The high life. 21 Lane sets dramatic new standards welcome to of living right on ’s doorstep, perfectly placed between the City to the west wapping and to the east.

• 2 • • 3 • 02

• 4 • • 5 • 21 WAPPING LANE

21 Wapping Lane has been designed to offer premium residential accommodation, with first class retail, leisure and recreation facilities.

This is a brand new interpretation of canalside life, an injection of bright urban vitality in one of London’s most historic districts. • 6 • Canary Wharf, London’s highest rising district, dramatically lights up the sky to the east

• 8 • • 9 • To the west lies the , a rich mixture of ancient and modern

• 10 • • 11 • Modern, sophisticated Canalside living adds a dash of unashamedly contemporary style to the unique character and charm of Wapping.

THE courtyard

• 12 • • 13 • The impressive entrance Lobby sets the tone for 21 Wapping Lane, to welcome you home and to greet your guests in style.

THE lobby

• 14 • • 15 • THE gym & SPA

Exclusive to residents, offering you the latest, state-of-the-art equipment for warming up, working out and keeping yourself fighting fit.

Fully equipped with steam room, sauna and spa-hydro pool, tanning and treatment rooms: relax and unwind, put back what the day takes out. • 16 • ground floor facilities

library GYM lounge studio

POST room toilets bar

CAFé and RESTAURANT sauna WC

entrance foyer changing rooms pool WC kitchen steam office MULTI-FUNCTIONal room concierge cinema

• 18 • • 19 • Going places

Wapping has excellent transport links. It’s just six minutes west to Bank station in the City; Canary Wharf is nine minutes east. City Airport, with 15-minute check-ins for international flights to 28 European cities and NYC, is 20 minutes away; Heathrow, Gatwick and Stansted airports can be reached in less than an hour. Paris is three hours away, via the Eurostar international terminals at St Pancras or Stratford, home of the 2012 Olympic Games.

The River Bus, from St Katherine Docks, takes you upstream to the City and Embankment, and downstream to and the O2 Arena. And Wapping is well located for the capital’s universities: Camberwell College of Arts, Goldsmiths College and Greenwich University are just south of the river, while City, London Metropolitan, Queen Mary, Birkbeck College and UCL are easily accessible to the north. —

Shadwell to Bank: 4 mins to Canary Wharf: 8 mins Shadwell to City Airport: 18 mins Wapping to : 9 mins

All travel times taken from www.tfl.gov.uk

• 21 • gateway to

TO ST JOHN’S WOOD the city & WEST HAMPSTEAD KINGS CROSS ST. PANCRAS HIGHBURY & ISLINGTON

SHOREDITCH STRATFORD TO UPMINSTER

LIVERPOOL STREET TO NOTTING HILL & PADDINGTON WEST END

THE CITY

FENCHURCH STREET Shadwell to Bank: 4 mins BANK TOWER SHADWELL WESTMINSTER HILL

CITY AIRPORT TOWER GATEWAY CANARY WHARF Shadwell to WAPPING Canary Wharf: TATE MODERN 8 mins

LONDON CITY AIRPORT WATERLOO LONDON BRIDGE VICTORIA

CANARY WHARF R

CANADA WATER O ARENA I 2

THE SHARD V

E

R NEW CROSS

T S H E A M

GREENWICH CIRCLE & BATTERSEA POWER STATION

TO WIMBLEDON EAST LONDON LINE

JUBILEE LINE TO WEST CROYDON & CRYSTAL PALACE

TO LEWISHAM

• 22 • • 23 •

C

A

N SHADWELL N (OVERGROUND/DLR) C Y C L E O A Y S U P E R H G A T E W I G H W A Y R N T O W E G T O K I N S T E B A R R E E T C A B L E S T R E T

L E B C A

S

S T T Walk time to T R Shadwell: 8 mins N I E D M E TOWER GATEWAY L A T (DLR) Y O R O R ST GEORGE’S C O IN THE EAST (DISTRICT/CIRCLE) K A

A D R C E R E T S T H I L L E H I G H W A Y H E R T T O W

Y H W A H I G T H E

MANGO’S G E T R E E S T N A A E N N I N G T O P S R T CYCLE HIRE

DOCKING L D N PING PONG S L STATION M E L I F I T H E

A W

T W

A

WAPPING

G P TOBACCO DOCKS S WOODS

N P T I

THE WAPPING PROJECT P I R RIVERSIDE CAFE P PROSPECT

N N E S H A M S T E A OF

G W ZIZZI’S E

T

WAITROSE L

R

FITNESS FIRST A S THE DICKENS INN E

T A N R A K A I N E S T T H R THE TOWER HOTEL A R ST PETER’S MALA INDIAN RESTAURANT E E V LONDON DOCKS

R D E PRIMARY SCHOOL T GASTRONOMICA I A O

E N E N ’ FOOD MARKET U

G S G HERMITAGE

S D H PRIMARY SCHOOL T 100 BUS TO TOWER HILL I ST KATHARINE’S PIER W A (RIVER BOAT) D3 BUS TO CANARY WHARF R A N Y TOWER PHARMACY B W

A JOHN ORWELL R Y SPORTS CENTRE R I V E R T H A M E S E W A WHITE SWAN P W CYCLE HIRE DOCKING P O I STATION N SMITH’S BRASSERIE WAPPING Walk time to T G GARDENS PIZZA EXPRESS Wapping: 5 mins

H I G H WAPPING PLAYGROUP

S T R E ROYAL DRY CLEANERS E THE TURK’S HEAD T WAPPING T E (OVERGROUND) THE E R T S

H ILL BORDELLO G DESIGN MUSEUM I W H A P P I N G

The best near Restaurants near Shopping near Wapping Lane: Wapping Lane: Wapping Lane:

• The – the • Smith’s Brasserie is a five • There are local butchers, oldest riverside in London star fish restaurant bakers and convenience stores in Wapping Village wapping • The Captain Kidd • Il Bordello is an Italian restaurant on Wapping Lane • The nearest supermarket is • The Town of Ramsgate Waitrose on St Thomas More St, • The Wapping Project is in the • The White Swan about five minutes walk away old hydraulic power station amenities St Katherine Docks has an abundance of pubs and restaurants overlooking the marina and is ten minutes walk away.

• 24 • • 25 • the apartments

• 26 • • 27 • Step out into the open air. Generous balconies give the apartments an extra dimension of breathing space.

• 28 • • 29 • the living room

Contemporary, adaptable living rooms create the perfect backdrop for you to express your individuality, whether you’re putting your feet up or pushing the boat out. • 31 • • 32 • • 33 • • 34 • • 35 • the kitchen

Contemporary design creates a perfectly balanced space, a pleasure to look at and to work in, to prepare dinner for six or just a freshly squeezed orange juice. • 37 • • 38 • • 40 • • 41 • the bedroom

Thoughtful design, attention to detail and high quality materials combine to create personal and intimate bedrooms in which to rest, to sleep and perhaps, to dream. • 43 • • 44 • • 45 • • 46 • • 47 • the bathroom

Designed to offer you a luxurious refuge from the outside world, perfect to prepare for the working day and an inviting space to come home and relax in. • 49 •

Specification

Main structure Walls

Reinforced concrete frame construction Party walls constructed from metal on reinforced concrete piled foundations. studwork, finished on both sides with sound resistant plasterboard and acoustic insulation Building envelope between, or structural concrete faced with plasterboard on both sides. Internal walls External wall with a quality insulated constructed from metal studwork or modern cladding system and with various solid timber panels with plasterboard on architect designed finishes such as each side and with insulation where detailed. insulated render, terracotta, powder- coated aluminium and timber panels. Balconies

Floors Where applicable, a mixture of painted metal and glass balconies constructed Reinforced concrete slab with appropriate with brushed steel handrails and floor finishes (see flooring). timber composite decking boards.

Roof Ceilings High-performance membrane roofing Suspended plasterboard with high overlaid with pre-cast paving or level feature recess concealing bio-roofs where applicable. LED perimeter lighting.

Windows Flooring Double-glazed timber composite windows Slimline oak floor boarding to hall, living including opening lights, double-glazed areas and kitchen. Natural marble slab timber composite doors to balconies flooring to bathrooms, en-suites and and terraces where appropriate. shower rooms. Fitted carpet to bedrooms.

Stairs

In-situ or pre-cast concrete stairs with steel balustrades in common areas.

• 52 • • 53 • Decoration Wardrobes charges for cost of services). Smoke/ heat detectors fitted as standard. All internal walls painted with Integrated wardrobes fitted in all warm white emulsion, skirting bedrooms with oak timber mirror Management and security and door frames painted with doors, contrasting colour to interiors warm white eggshell enamel. and bespoke profile edge door pulls. Management and 24 hour security services located in the central Kitchens: 1, 2 & 3 bed apartments Bathrooms estate management office. Entry phone system connected to main Fitted with custom designed modular Fitted with white enamel bath with entrance door. CCTV system cabinets with contrasting matt chrome thermostatic mixer tap, provided to cover the whole estate. lacquer finishes in shades of Eau de chrome shower with detachable Nil. Black granite worktops fitted handset and frameless glass bath Parking with under-mounted stainless steel screen. White ceramic wall-mounted sink with chrome single lever pillar WC with concealed cistern. Tailor- Limited car parking at extra cost tap. Splashbacks in polished white made white ceramic wash hand basin, and subject to availability. glazed ceramic tiles. Shelving edged with chrome single lever mixer tap. in fine-grained, dark-stained walnut Unique wall-mounted oak vanity Elevators veneer. Kitchen wrap-around framing unit display storage with concealed Elevators serve all floors. in Ferrara Oak veneer. Concealed LED lighting. Heated wall behind LED lighting to underside of feature polished stainless steel and External storage above worktops. Integrated solid oak timber towel rail. Walls appliances by Siemens, comprising and floors finished with natural Ground-level areas laid out and combination stainless steel multi- marble tiles. Feature metal frame finished with a combination of function electric oven, touch control glass screen room divider between architect-designed water features, ceramic hob and integrated extractor bathroom and bedroom (Suites only). hard and soft landscaping hood, built-in wine cooler, fridge with feature lighting. freezer and dishwasher. Combined Shower rooms washing machine/tumble dryer Leisure facilities Specification as bathrooms, located in separate utility cupboard. but fitted with white ceramic Fully managed health club with shower tray, thermostatic mixer Jacuzzi Pool, Steam, Sauna, Kitchens: suites and fixed showerhead with Gymnasium and exercise areas. Fitted with custom designed modular frameless glass shower screen. cabinets in pastel Eau de Nil lacquer with contrasting interior colour. Oak Heating and hot water veneer timber cupboard doors with Individually metered system contrasting colour to interiors and provides heating and hot bespoke profile edge for door pulls. water from the development’s Reconstituted stone and mink glazed central plant. Centralised wet ceramic tiles counter work bench heating system throughout. with recessed drain detail. Fischer and Paykel fully integrated single Electrics dish drawer with bespoke handle in folded brass. 1½ bowl stainless Energy efficient downlighters fitted in steel mounted sink with chrome kitchen, hall, bathroom, shower room single lever pillar tap. Splashbacks and en-suite, where appropriate. in Warm Mink bevelled-edge glazed Switch plates and sockets in ceramic tiles. Integrated appliances accordance with IEE regulations. by Siemens, comprising combination TV/FM and telephone points for stainless steel multi-function electric broadband internet access in living oven, 2 ring induction hob, concealed room and bedroom; communal extractor hood, fridge freezer and satellite dish with connection points built-in wine cooler. Combined in living room and main bedroom. washing machine/tumble dryer (Purchasers are responsible for located in separate utility cupboard. their own connections and related

• 54 • • 55 • DIS COV ER WAP PING

Peter Watts takes a stroll through the neighbourhood of Wapping. In what was once the home of the London Docks he finds a restaurant in a power station, a floating artists’ community, ancient pubs, an urban wood and the ghost of an escaped tiger.

• 89 • Explore Wapping,’ exhorted the great Explore Wapping and see how London writer Samuel Johnson to his London can demonstrate a seemingly biographer James Boswell, ‘to see infinite capacity to reinvent itself, the wonderful extent and variety of how it will welcome newcomers and London’. It is fine advice. Johnson was how it celebrates its past while never speaking in the 1780s, when Wapping neglecting to engage with the future. was London’s principle settlement Few cities have London’s knack for for sailors, a hive of cobbled streets looking simultaneously backwards as and damp, narrow alleys that lead well as forwards, and few places in to the numerous wharves and London do this better than Wapping. jetties of riverside London, but You could call it Wappingness. his instruction rings true today. wappingness

A compass on a boat moored at hermitage mooring To understand Wapping try although this has over time turned Above: The sandstone approaching it from St Katharine the sort of misty green colour you brick streets of Docks, the pretty riverside associate with cannons dredged from Wapping High Street development that lies adjacent to the the ocean floor.T his is the old dock Opposite: a view of Tower of London. Leave St Katharine house, a remnant of when Wapping from Docks at the point where it almost was home to London Docks, and it hermitage moorings touches the Thames and you will stands next to Hermitage Basin, one arrive at the very western point of of the few parts of the dock complex Wapping High Street, the charismatic not to have been redeveloped in street that runs parallel to the river for the 1970s. Hermitage Basin once almost the entire length of the district. offered a way for ships from around Here, on the corner with Thomas More the world to get from the mammoth Street, is a large stone wall, decorated London Dock to the Thames, but with icicle-like drips of cement. now it is a sweet little ornamental Inside is a large red brick building, lake surrounded by houses, and a which still proudly wears the emblem home itself to a sedate family of of the Port Of London Authority, regal swans and the odd mallard.

• 92 • It is another fine example of They were the closest docks to the Wappingness: the way Wapping City of London, which gave them has come to terms with its past, a significant advantage over those making sensible accommodation that had recently been built on with what has been before. This has the . In these Wapping not been an easy task. Wapping warehouses, dockers would unload has been battered by change treasures from right across the British over the centuries, first when the Empire, including tobacco, rum, docks were built in 1805, carving whalebone, spices, cocoa, coffee, great watery holes throughout the rubber, coconuts, marble and wool. neighbourhood and reducing the population of 6,000 by two thirds, Settlers from overseas lived in and then when they were filled in Wapping – nearby was again in the 1970s, eradicating what home to London’s first Chinatown had been Wapping’s identity for more and the area is now home to a than 150 years. The warehouses and thriving Bangladeshi community docks of Wapping were also heavily – and artists, writers and poets targeted by German bombers during would come to Wapping to glimpse World War II. But still it prospers. exotica in the form of both the Signs of Wapping’s maritime heritage goods brought from overseas are everywhere. Before the docks and in the working-class men and arrived, it was a place of wharves, women who lived and worked there. jetties, warehouses, boatbuilders, They would then disperse around sailmakers and pubs, having been London and the East End, taking originally settled by the Saxons some of the essence of Wapping and used by London’s sailors for with them across the Highway into centuries. The building of the docks in Whitechapel, and beyond. reclaimed marshland helped cement Later still in the 1970s, artists set up these long links with the sea, even studios in the derelict warehouses if they replaced the bustling village of Wapping, creative communities A compass on a atmosphere with vast warehouses that lent Wapping a strong artistic boat moored at and a more transient population. character it retains to this day. hermitage mooring Such is the all-pervasive water-soaked atmosphere that

The chief attraction, of course, was lead directly down to the river. Such the river, although the Thames itself is the all-pervasive water-soaked can only intermittently be glimpsed atmosphere that Wapping itself can Wapping itself between the tall warehouses that even feel like something of an island, act almost like a river wall. But stroll bordered on three sides by the liquid round Wapping for long enough barriers of the Thames, St Katharine and you’ll see signs of its maritime Docks and and with can even feel like history everywhere in the shape of a busy main road, the Highway, to weathered dock walls, converted the north, cutting it off from the rest warehouses and industrial walk- of London. And within this island, ways that allow passageway high there is just as much to explore as something of an above the cobbled streets. Here there was in Johnson’s time. You can are restaurants and pubs that pay find London’s oldest riverside inn, homage to the past, plus a pretty the grisly site of pirate executions, canal that stretches in a narrow a gorgeous listed church, a power island. strip from Hermitage Basin in the station turned art gallery, an historic west to Shadwell Basin in the east, foot tunnel, London’s only memorial offering a slender shadow of the to the Blitz, mudlarks searching for bustling docks that once stood here. Tudor bric-a-brac, Wapping Woods Between buildings on Wapping High and an escaped tiger. So come, let’s Street you can see numerous ancient follow Johnson, explore Wapping stone stairs, green with age, that and embrace Wappingness.

OPPOSITE: Stone stairs, green with age, lead from the Thames to the high street • 96 • Few parts of London have been This attitude of helping others to help battered by outside forces quite as the area is not confined to the past. much as Wapping. The docks have The Turk’s Head was once a pub – Neigh come and gone, as have air raids and reputedly the last place a pirate on his a 1980s property boom, all making way to would get a a tangible impact on the landscape drink – but is now a community café. that threatened to split any notions A board outside explains its colourful bour of neighbourhood asunder. But a past: ‘This former public house has a community spirit has survived and special history. During World War II even prospered. For a fine example it was run by its eccentric landlady, stroll to the Turk’s Head, which sits Mog Murphy, and stayed open all hooD on the corner of Scandrett Street hours for service personnel seeking and Greenbank in a part of Wapping news of their loved ones. After a that has remained mostly unchanged vigorous campaign in the 1980sthe by time. Next door you’ll find the Turk’s Head Company, a charity set former church of St James, built in up to improve local life, bought the 1764 and damaged in the Second derelict building from the Council World War but now restored and and restored it. The income from the converted into housing. It sits next rents of the café and studios above to St John’s Old School, which was pays for charitable activities.’ There is built around the same time. The a continuum here, one of local pride, former school features a beautiful community spirit, people looking after front containing twin alcoves in which one another: it’s a neighbourhood, sit a statue of a boy and girl and the a vibrant, thriving and artistic one. proud claim that this school was founded by ‘voluntary contributions’.

OPPOSITE top: A cast iron 73 on the wall of a warehouse conversion

OPPOSITE bottom: one of wapping’s many painted warehouse addresses • 99 • Track west for another, more sombre boats, 18 of them, that are moored with their nautical neighbours. but still magisterial, example of at Hermitage Community Moorings. The boaters have also encouraged Wapping’s neighbourhood spirit and This is a co-operatively-run mooring Wapping’s Bangladeshi community its collective memory. In Hermitage that is owned and run by the boat to use the facility, mainly through Riverside Memorial Garden adjacent owners. They had to fight to get it nearby Hermitage Primary School. to St Katharine Docks is a large built, but were eventually given the ‘The kids come down and we block of stone, out of which has nod by Tower Hamlets because it talk to them about the area and been carved the Picasso-esque was felt the boats were contributing the river and its history,’ explains shape of a dove. This proud statue to the consistent history of maritime Anne Wainwright. ‘Many have later is the work of Wendy Taylor, an Wapping and because they were brought their parents and even artist who has a studio in Wapping, giving something back to the grandparents down.’ This is Wapping and it is London’s sole memorial to community – the mooring boasts a at its best. It’s no coincidence that the citizens who died in the Blitz community hall that can be hired by a lot of the same boat-owners can between September 7 1940 and May locals for events and meetings. The be spied at the Turk’s Head, sharing 10 1941. Wapping doesn’t forget. mooring also features in London’s space with local historians, artists Open House weekend, and many and writers, collectively plotting The Hermitage Riverside Memorial locals from the new developments different ways to celebrate Wapping’s Gardens overlook a large group of take this annual opportunity to mingle past and improve its present.

There is a continuum here, one of local pride, community spirit, people looking after one another: it’s a neighbourhood, a vibrant, thriving and artistic one.

OPPOSITE: Boat owners and artists still make up the riverside community at hermitage mooring • 100 • • 101 • A magical place

• 102 • • 103 • A wapping pub crawl

If there’s one thing sailors like it’s a Revolution in 1688. He was dressed Near the police station is the second drink, and for centuries Wapping was as a sailor and attempting to catch Wapping pub, the Captain Kidd legendary for its pubs and taverns. It’s a ship from Wapping Old Stairs (108 Wapping High St), named said there were once around 50 inns that would allow him to follow his after the famous pirate who met a in Wapping. The three that remain patron James II into exile in Europe. grisly end at Wapping’s Execution are among the best in London – the Jeffreys, known as the Hanging Dock. Kidd was a curious fish, a Town of Ramsgate, The Captain Kidd Judge, had brutally reinforced Navy man who was backed by a and the Prospect of Whitby. All are James II’s rule with mass executions. cabal of English Lords to fight the located by the river and spaced at He died of a kidney infection in French, hunt pirates and defend the perfect interval for a low-key pub the Tower of London in 1689. the financial interests of the East crawl. Start in the west at the Town of India Company in the Indian Ramsgate (62 Wapping High Street). Leave the Town of Ramsgate and Ocean in 1696. At some point Kidd The name comes from the Ramsgate stroll past the beautiful Venetian turned pirate himself, albeit not fishermen whose boats would Gothic tea warehouse of Oliver’s a particularly good one. He was congregate nearby and it’s easy to Wharf – one of the first Wapping captured and after spending a year imagine Georgian sailors going from warehouses to be converted into in Newgate prison, was tried and pub to river via Wapping Old Stairs, housing, trail-blazing the region’s found guilty of piracy in 1701, before the slimy steps adjacent to the pub. regeneration – and on to Wapping eventually being taken to Wapping’s The pub was once known as the Red Police Station (98 Wapping High Execution Dock (the exact location Cow, a reference to the colour of a St). This is where the Thames River is unknown, but it was on the shore barmaid’s hair. Grade two listed, it’s Police were founded in 1798, theft and near the Captain Kidd pub). long, thin and decorated with nautical piracy being a problem even before bric-a-brac: like all Wapping pubs, the the docks arrived. Wapping was a ABOVE: THE CAPTAIN Town of Ramsgate hangs its history lawless place, and drunken sailors, KIDD LIT ORANGE IN THE EARLY EVENING on the walls. A terrace overlooks pickpockets and prostitutes made the silver-grey sluggish river where the streets a dangerous place. The Kentish fishing boats once anchored. Police Station has a small museum Judge Jeffreys was caught in the that can be viewed by appointment. pub in the aftermath of the Glorious

• 104 • • 105 • OPPOSITE TOP: It was customary for convicted pirates The pub, named after a boat that WAPPING LOCAL to be led over London Bridge to was once moored here, previously WHIPLE, A REGULAR Wapping in a procession led by the went by the more charismatic name AT THE CAPTAIN KIDD Marshall of the Admiralty, holding a of The Devil’s Tavern. Turner, Dickens, OPPOSITE BOTTOM: silver oar. Pirates were hanged within Whistler and Pepys are all said to have THE AFTERNOON the tide marks on a shortened rope drunk at the Prospect, while a framed LUNCH RUSH AT THE that guaranteed a slow and painful picture on one wall features more CAPTAIN KIDD asphyxiation. They were left hanging recent London legends Arthur Daley from the noose for three tides, before and Terry McCann, photographed the bodies were cut down, slung in outside the pub for an episode of a gibbet cage and placed along the ‘Minder’ in the 1980s. Outside is a river at Greenwich or Tilbury as a hangman’s noose, a reference to warning to others.From the Captain Wapping’s grisly past. These are not Kidd head east past Wapping station, Wapping’s only pubs. Away from an underground station that marks the river you can findT urner’s Old the north bank entrance of the Star at 14 Watts Street – rumoured world’s oldest sub-river tunnel. The to have once been owned by the Thames Tunnel was built by father- artist Joseph Turner – and the White and-son Marc Isambard Brunel and Swan and Cuckoo at 97 Wapping Isambard Kingdom Brunel between Lane. There are restaurants too, most 1825 and 1843 for pedestrians, but notably the classy Wapping Project, soon became absorbed into the tube located in a converted old electrical network. The cobbles of Wapping substation on Wapping Wall. All these High Street give way to Wapping venues exhibit that instinctive sense Wall and eventually to the last of of Wappingness, paying respect to Wapping’s three pubs, the Prospect the past but not getting lost in it. of Whitby (57 Wapping Wall). Wander back along Wapping High Founded in around 1520, this claims Street and you’ll see another cheeky to be London’s oldest riverside inn, example of this in the name of the although that’s a disputed title. local pizzeria, Il Bordello, a subtle celebration of Wapping’s sinful past.

Turner, Dickens, Whistler and Pepys are all said to have drunk at the Prospect of Whitby, while a framed picture features more recent London legend Terry McCann.

• 106 • Wapping is a popular haunt. The on Wapping beach watching the river born dealer of exotic animals. From beach is easy to reach via the for hours at a time. And why not, his shop you could purchase zebras, numerous stairs that connect the river it’s a beautiful spot and porpoises, alligators, rhinos, ostriches, polar to Wapping High Street, and a rich seals and dolphins have all been bears, kangaroos, monkeys, leopards maritime past means there’s a fair spotted in the Thames at Wapping. and lions, as well as every kind of bird chance something of interest may be from the cockatoo to the black swan. found. For the experts, that means In the 1970s, the nature writer The writer and poet Dante Gabriel pewter badges and medieval arrow Richard Mabey noted in ‘The Rossetti was a regular customer, heads, but anybody who has a nose UnofficialC ountryside’ how the purchasing unusual creatures to on Wapping beach will find shards urban landscape still made room for add to the menagerie he kept at his of Victorian china or the remains nature to exist and this holds very Chelsea home. Rossetti had wombats, of Tudor clay pipes. The latter litter true in Wapping, where Mabey once an armadillo and peacocks – the latter the sand like pebbles and date back spotted roosting house martins. are still banned from Cheyne Walk hundreds of years. When tobacco Away from the river, the key spot is because of the noise they made – and was first introduced to London, these Wapping Woods. This is a pleasant Rossetti was one of many artists who pipes were considered disposable green park of tall trees and shaded wandered round Wapping, Limehouse so after finishing their smoke sailors spaces that sits right on top of what and Shadwell, fascinated by the and dockers would simply chuck used to be the eastern section of sights, sounds and smells of the sea. them in the river. Centuries later, they London Dock. It was planted in 1969 are still washing up in Wapping. and is now home to goldcrests, goldfinches, mistlethrush, dunnocks, Jane Parker is a mudlark with a woodpeckers and pied wagtails. particular interest in the pipes. She You can’t lose yourself here, but you regularly comes to Wapping to can find those sounds and signs of collect some to make into jewellery, songbirds that help make London which she sells from her website. living a more rewarding experience. ‘I’m looking for ones that have been pummelled by the tide, and are soft One hundred and fifty years ago, and worn at the ends,’ she says. ‘I can you may have seen even more probably find 500 usable pieces in an extraordinary beasts. On the Highway hour.’ On her trips down here, she’ll that borders Wapping was a shop regularly bump into one local, who known by Victorians as Jamrach’s brings a deckchair and sits out alone Emporium. Jamrach was a German-

green & blue

• 109 • Wright recalls: ‘I remember vividly coming through the front door, which was a rusty piece of metal. The guy took forever to undo the locks. He had this huge bunch of keys. And then it was open. There was no roof, just this structure covered in moss. There were all these metal cups that people used to drink tea from, which had huge fungi growing out of them, as though someone had said, “Cups down, guys. This is the end of the line.”’ In classic Wapping fashion, Wright saw this as a chance to reinvent the past. In 1998, she purchased the building’s freehold ART and began a process that ended with its transformation into the Wapping Project, one of the most distinctive in Wapping and consistently fascinating galleries in London. This is the one place in Wapping that draws people from all over London – indeed, from all over the world – echoing the cosmopolitan history of the old docks. The Wapping Project is a dramatic space – suitably given that Wright has a background in theatre – that allows imaginative installations to co-exist with the businesslike infrastructure of the power station. It also boasts an excellent restaurant, and in the garden there is a friendly bookshop located inside an old greenhouse.

• 110 • • 111 • Wapping has always had a creative Alumni from the Wapping studios edge. Whistler and Turner came included distinguished artists such here to paint the river, while writers as Anthony Whishaw, Chris Orr enjoyed exploring the streets to MBE and John Copnall. The artists savour the sounds and sights of a were given the opportunity to working-class community. In 1946, purchase New Crane Wharf in the the Wapping Group of Artists met at mid-1980s, but could not raise the the Prospect of Whitby and agreed funds, and redevelopment began to collectively record the changing in 1986. Right at the other end of face of the Thames, which they still Wapping High Street from the do to this day. Membership is capped Wapping Project is another aspect at 25, the painting ‘season’ runs from of Wapping’s artistic community: the April to September, and their territory Hermitage Community Moorings. stretches all the way from Henley to the Thames Estuary. More esoteric It can be hard for artists to find were the artists who moved into and retain a foothold on dry land derelict warehouses after the end of in London, so perhaps the river the docks, turning these huge spaces offers a solution. Many of the boat- into squats and studios before they owners are artists – among them is were forced out by developers. Chris Wainwright, a photographer and Head of Camberwell, Chelsea top: wapping’s industrial history This was an experience that was to and Wimbledon Art Colleges – and preserved at the be imitated right across London, the moorings were planned by wapping project from Butler’s Wharf in the south to designers and architects drawn Hoxton in the north-east. One of the from the co-operative’s ranks. The Bottom: the wapping project biggest was at New Crane Wharf, now group already have the Pier House promotes its most a residential complex on Wapping – a floating community space – but recent exhibition Wall, which was occupied by artists they hope to one day fit out a boat in the 1970s and 1980s led by Royal as a permanent floating classroom/ College graduates Ken Oliver and studio. They are currently involved in David Brown, who used the semi- the lottery-funded ‘Sense of Place’, derelict warehouse as permanent an oral history project to document studios and a space for events. Other the memories of the boatmen warehouses were similarly colonised, who worked on the tugs, barges and the artists held a number of and sailing boats of Wapping. collective exhibitions as SPACE.

• 112 • • 113 • 5 6 7 A FRY-UP IN THE HEART VISIT A POLICE MUSEUM MEET THE BOATERS OF WAPPING The Thames Police Museum, The impressive Heritage Community The Turk’s Head, 1 Greenbank, is 98 Wapping High St, can be Moorings are a permanent home the unofficial centre of Wapping, visited by appointment only. It to 18 boats, some more than 100 10 an old pub saved from desolation commemorates the founding of years old. They can be visited during Things and turned into a community the world’s oldest police force. London Open House in September. to do in café for all locals to enjoy. Wapping 1 EAT INSIDE A POWER STATION 8 RAISE A GLASS TO THE FUSCHIA The Wapping Project, Wapping Take your drink into the lovely Wall, is a restaurant and art gallery Thameside beer garden of the located inside a converted Victorian Prospect of Whitby, 57 Wapping power station. In the garden Wall, and toast the sailor who first outside is a bookshop inside a brought the fuschia into the country greenhouse. It’s that kind of place. via this pub, selling it to a local 4 gardener for a noggin of rum. DRINK WITH THE GHOST OF A JUDGE The ghost of Judge Jeffreys, 9 the Hanging Judge, is said to GO BIRDWATCHING haunt riverside pub the Town Wapping Wood is a large green of Ramsgate, 62 Wapping High space that was planted on the 2 Street, where he was seized trying GO MUDLARKING eastern site of the old London to flee the country in 1688. Dock. It is home to a truly The Wapping foreshore can provide impressive range of birds, including rich pickings for beachcombers woodpeckers and goldfinches. and mudlarks looking for shards of Victorian pottery, Tudor clay pipes, 10 DISCOVER THE OLD LONDON DOCKS medieval arrowheads and much more. These are everywhere. To take one example, head down the steps by the canal at Hermitage Basin and you’ll see Roman numerals carved on the wall: depth markings so vessels would know if the water EAT CRISPY DUCK WITH was deep enough to enter. A RIVER VIEW

River View, 16 New Crane Wharf, is a Chinese restaurant housed in the New Crane Wharf complex that 3 was home to a community of over fifty artists in the 1970s and 1980s.

• 114 • • 115 • A Wapping Timeline

600 AD/ SETTLED BY SAXONS AND NAMED WAPPING, ‘THE PLACE OF WÆPPA'S PEOPLE’ 1701/ CAPTAIN KIDD HANGED AT EXECUTION DOCK 1798/ THE MARINE POLICE FORCE is FOUNDED 1811/ THE GRUESOME RATCLIFFE HIGHWAY MURDERS TAKE PLACE 1843/ ISAMBARD BRUNEL OPENS THAMES TUNNEL 1860/ WHISTLER PAINTS FAMOUS ‘WAPPING’ PICTURE 1878/ A Bengal Tiger escapes from its owner’s cage and runs amok in Wapping 1940/ WAPPING SEVERELY ATTACKED IN THE BLITZ 1969/ THE LONDON DOCKS CLOSE AND are FILLED IN 1998/ JULES WRIGHT OPENS THE WAPPING PROJECT

• 116 • • 117 • About the writer Commissioning Editor: Peter Watts first explored Wapping Seb Emina when he spent six years writing Design: about for the Sunday Times in a marksmithdesign.com former wine warehouse that once served London Dock, itself long since filled in.H e went on to pursue his love of London history at Time Out as features writers, occasionally returning to the Wapping waterfront in search of pubs, pirates and mudlarks. Peter is now a freelance journalist, and writes for the Observer, the Times, The Sunday Times Travel Magazine, Uncut, Dazed and Confused, New Statesman and Independent on Sunday, covering everything from auctions to zoos, usually with a London angle. Notable People of A Wapping architecture Wapping reading list — — —

St John’s Old School Lemuel Gulliver Downriver Scandrett Street, lovely charity school The legendary hero of By Iain Sinclair founded in 1695, the building dates to ‘Gulliver’s Travels’ was born The Hole In The Wall 1756. There is a similar school round and lived in Wapping. By Arthur Morrison the corner on Raine Street, founded Alf Garnett by a local brewer, dating to 1719. Jamrach’s Menagerie Star character of 1970s Wapping- By Carol Birch St Peter’s Church based sitcom ‘Till Death Us Do Part’. Wapping Lane Stunning grade The Maul And The Pear Tree John Rennie I-listed church still in use. By Pd James Designer of London Bridge THE Wapping Project who built the Docks at the Dan Leno And The Wapping Wall, a grade II-listed power turn of the 19th century. Limehouse Gollum station converted into a gallery By Peter Ackroyd James McNeill Whistler and restaurant by Jules Wright. An American-born, British-based Oliver’s Wharf artist who painted ‘Wapping’ in 1860. Wapping High Street, the WW Jacobs first warehouse to be turned Author of The Monkey’s Paw, into housing and one of the born in Wapping in 1863. most beautiful examples. Other Wapping residents Past and present include; The Highway Warehouse, converted Rod Stewart, Graham Norton, into a shopping centre by Terry Helen Mirren, Cher. Farrell in the 1980s and now empty.

• 118 • ABOUT BALLYMORE

• 120 • PAN PENINSULA ONTARIO TOWER OLD BALTIMORE WHARF HIGH POINT VILLAGE BEAUX ARTS BUILDING CANARY WHARF, LONDON CANARY WHARF, LONDON LONDON LONDON HAYES, LONDON LONDON

Standing head and shoulders above any Rising 30 storeys above the river, with Since our restoration and redevelopment Unusually for a Docklands development, High Point Village offers everything you’d An award winning development of 180 loft other residential development in London, spectacular 360 degree views over of the grade 2 listed buildings at Old the first phase of Baltimore Wharf has been expect from a new, urban quarter within apartments and penthouses. Originally Pan Peninsula is a fine example of how London, Ontario Tower is already regarded SpitalfieldsM arket, it has become built using traditional materials to provide easy reach of Heathrow, Paddington, built in 1909, the Beaux Arts Building inspired thinking can rise to the occasion. as a landmark of the London Skyline. The a lively meeting place, with thriving a range of generously proportioned, the City and Canary Wharf. It has been has been transformed to offer a range of Drawing inspiration from North America residential tower is designed by the same market stalls, shops, bars, restaurants balconied apartments around a tree lined designed to offer an oasis of calm in an unique luxury loft apartments and duplex and South East Asia, Pan Peninsula is a architects who created the Sears Tower and cafés, and it is now ranked as one central boulevard. In the second phase, a otherwise driven world, giving its residents penthouses with a grand exquisitely spectacular building that has become in Chicago, the masterplan for Hong of London’s top ten visitor attractions. twisting tower of glass and steel at 150m is a sense of community often lacking in detailed foyer to the monumental façade. an outstanding London landmark. Kong harbour and Canary Wharf itself. planned to give the whole development a more anonymous city developments. dramatic and eloquent contrast of styles.

EUROVEA EMBASSY GARDENS ST. JOHN’S NEW PROVIDENCE WHARF SLOVAKIA NINE ELMS, LONDON WESTMINSTER, LONDON CANARY WHARF, LONDON

Sitting on the banks of the Danube in the Few development opportunities in London Arranged around the ancient gardens New Providence Wharf, including the From the outset, our plans for Snowhill Slovakian capital, Eurovea is a 400,000 can offer the sheer scope of the Nine of St John’s in Westminster, this is Ontario Tower and the Providence were ambitious. We were planning both sq.m mixed use river front development Elms project in Battersea. Next to the site an award winning development of Tower, stretches back some 400m from the largest commercial leasing and the of residential, retail, hotel and office of the new US embassy building, we are superior apartments close to the the river, with a depth and a substance tallest residential tower in Britain, outside accommodation, adjacent to the historic creating an entirely new district for London, Houses of Parliament and Westminster few other riverside developments have of London. Phase 1 was fully occupied in city centre. With a new public square and drawing inspiration from the residential Abbey. Originally of Neo Georgian achieved. It has received worldwide just four years, enhancing Birmingham’s a landscaped riverside park, Bratislava has and commercial estates which evolved brick and stone construction, St acclaim as a fine example of residential, position as Britain’s second city. gained a modern, urban sophistication. over time in New York and Boston. John’s is a blend of contemporary hotel, retail and leisure development. style with traditional build quality.

• 122 • • 123 • The Design Cube at Ballymore

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