’s going out venues for all occa- ues.QPloshtad Makedonija 2/4, tel. +389 71 36 88 46, sions.QPlostad Makedonija 7 (Skopje Marriott), tel. +389 www.caffetrend.mk. Open 08:00:23:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 25 10 25 35, www.distrikt.mk. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 01:00. P­J­A­B­W 07:00 - 01:00. P­J­A­B­W Twins Kitchen & Wine Pelister Located around the back of the Park Hotel & Spa and over- One of our favourite places to eat on Macedonia Square, looking the river, this mildly experimental place draws the extensive menu focuses on Italian dishes (the pizza customers in partly thanks to the amazing salads they comes highly recommended) but also offers a range of make, but there’s plenty of other light bites to explore Macedonian and international favourites including one or from burgers to pizza. They also dedicate a lot of their two vegetarian specials. The outdoor summer terrace is energy towards stocking an impressive selection of wine, big, and gets very busy during the day and the evening, all of it for a good price and best enjoyed when the sun’s but is worth a visit if you’re not in a hurry if only to get a fix shining on their large outdoor terrace.QKej 13 Noemvri of their rocket fuel espresso.QMacedonia square bb, tel. (Park Hotel & Spa), tel. +389 75 20 43 38, www.twins. +389 23 11 24 82, www.pelisterhotel.com.mk. Open com.mk. Open 09:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 00:00. P­J­B­W

Public Room Italian An interesting non-profit venture close to the Mother Teresa La Terrazza Hospital just to the south of the centre, Public Room’s restau- This impressive restaurant does an excellent job at com- rant specialises in a range of healthy dishes that are popular bining the very best of nouvelle cuisine and good old- with all the family. As well as serving food, the place also acts fashioned Italian favourites. Recommended by those in as an art gallery, performance space, co-working centre and the know for their pizzas cooked in an authentic wood venue for all manner of different creative workshops.Q50 oven, find it tucked away just off Plostad Makedonija. Divizija 22, tel. +389 26 09 26 50, www.publicroom.org. QPloshtad Makedonija, tel. +389 23 11 33 80. Open Open 08:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W 08:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W

12 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Cafés Mexican keBap hipster cafés amiGoS mad kitchen & Bar By most accounts a much better attempt at a Mexican deStan The lovely young gentleman who served us in this recom- restaurant than many in the Balkans, the menu includes A famed kebab restaurant in the Old Bazaar popular mended Debar Maalo venue came with all the prerequisite all your favourites and a few surprises plus the added with Westerners due to its overall cleanliness, the hipster trappings including a handlebar moustache of such bonus of cold Mexican beer in the refrigerator. During barbecued food here comes highly recommended epic proportions that we weren’t sure whether to ask him for the warmer part of the year they open up a barbecue on plus there’s photographs of old Skopje on the walls an espresso or get on him and ride him back to the hotel. Not the terrace. A little bit expensive for Skopje, but worth it to keep you occupied whilst you wait. Those looking only is this Skopje’s current premiere hipster haunt, it’s also a anyway.QMakedonija 11, tel. +389 71 23 03 14, www. for a more ‘local’ experience should shuffl e across the great café to spend time in if you’re in the vicinity.QNaum amigos.com.mk. Open 09:00 - 01:00. P J A B W street to the excellent albeit less salubrious Kaj Serdar- Naumovski Borce 62, tel. +389 77 65 15 57. Open 09:00 - ot.Q106 4 (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 23 22 40 63, www. 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. P A B W out of town destan.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 23:00. A B W canyon matka ice-creaM An unbeatable canyon-side location, bustling waiters good time to visit this fi ne restaurant when the massive radoSt and an impressive menu of Macedonian fare greet visi- garden terraces are open, the barbecues are in full swing Despite only selling chocolate and vanilla fl avours here, tors to Canyon Matka. In many ways a victim of its own and the live music is playing.QSarajska 1, tel. +389 22 Radost is still the most popular place to come for ice- success, the place gets so crowded during the summer 05 79 58, www.oreovlad.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 24:00. cream and for good reason. It’s the best, and the choice you’ll wish you’d bought sandwiches. Their upstairs hotel P A L B W of toppings more than makes up for everything. This is comes with some of the best views in the city.QMatka, also a great place to drop by for a decent cup of cof- tel. +389 22 05 26 55, www.canyonmatka.mk. Open fee when you need one.QMaksim Gorki 21, tel. +389 08:00 - 24:00. P A B W seafood 75 36 55 24. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. frutti di marre P A W oreov lad An old Debar Maalo favourite, Frutti di Marre specialis- Especially recommended for those travelling in large Sticky desserts to go with your coff ee. es in simple dishes packed with complicated tastes. We groups and on the left of the road immediately south of pÂtisseries recommend one of their popular soups at any time of the Albanian-dominated village of Saraj on the way to the year, especially during the summer when you can cakeS & BakeS the , the warmer months of the year are a feel café serves a cracking coff ee, off ers a few snacks and enjoy it on their relaxing outdoor terrace. Seasoned From the profi terole to the cheesecake, everything in this top hosts regular DJs who try to blend with rather than domi- experts in everything they do, the wine menu has quality Turkish café has been made with the best ingredients nate the environment.QPartizanski Odredi 14, tel. +389 been very carefully selected to bring out the best in and is prepared with that magic touch that the Turks seem 23 10 78 78. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun everything you try here.QRade Koncar 5, tel. +389 23 so masterly at. Find muffi ns, brownies, tiramisu and all your 10:00 - 12:00. P A B W 13 21 45, www.fruttidimare.mk. Open 09:00 - 24:00. favourite desserts waiting to be devoured and washed down P A B W with some extremely memorable coff ee.QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 22 58 09 22. Open 24hrs. P A W wacky cafés Sidro miG 21 Serving knockout fresh fi sh including salmon, calamari, traditional cafés Founded by a member of the popular Macedonian band squid and a particular good fi sh stew, the interior of this of the same name and pulling in a large percentage of massively popular restaurant is done up to look like an mekicite od Straza Debar Maalo’s arty bohemian crowd, this is a highly rec- old fi sherman’s cabin and the summer terrace has been An extremely versatile café popular with the locals that ommended place to spend a few hours sipping coff ee or equally jollied up with plenty of fi shing nets and other not only serves great coff ee and passable burgers but that something a little stronger and generally getting to know similar paraphernalia. One of the better places here- somewhat bizarrely also sells their own branded bags of some of the city’s more colourful eccentrics. The music abouts to get proper octopus, booking in advance at fl our. There’s a good reason for this, and readers are en- policy is better than most other places, and DJs are known the weekends is highly recommended.QAtinska 21, tel. couraged to pop along to discover the logic behind the to come and liven the place up a bit on a regular basis. +389 23 05 16 07. Open 10:00 - 24:00. P A B W madness. A great place to unwind in the middle of the day, QMakedonija bb, tel. +389 77 90 22 20. Open 08:00 - Mekicite od Straza also has a place half way along the road 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P A B W to Ohrid that attracts visitors in the same way a holy relic sushi attracts pilgrims on the road to Jerusalem.QMakedonija Sindikat SuShi co 41, tel. +389 75 21 38 98, www.mekiciteodstraza.com. Another Debar Maalo favourite, Sindikat is a fi ve-star, The Turkish chain of restaurants specialising in Japanese, Open 07:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P­J­A­ tongue-in-cheek parody of Yugoslav communism mixed Chinese and Thai cuisine now has a presence in Skopje, B W together with an 80s hip-hop attitude of peace and and hallelujah to that. Everything from the décor to the brotherhood with just a dash of Macedonian irony. At master chefs is authentic and the menu is as long as a To- vinyl least we think it is. It’s hard to say really. Hypothesis aside, kyo telephone directory. Alongside a fabulous range of One of Skopje’s more pleasant surprises, Vinyl was started this is a welcome addition to going out in Skopje and a sushi are noodles, bento boxes and much, much more. by a couple of friends who as so often happens opened genuinely eccentric place to meet like-minded souls. Sur- Note that their home delivery menu is diff erent to the the kind of place they wanted to hang out in but that plus to the colourful clientele is the usual roll call of good one in the restaurant.QAminta Treti 29, tel. +389 23 21 didn’t exist at the time. Found in a convenient location coff ee, alcohol, light snacks and DJs.QOrce Nikolov 97, 78 74, www.sushico.com.mk. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, for those who fi nd themselves walking regularly between tel. +389 76 45 45 15. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - Sat 10:00 - 01:00. P A B W the city centre and Debar Maalo, this classic, industrial- 01:00. P A B W 14 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 15 WineRestaurants Wine Macedonia boasts a near-perfect climate for growing wine Bovin grapes and produces some 100,000 tonnes of them annu- Macedonia’s first privately built winery was estab- ally in vineyards covering a total area of over 30,000 hectares. lished in 1998 and has a capacity of 1.5 million bottles Add to these statistics the fact that the country’s also respon- a year split between around 70% red and 30% white. sible for some of the best food in Southern Europe and you’ll Aimed at high-end consumers, their wines, including start to understand why wine is such an important part of Vranec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir the culture and why the local stuff is so good. Around 80 per- are exported all over the world. Bovin also produces cent of the wine produced in the country is red, with nearly rakija and the company offers special wine-tasting all of both the red and white originating from the vineyards events for groups of between 10 and 60 people.QIn- of Povardarie, Pčinja-Osogovo and Pelagonija-Polog. With dustriska bb, tel. +389 43 36 53 22, www.bovin. both its long history and popularity in the country, wine is a com.mk. subject that many people know a lot about, including most of the waiters working in the vast majority of the restaurants kamnik mentioned in this guide. If you need any help, there’s plenty Founded in 2004, Kamnik produces a number of reds, around. Personally we’re a bit traditional and prefer to drink whites, sparkling wines and a cheeky rosé sold un- Vranec, a dry red made from the grape of the same name der the name Sexy. Their 15 hectares of vineyards that’s among the most popular in the country. We’re no form part of an estate that produces everything experts, it just happens to go down very well with grilled from Syrah, to Vranec to Chardonnay to Sauvignon meat, fresh salad, white bread and white cheese. The follow- Blanc. Particularly active in the tourist industry, Kam- ing producers all come highly recommended. As you’ll see, nik offers several opportunities to taste their wines some of them also off er wine tours which are a great way to and it’s also possible to get a complete tour of their get to know the country, its culture and its drinking habits. vineyard.QKamnik bb, tel. +389 22 52 35 22, www. chateaukamnik.com.

SoPot More wine online A small boutique winery founded just over a decade macedonia.inyourpocket.com ago that focuses on exclusive wines that are available only in high class restaurants and hotels in Macedonia Vineyards as far as the eye can see and abroad, Sopot prioritises quality over quantity and produces an impressive range of reds, whites and rosés including Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay and Temjanika. Visiting their vineyard for wine-tasting events and cellar tours is available by appointment only.QMunicipality of Veles, tel. +389 78 36 31 67, www.chateausopot.mk.

StoBi New kid on the block Stobi is already turning out an impressive 4.5 million litres of wine in four distinct categories of which their Premium varieties include Syrah Barrique, Merlot Barrique, Aminta and Vranec Veritas. Dedicated to sharing their love and expe- riences with the rest of the world, Stobi, that also features a restaurant on its territory, organises a wide range of events including tours and corporate functions.QAvtopat 2, tel. +389 78 36 31 67, www. stobiwinery.mk.

tikveš The history of this classic winery dates back to the second half of the19th century and a time when the organised production and sale of wine in Macedonia is first recognised to have started. Producing a stag- gering array of products from high-end wine to table wines to rakija, organised wine tours here involve a history of the company and several different options for groups and individuals in their lovely wine cellar. Q29-ti Noemvri 5, tel. +389 23 17 59 66, www.tikves. com.mk.

16 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 17 NightlifeArriving & Getting Around Nightlife busy one at Van Gogh, with live music, salsa dancing and DJs all regular occurrences. It doesn’t matter what you look like Alcohol or what you prefer to drink in here, it’s a genuinely pleasant if occasionally hectic bar whose longevity says everything you The three most popular alcoholic drinks in Macedonia, need to know about the place.QMihail Cakov 4, tel. +389 are rakija, a fruit brandy made from grapes or much less 23 12 18 76. Open 08:00 - 01:00. P­E­B­W commonly plums that often precedes lunch and is an indispensable accompaniment at almost all celebra- tions, locally produced wine (vino, see p. 16), which is Clubs of exceptionally good quality, and beer (pivo), of which Intermezzo the most widespread brands are Skopsko, the Skopje- A great venue popular for its wonderful summer terrace that brewed market leader that also produces a rare dark doubles as a café during the day and a well frequented night beer, and Zlaten Dab, which is brewed in Prilep. Craft bar later in the evening, Intermezzo’s bar is well stocked with beer is becoming increasingly popular. Temov, the beers and spirits and plenty of champagne, the latter being country’s first craft beer producer, is based in the Old the popular drink of choice among the city elite who you’ll Bazaar in Skopje and its Reinheitsgebot-inspired ales often find partying here during the weekend parties. A veri- are appearing in more and more bars and restaurants table magnet for the loveliest looking ladies and gentlemen around the city. The Duty Free shop at Skopje Airport in town, this is one of the few places around where you’ll find sells lots of local wine which make great gifts and sou- foreign DJs keeping the crowd alive long into the night.QN- venirs. Strolling at night along Makedonija. aroden front 5/2, tel. +389 23 23 95 39. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W

Although far from being a nightlife hotspot, Skopje offers but you will find plenty of wannabe models and movie Jukebox Marakana plenty of enticing options for everyone, from quiet bars stars high on cocktails and gazing at the DJs. In a slightly The 1950s Belgian jukebox hasn’t spun a disc in years, but it A long thin venue with a large bar specialising in live mu- for intimate evenings with friends and lovers to clubs with obscure location, ask a local to help you find it if you get doesn’t seem to bother the local eccentrics and intellectu- sic every night, mostly in the form of jazz and blues. The girls dancing about wearing little more than their birthday lost.QBlagoj Davkov 1, tel. +389 23 33 22 23. Open als who pack the place to bursting during the weekends in set-up at Marakana is rudimentary with mostly standing suits. As happens every year throughout the country, many 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W order to watch, cheer, heckle and dance to the various cab- room only, a wooden floor to drop your cigarettes on, and of the best clubs appear out of nowhere and open their aret bands, stand-up comedians and others who perform a small stage. One predominantly for the older crowd, the doors to the masses for the short summer period only. Piazza Liberta here. A recommended stop-off point on a Debar Maalo venue can be found in City Park and is inside the building A mostly educated crowd gather here in the upstairs bar weekend night out, Jukebox is a relatively tame bar during containing the restaurant of the same name.Q1732 8, tel. most evenings to drink, chatter and generally throw peanut the rest of the week.QOrce Nikolov 99, tel. +389 23 22 72 +389 23 22 15 48. Open 23:00 - 05:00. P­A­W Bars shells over their trousers. You get complimentary peanuts 94. Open 22:00 - 04:00. P­A­E­W Austrian Palace with every drink here you see, and on a good night going This large and by all accounts frenetic bar on two floors to the toilet is not unlike shuffling your way across a huge Irish pubs in the Old Bazaar functions as an ordinary café-restaurant hamster cage. The bar is named after Sloboda Square, St Patrick during the day, although it’s during the evenings that the the public space that inhabited this spot until the 1963 Known to everyone including the expats who keep the place really comes into itself. Popular with students and earthquake ruined nearly all the surrounding buildings. place open as the Irish pub, this long-standing Skopje featuring a large open terrace at the back, Austrian Palace’s Also open during the day, surplus to the drinks and afore- institution on the Kej across from the Old Bazaar comes décor is the work of two young Albanian designers and is a mentioned nuts Piazza Liberta features a menu of simple with a Victorian railway theme and a bar that stocks fun place to eat, get pickled on cheap cocktails and forget dishes from breakfast to good value spaghetti.QDimitrie draught Guinness. There’s bar snacks galore, live music at about the world until it crashing back in with the hangover Cupovski 24, tel. +389 23 22 48 07, www.piazzaliberta. the weekends and a very pleasant outdoor terrace on the in the morning.QTeodosij Golaganav 3 (Old Bazaar), tel. mk. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. P­A­W edge of the water.QKej 13 Noemvri 8, tel. +389 23 25 63 +389 70 43 52 72. Open 08:00 - 01:00. P­B­W 37, www.irishpub.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat Siesta 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W Cosy A swanky gastropub near the City Museum featuring An innocent-looking Debar Maalo bar and the best if not a talking-point interior, some interesting dishes on the the only place in town to drink yourself delirious on over menu and a refrigerator bursting with ice-cold bottles of Microbreweries 60 unusual beers from Belgium, Germany, Macedonia and beer including Skopsko Dark (Temno), one of a tiny hand- Pivnica Star Grad the Netherlands. Friendly and providing a small menu of ful of non-light beers available anywhere in the country. Macedonia’s first microbrewery churns out some excel- snacks to keep you drinking until after midnight, Cosy also Casual and classy at the same time, this is a good option lent quality craft beer in their Old Bazaar-located bar. The organising beer tastings and is available for private func- for an early evening meal with a drink or two before mov- family-run business adheres to the German Reinheitsge- tions.QKosturski Heroi 4a, tel. +389 70 36 42 24. Open ing on to one of the city’s more lively areas.QLuj Paster bot system of brewing, ensuring the beer in question is as 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 01:00. P­B­W 11, tel. +389 77 66 66 03. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat pure as possible, and the bar itself is worth a visit if you’re 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. P­A­W in the area and fancy a pint. The owners recently opened Kino Karpoš a second venue, Temov, on Plostad Makedonija and their Not surprisingly perhaps, this hugely popular Debar Maa- Van Gogh unique and highly commendable products are slowly start- lo venue is decorated with more than a passing nod to the A Skopje institution that’s been going for over three decades, ing to appear in other venues around the city.QSamoilova cinema industry. Café by day and busy bar by night, you’re Van Gogh is the quintessential good time bar featuring lots bb (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 76 46 23 72, www.oldtown- unlikely to bump into many quantum physicists in here, of quirky additions and a cheerful arty crowd. The week’s a Not Skopje 2014. brewerytemov.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W 18 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 19 Sightseeing Sightseeing

Skopje Fortress (Скопско Кале) Contemporary Art Museum of Macedonia Archaeological excavations show that people have been (Музеј на Современа Уметност) living on the hill above what’s now the Old Bazaar since Owing its existence to the 1963 earthquake after which at least the Bronze Age. A town was first founded here in several sympathetic nations bequeathed works of art to the early Byzantine era during the 6th and 7th centuries the flattened and impoverished city, this much talked when the huge blocks of stone still visible in the fortress’ about building between the and the mas- walls were dragged here from , the nearby town that sive US Embassy features works from home and abroad was destroyed during the 518AD earthquake. This was the of which the latter includes pieces by Pablo Picasso and great town of Justinia Prima, founded by Justin- Alexander Calder. As tempting as it sounds, the admis- ian I (c.482-565). From the 14th to the 20th century the Ot- sion price is pretty steep, the staff could be more helpful tomans used the fortress as a military barracks, expanding and most of the work can be seen through the windows. the number of towers to 70 of which only three remain to- You decide.QSamoilova bb, tel. +389 23 11 77 34. Open day. The 1963 earthquake flattened much of the fortress, 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. including many of the walls, some of which are being re- built. Ongoing excavation work over the last decade or Mother Teresa Memorial House so has revealed many fascinating finds including ancient (Спомен Куќа на Мајка Тереза) musical instruments and, in 2010, the largest collection of Built on the site of the former Sacred Heart of Jesus Ca- Byzantine-era coins ever discovered in Macedonia. Best thedral in which she was baptised, this interesting diver- visited with the aid of a local tour guide, there’s not much sion for some and compulsory pilgrimage for others cel- to see these days although the views on a clear day are ebrates the life and work of the Skopje-born Catholic nun quite spectacular.QSamoilova. Open 08:00 - 18:00. and missionary Anjezë Gonxhe Bojaxhiu, better known to the world as Mother Teresa (1910-1997). On two floors and (Камен Мост) entered through the door at the top of the stairs, inside is If you stop and think for a minute about how many a host of Teresa memorabilia, personal effects and, on the people from every echelon of society and representing top floor, a veritable shrine complete with large windows, so many diverse cultures have walked over this relatively intricate filigree and a large black and white photograph Q small bridge connecting Macedonia Square with the of the woman herself. Makedonija 9, tel. +389 23 29 06 Old Bazaar since its original construction over 550 years 74, www.memorialhouseofmotherteresa.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. ago you’ll understand why it’s one of the main symbols of the city and why it features on Skopje’s coat of arms. Built on the site of an earlier Roman bridge, the current crossing is made from solid stone blocks and features a total of 12 arches. At 214m from end to end and just 6m Museum of Macedonian Struggle (see p. 22) wide, the bridge narrowly escaped being blown up by the Nazis in 1944, has been used as an execution site Unlike many other Balkan capitals such as Belgrade, Sofia and Old Bazaar (Стара Чаршија) in the past and is often populated with hawkers selling Zagreb, which only grew to importance during the 19th cen- Probably founded some time around the 12th century, cheap Chinese souvenirs and scruffy Romani kids bang- tury, Skopje is an ancient city dating back several millennia. As Skopje’s marvellous Old Bazaar was once a major Ottoman ing drums for spare change. such it’s made up of many fascinating and often contradicting trading centre and its role as a place where old trades and cultural and historical layers that are visible in everything from traditions once flourished still continues to this day albeit to a Museums & Galleries the architecture to the food. Many of the city’s museums are much lesser extent. At the height of its importance, the area stuck in a Tito-era time warp, but don’t let this put you off. It’s contained some 30 and other Ottoman buildings City Museum (Музеј на Град Скопје) impossible to come away from any of the sights listed below of which several fine examples have survived. Very much an Drawing on a collection of almost 22,000 individual ar- without having gained a deeper insight into the beautiful and Albanian dominated part of town, the Macedonian authori- tefacts, what this fascinating museum housed inside the complicated country that’s Macedonia. A small fee is charged ties recently took the bold step of adopting a law recognising ruined carcass of the city’s exquisite 1940 train station for admission to several of the places listed here, so don’t for- the Old Bazaar as a place of outstanding cultural heritage and lacks in financial support it more than makes up forin get to carry some cash with you when visiting. as such a lot of work has been carried out making it more content. Among the exhibits are costumes, photographs presentable to tourists. Of particular interest is the Bezistan, and personal possessions from a number of Macedonian a covered market where the most precious items for sale in a minorities including the Albanians, Jews, Romani, Serbs Essential Skopje bazaar were traditionally kept. Skopje’s Bezistan was original and Vlachs, and the 6,000-year-old, 15cm clay Adam The following three choices are naturally subjective and are built in the 15th century by Gazi Ishak Bey, although several from Govrlevo (Адам од Говрлево) statue, discovered listed here partly because of their central location. If you’ve subsequent fires and earthquakes have take its toll and the in 2000 and put on display here in 2006. The statue is only got limited time to see Skopje, we recommend you try current incarnation dates from renovation work carried out ranked among the world’s top 10 artefacts, as them not least because they’re all close to each other and are in 1899. A visit to the Old Bazaar is an absolute must when in is perhaps the earliest representation of a human fig- surrounded by a handful of other fabulous sights. If you’ve got town. Wandering its narrow, traffic-free streets, browsing the ure including ribs, spine, belly button and a regrettably a little more time on your hands, the frescos inside the small unusual shops, stopping somewhere for köfte and Turkish chopped-off erection.QKiril i Metodij bb, tel. +389 23 12th-century church at the St. Pantelejmon Monastery (see coffee and exploring its increasingly unconventional night- 11 36 09, www.mgs.org.mk. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Out of town) are absolutely compulsory visiting. life venues are one of the great pleasures of visiting Skopje. Mon, Sun. Skopje. Ancient city. 20 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 21 Sightseeing the long and often painful history of the nation as it sought the building consists solely of arches and . It has a then take two right turns onto a dirt track and you’ll find it at to seek its own sovereignty from the period of Ottoman oc- massive chandelier hanging from a central that also the end of a narrow path on the left. The structure is clearly cupation through to 1991. Composed of 13 separate rooms features a large Jesus Pantocrator fresco.QBul.Partizan- marked on Google Maps.QBul Slovenija, Vizbegovo. focusing on different aspects of the struggle, the museum ski Odredi 17, tel. +389 77 53 57 83. is packed with fascinating artefacts, documents and weap- Plostad Makedonija ons and also features a collection of wax models represent- St. Demetrius’ Church (Плоштад Македонија) ing some of the most important heroes of the period. Visi- (црква Св. Димитрија) Dramatically enlarged by the destruction of the massive tors are guided through the exhibition by a group of young Although the present church has its origins in the 16th cen- National Bank and Army House during the 1963 earthquake and friendly local historians.Q11 Mart 1, tel. +389 23 25 66 tury, most of the current building, located in the old Jewish and until recently surrounded by mostly nondescript archi- 67, www.mmb.org.mk. Open 10:00 - 18:00. quarter at the northern end of the Stone Bridge, dates from tecture, this vast open space is a popular spot to meet and around 1886. The relatively dark and unremarkable interior socialise and is today instantly recognisable thanks to the National Archeology Museum was subject to a supposed miracle during Easter 2012 when huge Warrior on a Horse monument dominating its cen- (Национален Археолошки Музеј) the frescos, darkened by decades of accumulated candle tre. Featuring little of its original form with the exception of Built as part of the Skopje 2014 project, the National Archaeo- smoke, began returning to their original bright state, a the now protected 1926 Ristiḱ Palace, familiar to all thanks logical Museum, which also houses the National Archives, is cause of continued speculation and probably the result of to the massive Skopsko beer ad on the roof, Plostad Make- laid out on three floors representing the huge diversity of increased humidity.QPlostad Karposhovo Vostanie. donija (Macedonia Square) is surrounded by an increasing Macedonian life and culture from prehistory to the Ottoman number of decent bars and restaurants and for many visi- period and beyond. Featuring over 6,000 artefacts including tors it will become a familiar and often visited landmark. flint axes, ancient coins, old paintings, mosaics, wax figures Places of interest and video displays, this a fabulous place to start a crash Aqueduct (Аквадукт) course in Macedonian history.QKej Dimitar Vlahov, tel. The cause of much speculation as to just who built it and Ottoman Skopje +389 23 23 39 99, www.amm.org.mk. Open 10:00 - 18:00. exactly how old it is, Skopje’s beautiful albeit abandoned Hundreds of years of Ottoman domination have left Sko- Aqueduct lies in the middle of a field just a couple of kilo- pje with a distinct Oriental look and feel, and many monu- metres northwest of the city on the northern edge of the Il- ments from the period remain. You’re welcome to visit Churches inden Barracks. Although some claim the structure is Roman, the mosques free of charge outside prayer times. Just ask Church of the Ascension of Jesus its orientation suggests it dates from a later period and that around for the caretaker if the doors happen to be locked. (Црква Св. Спас) it’s either Byzantine or Ottoman in origin. Made of stone and To enter a , you should take off your shoes outside, This small church notable for its unusual wooden bell brick and featuring 55 surviving arches, to get there take the being careful not to place them on the carpet, and be tower was famously built of couple of metres under- E-65 towards Kosovo until you reach the village of Vizbegovo modestly dressed. ground to please the Ottomans and as such is easily overlooked if you’re not paying attention. Another his- torical building whose precise history has been lost, its contemporary appearance for dates from the early 19th century although some aspects stretch back sev- eral centuries before. Famed for its outstanding wooden iconostasis, the church is the final resting place of the revolutionary martyr Goce Delčev (1872-1903) to whom The 6,000-year-old Adam from Govrlevo at the City Museum a small museum has also been built.QSamoilova, tel. (see p.20). +389 23 23 07 80.

Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral Museum of Macedonia (Музеј на (Католичка Црква) Македонија) Designed by Blagoja Mickovski (1931-2002) and Slavko The large, white and distinctly decrepit Yugoslav building Gjurich (1931-1980) and constructed between 1973 and just below the is the central loca- 1977, this fine example of eccentric Yugoslav raw concrete tion for a series of museums located around the Old Ba- design replaced the Catholic church of the same name de- zaar including at the must-see Kuršumli An. Packed with stroyed by the 1963 earthquake where the Mother Teresa various cultural items from traditional women’s bridal Memorial House now stands. Complete with an equally costumes to icons, there’s a huge amount of overlap with bizarre bell tower and one of the few buildings from the other museums in the city centre, and, despite the state period that genuinely deserves a visit, Mass is usually held of the place, it’s still a highly recommended place to visit. in Croatian although they sometimes conduct it in Eng- QKjurciska, tel. +389 23 12 93 23. Open 09:00 - 17:00. lish.QPetar Pop Arsov 47, tel. +389 23 22 91 67. Closed Mon. St. Clement of Ohrid Cathedral Museum of Macedonian Struggle (Соборен Храм) (Музеј на ВМРО) Just west of the centre stands Skopje’s modern Orthodox Opened in 2011 on the 20th anniversary of Macedonian in- Cathedral building, also known as the Ministry Temple, dependence, the Museum of the Macedonian Struggle for with Saint Clement of Ohrid as its patron. Built in 1972 Statehood and Independence to give it its full name charts by architect Slavko Brezovski and consecrated in 1992,

22 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 23 Sightseeing of the Jews of Bitola by the occupying Bulgarians prior to their extermination the following year. Also featur- Tetovo ing a wide range of other artefacts including, allegedly, one of the train wagons that sent some of the country’s Easily reachable in less than an hour by either bus Jews to their death in Poland, don’t pay too much at- or car and perched at the foothills of the impres- tention to the opening hours listed here as the museum sive Šar Mountains approximately 40km west of doesn’t do a great job at sticking to them. If you visit and Skopje, the predominantly ethnic Albanian town the doors are bolted, bang hard and somebody might of Tetovo offers one or two must-see attractions let you in.QSamoilova 2, tel. +389 23 29 80 25, www. for anyone with an interest in the history of the holocaustfund.org. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. region in general and the diversity of in par- ticular. Offering a tantalising glimpse into local Al- Monuments banian urban culture, the town centre is an inter- esting place to explore on foot and is blessed with Skopje 2014 (Скопје 2014) plenty of good places to eat and drink although Taking controversial kitsch to dizzy new heights, depend- its Tetovo’s two key Muslim sights that draw most ing on who you want to believe this massive undertaking of the town’s attention. Close to the centre is designed to both commemorate the centenary of Mace- the jaw-dropping Decorated Mosque, originally donian independence as well as to give the city a more constructed in 1438 by Isak Bey and rebuilt four ‘classical’ look and feel has so far cost the taxpayer any- centuries later by Abdurrahman Pasha. Impressive thing from between €80 million and €560 million. Fea- enough on the outside, the real attraction awaits turing dozens of statues, several new high profile build- The breath-taking interior of Tetovo’s Decorated Mosque (see right). in the interior, proof if ever it was needed that far ings and a handful of new bridges and concrete ships, from being a suspicious religion, Islam represents the crowning centrepiece is the vast Warrior on a Horse art and culture in abundance. Supposedly requir- Čifte Hamam (Чифте Амам) classical concerts and other events.QBul.Goce Delcev (Old monument in Macedonia Square, a statue that everybody ing more than 30,000 eggs to prepare the paint, Dating from the middle of the 15th century, the Čifte Bazaar), tel. +389 23 13 31 02, www.nationalgallery.mk. knows is supposed to represent Alexander the Great but the walls and ceiling are ablaze with brightly (Double) Hamam in the heart of the Old Bazaar was used Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. that few are admitting to. Causing everything from cries coloured images of flowers, geometric patterns as a bath house as it was originally intended until 1915. of despair to indignant outrage (including the story of one and a rare example of a depiction of Mecca. Half The layout of the building is symmetrical, with the heat- Mustafa Pasha Mosque statue whose manhood had to be covered with a pair of a kilometre or so to the west is the impressive ing room at its centre and separate bathing areas for men (Мустафа Паша Џамија) hastily manufactured metal underpants after a group of Arabati Baba Tekke, the best surviving example of and women, each with their own entrance, at either ends Towering above the Old Bazaar and featuring a mighty, female politicians working across the street complained), a Bektashi monastery in the region. The Bektashi of the building. Interestingly, Skopje’s Jews used the place 42m , the elegant Mustafa Pasha Mosque was the overall poor quality of the work is already beginning Order is a dervish sect that fuses elements of Shia for ritual bathing too during Ottoman times when a spe- built in 1492 and has incredibly survived every historical to show. Although there’s no denying the city centre was and Sufi thought into a unique blend of Islamic cial marble pool was installed for them. Reconstructed disaster Skopje’s managed to throw at it and as such looks fairly ugly before the project began, now it’s completely belief and philosophy, and this sprawling com- after the 1963 earthquake, the building now houses the pretty much the way it did 500 years ago. In the garden is surreal. plex, dating originally from the middle of the city’s Contemporary Art Gallery and is worth visiting for a türbe holding Mustafa Pasha’s earthly remains as well 16th century, is still active. Feel free to stroll the both the architecture and the wide range of temporary as those of one of his daughters. During the summer the Parks & Gardens grounds, visit the graves of the former baba who exhibitions that regularly take place inside.QArhiepis- garden fills with sweet-smelling roses and is a great place once gave spiritual guidance here and generally kop Angelari (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 23 22 79 86, www. to sit and relax.QSvekjarska, tel. +389 23 29 72 04. City Park (Градски Парк) enjoy the peaceful gardens and various religious nationalgallery.mk. Laid out at the end of the 19th century, this large pub- buildings scattered around the complex. Sultan Murad Mosque lic space to the north and northwest of the city is an Daut Pasha Hamam (Даут Пашин Амам) (Султан Мурад Џамија) extremely popular place during the warmer months Home to the National Art Gallery since 1948, the 15th-cen- A huge and quite simple structure with no dome but a nor- of the year. Good for walking, cycling or picnicking in, tury Daut Pasha Hamam was built by the eponymous Pasha mal pitched roof, the Sultan Murad (or Hunkar) Mosque dates the northern edge of the park runs alongside the river credible church in the St. Pantelejmon Monastery, himself, supposedly for his harem. The 13-domed building from 1463 and is the oldest surviving mosque in the city. Built which features a long path popular with the city’s jog- Makedonsko Selo (Macedonian Village) is a fascinat- was designed for separate male and female bathing with on the site of a monastery destroyed by the Ottomans, the ging community. Not just a green space, the park con- ing complex that combines the very best features of the two large domes at the front marking the original dress- mosque has been burnt down several times during its long tains sports halls and tennis courts, a small stage, bars, a traditional outdoor museum with a modern and so- ing rooms and the smaller domes covering the individual history but retains many old features. Outside are two türbe restaurants and hotels and also plays host to at least one phisticated dining and accommodation experience. bathing rooms. As well as housing a small permanent col- (mausoleums) and several gravestones.QOtokar Kershovani. outdoor nightclub during the summer. In the middle is Covering 12,000 square metres, Makedonsko Selo lection of art, the building also serves as a modest venue for Skopje Zoo, previously an embarrassment to the city and features 16 traditional houses representing various now with the help of some large international donations Macedonian architectural traditions from the 19th Jewish Macedonia is at least trying to make efforts to improve the lives of and 20th centuries in which there are three fine res- Local time Holocaust Memorial Center the beasts who have to live in it.QBoulevard 89. taurants and a hotel accommodating up to 100 guests. (Меморијален Центар на Холокаустот The complex also has a number of workshops where Macedonia is in the Central European Time (CET) zone на Евреите од Македонија) Out of town visitors can learn about traditional crafts including at GMT+1hr. When it’s 12:00 in Skopje it’s 06:00 in New Opened in March 2011, this better-than-average Skopje silversmithing, ceramics and weaving plus there are York, 11:00 in London and 19:00 in Tokyo. Central Eu- museum commemorates the 7,148 Jews from Macedonia Makedonsko Selo (Macedonian Village) lots of extra events happening here throughout the Q ropean Summer Time (CEST, GMT+2hrs) falls between who were murdered during the Holocaust through a se- Situated on atmospheric Mount in the small year. Gorno Nerezi, tel. +389 72 22 06 00, www. the last Sundays of March and October respectively. ries of exhibits that draws heavily on a number of sources, settlement of Gorno Nerezi less than 10km from the macedonianvillage.mk. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun not least the incredible collection of photographs taken city centre and directly across the road from the in- 08:00 - 20:00. 24 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 25 Sightseeing car station, where tickets costs 120 den for the return journey. At the Millenium Cross itself there’s little to keep visitors hanging around beyond the spectacular view on a good day. The café underneath is a good spot for a cup of coffee or an ice-cream, which can be consumed on the outdoor terrace in good weather. At night the is brightly lit and actually a rather beautiful sight.Qtel. +389 70 80 66 26, www. zicnica.jsp.com.mk. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

St. Pantelejmon Monastery (Манастир Св. Пантелејмон) Perched 771m above Skopje in the small settlement of Gorno Nerezi, the monastery complex of St. Pantelej- mon would be otherwise unremarkable if it wasn’t for the small church that sits on the site. Built way back in 1164, this unprepossessing, classic Byzantine building hides a series of original frescos that totally changed the course of Western art and that played an extensive role in kick-starting the Renaissance a couple of centuries later. Famous for breaking the rules of what was up until then a very strict style of religious painting, the frescos depict the usual Orthodox themes including the Lam- Cable car to the Millennium Cross (see below). entation of Christ, the Dormition of the Mother of God and others, but what sets them apart from everything that went before them is that the artists have breathed life into the figures. Before Pantelejmon, it was never al- Matka Canyon (Кањон Матка) lowed to show emotion in painting, making such pic- The stunning Matka Canyon is a good reminder of tures as the extraordinary fresco of Mary holding a dead how close the mountains always are in Macedonia. Jesus in her arms, complete with an anguished face and Situated just 15km southwest of the city, the 5,000ha tears in her eyes, utterly extraordinary.QGorno Nerezi, site features a wide range of things to see and do from tel. +389 23 08 12 55. enjoying a leisurely lunch on the terrace at the Can- yon Matka restaurant to going on a boat tour from the Guided tours neighbouring small harbour. Bursting with wildlife and famous for its caving and rock-climbing, to get the Like many vibrant Balkan cities, Skopje is very much a des- drive west out of the city and take a left onto the P402 tination for the flâneur. Wandering about without a care that passes through the Albanian village of Saraj on in the world, exploring the city’s hidden courtyards and the way. During the weekends and holidays the road venturing off the beaten track will all be rewarded with is closed some distance from the canyon and it’s quite unexpected encounters with some fabulous buildings and a long walk past the hydroelectric dam to get there. a random sampling of its friendly inhabitants. For those The area is also populated with several churches and who prefer more orderly tours, Skopje provides plenty of monasteries clinging to both sides of the canyon. At choice. Most hotels can arrange guided tours, plus there the main site itself is the small St. Andrew’s Church, are one or two free walking tours that crop up from time built in 1389 and worth the small fee to enter for the to time if you look around. Visitors with hangovers and hip ancient frescos that lie within.Qtel. +389 78 50 30 00, replacements will be delighted to learn that there’s also a www.canyonmatka.mk. daily tour on an open-top red bus (tel. +389 23 17 29 20) departing from several locations around the city. Millennium Cross (Милениумски Крст) Built to celebrate 2,000 years of and situat- Lea Bassa (Леа Баша) ed on the highest point on Mount Vodno overlooking Lea Bassa is an extremely knowledgeable and easy-going the city, the 66m Millennium Cross is rather dull to be local who can walk you around Skopje and introduce you honest, although the journey to reach it’s a lot of fun. to the city from a personal as well as a professional per- First you need to take the Millennium Cross double- spective. For those looking for adventures further afield, decker bus from the bus station to the cable car sta- Lea is also the go-to person at Hiking the Balkans, a com- tion half way up the mountain at Sredno Vodno. Buses pany that pretty much says what it does in its title. What- currently depart every 30 minutes between 08:20 and ever you need from Lea, we guarantee you an extremely 15:20 and a one-way ticket, bought from the driver, amiable and professional experience.Qtel. +389 77 85 97 costs just 35 den. At Sredno Vodno you’ll find the cable 06, www.hikingthebalkans.com. 26 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 27

Ohrid Ohrid Church of St. Bogorodica Bolnička Samuel’s Fortress.QCar Samoil 62, tel. +389 46 26 24 93. (ЦРКВА Св. Богородица Болничка) Open 10:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Bolnička is the Macedonian word for hospital and, along with another similar church in Ohrid, this often over- looked little gem once served as a place of quarantine Out of town where visitors to the town during the period of the Black Bay of Bones (Заливот на коските) Death were required to stay for 40 days before being al- If you’re planning a trip to the fabulous St. Naum Monastery lowed to mingle with the inhabitants. Inside are some and have the means to stop, this somewhat speculative fantastic 14th-century frescoes, a 19th-century iconosta- reconstruction of a prehistoric pile-dwelling settlement jut- sis and little else.QCar Samoil. Open 09:00 - 13:00. ting out over the water offers an interesting diversion for 30 minutes or so. Based on recent underwater archaeological Church of St. John at Kaneo (Канео) work on a settlement from around 1000BC, find several wo- Fusing together Byzantine and Armenian architectural ven huts that can be entered that include reconstructions of church styles and almost as famous for its location as for the living conditions of the people that once lived here. The the building itself, the date of the construction of this par- building next to the site contains a small museum with lots ticular masterpiece has been lost to history, although sur- of information and a small café. The Bay of Bones is also the viving documents suggest it’s been standing on the edge place where you can arrange scuba diving trips to the subter- of the cliff overlooking the lake since at least 1447. The ranean archaeological site and is, perhaps surprisingly, cur- unusual exterior stone carvings create a good excuse to rently the most popular attraction in Ohrid. Just to the north Typical souvenirs of the kind found everywhere in Ohrid. follow the track around the water to find the place and the is a recreation of a small Roman fort that can also be visited. frescos painted on the dome, hidden until 1964, are well QGradishte, tel. +389 46 26 24 98. Open 08:00 - 16:00. worth the neck-ache you’ll get staring at them in wonder. If you’ve ever visited Skopje during the summer and wondered designs including a few swastikas. A raise walkway has been QKaneo Plaoshnik Pateka, tel. +389 46 23 04 55. St. Naum Monastery (Манастир Св. Наум) where everybody was, the answer is Ohrid. Claiming the im- built around the site allowing visitors to get a close-up look Dating from 905AD, the beautiful monastery complex of St. pressively rare title of UNESCO World Heritage Site for both of this marvellous spectacle.Qtel. +389 46 25 40 13. Church of St. Sophia (ЦРКВА Св. Софија) Naum some 28km south of Ohrid and close to the Albanian its culture and its nature, Macedonia’s foremost leisure capital Constructed during the period when the Bulgarian Em- border boasts some of the most extraordinary frescos and offers visitors not only the chance to mess about on one of Samuel’s Fortress (Самоилова Тврдина) pire ruled over the town, many experts claim that this his- icon paintings in Macedonia. Now complete with restau- Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes, it also boasts several histori- Tsar Samuel of Bulgaria (?-1014), who moved the capital torically important church dates as far back at the end of rant, gift shops, boat tours and peacocks running wild in the cal sights that are worth the air alone. Less than 200km from of the from Skopje to Ohrid in 990, is a the 9th century. Another Orthodox building to have suf- gardens, the original monastery was founded by St. Naum the capital and right on the edge of the awesome Galičica Na- controversial figure in modern Macedonia and his fortress fered the fate of being turned into a mosque at the hands (c.830 -910), a disciple of Sts. Cyril and Methodius. Adven- tional Park, Ohrid’s diminutive dimensions make it a friendly overlooking the town is another of the town’s buildings of the Ottomans, the beautifully preserved frescos inside turous travellers visiting the monastery by car with a few destination for those who can’t be bothered to travel large shrouded in myth and mystery. Believed to have been date from between the 11th and 13th centuries. Such is hours to spare might be interested to learn that the nearby distances to experience lots of culture whilst also serving as a constructed on a much earlier fortress dating from the 4th the importance of the building that you’ll find it lurking border crossing is seldom busy and that an unscheduled potential base for adventures further afield. century BC, little remains of this once grand stronghold on the back of the 1,000 den banknote.QCar Samoil, tel. trip to Albania is highly recommended. Entering Albania is with the exception of the remaining outer wall structures, +389 46 26 74 03. a simple procedure, and the recommended lakeside town a few watch towers and four original gates. Despite the of Pogradec is less than 20 minutes away.QLjubanishta. Essential Ohrid fortress being in a relative bad condition, the small en- Church of the Holy Mother of God Church of Sts. Clement & Pantelejmon trance fee to get inside is worth the trip up the hill for both Peribleptos (Црква Пресвета Богородица (Св.Климент и Пантелеј) gaining a better understanding of the former strategic Перивлептос) restaurants A Byzantine beauty whose precise origins are shrouded in importance of Ohrid and for the related views of lake and One of the oldest churches in Ohrid, this magnificent In keeping with the Macedonian tradition of the unexpect- mystery and that’s thought to have been built on the site surrounding mountains.Qtel. +389 46 26 23 86. structure was built in 1295 and is particular interesting for ed, Ohrid’s status as a tourist resort means it should be pop- where the Glagolitic script, the forerunner to today’s Cyrillic the frescos that lie within. Among the many outstanding ulated with lots of restaurants serving poor quality food at script, was created and that some people say was designed works painted here are originals by Michael Astrapas and exorbitant prices, but this just isn’t the case. The town is full by St. Clement of Ohrid (840-916) himself. Briefly converted Other sights Eutychios, 13th-century painters from Thessaloniki who of great places to eat, of which many serve variations on the into a mosque by the Ottomans during the 15th century, As well as the places listed below, there are plenty of other signed works literally take your breath away. Known to local Ohrid trout which is an absolute must-try when visit- unlike many similar churches, the magic surrounding this worthwhile sights to see in town including the outstanding many locals as the Macedonian Sistine Chapel due to the ing. A lot of restaurants and cafés in town also serve the leg- place isn’t so much about its architectural splendour or 16th-century Ali Pasha Mosque in the Old Bazaar, the fas- amazing images on the domed ceiling, the church is also endary Ohrid cake, another artery-clogging essential to be what treats lie waiting inside but has much more to do with cinating National Workshop for Handmade Paper and not home to small collection of black and white photographs tried when in town. Here are a few of our favourite haunts. its associations with several renowned figures, making it forgetting the lake itself, one of the oldest and deepest in depicting Ohrid during the Ottoman period. Across the one of the holiest sites in the region.QKuzman Kapidan. Europe and a UNESCO-protected World Heritage Site. courtyard is the town’s recommended Icon Gallery. Dr. Falafel With no sign of a hipster anywhere in sight, this refresh- Plaošnik (Плаошник) Amphitheatre (Амфитеатар) Robevi Family House (Куќата на Робеви) ingly basic little kiosk serves falafel, hummus, bread to Along with the Amphitheatre, the remains of this early Built in around 200BC, the remains of this spectacular out- Housed inside a fine old house built in 1864 and giving wrap it in and little else beyond a refrigerator full of soft Christian basilica that’s believed to date from the 5th cen- door theatre laid buried and forgotten for over a thousand the place its name, this lovely museum on three floors drinks. There’s a handful of tables inside and out, although tury is pretty much all that’s left of the ancient Greek city years. Discovered completely by accident in the 1980s, features many wonderful examples of ancient statues and the best way to enjoy the food here is to take it away and of Lychnidos on which Ohrid was built. Until recently little these days the former location of gladiator battles and other stone monuments collected during archaeological devour it on the hoof whilst strolling around the Old Ba- more than a series of broken walls, excavation work has re- murdering Christians is now used for less violent affairs expeditions in the region, a carved torso of the Goddess zaar. A welcome addition to Ohrid’s underwhelming di- vealed a floor surface made of exquisite mosaics featuring and is a popular location for all manner of performances Isis dating from the 2nd century BC and an ancient gold versity of eating establishments indeed.Q7mi Noemvri exotic birds and other animals as well as some geometric during the summer.QIlindenska. burial mask and glove unearthed on top of the hill close to 8, tel. +389 77 89 71 67. Open 09:30 - 22:30. P­A­W

30 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 31 Ohrid Leonardo A long established Italian favourite in the centre of town ACTIVE LEISURE churning out a good selection of pizzas using only the best ingredients, Leonardo is also the place to head to for Not everyone who visits Ohrid comes to lie in the sun. A other Italian favourites including some fine meat dishes UNESCO World Heritage Site for its natural qualities as well and their recommended tagliatelle for vegetarians. The as its culture, adrenaline junkies will simply love the count- other thing we really like about this place are the late less ways in which it’s possible to get into all manner of working hours during the weekend, when everyone else potentially dangerous situations in and around the town.. is ready for bed and you need to eat.QCar Samoil 33, tel. +389 46 26 03 59. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. P­J­A­B­W Air Fly Ohrid Aleksandrija A local organisation of professionals who’ll whisk up A proper pizza takes around 90 seconds to cook, and a mountain and take you for a tandem paragliding ours came in seven minutes, which isn’t bad consider- adventure complete with absolutely stunning views. ing we weren’t the only ones eating here at the time. Al- Qtel. +389 75 50 84 93, www.flyohrid.com. though there’s lots to eat here, Aleksandrija quite rightly and quite sensibly promotes itself as a pizza restaurant, because that’s without a shadow of a doubt what they Land do best. The lake-view location right in the centre of the Galičica National Park action is pretty hard to beat too.QKosta Abras bb, tel. Covering an area of over 200 square kilometres and locat- +389 76 21 07 27. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - ed on the mountain of the same name, this beautiful re- 01:00. P­A­B gion is perfect for a whole range of land-based activities including hiking, mountain biking and rock-climbing. Cosa Nostra For more information, ask at your hotel or take a look at Found in a lovely setting and complete with a fine old the excellent www.hikingthebalkans.com.QVelestovski terrace, Cosa Nostra wins bonus points before we’ve Take to the sky with Fly Ohrid (see right). pat, tel. +389 46 26 14 73, www.galicica.org.mk. even mentioned the great food and the even better prices. Fancy without being too fancy, they knock out Sveta Sofija of fine Macedonian and international dishes served either some impressively creative pizzas here alongside a Water range of other dishes including their highly praised la- A good place to try both the local trout and cake, as the name inside their antique-looking restaurant or on their mas- Amfora sagne. There’s also a good selection of beers here and suggests this classy establishment overlooks the eponymous sive terrace next to the running water. The outside space A professional scuba diving company based at the Bay of some fine bottles of Macedonian wine.QKosta Abras church and comes complete with a few small outside tables features lots of things to keep the kids amused, including Bones 16km or so south of Ohrid offering everything from 50, tel. +389 46 23 02 40. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Sun for staring at it when you’re eating. Serving the purpose of a renovated wooden boat constructed in Ohrid about 80 lessons for beginners to full underwater trips to the nearby Q 10:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W both café and full-blooded restaurant, the menu is stuffed years ago. Naum Ohridski bb, tel. +389 46 26 68 16. underwater archaeological site.QGradishte, tel. +389 71 P­A­B­W with Macedonian and international dishes that although not Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. 35 98 10, www.amfora.com.mk. Open 10:00 - 18:00. exactly venturing into the realms of gourmet cuisine are cer- tainly delicious enough to keep the place open. Like many res- Čun Cafés taurants in the area, Sveta Sofija features live music most eve- A nice restaurant overlooking the lake in the centre of town Fruit Box nings.QCar Samoil 88, tel. +389 46 26 74 03. P­A­B­W including an impressive breakfast menu of bacon, eggs, The idea of cold coffee may seem like anathema to many, Bars & Clubs omelette, continental breakfast and the like plus stews, but if you find yourself in Ohrid in July or August you Belvedere shopska salad, pancakes and plenty of fish. Decorated with might just change your mind. The mocha frappaccinos If you can’t find any decent nightlife in Ohrid during the sum- Not to be confused with the hotel restaurant of the same name, hanging fishing nets and featuring a small upstairs terrace here are worth their weight in gold when all you want to mer then you might want to try pinching yourself because it’s this lovely old-fashioned place with busy waiters, delicious with terrific views, service is friendly and food comes highly do is stay in the lake until the sun goes down, plus there’s possible you fell asleep in the hotel when you were getting grilled meat dishes and occasional live folk music is located in a recommended.QKosta Abrash 4, tel. +389 46 25 56 03. lots of freshly squeezed fruit juices and a modicum of light ready to go out. The town centre is so small all you really need central location very close to the edge of the lake. The interior Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W snacks if you’re feeling peckish.QKliment Ohridski, tel. to do is follow your eyes and ears until you find something you décor speaks volumes about the owner, who has something +389 78 23 76 59. Open 09:00 - 21:00. like. In the meantime, here are a few places to get you started. verging on a fetish for the antique look, whilst outside is a small Kaj Tanya Pod-Drum terrace in the shade of three trees. Alongside the classic grilled A small, family-run restaurant that’s managed to retain an Shilla Coffee Bar Cuba Libre Beach & Bar food are a cavalcade of other dishes, all made from the fresh- old-fashioned atmosphere without the need to go over The nearest thing you’ll find to a hipster hangout in Ohrid, This infamous Ohrid night spot maintains a nightclub all year est of local ingredients.QSv Stefan bb, tel. +389 46 27 77 10. the top, it’s cheap and cheerful here and the food on offer this pleasant and extremely friendly place found up a round at Partizanska 2, whilst the summer season sees the Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W is the closest you’ll come to home cooking when in town. small flight of stairs in the heart of the Old Bazaar spe- opening of their hedonistic, lakeside club in which a small The menu features a host of Macedonian favourites plus cialises in good coffee, even better smoothies and some beach just south of the centre is converted into a place of Biljanini Izvori burgers, wraps and a few other surprises. People who pre- half-way decent cocktails. The young people who run cocktails, snacks, good-looking people and very loud music. Aka the Biljana Springs and located at the popular attrac- fer to eat with their mouths and eyes will be delighted to Shilla like to refer to themselves as homies, something Policed by serious-looking bouncers who exercise a certain tion, we came here for the legendary trout čiorba (sour discover that there’s no music pouring out the speakers in reflected in the choice of music they like to play, music amount of face control, Friday and Saturday nights feature soup) for breakfast, an unusual choice you might be think- this place, a welcome relief indeed.QCar Samoil 23, tel. that also makes an occasional live performance here.QSv DJs and live music until the very early hours of the morn- ing but it actually works, and it’s also one of the best fish +389 46 20 50 03. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - Kliment Ohridski, tel. +389 78 26 23 61. Open 08:00 - ing.QNaum Ohridski 10a, tel. +389 71 23 14 00, www. soups we’ve ever tasted. Surplus to the soup is a range 01:00. P­A­B­W 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. B cubalibreohrid.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. P­A­I­E­W 32 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 33 Ohrid Ohrid duBlin ly made-up event that the kids who hang out here would al- bend over backwards to accommodate bleary-eyed guests in Despite Dublin being the best Irish pub in Ohrid, it’s not ex- most certainly win should such a thing exist. A great place to search of coff ee in the middle of the night who are too impa- actly a memorable one, although unlike the Irish pub around meet young locals, and thankfully possessing an al fresco ter- tient to wait for breakfast, and the location is a blessing dur- the corner they do at least serve Guinness, albeit from a can. If race next to the water, fi nd it along the dark alley that leads to ing the high season when the over-populated centre thumps you’re used to Irish pubs being popular with expats and their St. Sophia.QKosta Abrash 17, tel. +389 46 25 85 52, www. and vibrates to the miscellaneous rhythms of hedonism long local colleagues, Dublin will come as a bit of a surprise as it liquid.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 01:00. P Y B W into the night. A taxi in or out of the action currently costs tends to attract a youngish and somewhat nondescript local just 200den.QSv Stefan bb, tel. +389 46 27 77 10, www. crowd most evenings. If you do fi nd yourself having a session noa hotelbelvedere.com.mk. P T H A U L K W in here, the huge plates of hot snacks are well worth forking A whopping great lounge overlooking the lake, this lively and out for.QKej Makedonija 45, tel. +389 46 20 00 40, www. at times chaotic venue features staff running around trying to hotel aura irishpubdublinohrid.mk. Open 08:00 - 01:00. P A B W keep the punters happy, who during our last visit were a pre- Just south of town and right up close to the water’s edge, dominantly young crowd having a good time and drinking this completely renovated hotel features a total of 68 duck café vast amounts of wine like it was going out of fashion. It gets rooms and a couple of suites, all complete with minibars, Run by a local music enthusiast and situated inside a gor- very loud in here during the evenings, but the terrace over- en suite bathrooms, all mod cons and extra living rooms geous old building right next to the lake, the fabulous hanging the water pretty much makes up for the mayhem. and Jacuzzis in the aforementioned suites. There’s guarded Duck Café’s neon sign proclaims Jazz & Blues which is One of several similar places along this stretch of water, if you parking. A Macedonian restaurant serving great food and slightly misleading as almost all of the live music played can’t fi nd a seat and/or waitress in here there are several other excellent wine, coff ee bar with outdoor terrace and much here is rock. The drinks are a bit pricey and the music is options a minute or two away.QKosta Abrash 38, tel. +389 more. A taxi to the centre never costs more than 200 den very much hit and miss, but if you hit it on a good night it’s 72 21 09 03, www.noaloungebar.mk. Open 09:00 - 01:00. plus there’s always the option of following the pretty path well worth it. The staff speak good English, so we recom- P J A B S W for those with the energy.QP501 Sveti Stefan, tel. +389 27 mend you drop by early to fi nd out what evening events 73 65, www.hotelbeton.mk. P A L K W are planned for the next few days.QKej Makedonija 1, tel. +389 46 25 68 18. Open 09:00 - 01:00. P A B W hotels hotel filiP Belvedere Hotel Filip is your classic waterside hotel and features a liquid A couple of kilometres out of the centre on the main road to- choice of renovated rooms, studios and apartments with We found ourselves grabbing for the defi brylator on entering wards St. Naum, this glorious hotel with large balconies over- all the necessary facilities plus restaurant, bicycle hire, Liquid, a boisterous aff air that gives the impression of being a looking the lake off ers a collection of well appointed rooms billiards and a lovely outdoor swimming pool. The nice practice space for the world smoking championships, a pure- with terrifi c views and all mod cons. The friendly staff will gentleman who owns this place also has a couple of other hotels in Ohrid and can help arrange all sorts of activities as well as rent you a car and take you on a catamaran trip. The hotel is a few kilometres south of the town centre, making taxis (about 300den) essential for those without their own transport.QSv Stefan bb, tel. +389 46 20 97 vilamina.com.mk 10, www.hotelfi lip.mk. P T H A L K C W [email protected] +389 (0)46 270 444 Park Golden view Off ering an excellent choice of rooms, suites and apartments with either a mountain or a lake view and some coming with their own spacious balconies, this superb hotel just to the south of Ohrid is located in a lovely secluded spot right on the edge of the lake and features good, business-like rooms with all the trimmings plus a galaxy of other treats including out- door swimming pool, free parking, tennis court and, for those who want to ride in and out of town and keep fi t at the same time, bicycle rental.QNaum Ohridski 10A, tel. +389 77 63 16 32, www.parkgoldenview.com.mk. P A L C W www.eurorent.mk [email protected] f: EURORENT-MACEDONIA vila mina tel:+389 (0)47 24 15 15; +389 (0)78 339 703 A popular choice with visiting groups and situated very close to the lake, the well equipped rooms and studio apartments here are lovely places to spend the night in with little extras including kettles and bigger extras including a gorgeous out- door swimming pool with great views of Lake Ohrid and the nearby mountains. Despite being a little way out of town and therefore possibly requiring the frequent use of a cheap taxi, there are plenty of good reasons to stay here, among them the regular garden barbecues that really make a stay here something special.QLagadin, tel. +389 47 27 04 44, www. vilamina.com.mk. P A L B K W

34 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 35 H O T E L RestaurantsBitola Bitola lar interest are the consulate buildings, especially the bombastic-looking Russian at the northern end, and Jewish Bitola the lovely Neo-Gothic Catholic church dating from 1909. Eagled-eyed readers will have noticed that this isn’t what the street’s actually called, it’s official name being Marsal Tito.

Other sights Representing the many historical influences that have shaped the city, Bitola is blessed with countless sights to visit and explore. Recommended are the large and busy Old Bazaar and its neighbouring covered Bezistan, the Clock Tower, whose origins remain a matter of some dis- pute but whose current appearance dates from the first half of the 19th century, several splendid mosques and the beautifully maintained French Military Cemetery hon- ouring the memory of the French soldiers who died here during the First World War. An excellent source of more The history of the predominantly Sephardic Jewish information can be found on the English website at www. community of Bitola, which numbered over 3,000 bitolatourist.info. men, woman and children before the war, stretches back centuries and ended on a single day in 1943 Cafés when the entire population was deported to the Tre- blinka extermination camp in 1943. All that remains of You know you must be near Greece when every outdoor this once diverse community are an extraordinary col- terrace in town is packed with young men with stubbly lection of portrait photographs made by the occupy- chins and mirror sunglasses sipping coffee and staring into ing Bulgarian forces in 1942 that’s now housed at the space. Café culture is one of the things Bitola is famous for, Macedonian State Archives in Skopje and the forlorn- One of the mosaics at (see right). although there’s plenty more options for those looking for looking looking Jewish Cemetery in the north-eastern something more substantial than caffeine. Writing about suburbs of the city. restaurants in Macedonia is always hard because the food Founded in the 4th century BC and one of Macedonia’s city and its rich and complicated past. Also located inside is almost always exceptionally good. Here are just a few of Jewish Cemetery (Еврејски Гробишта) oldest cities, Bitola is a delightful mishmash of architectural the museum are a couple of rooms dedicated to Atatürk, our current favourites. Bitola’s large former Jewish Cemetery occupies the styles, animated cafés and historical intrigue. Close to the complete with original documents, military costumes and side of a hill immediately north of the roundabout that border with northern Greece and a former home of none a short film.QSv Kliment Ohridski bb, tel. +389 47 23 31 Café Pajton leads to the road to Skopje. Dating back to just five years other than Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the country’s unofficial 87, www.muzejbitola.mk. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Arguably the best café in Bitola, and certainly the most after the expulsion of the Jews from Spain in 1492, ap- cultural capital sits on the eastern rim of the spectacular renowned, Café Pajton is the place to head to for perfect proximately 1,000 stone graves remain intact and the Pelister National Park and on a good day is barely two Heraclea Lyncestis (Хераклеа) coffee accompanied by a mid-afternoon apéritif if you’re cemetery is generally open, except, somewhat strangely, hours away from Skopje. Brimming with great hotels and Located along what was once the strategically important feeling in the mood and a lazy lounge on the terrace when it’s raining. Supposedly containing a museum on restaurants and blessed with enough sights to require the Via Egnatia, the extremely well preserved town of Hera- watching the world go by. Although there’s no shortage the small building that marks the cemetery entrance, we services of the former, we’ve condensed our favourite bits clea Lyncestis was founded in the 4th century BC by Philip of similar places in the neighbourhood, nobody does it saw little of note through the window, and a major plan of it into the following pages so that you too can enjoy II of Macedon. Including original Greek and later Roman quite as well as they do.QSirok Sokak 87, tel. +389 47 23 to turn the site into a memorial park seems to be moving this still relatively undiscovered Balkan gem and tell your elements, highlights include the Roman amphitheatre, 10 70. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­ at a snail’s pace.QIlindenska 1. friends you went there before it was famous. fragments of remaining hypocaust and two beautifully B­W preserved mosaics. There’s also a small museum, and the friendly gentleman running the place is full of inside Essential Bitola knowledge about the place. The site is signposted from Restaurants Even if you’re only in town for a couple of hours or so, we the city centre, but there’s no sign for major turn off point. Bela Kuka Bistro thoroughly recommend that you find the time to visit the To get there, head south on the road towards Greece, turn By all accounts one of the best places to eat in town both following three places. right onto Bukovska and it’s a little way down on the right. for the ambience and the food, this highly recommended Qtel. +389 47 23 53 29. Open 08:00 - 16:00. in-house hotel restaurant complete with a lovely terrace Bitola Museum (НУ Завод и музеј Битола) during the summer churns out a splendid selection of lo- Constructed as a military high school in 1848 when Bitola Širok Sokak (Широк Сокак) cal and international dishes to suit all tastes. Compliment- was known as Manastir and the building in which Mustafa Roughly translating as Wide Street and stretching from ed with some very decent Macedonian wines, the menu Kemal Atatürk received his military training, the fascinat- the City Park in the south as far north as the Bezistan, features a number of dishes you’ve probably never heard ing Bitola Museum is packed with fine examples repre- as well as possessing some of the city’s finest histori- of, something the waiters will be only too pleased to help senting the region’s most valuable cultural and historical cal buildings this long pedestrian thoroughfare is also with.QDimitar Ilievski-Murato 20, tel. +389 47 22 52 25, artefacts. Tracing the history of the region back to prehis- the major focus for socialising in Bitola. Lined with www.belakuka.mk. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - toric times, this is by far the best way to get to know the busy cafés and one or two modern hotels, of particu- 01:00. P­J­A­B­W

38 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 39 Bitola

mend one of the grilled meat dishes, preferably served Nightlife with one of their famous salads and washed down with plenty of wine produced in the nearby mountains or an ice-cold glass of local beer. The interior has been As is the same with most Macedonian towns and cities, decorated with lots of crisp colours and has an extremely bars and clubs in Bitola come and go with the weather, unique feel to it, although during the peak holiday season with many of the best places being summer-only ven- the restaurant’s sprawling outdoor terrace is the place ues. At the time of writing it was impossible to predict to be.QMarshal Tito 95, tel. +389 47 24 18 88, www. what might happen during this year’s season, and so restorantkorzo.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - visitors looking for fresh nightlife in the city are advised 01:00. P­J­A­B­W ask a local when they arrive. In the meantime, here’s a couple of perennial favourites to get you started. Kus Kus Owned and operated by a local and his French wife, Porta Jazz Kus Kus (as in couscous) claims to be a pizza restaurant, A great place for a coffee or a beer during the day, which is sort of true considering the mind-boggling this legendary venue in the city centre comes into amount of them on the menu, but it also serves a wide its own every evening as a lively bar that as the name variety of other dishes, among them some excellent suggests leans heavily in the direction of jazz music. meatballs and even a version of curry. Like most dining Featuring friendly staff and a mixed crowd of drink- experiences in Macedonia, a visit to Kus Kus is often ac- ers and music-lovers, during the week the music is companied with a feeling of impending weight gain that generally recorded, whereas the weekends are given can only be rectified by a long walk in the mountains. over to live performances, sometimes in the guise of a Unlike many restaurants in Bitola, this place has very lim- DJ and often with a live band.QKiril i Metodij 12, tel. ited outside seating, and booking advance during the +389 47 20 80 33. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 summer months is highly recommended.QKiril i Meto- - 01:00. P­A­W dij 2A, tel. +389 47 22 26 03, www.kuskus.mk. Open 09:00 - 01:00. P­J­A­W Rascekor A veritable Bitola institution that’s been crowding Bitola Museum. people in for longer than most people who come HOTELS here can remember, this extremely lively club is the There are some 30 hotels in Bitola in total, making find- top venue in town to head to for wild nights, beautiful ing a room for a night or two not that difficult. Covering Out of town people, smoke machines and everything the Mace- Kapri a wide range of styles and budgets, accommodation is donians love about nightlife. Events here include On the western edge of town close to the road in from Sumski Feneri in general astonishingly cheap for what you get, making everything from live music to DJs to party nights for Ohrid, the Kapri features a small selection of doubles and With something of an Alpine feel to the place, the Sumski fleapits and hostels necessary only for those travelling on students.QPartizanska 21, tel. +389 75 35 78 78, a suite, decorated in bright red colours and complete Feneri’s location at the edge of the Pelister National Park a especially tight budgets. Many of the best (and best value) www.rascekor.com. Open 00:00 - 04:00. Closed with everything visitors need for a comfortable business few kilometres west of Bitola won’t suit everyone, but if you’re restaurants are not surprisingly in the city centre, which is Mon, Wed. P­W or leisure stay. Extras here include a choice of restaurants travelling by car and like the idea of staying in a marvellous worth pointing out can get quite noisy late at night during serving good Macedonian food, conference facilities and hotel where they practically give the rooms away for free, this the weekend. secure parking.QDovledzik bb, tel. +389 47 25 65 00, may be just what you’re looking for. The individually furnished www.kapri.com.mk. P­A­L­K­W rooms come with everything for a comfortable stay from the Bela Kuka now almost compulsory free wireless internet to branded toi- Bure A choice of luxury rooms and large suites await guests at Korzo letries in the bathrooms. Other bonuses include great dining An absolute must-visit when in town, this exceptional this excellent value hotel right the centre of the city. Accom- A good selection of rooms and studios smack bang in the and some truly spectacular views.QS. Trnovo, tel. +389 47 combined restaurant and bar is perfect for coffee, snacks, modation is bright and spacious and every room comes centre of the action, this beautifully renovated hotel is a 29 31 31, www.sumskifeneri.com. ­A­L­K­W a full-blown meal or an evening on the booze. The ec- with free wireless internet, minibar and good en suite bath- great option for those looking for luxury at a fraction of centric interior features a table made from an old grand room facilities. There’s air conditioning when you need it the cost usually associated with such accommodation. piano and lots of other talking points, although if the plus the added bonus of the much talked about in-house Find a host of things in the rooms on arrival, from the usu- weather’s behaving itself the best place to enjoy Bure is bistro bar.QDimitar Ilievski-Murato 20, tel. +389 47 22 52 al to the more surprising such as kettles and sculpted tow- Hostels on the terrace complete with a view of the Russian Con- 25, www.belakuka.mk. P­­J­A­L­K­W el-animals waiting expectantly on the beds. The in-house sulate across the street. You’ll find dishes here that don’t restaurant serves great local and Italian food.QMarks i Hostel Voyage Epinal Spa & Casino exist anywhere else, all of them close to perfection and Engels 2a, tel. +389 70 33 26 78, www.hotelkorzo.com. In the northwest of the city a few minutes’ walk from Another great choice in the city centre for those who demanding you return as soon as your stomach’s ready P­J­A­K­W the main sights, facilities range from individual rooms like their facilities with lots of extras, the Epinal’s rooms for more.QMarshal Tito 88, tel. +389 47 22 55 77, www. to dormitories sleeping up to eight people, all with all have a very distinctness business feel about them and bure.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. Millenium Palace free wireless internet. Bathrooms and cooking facili- all come with everything necessary for a relaxing stay P­J­A­B­W In an unbeatable location, the rooms are all excellent, ties are shared, plus there’s a communal lounge with including free wireless internet, excellent bathrooms coming with free wireless internet, minibars and opu- television and DVD player. One of the cheapest op- and minibars. Among the many extras here are a ca- Korzo lent bedspreads for a truly stately sleep. There’s a decent tions in town, this is also a great place for backpack- sino, sauna, gym and indoor swimming pool.QMarshal Pizza and grilled meat are the big draws in this place, downstairs restaurant and a nice bar and restaurant ers to meet like-minded travellers visiting the region. Tito bb, tel. +389 47 22 47 77, www.hotelepinal.com. the Korzo pizza being something of a popular favourite too.QMarshal Tito 48, tel. +389 47 24 10 01, www. QIlindenska 240, tel. +389 78 66 53 05. i­6­L­W among its regular clients. We on the other hand recom- P­OJHA­F­L­K­D­C­W milleniumpalace.com.mk. P­­J­H­A­K­W

40 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 41 Getting Around Getting Around Car rental Skopje Airport QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 23 14 83 33, www.skp. Car rental in Macedonia is cheap and reliable. The country airports.com.mk. is blessed with relatively good roads for the region, with decent highways, reasonable signposting in both the Cyrillic and Latin alphabets and slightly cheaper petrol Airlines than in Western Europe. Macedonians drive on the right Adria Airways side of the road. Seatbelts are compulsory, using mobile QDame Gruev 7 Local 7, tel. +389 23 11 70 09, www.adria. phones whilst driving is prohibited and all vehicles must si. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. use side lights or dipped headlights when driving during Austrian Airlines the day. The blood alcohol limit is 50mg of alcohol per QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 23 14 83 72, www.austrian.com. 100ml of blood and if you do have an accident you’re le- gally obliged to the leave the vehicle where it is until the Croatia Airlines Q police (tel. +389 1 92) have arrived and recorded the inci- Skopje Airport, tel. +389 22 56 18 50, www. dent. All major car rental companies are represented in the croatiaairlines.hr. country and their websites all come with plenty of infor- Swiss mation in English about what paperwork you need to drive QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 23 11 75 44, www.swiss. in the country. There are several toll roads in Macedonia, com. Open 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. which accept cash in both euros and the local currency as Turkish Airlines well as credit cards. QBul. Kliment Ohridski 23, tel. +389 22 56 20 53, www. thy.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ABC Rentacar Wizz Air QFilip Vtori Makedonski 5, tel. +389 23 29 28 88, www. QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 59 03 02 21, www.wizzair. rentacarmacedonia.mk. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed com/mk. Sat, Sun. Avis QMito Hadzivasilev Jasmin bb, tel. +389 23 22 20 46, Bus Station www.avis.com.mk. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Skopje’s central bus station is modern, clean and relatively Go for a ride on a Chinese London bus Europcar easy to use. Facilities include good quality toilets for 10den, QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 70 20 55 46, www.europcar. ATMs, shops and cafés. Eight ticket windows staffed by a com.mk. Open 24hrs. surprisingly high proportion of English-speakers sell tick- Skopje’s compact centre makes few demands on its public Public transport Hertz ets for destinations inside Macedonia and abroad. Infor- transport system. If you need to travel a fair distance, taxis Skopje relies on a network of buses that until not long ago QSkupi 8, tel. +389 23 13 43 91, www.hertz.mk. Open mation, currency exchange and left luggage are also taken are in abundance, and, if you chose the right one, cheap. were extremely old and equally easy to use. This is no longer 08:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. care of by the ticket staff. International destinations from Getting around the country is also not too difficult. the case. The local authorities recently ‘modernised’ the city’s Sixt Skopje include Belgrade, Istanbul, Ljubljana, Peja, Pristina, public transport system to the point that it’s now almost im- QBul. 8-mi Septemvri 15, tel. +389 75 44 89 02, www. Sofia, Tirana and Zagreb. Taxis possible to use, the two biggest changes being the introduc- sixt.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed tion of 200 red double-decker buses imported from China and Sun. Bus Station We’ve travelled in literally hundreds of taxis in Skopje and the necessity to own a credit card-sized piece of plastic that QNikola Karev 20, tel. +389 22 46 63 13, www.sas.com. have never once had a problem, although taxis being seems to be the only form of payment on them. The cards can mk. taxis (or rather taxi drivers being taxi drivers) this doesn’t be bought and re-charged at the airport as well as at several Airport mean that riding in a cab in the Macedonian capital is other locations around Skopje including the one listed below. Skopje’s Alexander the Great Airport is small and easy to always a pleasure. There are plenty of stories out there use. Completely modernised in 2011, the combined Ar- Train Station about rip-offs, and for sure they do exist, especially when (Автокоманда) rivals and Departures hall provides all the necessities for Trains in Macedonia aren’t the best way to move around the it comes to the ones waiting outside the bus station and QMakedonija bb. Open 06:00 - 19:30. visitors preparing to leave country including a currency country, with long-distance buses providing faster, more (to a much lesser extent these days) at the airport. If ever exchange (you can’t change Macedonian money abroad) frequent and equally cheap services. Using trains in Mac- in doubt, negotiate a sensible price beforehand or make and café. Vardar Ekspres operates a bus to the airport ap- edonia also means you’ll have to use Skopje’s lacklustre train sure the meter is running before you set off. The starting Cycling proximately eight times a day, departing from the Holiday station, a concrete slab with almost no facilities that looks rate for all taxis in Skopje is 50 den, which is valid for the Cycling in Skopje is very much a minority pursuit for reasons Inn hotel and calling at the bus/train station the Capitol like nobody’s ever bothered to clean it. Some international first two kilometres. After that you pay an additional 20 that include the often belligerent driving habits of the locals Mall shopping centre on the way. A single fare currently services operate in and out of the city, including trains to and den per kilometre, day and night. Waiting is charged at and the chronic problem the city faces with pollution. Cycle costs 175den. Taxis are best booked in advance and if you from Belgrade, Ljubljana, Pristina, Thessaloniki and Zagreb. If 300 den per hour. lanes are few and far between, with the city currently providing choose the right one should cost no more that 900den or you’re planning on visiting Bitola when you’re in Macedonia approximately 60km along the streets and a further 21km by €15 (payable in either currency). We recently flew out of you might want to take the train, as the journey through the In Taxi the river. A plan in 2010 to introduce official places to rent bicy- the airport on a Wizzair flight and were surprised to learn Vardar Gorge and the untouched nature beyond is a beauti- Qtel. +389 21 55 51, www.intaxi.mk. cles around the city appears to have vanished without a trace, that everyone is required to check in regardless of whether ful one. Naše Taxi although the word on the street is that this initiative is currently they already have a boarding pass or not. At busy times, Qtel. +389 21 51 52, www.nasetaxi.mk. trying to be bought back to life. Several hotels in Skopje offer this inconvenience adds about 30 minutes to the time Train Station Taxi Global bicycle rental, and if you want to cycle when you’re in town, it’s it takes to arrive at the airport and get through passport Qbul. Kuzman Josifovski&Pitu bb, tel. +389 23 16 42 55, Qtel. +389 21 51 89, www.taxiglobal.mk. worth considering booking accommodation with this option. control. www.mktransport.mk/stations/trainstation/skopje. 42 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 43 Directory Directory A short but useful guide to all the things you may need but that you won’t ordinarily find in a typical tourist guide. Emergency numbers Macedonia unplugged

QPolice Tel. +389 1 92 Free wireless internet access in Macedonia is becoming Dentists QFire Tel. +389 1 93 increasingly common, with more and more bars, hotels and restaurants providing fast and reliable connections University Dental Clinical Center QAmbulance Tel. +389 1 94 at no cost. Both 3G and 4G services are also available, QSt. Mito Hadjivasilev Jasmin bb, tel. +389 23 20 20 22, although data roaming is far from cheap. If you need www.eurmdentalcenter.mk. Open 08:00 - 20:00. a data connection, it might be worth buying a prepaid Macedonian SIM card with a built-in data plan. All Foreign representations QSlavej Planina bb, tel. +389 23 10 47 10, www.skopje. three Macedonian mobile providers offer this service. emb.mfa.gov.tr/. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Find a full list on our website. USA QSamoilova 21, tel. +389 23 10 20 00, www. Western Union Bulgaria mk.usembassy.gov. Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. QZlatko Shnejder 3, tel. +389 23 22 94 44, www.mfa. QKiril i Metodij 13, tel. +389 23 21 36 76. Open 10:00 - 22:00. bg/embassies/macedonia. Open 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Hospitals & Clinics Pharmacies Germany Acibadem Sistina Hospital Q EuroFarm Lerinska 59, tel. +389 23 09 39 00, www.skopje.diplo. QSkupi 5a, tel. +389 23 09 95 00, www. QMirce Acev 2, tel. +389 23 20 96 96. Open 24hrs. A de. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. acibademsistina.mk. Zegin Greece (Liaison Office) Re-Medika General Hospital Q QAminta Treti, tel. +389 23 29 85 04, www.zegin.com. Borka Taleski 6, tel. +389 23 21 92 60, www.mfa.gr/ Q16-ta Makedonska Brigada 18, tel. +389 22 60 31 00, mk. Open 24hrs. A missionsabroad/en/fyrom-en. www.remedika.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Netherlands QAminta III 69-71, tel. +389 23 12 93 09, www. embassypages.com/missions/embassy8302/. Money transfer Mobile phones Lyca Serbia MoneyGram Q QKej 13-ti Noemvri 8, tel. +389 79 12 12, www. Pitu Guli 8, tel. +389 23 12 92 98, www.skopje.mfa. QPartizanski Odredi 62-2-14, tel. +389 23 23 64 10. lycamobile.mk. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. gov.rs. Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Telekom QKej 13-ti Noemvri 6, tel. +389 23 10 02 00, www. telekom.mk. Vip QKiril i Metodij 13 - Ramstor mall, tel. +89 77 12 34, www.vip.mk. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Post Central Post Office QOrce Nikolov 20, tel. +389 23 10 51 05, www.posta. com.mk. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Casa Real Estate QMitropolit Teodosij Golaganov 70b lokal13, tel. +389 71 25 92 52, www.casarealestate.com.mk. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Market values

Slice of burek 50 den (€0.80) Espresso 60 den (€1) Decent bottle of local wine 300 den (€5) Bottle of Skopsko beer in a pub 100 den (€1.70) Taxi ride across town 120 den (€2) Single local transport ticket 35 den (€0.50) Daily local transport ticket 150 den (€2.50)

44 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 45 Directory Directory theatre, Music & opera for, this large establishment in the city centre features hun- heaLth & Safety dreds of shelves creaking under the weight of books of all va- macedonian oPera and Ballet rieties from novels to art books to technical manuals.QDame (makedonSka oPera i Balet) Macedonia is safer than many West European countries Gruev 5, tel. +389 76 46 98 52, www.akademskakniga. The recommended place to go for a wide range of high with violent crime, including attacks against foreign- mk. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. quality performances.QBul. Goce Delcev 4, tel. +398 23 ers, being extremely rare. Do however exercise caution, 11 84 51, www.mob.mk. beware of pickpockets and bag-snatchers in crowded alkoteka areas, think twice about wandering about on your own A nice little shop that imports a wide range of spirits and national theatre (makedonSki naroden in the middle of the night (especially if you’ve been that also stocks a small supply of craft beer from abroad. teatar) drinking) and be careful who you hand your credit card QGjuro Gjakovic, tel. +389 25 21 50 57. Open 12:00 - Lavish performances with a repertoire from Shakespeare to when buying things with plastic. Thanks to the abun- 19:00, Mon 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. to local playwrights.Q11 Mart 3, tel. +389 23 23 03 04, dance of mountains and fresh springs in the country, the www.mnt.mk. tap water is absolutely fi ne to drink. aSel Belonging to a local, small-scale honey producer in nearby SkoPje drama theatre (dramSki teatar Tetovo, this super shop in the Old Bazaar is a great place to SkoPje) kino milenium both support the humble honey bee and to buy an unusual A busy theatre off ering more experimental work than Another popular cinema serving endless helpings of Hol- gift for your sweetheart back at home.QEvlija Celebija bb takes place at the National Theatre.QShekspirova 15, tel. lywood mush, this one right in the city centre.QKej 13-ti (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 70 91 62 64. Open 08:00 - 22:00. +389 76 43 43 43, www.dramskiteatar.com.mk. Noemvri, tel. +389 23 12 03 89, www.kinomilenium.mk. Bit Pazar cineMas shoppinG At the far northern end of the Old Bazaar is Skopje’s largest and oldest marketplace. Brimming with locally produced All fi lms are shown in their original languages with Macedo- Skopje’s shops provide just about everything visitors are fruit, vegetables, tobacco, herbs and plenty of Chinese nian subtitles. A good source of information in English can likely to need. The best places to seek out are the Old Ba- rubbish that falls to pieces the moment you switch or put be found on the excellent website at www.maccinema.com. zaar, where you can pick up anything from Turkish confec- it on, it’s worth a visit for the atmosphere alone.QKrste tionery to kettles, and the large shopping centres that tend Misirkov. Open 09:00 - 18:00. cinePlexx to cater to more modern and expensive tastes. Several screens showing mostly Hollywood fi lms inside BozinovSki the Skopje City Mall.QLjubljanska 4 (Skopje City Mall), akademSka kniGa With shops in Skopje and Bitola, this exclusive outlet spe- tel. +389 23 07 44 77, www.cineplexx.mk. The kind of English language bookshop most cities would kill cialises in a range of high class watches, jewellery pens and accessories from some of the world’s leading brands including Breitling, Longines, Calvin Klein, Swatch, Troika and Flik Flak.QMakedonija 29, tel. +389 76 28 82 13, www.bozinovski.com.mk. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

caPitol mall A positively gigantic shopping mall on four fl oors complete with shops to keep everyone happy, this place just east of Welcome to our the city centre also boasts bars, restaurants, bowling, lots of things for children to do and it even has apartments upstairs if you never want to leave.QJane Sandanski 71a, tel. +389 Experience the world of precise swiss watches, 22 45 56 02, www.capitolmall.mk. Open 08:00 - 23:00. modern jewelry and sophisticated accessories. chocol’art A friendly place in Debar Maalo selling hand-crafted local chocolates, pralines, truffl es, cakes and other delicious treats. EXCLUSIVE A good idea for a gift if you can manage to get it home. 20% discount QOrce Nikolov 93, tel. +389 77 71 08 09, www.chocolart. for all foreign citizens mk. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun.

deko SKOPJE BITOLA Deko is a former musician who discovered the power of gem- stones whilst living in Italy and who subsequently returned to st. Macedonia 29 Ramstore Mall City Mall st. Shirok Sokak +389(0)76 223 322 +389(0)76 223 344 +389(0)76 288 216 +389(0)76 207 000 his native Macedonia to set up this place, a shop front sup- [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] porting a small industry that turns local rubies into exquisite pieces of jewellery. An excellent source of uniquely local gifts and souvenirs.QGjuro Gjakovic, tel. +389 70 34 41 46, www.mkrubin.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

46 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 47 Directory Directory GTC Designed by the acclaimed Macedonian architect Živko Popovski (1934-2007) and supposedly resembling a boat, this Yugoslavian-era concrete masterpiece is packed with shops and cafés and is also a popular place for local busk- ers to perform. Alongside a range of clothes shops, super- markets and places selling mobile phone accessories are a couple of recommended small shops selling CDs of local music. Because it’s open plan and there are bars and res- taurants in it, opening times don’t apply, although most shops work from around 09:00 until 20:00.QKej 13-ti No- emvri, tel. +389 75 22 22 21, www.gtcskopje.com.mk.

Kultura A small shop right in the middle of the city that stocks a few novels in English.QMakedonija 33, www.kultura.com.mk. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

Libido Spice up your sex life with this erotica-packed shop in Debar Maalo close to the City Park.QNaum Naumovski Borce, tel. +389 75 45 59 53, www.libido.com.mk. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Ramstore Mall Skopje’s first proper shopping centre has since been eclipsed by several other places, but it’s still worth a visit and is the only real mall in the city centre. The upstairs food court is a good place to drop by a quick and decent meal, and it’s also home to the eponymous supermar- Delicatessen Tinex sions. Opening times vary from stall to stall, but you’re ket, the largest within walking distance of the main ac- At first glance just another supermarket, on closer inspec- guaranteed to find something open between 08:00 and tion.QKiril i Metodij 13, tel. +389 23 17 80 30, www. tion this recommended combined delicatessen and su- 23:00 every day.QMito Hadzivasilev Jasmin. Open ramstoremall.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 22:00. permarket stocks an impressive amount of hard-to-find 08:00 - 22:00. food and drink, including Angus and Kobe beef and an Rigara impressive amount of cheese.QDame Gruev 14, tel. Gievski One of several shops in the Old Bazaar selling traditional +389 22 03 31 50, www.tinex.com.mk. Open 08:00 - The Gievski brothers make and repair a range of tradition- confectionery, this little place near the Stone Bridge fo- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. al Macedonian and conventional stringed instruments. cuses on classic Turkish sweets and is hugely popular for Their small shop in the Old Bazaar, that also sells a few reasons that are only too obvious to anyone who ever ate Flower Market instruments, is a fascinating place to visit.QEvlija Celebija anything here.QTeodosij Golaganov 42/6 (Old Bazaar), Just east of the old train station, Skopje’s flower market 6 (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 70 36 56 08. Open 10:30 - 17:00, tel. +389 23 22 28 53. Open 08:00 - 23:00. offers a few kiosks selling flowers and plants for all occa- Sat 10:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Vitalia Muesli Bar A producer of quality health foods including muesli bars, natural soups, non-diary milk, non-allergy foods and organ- ic produce that’s almost impossible to find in Skopje, as well as this shop in GTC they also have one at Partizanski Odredi 64 and their recommended products can also be found in other outlets.QKej 13ti Noemvri K2/4 (GTC), www.vitalia. com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Skopje City Mall Skopje’s newest and most popular shopping centre fea- tures three floors of around 150 excellent shops including lots of major international brands selling clothing, things for the home and a considerable more. There’s also a great food court, plus the added bonus of a large multiplex cin- ema inside the same building.QLjubljanska 4, tel. +389 23 21 70 12, www.skopjecitymall.mk. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

48 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 49 Where To Stay Where To Stay and magnificent dining facilities both at the very top slightly Scandinavian feel to this place somehow gives it of the building and at ground level complete with a a cool atmosphere during the summer. Walking to the lovely summer flower terrace.QKej Dimitar Vlahov 1, centre takes less than 15 minutes.QMihail Cakov 8a, tel. +389 23 24 49 00, www.stonebridge-hotel.com. tel. +389 23 29 08 60, www.hotelcitypark.com.mk. P­J­A­L­K­C­­W P­H­AL­K­W

TCC Grand Plaza Ibis Skopje City Center On the edge of lovely Debar Maalo and close to many The classic Ibis touch is liberally sprinkled throughout of the best embassies yet still less that three kilometres this superbly located hotel just 200m from Macedo- from the city centre, this long established business fa- nia Square in the very heart of the city centre. The vourite packs in a lot of choices for potential guests. rooms are everything you’d expect them to be, plus With possibly the widest selection of rooms available there are many interesting details and extras to temp in the city, choosing here is easy plus there are all man- guests including lots of original art on the walls, bi- ner of extra incentives for parking your head on one cycle rental and an irresistible temptation in the guise of their pillows including a fitness centre, spa, meeting of a bar that’s open round the clock.QOrce Nikolov rooms, restaurant and the amazing Stojmenoff wine 55, tel. +389 23 12 37 00, www.ibis.com/Skopje. cellar.QBul. 8 mi Septemvri 2/2, tel. +389 23 08 08 P­­A­U­L­W 50, www.tccgrandplaza.com. P­A­F­L­K­D­ C­W Senigallia Built as part of the Skopje 2014 project, this unique hotel that looks like a ship really does feel like the real Upmarket thing once you’re on board. The rooms (or cabins) are City Park extremely well appointed coming with all the luxuries Simple but thoughtful interiors throughout and some one would expect for a long voyage, with some also great views of the park across the street are just two offering beautiful night-time views across the river reasons to book a room in this brilliantly located fa- through the portholes. There’s also a great restaurant vourite. Right on the edge of Debar Maalo, expect an and bar on board as well as a place to relax on the deck array of room facilities including free wireless internet when the seas aren’t stormy.QKej 13ti Noemvri 5s, tel. and complementary mineral water in the minibars, the +389 23 22 40 44, www.senigallia.mk. P­J­A­W

Skopje’s hotel sector is growing and improving all the time, toiletries in the bathroom. Quirky extras include chang- with an increasingly diverse range of places to stay at rea- ing carpets in the lifts that remind visitors what time sonable prices and with generally high levels of service. The of day it is and bathrobes for all guests, plus there days of useful and reliable rack rates and hotels holding a a spectacular restaurant, spa and several good ca- monopoly on what it costs to sleep in their beds are a dis- fés with outside seating along the edge of the river. tant memory. As such, we don’t include room prices with Q1732 4, tel. +389 25 51 51 51, www.parkhotel.mk. our reviews. P­JAUFLKDXC­W

Skopje Marriott Cream of the crop All the good things you expect from the exclusive Mar- Aleksandar Palace riott experience in an unbeatable location make this A massive five-star option some 10 minutes drive west one a definite contender for Skopje’s best hotel. The of the city centre, this impressive business hotel comes rooms and suites are magical, and there’s a wonder- with an great collection of rooms and suites plus a ful in-house spa to wash away the business blues at positively mind-boggling array of extras including a the end of a busy day. Also boasting one of the finest large conference and banquet centre, spa, sports fa- restaurants in Macedonia, the Marriott, which comes cilities and a top-notch restaurant and bar. The hotel with some beautiful views of the city, is an extremely of choice for many of the city’s more illustrious visi- welcome addition to the city indeed.QPlostad Make- tors, breakfast at the Aleksandar Palace offers a good donija 7, tel. +389 25 10 25 10, www.marriott.com. opportunity to network with the great and the good P­J­H­A­F­L­K­D­C­­W who choose to stay here.QBul. 8-mi Septemvri 15, tel. +389 23 09 23 92, www.aleksandarpalace.com.mk. Stone Bridge P­HAKD­C­W Occupying a piece of prime real estate on the Old Bazaar side of the 15th-century bridge that gives Park Hotel & Spa the hotel its name, it’s pretty much impossible to Wedged in-between the Philip II Arena and the river fault this gem. Featuring an impressive collection of and one of the newest additions to the capital’s luxury rooms, apartments and the devilishly sumptuous Sul- hotel market, the rooms here are large and bright and tan Presidential Suite, extras here include top of the come with little extras including kettles and branded range conference facilities, swimming pool, Jacuzzi

50 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 51 Where To Stay Solun Hotel & Spa fort associated with four-star hotel accommodation, the Tucked away in a quiet courtyard less than a minute away restaurant, which spreads out into the lovely secluded gar- from Macedonian Square and featuring a gleaming Ducati den during the summer, serves a great range of Balkan spe- motorcycle in the reception area, the Solun is a great choice cialities.QPerisa Sevelikj 8, tel. +389 23 17 77 11, www. for visitors seeking something a little different whilst demand- villavodno.com.mk. P­A6FLGK­W ing the best a hotel can offer at the same time. A brilliant option for tourists who like to take to their beds during the afternoon thanks to its closeness to so many sights, of the Budget many good things to say about this place we like it best for the City Boutique breakfast, which is one of the best we’ve ever had the pleasure Quirky, friendly and not like the vast majority of somewhat of eating.QNikola Vapcarov 10, tel. +389 23 23 25 12, www. impersonal hotels in its category, City Boutique is another hotelsolun.com.mk. P­­J­H­A­L­K­D­C­­W child-friendly option recommended for families visiting Skopje on a budget. Close to the bottom of Mount Vodno Tomče Sofka in a quiet residential neighbourhood, this place is basically A welcome relief from the seemingly never-ending roll a large house, with each room coming with a balcony, en call of identikit hotels in the city, the good people at suite bathroom and the now almost compulsory free Tomče Sofka put personal preference before predict- wireless internet.QDzumajska 21b, tel. +389 26 09 00 ability when designing the rooms, sometimes with the 40, www.cbh.mk. P­­A­K­W most interesting and eccentric outcomes. On the edge of City Park in a relatively quiet location, this is one of the friendliest places we’ve come across and it also has the Hostels advantage of a great in-house Macedonian restaurant. It wasn’t that long ago that staying in a hostel in Skopje QJordan Hadzikonstantinov-Dzinot 14, tel. +389 23 meant rubbing shoulders in a grotty kitchen with the kind 11 72 50, www.tomcesofka.mk. P­J­A­B­W of people you’d think twice about saving in a fire. Thank- fully things are improving, with more and more backpack- er-style places opening all the time and major inconven- Mid-range iences such as curfews being a thing of the past. Concept Hotel Central City Hostel Featuring orthopaedic mattresses throughout for a better A popular family-run hostel not too far from either the city sleep than many others in a similar price range, this lovely centre of the bus and train stations, sleeping options here place to stay just southwest of the city centre comes with include everything from a double room to mixed dormi- good value rooms featuring all mod cons including minibars tories for up to 10 people. There’s a garden with barbecue and free wireless internet plus a cavalcade of extras such as facilities, shared kitchen and bathroom facilities, bicycle bicycle rental, airport pick-up and the option of guided tours rental and the now well familiar international backpack- for those lacking the energy to do it themselves. The Scan- ing atmosphere. Note than City Hostel books up quickly, dinavian space age theme is fun too.QVasil Gjorgov 31, tel. so planning in advance is highly recommended.QTome +389 23 20 40 50, www.chc.mk. P­A­L­K­W Arsovski 6, tel. +389 70 22 61 65. P­W

Mramor Found in the quiet western suburbs close to where the Apartments Vardar drifts south out of the city and meaning Marble in Casa City Apartments Macedonian, the Mramor is another small and immensely A highly recommended company whose friendly and popular hotel run by a dedicated family representing the helpful staff can help with everything from renting a very best of Balkan hospitality. The first hotel in the city great apartment in the centre for one night to long-term with free wireless internet continues to set the pace with arrangements to selling property. Their range of apart- thoughtful extras including things to keep young guests ments in the city centre are all of the highest quality and occupied. Well away from the smog and dirt of the city, if offer an excellent and affordable alternative to staying in a you don’t mind trundling in and out of the city, this is one hotel.QMitropolit Teodosij Golaganov 70b lokal 13, tel. of the best choices in its class.QKlanoec 11, tel. +389 70 +389 71 25 92 52, www.casacityapartments.com.mk. 22 66 63, www.hotelmramor.com. P­­H­A­W Skopje Lux Apartments Villa Vodno A great choice of luxury apartments for short-term rent, The family-run Villa Vodno can be found hugging the bot- most of them in the same location immediately west of tom of the city’s most popular mountain in a quiet and ex- the city centre and all coming with the necessary facili- clusive suburb. Small, intimate and hugely popular with re- ties for an idea self-catering stay when visiting the city. turning guests, you have to mind your head in the upstairs Note that they don’t have an address and need to be rooms, although once you’re used to this minor distraction contacted by telephone.Qtel. +389 77 99 79 91, www. you’ll find nothing to worry you at all. Featuring all the com- skopjeluxapartments.com.

52 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com