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Wall Free Climb in the World by Tommy Caldwell
FREE PASSAGE Finding the path of least resistance means climbing the hardest big- wall free climb in the world By Tommy Caldwell Obsession is like an illness. At first you don't realize anything is happening. But then the pain grows in your gut, like something is shredding your insides. Suddenly, the only thing that matters is beating it. You’ll do whatever it takes; spend all of your time, money and energy trying to overcome. Over months, even years, the obsession eats away at you. Then one day you look in the mirror, see the sunken cheeks and protruding ribs, and realize the toll taken. My obsession is a 3,000-foot chunk of granite, El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. As a teenager, I was first lured to El Cap because I could drive my van right up to the base of North America’s grandest wall and start climbing. I grew up a clumsy kid with bad hand-eye coordination, yet here on El Cap I felt as though I had stumbled into a world where I thrived. Being up on those steep walls demanded the right amount of climbing skill, pain tolerance and sheer bull-headedness that came naturally to me. For the last decade El Cap has beaten the crap out of me, yet I return to scour its monstrous walls to find the tiniest holds that will just barely go free. So far I have dedicated a third of my life to free climbing these soaring cracks and razor-sharp crimpers. Getting to the top is no longer important. -
The Dawn Wall
AAC Publications The Dawn Wall The Long Struggle For The World's Hardest Big-Wall Free Climb Standing at the base of the Dawn Wall on December 27, 2014, I attempt to break the nervous tension. “It’s the low-pressure push,” I say with a grin. I know it’s bullshit. Once we start, we’re going to the top. “One pitch at a time,” Tommy responds. I nod and start climbing. Six years earlier, I was sitting on top of a 55-foot boulder at the Buttermilks in Bishop, California. Just a few moments before, I’d been 45 feet off the deck, ropeless, on my most ambitious highball first ascent to date. For the past two years, I’d constantly put myself in positions like this. I was obsessed with pushing the standards of highball bouldering, rolling the dice with each sketchy first ascent. Ambrosia pushed the bar even higher, not just blurring the lines between highball and solo but crossing it. To continue meant becoming a free soloist, and I was unwilling. Not only did I need a new project, I needed a new discipline of the sport. The climbing film Progression, released in late summer of 2009, featured both Ambrosia and Tommy Caldwell’s new big-wall free climbing project. When I saw the closing scene of Tommy’s segment, I heard an invitation: “I look at this next generation of climbers doing things on the boulders and sport climbs that I can’t conceive of. If they could apply that kind of talent to the big walls, that’s what it would take to free climb this project. -
Marvel Studios
Marvel Studios “Doctor Strange” Benedict Cumberbatch Chiwetel Ejiofor Rachel McAdams Benedict Wong Michael Stuhlbarg Benjamin Bratt e Scott Adkins con Mads Mikkelsen e Tilda Swinton Regia di Scott Derrickson Prodotto da Kevin Feige Produttori esecutivi Louis D’Esposito, Stephen Broussard, Victoria Alonso, Charles Newirth e Stan Lee Sceneggiatura di Jon Spaihts e Scott Derrickson & C. Robert Cargill Trailer ufficiale in italiano https://youtu.be/MnhDI8Qktuo Social Network http://fb.com/DoctorStrangeIT http://twitter.com/MarvelNewsIT Hashtag #DoctorStrangeIT #ShareYourPowers Data di uscita: 26 ottobre 2016 Durata: 115 min Distribuzione: The Walt Disney Company Italia Materiali stampa: www.image.net Marvel Studios presentano Doctor Strange, la storia del dottor Stephen Strange, il Signore delle Arti Mistiche apparso per la prima volta sulle pagine dei fumetti Marvel nel 1963. I Con l’introduzione di questo supereroe unico nel suo genere, dotato di straordinari poteri magici, l’Universo Cinematografico Marvel apre le porte a nuove e incredibili storie piene di azione e di mistero. Come spiega il produttore Kevin Feige, “nell’Universo Cinematografico Marvel ci sono numerosi film ambientati in contesti urbani: si tratta di storie ‘a misura d’uomo’ per così dire. E poi c’è il livello cosmico, che abbiamo esplorato in film come Thor, Guardiani della Galassia e The Avengers. Ma nei fumetti Marvel c’è anche un lato soprannaturale molto importante, che non avevamo ancora esplorato al cinema. Doctor Strange è il film ideale per entrare finalmente in quel reame”. “Doctor Strange parla di dimensioni parallele e dimensioni alternative, e del multiverso: per noi, quest’ultimo elemento aprirà una serie infinita di nuove possibilità narrative. -
The American Alpine Club Guidebook to Membership Alpinist Magazine
THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP ALPINIST MAGAZINE ith each print edition of Alpinist, we aim to create a work of art, paying attention to every detail— from our extended photo captions to our carefully Wselected images and well-crafted stories. Inside our pages, we strive to offer our readers an experience like that of exploratory climbing, a realm of words and images where they can wander, discover surprising new viewpoints, and encounter moments of excitement, humor, awe and beauty. By publishing the work of climbers from a wide range of ages, technical abilities, nations and cultures—united by their passion for adventure and wild places—we hope to reflect and enhance the sense of community within the climbing life. Over time, back issues have become collectors’ items, serving as historical references and ongoing inspirations. Like our readers, we believe that great writing and art about climbing demand the same boldness, commitment and vision as the pursuit itself. JOIN US. Exclusive AAC Member Pricing 1 Year - $29.95 | 2 Years - $54.95 Alpinist.com/AAC ALPINIST IS A PROUD PARTNER OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB Stay Connected! @AlpinistMag @Alpinist @AlpinistMag ALP_2019_AAC Ad FIN.indd 1 6/26/19 4:14 PM WELCOME, ALL 5 You Belong Here ARTIST SPOTLIGHT 8 Brooklyn Bell on Art for the In-betweens MEMBERSHIP THROUGH THE LENS 10 Inspiration, Delivered Directly NAVAJO RISING 23 An Indigenous Emergence Story WHEN WOMEN LEAD 27 Single Pitch Instructors for the 21st Century GLACIAL VIEWS 29 A Climate Scientist Reflects & Other Research Stories CLIMBERS FOR CLIMATE 32 Taking a Stand on Climate Change, Together 1CLIMB, INFINITE POTENTIAL 34 Kevin Jorgeson Breaks Down Walls by Building Them ON PUSHING 37 24 Hours Into the Black, the AAC Grief Fund AN ODE TO MOBILITY 40 The Range of Motion Project Tackles Cotopaxi YOSEMITE'S CAMP 4 43 The Center of the Climbing Universe REWIND THE CLIMB 47 The Tragedy of the 1932 American K2 Expedition BETA 48 Everything a Club Member Needs to Know PARTING SHOT 72 Jeremiah Watt on Travel & Life a Greg Kerzhner climbing Mr. -
89Th Oscars® Nominations Announced
MEDIA CONTACT Academy Publicity [email protected] January 24, 2017 FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Editor’s Note: Nominations press kit and video content available here 89TH OSCARS® NOMINATIONS ANNOUNCED LOS ANGELES, CA — Academy President Cheryl Boone Isaacs, joined by Oscar®-winning and nominated Academy members Demian Bichir, Dustin Lance Black, Glenn Close, Guillermo del Toro, Marcia Gay Harden, Terrence Howard, Jennifer Hudson, Brie Larson, Jason Reitman, Gabourey Sidibe and Ken Watanabe, announced the 89th Academy Awards® nominations today (January 24). This year’s nominations were announced in a pre-taped video package at 5:18 a.m. PT via a global live stream on Oscar.com, Oscars.org and the Academy’s digital platforms; a satellite feed and broadcast media. In keeping with tradition, PwC delivered the Oscars nominations list to the Academy on the evening of January 23. For a complete list of nominees, visit the official Oscars website, www.oscar.com. Academy members from each of the 17 branches vote to determine the nominees in their respective categories – actors nominate actors, film editors nominate film editors, etc. In the Animated Feature Film and Foreign Language Film categories, nominees are selected by a vote of multi-branch screening committees. All voting members are eligible to select the Best Picture nominees. Active members of the Academy are eligible to vote for the winners in all 24 categories beginning Monday, February 13 through Tuesday, February 21. To access the complete nominations press kit, visit www.oscars.org/press/press-kits. The 89th Oscars will be held on Sunday, February 26, 2017, at the Dolby Theatre® at Hollywood & Highland Center® in Hollywood, and will be televised live on the ABC Television Network at 7 p.m. -
Nominations by Film and Distributor
EE BRITISH ACADEMY FILM AWARDS IN 2015 NOMINATIONS BY FILM/DISTRIBUTOR BY FILM (40 films) ‘71 2 Into the Woods 2 20 Feet From Stardom 1 Kajaki: The True Story 1 20,000 Days on Earth 1 The Lego Movie 1 American Sniper 2 Leviathan 1 Big Eyes 2 Lilting 1 Big Hero 6 1 The Lunchbox 1 Birdman 10 Mr. Turner 4 The Boxtrolls 1 Nightcrawler 4 Boyhood 5 Northern Soul 1 Citzenfour 1 Paddington 2 Dawn of the Planet of the Apes 1 Pride 3 Finding Vivian Maier 1 Still Alice 1 Foxcatcher 2 The Theory of Everything 10 Gone Girl 2 Trash 1 The Grand Budapest Hotel 11 Two Days, One Night 1 Guardians of the Galaxy 2 Under the Skin 2 The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies 1 Virunga 1 Ida 2 Whiplash 5 The Imitation Game 9 Wild 1 Interstellar 4 X-Men:Days of Future Past 1 BY DISTRIBUTOR Alchemy (1) Soda Pictures (1) Kajaki: The True Story 1 Finding Vivian Maier 1 Altitude (1) Sony Pictures (5) 20 Feet From Stardom 1 Whiplash 5 Artificial Eye (8) Studio Canal (15) Citizenfour 1 ‘71 2 Ida 2 The Imitation Game 9 Leviathan 1 Paddington 2 Lilting 1 Under the Skin 2 The Lunchbox 1 Twentieth Century Fox (26) Still Alice 1 Birdman 10 Two Days, One Night 1 Dawn of the Planet of the Apes 1 Disney (5) Gone Girl 2 Big Hero 6 1 The Grand Budapest Hotel 11 Guardians of the Galaxy 2 Wild 1 Into the Woods 2 X-Men: Days of Future Past 1 Entertainment Film (2) Universal (17) Big Eyes 2 The Boxtrolls 1 Entertainment One (10) Boyhood 5 Foxcatcher 2 The Theory of Everything 10 Mr. -
King Arthur Nophotos2
THIS MATERIAL IS ALSO AVAILABLE ONLINE AT kingarthurmovie.com ©Touchstone Pictures’/Jerry Bruckheimer Films’ http://www.bvpublicity.com Touchstone Pictures’/Jerry Bruckheimer Films’ FILMMAKERS Directed by . ANTOINE FUQUA “KING ARTHUR” Written by . DAVID FRANZONI Produced by . JERRY BRUCKHEIMER CAST Executive Producers . MIKE STENSON CHAD OMAN Arthur . CLIVE OWEN NED DOWD Lancelot . IOAN GRUFFUDD Director of Photography . SLAWOMIR IDZIAK Tristan. MADS MIKKELSEN Production Designer . DAN WEIL Gawain . JOEL EDGERTON Edited by . CONRAD BUFF, A.C.E. Galahad . HUGH DANCY JAMIE PEARSON Bors. RAY WINSTONE Costume Designer . PENNY ROSE Dagonet . RAY STEVENSON Music by. HANS ZIMMER Guinevere. KEIRA KNIGHTLEY Casting by. RONNA KRESS, C.S.A. Merlin . STEPHEN DILLANE MICHELLE GUISH Cerdic . STELLAN SKARSGÅRD Cynric. TIL SCHWEIGER Unit Production Managers . HOWARD GIBBINS Jols . SEAN GILDER SEAMUS MCINERNEY Horton . PAT KINEVANE Bishop Germanius. IVANO MARESCOTTI First Assistant Director. BRUCE MORIARTY Marius Honorius . KEN STOTT Alecto . LORENZO DE ANGELIS Second Assistant Director. KAREN RICHARDS Fulcinia . STEFANIA ORSOLA GARELLO Special Effects Coordinator . NEIL CORBOULD British Scout . ALAN DEVINE Associate Producers . PAT SANDSTON Ganis . CHARLIE CREED-MILES MORGAN O’SULLIVAN Lucan. JOHNNY BRENNAN JAMES FLYNN Merlin’s Lieutenant . DAVID MURRAY PAUL TUCKER Mental Monk. NED DENNEHY Obnoxious Monk. PHELIM DREW Stunt Coordinator . STEVE DENT Third Monk . DES BRAIDEN Sword Master . MARK RYAN Cerdic Scout . MALACHY MCKENNA Stunts Department Cerdic Officers . BRIAN MCGUINNESS Coordinator. MATTHEW SAMPSON PATRICK LEECH Irish Stunt Arranger . JOE CONDREN Bishop Decoy . BOSCO HOGAN Woad (Killed by Lancelot). DAVID WILMOT STUNTS Roman Commander . LOCHLANN O’MEARAIN Young Lancelot Double . RYAN QUAYLE Mercenaries . PAUL MCGLINCHEY DESSIE GALLAGHER CARLO ANTONIONI GEORGE BRANCHE Arthur’s Mother . MARIA GLADKOWSKA BRUCE CAIN NICKOLAS CHOPPING Young Arthur . -
89Th ACADEMY AWARDS® BALLOT
89th ACADEMY AWARDS® BALLOT Check out live results during the IMDb LIVE Viewing Party, an Academy Awards companion show, at 5 p.m. Feb. 26 on IMDb.com. Name ¨ B BEST ACHIEVEMENT BEST ACHIEVEMENT The Lobster 14 20 Yorgos Lanthimos and Efthymis Filippou IN COSTUME DESIGN IN VISUAL EFFECTS ¨ Manchester by the Sea ¨ Allied ¨ Deepwater Horizon Total Correct Kenneth Lonergan Joanna Johnston Craig Hammack, Jason H. Snell, ¨ 20th Century Women ¨ Fantastic Beasts and Jason Billington and Burt Dalton /24 Mike Mills Where to Find Them ¨ Doctor Strange Colleen Atwood Stephane Ceretti, Richard Bluff, BEST ADAPTED ¨ Florence Foster Jenkins Vincent Cirelli and Paul Corbould BEST MOTION PICTURE 08 01 Consolata Boyle ¨ OF THE YEAR SCREENPLAY The Jungle Book Robert Legato, Adam Valdez, ¨ Arrival ¨ Jackie ¨ Arrival Madeline Fontaine Andrew R. Jones and Dan Lemmon Shawn Levy, Dan Levine, Aaron Ryder Eric Heisserer ¨ La La Land ¨ Kubo and the Two Strings and David Linde ¨ Fences Mary Zophres Steve Emerson, Oliver Jones, Brian McLean ¨ August Wilson Fences and Brad Schiff Todd Black, Scott Rudin and Denzel Washington ¨ Hidden Figures Allison Schroeder and Theodore Melfi BEST ACHIEVEMENT IN ¨ Rogue One ¨ Hacksaw Ridge 15 John Knoll, Mohen Leo, Hal T. Hickel and ¨ Lion MAKEUP AND HAIRSTYLING Bill Mechanic and David Permut Neil Corbould Luke Davies ¨ ¨ Hell or High Water A Man Called Ove ¨ Moonlight Eva Von Bahr and Love Larson Carla Hacken and Julie Yorn BEST DOCUMENTARY Barry Jenkins and Tarell Alvin McCraney ¨ Star Trek Beyond 21 ¨ Hidden Figures FEATURE Peter -
PRESS Graphic Designer
© 2021 MARVEL CAST Natasha Romanoff /Black Widow . SCARLETT JOHANSSON Yelena Belova . .FLORENCE PUGH Melina . RACHEL WEISZ Alexei . .DAVID HARBOUR Dreykov . .RAY WINSTONE Young Natasha . .EVER ANDERSON MARVEL STUDIOS Young Yelena . .VIOLET MCGRAW presents Mason . O-T FAGBENLE Secretary Ross . .WILLIAM HURT Antonia/Taskmaster . OLGA KURYLENKO Young Antonia . RYAN KIERA ARMSTRONG Lerato . .LIANI SAMUEL Oksana . .MICHELLE LEE Scientist Morocco 1 . .LEWIS YOUNG Scientist Morocco 2 . CC SMIFF Ingrid . NANNA BLONDELL Widows . SIMONA ZIVKOVSKA ERIN JAMESON SHAINA WEST YOLANDA LYNES Directed by . .CATE SHORTLAND CLAUDIA HEINZ Screenplay by . ERIC PEARSON FATOU BAH Story by . JAC SCHAEFFER JADE MA and NED BENSON JADE XU Produced by . KEVIN FEIGE, p.g.a. LUCY JAYNE MURRAY Executive Producer . LOUIS D’ESPOSITO LUCY CORK Executive Producer . VICTORIA ALONSO ENIKO FULOP Executive Producer . BRAD WINDERBAUM LAUREN OKADIGBO Executive Producer . .NIGEL GOSTELOW AURELIA AGEL Executive Producer . SCARLETT JOHANSSON ZHANE SAMUELS Co-Producer . BRIAN CHAPEK SHAWARAH BATTLES Co-Producer . MITCH BELL TABBY BOND Based on the MADELEINE NICHOLLS MARVEL COMICS YASMIN RILEY Director of Photography . .GABRIEL BERISTAIN, ASC FIONA GRIFFITHS Production Designer . CHARLES WOOD GEORGIA CURTIS Edited by . LEIGH FOLSOM BOYD, ACE SVETLANA CONSTANTINE MATTHEW SCHMIDT IONE BUTLER Costume Designer . JANY TEMIME AUBREY CLELAND Visual Eff ects Supervisor . GEOFFREY BAUMANN Ross Lieutenant . KURT YUE Music by . LORNE BALFE Ohio Agent . DOUG ROBSON Music Supervisor . DAVE JORDAN Budapest Clerk . .ZOLTAN NAGY Casting by . SARAH HALLEY FINN, CSA Man In BMW . .MARCEL DORIAN Second Unit Director . DARRIN PRESCOTT Mechanic . .LIRAN NATHAN Unit Production Manager . SIOBHAN LYONS Mechanic’s Wife . JUDIT VARGA-SZATHMARY First Assistant Director/ Mechanic’s Child . .NOEL KRISZTIAN KOZAK Associate Producer . -
87Th Oscars Nominations Announced
MEDIA CONTACT Natalie Kojen [email protected] Gail Silverman [email protected] January 15, 2015 FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE 87TH OSCARS® NOMINATIONS ANNOUNCED LOS ANGELES, CA — Directors Alfonso Cuarón and J.J. Abrams, actor Chris Pine and Academy President Cheryl Boone Isaacs announced the nominations for the 87th Academy Awards® today (January 15). For the first time, nominees in all 24 categories were announced live. Cuarón and Abrams announced the nominees in 11 categories at 5:30 a.m. PT, followed by Pine and Boone Isaacs for the remaining 13 categories at 5:38 a.m. PT, at the live news conference attended by more than 400 international media representatives. For a complete list of nominees, visit the official Oscars website, www.oscar.com. Academy members from each of the 17 branches vote to determine the nominees in their respective categories – actors nominate actors, film editors nominate film editors, etc. In the Animated Feature Film and Foreign Language Film categories, nominees are selected by a vote of multi-branch screening committees. All voting members are eligible to select the Best Picture nominees. Official screenings of all motion pictures with one or more nominations will begin for members on Saturday, January 24, at the Academy's Samuel Goldwyn Theater. Screenings also will be held at the Academy’s Linwood Dunn Theater in Hollywood and in London, New York and the San Francisco Bay Area. Active members of the Academy are eligible to vote for the winners in all categories. To access the complete nominations press kit, visit www.oscars.org/press/press-kits. -
5 Star Routes
1 | CALIFORNIA CLIMBER | | SPRING 2014 | 2 Climbingthat Solutions fit all your needs. ClimbTech’s Cable Draws ClimbTech’s permanent draws – Permadraws – are designed to be long-life rock climbing quickdraws that don’t wear or deteriorate like traditional nylon draws. Sustainable solutions and ClimbTech’s Legacy Bolt The new Legacy Bolt’s sleeve anchor now makes it possible to be installed and removed, allowing the same bolt hole to be used for rebolting. No need for a hammer, tighten down and you’re done! See new Legacy Bolt product videos at: Innovations climbtech.com/videos in climbing hardware. AWARD WINNER ClimbTech’s Wave Bolt The Wave Bolt is a glue-in rock climbing anchor, offering tremendous strength and increased resistance to corrosion. It combines the strength of glue-ins with the convenience of pitons. When installed in overhung terrain, the wavebolt will not slide out of the hole – like other glue-in bolts do – prior to the glue hardening. Power-Bolt™ Sleeve Anchor The Power-BoltTM is a heavy duty sleeve style anchor. Expansion is created by tightening a threaded bolt which draws a tapered cone expanding a sleve against the walls of the hole. These are the standard in new routing, available at climbtechgear.com ClimbTech’s Hangers A climbing hanger that combines the long life of stainless steel and strength in compliance with CE and UIAA standards. ClimbTech hangers are smooth to mitigate wear and tear on your carabiners. More at climbtechgear.com Follow us on Facebook Check us out on Vimeo /climbtech /climbtech 3 | CALIFORNIA CLIMBER | | SPRING 2014 | 4 photos: Merrick Ales & Felimon Hernandez California Climber CALIFORNIACLIMBERMAGAZINE.COM NO. -
Ee British Academy Film Awards in 2017
EE BRITISH ACADEMY FILM AWARDS IN 2017 NOMINATIONS BY FILM/DISTRIBUTOR BY FILM (42 films) 13th 1 Hidden Figures 1 Allied 1 I, Daniel Blake 5 American Honey 1 Jackie 3 Arrival 9 Julieta 1 The Beatles 1 The Jungle Book 1 Captain Fantastic 1 Kubo and the Two Strings 1 Deepwater Horizon 1 La La Land 11 Denial 1 Lion 5 Dheepan 1 Manchester By the Sea 6 Doctor Strange 3 Moana 1 The Eagle Huntress 1 Moonlight 4 Fantastic Beasts… 5 Mustang 1 Fences 1 Nocturnal Animals 9 Finding Dory 1 Notes on Blindness 3 Florence Foster Jenkins 4 The Pass 1 The Girl on the Train 1 Rogue One 2 The Girl With All the Gifts 1 Son of Saul 1 Hacksaw Ridge 5 Toni Erdmann 1 Hail Caesar 1 Under the Shadow 2 The Hard Stop 1 Weiner 1 Hell or High Water 3 Zootropolis 1 BY DISTRIBUTOR Altitude (5 ) Metrodome (1) Moonlight 4 The Hard Stop 1 The Eagle Huntress 1 Paramount (2) Curzon Artificial Eye (5) Allied 1 Mustang 1 Fences 1 Notes on Blindness 3 Pathe (5) Son of Saul 1 Florence Foster Jenkins 4 Disney (9) Julieta* 1 Doctor Strange 3 Soda (1) Finding Dory 1 Toni Erdmann 1 The Jungle Book 1 StudioCanal (11) Moana 1 The Beatles 1 Rogue One 2 Dheepan 1 Zootropolis 1 Hell or High Water 3 Dogwoof (2) Manchester By the Sea 6 13th 1 Twentieth Century Fox (2)* Weiner 1 Hidden Figures 1 Entertainment Film Distributors (5) Julieta 1 Lion 5 Universal (12) Entertainment One (20) American Honey 1 Arrival 9 Hail, Caesar! 1 Captain Fantastic 1 Kubo and the Two Strings 1 Denial 1 Nocturnal Animals 9 The Girl on the Train 1 Vertigo (2) I, Daniel Blake 5 Under the Shadow 2 Jackie 3 Warner