J'ouvert in Brooklyn Carnival: Revitalizing Steel Pan and Ole Mas Traditions Author(S): Ray Allen Source: Western Folklore, Vol
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J'ouvert in Brooklyn Carnival: Revitalizing Steel Pan and Ole Mas Traditions Author(s): Ray Allen Source: Western Folklore, Vol. 58, No. 3/4, Studies of Carnival in Memory of Daniel J. Crowley (Summer - Autumn, 1999), pp. 255-277 Published by: Western States Folklore Society Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1500461 Accessed: 22-04-2015 17:46 UTC Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at http://www.jstor.org/page/ info/about/policies/terms.jsp JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. Western States Folklore Society is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Western Folklore. http://www.jstor.org This content downloaded from 134.74.122.250 on Wed, 22 Apr 2015 17:46:56 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions J'ouvertin Brooklyn Carnival: Revitalizing SteelPan and Ole Mas Traditions' RAY ALLEN The rumbleof distantdrums rolls across ProspectPark, breaking the pre-dawntranquility that envelopes central Brooklyn on Labor Day morn- ing. Mywatch says 4 a.m.-theJ'Ouvert celebration must be underway.Qui- etlyslipping out of myapartment into the cool of the night,I note the ironyof being late forCarnival, an eventthat by naturedefies time. Still, I quicken mypace, cuttingacross the park,drawn towards the percussive din and faintstrains of steelpan. Emergingnear the zoo entranceon Flat- bush Avenue, I come face to face witha group of devils.Cheap plastic hornsadorn heads smearedin red paintand facespowdered with white tal- cum. The ghoulishrevelers have surroundedthe Pantonicssteel orchestra, a band of fiftysteel pan playersand percussionistsmounted on two-story moveable racks.The devils,along withhundreds of less elaboratelyclad partygoers,are 'jumping up" and "winingdown" to the Pantonic's ren- dition of the popular calypso "In My House." The band and dancers pulse as one, inching down the road towardEmpire Boulevard,then bumpingup againstthe Adlib Steelband and merginginto a mile-longsea of humanity.The scene turnssurreal as I pass a huge bank of temporary lightsthat cut throughthe thickpredawn mist, illuminating the fervent crowd and the scores of police who line the streetand look on with greatdisinterest. For the next twohours I ease myway toward the frontof the "parade," passinga dozen steelbands and thousandsof merrymakers,some dressed as devils,ghosts, witches, African warriors and unrulyslaves, others in old ragssmeared with grease, mud, and paint.Many of the partygoers,dressed WesternFolklore 58 (Summer/Fall,1999):255-77 255 This content downloaded from 134.74.122.250 on Wed, 22 Apr 2015 17:46:56 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 256 WESTERN FOLKLORE in plain streetclothes, simplyline along the sides, sipping beers and sodas, enjoyingthe steelbandmusic and ole mas costumes,and dodging overzealousdevils who occasionallysling mud or paintinto the crowd.As the nighttimeslips into dawn,the J'Ouvert procession lurches down Nos- trandAvenue, past Gloria'sRoti Shop and Alan's Caribbean Bakery,and finallybegins to winddown. I catchmy breath, and likethousands of other participants,wonder if I willhave the energyto makeit up to EasternPark- waylater that afternoon for the main Carnivalevent. For more than a centuryJ'Ouvert2 "break of day" processionshave markedthe opening of Carnivalin Trinidad.Held in the predawnhours of CarnivalMonday, J'Ouvert evolved from 19th century Canboulay fes- tivals-nighttimecelebrations where ex-slaves gathered to masquerade,sing, and dance in commemorationof theiremancipation.3 When the tradition was incorporatedinto Trinidad's pre-Lenten Carnival, J'Ouvert became an arena forAfrican-derived percussion, witty satire singing, sardonic cos- tuming,and, more recently,lively steelband music (Hill 1972: 84-99; Stuempfle1995: 203-204). In contrastto the bright,fancy pageantry of Mondayand Tuesdayafternoon Carnival, Jouvert's gruesome devils and mud-coveredrevelers personify what folkloristStephen Stuempflehas called the "underworlddimension of Carnival...grimand sinisterchar- acters, dirtyand coarse costumes,and aggressiveverbal and physical action" (Stuempfle1995: 204). Historically,J'Ouvert's demonic and satir- ical masquerading,coupled withdense percussionand steel pan music, manifestCarnival's deepest challenge to order and authority,and for Trinidadian novelistEarl Lovelace, the essence of the "Emancipation spirit"(Lovelace 1998: 54). In Brooklyn,home to the largestWest Indian communityoutside the Caribbeanand hostto a Labor Day Carnivalthat draws close to twomillion participantseach year,J'Ouvert is a relativelynew phenomenon.Over the pastdecade Brooklyn'sJ'Ouvert has grownfrom small groups of Dimanche Gras (Fat Sunday) revelersto a massivepredawn celebrationattracting nearly100,000 steelband and old mas enthusiasts.This inquirywill trace the emergenceof Brooklyn'sJ'Ouvertfestival in the largercontext of New YorkCarnival, and considerthe event'srole in the revitalizationof older Carnivaltraditions in Brooklyn'sTrinidad-American community.4 This content downloaded from 134.74.122.250 on Wed, 22 Apr 2015 17:46:56 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions J'OUVERT IN BROOKLYN CARNIVAL 257 TRINIDAD CARNIVALIN HARLEM AND BROOKLYN Throughoutthe late 1920s and early1930s indoor Carnivalballs and danceswere common in Harlem'ssmall West Indian community,but itwas not until the mid-1930sthat two homesickTrinidadians, Rufus Gorin andJesseWattle, began organizingoutdoor Carnival parties. In 1947,Wat- tle managed to get an officialpermit to close Lenox Avenue for a Trinidad-styleCarnival parade featuringfancy costumed mas (masquerade) bands. In deferenceto the New Yorkclimate, the celebrationwas held in early September,on the Monday of Labor Day weekend, ratherthan duringthe traditionalmid-winter, pre-Lenten Carnival season (Hill 1994: 48-9;Kasinitz 1992: 140-141). The earlyHarlem parade, was,by Trinidadian Carnival standards, rel- ativelyconventional. Throughout the 1950s,the NewYork Amsterdam News describedthe HarlemCarnival as an orderlyprocession of politicians,dig- nitaries,beauty queens, floats,and costumeddancers.5 Police barricades separatedparade spectatorsfrom marchers, with the formeroften num- beringover 100,000.6Panman Caldera Caraballo (1996) recallsthat the event was "a restrictedparade, not reallya Carnival,"as only invited guests,masquerade bands, and communityorganizations were allowed to march. Music was provided by conventionalAmerican-style marching bands and by Trinidadianbrass (calypso) bands perched on floatsand small trucks.Calypso singerslike MacBeth the Great frontedthe brass bands, projectingtheir voices withthe aid of a microphoneand a small public addresssystem. Band leader RudyKing claims to havebrought the first steelband to the Harlem Carnival,sometime in the mid-1950s(King 1995). The crowdon Lenox Avenuewas, according to King,quite delighted,and began spon- taneouslydancing around the orchestraas the panmen moved up the avenue. By the late 1950s, King's band wasjoined on Lenox Avenue by Lawrence "Pops" MaCarthy'sHarlem All Stars and Caldera Caraballo's Moderneres.These steelorchestras were not officiallyaffiliated with a mas- querade band, nor were theyformally invited by the parade organizers. King (1995) recallsjust "showingup, in the spiritof Carnival."Caraballo (1996) claimsthe Carnivalofficials were concerned that steelbands might disruptthe otherwiseorderly event: 'You see thiswas a real parade thatwas tryingto startat point A and end at point B," he recalls,"and the steel- bands could sloweverything down, with all the people comingout on the streetand dancing around us. So theykept us in the rear."But the steel bands were toleratedby the organizersbecause theywanted to showcase authenticTrinidadian culture, and pan had become, by the late 1950s,a This content downloaded from 134.74.122.250 on Wed, 22 Apr 2015 17:46:56 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 258 WESTERN FOLKLORE central component of the Carnival celebrationback home in Port of Spain. Worriesabout disruptivebehavior became a realityduring the 1961 Harlem parade when a fightbroke out betweena panman and a parade spectator.According to an eyewitnessreport in the New YorkAmsterdam News,a steelbandmarcher crashed his pan againstthe head of an over-zeal- ous parade-goerwho was attemptingto grab his instrument.Band mem- bers and spectatorsbegan to shoveone anotheras bottlesand bricksflew. Duringthe ensuingscuffle ten people werearrested for disorderly conduct. The 9 September 1961 headline of the New YorkAmsterdam News pro- claimed "WestIndian Day Parade Ends in Riot." Meanwhile,tensions surrounding the burgeoningcivil rights movement weremaking local authoritiesincreasingly wary of largegatherings of black people. Memoriesof the 1961 disturbance,coupled witha rock-throwing incidentat the 1964 Harlem Carnival,led to the revocationof the Lenox Avenue parade permit. Rufus Gorin moved to Brooklyn,where he attemptedto reestablisha Labor Day Carnival.Following the 1965 immi- grationreforms, central Brooklyn was rapidlybecoming the hub of West Indian culturein New YorkCity. For severalyears Gorin's Carnivalcele- brationstook the formof huge block partiesand spontaneousparades in Brooklyn'sCrown