Swiss watch movements guide

Continue The Swiss Movement Innovations zenith widely argued that the first automatic chronograph, the zenith iconic El Primero movement also has an outstanding reputation as the world's most accurate series made chronograph - capable of measuring time to 1/10th of a second, another first for a mechanical wristwatch. Omega Now, used in an increasing number of Omega watches, the invention of Co-Axial Escapement is a departure from the watch traditions that have been in place since the 1750s. The heart of the mechanical clock, the escape maintains the vibration of the balance and thus adjusts the speed at which the hands rotate. Co-axial escape reduces friction between these parts, leading to reduced maintenance needs and especially increased accuracy over time. Originally invented by British watchmaker George Daniels, Omega launched its first coaxial caliber in 1999 and began the first mechanical watch revolution in more than 250 years. Omega continues to refine and develop the technology in the decades since its launch, creating new co-Axial calibers with additional complications that achieve the chronometric performance previously unplaced for a series of mechanical watch production. Longines Longines released the first chronograph wristwatch in 1913, followed by the first chronograph in 1936 and Chronoson in 1948, the inspiration behind the unique L440 movement in the Conquest of the Alpine Ski Chronograph. Exclusively for Longines, the L440 provides high timekeeping accuracy, accurate up to 1/100th of a second and has a microcontroller with a flash memory so that split time can be recorded. Breitling Closely following on the heels of the Longines, in 1915 Breitling announced the first wrist chronograph with an independent chronograph push piece. In 1932, this invention was improved by separating stop-start functions from the overwork function, which allowed several consecutive times to be added without returning hands to zero. It was revolutionary for both the time of sport and the calculation of flight time and there was a technological breakthrough that was soon accepted at the competition. While unable to claim the pioneers in this field, watchmakers Vacheron Constantin, Tissot and Rolex take this crown, Omega has managed to make the latest development in the anti-magnetic watch. Taking its first foray into the world of anti-magnetic watches in 1957, Omega Railmaster was designed specifically for rail staff and was able to withstand magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss thanks to its copper movement and special double hull. In 2013, Omega launched the new Seamaster Aqua Terra, which greatly improved this by adopting the approach of making the movement itself resistant to magnetic fields rather than relying on the inner protective body. Incorporating components such as silicon Wheels and wheels escaping nickel phosphorus, these new movements are able to withstand magnetic fields of more than 15,000 gauss. While the trend towards internal movements continues to gain momentum for high-end watches, the vast majority of available watches are still dependent on mass- produced movements from outside suppliers. When you first enter the world of watches, it can be difficult to get an overview of the entire situation in order to better assess potential purchases. The huge number of vendors, and the fact that many of them give their movements different names depending on the brand purchase, doesn't help with that either. In this article, we briefly introduce the most important players in the vendor industry and their most famous movements. ETA Although their days as quasi-monopolies are over, Swatch subsidiary ETA is still the most important player in the Swiss mechanical movements market. The company's origins date back to three historical movement manufacturers, namely FHF (Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Fontainemelon), AS (Adolf Schild) and AMSA (Adolphe Michel SA), who banded together to form Sbauches SA in 1926. The name ETA came a little later. In 1931, Abaaouds SA joined forces with a large group of other Swiss companies to create ASUAG (the predecessor of Swatch Group) in an attempt to avert a disastrous price war after the global economic crash of 1929. A year later, watch manufacturer Eterna teamed up with ASUAG. Eterna was then forced to split into two separate companies: while Eterna continued to produce watches, their traffic division separated and became ETA SA. This series of mergers is the reason for a wide range of names and styles among movements still available from ETA: They were derived from designs previously by independent companies. Names like Peseux, Valjoux, and Unitas are all proof of this. The most famous and most common ETA caliber is perhaps 2824-2. This is a three-hand automatic motion with a date display. While 28 represents a family of movements, the following two digits indicate function or complications. For example, 2836-2 offers a day and date, while 2801-2 has no display date at all. ETA 2892 is another widespread movement, but it falls into a slightly higher price category. You can recognize this caliber by its larger central rotor bearings and because it flatters than 2824-2. TAG Heuer calls 2892 Caliber 7, while Mule Glashutte and Ulysses Nardin also have their own versions of the movement. The ETA Valjoux 7750 is the most popular mechanical motion chronograph, while the Unitas series works particularly well in large cases, as its calibers are based on pocket-watch traffic. The small and flat hand wound of the Peseux 7001 movement was particularly in the compact men's watches of previous decades. Louis Earard has long been a loyal buyer of this movement, which in combination with the module manages the models of the brand regulator. The trend towards larger cases began with the introduction of the ETA Valgranges series. You can find variants derived from Valjoux movements with wider diameters with less than catchy names like A07.111. Swatch members have had access to improved versions of the classic 2842-2 with new materials for several years. With official designations such as C07.111, they are a marketer called Powermatic 80. They offer an 80-hour power reserve and are also available with silicon components, such as the Tissot watch. Another thing you should know is that movements are usually available in different refinement classes. Traditionally, these were standard, developed, upper and chronometers. Higher scores have more extravagant finishes, and sometimes improved accuracy or even a chronometer certificate. It is worth taking note of the traffic class if the manufacturer provides this information. Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 We would be remiss if we did not mention the automatic caliber that came out just a few years ago, the Sistem 51 with an 80-hour power reserve. This movement debuted in the eponymous Swatch watch with a plastic case. It cannot be regulated after its fully automated assembly process, uses plastic components in shoots and elsewhere, and it did not resonate well with purists initially. Now, however, you will also find this caliber in metal cases. There is also an optical and technically improved version called Swissmatic, which feeds the models of the same name. Sellita Sellita has existed as a company since the 1950s; however, it did not appear as an independent and self- recordable Swiss manufacturer of the movement until 2003, when the suspension of ETA supplies to third parties seemed inevitable. They almost exclusively produce movements based on ETA prototypes. The relevant patents expired a long time ago, so the bestselling Sellita SW 200 corresponds to 2824-2, the SW 300 is modeled after 2892, and the SW 500 is a clone of the Valjoux 7750. With the SW 200, Sellita even offers the same four quality classes known from ETA, so that former ETA buyers have access to the perfect replacement. Tsu Besuch bei Sellita 2018 Although you will find minor changes here and there, in terms of functionality and reliability, Sellita traffic is at least on par with the originals. Since the motion offer does not always correspond, some watch manufacturers explicitly offer models with ETA or Sellita movements, depending on the current market situation. The future development of some movements for mass production is already under consideration, and in 2019 the expansion of their production says that Sella's has both the will and the means to do so. If you want to know more about Sellita, check out The Chrono24 YouTube channel for a video from our 2018 visit with rare glimpses of production capacity. In another article in the Faces of the Industry series, we also documented the career of Sebastien Chaulmonte, one of the company's leading members. The Seiko Seiko movements are not only in the company's own watch, but they are among the most common movements in available automatic watches from countless international brands. The name Seiko actually means a whole group of companies that is rooted in the Hattori family watch business, founded in the late 19th century. At the same time, subsidiaries are very diversified and in many cases managed independently. Seiko TMI's subsidiary, Time Module, is hardly a household name. Time Module markets Seiko movements to third parties and usually does so under designations that make specific appropriation difficult. The best-selling TMI is probably the NH35, which goes to the 4R35 in Seiko models. Like three-handed automatic motion with date, stop seconds, and the potential for manual winding, this is a cost-effective all-in-one solution that can even be found in watches with double-digit prices. Seiko Ref.SRP704 with 4R35 caliber If you are looking for an affordable but t4echnologically well-equipped mechanical chronograph (vertical connection and column wheel!), keep your eyes clean for the watch with a very rare TMI NE88, Seiko 8Rxx series chronograph. Citizen Miyota Citizen is another corporate group widespread in Japan. While the name Citizen is associated with quartz watches in gigantic quantities and the popular Eco Drive solar clock series, Miyota is responsible for mass production of mechanical movements. The three-hand automatic Miyota 821A or 8215 caliber has been a solid option for many decades, particularly for microbreeds and cheaper models installed by companies. However, it was not very popular with watch fans due to the lack of stop-seconds mechanism - especially since Seiko brought NH35 to market. Then came the Miyota 9015 in 2009, a move for those with higher standards. It offers stop-seconds, cool appearance, and enough power for additional complications. In order to enjoy the 9015 though, you have to be prepared to spend a little more than the entry- level price. The honorable mention below is a brief introduction to some manufacturers whose movements are less common in beginner watches but still worth knowing. Seagull Western watch fans have long mocked Chinese watch manufacturers. That all changed when the Tianjin Seagull landed a cult hit with ST19, a remake of the historic Venus of 175 Movement. Both Seagull models, as well as models of young brands such as Baltic Watch, have had success in the West with this retro movement. 1963 Red Star Re-release St1901 STP Swiss Technology Production is a subsidiary of FOSSIL. In fact, the company, known for trendy quartz watches, also manufactures mechanical watches and sells them to third parties, including the Sternglas brand, a common sight on German social media. Sternglas is equipped with one of its STP 1-11 models, the design of which reflects the well-known ETA 2824-2. Rhonda Rhonda, known for her robust Swiss quartz movements, announced the release of a new mechanical mechanism in 2016. Based on a completely new design, the Ronda Mecano R150 is rarely seen in the wild, but we wonder if it can create a place among Swiss and Japanese bestsellers. General tips for detecting movements Sometimes it's not at all easy to determine what movement the watch really has. Many brands offer exclusivity with confusing own names, although the moves are often supplied by one of the usual suspects. Sometimes this is done only to create the illusion of their own movements, although in other cases it is more legitimate because brands make their own changes, add modules or otherwise improve movement. In these rare cases, the higher price is certainly understandable and justified. As a buyer, you should take a close look to find out exactly what you are for sale. If you are unsure, motion photos or photos taken through the display case back can help, as can online forums and traffic databases, where you can often find information about alternative names or brands that set certain movements in certain models. If you only have a photo to go on, you can take note of any distinctive features and compare them with the photos of the classics highlighted in this article. More Famous watches with outsourcing movements What is in-house traffic? ETA movements: Big and reliable workhorses or mass production without soul? Soul?

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