News from the Grassroots Activist Network
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Wall Free Climb in the World by Tommy Caldwell
FREE PASSAGE Finding the path of least resistance means climbing the hardest big- wall free climb in the world By Tommy Caldwell Obsession is like an illness. At first you don't realize anything is happening. But then the pain grows in your gut, like something is shredding your insides. Suddenly, the only thing that matters is beating it. You’ll do whatever it takes; spend all of your time, money and energy trying to overcome. Over months, even years, the obsession eats away at you. Then one day you look in the mirror, see the sunken cheeks and protruding ribs, and realize the toll taken. My obsession is a 3,000-foot chunk of granite, El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. As a teenager, I was first lured to El Cap because I could drive my van right up to the base of North America’s grandest wall and start climbing. I grew up a clumsy kid with bad hand-eye coordination, yet here on El Cap I felt as though I had stumbled into a world where I thrived. Being up on those steep walls demanded the right amount of climbing skill, pain tolerance and sheer bull-headedness that came naturally to me. For the last decade El Cap has beaten the crap out of me, yet I return to scour its monstrous walls to find the tiniest holds that will just barely go free. So far I have dedicated a third of my life to free climbing these soaring cracks and razor-sharp crimpers. Getting to the top is no longer important. -
The Dawn Wall
AAC Publications The Dawn Wall The Long Struggle For The World's Hardest Big-Wall Free Climb Standing at the base of the Dawn Wall on December 27, 2014, I attempt to break the nervous tension. “It’s the low-pressure push,” I say with a grin. I know it’s bullshit. Once we start, we’re going to the top. “One pitch at a time,” Tommy responds. I nod and start climbing. Six years earlier, I was sitting on top of a 55-foot boulder at the Buttermilks in Bishop, California. Just a few moments before, I’d been 45 feet off the deck, ropeless, on my most ambitious highball first ascent to date. For the past two years, I’d constantly put myself in positions like this. I was obsessed with pushing the standards of highball bouldering, rolling the dice with each sketchy first ascent. Ambrosia pushed the bar even higher, not just blurring the lines between highball and solo but crossing it. To continue meant becoming a free soloist, and I was unwilling. Not only did I need a new project, I needed a new discipline of the sport. The climbing film Progression, released in late summer of 2009, featured both Ambrosia and Tommy Caldwell’s new big-wall free climbing project. When I saw the closing scene of Tommy’s segment, I heard an invitation: “I look at this next generation of climbers doing things on the boulders and sport climbs that I can’t conceive of. If they could apply that kind of talent to the big walls, that’s what it would take to free climb this project. -
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Victorian Climbing Community Revision: V04 Published: 15 Sept 2020 1 Contributing Authors: Matthew Brooks - content manager and writer Ashlee Hendy Leigh Hopkinson Kevin Lindorff Aaron Lowndes Phil Neville Matthew Tait Glenn Tempest Mike Tomkins Steven Wilson Endorsed by: Crag Stewards Victoria VICTORIAN CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 15 SEPTEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Victorian climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. Discussions on these themes have been on-going in the local Victorian and wider Australian climbing communities for many decades. These discussions highlighted a need to broaden the ways for climbers to build collaborative relationships with Traditional Owners and land managers. Over the years, a number of endeavours to build and strengthen such relationships have been undertaken; Victorian climbers have been involved, for example, in a variety of collaborative environmental stewardship projects with Land Managers and Traditional Owners over the last two decades in particular, albeit in an ad hoc manner, as need for such projects have become apparent. The recent widespread climbing bans in the Grampians / Gariwerd have re-energised such discussions and provided a catalyst for reflection on the impacts of climbing, whether inadvertent or intentional, negative or positive. This has focussed considerations of how negative impacts on the environment or cultural heritage can be avoided or minimised and on those climbing practices that are most appropriate, respectful and environmentally sustainable. -
2010 Metolius Climbing 2
2010 METOLIUS CLIMBING 2 It’s shocking to think that it’s been twenty-five years since we cranked up the Metolius Climbing machine, and 2010 marks our 25th consecutive year in business! Wow! Getting our start in Doug Phillips’ tiny garage near the headwaters of the Metolius River (from where we take our name), none of us could have envisioned where climbing would be in 25 years or that we would even still be in the business of making climbing gear. In the 1980s, the choices one had for climbing equipment were fairly limited & much of the gear then was un-tested, uncomfortable, inadequate or unavailable. Many solved this problem by making their own equipment, the Metolius crew included. 3 (1) Smith Rock, Oregon ~ 1985 Mad cranker Kim Carrigan seen here making Much has changed in the last 2 ½ decades since we rolled out our first products. The expansion we’ve seen has been mind-blowing the 2nd ascent of Latest Rage. Joined by fellow Aussie Geoff Wiegand & the British hardman Jonny Woodward, this was one of the first international crews to arrive at Smith and tear the and what a journey it’s been. The climbing life is so full of rich and rewarding experiences that it really becomes the perfect place up. The lads made many early repeats in the dihedrals that year. These were the days metaphor for life, with its triumphs and tragedies, hard-fought battles, whether won or lost, and continuous learning and growing. when 5.12 was considered cutting edge and many of these routes were projected and a few of Over time, we’ve come to figure out what our mission is and how we fit into the big picture. -
Download the Poudre Canyon Bouldering Guide Here!
Poudre Canyon ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE SECOND EDITION By Bennett Scott & Cameron Cross ONLINE VERSION: Selected boulder problems in the upper Poudre Canyon. Laramie, WY WYOMING COLORADO N W E S HWY-287 I-25 Red Feather Lakes CO-14 POUDRE CANYON Mulberry Ave. CO-14 Fort Collins 34 34 Estes Park Loveland HWY-287 Longmont 36 119 Boulder I-25 36 Denver I-70 = AREA COVERED IN THIS GUIDE 2 POUDRE CANYON BOULDERING ! WARNING! Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity responsibility for the safety of those who use that may result in serious injury or death. this guidebook. If you are not an experienced Read this before you use this guide. and proficient climber seek instruction before climbing. The authors and publisher cannot verify the accuracy of information presented Do not attempt climbing without proper in this guide including, but not limited to equipment and training. In addition, this approach or descent routes, problem/route guide should not be used as an instructional descriptions and/or ratings, maps, directions, manual. Information presented in this guide access information, property boundaries, or is based on opinions and should not be management regulations. relied on for personal safety. The authors and publisher assume no responsibility in This guide is a compilation of information the event of injury or death. Do not use this from a variety of sources. Although we guidebook if you are unwilling to assume painstakingly research the information we total responsibility for your safety. provide, it is impossible for us to give first hand knowledge of all the routes presented. -
How Not to Train Top 5 Moderate Desert Spires
THE PUSH AN EXCERPT FROM TOMMY CALDWELL’S NEW MEMOIR FIRST THE RED FEMALE RIVER GORGE’S SECRET 5.15 PAST HAYES MAKES HISTORY TECH TIPS TRAIN ENDURANCE EAT SMARTER, SEND HARDER LOWER IN TOP 5 MODERATE GUIDE MODE DESERT SPIRES HOW NOT TO TRAIN (HINT: IT’S EASIER THAN YOU THINK) Fabian Buhl Fabian © 2017 adidas AG Andreas Steindl Andreas OUTPERFORM THE WIND The TERREX AGRAVIC ALPHA HOODED SHIELD jacket protects you from the wind while keeping your body at the optimal temperature. Whether you perform high pulse or static movements, always stay in your most comfortable zone while pushing your limits further. Andrew Taylor Andrew adidasoutdoor.com all new features EASY OPEN/CLOSE 1 LEAK-PROOF CAP LEAK-PROOF 2 ON/OFF LEVER Water when you want it, none when you don’t. 20% MORE 3 WATER PER SIP Faster water flow powers longer adventures. ERGONOMIC 4 HANDLE Perfect for one-hand filling. HOW TO FIX SOMETHING THAT ISN’T THE LEAST BIT BROKEN. Why upgrade to a new camelbak crux when an old CamelBak Reservoir will last forever? Because we never stop innovating. Our new Crux reservoir delivers 20% more water with every sip in a pack loaded with the latest in hydration technology. camelbak.com CONTENTS 8 FLASH 22 THE APPROACH 17 EDITOR’S NOTE 20 OFF THE WALL Latino Outdoors is engaging the Lati- no community in outdoor recreation. 21 UNBELAYVABLE THE CLIMB 22 TALK OF THE CRAG Climbers, federal agencies, and locals are working to preserve Joe’s Valley. 24 PORTRAIT Kris Hampton’s rise from a rough past to coaching stardom. -
The American Alpine Club Guidebook to Membership Alpinist Magazine
THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP ALPINIST MAGAZINE ith each print edition of Alpinist, we aim to create a work of art, paying attention to every detail— from our extended photo captions to our carefully Wselected images and well-crafted stories. Inside our pages, we strive to offer our readers an experience like that of exploratory climbing, a realm of words and images where they can wander, discover surprising new viewpoints, and encounter moments of excitement, humor, awe and beauty. By publishing the work of climbers from a wide range of ages, technical abilities, nations and cultures—united by their passion for adventure and wild places—we hope to reflect and enhance the sense of community within the climbing life. Over time, back issues have become collectors’ items, serving as historical references and ongoing inspirations. Like our readers, we believe that great writing and art about climbing demand the same boldness, commitment and vision as the pursuit itself. JOIN US. Exclusive AAC Member Pricing 1 Year - $29.95 | 2 Years - $54.95 Alpinist.com/AAC ALPINIST IS A PROUD PARTNER OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB Stay Connected! @AlpinistMag @Alpinist @AlpinistMag ALP_2019_AAC Ad FIN.indd 1 6/26/19 4:14 PM WELCOME, ALL 5 You Belong Here ARTIST SPOTLIGHT 8 Brooklyn Bell on Art for the In-betweens MEMBERSHIP THROUGH THE LENS 10 Inspiration, Delivered Directly NAVAJO RISING 23 An Indigenous Emergence Story WHEN WOMEN LEAD 27 Single Pitch Instructors for the 21st Century GLACIAL VIEWS 29 A Climate Scientist Reflects & Other Research Stories CLIMBERS FOR CLIMATE 32 Taking a Stand on Climate Change, Together 1CLIMB, INFINITE POTENTIAL 34 Kevin Jorgeson Breaks Down Walls by Building Them ON PUSHING 37 24 Hours Into the Black, the AAC Grief Fund AN ODE TO MOBILITY 40 The Range of Motion Project Tackles Cotopaxi YOSEMITE'S CAMP 4 43 The Center of the Climbing Universe REWIND THE CLIMB 47 The Tragedy of the 1932 American K2 Expedition BETA 48 Everything a Club Member Needs to Know PARTING SHOT 72 Jeremiah Watt on Travel & Life a Greg Kerzhner climbing Mr. -
Climbing Wall Facilities Position Statement for the Period 2015-21
The Mountaineering Council of Scotland Climbing Wall Facilities 2015-2021 POSITION STATEMENT AMENDED VERSION 05.16 0 The Mountaineering Council of Scotland Climbing Wall Facilities Position Statement [2015-2021] Approved by the MCofS Board, 18 September 2014 CONTENTS Section Page 1. Executive Summary 2 1.1. Purpose and Background 2 1.2. Aims 2 1.3. Scope 3 1.4. Wall Development Summary 3 1.5. List of Appendices 3 1.6. Appendix: Climbing Wall Facility Position Statement Summary 4 2. Introduction 5 3. Key Aims 5 4. Player Pathways 5 5. Key Drivers for Facility Development 6 6. Desired Outcomes 7 7. Facility Development and Delivery 8 8. Facility Requirements 8 9. Scale of Facility 9 9.1. Boulder Parks 9 9.2. School Walls 10 9.3. Small Walls 10 9.4. Regional Hubs 10 9.5. Regional Hubs Designation 11 9.6. The National Performance Centre 13 9.7. The International Climbing Centre 13 9.8. The National Outdoor Training Centre 14 10. Improving Facility Provision 15 11. Conclusions and Recommendations 16 Appendices A: Player Pathway [Climber to Mountaineer - Recreational] 17 B: Player Pathway [Youth Climbing & Facility Requirements] 18 C: Player Pathway [Youth Starter Climber to Elite] 19 D: Climbing Walls Position Statement: Specifications 20 E: Climbing Walls Position Statement: 2014 Facility Review (see update Strategy) F: Climbing Walls Position Statement: Regional Hub Designation Assessment Criteria 27 1 1. Executive Summary 1.1. Purpose and Background This position statement describes how MCofS will seek to influence the development of an integrated framework of facilities for sport climbing across Scotland, which will meet MCofS aims for both sport development and the ClimbScotland club development initiative over the period 2015-2021. -
Waypoint Namibia
Majka enjoys a perfect crack on Southern Crossing. Big wall Waypoint Namibia What makes a climb impassable? I’m 215-meters up a first ascent of a granite crack climb in the heart of Namibia, and all I have to hold onto is a bush. Lots of bushes. Trees, too. In order to get where I’m going - the summit - I need what’s behind the bushes, the thing these bushes are choking, the thing that I have travelled 15,400 kilometers by plane, truck, and foot for: a perfect crack. amibia is not known for its climbing, which is exactly why I wanted to go there. It’s better known as Africa’s newest Nindependent country, the source of the continent’s largest stores of uranium and diamonds, the Namib Desert, the Skeleton Coast, and its tribal peoples. Previously known as Southwest Africa, this former German colony and South African protectorate holds some of the most coveted, and least visited, natural sites in Africa. In the middle of all of these lies Spitzkoppe, a 500-meter granite plug with over eighty established climbs. When I learned about Spitzkoppe in December 2007, I automatically started wondering what else might be possible to climb in Namibia. I pick unlikely climbing destinations because I want to learn what happens on the margins of adventure. War, apartheid, and remoteness have all combined to keep many of Namibia’s vertical landscapes relatively unexplored. When I found an out-of-focus photo of a 1,000-meter granite prow with a mud Himba hut in the foreground, I knew I had found my objective. -
Genre Bending Narrative, VALHALLA Tells the Tale of One Man’S Search for Satisfaction, Understanding, and Love in Some of the Deepest Snows on Earth
62 Years The last time Ken Brower traveled down the Yampa River in Northwest Colorado was with his father, David Brower, in 1952. This was the year his father became the first executive director of the Sierra Club and joined the fight against a pair of proposed dams on the Green River in Northwest Colorado. The dams would have flooded the canyons of the Green and its tributary, Yampa, inundating the heart of Dinosaur National Monument. With a conservation campaign that included a book, magazine articles, a film, a traveling slideshow, grassroots organizing, river trips and lobbying, David Brower and the Sierra Club ultimately won the fight ushering in a period many consider the dawn of modern environmentalism. 62 years later, Ken revisited the Yampa & Green Rivers to reflect on his father's work, their 1952 river trip, and how we will confront the looming water crisis in the American West. 9 Minutes. Filmmaker: Logan Bockrath 2010 Brower Youth Awards Six beautiful films highlight the activism of The Earth Island Institute’s 2011 Brower Youth Award winners, today’s most visionary and strategic young environmentalists. Meet Girl Scouts Rhiannon Tomtishen and Madison Vorva, 15 and 16, who are winning their fight to green Girl Scout cookies; Victor Davila, 17, who is teaching environmental education through skateboarding; Alex Epstein and Tania Pulido, 20 and 21, who bring urban communities together through gardening; Junior Walk, 21 who is challenging the coal industry in his own community, and Kyle Thiermann, 21, whose surf videos have created millions of dollars in environmentally responsible investments. -
Climb-Injury-Free-Compressed-Book
FREE SHIPPING COUPON CODE ENTER AT CHECKOUT: CLIMBON Free shipping anywhere in the USA Climber: Mike Anderson. Photo Credit: Janelle Anderson Janelle Credit: Photo Anderson. Mike Climber: WHEN YOU PURCHASE FROM THECLIMBINGDOCTOR.COM CLIMB INJURY-FREE A Proven Injury Prevention and Rehabilitation System DR. JARED VAGY DPT Doctor of Physical Therapy Board Certified Clinical Specialist [email protected] www.theclimbingdoctor.com Copyright © 2017 by The Climbing Doctor All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by an information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the author. Requests for permission should be addressed to: [email protected] Always consult your physician or physical therapist before beginning any exercise program. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat any medical condition. If you experience pain or difficulty with these exercises, stop and consult your healthcare provider. Your use of this book indicates your assumption of the risk of injury and is an acknowledgment of your own sole responsibility for your safety training for climbing. The author assumes no liability for injuries sustained by readers who engage in exercises or recommendations described in the book. Content Photography: Stephen Gross, Matthew Johnson and Ari Kirsch Graphic Design and Cover: Rachelle Vagy Climbers: Sasha Digiulian, Josh Levin, Sean McColl and Jonathan Siegrist Editors: Alex Gullen and Dominik Sklarzyk Dedication To my family: Rick and Sharyl, Rachelle, Grandma Claire, Grandpa Sid and Grandma Sylvia and to my loving girlfriend Shawn Goodman. -
California Climber Winter 2012
winter 2012 DESTINATIONS 30/INDIAN ROCK ° 40/MALIBU CREEK California Climber N 03 48/COLUMBIA 2 |CALIFORNIA CLIMBER | |WINTER 2012 | 3 California Climber NO. 03 WINTER 2012 DEPARTMENTS 08/EDItOR’s NOtE 10/CALIfORNIA CLIMBER ON ThE cOvEr: 12/REvIEw Nicole Zuelke on Aries 16/CreatURE COMfORts Curse (V7 variation), in the 18/stAND By Your Van Labyrinth Area, Columbia. 20/GOLDEN stAtE IMAGE + DEAN FLEMING ThIS pAgE: FEATURES Justin Ancira pulls down on The Ramp (V4) in the 30/INDIAN & MORtAR ROCK urban jungle of Mortar 40/MALIBU CREEK Rock, Berkeley. 48/COLUMBIA IMAGE + ALTON RICHARDSON 4 |CALIFORNIA CLIMBER | |WINTER 2012 | 5 Natalie Duran poised on Urban Struggle (5.12b), California Climber Malibu Creek State Park. IMAGE + ANTHONY LAPOMARDO CALIfORNIAClimbermagazINE.com publIShEr/EDITOr IN chIEF Dean Fleming ArT DIrEctor Alton Richardson DEpArTments Editor Nicholas Miley SENIOr cONTrIbuTINg phOTOgrAphErS Jerry Dodrill, Jim Thornburg SENIOr ContrIbuTINg EditorS Fitz Cahall, James Lucas cONTrIbuTOrS Jim Thornburg, Greg Epperson, Nicholas Miley, James Lucas, Anthony Lapomardo, Alton Richardson CaliforNIA clImbEr 22502 Colorado River Dr. Sonora, Ca 93570 Phone: (209) 768-0110 Email: [email protected] Most, IF not All OF ThE cATIvities DEpIcTED hErEIN cArry AND present SIgNIFIcANT rISkS OF pErSNAl INjury Or death. Rock climbing, bouldering, ice climbing, moutaineering, alpine nina williams climbing and any other outdoor activity are inherently danger- ous. The owners, staff and managment of California Climber do not recomend that anyone partcipate in these activities unless they are an expert or accompanied by an expert. Please seek qualified professional instruction and/or guidance. Understand- ing the risks involved are necesassary and be prepared to assume all responisbilty associated with those risks.