'From Flax to Linen. Experiments with Flax at Ribe Viking Centre' As PDF
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FROM FLAX TO LINEN Experiments with flax at Ribe Viking Centre Bo Ejstrud Stina Andresen Amanda Appel Sara Gjerlevsen Birgit Thomsen Edited by Bo Ejstrud FROM FLAX TO LINEN Experiments with flax at Ribe Viking Centre Bo Ejstrud Stina Andresen Amanda Appel Sara Gjerlevsen Birgit Thomsen Edited by Bo Ejstrud Ribe Viking Centre & University of Southern Denmark Esbjerg - 2011 Bo Ejstrud, Stina Andresen, Amanda Appel, Sara Gjerlevsen, Birgit Thomsen: From Flax to Linen - experiments with flax at Ribe Viking Centre Maritime Archaeology Programme University of Southern Denmark www.sdu.dk/maritimearchaeology © The authors Edited by Bo Ejstrud Print: Print & Sign, University of Southern Denmark ISBN: 978-87-992214-6-2 Published by: Maritime Archaeology Programme University of Southern Denmark Niels Bohrs Vej 9-10 DK-6700 Esbjerg Denmark Printed in Denmark 2011 FOREWORD After more than 15 years of working experience with Viking Age crafts, the staff at Ribe Viking Centre has built up a vast knowledge on the tools and processes that was part of daily life a thousand years ago. In order to consolidate and document this knowledge the Centre approached me proposing a joint project between the Centre and the University of Southern Denmark. We decided to focus on flax and linen in 2010. The group of authors consists of Birgit Thomsen from Ribe Viking Centre, and from the University I participated together with students Amanda Appel and Sara Gjerlevsen. In fact the students did much of the practical work together with Birgit Thomsen, and were responsible for describing the results in this report. Later we were fortunate to have Stina Andresen, archaeologist and curator at Varde Museum, joining the project. The subject of her master thesis was exactly flax during the Iron and Viking Ages (Andresen 2005), and Stina contributed much valuable knowledge to the project, not least on the archaeology of flax processing. It was a very inspiring collaboration for all parties involved. In following the entire process from seed to shirt, the project ended up being the most comprehensive that we have been able to find in the literature, although this was never a goal in itself. The archaeology programme, which is taught at the University of Southern Denmark, is in maritime archaeology. One may wonder why we engage in an experimental project on flax. To this we can say that although our students are well-read in maritime aspects of past societies, they are trained foremost as archaeologists. This means that their future jobs are not limited to wreck diving, but that they can take on broader aspects of the profession. We teach a master programme, and the students enter with a range of undergraduate degrees from around the world. Therefore it was natural for us to go into this project. On the maritime aspect of archaeology we have at least gained valuable insight, and a new found respect, on sail making through this work. One main lesson from the project is perhaps that the historical visitor centres, such as Ribe Viking Centre, have a vast practical experience and knowledge, which is important to archaeology, but that it is rarely utilized in a more controlled setting. Flax has been grown annually at the Centre for more than 15 years. With this report we have been able to document some of the experience gained at the Centre, and also to put that experience into the context and perspective of professional archaeology. Not least in that respect it has been an edifying project to participate in. With the enthusiasm of the participants and the inspiring setting the work was conducted it, it was even fun. Esbjerg, 24 January 2011 Bo Ejstrud Associate professor, PhD University of Southern Denmark 1 CONTENT 1. INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................................... 5 The project ................................................................................................................................... 6 The Viborg shirt ........................................................................................................................... 6 Flax .............................................................................................................................................. 8 From flax to linen ..................................................................................................................... 9 Project design ............................................................................................................................. 12 Structure of this report ........................................................................................................... 13 Is time of the essence? ........................................................................................................... 14 Experiment and experience .................................................................................................... 15 2. FLAX DURING THE VIKING AGE .............................................................................................. 17 Flax before the Vikings .............................................................................................................. 17 Danish finds ........................................................................................................................... 18 Viking Age textiles .................................................................................................................... 19 Danish finds ........................................................................................................................... 19 Towns ..................................................................................................................................... 20 Production sites .......................................................................................................................... 21 Næs ........................................................................................................................................ 21 Parallels .................................................................................................................................. 23 Århus ...................................................................................................................................... 25 Discussion .............................................................................................................................. 26 Tools .......................................................................................................................................... 26 Rippling.................................................................................................................................. 27 Breaking ................................................................................................................................. 27 Scutching................................................................................................................................ 28 Heckling ................................................................................................................................. 28 Spinning ................................................................................................................................. 29 Weaving ................................................................................................................................. 30 Other tools .............................................................................................................................. 31 3. FIELD EXPERIMENTS ................................................................................................................ 33 Growing flax .............................................................................................................................. 33 The fields ................................................................................................................................... 33 Weather conditions .................................................................................................................... 35 Sowing and weeding .................................................................................................................. 36 Growth ....................................................................................................................................... 37 Harvesting .................................................................................................................................. 38 Drying ........................................................................................................................................ 40 Rippling ..................................................................................................................................... 41 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................. 43 4. FROM PLANT TO YARN ............................................................................................................. 47 Retting ........................................................................................................................................ 47 The experiments ..................................................................................................................... 49 Discussion .............................................................................................................................