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Skopje July - December 2017 Including Ohrid & Bitola

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Skopje July - December 2017 Including Ohrid & Bitola Sightseeing Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Wine Hotels Skopje July - December 2017 Including Ohrid & Bitola Bang! Our explosive fi rst issue is packed with essential information about the three cities of Skopje, Ohrid and Bitola Pop! Uncork a bottle and come with us on a journey through the lip-smacking world of Macedonian wine Issue Nº1 inyourpocket.com Contents ESSENTIAL CI T Y G U I D E S Arriving in Skopje 7 Happy landings Restaurants 8 From tavče gravče to кафе Cafés 15 Coff ee, ice-cream and handlebar moustaches Wine 16 A connoisseur’s guide Nightlife 18 The city that seldom sleeps Sightseeing 20 The essential guide One of the myriad examples of Skopje 2014 project (see p. 25). Ohrid 30 Macedonia’s fabulous unoffi cial leisure capital Bitola 36 Macedonia’s magnifi cent unoffi cial cultural capital Getting around 42 Planes, trains and… London buses Directory 44 Shopping, hospitals, culture and more Where to Stay 50 Luxury spas to budget beds Traditional gifts for sale everywhere in Ohrid (see p. 30). July – December 2017 5 Foreword Arriving in Skopje A city of immense contrasts and an almost audible clash- ing of cultures, Skopje’s rich and diverse history dates back at least six millennia. Home to the Romans, Bulgarians, Ot- tomans, Communists and other dubious colonisers over the centuries, despite a catastrophic earthquake that fl attened huge swathes of the city as recently as 1963, Skopje retains ESSENTIAL CI T Y G U I D E S much of its original charm despite the best eff orts of the Publisher Japanese architect Kenzō Tange to asphyxiate the city with Skopje in Your Pocket concrete during its reconstruction. A city in which it’s almost Bul. K.J. Pitu 15-1/3 1000 Skopje, Macedonia impossible to fi nd bad food and where you’ll discover a 12th- Tel. +389 75 450 250 century church that literally (or rather fi guratively) changed [email protected] macedonia.inyourpocket.com the course of Western art, Skopje’s now reachable from more locations than ever with the local airport handling not one Director Vladimir Stefanovski but two of Europe’s leading low cost airlines. Oh, and should [email protected] you ever fi nd yourself in the unlikely situation of getting tired Editorial of the place, we’ve also thrown in a couple of handy guides Managing Editor Sco to the spectacular leisure and culture capitals of Ohrid and Contributor Jeroen van Marle Bitola for good measure. Enjoy. Design Mateja Štruc Photography Richard Schofi eld, Stobi Winery (p.16), Arriving at Kenzō Tange’s train station Fly Ohrid (p.32) Cover Photo Vasil Chekalarov Monument (©2017 Richard COVER STORY Schofi eld) BY PLANE way streets only adds to the pandemonium. The arrival of Some 22 kilometres east of the city, Skopje Alexander the Sat Nav has drastically improved matters, and if you’re ar- Unveiled in 2013 as part of the Sales & Circulation Great Airport is small and easy to use. After disembarking riving in a rental car it’s worth checking to make sure it’s city’s Skopje 2014 project, Vasil Antoanela Petrovic, Snezana Stefanovska, Ivica Slavkovic and entering the main terminal building, follow the signs equipped with one. A couple of highways leading into Chekalarov Monument sits on until you reach passport control where you’ll be confront- the city require a small toll fee to be paid. Accordingly, it’s the roundabout opposite Skopje’s Printed by Data Pons (www.datapons.com.mk) Circulation 20,000 copies, two times per year ed with a row of booths currently off ering four options, highly recommended to be carrying some cash as foreign Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral namely All Passports, Citizens, MK Citizens and EU Citizens. currency and credit cards aren’t accepted. (see p. 22). The work of Elena and Copyright notice Once you’ve fi gured out who you are, passport checks are Darko Dukovski, the statue cel- Text and photographs copyright Skopje in Your Pocket. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any generally relaxed and friendly. The Arrivals and Departures BY TRAIN ebrates the ‘cruel but competent halls are in the same building and share a range of facili- All trains arrive at Skopje’s one and only train station, an in- general’ Vasil Chekalarov (1874- form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The ties including ATMs, currency exchange, and information teresting concrete construction designed by the Japanese 1913), an infamous revolutionary fi gure and one of the brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In desk and a few shops and cafés. Getting to town A taxi architect Kenzō Tange to replace the building destroyed by leaders of the Internal Macedonian-Adrianople Revolu- Your Pocket, Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. +370 5 212 to the city centre should cost around 900den or €15 (pay- the 1963 earthquake. Sadly in a state of serious disrepair tionary Organisation. Read more about Skopje 2014 on 29 76. able in either currency) and the journey takes less than 30 and containing almost nothing in the way of facilities, if minutes. To the right of the exit, the Vardar Ekspres bus you need money, drink, food or cigarettes you’ll need to leaves approximately eight times a day. The fare is currently use the services at the adjoining bus station. The connect- 175den and the bus stops at Capitol Mall, the bus/train sta- ing door between the two is often locked, in which case it’s tion and the Holiday Inn hotel right in the centre of the city. necessary to leave via the main exit and snake left around From small acorns... the building. Getting to town See Arriving by bus (above). BY BUS In 1992 a small team published the fi rst All international and long-distance buses arrive at Skopje’s WHEN TO GO In Your Pocket guide to Vilnius in Lithuania. reasonably central bus station just east of the centre on ONLINE the southern side of the river. Inside, fi nd ATMs, a couple 25 years on In Your Pocket now covers of small shops selling sweets, drinks and cigarettes and a Macedonia, a small country by anyone’s standards, can over 100 cities throughout the world handful of windows and kiosks for buying onward tickets. claim a total of three very diff erent climates, namely Getting to town It’s possible to walk to the city centre in changed Mediterranean, mountainous and mildly in print, online and on mobile reaching about 15 minutes, or take bus N°23, which runs along Bul. continental. Average temperatures vary considerably over 10 million readers annually. Kuzman Josifovski Pitu. Taxis (and taxi drivers) can be found depending on where you are, with much of the coun- congregating outside the main entrance/exit. A ride into try receiving blissfully long and hot summers with rela- the centre shouldn’t cost more than 100den. If in doubt, tively mild and wet winters and other parts such as the negotiate a price before getting in the vehicle. mountains suff ering from long snowy winters and the briefest of chilly summers. At an altitude of 240m, Sko- BY CAR pje becomes unbearably hot during much of July and PRINT MOBILE Arriving in Skopje by car can be stressful and confusing for August, one of the many reasons why Ohrid, at 693m, fi rst timers, especially for those who’ve never experienced is so popular during the summer. If you’re not coming If you’d like to join our group of independent local the miscellaneous idiosyncrasies of Balkan-style driv- to ski or lay on a sun bed, we recommend visiting in publishers we’d love to hear from you. Drop us a line at ing. Although major signs are written in both Cyrillic and late May when the spring fl owers are in full bloom and [email protected] Latin, there are few visual hints as to what might be the the temperature is pleasantly warm. city centre, and the somewhat bewildering system of one- 6 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com July – December 2017 7 Restaurants DOJRANA Essentially a Macedonian restaurant but with some good inter- national choices on the menu, Dojrana’s location is a little bit out the way but is worth the safari required to eat there. Well known for its čiorba (sour soup), most people make the effort to visit for the grilled meat, of which we thoroughly recom- mend the lamb with plenty of fresh salad, white cheese and a decent bottle of Macedonian red wine.Q513 22, tel. +389 23 17 50 37. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. P A L B W DUKAT Another Skopje favourite that often involves being carried to the car after eating here, this fine Macedonian establishment is always busy for a good reason and is definitely worth the trek to the western suburbs to enjoy its many pleasures. Fea- turing amiable waiters who wish only to bring yet another armload of dishes to your table, if you’re on a diet (and you might have to be after reviving yourself with an espresso), try the čiorba (sour soup), which comes in hanging copper pots with lashings of fresh white bread.QMitropolit Teodosij Go- Skillets of tavče gravče in an Old Bazaar restaurant. laganov 79, tel. +389 72 30 61 98. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P A E B W Most restaurants in Skopje are excellent, affordable, and KANCELARIJA increasingly diverse.
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