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Fade to Black BRIDGET INDIA IN FASHION FOLEY’S Lakme Fashion Week saw a slew of new designers on DIARY: the runways as the market continues to soar. PAGE 8 The Case for Marc at Dior. PAGE 12 THE B-T-S UNIFORM Denim Sales Surge On Price Cuts, Color By ARNOLD J. KARR DENIM IS BATTLING the calendar, the economy and the rest of fashion to maintain its status as teen- agers’ favorite back-to-school wear. And thanks in part to aggressive price promotions, it ap- WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 24, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 pears to be winning as b-t-s selling enters its home stretch. The b-t-s season got off to a strong start before hit- WWD ting a bit of a midsummer lull and jeans sales, a criti- cal component of the season, generally have followed suit. While the remaining b-t-s dollars are being held onto tightly by cautious consumers, colored denim has continued to show notable strength, in many cases outstripping relatively modest supplies, and skinny and even skin-tight silhouettes, often in stretch denim, are quickly gaining favor with female teens and young adults. Retailers, vendors and ana- lysts have also reported positive reactions to darker washes and cropped-bottom jeans but were less en- thusiastic about fl ared-bottom models. Despite price increases brought on by the higher cost of cotton, jeans continue to serve as an impor- Fade tant promotional lure for stores. Observers give Abercrombie & Fitch Co. high marks for the “reen- gineering” of its denim assortment to incorporate different fi ts, silhouettes and fabrics, but just as im- portant to the recent success of its jeans offering has been its aggressive pricing policy, at both the fl agship To and Hollister divisions, which in many cases has seen prices cut by 50 percent. Michael Jeffries, chairman and chief execu- tive offi cer of A&F, told investors on the company’s second-quarter conference call last week, “We are Black very optimistic about our [denim] offerings, and we Dark jeans have long would hope that, over time, the U.S. could become less promotional.” He added, “I think it’s clear, and been a classic in the everyone should understand, that our back-to-school denim market, but who strategy was to get our new fi ts on as many new cus- says they have to be tomers and old customers as possible.” Analyst Janet Kloppenburg, president of JJK plain? Certainly not Joe’s SEE PAGE 6 Black Collection, whose cotton and rayon pair IN WWD TODAY with mesh slashes, shown here with Kimberly Ovitz’s Little Retail Damage in Quake PAGE 2 viscose and silk sweater, NEWS: Stores and malls in and around Washington, are anything but basic. D.C., escaped signifi cant damage in the 5.9-scale earthquake that hit the region Tuesday. Eugenia Kim turban; Raven by Raven Kauffman Department Stores Get Social PAGE 2 Couture clutch; Camilla SOCIAL MEDIA: The latest Digital IQ Index ranked stores by digital profi ciency — and Macy’s, Victoria’s Skovgaard boots. For Secret and Nordstrom led the list. more, see pages 4 and 5. PAGE 7 EspritL Revamps in U.S. RETAIL: The brand is starting over again in America, integrating its four apparel labels into one to forge a stronger identity in consumers’ minds. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY MODEL: ROZA/SUPREME; HAIR BY KAYLA MICHELE AT ATELIER MANAGEMENT FOR REDKEN; MAKEUP BY JEN MYLES AT WORKGROUP LTD. USING NARS; SHOT ON LOCATION AT THE NEW YORK CENTER OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE MOVING IMAGE, NYCPMI.ORG IMAGE, MOVING THE AND PHOTOGRAPHY OF CENTER YORK NEW THE AT LOCATION ON SHOT NARS; USING LTD. WORKGROUP AT MYLES JEN BY MAKEUP REDKEN; FOR MANAGEMENT ATELIER AT MICHELE KAYLA BY HAIR ROZA/SUPREME; MODEL: 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 24, 2011 WWD.COM Earthquake Shakes Up East Coast Social Media Stalwarts damage is found before the mall opens today. By VICKI M. YOUNG AND KRISTI ELLIS Joe Frye, general manager of Stony Point Fashion By RACHEL STRUGATZ Park in Richmond, which features such stores THE D.C. AREA WAS hit by an earthquake of a 5.9 as Saks Fifth Avenue, Louis Vuitton and Brooks NEW YORK — It’s the year of the department store. magnitude at 1:51 p.m. Tuesday and parts of down- Brothers, remained open after the earthquake, The category posted growth in retail market share for the town Washington were evacuated, but no major inju- which he estimated was centered about 70 miles fi rst time in nearly three decades — and it just might have ries or damage to stores or malls was reported. from Richmond. something to do with innovative digital strategies, according A 2.8 magnitude aftershock hit the area near the Frye said there were no evacuations at the cen- to Scott Galloway, New York University marketing professor epicenter about an hour later, according to the U.S. ter, which is an outdoor fashion destination. and co-founder of NYU think tank Luxury Lab, which re- Geological Survey. A second followed about 20 min- “We were a little surprised that it happened in leased its second annual Digital IQ Index ranking specialty utes later, this time of a 2.2 magnitude. More after- this part of the country,” Frye said. “You don’t antici- retailers according to their online competence. shocks were expected. pate this on the East Coast, but we have not heard of Macy’s took the number-one spot in the survey, which The USGS said that the epicenter of the earth- any other businesses in the region being damaged at used a 350-point data system to rate retailers in digital com- quake was near Mineral, Va., about 87 miles southwest all. There was no structural damage to our [fashion petency, spanning categories such as social-media strategy, of Washington. The initial preliminary report was a center] and we did not have a noticeable change in site interface, mobile-commerce capabilities, digital mar- magnitude of 5.8, but that was later upgraded to 5.9. our foot traffi c.” keting, search engine optimization and more. U.S. Capital buildings were evacuated. There It appeared to be business as usual as well in “To be at the top of the pack, you have to make invest- have been no reports of injuries or damage. Phone Georgetown, home to several clothing boutiques, ments in social and mobile. You have to be at the forefront of service in the D.C. area, however, was intermit- said Meredith Sandacz, manager of Relish, an up- digital investments,” Galloway said, adding the fi ndings mim- tent throughout the afternoon. In addition, the scale contemporary specialty boutique located there. icked fi nancial performance, indicating that companies in- National Park Service as a precaution temporar- “We felt it for sure,” she said. “It was rattling win- vesting in digital mediums are increasing shareholder value. ily closed the Washington Monument, Lincoln dows and a pair of Balenciaga heels fell off the shelf Rounding out the top 10 were Victoria’s Secret, Nordstrom, Memorial and Jefferson Memorial while it inspect- but that was it. Sephora, Urban Outfitters, Threadless.com, Bluefly, ed the structures to ensure that they remain sound “People are still out and about and, for the most Bloomingdale’s, Gilt Groupe, Net-a-Porter and Pottery Barn. before reopening to visitors. part, stores are open,” Sandacz said. “I don’t think it Neiman Marcus and Saks Inc. also scored well, and Bergdorf A spokesman for Macy’s Inc. said the fl agship in will affect our sales. It will be a conversation piece Goodman ranked 22nd the downtown D.C. area was briefl y evacuated, but more than anything.” — which is surprising that the store later reopened. The Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, owned by considering it has only At Tysons Corner Center in McLean, Va., owned Simon Property Group Inc., which is across the river one brick-and-mortar and operated by The Macerich Co., 50 percent of the from Washington in Arlington, Va., also remained location and is com- 300 retailers closed after the earthquake, according open after the earthquake, although it could not be peting in the digital to Elizabeth Natwick, senior marketing manager. learned whether any stores closed. realm with retailers Retailers and customers were evacuated during The quake was felt as far away as North Carolina that boast hundreds of the earthquake. and New York, with many in Manhattan feeling of- doors, such as Macy’s “We’ve given direction to our retailers to check fi ce buildings shake. Parts of Philadelphia report- and Victoria’s Secret. with their corporate offi ces to follow their instruc- edly also felt the quake. According to the tions on what they would like them to do in regards A spokesman for Simon Property Group Inc. said study, the average to closing for the entire day,” Natwick said. “Fifty none of its shopping centers had been affected, Digital IQ for depart- percent of our stores are open right now and we are while a spokeswoman for Taubman Centers Inc. ment stores grew 14 monitoring as best we can.” noted, “It was felt at our Virginia centers, but there points from 2010 — Of the center’s four anchors — Lord & Taylor, was no interruption in business.” coming in second to Nordstrom, Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s — only Lord In Manhattan, trading at the New York Stock The Macy’s homepage. e-tailers for highest & Taylor remained open after the earthquake, ac- Exchange and at the Nasdaq Markets continued, but category IQ — a telling statistic about the impact of digital, cording to Natwick.
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