Mommy and Me NEW YORK — Beauty Is in a Family Way for Fall — with a New Line for Pregnant Women and Two New Infant Collections Set to Be Born

THE LIMITED AND GAP PESSIMISTIC ABOUT REST OF YEAR/4-5 WWWDomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • August 19, 2005 • $2.00 Beauty Mommy and Me NEW YORK — Beauty is in a family way for fall — with a new line for pregnant women and two new infant collections set to be born. Mama Mio, a skin care and body care collection designed for pregnant women, will bow at Bath & Body Works in October; Baby Shea, a new baby skin care line from Caswell-Massey, is set for a September debut in specialty stores, and Lil’ Dipper, a skin care line for infants, will arrive at Los Angeles’ Kitson next month. For more, see page 7.

Pump Up the Volume: Tommy Shares Leap on Sale Frenzy By Vicki M. Young Hilfiger was seeking a buyer on the Stock Exchange. More than 5.7

Y BRYN KENNY NEW YORK — Shares of Tommy newspaper’s Web site Wednesday million shares changed hands, which Hilfiger Corp. surged 10.9 percent evening. is well ahead of the stock’s average Thursday on news the company is Investors pushed the company’s trading volume of 531,078. Shares of for sale. stock price up by $1.76 to close at Hilfiger reached a 52-week high in WWD broke the story that $17.87 Thursday on the New York See Tommy, Page 2 PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED B BY PHOTOGRAPHED 2 WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 WWD.COM U.S.-China Import Deal Faces Final Hurdle

By Evan Clark Chinese exporters, would prefer a broad agreement that replaces the uncertainty of the safe- WWDFRIDAY WASHINGTON — U.S. negotiators, after wrapping guard process with a more predictable environ- Beauty up what were described as productive talks with ment that allows for cohesive planning. the Chinese Wednesday night, face at least one With importers seeking to minimize trade re- GENERAL more round to reach a long-term comprehensive strictions and the domestic textile firms favoring Shares of Tommy Hilfiger Corp. surged 10.92 percent, or $1.76, to close at agreement on textile and apparel imports. a deal that holds imports to near safeguard 1 $17.87 on the NYSE Thursday, on news the company is for sale. The discussions are likely to resume this growth levels, a pact that might not fully satisfy month in China. any faction, but would be deemed a fair compro- U.S. negotiators wrapped up “productive talks” with the Chinese, but will “Both China and the U.S. are working toward mise, seems possible. 2 have to meet again to reach a long-term deal on textile and apparel imports. a broad solution that provides greater certainty Experts with knowledge of the talks said the Although second-quarter sales were flat, Gap Inc. notched a 39.5 percent for the textiles market,” said a spokesman with proposals brought by the U.S. and China at the 4 rise in earnings, thanks in part to a decrease in operating expenses. the U.S. Trade Representative’s office, which is negotiations in San Francisco this week had sub- Limited Brands reported a 23.6 percent drop in second-quarter earnings leading the talks. “The U.S. would like to reach a stantial differences. and said third-quarter and full-year profits could miss estimates. deal soon, but we are not interested in a bad “They still have a good amount of work to do,” 5 deal. Throughout this process, we are closely said Jonathan Gold, vice president of global sup- Mitchells, the Westport, Conn.-based upscale retailer, has made a deal to consulting with domestic manufacturers and re- ply chain policy for the Retail Industry Leaders 24 merge with Marshs, a Huntington, N.Y.-based store. tailers, as well as with Congress.” of America. China’s apparel and textile imports to the Gold said the two sides may reconvene during SUZY IS ON VACATION U.S. jumped 46.6 percent to 7.9 billion square the last week of this month after exchanging ad- Classified Advertisements...... 27 meter equivalents valued at $10.8 billion during ditional proposals beforehand. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is the first half of this year — the first six months “We don’t want to see a restrictive deal put in [email protected], using the individual’s name. since the countries of the World Trade place,” Gold said. “We want to see something that Organization dismantled the global system of is flexible, has good growth rates and will account WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. quotas that regulated trade for three decades. for actual trade, and won’t be trade restrictive.” VOLUME 190, NO. 38. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional The Bush administration countered this Gold said the existing situation is difficult for issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL surge in May with new quotas on $1.31 billion in importers and that any deal would be an im- OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., imports under the safeguard provision China provement. Textile groups were more wary of an Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill agreed to when it joined the WTO in 2001. accord that would let more Chinese imports into Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General Petitions for six additional safeguards are pend- the U.S. Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. ing, with a final decision set for Aug. 31. “It sounds like the U.S. came prepared to en- Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Domestic textile firms charge that safeguards, gage constructively, but the Chinese did not nec- Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS which cap annual growth in a given category at essarily,” said Missy Branson, senior vice presi- CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North 7.5 percent and can be renewed through 2008, dent of the National Council of Textile Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four offer a life raft in a flood of imports. Importers, Organizations. “From what I’ve heard, the ideas weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West however, say they unnecessarily hurt trade and that [the Chinese negotiators] were floating were 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- raise consumer prices. completely unreasonable and not something that 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products Textile firms and importers, as well as our industry could ever accept.” and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Tommy Shares Vault on Sale Talk ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. Continued from page one whose name, along with Jones, is revenue was $115 million com- intraday trading, climbing to frequently mentioned as a pared with $163 million for the $18.76. Its 52-week low is $8.47. potential buyer of consumer same year-ago quarter. He noted The stock was the third-highest brands. that lower volumes across all Quote of the Week price gainer on the NYSE A portfolio manager last businesses resulted primarily Thursday. The company’s market month said he believed that “Liz from reductions in the number of “I don’t want the capitalization jumped $140 mil- and Hilfiger” also had an doors and decreased orders on a lion, climbing to $1.64 billion from exploratory discussion. He comparable-door basis by the Jessica Simpson $1.5 billion on Wednesday. There observed Wednesday that target- company’s major customers. The are approximately 91.77 million ing a strategic buyer means that men’s sportswear business con- brand to be anything I shares outstanding and the stock’s “of course you go to Jones, Liz tinued to reflect favorable price-to-earnings ratio is 15.14. and VF Corp. Who else would you response to key items in knits, wouldn’t wear….I The asking price on Hilfiger is go to? You’ve got a very limited wovens and denims, and the at least $1.82 billion, but could go pool of strategic buyers who can misses’ division benefitted from have a vision for what as high as $2.16 billion, according do this kind of deal.” Because of strong customer response to to financial sources. And designer this, the portfolio manager sweaters, skirts and Ithaca polos. I want done. I don’t Tommy Hilfiger is expected to get believes Hilfiger could end up As for the company’s $250 million in cash as a buyout of with a financial buyer as its new European operations, Dyer want my name on his contract. J.P. Morgan Chase is parent, noting that the private- boasted: “Yes, it is just a terrific the investment adviser. The com- equity groups have a “significant business….Our two biggest coun- something that isn’t pany could not be reached for amount of money” that still needs tries are Germany and Spain. right.’’ comment on Thursday, and the to be invested somewhere. Business there continues to be — Jessica Simpson bank did not return calls for com- An investment banker who very, very strong. In Spain, it is ment. The six analysts covering specializes in the apparel sector perhaps the only place that we the stock did not release any said Thursday that he didn’t have a major department store reports at press time. believe Claiborne would bite, in Europe. Mostly our European Li & Fung USA is one of the noting that “past acquisitions by distribution is through 3,500 spe- companies mentioned by several Liz have been with smaller com- cialty store doors.” In Brief financial sources as a possible panies that have greater poten- The ceo added that, in buyer for Hilfiger. The company tial to grow organically.” Germany, the company has done ● MEXICO’S FASHION FIX: Fashion Week Mexico has struck a is a sourcing firm that is now Last week, Hilfiger settled a well in wholesale and in its com- partnership deal with 7th on Sixth and the Mexican Secretary of focusing more on global brand U.S. Attorney’s office probe pany-owned specialty stores. Economy with the aim of boosting the Mexico City event, now in management. The parent com- involving one of its subsidiaries “We have plans to continue to its 14th season. Fern Mallis, 7th on Sixth’s executive director pany is Hong Kong-based Li & over commission policies. The roll out specialty stores in and vice president of IMG, explained in a statement that IMG Fung Ltd., which earlier this company agreed to pay $18.1 mil- Germany in the future.” will share its expertise with the Mexican organizers and assist year projected $10 billion in rev- lion to settle the tax probe, and Dyer also said there are in reaching out to the global fashion community. In addition, the enues by 2007, compared with the U.S. Attorney agreed not to growth opportunities in Italy, two new partners will advise local designers on how to create $6.1 billion in 2004. prosecute Hilfiger or its sub- where Hilfiger bought its busi- collections that are more competitive in the global marketplace. Jones Apparel Group also is sidiary. The company last week ness back from a distributor. The spring 2006 edition of Fashion Week Mexico will be held at being discussed as a potential also posted fiscal year 2006’s “One of the things that we know Hotel Camino Real, Oct. 24-27. buyer. In 2003, Jones held first-quarter results, in which the from what we have seen compar- exploratory talks with Hilfiger firm said revenues for the period ing ourselves to Ralph Lauren, and, while those talks didn’t ended June 30 were $319 million while we are stronger in many result in a deal, Jones is believed versus $329 million a year ago. countries, Italy is one that we Correction to have had contact again with During Hilfiger’s conference are not. We’re probably about a In the page one story Thursday, the figures listed as net income of Hilfiger recently, according to call last Thursday regarding third of their business in Italy, Tommy Hilfiger Corp. for the first quarter should have been report- industry and financial sources. first-quarter earnings, David and we think that it gives us a ed as net sales. Regarding the projection of Li & Fung Ltd., it should A third company is Liz Clai- Dyer, chief executive officer and feeling that there’s a great have been listed as revenue of $10 billion, and not as net income. borne, another apparel giant president, said U.S. wholesale growth opportunity,” said Dyer.

4 WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 Gap’s Net Climbs on Flat Sales By Meredith Derby ed share, compared with $507 million, or 53 cents, last year. Revenues were also relatively flat at $7.3 billion. Here and at NEW YORK — Despite posting flat sales for the second “At Gap, as we expected, women’s second-quarter per- left: two Gap quarter, Gap Inc. reported a 39.5 percent rise in earn- formance was disappointing as summer product did not re- styles for ings and beat analysts’ consensus estimates by 2 cents, flect our fresh casual American style,” said Paul Pressler, holiday 2005. thanks partially to a dip in operating expenses. president and chief executive officer of Gap, on a subse- Nevertheless, Gap said business was challenging quent conference call with analysts. “None of us is satisfied during the quarter and reinforced its commitment to with our current performance. We know what needs to be boost performance in the second half of the year. The done for our company to be successful, and we’re commit- company reduced its full-year earnings guidance to ted to the flawless execution required to get us there.” below analysts’ estimates. Gross profit margin fell 120 basis points to 37.3 as a In the 13 weeks ended July 30, the company earned percent of sales during the quarter, while merchandise $272 million, or 30 cents a diluted share, compared with margins fell 180 basis points, the company said. $195 million, or 21 cents, a year ago. As a positive, however, operating expenses fell 5.8 per- Net sales were $3.716 billion versus $3.721 billion last cent during the quarter to $957 million, thanks in part to year. Same-store sales were down nearly across the board a decrease in interest expense. Net interest income for among the company’s four divisions, putting consolidated the quarter totaled $15 million versus interest expense of comps at negative 3 percent. By division, comps fell 4 per- $31 million last year, the company said on the call. cent in Gap’s domestic division; 3 percent at Banana Also during the quarter, Gap reversed a sublease loss Republic, and 4 percent at Old Navy. However, comps related to a San Francisco building that it now plans to rose 1 percent in the company’s international division. In the first half of the year, Gap had an 11 percent increase in net earnings to $563 million, or 61 cents a dilut- None of us is satisfied with our“ current performance. We know what needs to be done for our company to be successful. — Paul Pressler, Gap Inc.”

occupy. The one-time gain from the reserve reversal was $58 million pretax, or 4 cents a share, which is included in its second-quarter earnings. Stock buybacks helped boost the company’s earnings per share as well: 45 million shares were repurchased during the quarter. In all, the weighted average number of diluted shares at the end of the second quarter totaled 905.2 million, compared with 1 billion at the end of last year’s second quarter. The company’s board has approved an additional $500 million share repurchase program. “While we are not satisfied with our operating results, when combined with our debt reduction and share repurchase strategies, we are pleased to have delivered an increase in recorded EPS for the quarter,” said Byron Pollitt, chief financial officer of Gap, on the call. “Having said that, we are acutely aware that to generate significant value, we need to strengthen our top-line performance.” On the call, Pressler updated analysts on the company’s growth plans, saying it plans to open four Banana Republic stores in Japan next month. And its newest concept, Forth & Towne, is expected to launch Wednesday in the New York area, followed by four test stores in Chicago opening on Aug. 31. Meanwhile, citing month-to-date August sales that are below expectations, Gap cut its full-year EPS outlook to $1.30 to $1.34 from a prior estimate of $1.44 to $1.48. Analysts’ consensus is $1.41. The company reported results after the market closed. Shares of Gap finished Thursday down 1.6 percent to $20.15 in trading on the New York Stock Exchange. The shares are down almost 2 percent year-over-year. New York & Co. Posts Profit in Quarter, Reverses Loss

NEW YORK — New York & Company Inc. swung 59 cents a diluted share, compared with $4.1 mil- to a second-quarter profit from a loss a year ago, lion, or 8 cents, in the year-earlier period. Total matching analysts’ expectations thanks to a revenues were up 6 percent at $524.6 million. strong merchandise assortment and successful New York & Co., which recently purchased a store expansion. 14-store Boston-based company called Jasmine But the company forecast future earnings and Sola, operated 506 specialty apparel and accesso- sales that could come in below analysts’ consen- ry stores at the end of the quarter. sus estimates, causing its shares to drop $1.04, or Regarding its outlook, the company expects 5.2 percent to $19.07 in Thursday trading. third-quarter same-store sales to be flat, while In the three months ended July 30, the com- total revenues are seen up 6.4 to 8.5 percent in the pany had net earnings of $12.3 million, or 21 range of $257.9 million to $262.8 million, including cents a diluted share, compared with a loss of sales from Jasmine Sola. Earnings per share are $8.9 million, or 20 cents, in the same quarter expected to be in the range of 15 to 18 cents. last year. Operating income rose 67.2 percent Analysts are forecasting a profit of 25 cents on to $21.7 million from $13 million a year ago. revenues of $263 million. Total second-quarter revenues increased 4.8 In the full year, New York & Co. forecast EPS to percent to $254.6 million with same-store sales be between $1.18 to $1.26 on revenues of $1.13 bil- up 0.4 percent. lion to $1.14 billion. Analysts’ consensus is for a prof- In the six months, net earnings at New York & it of $1.25 cents in the year on sales of $1.13 billion. Co. skyrocketed 731.4 percent to $33.7 million, or — M.D. WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 5 WWD.COM Limited’s Earnings Fall, Warns on Outlook

NEW YORK — With second-quarter sales up just offset by growth in woven pants and tops,” said 3.6 percent, Limited Brands Inc. reported a 23.6 Ken Stevens, chief executive officer of Express, percent drop in the quarter’s earnings as appar- on the call. el sales softened. “The dramatic deterioration of the [apparel] The company also forecast full-year and division has continued for the second straight third-quarter earnings that could miss analysts’ quarter such that its ‘contribution’ year-to-date current estimates. The outlook pushed shares has now wiped out almost 25 percent of the prof- down $1.17, or 5 percent in Thursday trading to its of the other two divisions,” Emme Kozloff, an- $22.11. alyst at Sanford Bernstein & Co., wrote in a re- While the quarter’s results were positively im- search report released Thursday. “Express con- pacted by solid performances at Bath & Body tinues to struggle to define its customer and to Works and Victoria’s Secret, Len Schlesinger, attract those who defected last year.” chief operating officer and vice chairman of By division, second-quarter operating income Limited Brands, said in a conference call with increased at Victoria’s Secret and Bath & Body analysts that the company’s apparel divisions Works. This, however, was offset by a decline in pulled the quarter down. Express experienced a the apparel segment, and the company’s “other” significant slowdown, but the company described segment. Second-quarter consolidated gross the division as going through a transition. margins as a percent of sales fell 150 basis points “Apparel performance continued to be poor, to 34.6 percent. with negative 10 percent comps and a significant Of its lingerie concept Pink, Schlesinger decline in operating income, primarily related to said the company is pleased with the perform- Express,” Schlesinger said. Comps at Express ance and added that the company plans to test fell 12 percent in the quarter, while second-quar- “an expanded [Pink] assortment in 46 stores ter same-store sales were down 2 percent at A recent ad this fall beginning in late October.” Limited stores. for Limited, Schlesinger said Limited Brands “will consid- “Our third-quarter earnings are projected to which saw er a test of freestanding Pink stores next year decline, driven by an increase in SG&A as we in- profits drop after evaluating the results of the expanded vest in operational capabilities to support 23.6 percent assortment offering.” growth, and by a decline in apparel profitability. last quarter. Within Victoria’s Secret, the company plans While we believe we have taken the right steps to have 26 Intimissimi lingerie boutiques by the end of this year, and 160 by the end of 2006. A freestanding Intimissimi store will open this October at Easton Town Center lo- Apparel performance continued to be cated in Limited Brand’s hometown of Columbus, Ohio. “ In addition, six new Bigelow stores will open within the next two months in poor…primarily related to Express. Boston, Chicago and New York. And the company said it is identifying locations for ” additional Henri Bendel stores for construction in 2006. — Len Schlesinger, Limited Brands Inc. Regarding August same-store sales, the company expects them to be “slightly nega- to return Express to profitability, the brand will continue to be in transition for some tive,” driven by softness at Express. time,” Schlesinger explained. Stevens said the current troubles at Express stem from “continued traffic declines In the three months ended July 30, Limited Brands earned $113.1 million, or 27 and greater-than-anticipated softness in work wear in the women’s business.” He cents a share, which compared with earnings of $148 million, or 31 cents, in the year- added, however, that the company is “aggressively working to fix our assortment is- earlier period. On an adjusted basis, net earnings in the latest quarter fell 17.7 per- sues, including canceling items that have not been well-received and increasing or- cent from the prior year’s $137.3 million, or 29 cents. Total second-quarter sales rose ders on strong performers.” to $2.29 billion from $2.21 billion while same-store sales were flat. Adjusted figures Looking to the third quarter, Limited Brands forecast a loss of 1 cent to a profit of 1 exclude nonoperating gains relating to Limited selling an interest in Galyan’s Trading cent. Analysts are expecting a profit of 6 cents. Co. as well as the repayment of a debt note it held over New York & Co. And in the full year, the company said EPS is expected to be $1.36 to $1.38; ana- Limited’s per-share results, however, beat analysts’ average profit expectation for lysts’ consensus estimate is for a profit of $1.40. 24 cents and revenue projection for $2.26 billion. Limited Brands added that its board has approved an additional $100 million Year-to-date, net earnings at Limited Brands fell 44.3 percent to $136.2 million, or share repurchase program, following a different $100 million share repurchase pro- 33 cents, versus $244.6 million, or 49 cents, in the same period last year. Revenues in- gram that was completed on Aug. 3. A total of $200 million of shares have been repur- creased 1.8 percent to $4.3 billion. chased so far this year. “In women’s, significant declines in knit tops and casual bottoms were partially — M.D. Fewer Markdowns Boost 2Q Results By Liza Casabona ing numbers to the sale of “non-go-forward” merchandise during the spring months. “These goods generat- NEW YORK — Retailers reporting second-quarter re- ed nonrecurring clearance sales of approximately $27 sults Thursday delivered, for the most part, mixed re- million in the first half of 2004. The replacement of sults, with Stein Mart Inc. posting profits that doubled. sales from new merchandise did not occur to the de- The Jacksonville, Fla.-based retailer reported net gree we had anticipated,” he said. Baireuther also income of $11.6 million, or 26 cents a share, for the sec- said cooler weather in May had a negative impact on ond quarter ended July 30, which is up from $5.7 mil- apparel sales. lion, or 13 cents a share, for the same period last year. Specialty retailer Aéropostale Inc. also had a disap- Net sales for the quarter climbed 5.1 percent to $337.1 pointing quarter. The company reported a decline in net million from $320.6 million last year. Comp-store sales income to $7.5 million, or 13 cents a share, for the quar- in the quarter grew 3 percent over the prior year. ter ended July 30, down from $10.9 million, or 19 cents a In its quarterly report, the retailer cited decreased share, in the same period last year. Net sales for the markdowns as one element driving its positive results. quarter increased 19.5 percent to $232.8 million from “We experienced strong, regular-price selling of our $194.9 million. Comp-store sales decreased 2.2 percent fashion assortment through the spring-summer season in the quarter versus a year-ago gain of 20 percent. Some b-t-s looks from Aéropostale. The company reported a and continue to enjoy early success with our transition “We are clearly disappointed with our performance decline in net income to $7.5 million. and fall assortment due to the continual flow of fresh for the second quarter,” said Julian Geiger, chairman same period last year. merchandise into the stores,” said Michael D. Fisher, and ceo, in a statement. “While we were able to man- A company statement attributed results for the quar- president and chief executive officer, in a statement. age our expenses carefully, our sale and gross margins ter to a higher gross margin resulting from profitable For York, Pa.-based Bon-Ton Stores Inc., results were in certain key classifications were significantly below sales and promotional activity; a decrease in capital ex- not as good. The company reported a net loss of $1.4 our plan. As a result of this shortfall, our inventories at penditures due to reduced store remodeling activity; a million, or 9 cents a share, for the second quarter the end of the second quarter were higher than we ini- reduction in debt levels; and a gain on the sale of three ended July 30. In the prior year, Bon-Ton had a net loss tially anticipated.” stores that partially offset merger-related costs. of $388,000, or 2 cents per share. The second-quarter For regional discounter ShopKo Stores Inc., based Meanwhile, second-quarter net income for Stage loss in 2005 includes an after-tax charge of 4 cents a in Green Bay, Wis., the second quarter showed signifi- Stores Inc. increased 20.4 percent, to $6.5 million, or 33 share from the sale of the company’s proprietary credit cant profit gains. The company reported a 39 percent cents a share, from $5.4 million, or 27 cents a share, for card operations. Total sales for the most recent quarter increase in earnings to $11.5 million, or 38 cents per the same period last year on revenue that grew 10.5 declined 3.5 percent to $274.3 million from $284.2 mil- share, from $8.3 million, or 28 cents, for the same peri- percent to $309.4 million from $279.9 million. The im- lion a year ago. Comp-store sales decreased 3 percent. od last year. Net sales for the quarter decreased 5 per- proved results were attributed to the company’s com- James H. Baireuther, vice chairman and chief ad- cent to $737 million from $775.6 million. Same-store parable-store sales growth of 7 percent for the quarter ministrative officer of Bon-Ton, attributed the declin- sales also declined, dropping 5.6 percent from the along with sales from new stores. 6 WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 The Beauty Report Going, Going, Growth: Beauty’s Expanding Reach on eBay

By Julie Naughton Wang, Burberry, Gucci, DKNY and Obsession, according to eBay. During that time, a rare Estée Lauder slot machine compact in its original box fetched more than $500, NEW YORK — Ten years after its launch, eBay is becoming one of beauty’s hottest while a vintage Cartier 14-karat gold perfume flask brought in $760. retail outlets. For men’s fragrances, the top 10 brands were Calvin Klein, Armani, Ralph With 157 million registered users worldwide — 75 million of whom live in the Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana, Hugo Boss, Davidoff, Chanel, Liz Claiborne, Creed and U.S., the remainder spread amongst 32 other countries — the auction site is a natu- Aramis. Top buyer searches included the words cologne, Hugo Boss, Armani, Curve, ral market for nearly all segments of the beauty market, said Sam McDonagh, senior Chanel, Lacoste, Issey Miyake, Burberry and Eternity. category manager for eBay health and beauty. In color cosmetics, the top 10 categories in June were eye shadow, sets and kits, “At any given time, there are more than 300,000 beauty foundation, face powder, lipstick, lip gloss, beauty tools, products available for sale on eBay in the U.S.,” he pointed mascara, blush and cases/bags/totes. Brands cracking the out, adding that sellers run the gamut from bricks-and-mor- top 10 in user searches included MAC Cosmetics, Stila, tar retailers aiming to clear out discontinued products to Clinique, Bare Escentuals, Lancôme, Victoria’s Secret, consumers making a buck from impossible-to-find products. Mary Kay, Chanel, BeneFit and Avon. A Mary Kay lot of Wholesalers and manufacturers are also part of the mix. more than 900 products fetched $2,003.22, while a Louis “EBay works across the entire product life cycle — from Vuitton Beauty Train Case earned $1,470. new and hard-to-find to discontinued products.” The top skin care categories were antiaging products, In 2004, the last year for which full-year figures in beauty sun care, moisturizers, acne/blemish control, sets/kits, mi- and health sales were tallied, the category racked up $196 crodermabrasion, masks/peels, exfoliators/scrubs, million, a 63 percent gain over the previous year. toners/astringents and men’s skin care, and the top skin Brian Rudie, senior brand manager for Jergens, believes care buyer searches included the words Clinique, Estée that the site actually helped drive demand for one of its most Lauder, Aveda, Hauschka, Juice Beauty, Avon, L’Occitane, successful recent drugstore launches, Jergens Natural Glow, a Lancôme, Mary Kay and LaMer. body lotion/self-tanner hybrid. “The brand planned for a suc- For hair care, the top 10 categories were straightening cessful product launch and had sufficient plans to handle typi- irons, salon equipment, shampoo, gel/mousse/spray, hair loss cal consumer demand for a new lotion,” said Rudie. “What we products, conditioner, hair dryers, hair color, rollers/curlers did not count on was the tremendous amount of buzz that this and curling irons, and the top 10 buyer searches were Chi, product would have with consumers. We have not previously Redken, flat iron, Kerastase, Bumble and bumble, had products reselling on eBay for a 50 percent premium over Sebastian, hair dryer, TIGI, Clinique and Nioxin. what it is sold for in stores. Also, we have never had over Beauty is far from the only industry that has found the 38,000 people sign up on a waiting list for a new product,” he EBay’s beauty and health sales topped $196 million last year. site to be lucrative. For instance, Sears Holdings oper- said, referring to requests logged by mass retailers. ates three storefronts on eBay, selling everything from “There are always vintage Jergens items available for sale on eBay, so we are al- appliances to consumer electronics. Executives have noted that the strategy ready connected to eBay’s community,” added Rudie. “The Jergens Natural Glow eBay yields more profits than traditional industry liquidation procedures. “It's creating auction situation was interesting because that is the most attention that has been another channel within a multichannel,” David Southworth, divisional merchan- given online to a new innovation from Jergens. We believe that much of the popularity dise manager for hardlines at Sears Holdings, told WWD in June. “The idea here of the online buzz for Jergens natural glow was the merging of a trusted American icon is to take the Sears brand name, leverage it in a value-oriented product and actu- brand with breakthrough new product innovation.” ally turn this into a plus for the customer, instead of selling [the merchandise] to a However, while eBay supports the beauty industry in every way it can, “we don’t ac- third party.” tively pursue sellers,” said McDonagh. “We entertain discussions about opportunities, Indeed, consumers seem to be embracing the site for reasons past simply getting though, and many businesses are using eBay as a complementary channel of distribution.” a good deal. In the second quarter of fiscal 2005, McDonagh noted, an average of 6,700 makeup “EBay has elements that add excitement to the experience — there’s a bit of products, 4,400 perfumes and colognes and 5,100 skin care products were sold daily. gamesmanship, or psychology and the attraction to the bargain shopper of making a In June 2005, Chanel, Estée Lauder, Victoria’s Secret, Ralph Lauren, Dolce & deal,” Scott Evans, partner in Ernst & Young for Real Estate Advisory Services in Gabbana, Christian Dior, Calvin Klein, Lancôme, Escada and Clinique topped the the Southeast, told WWD in June. “Internet sales haven’t hit a plateau. There’ll be list of hot women’s fragrances on the site, with top buyer searches including Vera continued growth, although maybe not as much as a few years ago.”

case, is in upward of 500 retail doors in Australia and New Zealand, including Napoleon Out to Grow U.S. Business Australian department store David TOP NOTES Jones; 28 stand-alone Napoleon Perdis NEW YORK — Napoleon is adding new February opening, and a Manhattan lo- stores in Australia, and two stand-alone ON THE ROAD AGAIN: Dick Roderick may have territory to his realm. Napoleon Perdis cation is slated for a July launch. And stores in New Zealand. succeeded at several endeavors during his the makeup artist, that is. he has his family firmly behind him on The privately held brand includes career, but retirement is not among them. Only During a recent interview, Perdis the adventure: brother Emmanuel color cosmetics, skin care and makeup 11 months after taking his final bows as senior speaks at a breakneck pace about his Perdis is his business partner; his wife, brushes. About 450 stockkeeping units vice president of sales of the Designer widely varied interests — he is learning Soula-Marie Perdis, is the firm’s finan- of the 780-sku line are now being sold Fragrances Division of L’Oréal USA, Roderick French, he has a glass fish cial controller, and his fa- at Saks, including the retailer’s New has returned as president of Wellbox USA, a collection and he wears Napoleon ther, Yanni Perdis, is the York flagship and its doors in Los Miami-based firm, which markets what two watches reflecting his Perdis company’s warehouse Angeles and San Francisco. Color, and Roderick describes as “a therapeutic multicultural heritage manager. In fact, it was plenty of it, comprises a significant massager.” It is a fitness and physical therapy (Greek and Australian). Napoleon Perdis’ mother, portion of the line — “I am absolutely device, priced at $1,595, that is designed to The timepiece on his left Liana, who was his inspi- not a minimalist!” he said, visibly shud- tone muscles, stimulate blood flow and wrist, a Paneria Luim- ration for the line. dering at the thought. alleviate cellulite, among other objectives. inoir GMT, is set to New “My mother was my However, Perdis’ next launch is the Roderick, who turned 65 in July, said he was York and Sydney times; first muse,” he said. It canvas for that color, so to speak. enjoying retirement in Danvers, Mass., but was the Louis Vuitton watch was his mother’s Greek Based on Auto Pilot, an existing foun- intrigued by an offer from Thierry Philippe, chief on his right wrist reflects skin tones that help in- dation primer, the Auto Pilot executive officer of LPG One, the U.S. parent of Athens time. spire the line. “When I Complexion Perfecting Series will Wellbox, to introduce a new product in the But Perdis has a singu- started, few lines catered come to the U.S. in March. Perdis also market. It will be positioned in the beauty world, lar focus when it comes to to ethnic skin, at least in is eyeing the men’s cosmetics and and Roderick said he is approaching Bergdorf his beauty brand: ex- Australia,” he said. “My grooming market, although a date has Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Sephora. panding its reach global- mother had difficulty not yet been set for these launches. ly. “I want to be everywhere,” said finding makeup for her coloring.” His At the core, however, Perdis is FRENCH TWIST: L’Occitane is about to take Perdis, who aims to next expand his wife and four daughters also provide firmly committed to creating color for over Rockefeller Center. Next Monday through reach in the U.S., where he launched plenty of ongoing inspiration for the real women. Thursday, the French beauty company will this past spring in eight Saks Fifth brand, Perdis said. “You can have 10 million celebrities transform the channel gardens, esplanade and Avenue doors. By yearend, the products Perdis, who also runs an eponymous endorsing you, but if you don’t make the rink at Rockefeller Center with more than are slated to be in about 12 Saks doors, makeup school in his native Australia, customer feel special and give her that 450,000 pieces of lavender — a nod to the and sources estimate that his U.S. retail founded his line in his hometown of treatment, she isn’t going to buy,” he heritage of the L’Occitane brand. sales could top $4.5 million in the first Sydney in 1993. Originally intended as a said, adding that extremely detailed ap- There will be live demonstrations of year. Globally, it could do $32 million at professional range of products, the as- plication instructions and tips are pack- essential oil and soap-making, as well as retail in the same time frame. sortment has expanded to include retail aged with his products. “Makeup is a musicians playing live French music. A party to Perdis also is eyeing retail spaces consumers and makeup artists alike, mood. You want to feel sexy and empow- kick off the week will be held at the Rockefeller for the first two of what he hopes will said Perdis. The line, which ranges in ered, and that’s what I want to give.” Center rink on Monday night and VIPs such as be a string of U.S. freestanding stores: a price from $5 for a makeup pencil —J.N., with contributions Jean-Louis Bianco, the former mayor of West Hollywood unit is set for a sharpener to $400 for a silver cosmetics from Holly Miller Provence, are expected to be in attendance. WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 7

WWD.COM Mama Mio: On the Mommy Track Lil’ Dipper Plans NEW YORK — A trio of London-based mothers are out to 10.5 oz.; Super-Rich Body Cream, $25 for 7 oz., and prove that even during pregnancy, women can be hot mamas. Massage Oil, $18 for 3.6 oz. In October, Sian Sutherland, Tanya Kazeminy Mackay The kits are Congratulations, which includes the show- Gradual Launch and Kathy Miller — managing director, marketing direc- er cream, the body cream and the Tummy Rub, $50; BBB tor and creative director, respectively — of indie brand (an acronym for the cheeky name Boobs, Bellies and Mama Mio will launch the line in the U.S. at Bath & Body Bottoms), which includes Tummy Rub, Boob Tube and Works, Web site mamamio.com and a host of to-be-deter- Wonder Balm, $65; It’s Time!!! Hospital Kit, which in- Of Baby Products mined specialty store doors. cludes a candle, a facial spritz, a mini massage oil and The line’s star product, Tummy Rub, Tummy Rub, $65, and Mini Mama Mio, which includes NEW YORK — Lil’ Dipper, a new line of skin was conceived when a pregnant mini-bottles of Tummy Rub, Boob Tube, Wonder care products for babies and infants, is keep- Sutherland was attempting to find a Balm, Super-Rich Body Cream and Moisturizing ing things, well, “Lil’ ” for now. product that would reduce the possi- Shower Cream, $35. The company just launched with dermatol- bility of acquiring stretch marks. She “The products all were born out of is- ogist-owned SoHo spa SkinCarelab and plans worked with an aromatherapist to de- sues we had while pregnant,” said to increase its distribution “slowly and careful- velop what became the line’s first prod- Mackay. “I had weird dry patch- ly,” according to Lil’ Dipper president Adam uct — and promptly shared it with es on my belly, which led to the Agensky, a former attorney. Mackay and Miller, whom she met in development of Wonder Balm. “In deciding the best way to launch [the 1994. Among them, the women have Sian’s pregnancy was the inspi- line], the focus was not about the number of seven children — and no stretch marks, ration for Tummy Rub. Kathy doors; rather, it was the quality of our launch claims Mackay. had boob issues, which led to partner,” he said. Starting next month, Lil’ “Women who spend thousands on our Boob Tube product.” Dipper will be available in L.A.’s Kitson. their face often don’t pay attention to Sutherland also had leg And, while Agensky said the brand is current- their bellies, figuring that either cramps, which was the genesis ly in talks with additional retailers — from small they’ll get stretch marks or they for the Massage Oil. “The saf- boutiques to department stores, as well as retail- won’t,” said Mackay. “While there is flower oil and menthol in the a certain degree of genetics involved product, when added to the mas- in getting stretch marks, if you keep sage, helps increase circulation the skin on your belly well moistur- to the legs,” said Sutherland. ized, you at least reduce the chance Mama Mio’s Congratulations kit. The trio aimed to make the that you’ll get them.” line luxurious, yet accessible to a For years, Tummy Rub was only available to expectant range of mommies-to-be, said Sutherland. “As soon as the mothers who knew Sutherland, Mackay or Miller. But after product line gets too premium, you end up with a small whipping up countless batches for friends, the trio began market — and also, we didn’t want to exclude anyone,” seriously considering branching out with a more compre- she said. “There are so few things you can buy for yourself hensive collection, and the Mama Mio line was born. It while you’re pregnant. Your body changes, even your feet now consists of six freestanding products and four kits, change. This is a nice treat.” ranging in price from $18 to $35. None of the executives would give sales estimates, al- Freestanding products are Boob Tube, a firming bust though industry sources estimated that the line could ring treatment, $35 for 3.5 oz.; Tummy Rub, $30 for 4.1 oz.; up at least $1 million in retail sales in the U.S. in its first Wonder Balm, a superhydrating blend of waxes, oils and 12 months here. butters, $25 for 1 oz.; Moisturizing Shower Cream, $18 for — J.N. Several items from the Lil’ Dipper line. ers abroad — he explained that SkinCarelab Caswell-Massey’s Continuous Overhaul (which sells other small brands such as Ole Henriksen, Anthony Logistics and Epicuren) pro- NEW YORK — The 250-year-old beauty brand Caswell- sweet almond oil, aloe vera and calendula oil, while Baby vides the perfect forum to initially get the word Massey is getting an update with two new lines: Baby Shea Body Spray features a vanilla-orange fragrance and out to consumers and that he is in no rush to ex- Shea and Olive Oil and Orange Blossom. is meant to be sprayed on the baby’s skin after a bath. pand immediately. “Nothing could better evi- The brand, which regained its independence in While Coleman declined to comment on sales figures, in- dence the quality of our skin care than being January after ending an 18-month alliance with BFMA dustry sources expect the line to do up to $3 mil- launched at a dermatologist-owned spa,” he said. Holdings, has been updating and repositioning its exten- lion in first-year retail sales. Print advertising fea- Describing himself as “one of those men who sive collection of products, beginning with the relaunch turing the tag line “Advanced Skin Care for have used skin care products for a very long of the 20-year-old shaving line 1752 and the repackag- Beginners” will appear in upcoming newspapers time,” Agensky said he came up with the idea for ing of Greenbriar, another men’s line, earlier this year. and magazines, according to the company. Lil’ Dipper while living in New York’s Gramercy Both the Baby Shea and Olive Oil and Orange Blossom The Olive Oil and Orange Blossom collection neighborhood. “There are more strollers than collections are new additions and will be on counter in ranges from $4 for a Travel Soap to $33 for a people [in Gramercy],” he said. “I would watch September in all of Caswell-Massey’s various distribu- Scented Candle and features a total of 16 these new parents pull out these huge tubs of tion channels, including 12 freestanding stores, its products. The Luxurious Moisturizing Bath baby wipes to clean their babies’ fingers. They catalogue and Web site and about 2,000 wholesale Oil contains a blend of extra virgin olive oil were so big, and the wipes at the top of the tubs doors, including Ulta. and natural moisturizers, while the Bath would get dried out — to me, it was a no-brainer.” “We’re getting very aggressive in our product de- Salts are made with natural Mediterranean So he developed an idea for individually velopment and launches, advertising and market- sea salts and olive oil and orange blossom wrapped, portable baby wipes, which eventu- ing,” said Ed Coleman, president oils. Coleman is hoping the Olive Oil and ally expanded into a line of four products, in- The Olive Oil and and chief operating officer of Orange Blossom line helps attract a cluding Baby Lotion and Shampoo Wash. The Orange Blossom line. Caswell-Massey. younger, “Baby Boomer” clientele line ranges from $12 for a box of Lil’ One Wipe The Baby Shea collection to Caswell-Massey’s customer baby wipes to $15 for Diaper Cream. All of the was developed because of base. “These products are for a products feature natural ingredients, includ- the “high demand” from younger customer that is looking aloe, vitamins and extracts and are free of both retailers and cus- ing for a spa-like experience — a chemicals and dyes. tomers looking for a new, refreshing product,” he said. The Lil’ Dipper name and logo, which fea- “high-quality” version Ads for the line will include the tures a baby stroller resting on a cloud beneath a of skin care for babies, phrase “Introducing Gourmet half-moon, came as a result of Agensky’s search according to the compa- Skin Care”; industry sources ex- for “something that was cute but sophisticated,” ny. Caswell-Massey of- pect Olive Oil and Orange he said. “I came across an old pram and I had a fers a Shea collection for Blossom to do up to $3.5 million in vision of the constellation of the Little Dipper, adults, and creating a baby first-year sales at retail. and every baby is a star, at least to their parents,” version of the line provided Coleman added that the launch he said, adding that he has yet to have children an opportunity for the company of the two lines is just the begin- himself, “much to my parents’ chagrin.” to reach a new set of consumers, according to Coleman. ning of an ongoing overhaul for Caswell-Massey, namely And, as Lil’ Dipper begins to build its distri- “We wanted to take advantage of the popularity and de- giving the brand’s original packaging, which Coleman de- bution, Agensky said he is already in the mand for shea butter,” he said, “and what better way to scribed as “a little more fussy and Victorian,” a more process of developing additional offerings, in- extend that than to babies?” modern feel. “We’re taking a look at all of our existing cluding a “foaming” version of the Shampoo The line features 12 products, all made with 100 per- products, looking at products that need to be dropped as Wash, a massage oil and several other products. cent pure shea, from Baby Shea Diaper Crème to Baby well as looking at our existing packaging,” he said. “It’s While he would not comment on sales figures, Shea Body Spray, and ranges from $3.50 for a travel size time to look forward to places in the marketplace, to industry sources estimate the line could do up of the Baby Wipes to $18 for Baby Shea Cradle Lap make sure we’re positioned right.” to $300,000 in its first year on counter at retail. Lotion. Baby Shea Diaper Crème contains shea butter, — Bryn Kenny — B.K. CASWELL-MASSEY AND LIL’ DIPPER PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO DIPPER PHOTOS BY AND LIL’ CASWELL-MASSEY 8 WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 The Beauty Report Newness Dominates at Extracts Show

NEW YORK — Although its most recent run was only a few months ago, last weekend’s Extracts Show for the personal care and wellness industry was certainly not lacking in newness. For one, the location and timing of the biannual show have changed: Once housed in the cavernous Jacob K. Javits Center, Extracts now holds court in the much more intimate Penn Plaza Pavilion a few blocks away. Organizers of Extracts decided to schedule the show (which in the past has occurred in April and October) to coincide with the New York International Gift Fair in August and January. The move proved to be a fortuitous one, at least for attendees. Walking through the aisles of the pavilion’s second floor, where about 79 exhibitors and 250 lines displayed their wares Saturday through Tuesday, the entire feel of the show was invariably calmer, more low-key and refreshingly doable. “The new venue definitely added a cozy, intimate atmosphere to a category that lends itself to that type of venue,” said show manager Rita Malek. “And the co-location not only made Extracts more visible, it also helped the Gift Fair because it added an entrepreneurial personal care resources element that is not typically found at the Gift Fair.” Not to be overlooked was the plethora of innovative new brands, bolstered in part by 10 personal care companies out of Australia that exhibited as part of the Australia Trade Commission. And, while the event drew about 2,000 attendees (which is considerably lower than April’s turnout of 5,300), Malek said that she was “delighted” overall with the results. “While it was lower than the number we’d antic- The more intimate Penn Plaza Pavilion. ipated, it was still a very solid market,” she said, adding that, in the past, Extracts has been paired with the New York Home Textiles Show, so “this was a completely different show.” Below, several of the highlights. D.L. & CO. At first glance, D.L. & Co., a line of candles started by former packaging ZO1 designer Douglas Little — including everything from Victorian-style scal- Australian skin/sun care brand ZO1 brings you back to the days when lop glass candles to crystal-encrusted skull candles — seems a bit we covered our noses in thick, white zinc oxide. The line, housed in macabre, and it is. But get past the initial shock and it’s clear Little’s vi- graphic yellow-and-gray packaging, features seven products — from sion (while dark and, well, somewhat creepy) is a powerful one. The line sun protection to self-tanning — some of which are based on a clear ranges from $35 for a miniature candle to $135 for a diffuser, and the form of zinc oxide called ZincClear. Until now, zinc oxide has been hand-poured scented candles retail for up to $125 each. D.L. & Co.’s fra- available only as that thick, opaque cream, according to the compa- grances include Absinthe, Thorn Apple and Wormwood. In October, a col- ny. ZO1 products are also free of chemical absorbers, titanium diox- lection inspired by the upcoming film version of the novel “Memoirs of a ide and mineral oil, and protect against both UVA and UVB rays. Geisha” will launch, and Little noted that he will open a permanent sec- Prices range from about $25 for Tinted Lip and Cheek Balm SPF tion on Barneys’ home floor next month. The line is currently available in 30+ to about $50 for Sunless Tanning Jet Set Tan. In October, the line Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys New York, among other retailers. will make its U.S. debut at Studio at Fred Segal. HOLLYBETH DESTINATION 360 HollyBeth Anderson’s story could be described as the heart and soul Tapping into the wanderlust of men all over the nation is HollyBeth Anderson in her booth. of a show like Extracts; the Decatur, Ga.-based businesswoman and Destination 360, a line of 14 grooming products with scents based on road routes gardener created her company out of necessity after she lost her job. “I was making across the U.S. — from Destination 80 Napa Valley (jojoba, vitamin E, tea tree oil creams at home and giving them to my friends,” said Anderson. “When I got laid off, and citrus) to Destination 59 The Big Easy Facial Moisturizer (aloe, avocado, calen- they all suggested that I start selling them. I’m just hoping it will pay my mortgage.” dula and chamomile). The line ranges from $10 for Destination 75 Everglades The result of Anderson’s efforts is a line of four creams, from the $20 Eye Cream, Shaving Oil to $22 for Destination 94 Thousand Lakes Body Lotion. “The whole idea made with vitamin E and sweet almond oil, to the $25 Rose and Geranium Face of traveling for men works on a much more emotional level, it’s more tangible,” said Moisturizer. Lavender and Citrus Body Creams round out the line’s offerings, and Susan Milne, one of the founders of Destination 360. Milne added that the brand is smaller, $10 versions of both the face and body creams are available. HollyBeth is currently seeking distribution in men’s clothing stores, boutiques and spas. currently sold in small boutiques, mainly in the Georgia area. — Bryn Kenny

the company was run by its co-founders, Burt Shavitz, who retired in 1999 but still does personal appear- Burt’s Bees Broadens Retail Reach ances on behalf of the company, and Roxanne Quimby, who remains on the company’s board. By Molly Prior at Unilever, where he held several senior marketing Indursky stressed the company’s new manage- positions, including senior vice president of Unilever ment team is not looking to tamper with the equity of NEW YORK — Burt’s Bees, the small but agile North Cosmetics, which included brands such as Calvin Burt’s Bees, but does plan to substantially broaden Carolina-based natural beauty company, has stepped Klein, Vera Wang and Nautica. The Unilever division the business with an expanded retail presence and up plans to pollinate the mass market. was acquired by Coty Inc. in May. product assortment. Burt’s Bees, he explained, ap- In June, the $100 million firm gained chainwide The marketing executive peals to consumers with natural formulas, a nod to distribution in Walgreens and CVS stores, and traded corporate life for a social responsibility, efficacious products and a is currently in talks with a host of other suit- Select skin niche company because, in quirky positioning. ors to enter more mass retail outlets. care items his words, “To work entrepre- Burt’s Bees has some 120 items across nearly every The addition of CVS and Wal- from Burt’s neurially is part of my DNA.” personal care category — from oral care to baby prod- greens, which together account for Bees. While the company’s head- ucts — and is sold in an eclectic mix of retail outlets, 10,175 doors, more than doubled quarters and manufacturing such as Express car washes, Whole Foods Market and Burt’s Bees previous retail penetra- plant will remain in Durham, Ricky’s Urban Groove. tion of 10,000 stores. N.C., Burt’s Bees opened an of- Indursky explained that Burt’s Bees has the capac- Burt’s Bees’ swarm of new distribu- fice in Manhattan last week, at ity to double each product category in size and has tion activity stems from recent moves 245 Park Avenue. Indursky, who forecast year-over-year sales growth of 20 percent for within its management team. Last month, splits his time between New the company. the company wooed Mike York and North Carolina, will In the past, the firm’s marketing efforts have relied Indursky from L’Oréal lead all marketing functions heavily on the praises of loyal users and its signature and appointed him to the from the Manhattan office, and “hive” retail display. post of chief marketing is currently in the process of re- In Walgreens and CVS, the hive fixture is attached to and strategic officer. cruiting a marketing staff. the side of an endcap and holds approximately 35 items. Prior to Burt’s Bees, Indursky rounds out the ex- In July, the company launched a $6 million print Indursky most recently ecutive ranks, lead by president advertising campaign for the first time in its history in served as vice president and chief executive officer Doug 13 beauty and lifestyle books such as In Style, Allure of marketing for Garnier, Meyer, who took over the helm and Real Simple. Burt’s Bees will continue that effort which includes brands in September 2004. with a planned $10 million ad campaign for 2006. In such as Garnier Fructis, Garnier Nutrisse and Garnier The 16-year-old company was purchased in October September, Burt’s Bees will relaunch its Web site, 100% Color. During his three years at L’Oréal, he 2003 by the Manhattan-based private equity firm AEA burtsbees.com. served as vice president of marketing for Maybelline Investors, which acquired 80 percent of Burt’s Bees for Indursky noted, “All the people that never got to try New York. Prior to L’Oréal, Indursky spent eight years an estimated $175 million. Prior to that transaction, Burt’s Bees will.” EXTRACTS PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; BURT’S BEES BY JOHN AQUINO BEES BY ERICKSEN; BURT’S KYLE PHOTOS BY EXTRACTS WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 9

WWD.COM The Passing of the Baton at Del Labs NEW YORK — William McMenemy, who spent his “But the mass market cosmetics business is entire career at Del Laboratories, resigned his post not profitable and the business is going to all as president and chief executive officer Monday, Critical Mass the low-cost providers. Other than chains leaving retailers wondering what his departure like Wal-Mart, Walgreens, CVS and Target, means for the maker of major beauty names such By Faye Brookman the industry is not healthy.” He added that as Sally Hansen and N.Y.C. New York Color. McMenemy was on the right path with his ef- Del’s chief operating officer, Charles J. Hinkaty, forts to put Del in the right price range of who will assume the top spot today, asserted that value for today’s mass climate. the Del management team is enthusiastically com- Items from the Many retailers wonder if McMenemy will emerge at an- mitted to beauty. “It’s the most important part of new Elizabeth other company. Del executives said things are going full- our business,” he declared, noting that 75 percent Arden Nail speed ahead, despite the management changes. Buyers said of the company’s beauty and over-the-counter Care they expect to see more changes, perhaps some consolida- brands are leaders in their respective segments. Collection. tion of roles. Hinkaty acknowledged Del is working to The company is also working on improving deliv- make the company a leaner and more efficient operation. eries, fill rates and service to its retail accounts. McMenemy, reached by phone, said he plans to take “We won’t miss a beat,” Hinkaty said, referring time off, decompress and examine his options. He re- to retailers’ concerns. mains on the Del board. In the meantime, retailers noted McMenemy was named to the top executive slot Del has lost some ground in key areas while it was under- following the sale of the company to DLI Holding Williamilliam going the acquisition. Its Sally Hansen Healing Beauty Corp. last year. He replaced Dan K. Wassong, the McMenemy has hit upon success with key items, but not the entire architect of Del’s growth, who retired at the time line. N.Y.C. has been involved in shelf-space wars with of the sale. Wassong had groomed McMenemy to as- contenders such as Wet ‘n’ Wild and implements are fac- sume the role during McMenemy’s 40 years at the ing sharp competition from new players to the field. One company, where he ascended from the mail room major chain sliced 2 feet from Sally Hansen to make room to the top marketing role. for new lines. However, several retailers said they are McMenemy helped Del be first in the mass pleased with the pipeline of products coming out from market with numerous innovations such as Del, especially in spa products and foot care. Chrome Nail Makeup and Sally Hansen Airbrush McMenemy had been removed from new product de- Legs. His time spent developing products, howev- velopment over the last year as he had to oversee the ac- er, precluded him from getting maximum trade quisition and absorb his new responsibilities. Several exposure and it was only recently that many buyers said they had only recently met him for the first buyer-level executives met him. He was, however, time, but added that contact with him was not as crucial a fixture at the National Association of Chain as a pipeline of innovative products. In private meetings Drug Stores’ Annual Meeting, where he had solid this week, Del sales representatives pledged that the contacts with top chain management. Wassong, on company is committed to building sales and that it is well the other hand, was highly visible in the trade and was financed to support growth. known to send flowers to buyers on their birthdays. Retailers also associate Del Del has emerged as one of the few companies to break out from with Harvey Alstodt, another longtime Del executive who was elevated to president being a second-tier manufacturer to a major force in beauty. The Sally Hansen of Global Business after the sale, and is now president of Del Cosmetics. brand surpassed Revlon in nail color sales in 2003 and, recently, the company McMenemy’s replacement, Hinkaty, is known as an expert in running the over- nudged its way into the salon business with the Elizabeth Arden nail polish line. the-counter portion of Del’s business, which includes highly profitable products It is a crucial time in the industry for Del to convey a solid message to the trade. such as Orajel and Pronto Plus. He has served with Del since 1985. Hinkaty’s ap- Megabrands such as Revlon and L’Oréal are planning launches and small brands pointment has buyers pondering whether DLI has an interest in spinning off the with unique positioning are emerging. Space will be squeezed from weaker links. harder-to-manage beauty portion of the firm, especially since DLI has ties to the Del beauty brands must prove their worth on the planogram or face editing. over-the-counter portion of the business. Del’s nonbeauty businesses yield bountiful “We have tremendous hallmarks in cosmetics,” noted Alstodt, who will begin to gross margins and face less competition than beauty. assume more of a role in beauty marketing in light of his new post as president of However, there is an opposing school of thought among observers. Some execu- Del Cosmetics. “We continue to look to department stores and salons for products tives speculate that Del could divest some of its highly desirable over-the-counter that will translate to mass. And there are great opportunities internationally.” products to raise the capital to focus on beauty. The company’s international business accounts for about 20 percent of overall Despite his departure, McMenemy has firmly put his stamp on the company. “You sales. Last year, the Sally Hansen brand launched in Italy and in Russia, and this can’t find a better marketer than Bill,” said Allan Mottus, an industry consultant. year Sally Hansen nail care entered Germany.

tion base of 25 points of sale for Shaving Solutions by yearend. Grooming Lounge Sets Product Line, New Stores Grooming Lounge is hoping Shaving Solutions will reach first-year retail sales volume NEW YORK — Grooming Lounge, a three-year-old Sarshar, who has always been around hair of nearly $1 million. Washington, D.C.-based combination barbershop and services, considering his mother was a The line’s formulations have “cock- men’s spa, has created its own collection of shaving hairstylist. “That’s how these products tailed” essential oils, said Gilman, like eu- products, which it will introduce Sept. 7. were made.” calyptus, rice bran and meadow foam to Meanwhile, the $4 million firm is gear- Quirky names such as Beard soften and smooth the skin, stimulate cir- ing up to open its second and third loca- Destroyer Shave Cream, 6.8 oz. culation and promote collagen growth. tions in Tyson’s Corner, Va., in December for $18, and Happy Ending Sooth- There are extracts of peppermint and avo- and in Miami next spring. Each space will ing Aftershave, 4 oz. for $21, give cado in the shave oil and ingredients like be about 2,000 square feet. the line a lighter feel. rosemary and aloe are employed for their Grooming Lounge Shav- Beard Master Shave Oil, anti-inflammatory effects. ing Solutions, as the new 1.8 oz. for $21, and Pre-Shave Face The base of Beard Destroyer Shave Cream is an shaving line is called, in- Wash, 8.7 oz. for $18, complete the acne wash, Gilman noted, because “when you take cludes a face wash, a shave quartet. passes [with a razor] the outer layer of skin gets ex- oil, shave cream and after- The products will make posed, so there’s irritation. The cream disinfects ex- shave. The company devel- their debut at the Grooming posed skin, preventing bumps and acne.” oped the range over three Lounge as well as on the com- In addition to Shaving Solutions, Gilman and years by having Grooming pany’s Web site, which was Sarshar plan to launch skin and hair care products Lounge barbers test some 20 launched two years before the next year. Six skin care products are being tested and formulations on the faces of 2002 opening of the shop, a they are slated to be launched in January. Seven hair D.C. power players — secre- 1,500-square-foot space at 1745 care products are scheduled to be launched in late taries and speakers alike — in L Street NW. spring or early summer of next year. an effort to “provide better Sarshar projected that by Services at Grooming Lounge run the gamut from shaves for [these] clients,” said mid-October, Gilman and he individual treatments like a hot lather shave for $45 to Grooming Lounge co-founder would “hit the prestige mar- the so-called Commander in Chief, a manicure and Michael Gilman, who “grew up ket with [Shaving Solutions].” foot treatment for $74. The Capitol, a $320, four-hour in the [hair] business” because The two are eyeing specialty treatment, includes a hot stone massage, face treat- his family owned Davidson stores like Barneys New ment, hot lather shave, manicure, a foot treatment and Beauty Supply, a distributor Grooming Lounge Aftershave, Shave Cream and Face Wash. York, Neiman Marcus and a shoeshine. on the East Coast. Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as “upscale apothecaries Basics like the Neck Clean-Up, a hot lather neck “We have a live lab downstairs where we work on and one or two luxury Web sites,” said Sarshar. shave for $20, round out the offering of services. hundreds of men a month,” said co-founder Pirooz They’re planning to establish a wholesale distribu- — Matthew W. Evans GROOMING LOUNGE PHOTO BY JOHN PHOTO BY GROOMING LOUNGE AQUINO 10 WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005

The HBA Report WWD.COM Mass Hair Care Trends Nod to Salon Channel MIAMI — The mass hair care industry is taking cues from the professional market Suppliers are also finally taking note of the need for certain styling products, and next year will capitalize on several leading salon trends to beef up mass’ stag- such as flat iron sprays, which are meant to be sprayed onto hair prior to using nant sales. Taking tips from those in the know was the focus at this week’s ECRM heat-styling appliances to serve as a barrier between the hair cuticle and the tool. Hair Care conference held here at the Doral Golf Resort & Spa Sunday, Aug. 14 Introductions from HM Mane Solutions were the most notable. through Wednesday, Aug. 17. Buyers from drugstores including CVS and Happy Straightening items remained present as suppliers see that the trend from four Harry’s met with hair care suppliers including Kao Corp. and Schwartzkopf years ago still has legs in the mass category. Curlaway and HM Mane Solutions in- Henkel to tap into the latest offerings for next spring’s hair care planograms. troduced temporary versions of at-home straightening kits. Hair accessories are Several trends emerged at the show, including the key word “silk,” which will also enjoying a recovery, with items from Scunci leading the way with fashion-for- dominate more than one company’s positioning for new hair care entries in 2006, ward items ranging from brushed metallics to animal prints to embellished clips. such as those from Vogue International, DeMert Professional and M&M Products. A newcomer, Ingenuity, in fact does have a product like no other on the market: a Companies are looking to capitalize on the salon industry’s Farouk Systems’ low-profile hair clip without a coil spine and a flat back. BioSilk hair care line, a leading professional regimen that addresses smoothing, vo- While newness played a major role at the show, some older topics continued to lumizing and silkening in 15 products. Farouk’s leading stockkeeping unit, BioSilk play center stage, such as retailers’ quest to make room for new entries by taking Silk Therapy, is one that mass suppliers are taking special note of with similar out underperforming items. products that can also be used on both hair and skin for a smooth, silky finish. — Andrea Nagel

Several new styling items are also coming out, including a Charles Worthington hair care collection. Strauss used to Frizz Defier, a Flat Iron Finish spray and Perfect Blow Out head up the Bioré and Jergens brands for Kao. Scene and Heard at ECRM spray. The company is also working on broadening its distribution and recently tapped James “Mac” McMillan as exec- CELEBRITY HAIR: Pavés Professional is launching a new GENERAL FOCUS: While dominant in the ethnic arena with utive vice president of sales. McMillan, formerly of John shampoo for the first quarter of 2006 called Ultra brands such as African Pride and Crème of Nature, Colomer Frieda Professional Hair Care, joins Maria Dempsey, presi- Conditioning Shampoo. The items will join Pavés’ other nine USA is looking to expand its presence in the general market dent of HM Mane, who also is a former Frieda employee. stockkeeping units. Richard Henery, vice president of sales side of the business. In March, Colomer launched Root for Pavés Professional, expects the celebrity hairstylist brand Touch Up Stick, a temporary solution to gray roots. One HAIR GENIUS: Hair accessories are hot again. Getting in on to end 2005 with $5 million in sales and looks to double stick, which rolls up like a lipstick, retails for $4.99 at the trend is Ingenuity, a new company with a brand called that number in 2006. Flawless, Pavés’ line, is now entering Walgreens. In the same vein is a Hair Color Stain Remover, Linziclips, flat-back, no-spring hair clips. Brooks Eckerd stores, and is planning to enter sold in a 99 cent packet, a Fanci-Full Color refreshing Rinse Available in Rite Aid and CVS, the clips Linziclips from Albertsons, Osco, Sav-On, Ulta and Happy for $4.99 and Perfect Touch Home Perm for $2.77, which allow users to sit comfortably on a Ingenuity. Harry’s in the next several months. until recently held the Revlon brand name. Colomer is look- seat with a high back, like a car ing to expand on the Fanci-Full brand in the near future. seat. Usually, hair clips make TREND SPOTTING: Scunci is counting on this impossible due to their brushed metallics, tie-dye, animal prints, SILKY SMOOTH: DeMert has repackaged Silk Works, its take large profile. Linziclips are en- embellished clips and beads for 2006. The on Farouk Systems’ Biosilk serum. A shampoo and condi- tering Claire’s and Sally Beauty trends will be found on everything from head- tioner is being added to the Silk Works brand, which launch- stores in the fall. bands to elastics to barrettes, according to es in September and October, said Michele Sherbet, ac- John Lawing, vice president sales and trade count manager. LOSE NO MORE: Hair loss is still a problem marketing at Scunci. for many women. Coming to their rescue FREE BIRD: In less than one year, Freeman Beauty Labs has is LNS USA, a French company offering SILKING IT: Vogue International is launching Silking, a 15- more than doubled its sales and looks to end 2005 with dietary supplements under the Alphactif item hair care line, which uses achieving silky hair as its close to $30 million in sales, according to Larry Freeman, Nutritif brand. According to the company, clinical studies main positioning. Items in the line, which include nine the company’s chairman. Freeman said 2006 looks just as show that after three months of use 80 percent of women styling items and six shampoos and conditioners, will retail positive. He expects 2006 will bring in $60 million in sales, found that their hair seemed thicker. A one-month regimen for $5.99 and launches in January. Silking will be supported with the help of new lines such as Pure Color Fresh, a five- costs $64.99. by print ads and limited TV spots, as well as an innovative item hair care line without color-stripping sulfates targeting in-store display that helps describe the product line. those with color-treated hair. Pure Color Fresh begins ship- FREE LAUNCH: M&M Products Co. has relaunched Sofn’Free ping in September and will retail for $4.99. into a five-item ethnic styling line, which includes Anti-Itch CHEMICAL FREE: Xenna Corp. is targeting the curly hair mar- Therapy, Anti-Breakage Complex, Strength & Shine Serum ket with Curlaway, an at-home hair straightener that doesn’t STRAIGHT TALKING: HM Mane Solutions, the makers of Easy and Thermal Styling Lotion. The line retails for $4.99. use harsh chemicals to straighten locks. The kit, which holds Straight, is broadening its line of at-home straightening as many as 12 applications, can be used to get the desired items with a new temporary kit, which gets hair straight for STRAUSS MOVES: Stuart Strauss, formerly of Kao Brands, straightness of hair over time. The kit retails for $24.99. one week and in only 10 minutes. It will retail for $15. has joined PZ Cussons America as president, overseeing its — A.N.

“multilayered” marketing campaign, according to the company. The partnership featured several elements: a Virtual Judge, in which covergirl.com featured photos and interviews with the 51 contestants and the public had the opportunity to vote on favorites; Scholarship, which SNIPPETS gave viewers the chance to award one of the 15 semifinalists a $5,000 scholarship provided by Cover Girl, and Cover Girl Celebrity Judge, in which “America’s Next Top Model” winner TENNIS ANYONE? Warren-Tricomi Salon will hold court at the U.S. Open, serving as the official Naima Mora judged the live telecast on NBC Aug. 8. “Hairstylist to the Players” for the 2005 and 2006 tennis tournaments. Warren-Tricomi, in Additionally, visitors to the Cover Girl Web site had the chance to win several grand prizes, partnership with the United States Tennis Association, will outfit the player’s area of Arthur including a trip to Miss USA 2006 and an assortment of Cover Girl cosmetics. Ashe Stadium with a full-service salon. Players, coaches and their guests can opt for services such as haircuts and styling, manicures and pedicures, and even a makeup application from TRULY APPOINTMENT: Gilles Weil, the retiring president of L’Oréal’s luxury products division, Laura Mercier makeup artists. The 2005 Open is scheduled to be held Monday, Aug. 29 which includes Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, Cacharel, Lancôme and Kiehl’s Since 1851, through Sunday, Sept. 11 at the USTA National Tennis Center in Flushing, N.Y. has joined the board of Luxe Fragrances, the U.S.-based parent company of the fragrance trilogy Truly Madly Deeply. Truly, the first fragrance of the trio, is the number-one-selling PURE H20: Jonathan Product — the eponymous hair care collection of Jonathan Antin, fragrance at Takashimaya and one of the top 10 brands at Barneys New York, according to the perhaps best known for his role on the reality TV show “Blow Out” — is company, and it will now be available at Neiman Marcus, as well. focused on quality control. That said, he will expand his 15-item line with a Beauty Water Shower Purification System, an adjustable MALLY’S PILAR PINK: Makeup artist Mally Roncal has developed a lipstick — showerhead appliance that filters impurities such as chlorine and heavy inspired by her mother’s battle with breast cancer — called Pilar Pink. metals. The two-part system, due to launch in Sephora this winter for a Beginning Oct. 3, 10 percent of the proceeds from the sale of Pilar Pink will go suggested price of $95, also includes a replaceable filter cartridge, to FFANY Shoes on Sale, an annual fund-raiser designed to raise money for designed to last six months. breast cancer research that’s sponsored by QVC and the Fashion Footwear Association of New York. Roncal’s mother, Pilar Roncal, battled breast cancer for SOTHYS MAN: Sothys Paris will expand its Sothys Homme skin and more than 15 years. “I have vivid memories of seeing my mother in her personal care collection with two new items: Deodorant Soin Stick and bedroom, knowing she was incredibly sick, yet being in awe of how gorgeous she De-Stressing Eye Care. Both items are designed to appeal to men on the was,” said Roncal. “She always took great pride in her personal appearance, and go and will be available in Sothys spas and salons in October. two of her absolute favorite indulgences were makeup and shoes.” The lipstick will be available on qvc.com beginning in mid-September, but Roncal will officially COVER GIRL’S PARTNERSHIP: Cover Girl teamed with the Miss Universe launch it on Oct. 3, during QVC’s first Pink Ribbon Beauty Hour, which will feature organization to help crown the next Miss Teen USA and launch a The latest Sothys Homme items. a variety of beauty products from several brands, including Stila, Tarte and Lorac. An Advertising Section in WWD , Friday, August 19, 2005

HBA Health & Beauty America: FROM FORMULA TO FINISH

BA Health & Beauty America will take attendees “Our event has a lot of energy because people are biggest yet, with over 200 expert speakers, 41 sessions “From Formula to Finish” at its 13th annual walking the floor mulling over the new products they’ve and 9 master classes in marketing, display, packaging, Htrade show, offering the latest insight on product seen and are thinking about. All of the elements for and technical product development. The conference development and technology. bringing those ideas to fulfillment can be found right includes a special session by the Cosmetic, Toiletry and “We address the needs of the entire industry,” affirmed there. No other event really has that.” Fragrance Association (CTFA) on FDA regulatory issues, Jack Gonzalez, group show director of beauty and HBA has thrived by offering extensive educational September 28, 9 a.m. – 12 p.m. wellness events, CMP Princeton. “The tagline ‘From opportunities, Gonzalez noted. “I think the educational HBA’s educational sessions provide a welcoming and Formula to Finish’ describes what the entire event comes component of the show has grown considerably. People productive atmosphere to beauty and wellness professionals down to, focusing specifically on product development.” come to events to learn about innovation, ingredients across the industry, affirmed members and participants. Scheduled Sept. 27-29, 2005, at the Jacob K. Javits and new products and new marketing techniques.” Continued to HBA, page 4 Convention Center, New York, the event is the largest Last year’s HBA event drew over 16,000 attendees gathering in North America for the health, beauty and and 575 exhibitors to New York, acknowledged as one personal care industries, with 600 exhibitors from across of the beauty industry’s international hubs, Gonzalez the world and an extensive educational program on confirmed. “This is the crossroads of everything that’s marketing, product development and business strategies. going on in so many different areas — in fashion, and Expected exhibitors are formulators, contract fillers, certainly in the cosmetics and personal care industries.” ingredient suppliers and private label manufacturers, as HBA’s Educational Conference is one of the most well as packaging, dispensing and labeling companies. comprehensive learning forums in the industry, offering “We provide one of the most important business venues beauty professionals the inside scoop on product for the entire industry by virtue of the fact we bring development and latest trends in R&D, marketing, display, suppliers from across the world, from Asia to some of the management and other fields. best companies in Europe,” Gonzalez added. This year’s HBA Educational Conference will be the Attendees at the HBA expo.

1 • HBA ADVERTISEMENT Formula for Success: PARTICIPANTS FIND OPPORTUNITY AND AUDIENCE AT HBA

Big Ideas in Small Places: fragrance, RPG is following a similar format for Puig’s With the crowded marketplace causing retail space Antonio Banderas Spirit for Women. According to restrictions, RPG knows how “small spaces can communicate Teitelbaum, “This is clearly a prestige fragrance sold in large messages,” said Teitelbaum. mass distribution. High volume quantities afforded us • The GLYTONE PROFESSIONAL peel center for Pierre the ability to produce prestige looking displays at a Fabre, is a countertop unit for dermatologists’ offices. mass price. “This unit provides samples in an innovative dispensing “HBA is a great format to share information. While unit within the limited space of a doctors’ office,” clients look at the programs we’ve created, we develop a remarked Friedman. greater understanding of their retail needs and then apply • For Goldie, a new cosmetic brand launched exclusively that knowledge to future projects,” Teitelbaum said. at Bath & Body Works, The Royal Promotion Group The Royal Promotion Group offers innovative design originally produced a 12’ open sell tabletop display for and creative merchandising solutions to produce displays the flagship stores. When the brand rolled out to nearly and retail environments that truly stand out and build 1,500 core stores, RPG creatively packaged the brand in a sales, he explained. “We are experts at merchandising much smaller vertical space within a double-sided tower, products and communicating brand imagery.” Teitelbaum stressed. Throughout the process, RPG’s formula for effective “The display represents the creative vision of Goldie store design and merchandising in prestige, mass or while providing testers, stock and product information. specialty distribution focuses on supporting a brand’s Everything is at your finger tips and no assistance is image and ultimately selling product, Friedman stressed. Goldie tower fixture by The Royal Promotion Group for required to make the sale,” added Friedman. The need for creativity and a point-of-difference has Bath & Body Works. The Royal Promotion Group ensures the products stand never been more important, Teitelbaum asserted. “Our out in the retail environment, Teitelbaum explained. “The mantra is design, quality, manufacturing and service. As articipation in HBA allows exhibitors to promote displays, fixtures and merchandising are a direct reflection our business expands domestically and globally, The Royal new products, while exploring growth solutions of the innovative quality of the brand.” Promotion Group’s commitment to offer superior creative Pthat can maximize retail sales, participants reported. Cultivating the Retail Connections: development, innovation and quality manufacturing is For The Royal Promotion Group, a leader in the design, With constant changes in the retail environment at all stronger than ever.” development and manufacturing of displays, fixtures and levels, RPG has recognized the importance of broadening Other fast-growing companies, like Los Angeles-based retail environments, HBA is integral to the firm’s goal of its expertise and facilitating further communication Sponge Tech Inc., maker of Spongeables™ soap-infused expanding its business. between the retailers, merchandisers and manufacturers. sponges, are being showered with new opportunities As a four year veteran of the show, RPG feels HBA • The Royal Promotion Group partnered with Target at HBA. attracts successful companies and professionals in product to redesign some of the brand’s major categories and “HBA has the scope to reach an excellent cross-section development, purchasing, marketing and manufacturing. departments. RPG is acting as the liaison between Target of the health and beauty market,” observed Elaine Binder, “We feel it’s a great format to speak to the industry as a and existing clients, making recommendations for brand executive vice president and co-founder, Sponge Tech. whole,” asserted Bruce Teitelbaum, founder and president, development within the store, Teitelbaum explained. The firm has attended HBA for the past two years, and The Royal Promotion Group. • Boyd’s of Madison, the half-century old retailer, will will introduce its new Spongellé™ All-In-One Bodywash The need for superior displays rises as packaging and move its flagship to a new location on Third Avenue, Infused Sponge at the show. marketing concepts become more unique, making The featuring a new interior by The Royal Promotion Group. “HBA draws an audience from all levels of the health Royal Promotion Group’s role in HBA more essential. “It “The new store design is fresh, inviting and represents the and beauty retail world, so there is a market for all types is important to make sure innovative marketing and next generation for Boyd’s, while respecting its heritage of products,” Binder explained. “It provides an opportunity packaging does not get lost on the shelf,” suggested and loyal following,” Teitelbaum remarked. to introduce a genuinely new concept to the marketplace. Ellen Friedman, vice president, The Royal Promotion Group. • Cozy’s Cuts for Kids, a specialty hair salon and toy HBA allows suppliers to showcase not only to U.S. RPG will highlight three key mindsets at this year’s HBA store for children with two locations in Manhattan, has retailers, but international firms as well, she noted. to help meet their clients’ merchandising needs: opened a new RPG-designed store. “The store completely “Spongellé™ is a unique product, and HBA provides a represents the brand and playful image Cozy has conveyed wonderful audience, particularly for something that is in her private label haircare line,” Teitelbaum said. truly unexpected and groundbreaking.” Launch Fever: Spongellé, which comes in two sizes, uses a patented This fall, RPG will introduce two major women’s technology releasing a controlled amount of cleansing fragrance merchandising programs spanning the spectrum and hydrating body wash. The large Spongellé lasts 30 or of distribution channels. Euphoria for Women by more washes, the smaller version 10 or more washes and Calvin Klein will roll out globally in prestige distribution, is perfect for children age 3 or older, and is small enough while Antonio Banderas Spirit for Women will appear to carry in a gym bag, the firm reported. in approximately 24,000 mass retailer stores. Every Spongellé contains healthy, healing botanicals • Unilever teamed with The Royal Promotion Group for and skin-softening, moisturizing olive oil. Some also are development and production of its worldwide displays formulated with collagen and green-tea extract to tone and visuals for Euphoria. RPG utilized its global production and replenish the skin. resources in Europe, Asia and domestically to lower costs, The product will be sold at spas, boutiques, hotels, increase efficiency and guarantee brand consistency, department stores and specialty beauty retailers across stated Teitelbaum. the country. Small Spongellés will retail for $8; large for Spongellé™ All-In-One Bodywash Infused Sponge. • As a follow-up to the hugely successful men’s $17; and boxed gift sets with sponge dish for $40.

2 • HBA ADVERTISEMENT Inside Beauty: NEW FORUM PROMOTES BEAUTY, HEALTH AND WELLNESS

eauty from the inside out has taken new meaning burgeoning, multi-billion dollar market.”Exhibit hours are Products that enhance “beauty from the inside out” will for consumers, and the industry increasingly is Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2005, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Wednesday, Sept. be recognized in the First Annual Natural Beauty Awards, Banswering the call. 28, 2005, 10 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.; and Thursday, Sept. 29, Wednesday, Sept. 28, at the Inside Beauty exposition. Enhancing beauty through the integration of health and 2005, 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Conference hours are Tuesday, Sept. The Natural Beauty Awards, presented by Natural Health wellness will be the focus at Inside Beauty, a new business 27, 2005, 9:30 a.m. - 5 p.m. and Wednesday, Sept. 28, Magazine, will recognize products with natural ingredients event debuting at the 13th annual HBA Health & Beauty 2005, 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. or vitamins, minerals and other nutrients. Winners will America, the largest development beauty gathering in be selected by a panel of readers, members of the Natural North America (www.inside-beauty.com). Health Magazine Advisory Board and Natural Health “With growth projected at $9.6 billion in the U.S. alone, editors. and a 15 percent annual growth rate, the time is ripe for The Inside Beauty educational conference will offer Inside Beauty – an unprecedented industry forum focused two programs entitled “Beneficial Beauty” and “Everlasting exclusively on the integration of health, beauty and Beauty” featuring expert panels exploring futuristic themes well-being,” affirmed Laura Connolly, Inside Beauty project and trends in the fast-developing industries. manager. Benefiting from HBA’s worldwide marketing and promotion A rising desire from consumers for integrative approaches campaign, the event will draw attendees and exhibitors to beauty, health and wellness opens lucrative channels for from Europe, Asia, North America and South America. the industries serving the sectors. Major companies in the Inside Beauty offers tremendous potential for future nutraceuticals, functional foods, personal care and beauty growth and development, asserted Jack Gonzalez, noting markets have opportunity to leverage their businesses by that while other events attempted to do the same thing, working together and creating new products with natural, their focus was food. Inside Beauty is a beauty and wellness healthy sources. “Inside Beauty is a professional business industry specific event with a built-in audience at HBA. Glytone Professional Peel Center by The Royal Promotion Group. event platforming the entire beauty, health and wellness “It is a promising growth segment for the cosmetic and market,” Connolly noted. The exhibition includes the best beauty, health, wellness personal care market that The event brings together top players and innovators products and ingredients for the cosmetics, personal care we, as beauty business from the new market Sept. 27-29, 2005, at the Jacob K. and fragrance industries; including nutraceuticals, functional event organizers, will play Javits Convention Center, New York. foods and dietary supplements; natural food ingredients; an important role in the “Inside Beauty will be the industry’s most comprehensive skin care, herbs and botanicals; private label; stress development of, here in New educational and product sourcing forum, providing management and energy sectors serving specialty and York and elsewhere”. answers, solutions and strategies on how to tap into this spa markets.

Inside Beauty: NATURAL BEAUTY AWARDS he First Annual Natural Beauty Awards at Inside Beauty will celebrate the best new “beneficial beauty products” for the beauty, health, and wellness market, Tincluding categories like skin care, hair care, sun care, cosmetics, fragrances and more. Presented by Natural Health Magazine, the awards will recognize products with natural ingredients or vitamins, minerals and other nutrients, with winners selected by a panel of readers, members of the Natural Health Magazine Advisory Board and Natural Health editors. Categories include: • Best Brand Positioning • Best Cross Over from Naturals Markets to Mainstream Mass • Best Development Using Natural Ingredients & Environmentally Conscious Packaging Winners will be announced Wednesday, Sept. 28th at Inside Beauty.

HBA INDUSTRY AWARD WINNERS SELECTED ore than 600 cosmetic and personal care professionals will honor winners of the Fourth Annual HBA Industry Awards at a gala dinner, Sept. 27, 2005, at the MSheraton Hotel & Towers in New York. Winners will be honored for their contributions to the cosmetic, personal care and fragrance industries in new product development, technical advancement, marketing, and packaging design. Honorees include noted industry dignitaries like: • John Demsey, global brand president, Estee Lauder: Lifetime Achievement in Marketing; • Alan J. Meyers, senior vice president of corporate scientific R&D, L'Oreal USA Inc.: Lifetime Achievement in Product Development; • Lorraine Ahart, vice president of package development, Victoria’s Secret Beauty: Packaging Executive of the Year; • Lancome’s Resurface Peel development team: New Product R&D Technical Team. The ceremony will include the Sixth Annual International Package Design Awards and a joint presentation by HBA and Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine of The International Technology Awards for new technology and technology marketing. For information or tickets to the Awards Dinner, contact Barbara Wheat at (609) 452-2800, ext. 124 or [email protected].

3 • HBA HBA HEALTH & BEAUTY AMERICA® • SEPTEMBER 27 - 29, 2005 • NYC

WHAT'S NEW IN HBA® 2005

ead over to the industry's largest cosmetic, fra- e a part of this once-a-year trade show and edu- ttend content-rich seminar sessions covering the grance and personal care product development cational conference where the top marketers, most important issues and topics in product devel- H event -- HBA Health & Beauty America, B R&D teams, suppliers, industry experts, and A opment, marketing, packaging, and display. September 27-29, 2005, Jacob K. Javits Convention movers and shakers from all over the world gather for Center in New York. three days to discover what's new, what works, and who is hot in the beauty business. HBA Health & Beauty America is only once a year—don't miss it! INSPIRATION EXPANSION ASPIRATION • Keynote Address by Susan • Expanded exhibit floor that includes a larger • HBA Industry Awards Dinner™, September J. Kropf, President and COO, PCITX™ exhibit floor and the greatest number 27th, honoring outstanding executives from of Avon Products Inc. Her of international private label companies, Estée Lauder, Lâncome, L’Oreal and Victoria’s address, "Building Beauty packaging solutions, natural ingredients, lab Secret Beauty. With new International Leadership: Five Drivers of equipment, and POP displays from all over the Technical Awards and the package design Brand Power,” will set the world including U.S., Italy, Spain, Germany, awards it’s a special night to celebrate the stage for an exciting HBA. India, Asia, Brazil, and Mexico. industry’s best. Call 609-452-2800, ext. 124 Everyone is invited. to reserve your tickets now. INNOVATION PREPARATION • Seize market opportunity and stay ahead of DESTINATION • CTFA sponsored session on the latest the curve by visiting INSIDE BEAUTY™, a new • Nowhere else in North America will you regulatory issues affecting the cosmetics and OTC event platforming the exciting find a greater source of intelligence, ideas and drugs. Led by Pamela Bailey, the new President developments in the health, inspiration for your next new product launch of CTFA, this session will also cover ingredient beauty, and wellness industry. than at HBA Health & Beauty America. safety issues and international regulations. EXPLORATION EDUCATION BE THERE! • A collection of the best suppliers and • More than 200 expert speakers, 54 sessions industry experts from Grasse, France, “The and 9 Master Classes on industry-vital marketing Land of Naturals” will be at HBA. And and product development topics including Bretagne will be making a splash at INSIDE delivery systems, nanotechnology, fragrance BEAUTY with its unique marine botanicals. chemistry, industry movers and shakers, The industry has gone global…but the French naturals, brand positioning, prestige packaging are still leaders…discover why at HBA. and the men’s beauty market.

HBA 2005 SPEAKERS ...A FEW OF THE MORE THAN 200! Hear from these and other industry experts as they share their wisdom in the HBA, PCITX and INSIDE BEAUTY Conference Program: Anthony Almada Oneeka Botu Martha Eiriz-Weintraub Roslyn Griner Stacey Levine David Rohloff Susan Yee Founder, Sr. Manager, Skin Care Multicultural Design Vice-President, Marketing President Director, Animations Founder IMAGINUTRITION Marketing Manager THE HEALING GARDEN, GOSMILE SEPHORA USA ZHEN COSMETICS CLARINS USA COVER GIRL COSMETICS COTY Pamela G. Bailey Sam Margulies Dr. Barry Sears, Alexandra Zanella President & CEO Elsie Cardell Navin Geria Olivia Jan Founder and President President, Inflammation Vice President CTFA Assistant VP of Sales VP, R&D Consumer Products Perfumer ATMOSPHERE SPA DESIGN Research Foundation DLISH FRAGRANCES, INC., MIZANI/L'OREAL USA LEDERMA CORPORATION ROBERTET USA ZONEDIET CREATOR DESSERT BEAUTY Gisela Ballard Dr. Tabasum Mir DIVISION Director of Marketing John Casey Paolo Giacomoni, Ph.D. Carisa Janes Physician, Founder Stuart Skorman SHISEIDO COSMETICS President Executive Director, Creative Director MIRSKIN Founder, Chairman …and many more! NUTRITIONAL R&D Clinique SUGAR COSMETICS ELEPHANT PHARMACY Leslie Blodgett THERAPEUTICS ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES Bettina O'Neill President Michele Johnson Vice-President, Men's & Art Spiro BARE ESCENTUALS Vince Colonna Ian Ginsberg Sr. VP of Marketing Women's Fragrances President General Manager President REVLON, INC. BARNEYS NEW YORK LIZ CLAIBORNE Doreen Bortel PUIG FRAGRANCES AND C.O. BIGELOW Vice President- PERSONAL CARE NORTH APOTHECARIES Bruno Jovanovic Jim Peterson Robert Taylor Organizational Strategy, AMERICA Perfumer Vice-President of Marketing, Sr. Vice-President eq-life, INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS Personal Products CHANEL BEST BUY SUBSIDIARY & FRAGRANCES JOHNSON & JOHNSON

SHOW ACTIVITY SCHEDULE GENERAL SESSION – Keynote Address • Tuesday, September 27 • 9:00am - 10:00am

CONFERENCE SESSIONS EXHIBIT HOURS HBA INDUSTRY AWARDS DINNER Tuesday, September 27 • 10:30am - 5:30pm Tuesday, September 27 • 10:00am - 5:00pm Tuesday, September 27 • 5:30pm - 9:00pm Wednesday, September 28 • 9:00am - 5:15pm Wednesday, September 28 • 10:00am - 5:30pm Sheraton NY Hotel & Towers Thursday, September 29 • 9:00am - 12:30pm Thursday, September 29 • 10:00am - 4:00pm

For complete information on the Conference Program, Exhibitors, and to Register go to WWW.HBAEXPO.COM or call 609-452-2800. REGISTER, ATTEND & PLAN FOR SUCCESS!

Marketing Sessions Special Sessions SESSION/SUBJECT DATE TIME SESSION/SUBJECT DATE TIME

M1 Aromatherapy: Bath, Body and Mind Tuesday, Sep. 27th 10:30am – 12:00pm RS1 CTFA: Regulatory Affairs Wednesday, Sep. 28th 9:00am - 12:00pm

M2 The New-Style Man: What He Wants “ 10:30am – 12:00pm Marketing Master Classes

M3 Cult Branding “ 10:30am – 12:00pm SESSION/SUBJECT DATE TIME

M4 Successful Fragrance Marketing “ 12:30pm – 2:00pm MMC1 The Building Blocks Of Perfumery: Note by Note Tuesday, Sep. 27th 2:15pm - 5:15pm M5 Salons, Day Spas and Medical Spas: Successful MMC2 Your Brand: Maximizing the Opportunities “ 2:15pm - 5:15pm 12:30pm – 2:00pm Marketing and PR Strategies “ MMC3 Industry Movers & Shakers: Wednesday, Sep. 28th 9:00am - 12:00pm M6 Integrated Marketing: Making It All The People Who Make Things Happen 12:30pm – 2:00pm Work Together “ MMC4 What Marketers Need to Know About the Technical M7 Mergers & Acquisitions: What’s in it for YOU? “ 1:00pm - 4:00pm “ 12:30pm – 2:00pm Process and Product Development Strategies M8 How to Use Public Relations to Help Your Business “ 2:15pm – 3:45pm Packaging Sessions M9 Personal Care: Competitive Challenges “ 2:15pm – 3:45pm SESSION/SUBJECT DATE TIME M10 Managing the Perils of Buying from the Far East “ 2:15pm – 3:45pm P1 Adding Value Through Great – Maybe Daring – Design Wednesday, Sep. 28th 9:00am – 10:30am M11 Product Marketing: Skin & Derm Products “ 4:00pm – 5:30pm P2 Technology: Speeding Products to Market “ 11:00am – 12:30pm M12 Electronic Marketing: Staying Well-Connected “ 4:00pm – 5:30pm M13 DNA Technology: Anti-Counterfeiting P3 Labeling and Decorating: Enticing Embellishments “ 11:00am – 12:30pm “ 4:00pm – 5:30pm Brand Protection P4 Prestige Packaging Within Your Budget “ 1:00pm – 2:30pm M14 Cosmetic Marketing: Putting a New Face on It Wednesday, Sep. 28th 9:00am – 10:30am P5 The Power of The Package “ 3:00pm – 4:30pm M15 Sampling: Giving It a Try “ 9:00am – 10:30am M16 Bretagne Focus: Health & Beauty Resources 9:00am – 10:30am from the Sea “ Product Development Sessions (PD)/Product Development Master Classes (PDMC) M17 Building Your Company from Concept to Market SESSION/SUBJECT DATE TIME 11:00am – 12:30pm (ICMAD Presentation) “ PD1 New Developments In Hair Care Tuesday, Sep. 27th 10:30am - 12:00pm M18 Grasse: On the Way to the Naturals Valley “ 11:00am – 12:30pm PD2 New Developments In Skin Care #1 “ 10:30am - 12:00pm M19 Generational Marketing: Babies to Boomers “ 1:00pm – 2:30pm PD3 New Developments In Personal Care “ 12:30pm - 2:00pm M20 Ethnic Marketing “ 1:00pm – 2:30pm PD4 New Developments In Skin Care #2 “ 12:30pm - 2:00pm M21 New Product Development: How to do it Better 1:00pm – 2:30pm “ PDMC1 New Developments in Delivery Systems #1 “ 2:15pm - 4:45pm M22 Dominating Your Chosen Market 3:00pm – 4:30pm “ PDMC2 New Developments in Naturals “ 2:15pm - 5:15pm M23 Trademarks: What Marketing Should Know PDMC3 “ 3:00pm – 4:30pm Using an Understanding of Fragrance Chemistry About Legal Issues to Enhance Consumer Benefits Wednesday, Sep. 28th 9:00am - 12:00pm

PDMC4 New Developments in Nanotechnology “ 9:00am - 12:00pm Display Sessions PD5 New Developments in High-Performance Ingredients “ 12:30pm - 2:00pm PD6 New Developments in Color “ 12:30pm - 2:00pm SESSION/SUBJECT DATE TIME PDMC5 New Developments in Sun Preps “ 2:15pm - 5:15pm D1 Wanted: Creative Displays and New Technology Tuesday, Sep. 27th 10:30am - 12:00pm PD7 Exciting New Developments #1 “ 2:30pm - 4:00pm PD8 New Developments in Skin Care #3 “ 3:00pm - 4:30pm D2 Making POP Work: Supplier/Marketer “ 2:15pm - 3:45pm Joint Presentation PD9 Exciting New Developments #2 Thursday, Sep. 29th 9:00am - 10:30am D3 In-Store Advertising: Impacting the Customer “ 4:00pm - 5:30pm PD10 New Developments in Delivery Systems #2 “ 11:00am - 12:30pm

GUEST PASS FOR EXHIBITS ONLY – HBA Health & Beauty America • September 27 -29, 2005 • Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • New York City This complimentary Guest Pass entitles you to 3 full-days admission to the Exhibits of HBA and PCITX. Please complete this pass in its entirety and return by September 9th for advance processing. Use one form per person; photocopy if necessary. After September 9th, please register online at www.hbaexpo.com or bring this form with you to the “On-site Registration” counter at the show. Registrations received by September 9th will be processed and badges mailed to you in advance of the show. Registration forms received after September 9th will be processed but badges must be picked-up at the show at the “Pre-Registered Attendee” counter. If you register and do not receive your badge in the mail, please come to the “Pre-Registered Attendee” counter at the show to pick up your badge. Bring personal or business ID when picking up your badge. WITHOUT THIS FORM YOU WILL PAY AN ON-SITE REGISTRATION FEE OF $60 HBA Health & Beauty America is a professional trade event only. Persons under the age of 18 may not register or enter the show. INCOMPLETE FORMS WILL NOT BE PROCESSED. Your badge is not transferable. HBA Health & Beauty America reserves the right to use photographs of you at the show for promotional purposes. Attendee Profile To receive your Complimentary Admission to Exhibits, please complete this section. (All information must be completed, or application cannot be processed). First Name (please print) Last Name INDUSTRY SECTOR (please check all that apply) JOB FUNCTION (please check only one) Title Company 1. Ì Advertising/ 8. Ì Packaging/Components 14.Ì Advertising/Promotion 23.Ì Public Relations Promotion Agency 9. Ì Media/Press 15.Ì Consulting/Marketing 24.Ì Purchasing/ 2. Ì Beauty Salon/Day Spa All Functions Address 10.Ì Public Relations 16.Ì Consulting/Technical Ì 3. Ì Consulting Agency 17.Ì Cosmetician/Stylist 25. R&D, New Product City State/Province Postal Code Development 4. Ì Contract Packager/ 11.Ì Retail Establishments 18.Ì Display/ Ì Formulation 26. R&D, Scientific/ 12.Ì Sales Rep. Display Development Country Technical/All Functions 5. Ì Import/Export Independent 19.Ì Management/General 27.Ì Retail Buyer/ 6. Ì Marketer Direct 13.Ì Other, please indicate 20.Ì Marketing, Telephone Fax MM/Management To Consumers New Products 28.Ì Sales Ì 7. Ì Marketer To Retailers 21. Marketing, E-mail Address Ì Check here if you do not wish to be contacted via E-mail 29.Ì M&A All Functions 30.Ì Other, please indicate If you are interested in registering by telephone for the HBA Health & Beauty America Educational Conference, please call our FAX this card TODAY to: 972-620-3099 22.Ì Packaging/ Conference Hotline at 609-452-2800, Monday thru Friday, 9:00am - 5:00pm. Questions regarding your registration, Packaging Development Wheelchair Access: Call For Special Needs 609-452-2800 call: 972-620-3049 Source Code:WWD05

FAST ONLINE REGISTRATION: WWW.HBAEXPO.COM ADVERTISEMENT PCITX FACES BEAUTY’S FUTURE

he latest advances in beauty product development art ingredients for wrinkles, hyper-pigmentation, acne, and and ingredient technologies will be examined at cellulite. TPCITX, The Personal Care Ingredients & Technology • New Developments in Naturals, Sept. 27, 2005, Expo, to be held with HBA Health and Beauty America, 2:15–5:15 p.m., by Paolo Giacomoni, PH.D., executive Sept. 27-29, 2005, at the Jacob Javits Convention Center, director of R&D, Clinque, Estee Lauder Companies will New York City. explore trends and developments of natural ingredients The event will focus on the market’s newest findings, and more. bio-engineering and delivery systems that are creating a • New Developments in Nano-Technology, Sept. 28, new generation of cosmetics, skin care, hair care, and 2005, 9 a.m.–12 p.m., by Curtis Schwartz, research cosmeceutical products. manager, Rohm and Haas Company, will have six sessions PCITX will provide R&D, marketing professionals and on nanotechnology, anti-aging and more. product development teams an opportunity to find • Using and Understanding Fragrance Chemistry international suppliers of natural materials, essential oils, to Enhance Consumer Benefits, Sept. 28, 2005, botanicals, cosmetic ingredients, and laboratory equipment 9 a.m. – 12 p.m., by Stephen Herman, vice president “all in one place and at one time,” it reported. of new technology development, AFF International, Technical and marketing personnel attending PCITX, benefits health and beauty professionals looking to use along with their product development teams, will fragrance to increase consumer benefits, drive sales and INFORMATION meet suppliers of the latest trends in ingredients and brand awareness. formulations. • New Developments in Sun Preps, Sept. 28, 2005, The PCITX Product Development Conference, now 2:15–5:15 p.m., by Paul Thau, president, PaCar Tech, will HBA Health & Beauty America: in its seventh year, features five technical product explore new technologies and ingredients in sun protection, September 27-29, 2005 development master classes and 10 educational sessions sunless tanners, tanning enhancers and after-sun products. Location: on hair care, skin care, color and high performance Jacob K. Javits Convention Center ingredients. 655 West 34th Street (at 11th Avenue) Five master classes will focus on product development, New York City high-performance ingredients and technological advances. • New Developments in Delivery Systems, Sept. 27, Exhibit Hours: 2005, 2:15–4:45 p.m., by Meyer Rosen, president, Tuesday: 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Interactive Consulting, will explore delivery of state-of-the- Wednesday: 10 a.m. – 5:30 p.m. Thursday: 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Conference Hours: Tuesday: 10:30 a.m. – 5:30 p.m. Wednesday: 9 a.m. – 5:15 p.m. HBA EXHIBITS INNOVATION AND TECHNOLOGY Thursday: 9 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. Continued from HBA, page 1 HBA Keynote Address: “Over the years, there has been constant, incremental raw materials, delivery systems and developments in laws (Open to all exhibitors and attendees) improvement and enhancement, always keeping in mind and regulations. Tuesday: 9 – 10 a.m. the needs of every side of the industry,” observed Navin “I think anyone not attending should consider coming, Geria, vice president of R&D, LeDerma Consumer Products. because the industry is changing so very, very fast,” Geria PCITX: Geria, a veteran skin care specialist who has worked with added. “The lectures on marketing and brand development (Personal Care Ingredients & Technology Expo) HBA for 12 years as a speaker, moderator and member of are absolutely top-notch.” September 27-29, 2005 the advisory board, noted HBA’s ability to serve multiple HBA is a meeting place for “the community of beauty facets of the industry is one of its major strengths. “It has professionals” including the primary companies and Fourth Annual Industry Award Dinner: been very satisfying to know they take care simultaneously individuals that make cosmetic products, remarked Meyer Tuesday, September 27, 2005, 5:30 p.m. of the market’s needs in packaging, raw materials and Rosen, president of Interactive Consulting, which serves Sheraton New York Hotel & Towers 811 7th Avenue at 53rd Street technology. specialty chemical suppliers and manufacturers. New York City “They say you can’t be everything to everyone, but I Rosen, technical advisor to HBA and moderator at PCITX, think the HBA show really is everything to everyone!” noted HBA has grown from just a packaging-based show to Inside Beauty: HBA’s lectures and question and answer periods fulfill the a large-scale event, drawing professionals from all September 27-29, 2005 needs of both cosmetic chemists and marketing sectors of the industry. “It’s now become a major force in Jacob K. Javits Convention Center professionals, he noted. “No one part of the industry is providing a forum for technical presentations about novel New York City singled out,” with participants learning about the newest ingredients and novel products that go into those bottles. “In the several years that I’ve been involved, it’s grown Inside Beauty Exhibit Hours: enormously in terms of its appeal for attracting technical Tuesday: 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. specialists to come and talk about cutting-edge break- Wednesday: 10 a.m. – 5:30 p.m. throughs in the industry.” Thursday: 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. HBA is where “technology push and marketing pull” Inside Beauty Conference Hours: come together, Rosen explained. “HBA is particularly novel Tuesday: 9:30 a.m. – 5 p.m. in the sense that it provides for a group of people that Wednesday: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. don’t usually come together very much — marketing and technical people,” he said. Inside Beauty Keynote Speaker: As Baby Boomers look to the beauty industry for (Open Only to Conference Delegates) solutions to problems from wrinkles or hair loss, companies Tuesday: Noon - 1:15 p.m. must strive to develop “new products that really work,” and educate consumers about benefits of new chemical Natural Beauty Awards: additives, including exotic ingredients from natural sources Wednesday, September 28, 2005, 5-7 p.m. like the sea, he said. Jacob K. Javits Convention Center For more information on the HBA events, go to New York City Antonio Banderas Spirit For Her countertop display unit by www.hbaexpo.com or contact Kathleen Taulbee at The Royal Promotion Group. (609) 452-2800, ext. 118, or [email protected].

4 • HBA ADVERTISEMENT From the Inside Out: FRENCH ACCENT ON PRODUCTS FROM THE EARTH AND SEA.

elegations from two French regions will bring special Grasse will present the future of natural ingredients in perfumery. beauty presentations, September 27-29, to the Jacob Javits “The perfume industry worldwide is influenced by the trend of DCenter in New York City. healthy products and natural components. Yet, the Grasse industry At Inside Beauty, top experts and suppliers from French Bretagne embodies over 100 years’ experience in the field,” stated Grasse will exhibit for the first time in North America. “Bretagne is leading Community organization. the way in bringing these natural and high performance ingredients “The Grasse Community has come back to the HBA exhibition to the thriving market of beauty, health and wellness,” said Laura in New York, the most famous event in the American cosmetic Connolly, project manager, Inside Beauty. industry, to enhance its position and promote natural ingredients in “We are honored to make our North American debut at an event the cosmetics and spa industry,” it reported. that recognizes the growing importance of everlasting beauty and Production of natural products and development of professional French Bretagne is a worldwide supplier the keys to maintaining health and wellness from the inside out,” knowledge is a strategic goal in the region, stated Jean-Pierre of marine ingredients. added Marc Gillaux, C.E. Bretagne International. “It is exciting for us Leleux, mayor of Grasse and president of the Grasse Community to meet face-to-face with top suppliers, niche specialty retailers, spa organization. owners and top industry professionals attending the Health & Beauty Grasse’s know-how and innovation in aromatic raw materials is America events in the beauty capital of the world.” acclaimed throughout the world, affirmed Grasse Community. Bretagne is one of the world’s top suppliers of marine ingredients. In addition to its booth, Grasse Community will hold several Resources are locally sourced and processed as active ingredients in conferences at HBA, including: products like bath and personal care goods as well as healthcare • “Grasse, Flavor and Fragrance Technology Park” by André supplements and drugs. Laurent, general manager, Grasse Community; Exhibitors from Bretagne also will present an HBA session, • “Naturals, Marketing Value” by Clara Origlia, Market Dynamics; “Bretagne Focus: Health & Beauty Resources from the Sea,” • “Natural Cosmetics without Chemical Preservatives” by Christian Wednesday, Sept. 28. Presenters will discuss the region’s ingredients Seyrig, Plant System/Arkopharma; and impact on new product development, including natural • “Managing Natural Ingredients Challenges” by Bertrand de sunscreen and emulsifier/formulation properties, as well as Preville, Biolandes; anti-aging, anti-irritant, cellulite and skin blemish reduction • “Aroma Patches: A Missing Link between Skin and Perfume” by attributes. Jean-François Molina, Solabia; The city of Grasse will present a series In another HBA presentation, a contingent from the French city of • “On the Way to Natural Paths” by Michel Mane, ceo, Mane Inc. of sessions at HBA. KEYNOTERS TO INFORM AND INSPIRE

eynote speakers at HBA and Inside Beauty will examine 1994 to 1997. Under her leadership, Russia became the fastest- significant issues and trends impacting the beauty industry. growing new market entry in Avon’s history. Central Europe also grew K Susan J. Kropf, president and chief operating officer of dramatically. Kropf also had operating responsibility for China, and led Avon Products Inc., will deliver the keynote address at HBA on Avon’s entry into South Africa. Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2005, at 9 a.m. Kropf, who began her career at In a keynote presentation for the new Inside Beauty event, Cheryl Avon in 1970, is one of the company’s most experienced executives, Forberg, author and registered dietitian for the Murad Medical Group, overseeing worldwide business operations that generate $7.7 billion in will examine how certain foods minimize aging while optimizing the annual revenues, HBA stated. quality of life, on Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2005, at noon. According to Jack Gonzalez, Group Show Director of Beauty & A renowned expert on anti-aging nutrition and the author of Wellness events, Kropf’s keynote address will add tremendous value the best-selling book “Stop the Clock! Cooking: Defy Aging — Eat to HBA—the premier health, beauty and personal care product the Foods You Love,” Forberg’s keynote presentation will provide development trade show and conference. “Ms. Kropf has an insight into how certain food selections can minimize the levels impressive track record in marketing, product development and of aging compounds in our bodies while optimizing our quality Susan J. Kropf, president and coo, corporate leadership for the world’s largest direct seller of women’s of life. Avon Products Inc. beauty and personal care products,” he said. “By sharing her insights She will thoroughly discuss the different anti-aging nutrients and on Avon's rich history and the company’s successful strategies for foods that are available today and particularly those that are vital for sustaining brand power for over a century, Ms. Kropf promises to healthy, younger looking skin. deliver critical information that will inform - and inspire - everyone Forberg is a former research dietitian at Cedars Sinai Medical Center who attends.” and a professional chef and healthy recipe developer. Her recent Kropf started her career at Avon in 1970, and is one of the company’s book projects include the “New Mayo Clinic Cookbook,” which most experienced executives. During her career she has held key recently won the prestigious James Beard Award for healthy recipe positions in critical areas of the company’s operations, including development, and the “American Medical Association Healthy Heart marketing, research and development, product development, Cookbook”. customer service, manufacturing and others. In 1999, she was named She has been widely interviewed as an expert on women’s health, Chief Operating Officer, North America, with responsibility for global anti-aging nutrition and healthy cooking in popular print and marketing, supply chain, information technology, and the company’s broadcast media and is the consulting dietitian to NBC’s “The business transformation efforts. Biggest Loser” weight loss reality show. Forberg’s recipes will Prior to her recent assignments, Kropf had been executive vice be included in Dr. Nicholas Perricone’s forthcoming book, “The Cheryl Forberg, author and registered president and president, Avon North America from 1997 to 1999, and Perricone Weight-Loss Diet : A Simple 3-Part Plan to Lose the Fat, dietician. prior to that she was president, New and Emerging Markets from the Wrinkles, and the Years”.

5 • HBA

WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 19 WWD.COM

Looks on the runway at the shows during the three fashion weeks inin Durban,Durban, Johannesburg and Cape Town. PHOTOS BY IVAN NAUDE NAUDE IVAN PHOTOS BY One Country,Three Fashion Weeks By Bambina Wise fact, we showed separate collections for each fashion week, tailored specifically for our clientele in each city.” JOHANNESBURG — Does a nation like South Africa, with a population of 47 million, Kluk, who apprenticed with John Galliano after graduating from London’s Central 27 percent unemployment and a per capita income of $1,100 really need three fashion St Martins, is famed for the fit of his clothes. For SA Fashion Week, he teamed up with weeks within weeks of each other? textile manufacturer Vlisco to produce a collection that was glamorous, modern and “No,” said Marianne Fassler, one of the most enduring creative forces on the South shimmering. African design scene. “The industry is in the most extreme dire straits. We used to be “The challenge of using fabrics considered ethnic and not sophisticated appealed to highly geared up for export, with very sophisticated manufacturing facilities. Today, me,” he said, sending down the runway damask cropped pants, rope-print full skirts and that is all gone, with massive job losses in the sector. It becomes more important, panel-print brocade coats that had echoes of Marie-Antoinette opulence mixed with then, for the whole industry to pull together. All we need is one prime showcase, one African earthiness. fashion week.” Kluk has dressed Beyoncé Knowles and boasts an international client list. He be- The country’s fashion season kicked off with the first Durban Fashion Week, held lieves South African fashion still has a long way to go, and the crisis in the manufactur- in the coastal city from June 15-18. Johannesburg was the next stop, with the long-run- ing sector hasn’t helped at all. “You can have a designer with a knock-out collection,” ning South African Fashion Week from July 28-31, while Cape Town Fashion Week, he said, “and then he gets an order from Barneys for 1,000, even 500 pieces, and he now in its third year, took place from Aug. 10-13. simply cannot deliver. Which is why I think the industry has a future in terms of a Gavin Rajah is in a unique position to comment on the emergence of competing more couture-based approach. I know I can give the customer good value for money fashion weeks. The Durban-born, Cape Town-based designer is equally known for his and good design, with quality on par with that of the top European houses at a fraction sleek, luxurious tailoring and his controversial profile. Once heavily involved in Cape of the price.” Town Fashion Week, he has since turned his attention to Durban. The Congress of South African Trade Unions reports the nation’s clothing, textile “SA Fashion Week is so beauty pageant,” he said. “Is it a seminar or a fashion and leather sectors are close to collapse, with jobs being lost at an alarming rate. week? A trade show or young designer expose? There’s this focus on being so politi- According to a report in the newspaper the Mail & Guardian last March, “approxi- cally correct and pushing avant-garde design that the realities of the business are mately 100,000 formal jobs have been lost in the last 10 years, 17,000 in the past 12 completely overlooked. months alone and 800 in January 2005.” “Cape Town, on the other hand, is very rah-rah-rah. Though it’s probably more in The threatened closure of clothing giant Rex Truform’s Salt River plant in the touch with fashion reality than Jo’burg, it is ultracommercial.” Western Cape would render another 1,000 people jobless. Durban, Rajah believes, is well placed to become the fashion week, and it’s not just “It’s not a question of skill or training, but of production,” insisted Stephen because of the abundance of talent. “It’s a chance to do something right, to offer not Quatember who, along with David Tlale, Palesa Mokubung and Palesa Tshukudu, is a just great design and amazing quality, but professionalism of the highest standard, as young talent to watch out for. For now, however, Quatember is thinking domestic, well. All the press came, local and international. We had buyers flying in, notably though his debut collection was pared down and polished enough to attract an inter- from the Middle East. But we didn’t wait for the buyers to see us; we went to see them national audience. within a week after the shows with a complete and polished look book.” Rajah believes “the strategic objectives of fashion week should be focusing on the “It’s a reflection of egos,” said Dion Chang, one of the driving forces behind SA ability to deliver; growing a sustainable industry that will generate revenue for the Fashion Week. “I personally believe it’s completely unnecessary to have three fashion economy.” weeks. It doesn’t do the industry any good.” Many designers, he said, are “so bent on trying to be different that they end up not What sets SA Fashion Week apart from the upstarts, Chang claimed, is its commit- being different at all. It’s important to look at fashion not just as a platform for design, ment to the development of the fashion industry through the discovery of new talent, but a platform for the industry.” ongoing training and education and exposure to the public. That means going back to the basics, sharpening pattern-making and technique, as “Five years ago, Stoned Cherrie, Maya Prass, Black Coffee and Craig Native were well as becoming more market savvy, acknowledging the importance of marketing and the new talents to look out for,” he said. “Today, they are established names in South public relations support, observers said. African fashion.” “It’s so typically South African,” Fassler said. “All this competition between Cape Indeed, in a groundbreaking collaboration engineered by SA Fashion Week, Town and Johannesburg, and now Durban. It’s completely shot the industry in the foot.” Woolworths recently launched an exclusive limited-edition collection designed by SA Fashion Week closed with a show that featured Fassler’s intricately detailed Prass, Native and Amanda Laird Cherry for Stoned Cherrie. and pieced confections of crochet and chiffon, ethnic shweshwe prints stenciled onto It was a significant move by the nation’s top retail chain, which is more accus- silk and deconstructed into floaty panels. tomed to production runs of 1,000 units and up rather than the much smaller quanti- Fassler took a bow alongside another local designer, Vino, and three of the biggest ties of about 400 units of the designer collection. The limited-edition line is being dis- names in Indian couture — Rohit Bal, Tarun Tahiliani and Malini Ramani. tributed in carefully selected Woolworths stores nationwide and has been a commer- In a way, the Indian guest designers stole the show — Bal’s delicate all-white col- cial success. lection, Tahiliani’s sophisticated, structured draped silhouettes and Ramani’s color- Despite rumors that designers showing in Durban would be banned from partici- soaked and brightly beaded Indian princess-meets-rock star resortwear demonstrated pating in Johannesburg, some did at least two, if not all three, fashion weeks. “I don’t to South Africans just how successfully the three designers have been able to tran- care if it’s a fashion week, a fashion show or a fashion fiesta,” said designer Malcolm scend the current hippie-luxe-with-a-touch-of-Bollywood trend and reinterpret tradi- Kluk. “We have our customer base in all three places, and we were there for them. In tional Indian elements in a bold, contemporary manner with global appeal. 20 WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 WWD.COM Media/Advertising

certainly seems to be having a ball this summer. The Times three weeks after Kennedy and his wife, Carolyn Bessette, and Miller’s agent did not respond to requests for and her sister were killed in a plane crash en route to see comment. — Sara James the Radziwills in Martha’s Vineyard. The two couples were MEMO PAD very close. Carole and Anthony met while she was working MO’ MONEY? NO PROBLEM: OK magazine may have spent a with Peter Jennings at ABC and he was working with Sam MILLER’S CROSSING: Jason lot of money to get Sean “Diddy” Combs for the cover of its Donaldson and Diane Sawyer at Primetime. Epstein continues to find odd third issue, but at least it didn’t have to pay postage on the On Oct. 19, 2004, The New York Post mentioned the ways of showing support for his check. Combs — who recently dropped the “P.” from his book deal and said the memoir sold to Scribner for jailed spouse, Judith Miller. The stage moniker — stars in a 10-page spread that also $500,000. The book was also mentioned briefly in a New esteemed book publisher is features his girlfriend, his mom, his yacht and, for some York Times piece about BookExpo offerings. And a Jan. 26 currently telling friends that his reason, Donatella Versace and Rupert Everett. Meanwhile, the story in Newsday reported that Caroline Kennedy Schlossberg wife “is having the time of her rapper’s Sean John clothing label has its flagship on the was upset that her cousin by marriage was writing a memoir life” in prison. ground floor of the Fifth Avenue building whose second floor and reprinting private family conversations. Really? The time of her life? houses OK’s offices. “She certainly has a right to tell the story,” said O editor According to a Wednesday Judith Miller OK, of course, is the only U.S. celebrity weekly that in chief Amy Gross. “She was sitting at Martha’s Vineyard report on Salon.com, Miller, a admits to paying stars for their cooperation (as opposed, say waiting for them [John and Carolyn Kennedy] to arrive. reporter for The New York Times who has been behind bars cynics, to the ones that pay without admitting it, disguising She’s the one who started the search.” for 54 days for refusing to testify before a grand jury the bribes as photographers’ fees or donations to a star’s pet As for how this excerpt came about, Gross said, “It began investigating the outing of undercover CIA operative Valerie charity). Asked whether the Combs story was a case of with [features editor] Pat Towers coming into my office saying Plame, “is holding up well, but has had some stomach checkbook journalism, Christian Toksvig, the magazine’s Nan Graham [editor in chief of Scribner] sent this over and problems related to jail food, misses the Internet and chief executive officer, said, “I think there was some money would we be interested. Not only was it about something that outside contact, and has had to withstand a constant involved there.” How much? Toksvig was riveting and powerful, but it was stream of hip-hop videos on the communal television sets.” wouldn’t say, declining to comment on Diddy, as seen in OK. incredibly well written, clean and Times executive editor Bill Keller told The Los Angeles a source’s claim that Combs received powerful and not sappy. [Radziwill] Times recently, “Sadly, Judy is not on a fellowship at some more than $1 million for a package avoids so many pitfalls.” Gross added, writers’ colony. She is in JAIL. She is sleeping on a foam deal that will include future stories in “We were very reluctant to do anything mattress on the floor, and her communications are, shall we OK and attendance at one or more of that would seem exploitative because say, constrained.” the magazine’s events. (Jessica Oprah is very good friends with Maria That Miller might be having a good time comes as no Simpson, who appeared on OK’s Shriver and the family. It’s a gentle, fair surprise to many among the rank and file at the Times, who premiere issue, reportedly agreed to a piece. I think John and Carolyn are don’t see her as quite the martyr that Times publisher Arthur similar arrangement.) “Our stars don’t portrayed in a loving way.” — S. J. Sulzberger Jr. does. And friends of the couple said earlier reports want us to talk about the amounts that of Miller’s suffering in jail are dated now that she’s settled in at are involved in the contracts,” he said. POINTS EAST: The International Herald the Alexandria Detention Center in Virginia. The hip-hop and Toksvig doesn’t particularly enjoy Tribune’s annual luxury conference, bad food, coupled with a parade of important visitors have, talking about it either, insisting that hosted by fashion editor Suzy Menkes, they said, made the experience a novel and interesting one only 5 percent of OK’s stories involve is becoming a moveable feast. The for her. Too, Miller is evidently enjoying all the attention she’s such payments. “It’s nothing to do conference’s fifth edition will be held getting in the press and is likely to have her pick of book with the money,” he said. “It’s to do in Dubai at the new Park Hyatt hotel deals if she emerges from the ordeal with her reputation with the way we treat people.” The there Dec. 5 and 6. “We like to go intact. In the same way Martha Stewart’s time at Alderson hallmark of that treatment is gentle where the action is,” Menkes said. initiated her comeback, Miller’s internment has burnished an questioning that glides around “Also, we like to give people a slight image tarnished by months of controversial reporting leading sensitive topics, allowing celebrities to surprise and not go to the obvious up to the war in Iraq. (Indeed, one Times source said spin as they please. If that’s the case, places.” Last year, Menkes focused on recently, “She thinks she’s Martha Stewart.”) But while so be it, said Toksvig. “We don’t want to write stories we Asia’s potential by hosting the conference in Hong Kong Miller has received considerable support from The Times’ know aren’t true, and that’s what the established weekly rather than Paris. Menkes added she plans a strong Op-Ed page in recent weeks, The Huffington Post and other press here does.” Ouch. emphasis on the jewelry category, too. — Miles Socha liberal blogs are now insinuating that she may have played a Still, OK’s celebrity-friendly stance apparently wasn’t role in the Plame leak. Her plight isn’t likely to be helped by the enough for Combs; he wanted cash, too. Toksvig says that’s his A RELIABLE TEAM: “In a world of reality TV and blogs, where perception that she’s “having the time of her life.” prerogative. “We have to accept that these people have very there’s such a thing as too much information, it’s hard to This isn’t the first time Epstein has done or said profitable brands. It’s no different than paying them a modeling figure out what really is gossip today,” said Roxanne Roberts, something potentially embarrassing to his wife during fee.” Looked at that way, he suggests, whatever OK paid Combs who was tapped this week as co-writer for The Washington Plamegate. After Miller requested house arrest in lieu of jail — whether it was actually $1 million, or something less than Post’s Reliable Source five-day-a-week gossip column. time, Epstein joked at a dinner party that having her home that — was a bargain. “Diddy is worth millions. If we were to Roberts will begin writing the column at the end of 24 hours a day, seven days a week “wouldn’t be very good pay him an amount that would show up in his balance, it would September to give her co-writer, Amy Argetsinger, a veteran from my point of view,” according to a July 7 piece in The have to be five or 10 million.” — Jeff Bercovici Metro reporter and outgoing Los Angeles bureau chief, time Times. Now, he’s living a bachelor’s life with the cockapoo to move back to D.C. “It’s reported items we can verify as puppy Miller gave him last spring to prepare him in case MEMOIR MUST READ: Why haven’t we heard more about this being true. We won't run blind items. We’ve never done that.” she had to “go away.” book? Part of the attraction of the new job, said Roberts, is The New York Sun also reported last month that Epstein Carole Radziwill’s remarkable new memoir “What discovering what makes powerful people tick. Zeroing in on was cruising around the Mediterranean just three weeks Remains” is excerpted in the September issue of O, but John Roberts, George W. Bush’s enigmatic Supreme Court after Miller was jailed. Not mentioned in the Sun piece: there’s been relatively little other press to date, which is nominee, she said, “I’m less interested in sitting and Epstein was a guest of Shirley Lord, a longtime beauty surprising not only because the book is due out in just a few talking legal theory with him. I’d love to know what he does director of Vogue, who is now an adviser to Silversea luxury weeks from publisher Scribner, but also because it is in part when he’s not working, movies he likes, books he reads, his cruises. Lord is married to A.M. Rosenthal, former executive about the Kennedys. The memoir chronicles the author’s favorite hangout in D.C., what his guilty weakness is. I’d editor of the Times. marriage to the late Anthony Radziwill, first cousin of John love to know things about him he won’t necessarily tell me. Even if Miller isn’t enjoying herself in lockdown, Epstein F. Kennedy Jr. Anthony died of a rare cancer, fibrosarcoma, Gossip is unauthorized information.” — Susan Watters

discount to pages in Elle Accessories.) These include Dollhouse, Socco, Fope and The Sak. Elle Accessorizes With Launch In another somewhat unusual move, Hachette did not bother to conduct any testing beforehand to assess By Jeff Bercovici potential consumer demand for the title. “We know how well accessories resonate in the magazine, so it’s NEW YORK — Spin-offs are to fashion magazines what almost as though we’ve done the consumer research,” gerbil-sized dogs are to the Paris Hilton set: accessories. Smith said. “If you put a line on the cover about shoes So when it came time for Elle to extend its brand with a or about beauty, you sell more copies. It’s a fact.” new launch, it was inevitable that shoes, bags and jewel- (Does that mean Elle Beauty could be the next in line ry would spring to mind. The first issue of Elle for takeoff? Smith calls that “a good assumption.”) Accessories goes on sale Aug. 29. To those who think a fashion magazine entirely While only 400,000 copies will be distributed this time, about accessories is like a food magazine just about ap- according to group publishing director Carol Smith, it petizers, editor Kelly Killoren Bensimon points out that marks the beginning of a new era of expansion for the Elle they constitute one of the most dynamic sectors of the brand, which already includes Elle Décor and Ellegirl. retail landscape. Chains including Gap, J. Crew, Club Monaco and Banana Republic “This is a definite launch of a definite division, which will have all expanded their accessories collections to take advantage of the boom. “If you definitely have more than accessories,” she said. want to be a big brand now, you have to have accessories,” said Bensimon, who is mar- In fact, she said, Elle parent Hachette Filipacchi ried to Gilles Bensimon, international creative director for all Elle editions. Media, without waiting to see how the first issue of Elle Accessories sells, has already The premiere issue of Elle Accessories, she said, has a “European sensibility,” committed to publishing two more in 2006. It was a relatively easy call, she added, be- which, among other things, means it is organized more like a book than a magazine, cause the spin-off, unlike most launches, will make money on its first issue, assuming with content divided into sections she refers to as “chapters.” “I want readers to it hits what Smith described as a conservative newsstand sales estimate. The issue’s stop, breathe, look at what I’m doing on a page and then move on,” she said. “If you 190 pages include 108 ad pages from 79 advertisers, 16 of whom have never run in already feel proprietary about a brand, I want you to feel more proprietary, because Elle. (Those advertisers who are in the flagship were able to apply their corporate I’m going to give you all the information about it.” Style maven? Check. Hoarder of lipsticks? Check. Advertising Age’s Woman to Watch? Check. So JANE? Check.

Welcome Brandon Holley, JANE editor-in-chief. ISOLE: MARNI; JEANS: DIESEL; NECKLACE: MARNI NECKLACE: DIESEL; JEANS: MARNI; ISOLE: INEEN HAIR: SARAH POTEMPA, THE WALL GROUP MAKE-UP: CHRISTOPHER CHRISTOPHER MAKE-UP: GROUP WALL THE POTEMPA, SARAH HAIR: INEEN TER: STELLA MCCARTNEY; CAM APHY: FRANK D SCHWERE STYLING: ALYSSA ART DEPARTMENT SWEA GR OTO DOFF, DOFF, PH AR 22 WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 WWD.COM Conquering the Tower Something Is Begotten in the State of Denmark NEW YORK — In Copenhagen’s University’s People & Robots quest to be to design what Cannes Laboratory, the University of is to film, the Scandinavian city Pittsburgh’s School of Nursing, One Thrill at a Time will be dressing up quaint public Stanford University, the squares with creations from its University of Michigan and the Art NEW YORK — More often than not, the mad rush to get out of town 2005 Index awards. Institute of Pittsburgh. on Friday nights winds up being a real workout — luggage Presented every four Molo Design’s Stephanie heaving, temples beating and foot tapping. years, the blue ribbons, so Forsythe and Todd MacAllen But Rotterdam-based UCX Architects aims to to speak, are the world’s concocted “softwall,” a two-inch- lighten the load for weekend warriors with its largest design and wide partition made of recycled proposal for Adrenalintower, a city skyscraper with innovation awards, materials that stretches to 25 feet. areas carved out for snowboarding, skydiving, with five Index Aside from providing instant skiing, ice climbing, desert-type hiking, mountain winners pocketing privacy, the wall also absorbs Molo Design’s “softwall” in its biking and other heart-racing activities. about $122,000 each. sounds. various stages. Thrill-seekers are accustomed to instant Design Participants are Another of this year’s more gratification — they don’t want to wait to have fun, encouraged to work unusual submissions is explained UCX cofounder Jasper Jägers. with engineers, “Siyathemba,” a Web-based “Before everyone took a plane to Hamburg to ski [or economists, competition hosted by Architecture exercise.] Now each city has its own beach and if they humanitarians and other for Humanity. It invites designers don’t have one, they make it,” Jägers said. “People nowadays practical-minded people to and architects to present proposals need some kind of adventure. They don’t want to go to the park to devise ways design can solve global for a combined soccer field and sit in the sun.” problems. health care facility for the South Consider the “lifestraw,” an African community of Somkhele in oversized drinking straw with a KwaZulu-Natal, an area with one of UCX Architects’ design for the filtering system to allow users in the world’s highest HIV/AIDS rates. Adrenalintower. developing countries or those Learning about AIDS would be faced with natural disasters to mandatory for children interested drink water from a river or any in playing soccer, Hentze said. other bacteria-infested water. The Index awards exhibition will Designed by Torben Vestergaard feature work from all five categories: Frandsen, Rob Fleuren and Moshe A woman drinking from body, home, community, work and Frommer of the Vestergaard a “lifestraw.” play. Another exhibition, “Futures Frandsen Group, the product will Scenario,” will be staged in be among the 100-plus items to be displayed Sept. Copenhagen’s Town Square, showcasing the work of 23 to Nov. 13. Pavilions will be set up in design students from China, India, the United Arab Copenhagen’s public squares next month and will Emirates, South Africa, Chile, the U.S. and Denmark. be free and open round-the-clock for seven weeks. Creative leaders will descend on Copenhagen “Our purpose is to improve life for people,” next month for the Index: Views Summit, a three- said Index communication director Peter Hentze. day brainstorming session that will result in a “The design is not only tangible, but intangible. It catalogue of suggestions for new products, could be a strategy, a service or commodity.” services and strategies that will be made The “NurseBot,” a robot programmed to help available to any interested party without any fee. elderly people live independently instead of Samsung head of design Joong Yeal Choi, The moving into nursing homes, strives to be all three Arlington Institute’s president John Peterson, Fast of those things. The Nursebot would remind its Company founder Alan Webber, LEGO chief elderly roommate to take his or her medicine at a executive officer Jorgen Vig Knudstorp, architect designated time and would inform the individual Ron Pompeii and other heavy hitters will have some about the weather so that they would dress company from the fashion world. Old Navy’s head of appropriately. The robotic assistant with the ruby design, Ivy Ross, and Levi Strauss Asia Pacific red lipstick and blinking eyes was designed by president John Andersson are on the guest list. researchers and designers at Carnegie Mellon — R.F. Absolut’s Designer Baggage

NEW YORK — The myriad incarnations of Absolut just keep on coming, but they are taking a different shape. The heavily advertised vodka label has rounded up 10 up- and-coming designers from different countries to create a bag inspired by a word printed on the face of an Absolut bottle. This time around it was “famous,” and for Germany’s Désirée Klein that translated into a bag with what looks like an

Absolut bottle stashed in it. “Everyone knows the famous ELSPETH DIEDERIX PHOTOS BY bottle,” she explained. If this all sounds a little like Absolut overkill, it should come as no surprise that the company selected countries that are important markets to the brand and then found the The Adrenalintower, which is also tagged “Leisure Island,” is designers. still conceptual at this point but could be built for “hundreds of “The countries were often unusual millions,” Jägers said. The firm has tried to take all elements into choices and therefore [it was] harder to Above: a account. High-rise diving, which could range from 20 to 200 meters, find designers,” said Keith Bell, creative design by calls for elevators filled with water or equipped with hot tubs so director of KesselsKramer, the Amsterdam Désirée Klein. divers would not catch a chill. Similarly, elevators with snowy company that got the project. Left: Giulia interiors would whisk skiers and snowboarders to their peaks. Some of the 150 limited-edition bags Piersanti’s Jägers and business partner Ben Huygen crafted the design for were shipped to fashion editors, even version. an exhibition sponsored by the Architecture Institute of Rotterdam though the collection will not be sold in Bottom: Julia at the local public library last winter. Jägers likened the stores or online. and Renata Adrenalintower’s scale to that of Disney World, but “for the “We want the real items to be hard to Franco’s moment” there aren’t any investors lined up. It would also put little- find,’’ Bell said. “We envision handbag offering. known Rotterdam on the map as a travel destination, he said. fights between fashion journalists to try “We really believe it’s a matter of time before these kinds of and snatch a favorite bag or T-shirt.” things will be possible,” Jägers said. “Ten years ago people would Dutch art photographer Elspeth Diederix has shot a look go to functions but today functions are being brought to the people.” book, showing the bags surrounded by items designers said The year-old UCX has whipped up other unconventional ideas they would keep in them if they were famous. Poland’s Aga for Rotterdam, such as its prize-winning Red Light Platform, a Siereks and her brothers Pshemko and Tomek managed to futuristic indoor plaza designed to intertwine the Dutch city’s not let their new-found fame get too inflated. The trio went legalized prostitution, which in Rotterdam is visible in windows, in with a humble laundry bag made of recycled material. clubs and on the streets. “If you ask people around the globe what the most famous Accessible by car, the Sky Platform would offer privacy, as well and the most used bag is, we think you will find it is not a Gucci as a view of the city, and a cluster of nightclubs. or Fendi bag, but a simple laundry bag,” Aga Siereks said. — Rosemary Feitelberg — R.F. Music-obsessed? Check. Drummer in search of a band? Check. Newsstand sales record breaker? Check. So JANE? Check.

Welcome Brandon Holley, JANE editor-in-chief. USANDTHINGS RRINGS: TENTHO RRINGS: NEEN HAIR: SARAH POTEMPA, THE WALL GROUP MAKE-UP: CHRISTOPHER CHRISTOPHER MAKE-UP: GROUP WALL THE POTEMPA, SARAH HAIR: NEEN APHY: FRANK DI SCHWERE STYLING: ALYSSA ART DEPARTMENT AND TROUSERS: TANK STELLA MCCARTNEY; EA GR OTO DOFF, DOFF, AR PH 24 WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 WWD.COM Mitchells in Westport, Conn. Stan Herman and Derek Lam Win Dallas Fashion Awards By Holly Haber Derek Lam

DALLAS — Stan Herman and Derek Lam will headline the Dallas Fashion Awards ceremony here. Herman will receive the Fashion Excellence Award and Lam the Rising Star Award at the Oct. 29 event. A three-time Coty Award winner, Herman will be honored for his career in fashion design and efforts to promote the industry and raise money for charity. As president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America since 1991, Herman helped launch the 7th On Sixth runway shows and led CFDA campaigns that generated more than $12 million for AIDS education and $10 million for breast cancer research. Mitchells Joins Forces With Marshs “We are pleased to honor Stan Herman’s legendary service to the fashion industry,” said Cindy Morris, chief operating office of By Jean E. Palmieri tion, also will remain involved in stead of trying to transport the Dallas Market Center, which previously honored Diane von the business as consultants, Mitchells or Richards to a new Furstenberg and Carolina Herrera, among others. NEW YORK — The Mitchells dy- Mitchell said. community, the path led to Herman, who has designed everything from bras to uniforms nasty is about to get bigger. “We will be a powerhouse” Marshs, he said. “Opening free- for companies from McDonald’s to Jet Blue, said in an interview The upscale Westport, Conn.- said Ron Marsh. “There is a spe- standing stores has a higher he felt “very privileged, and I’m in very good company.” based retailer has made a deal to cial synergy between our fami- risk-reward than merging exist- He is now designing fall 2006 loungewear under his own label merge with Marshs, a Huntington, lies and our stores, which makes ing businesses,” Mitchell said. and serving as fashion consultant to Federal Express. N.Y.-based store. Terms were not for a perfect pairing.” The two companies have Lam is capping a year in which he received Swarovski’s Perry disclosed. Marshs will retain its name been talking for a year and ac- Ellis Award for Women’s Wear from the CFDA and was one of 10 Bob Mitchell, co-president of but the Mitchells plan to more tively negotiating for the past designers nominated for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. The Mitchells, announced the acqui- “aggressively” market the busi- three months, he added. winners will be announced in November. sition to Marshs’ associates on ness. The first blitz will come When Mitchells bought The Rising Star Award is “wonderful and a great honor,” he said. Monday afternoon and made a next month in a mailer that will Richards a decade ago, the store “Derek Lam has created an amazing design business and similar announcement to be sent to Marshs’ 19,000 cus- had annual sales of $10 million. A gained favor with the critics in a very short period of time,” Mitchells and Richards employ- tomers announcing the merger. dramatic new store that opened Morris said. ees on Tuesday. Mitchells pur- Marking his third anniversary in October, Lam expects to do chased the Greenwich, Conn.- $4.5 million in wholesale volume this year. He attributed part of based Richards 10 years ago. his success to catering to women in the South and in Asia with In an exclusive interview, This is a great opportunity to take our plenty of seasonless dressing. Mitchell said Marshs, which “ “I always concentrate on something that has a light hand and has annual sales of $9 million, business to the next level. This is not is versatile and not strictly urban or cocktail or evening,” Lam is the “dominant men’s wear said. “It’s really about a modern lifestyle.” presence on Long Island.” The about cost-cutting; it’s all about growth. Lam, who is working on a small clothing collection for Tod’s store also carries a smattering — Bob Mitchell, Mitchells” for next spring, said he was hopeful that his affiliation with the of women’s items. leather accessories firm might blossom into a shoe and handbag “This is a great opportunity to collection under his own label. take our business to the next The same book also will be in- five years ago and added women’s The gala will mark the 30th anniversary of the awards pro- level,” Mitchell said. “This is not serted into The New York Times wear has brought the volume up gram, which is intended to spotlight global fashion leaders and about cost-cutting; it’s all about in September. It will be entitled to $40 million, Mitchell said. He is top resources that exhibit to retailers at the Market Center. The growth. The companies have sim- “Perfect Pairs” and will speak hoping to have similar success winners of eight Dallas Fashion Awards will be revealed at the ilar cultures and merchandise about the combination of the with Marshs. black-tie party set for the Great Hall of the International Apparel mixes and their associates also two businesses. If the Marshs integration is Mart. They will be determined by a poll of buyers. have tremendous longevity — A full renovation of Marshs is as successful as expected, that’s the most important asset.” scheduled to begin in January Mitchell said there might be op- Chris Mitchell, Bob Mitchell’s and to be completed by August portunities for similar expan- cousin who has been at the 2006. Mitchell said it’s still un- sions in the future. “Our strate- Maria Westport store for the past two known whether Marshs will add gy is not to have 50 stores, but to Fashion Scoop Sharapova years, will relocate to Long a more significant women’s operate high-end specialty SHARAPOVA STRIDES IN: The Island and comanage Marshs business during its renovation stores in suburban markets,” he U.S. Open matches don’t start along with Ron Marsh, the third next year. said. “We believe that’s the wave until Aug. 29, but tennis champ generation of Marshs. His uncle, “We’d been looking [for a lo- of how to compete against the Maria Sharapova is hitting the Daniel, and father, Marvin, co- cation] in Long Island for stronger, larger, more consoli- city next week on behalf of some owners and the second genera- years,” Mitchell said. But in- dated big guys.” of her sponsors. On Monday, the 18-year-old wunderkind will meet and greet teen girls and showcase her U.S. Open apparel and footwear at Tr ue Religion Begins Trading on Nasdaq Town Tennis Club at an event sponsored by Nike, while on LOS ANGELES — True Religion external directors to its board. officer, said True Religion ex- Tuesday she will join Tag Heuer Apparel Inc. began trading Shares fell more than 1 per- pects revenue to reach $95 mil- to launch the Formula 1 Thursday on the Nasdaq Stock cent to $14.80 on the first day lion in 2005. Diamonds watch at Fortunoff on Market, completing a move on the Nasdaq, which was Lesser said the move to Fifth Avenue. Hopefully, from the Over-The-Counter down 0.4 percent overall to Nasdaq means the company Sharapova is still finding time to Bulletin Board that parallels 2136.08. will have to follow more strin- practice among all her sponsor its rising sales in premium True Religion was listed on gent financial standards and activities. She failed to win denim. the OTC in June 2003 after governance rules. The compa- Wimbledon this year after taking The jeans manufacturer completing a reverse merger ny also will be able to attract the title in 2004, and has yet to said the Nasdaq approved its with a defunct mining firm. more institutional investors, he win a Grand Slam event this request to join after the compa- Since then, True Religion’s said. Of its 4,500 shareholders, year. Nonetheless, she is now ny met a series of require- sales have increased to $27.7 Lesser estimated that 100 are seeded at number two and is ments, including maintaining a million in 2004 from $2.4 mil- mutual funds and other finan- expected to move up to number share price of more than $5 for lion in 2003. Charles Lesser, cial institutions. one when the WTA rankings are 90 consecutive days and adding the company’s chief financial — Khanh T.L. Tran released next week. The Ultimate Fall Beauty Shopping Guide

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For information on advertising, contact Sarah Murphy, publisher, beauty and marketing, WWDMediaWorldwide, at 212-630-4656. 26 WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 WWD.COM Summers’ Time LONDON — Dapper art dealer Martin Summers may be polished right down to his matching pocket handkerchief and dark red socks, but chances are there’s a trace of dirt under his fingernails. For decades, Summers successfully juggled a career as London’s top Impressionist art dealer with one as garden designer, simultaneously selling Monets and winning awards at the Chelsea Flower Show. Those two passions were always related. “Gardening is painting with pots,” says Summers during a tour of his rambling rooftop garden with its wooden Buddhas, lush trellises, tinkling metal bells and kooky, onion-domed minarets. “And like painting, the shapes can be both vertical and horizontal.” Two raven-haired, ultragroomed Pekinese pups keep watch over the mazelike garden Summers has taken 25 years to create. There are 2,500 flowerpots (it takes about two and a half hours to water them every day), serpentine passage- ways, black iron stairwells and even a small Victorian greenhouse. Today Summers, 66, has the best of both worlds. After closing his famous Lefevre Gallery in Mayfair in 2002 (it’s now the site of the Stella McCartney flagship), Summers is back in the art game with a by-ap- Arts pointment gallery in Chelsea called Martin Summers Fine Art Ltd. The 2,000-square-foot space opened this spring, and specializes in Martin Summers in his rooftop paradise. mid-20th-century painting. The best part is that the gallery is right next door to his Chelsea home, which he built by joining four lumi- & As for the art business, Summers says he’s happy he’s downshifted. nous artists’ studios in the late Seventies. “In London, you don’t have to be in the West End anymore. If you have “When I don’t have gallery appointments, I can be up in the garden,” People great pictures and a decent space, people will make an appointment to see says Summers, with a twinkle in his eye. “I get such a kick out of that gar- you. It’s a quieter, more discreet way of doing things,” says Summers, who den every day.” Summers used to do all of the work on his own and his clients’ joined the Lefevre Gallery in 1968. gardens, until his back gave out. He now employs a staff of five at Martin Summers During the years that followed, he became a legend on the London arts and social Gardens Ltd. circuit, hanging out with the Hollywood and music set. Jack Nicholson is his daughter Summers often relies on artistic tricks of perspective to enhance his gardens. “Put a Tara’s godfather; Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel used to sing lullabies to the baby in mirror behind a tall, out-of-scale Indian door and it looks like a passageway to a secret her crib, and Sir Elton John and Bob Dylan have performed during parties at his garden. The mirror reflects the plants and doubles the depth of the space,” he says. home. At his birthday party earlier this year, Dani Harrison played the guitar and Art and gardening weren’t always completely entwined. Summers only discovered Seal sang. his love of gardening after a burglar, whom he pinned down late one night after a bun- At the new gallery, he’s formed a partnership with the Geneva-based dealer gled break-in, suggested he put up trellises on the rooftop to discourage trespassers. Jan Krugier, who controls the Marina Picasso Collection. That means Summers “He told me thieves don’t like trellises because they wobble,” recalls Summers has access to about 900 Picassos, including drawings and paintings from the Rose with a laugh. “So that’s how I started.” Soon after, he bought a potted weeping willow and Cubist periods. tree, mostly because it was 50 percent discounted, he says, dragged it up to the roof Serendipitously, around the time he decided to open a new gallery, a special col- and started arranging flowerpots around it. lection of 150 paintings by artists including Jean Dubuffet, Cy Twombly and Howard Summers says he likes the idea of a potted garden because it allows him more Hodgkin fell into his lap. freedom. “If you have a normal garden with flower beds, you’re stuck with the place- It was a collection owned by Peter Cochrane, Summers’ longtime mentor and ment. But with a pot garden you can move things around and put plants together friend whom he’d met during his first job at the Arthur Tooth and Sons gallery on which wouldn’t necessarily grow together.” Bruton Street. Cochrane, who died last year at the age of 91, always wanted Summers He describes his style as Oriental. “I love trellises and mirrors and the wackiness to sell off the works from the private collection he amassed during his long career. of artifacts from foreign places. And I like the fact that the artifacts are not in per- Some of those paintings — including works by Hodgkin, Sam Francis, and Allen fect condition — a lot of them are cheap, which means the garden doesn’t have a Jones — are now hanging on the walls of Summers’ airy gallery, with its soaring ceil- ‘precious’ feel.” ings, skylights and hardwood floors. The interiors of the home he shares with his American-born wife, Anne, are a di- On the ground floor, other paintings from the Cochrane collection — by Yves rect reflection of that aesthetic. There are oil paintings of flowers hanging in the sit- Klein, Frank Stella and Ellsworth Kelly — hang on the monochrome walls: There’s a ting room, desert nomad-like tents hanging from the ceiling of the music room and black room, a yellow one, a red one and a blue one, all inspired by a color-block chair piles of artifacts from his travels to Kashmir, Bali, Thailand, Japan, the Middle East by the Dutch artist Gerrit Rietveld. and South America. “These are the paintings I cut my teeth on as a young man,” says Summers, who Adventure and discovery run in the family. His father, Sir Spencer Summers, was started his art dealing career in 1961 at Arthur Tooth, where Cochrane had been in the longtime chairman of Outward Bound, the educational adventure program with charge of contemporary art. “With this new art venture, I feel like I’ve come full cir- branches around the world. One of Summers’ first jobs was as an Outward Bound in- cle. The paintings feel like old friends.” structor on Mount Kilimanjaro. — Samantha Conti PHOTOS BY TIM JENKINS PHOTOS BY

Details of the garden. WWD, FRIDAY, AUGUST 19, 2005 27

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