Chapter 1: Introduction

ANTARCTICA SIXTY YEARS AGO 101

CHAPTER 1 Introduction

Introduction ship-borne tourists annually are visitors. One hopes their 'Obligate Pinnipedophagi' were we (that is, necessarily ships are adequately insured! seal-eaters). That is a stimulating phrase and very true, and However, 60 years ago we did have a tiny Fox Moth suitable to introduce some of the facts and curiosities of aircraft and a small motor launch. We did have personal our Antarctic exploration 60 years ago. It was a dozen competence, confidence, and zeal for discovery. Radio years after return from Graham Land that I worked in communication then was minimal, and certainly we had Oman with the Ichthyophagi, as Herodotus called the fish- little disturbing awareness of the tergiversations and the eaters, and as such they still then remained. The intention horrors of the world beyond. Aloneness and total self- sustenance were the real and natural order, and none in this book is to give interest and pleasure in the reading, expected more. and perspective, too. And we did, I aver, produce more new knowledge, in So much has changed in Antarctica in the decades that proportion to money spent, than any other Antarctic ven- have gone, that a reminder from an octogenarian partici- ture before or since. Quite wrongly the BGLE 1934-1937 pant should have its interest today. So my chief objective is an expedition forgotten by the public buthighly regarded is to stress change. Obligate Pinnipedophagi were we, by those who truly know. Yet John Rymill, our leader, and eaters of seals for man and dog food: we had little else. RY Penola named after his Australian home, should be Amundsen (1912) was totally dog-dependent but used a widely remembered for vigour and success on the ice, and great deal of imported dog food. We were dog-dependent, Bob Ryder (later VC) for great skill in seamanship with so with far more dogs. And we were the only British Antarc- unhandy and small a ship. tic expedition between the wars. We, 16 of us, and our As to our essential or obligate total dependence upon working dogs, more than 80 in total, ate seals: we had no seals for man and dog food, I stress here that being alternative, except for our sledging rations. We were seal- biologist to the expedition, it came to pass that I did most eaters for financial reasons — lack of money. We were of the seal-killing. I soon became adept, and my research poor indeed in the midst of the world economic slump. prospered for I was able personally to measure and collect Seal-meat, baking-powder bread, porridge, and margarine those specimens — skulls, gonads, parasites — dear to the were our staple diet. heart of an eager young zoologist. It was primitive All now is so different. Today no longer under sail, research, I must admit, but so unlikely ever to be repeated Antarctica no longer empty on arrival, no longer wintering in magnitude. a tiny vessel, no longer poverty of resources: then totally Frequent, swift, and substantial changes of plan were dependent upon seals for man and dog food, indeed now no forced upon us throughout the expedition. These arose longer any dogs, and seal-killing is supposedly forbidden. first from the background inadequacy of Penola's engines, Today no longer the absence of personal payment, nor the and then the inevitable paucity of foreknowledge of sea- virtual absence of alcoholic refreshment. So I describe the ice conditions month by month. Astonishing variations in curiosities of us, the educated exploratory poor, 60 years conditions of wind and temperature were compelling too. ago at sea and in the harsh Antarctic environment. Most of all, our new topographical knowledge, some Change advances ever onwards. Research ships now gained from the air, forced upon us changes of plan to are vast, aeroplanes fly direct to Antarctica from New assure maximum mapping of what we were currently Zealand and the tip of South America. Living accommo- discovering. It must be remembered throughout that the dation and laboratories are extensive and remarkably high mountainous nature of Graham Land compelled our equipped, even now for decades at the South Pole itself. explorations to be ship-borne in the narrow coastal chan- Over-snow vehicles can be well-equipped homes and nels in summer and autumn, and by sledge on the perilous laboratories in themselves. National research stations are inshore sea ice in winter and spring. Amid these circum- numerous, and international cooperation happily is great. stances, we were fortunate indeed to return without loss. The 30-year International Antarctic Treaty of 1961 still Our mid-winter escape, over breaking sea ice to Terra extends, and effort in conservation for Antarctica as a Firma Island, was an almost miraculous good fortune world heritage continent is widespread. The politically under most able leadership. But whatever the tumult and dubious status of Antarctica lies seemingly dormant, and, the danger, from climatic and ocean turbulence, we ever happily, economically workable oil and minerals are not had the realisation that these were the forces of nature. We yet proven. The human wintering population exceeds were content in our loneliness; we never had to contend 1000, the summer population of scientists and technicians with the fear of malignant men, so soon to arise in war numbers several thousands. As well, now near 10,000 worldwide. 102 BERTRAM

Fig. 1. Penola with all sails set: a demonstration in perfect calm.

To repeat the original story by John Rymill in 'the effort to increase real knowledge, geographical and other- expedition book,' Southern lights (1938), is obviously wise — and that with success. In our day, Antarctica still inappropriate. Instead I will here rely upon an interesting was empty, although I do not forget the initial work of and full, though short, descriptive article written soon after Admiral Byrd with his huge USA exertions on the other return by three of us scientists, Launcelot Fleming, Brian side of the continent during the latter part of our time in the Roberts, and myself. It represented our best succinct south. endeavour. It is the only such statement to complement the I write here in happy memory of good companions, of specialized papers in the Geographical Journal and else- events and circumstances, hopefully to give interest and a where. So here reprinted, is our 'Three Antarctic years,' as true perspective. And I touch upon some themes not published in the Canadian Geographical Journal (Vol 22; commonly available in official accounts. 1941). These present reflections upon our past have been For convenience of understanding, I have inserted in written over a number of years, not consecutively. Appendix III summaries of the lives and careers of the Here is truth, no exaggeration, no performance of self- participants on the expedition. And here follows a brief imposed courageous feats, but a description of long-term summary of the expedition's work and circumstances. ANTARCTICA SIXTY YEARS AGO 103

Sixty years ago Graham Land was the overall name for the south and to the Weddell Sea. then-known northern stretch of the modern Antarctic Pe- It is believed that more new knowledge (in survey, ninsula. geology, biology, etc) was gained per pound spent than in any other Antarctic expedition before or since. Summary There was little acclaim on return because of no excite- BGLE's primary aim was the basic mapping of the south- ment of public interest by death or disaster and no connec- ern part of the so-called Falkland Islands sector of Antarc- tion with the South Pole, and then the close approach of tica, southward of South America. World War II. All received the Polar Medal. There was Because of shortage of funds, in the period of world real poverty of resources throughout and minimal radio economic slump, the expedition was limited to 16 men in communication with the world, and none on the local the small three-masted wooden topsail schooner Penola. scale. Colour photography was not yet available. This was the last of the old-style expeditions under sail. All The meagre government contribution to the expedition members of the party worked as seamen in the long was provided as encouragement at a time when it was passage south to Cape Horn and onwards south again. This politically expedient to demonstrate British interest in the was the transition, from the heroic period as it has been long-claimed Falkland Islands sector of Antarctica. The called, to modern times. Or was it the tail end of the heroic Royal Geographical Society was generous from its modest period? resources. The£1000 granted in 1934, after allowance for The expedition worked three summers and two winters inflation, was, it is believed, the largest grant ever given to continuously in Antarctica. It was the most dog-oriented a single expedition. expedition ever, with almost a hundred working dogs, so The Deception Island whaling station, the farthest exceeding in number Amundsen's successful teams that south, was already closed, but whaling remained in full reached the South Pole. It is now, recently, illegal to keep force at South Georgia, and open-ocean pelagic whaling dogs in Antarctica. was beginning. There was the first successful use in Antarctica of a Our evolution in sledging techniques was the basis of light aircraft flying alternatively off skis or floats. By the following war-time Operation Tabarin, the Falkland travel, largely on the sea ice, the peninsularity of the for- Islands Dependencies Survey, the Fuchs trans-Antarctic merly believed Antarctic Archipelago was demonstrated. success, and the on-running British Antarctic Survey. Of prime importance was the discovery of King George VI The British Graham Land Expedition 1934-1937, how- Sound. ever little and wrongly appreciated, was John RymiU's The expedition worked on very restricted financial triumph in the exploration of an unknown area, and the resources, so that the total cost, including the ship, was less increase of knowledge. It had no element of great drama, than half a million pounds in modern money. The basic but yes, it was full of adventure and danger. Here I attempt diet of both men and dogs was local seal-meat, so cheaply to provide true perspective. 'living off the country' as 'Obligate Pinnipedophagi.' Also at last we can welcome a full biography of John Penola wintered the first year frozen in. For the second Rymill — Arctic and Antarctic: the will and the way of winter she sailed north to South Georgia for refit, while the John Riddoch Rymill — from the pen of the veteran and shore-party of nine men made long sledge journeys to the notable Australian explorer, John Bechervaise.