Ha Noi in brief

d o p h u h u n g 08 03 2015 book cover photo editor Michael Waibel

sponsors is situated in the head of ’s Red River delta. The city-province is bordered by the provinces of Thai Nguyen to the north, Bac Ninh and Hung Yen to the east, Vinh Phuc to the south, and Phu Tho and Hoa Binh to the west

Hanoi’s territories lies within the low floodplain of the Red River, historically a site of intensive wet rice agriculture. The remaining area is part of Soc Son District (to the north), which is somewhat mountainous and hilly

Ref. Facing the urban transition in Hanoi: recent urban planning issues and initiatives – Author: Danielle Labbé – 2010 - Institut national de la recherche scientifique Centre - Urbanisation Culture Société https://www.google.com/ http://httt.qhkthn.gov.vn/ maps/ geditor.aspx?mapid @21.10406,105.9006786,11z As the nation’s capital city and second largest agglomeration after , Hanoi is one of the key sites of this urban transition.

Ref. Facing the urban transition in Hanoi: recent urban planning issues and initiatives – Author: Danielle Labbé – 2010 - Institut national de la recherche scientifique Centre - Urbanisation Culture Société http://i0.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp- Sword Lake, Photo: content/uploads/ Charles Peyrin, 1918 2015/02/5070368151_65276df0d0_ o.jpg?resize=620%2C396 In 1010, the emperor Ly Thai To built a citadel and established the capital of his empire on the right bank of the Red River. Progressively, a small trade area developed next to the imperial city that is now referred to as the “Old Quarter”

Pho Hang Dao- 1940 http://i1.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp- http://i2.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp-content/ content/uploads/2015/02/Color- uploads/ Photos-of-Vietnam-in-1915-1.jpg 2015/02/5116833846_f1bf3aea8c_o.jpg? resize=620%2C420

photo: Harrison Foreman

Lake side train, Photo: Charles Peyrin, 1954 http://i2.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp- Sword Lake surroundings - 1969 content/uploads/ Image: David Alan Harley 2015/02/83899003.jpg? http://mannup.vn/100-nam-mien-bac-viet-nam-qua-anh/ resize=620%2C414 Throughout the following eight centuries, the city developed slowly due to state control of trade and a succession of tumultuous wars between competing dynasties. By the time the French settled in the city, in 1874, Hanoi was a relatively small agglomeration of less than 100,000 people. [Danielle Labbé – 2010] http://i2.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp- Ha Noi- 2004 content/uploads/ Image: David Alan Harley 2015/02/83899006.jpg? http://mannup.vn/100-nam-mien-bac-viet-nam-qua-anh/ resize=620%2C414Socio-spatially, Ha Noi consisted of a combination of three distinct spaces: a citadel, a merchant quarter, and an agglomeration of rural villages surrounded by a dike (Logan 2000; Papin 2001). from Photo Book open space the photo book collects images depicting a city with many historical transport layers, showing preserved apartment traditional and colonial heritages and its vibrant rise to a megacity villa town housing varies of housing typology during development from Photo Book In the Pre-Thang Long period,The ancient Hanoi, with Co Loa capital, started to enter the Vietnamese history as a national socio-political centre

http://en.hanoi.vietnamplus.vn/ from Photo Book THANG LONG UNDER THE LY DYNASTY (1009-1225) In 1010, King Ly Thai To decided to relocate the capital from Hoa Lu (Ninh Binh) to Dai La citadel (belonging to present-day Hanoi) – a land with a terrain of “rolling dragon and sitting tiger”. Thang Long (Flying Dragon) capital city was built into two separate areas: the Royal Enclosure with royal palaces and the Court Hall, and the civil area where inhabitants lived and were grouped into craft guilds.

http://en.hanoi.vietnamplus.vn/ from Photo Book The capital was surrounded by an earth rampart expanded from the dykes of three rivers: the Red River to the east, the To River to the north and the west, and the Kim Nguu River to the south. It was the biggest rampart work of the feudal dynasties in Vietnam

In the Ly dynasty, Thang Long capital actually became the largest and most typical political, economic and cultural centre of the country. The era of the Dai Viet civilisation was ushered from then on

http://en.hanoi.vietnamplus.vn/ http://i2.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp- content/uploads/ 2015/02/61430125.jpg? resize=620%2C372 Phuc Xa village, Long Bien - 1968 Source: http://mannup.vn/100-nam- mien-bac-viet-nam-qua-anh/

Hanoi was the capital of French Indochina from 1902 to 1953, during which time it remained a modest city both in size and population, never exceeding 400,000 inhabitants (Wright 1991). Yet French planners greatly transformed the appearance and functioning of the city. Rue de Paul Bert - http://i1.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp- Rue des http://i0.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp- 1914 content/uploads/2015/02/Color- Ferblamciers- 1915 content/uploads/2015/02/ Photos-of-Vietnam-in-1915-1.jpg tumblr_n8p5hvxOia1twag8to1_1280. http://i1.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp- jpg?resize=620%2C438 content/uploads/2015/02/ HanoiPontDoumer.jpg? Longresize=620%2C438 Bien bridge (Paul Up to the end of the 19th century, colonial Doumer) – 1898-1902 authorities expanded the city area toward the south and west. There, they developed a new area with broad avenues which, organized in a grid system and flanked by spacious villas and gardens, is now referred to as the “Colonial Quarter.” The French also developed major infrastructures and facilities, including the Long Bien Bridge, a railway and train http://mannup.vn/100-nam-mien-bac-viet-nam-qua-anh/ station, a post office, and an opera house. Grand Theatre- 1940 photo: Harrison http://i0.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp-content/ Foreman uploads/ 2015/02/12626449043_78198f8a8d_h.j pg?resize=620%2C366

In 1946, the Democratic Republic of Vietnam (DRV) took power and declared Hanoi its capital. The newly independent nation went through the First Indochina War (1945-1954), followed by the (1962-1975). Big Theatre- 2013 The government policy of deurbanization or dispersal of the population and industries away from Hanoi during the wars limited both the physical and demographic growth of the city (Nguyên Duc Nhuan 1978). Pho Hang Gai - 1915 http://i0.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp- Pho Hang Dao- http://i2.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp- content/uploads/ 1920 content/uploads/ 2015/02/6139130792_c75d6ce2dd 2015/02/8088933137_89572a3f66 _o.jpg?resize=620%2C444 _o.jpg?resize=620%2C439

Pho Hang Dong- Rue du Cuivres 1915 http://i2.wp.com/ mannup.vn/wp- content/uploads/ 2015/02/1172153584 6_66a5d287d9_h.jpg ?resize=620%2C243

http://mannup.vn/ 100-nam-mien-bac- viet-nam-qua-anh/ Image: QUYNH HOA, TA - Faculty of Architecture and Urban planning, University of Civil Engineering; THUY LOAN, PHAM - Faculty of Architecture and Urban planning, University of Civil Engineering

Image of Hang Buom St. before and after installing unified pent-roof system.

before and after http://mannup.vn/100-nam-mien-bac-viet-nam-qua-anh/ http://i0.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp- Pho Hang Khoai – Dong Xuan content/uploads/ market Potatoes street- 1915 2015/02/5071044818_01d8c8f59c _o.jpg?resize=620%2C393

by 1965, Hanoi’s total population had reached one million. The city was not to exceed this figure for several decades, for two main reasons: continued control on rural to urban migration, and economic hardship of the 1980s (Thrift and Forbes 1986)

In the early 1990s, after the launch of a set of policies known as the “Doi Moi” (renovation) policies, urban population increased substantially. From then on, the city’s population grew at an annual rate of approximately 3% to reach 3.2 million by 2007.

Ha Noi railway station – 1921-1935 http://i0.wp.com/mannup.vn/wp-content/ uploads/ 2015/02/5444695172_2fc9d02697_o.jpg? resize=620%2C437 from Photo Book

Succeeding the Ly dynasty, the Tran ended the chaos and restored the socio-political order. Thang Long was still the national capital. As it was continuously destroyed by warfare between the imperial political factions at the end of the Ly dynasty, especially in the three Mongol-Yuan invasions (in 1258, 1285 and 1288), the Tran dynasty almost took advantage of the previous constructions and further restored and extended them: in 1230, Dai La citadel and some palaces were repaired; in 1243, the Forbidden City (which was later called Phung Thanh) was rebuilt; and in 1253, Quoc Tu Giam was restored. [http://en.hanoi.vietnamplus.vn/] Having been re-organised into 61 districts with higher population density and concentrated on the civilian settlement, Thang Long was more obviously a city with a rapid development of streets, markets and handicraft villages. Many foreign traders came here to earn a living, including the Chinese, Uigurian and Javanese … The Dai Viet civilisation continued developing. [[http://en.hanoi.vietnamplus.vn/] https://www.facebook.com/hanoiloverscom/photos/a. Facebook group Hanoi Lovers 568430349871417.1073741828.567675493280236/79738262364285 4/?type=1 Hanoi's Old Quarter from the 1950s from Photo Book In terms of population, Hanoi still comes just after HCMC (6.8 million) but the city is now far ahead of Hải Phòng (1.8 million) and Đà Nẵng (822,000). Although encompassing less densely settled areas, Hanoi’s population density has now reached an average of 1,926 persons per km2. (HSO 2009). from Photo Book Most of this new population consisted of rural migrants from surrounding provinces, with natural growth playing only a minor role in the population increase. (Ledent 2002; Gubry et al. 2002). from Photo Book

The so-called “New Hanoi” is expected to become a centre of politics, education, science, economics, and international exchanges. The new territory is expected to contribute to the economic and functional development of the city by encouraging investment, including official development aid (ODA) and foreign direct investment (FDI), and by allowing the expansion and modernization of the region’s infrastructure network. The new territory is also expected to help accommodate the city’s demographic growth and distribute the population outside of the overcrowded urban core. (VET 2008). from Photo Book

Hanoi’s administrative boundaries were redrawn several times throughout the 20th century. Among the major changes was the large territorial expansion of the province in 1978 to encompass over 3,000 km2 (Rossi and Pham Van Cu 2002: 314-17). (Danielle Labbé; 2010).

The boundaries of the province were then redrawn in 1991 around a smaller territory of 900 km2. Thereafter, most of the administrative territorial changes consisted of attributing an urban status to parts of rural districts peripheral to the city (Quertamp 2003: 86-93). (Danielle Labbé; 2010). Hanoi’s economy is growing steadily. The city’s GDP expanded three-fold between 2000 and 2008 (HSO 2009: 65). While Hanoi is only home to 7% of Vietnam’s population, it contributes 12.5% of the national GDP (1/2 of HCMc); (Danielle Labbé; 2010).

Rhymth - Repetition from Photo Book from Photo Book

behind the facade

Rhymth - Repetition from Photo Book from Photo Book daily activities from Photo Book Since the end of 1986, the capital entered a new stage full of challenges and opportunities as it shifted from a State-subsidised to a market-oriented economy. As a result, in the last decade of the 20th century, Hanoi’s economy overcame the recession and recorded a continual growth in all sectors. In 1999, Hanoi was awarded the title “The City of Peace” by the UNESCO and chosen as a venue for launching the “International Peace Year – 2000”. [http:// en.hanoi.vietnamplus.vn/] The protection of architectural heritage in central Hanoi has a long history. The roots of this movement can be traced back to the beginning of the 20th century when the French started to identify and catalogue remarkable monuments on the Indochinese peninsula (Nishimura 1997).

While concerns for the built heritage faded during wartimes and throughout the subsidy era3, it revived again in the early 1990s. Following the reopening of Vietnam’s borders to foreign visitors, Hanoi revealed to the rest of the world one of the best preserved cities of Southeast Asia (Danielle Labbé; 2010). The city’s architectural and urban heritage combines exceptional monuments and compounds such as pagodas, temples, the citadel, and government buildings scattered through the urban fabric. (Pham Dinh Viêt 1997). Hanoi also displays exceptional urban ensembles. The core of the city consists of a traditional merchant quarter dating back to feudal times. This area is characterized by an organic network of narrow streets lined with traditional shophouses (D. Labbé, 2004; Pham Dinh Viêt 1997). Hanoi’s urban fabric further includes a myriad of erstwhile rural villages now engulfed into the urban fabric. The city is also characterized by a unique natural environment with numerous rivers and lakes, treelined streets, and parks. (D. Labbé, 2010; Hàng Dư án street, 2012 Beautiful building from period, Hang Da market, 2012; © Michael Waibel

Building from French colonial period after renovation, 2014; © Michael Waibel preservation projects set out with a relatively narrow focus on architectural preservation but progressively embraced wider concerns about tradition, including the preservation of immaterial heritages such as traditional economic activities and lifestyles. (D. Labbé, 2010). traditional Bat Trang potery product traditional Bat Trang potery product Ha Noi periphery with traditional craftsman and farming village

restrospective while perspective presevation and development stories historical urban values

due to urban expansion over farming and craftsman village surrounding Ha Noi, further consideration should be paid for a more sustainable city development

traditional Bat Trang potery product thank you for your listening

Excerpt from greeting of the Director of Goethe Institute Vietnam, Dr. Almuth Meyer-Zollitsch Welcome to Ho Chi Minh City, the vibrant economic metropolis and biggest city of Vietnam, which recently emerged as the country’s first mega city. Now, Ho Chi Minh City stands head to head with other mega cities such as New Dehli, São Paulo or Mexico City. Ho Chi Minh City is rapidly changing against the backdrop of globalization, but has preserved an almost rural character in many of its small alleys. For many people, the mega city is a place of hope for a better future, a small share of new welfare. Can these dreams be fulfilled if the number of inhabitants continues to rise by millions and climate change is flooding entire city districts? This book invites the reader on a journey through the familiar and lesser-known aspects of this fascinating city to witness its vibrancy and dynamism. Allow yourself to be taken by endless stream of traffic, which while chaotic, barrels forward, just like the city of Ho Chi Minh itself.