BRIDGET IN FASHION FOLEY’S Lakme Fashion Week saw a slew of new designers on DIARY: the runways as the market continues to soar. PAGE 8 The Case for Marc at Dior. PAGE 12

THE B-T-S UNIFORM Denim Sales Surge On Price Cuts, Color

By ARNOLD J. KARR

DENIM IS BATTLING the calendar, the economy and the rest of fashion to maintain its status as teen- agers’ favorite back-to-school wear. And thanks in part to aggressive price promotions, it ap- WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 24, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 pears to be winning as b-t-s selling enters its home stretch. The b-t-s season got off to a strong start before hit- WWD ting a bit of a midsummer lull and jeans sales, a criti- cal component of the season, generally have followed suit. While the remaining b-t-s dollars are being held onto tightly by cautious consumers, colored denim has continued to show notable strength, in many cases outstripping relatively modest supplies, and skinny and even skin-tight silhouettes, often in stretch denim, are quickly gaining favor with female teens and young adults. Retailers, vendors and ana- lysts have also reported positive reactions to darker washes and cropped-bottom jeans but were less en- thusiastic about fl ared-bottom models. Despite price increases brought on by the higher cost of cotton, jeans continue to serve as an impor- Fade tant promotional lure for stores. Observers give Abercrombie & Fitch Co. high marks for the “reen- gineering” of its denim assortment to incorporate different fi ts, silhouettes and fabrics, but just as im- portant to the recent success of its jeans offering has been its aggressive pricing policy, at both the fl agship To and Hollister divisions, which in many cases has seen prices cut by 50 percent. Michael Jeffries, chairman and chief execu- tive offi cer of A&F, told investors on the company’s second-quarter conference call last week, “We are Black very optimistic about our [denim] offerings, and we Dark jeans have long would hope that, over time, the U.S. could become less promotional.” He added, “I think it’s clear, and been a classic in the everyone should understand, that our back-to-school denim market, but who strategy was to get our new fi ts on as many new cus- says they have to be tomers and old customers as possible.” Analyst Janet Kloppenburg, president of JJK plain? Certainly not Joe’s SEE PAGE 6 Black Collection, whose cotton and rayon pair IN WWD TODAY with mesh slashes, shown here with Kimberly Ovitz’s Little Retail Damage in Quake PAGE 2 viscose and silk sweater, NEWS: Stores and malls in and around Washington, are anything but basic. D.C., escaped signifi cant damage in the 5.9-scale earthquake that hit the region Tuesday. Eugenia Kim turban; Raven by Raven Kauffman Department Stores Get Social PAGE 2 Couture clutch; Camilla SOCIAL MEDIA: The latest Digital IQ Index ranked stores by digital profi ciency — and Macy’s, Victoria’s Skovgaard boots. For Secret and Nordstrom led the list. more, see pages 4 and 5.

PAGE 7 EspritL Revamps in U.S. RETAIL: The brand is starting over again in America, integrating its four apparel labels into one to forge a stronger identity in consumers’ minds.

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY MODEL: ROZA/SUPREME; HAIR BY KAYLA MICHELE AT ATELIER MANAGEMENT FOR REDKEN; MAKEUP BY JEN MYLES AT WORKGROUP LTD. USING NARS; SHOT ON LOCATION AT THE NEW YORK CENTER OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE MOVING IMAGE, NYCPMI.ORG IMAGE, MOVING THE AND PHOTOGRAPHY OF CENTER YORK NEW THE AT LOCATION ON SHOT NARS; USING LTD. WORKGROUP AT MYLES JEN BY MAKEUP REDKEN; FOR MANAGEMENT ATELIER AT MICHELE KAYLA BY HAIR ROZA/SUPREME; MODEL: 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 24, 2011 WWD.COM Earthquake Shakes Up East Coast Social Media Stalwarts damage is found before the mall opens today. By VICKI M. YOUNG AND KRISTI ELLIS Joe Frye, general manager of Stony Point Fashion By RACHEL STRUGATZ Park in Richmond, which features such stores THE D.C. AREA WAS hit by an earthquake of a 5.9 as Saks Fifth Avenue, Louis Vuitton and Brooks NEW YORK — It’s the year of the department store. magnitude at 1:51 p.m. Tuesday and parts of down- Brothers, remained open after the earthquake, The category posted growth in retail market share for the town Washington were evacuated, but no major inju- which he estimated was centered about 70 miles fi rst time in nearly three decades — and it just might have ries or damage to stores or malls was reported. from Richmond. something to do with innovative digital strategies, according A 2.8 magnitude aftershock hit the area near the Frye said there were no evacuations at the cen- to Scott Galloway, New York University marketing professor epicenter about an hour later, according to the U.S. ter, which is an outdoor fashion destination. and co-founder of NYU think tank Luxury Lab, which re- Geological Survey. A second followed about 20 min- “We were a little surprised that it happened in leased its second annual Digital IQ Index ranking specialty utes later, this time of a 2.2 magnitude. More after- this part of the country,” Frye said. “You don’t antici- retailers according to their online competence. shocks were expected. pate this on the East Coast, but we have not heard of Macy’s took the number-one spot in the survey, which The USGS said that the epicenter of the earth- any other businesses in the region being damaged at used a 350-point data system to rate retailers in digital com- quake was near Mineral, Va., about 87 miles southwest all. There was no structural damage to our [fashion petency, spanning categories such as social-media strategy, of Washington. The initial preliminary report was a center] and we did not have a noticeable change in site interface, mobile-commerce capabilities, digital mar- magnitude of 5.8, but that was later upgraded to 5.9. our foot traffi c.” keting, search engine optimization and more. U.S. Capital buildings were evacuated. There It appeared to be business as usual as well in “To be at the top of the pack, you have to make invest- have been no reports of injuries or damage. Phone Georgetown, home to several clothing boutiques, ments in social and mobile. You have to be at the forefront of service in the D.C. area, however, was intermit- said Meredith Sandacz, manager of Relish, an up- digital investments,” Galloway said, adding the fi ndings mim- tent throughout the afternoon. In addition, the scale contemporary specialty boutique located there. icked fi nancial performance, indicating that companies in- National Park Service as a precaution temporar- “We felt it for sure,” she said. “It was rattling win- vesting in digital mediums are increasing shareholder value. ily closed the Washington Monument, Lincoln dows and a pair of Balenciaga heels fell off the shelf Rounding out the top 10 were Victoria’s Secret, Nordstrom, Memorial and Jefferson Memorial while it inspect- but that was it. Sephora, Urban Outfitters, Threadless.com, Bluefly, ed the structures to ensure that they remain sound “People are still out and about and, for the most Bloomingdale’s, Gilt Groupe, Net-a-Porter and Pottery Barn. before reopening to visitors. part, stores are open,” Sandacz said. “I don’t think it Neiman Marcus and Saks Inc. also scored well, and Bergdorf A spokesman for Macy’s Inc. said the fl agship in will affect our sales. It will be a conversation piece Goodman ranked 22nd the downtown D.C. area was briefl y evacuated, but more than anything.” — which is surprising that the store later reopened. The Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, owned by considering it has only At Tysons Corner Center in McLean, Va., owned Simon Property Group Inc., which is across the river one brick-and-mortar and operated by The Macerich Co., 50 percent of the from Washington in Arlington, Va., also remained location and is com- 300 retailers closed after the earthquake, according open after the earthquake, although it could not be peting in the digital to Elizabeth Natwick, senior marketing manager. learned whether any stores closed. realm with retailers Retailers and customers were evacuated during The quake was felt as far away as North Carolina that boast hundreds of the earthquake. and New York, with many in Manhattan feeling of- doors, such as Macy’s “We’ve given direction to our retailers to check fi ce buildings shake. Parts of Philadelphia report- and Victoria’s Secret. with their corporate offi ces to follow their instruc- edly also felt the quake. According to the tions on what they would like them to do in regards A spokesman for Simon Property Group Inc. said study, the average to closing for the entire day,” Natwick said. “Fifty none of its shopping centers had been affected, Digital IQ for depart- percent of our stores are open right now and we are while a spokeswoman for Taubman Centers Inc. ment stores grew 14 monitoring as best we can.” noted, “It was felt at our Virginia centers, but there points from 2010 — Of the center’s four anchors — Lord & Taylor, was no interruption in business.” coming in second to Nordstrom, Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s — only Lord In Manhattan, trading at the New York Stock The Macy’s homepage. e-tailers for highest & Taylor remained open after the earthquake, ac- Exchange and at the Nasdaq Markets continued, but category IQ — a telling statistic about the impact of digital, cording to Natwick. employees at Goldman Sachs near Ground Zero and given that the latter are native to the medium. The catego- There was no “severe structural damage” to the at UBS at its Midtown offi ces were evacuated. ry as a whole went from “average” to “gifted” status, and center although minor damage, such as fallen tiles, In New York City, a spokeswoman for Coach Inc., Macy’s and Nordstrom were even labeled “genius” in terms was apparent, she said. which has its headquarters on 34th Street near Ninth of innovation in mobile, social and branded sites. Natwick noted center offi cials will continue to as- Avenue, said the offi ce felt some “slight vibrations.” But Galloway contends that the most dramatic changes sess the damage and notify retailers if substantial — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM SHARON EDELSON this year occurred within the mobile space, with two thirds of retailers now having mobile sites, versus just 25 percent a year ago. Retailers on Twitter have also jumped to 52 per- cent, up from 28 percent last year. Brioni Confi rms Exit From Women’s “Mobile and social innovation is so torrid right now. You can’t move forward at a trot, because the industry is moving MILAN — Brioni said Tuesday it plans to close its manufacturing plant in Congiunti, Italy, which was ex- at a gallop. If you move ahead at a steady pace, you will fall women’s business and that it is severing ties with clusively dedicated to the production of the brand’s behind,” Galloway said. the line’s creative director, Alessandro Dell’Acqua. women’s collections, will be shut down in September. While this might have been the year of the department store It is also canceling the brand’s women’s fashion However, Pesci on Tuesday denied “the existence and mobile commerce, Galloway believes that Facebook com- show during Milan Fashion Week next month. of previous plans to strengthen distribution and any merce — or F-commerce — will be the next big thing in digital. This confi rms a story in WWD Tuesday. other connection with other rumors on the company Gilt Groupe launched F-commerce Monday with a Facebook Brioni’s chief executive offi cer, Francesco Pesci, published [by the press] in July.” store, allowing fans to purchase directly on the medium using said the decision was prompted by a need “to refo- According to sources, Brioni’s latest course of ac- their Gilt.com user names and passwords, and Rachel Roy pio- cus the company’s resources on its men’s wear busi- tion is part of the ongoing talks between PPR and neered the commerce platform in February 2010. Galloway ex- ness, which has recently become more competitive Brioni about the French luxury group acquiring the pects many to do the same in the coming months. and global.” Italian brand. “Almost 100 percent of brands cite Facebook as a source Pesci said the company “expressed its regret” in Brioni tapped Dell’Acqua as creative director of of upstream traffi c,” he said, citing Burberry as an example ending the collaboration with Dell’Acqua, thanking the women’s line in May 2010 to raise the division’s of the medium’s impact. “[Burberry] is getting more traffi c him for the work he has done on the brand. profi le and the collections have been generally well- from Facebook than Google. It’s the largest source of traffi c The executive said he has contacted the unions in received. The tie-up with Dell’Acqua was supposed to its site. Brands are transitioning from spending money on order to initiate industrial and employment decisions. to be a long-term investment for the company. Google into Facebook programs. All of this [Facebook] traffi c An industry source told WWD on Monday that Brioni’s — LUISA ZARGANI and investment is leading towards commerce.”

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The ProcTer & Gamble calvIn KleIn Inc. norma KamalI comPany Inc. Tom Murry Norma Kamali Robert A. McDonald on Global Reach on the Power of Stories on Purpose-Inspired Leadership

InTernaTIonal hudson’s bay herberT mInes creaTIve manaGemenT comPany assocIaTes Carol Goll Richard A. Baker Harold D. Reiter on Branded Entertainment on Department Store Renewal on Talent Development

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Sponsored by: 4 WwD wednesday, august 24, 2011

Washborn’s cotton and Lycra denim jacket with Acne’s silk taffeta denim ballgown. Eugenia Kim turban; Carolina Amato gloves.

It’s Getting Dark Denim gets an edge on holiday with rich black hues paired with everything from a fanciful gown to a traffic-stopping backless dress. — Kim Friday

PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE AT THE NEW YORK CENTER OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE MOVING IMAGE. THE EXHIBITION “NEW YORK TEMPORARY” IS ON DISPLAY THROUGH SEPT. 30; NYCPMI.ORG. WwD wednesday, august 24, 2011 5 WWD.COM

Genetic Denim Stand & Deliver’s lamb Visionaries Series’ leather and silk wool dress cotton jacket with and waxed cotton twill, studded sleeves and spandex and leather jeans. Enza Costa’s Modal jersey wrap skirt. Brian Atwood pumps. POGGI LAUREN ASSISTANT: PHOTO DRENNON; KATHRYN ASSISTANT: FASHION ; nars

USING LTD. WORKGROUP AT MYLES JEN BY MAKEUP REDKEN; FOR MANAGEMENT ATELIER AT MICHELE KAYLA BY HAIR ROZA/SUPREME; MODEL: 6 WwD wednesday, august 24, 2011 denim Denim Aces Test

For B-T-S Bucks {Continued from page one} The NPD Group, dollars spent Research in Scarsdale, N.Y., pointed out, on women’s jeans declined 1.5 “Retailers right now are using denim as percent to $8.5 billion in the 12

a traffic driver. The idea is to bring them months ended June 30 despite into the store with a good value price a 0.2 percent increase in units point on denim. The good news is that to 373.2 million. Average prices they’ll often buy two tops for each pair of dropped 1.8 percent to $22.77. jeans and get extra markup on the add- In all cases, the percentage on purchases and possibly higher mark- performances were inferior to up overall.” ’’ those of the women’s sportswear Because of the imbalance between market, where sales fell 0.4 supply and demand, Kloppenburg be- percent to $66.59 billion. While lieves that colored denim will not only men’s sportswear experienced bolster stores’ margins but transcend increases of 3.6 percent and 3.7 b-t-s selling and become an important percent in dollars and units, re- part of the third- and fourth-quarter of- spectively, jean sales were down ferings as well. “Colored is hot and it’s 3.3 percent, to $5.17 billion, and not ubiquitous, at least not yet,” she said. units were off 2.8 percent, to “Red seems to be the best color and royal 219.8 million. blue is selling very well, too. And the im- Marshal Cohen, NPD’s chief portance of color in jeans should also industry analyst, said the num- enhance the retailer’s opportunity to sell bers indicate a far more discern- the right tops to go with the new jeans.” ing consumer who, at least in During recent recent weeks, conference calls, a might have number of retailers been shocked reported that, while Color is the by economic their denim is sell- events into ing well, it could be overwhelming an even more doing better if not tight-fisted for supply issues. approach to Lisa Harper, ceo trend right now. spending. of Hot Topic Inc., “The con- said that the firm — Eric Beder, Brean sumer is ac- had done away with cepting price the $19 promotions Murray, Carret & Co. increases but “that lasted almost in some cases the entire month of August last year, and trading down, and that’s become some other aggressive promotions,” and easier because so many of the instead opted for a buy-one-get-one-free midtier and even lower-midtier offer that’s “very consistent with the type stores are doing a better job of Abercrombie & Fitch “reengineered” of promotional activity that’s out there in getting a product to the consumer its denim for fall, and put it on sale the juniors market.” The retailer is look- that has some of the same attri- at deep discounts. ing to build a year-round denim business butes as the higher-end people,” in both men’s and women’s and, with the he said. “A lot of stores are bring- jeans, is on the wane, that the teen is help of better marketing and “the right ing a premium-type product to finding other things, other styles, other fits and finishes,” believes it is on the the consumer at not-so-premium looks which are appealing to them?” right track. prices. I don’t think it’s as much Thomas Johnson, Aéropostale’s Harper’s only complaint: “We basi- a matter of people buying differ- ceo, replied, “We do believe that cally are running out of inventory in ent things or less expensive things there’s been a change in the young denim.…We didn’t anticipate it being ’’in a particular store; there’s less girls’ uniform, predominantly on the this successful, but we are restrained by store loyalty and more of a shift in girls’ side of the business.…And we’re inventory situations at this point which the stores where people are shopping.” online for just about everything,” reacting and responding accordingly, and we’re chasing.” That tendency has been accelerated, Cohen stated. “Now, they’re going on the we do feel that we have the right strat- Susan McGalla, ceo of The Wet Seal he noted, both by the recent fragile state Internet to find jeans they want at a price egies in place to capture that changing Inc., said that core denim at $19.50 is of the economy and by the longer-term their parents can live with.” market.” “certainly working” but that quality is- trend towards Internet and social media While many schools have already “There has to be something new,” Jeff sues had left the firm with less denim use. Recent stock market declines and opened in the South and Southwest, Van Sinderen, analyst at B. Riley & Co., than it had planned. global debt worries have put parents in the bulk of b-t-s shopping still lies told WWD. “Fifteen-year-olds may grow Overall, however, lack of demand has a more somber mood and less inclined to ahead. According to a study conducted out of their jeans, but a lot of women been a bigger problem than lack of sup- spend heavily on their kids’ jeans. “The by BIGresearch and released by the have a lot of denim in the closet already ply. According to figures tabulated by junior consumer is someone who goes National Retail Federation Tuesday, 28.3 and they’re looking more towards dress- percent of consumers had yet to begin es. Today, a merchant needs the right shopping for the season as of Aug. 11, up combination of colors, washes, silhou- from 26.8 percent a year ago. But 35 per- ettes, and if it’s not the right combina- Women’s Jeans Sales cent had done at least half of their b-t-s tion, it’s got to be marked down. In many U.S. purchasing, up from 34.7 percent last cases this season, it’s price increases and Jeans Sales by Retail Channel year. The three most popular destina- their effect on AUR [average unit retail] tions for those with shopping still ahead that’s driving comps up.” 2011 2010 Change Channel Share Change Women's of them were discount stores (56.9 per- Shopping the aisles at the MAGIC Specialty Stores 41.4% 1.6% cent), department stores (47.1 percent) market, Eric Beder, managing director of Dollars $8,497.2 $8,629.7 -1.5% Department Stores 13.7% -1.0% and clothing stores (40.8 percent), trailed equity research at Brean Murray, Carret Units 373.2 372.3 0.2% by office supply stores (33.4 percent) and & Co., was struck by how upbeat most re- National Chains 13.0% 0.0% Average price $22.77 $23.18 -1.8% online shopping (21.7 percent). tailers appeared and how recent events Mass Merchants 13.0% -0.9% While fashion and novelty have hadn’t pulled them off their generally Men's Off-Pricers 9.6% -0.2% helped denim sales hold their own in positive sales plans for the remainder of a tough economy, there is concern that the year, in denim and elsewhere. Dollars $5,170.2 $5,344.1 -3.3% Direct/E-tail Pure plays 4.3% 0.1% some junior customers have moved on. “Color is the overwhelming trend Units 219.8 226.2 -2.8% Factory Outlets 1.2% 0.0% Richard Jaffe, analyst at Stifel, Nicolaus right now,” he said. “That usually dis- Average price $23.52 $23.62 -0.5% All Other 3.8% 0.5% & Co., asked executives at Aéropostale appears for fall but I think it will carry Inc. last week, “Is it possible that the through 2011. I can see stores stocking teen uniform that you and other retailers yellow into December. It’s such a great SOURCE: The NPD Group. Figures at left are for 12 months ended in June of respective year. Dollars and units in millions. at right, in the teen sector have specialized in… trend, a reason to buy which just wasn’t Share of U.S. sales attributable to distribution channel for 12 months ended June 2011 and change from prior year. of graphic [T-shirts] and hoodies and torn there last year.” WwD wednesday, august 24, 2011 7 WWD.COM Esprit Rejiggers Lineup, Gisele Bündchen for Esprit. Revamps Ad Campaign “In the past, we had all these differ- By Sharon Edelson ent brands,” said John Gunn, continental president of Esprit North America. “A lot Esprit is revisiting the drawing of customers didn’t know the difference board once again in the U.S. between the names. We tried to target an The company is consolidating its differ- overlapping and different clientele. Edc ent apparel brands into a single moniker was for an 18- to 24-year-old customer. in an effort to simplify the assortment for Our target consumer is now a woman who consumers. Esprit’s brands include wom- is ‘forever 30.’ Now the brand will be say- en’s casual, women’s collection, de.corp ing the same thing to all women. In the Esprit Urban Casual and edc by Esprit, past we were even using different size with each brand multiplied by 12 for the blocks. Nine months from now, we’ll be to- number of collections produced each year. tally aligned — one brand direction. Some There’s the same dizzying array for men, brands are still a little bit off on their and kids have edc youth by Esprit, Esprit own. It’s a completely different mind-set shoes and ESP Esprit sports. from what we were used to in the past.” The moves come as there are reports Esprit might once again look to pull out of Erin Wasson North America, which it has done before. in one of the Gunn declined to comment, as did new ads. Esprit global business headquarters in Ratingen, Germany, saying the company does not comment on rumors. Same-store sales at Esprit’s North American stores declined 4.9 percent in the fiscal first half ended Dec. 31, 2010, compared with a 1.7 percent drop in Switzerland, became Esprit’s director of Esprit stores are being redesigned Europe and a 0.6 percent increase in the brand and new business, and Jan Nord, once again. The company created its Asia-Pacific region. Esprit in the first half H&M’s former creative director, joined largest unit in the world in Frankfurt by opened 13 new stores in North America, Esprit as creative director of brand and adding two floors to an existing flagship. for a total of 95. new business. The design features open areas in the Esprit has left the U.S. once before. “With Jan and Jörgen, there’s a lot floors and ceilings so to show off the en- The brand floundered when found- of kinks to figure out,” said Gunn of the tire “world of Esprit” at a glance. Gunn ers Susie and Doug Tompkins filed for new strategy in North America. But he said the new design elements will come divorce and continued to slide when believes they are taking the brand in to the 34th Street flagship at some stage. the recession hit in the early Nineties. the right direction. “We took all of the A new ad campaign featuring Erin Esprit Holdings Ltd., which is based in divisions and put them into dressing mo- Wasson and Gisele Bündchen will be in Hong Kong, in 2002 bought the logo and ments,” said Gunn. “For example, we ran Esprit stores next month. “Using Erin the U.S. rights and has taken moves to a whole white story this summer. Now, the and Gisele has really elevated the brand,” improve the business, including opening denim story is not in three locations on said Gunn. “We were a little disjointed be- an 18,000-square-foot flagship on West three different floors. In January, when tween how our stores looked and how the 34th Street in Manhattan in 2010. we buy the spring season for stores, we product and marketing looked. We were In October, Jörgen Andersson, for- won’t be buying by division, we’ll be buy- trying to go after the 28- to 34-year-old mer chief executive officer of H&M in ing the 10 best dresses.” woman and showing 18-year-olds in ads.” Bendon, Pleasure State Merge MAC and Milk Alter Partnership — New Zealand intimate apparel manufacturer Bendon and its Australian rival Pleasure State said Tuesday “It hones the craft of our makeup artists and keeps they have merged their operations. By Lisa Lockwood the skill set of our makeup artists at a high level,” Pleasure State co-founder and Bendon’s chief executive of- said Demsey. It also enables the company to turn ficer of 15 months, Sydney-based Justin Davis-Rice, will lead the NEW YORK — After four seasons, MAC & Milk has a backstage makeup trends into products. “No brand new company. Also on board is Bill Wavish, the former execu- new name and partnership arrangement. has the depth of involvement with the fashion brands, tive chairman of ’s Myer department store chain, who Starting with the September fashion shows, the and we’re the ‘go-to’ brand for emerging design tal- was recently appointed as nonexecutive chairman. name of the shows will change to Made, Presented ent. We’re here to bring to life the designer’s inspira- Financial details of the merger were not disclosed. by MAC. According to sources, Made has signed tion or creative vision,” he said. Often, makeup looks Founded in in 1947 and acquired by New Zealand on Creative Artists Agency as a partner, and Lexus on the runway become trends that people wear. entrepreneur Eric Watson’s Cullen Investments Ltd. in 2003, as a sponsor. Neither Mazdack Rassi, founder and Demsey noted that following New York Fashion Bendon is the manufacturer/global licensee of seven inti- creative director of Milk Studios, nor CAA officials Week, they’re able to tweak shades that go on coun- mate apparel brands, including Bendon, Fayreform, Elle could be reached for comment. ter several months later. “We’re able to pick up Macpherson Intimates and Stella McCartney, with offices in The original concept of MAC & Milk was to be a major trends and countercultural trends,” he said. Sydney, , New York and Hong Kong, and sales in excess community incubator for emerging design talent, Generally, MAC will use about 10 to 20 makeup art- of 150 million New Zealand dollars, or $124.86 million. and that will continue. There was no cost for the ists backstage at any given show. Unquestionably, he According to a spokeswoman, the company will re- designers to participate in the shows, and that re- said they’ll see an uptick in their cosmetics business main known as Bendon and continue to be headquartered mains. This season, Made, Presented by MAC will following a fashion week. in Auckland. sponsor 37 shows/presentations. Among the shows in which MAC will provide In a statement, Davis-Rice said the merger announcement John Demsey, group president of the Estée makeup artistry this season are Proenza Schouler, is part of an “aggressive growth strategy” for the company. Lauder Cos. Inc., which owns MAC Cosmetics, con- Altuzarra, Prabal Gurung, Nicole Miller, Diane He said, “Bendon’s size and scale make the company a domi- firmed that MAC will continue to collaborate with von Furstenberg, Carolina Herrera, Donna Karan, nant force in the Australasian intimate apparel industry. We be- Milk Studios, and is the official makeup sponsor at Ohne Titel, Jason Wu, Alexander Wang and Peter lieve the intimate apparel and swimwear market is ripe for con- Made, Presented by MAC. Som. MAC will also host a private dinner celebrat- solidation, and we intend to capitalize on this opportunity.” MAC, which generates more than $1 billion in ing Gurung’s show. In addition, on Sept. 16 MAC will Watson, the co-founder of failed New Zealand finance sales and whose financial commitment to New York support the opening reception of Daphne Guinness’ company Hanover Finance, will retain an undisclosed Fashion Week is in the seven figures, has increased Museum at FIT exhibit, which runs Sept. 16 through Bendon stake. Watson’s special purpose acquisition company, its show budget by 25 percent this year. It contin- Jan. 7. Endeavour Acquisition Corp., completed a reverse merger with ues to be the largest sponsor of New York Fashion In other activities, MAC Cosmetics will partici- American Apparel in December 2007, before selling down its Week, and is the largest working makeup brand pate in Fashion’s Night Out on Sept. 8 at its SoHo lo- minority holding in 2009. during New York Fashion Week. MAC has deep- cation. Beth Ditto will be at the store, where she will Founded in 2004 by Davis-Rice and former Elle ened its relationship with designers backstage at perform three songs. In addition, performance art- Macpherson Intimates designer Kay Cohen, Pleasure State is Lincoln Center, as well as in off-site presentations ists Gill & Jill Bumby will be in attendance, provid- distributed in Australasia, Europe, the United Arab Emirates and events. Although it doesn’t have the front-of-the- ing “fair and honest appraisals of your appearance.” and the U.S. The company’s hero product is the BioFit uplift house sponsorship at Lincoln Center — that spon- The following night, MAC will sponsor the bra, which was launched into the U.S. market in 2005 as a sorship is held by Maybelline — MAC is extremely BOFFO Building Fashion program. BOFFO is a Victoria’s Secret exclusive. involved both backstage at Lincoln Center and in nonprofit arts and culture organization based in Bendon currently has five stores and 11 outlets in Australia other venues. This September, MAC will provide Manhattan that provides exhibitions and events that and 14 stores and 16 outlets in New Zealand. makeup artistry to 95 fashion shows. Worldwide, showcase collaborations with artists and designers. The Pleasure State merger announcement follows a pe- MAC is involved with 23 fashion weeks, ranging MAC will sponsor the Nicola Formichetti and Gage/ riod of turmoil for Bendon, which has undergone numerous from Mexico City and São Paulo, Brazil, to , Clemenceau Architects installation. Each architect’s executive reshuffles since 2008, as New Zealand became one Copenhagen and Sydney. collaboration will transform 57 Walker Street in of the first developed economies to fall into recession. Demsey cited multiple reasons why MAC Manhattan into an original retail environment, ro-  — Patty Huntington Cosmetics has become so involved in fashion weeks. tating every two weeks. 8 WwD wednesday, august 24, 2011 WWD.COM Lakme Fashion Week Sees Spate of New Designers brands into the country and that Indian By Mayu Saini A Rohit Bal design. wear now does a far higher volume of business. There also are some areas — India is seeing a ground- where Indian designers have a niche. swell of new designers. “Take Babita M, for instance,” she said, As the fashion market in India is esti- “whose Metal Morphosis collection this mated to grow from $39 billion in 2010 to week could really compete with interna- $63.26 billion in 2012, more and more de- tional labels. It was high end and beauti- signers are launching businesses to tap ful and is in a class of its own.” into the country’s growing disposable in- Designer duo Anita Walia and Anna- comes as well as opening new malls and Liza Ganguly, who go under the label of stores that can house new brands. The Deux A, flew in from Paris to be a part number of Indian designers is growing of the event. Their jersey-based outfits fast, with more than 90 showing at Lakme took center stage with the idea of graph- Fashion Week here from Aug. 16 to 21. ics carried through the collection and a The country’s fashion weeks have been little bit of men’s wear. As for showing adding to the hype and awareness of fash- at Lakme, Walia said, “We want to be on ion, especially the two major ones — Lakme the map. IMG is known for fashion world- Fashion Week and the other organized by wide and we want to be associated with the Fashion Design Council of India and any of their events.” held in New Delhi. Most designers agree A fashion duo from Canada, Retarded that each has established its niche. Velvet, was busy at The Source, with buy- The six-day Lakme Fashion Week, ers viewing their more Western styles which started with an elaborate set of de- and cuts in wool and jersey, and prints signs by one of India’s best-known coutu- inspired from Africa and other parts of riers, Rohit Bal, saw a focus on vivacious the world. “It’s been a great experience oranges, wild greens, and both pure and being here,” said one of the designers, printed yellows in flowing, full silhou- Theresa James. “We have made a lot of ettes. There was less bling than last sea- contacts and plan to move here by next son, but embroidery hasn’t gone out of year to change our production base.” style with gold thread as well as cutwork, Thamer Al Abduljaleel and Areej Al appliqué work, sequins and beads. Kharafi, owners of Kuwait-based Love

This year, the fashion week was held Fortune Cookie, have been regular buy- earlier than usual so that the designer ers at Lakme Fashion Week and said labels will be available in time for the they find Indian designers very talented. festive season starting in October. “That Their hope is that there will be “more is part of the strategic planning,” said benchmarks and set prices in what the Anjana Sharma, director of fashion for designers offer at the [exhibition], which organizers IMG Reliance, who is looking sometimes vary from buyer to buyer.” at growing the event in terms of both col- Aparna Badlani, owner of the retail laborations, scope and designers. store Atose in Mumbai, said that “while Anil Chopra, chief executive officer many of the designers have outdone them- of sponsor Lakme Lever, unveiled a few selves at the event,” she was pleased to additions for this season. The Source ex- see a greater focus on fabrics rather than hibition saw an increase in the number ’’ embroidery and embellishments. of designers showing as well as design- The use of unusual fabrics and layer- er- and buyer-related activities, he said. ing were a major part of the shows even There was a Webcast of the shows spon- as embellishments remained popular, es- sored by Fashion and You, a private sales pecially in the large number of bridal de- club with 2.1 million members. signs, as the wedding season is just about While designers are still unhappy to begin and is really the big business in India for designer apparel.

A look A style from from Nachiket Swapnil Barve. Shinde.

Its an up-and-coming market — a whole new revolution is coming up. — Sabyasachi Mukherjee

with the number of buyers, the com- new talent who can come up with abso- plaints about the designers participat- lutely wild and unusual ideas, and we ing have petered out, with some of the have been watching them with a growing best known taking part including Bal, interest,” Kumar said. JJ Vallaya, Wendell Rodricks, Narendra His own show at the Lakme event was Kumar, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Rina inspired by the Great Gatsby era, pre- Dhaka, Anita Dongre, Neeta Lulla, Pria sented with Frank Sinatra music sung live Kataria Puri and Manish Malhotra. by a trio of men and focusing on formal “We have also introduced Berlin men’s eveningwear with slim leg trousers. Calling, where a designer will represent Mukherjee, another established de- India at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week signer, commented, “Its an up-and-com- 2012 in January in Berlin. Lakme Fashion ing market — a whole new revolution is Week will not only support the selected de- coming up.” signer in presenting the runway show but His collection was presented’’ with co- will also ensure that the opportunity is lev- ordinating colors showcasing ethnic fash- eraged effectively in representing Indian ion. His advice to younger designers at fashion internationally,” said Sharma. the event was simple: “To succeed glob- Lakme Fashion Week focuses on re- ally, you have to succeed at home.” sortwear and has a strong glamour com- Falguni Zaveri, owner of the retail ponent with Bollywood stars attracting store chain Fuel, said the Lakme event a lot of media attention and coverage. It is “very good for business” because his also added new and upcoming design- team was able to see all the talent under ers in the GenNext section, pointed out one roof. While Fuel carries designs for Kumar, a well known designer who is both Indian and Western wear, she said also a board member of the fashion week. Western wear by Indian designers has “The event is known for bringing up been hit by the huge influx of Western FRAGRANCE FEEDBACK: Selena Gomez is asking for fan input on the ingredients for her fi rst scent. WWD STYLE PAGE 11 THE WRITE STUFF Mags Eye Hollywood As Option for Profi t

By ZEKE TURNER

EARLIER THIS YEAR, Dan P. Lee, a writer on MEDIASTYLE contract for New York WWD magazine, was working on a story about the life of Anna Nicole Smith. He was trying to write and report the story of her life — her marriage to the octogenarian billionaire who she met working the day shift at a strip club, her legal battle with his family over his will, her descent into reality television infamy and, ultimately, her death. He gathered so much dialogue in his reporting that he decid- ed to hand in his fi rst draft to New York fea- tures editor David Haskell as a screenplay. Haskell sent the piece back to his writer. “My editor was like ‘Are you on drugs? What the f--k?’” Lee said. On Haskell’s advice, Lee rewrote the piece as conventional narrative nonfi ction and fi led a second draft. “I understood Haskell’s point — and obviously it’s [editor Adam] Moss’ too — that no matter what disclaimer they would use at the top, it’s a very jarring jump for a reader to make that they’re reading a screenplay in a magazine,” Lee said. “Screenplays, I don’t know if you’ve read many of them, but they just feel very fi ctional when you read them.” But Lee was onto something with his fi rst draft. Within a few weeks he got word that a fi lm production company in Los Angeles was interested in optioning rights to his 8,000- word story, “Paw Paw & Lady Love,” which ran in New York’s Best Doctors issue in June. Now writers are at work turning Lee’s mag- azine story back into a screenplay. He de- clined to comment on the size of the deal. Magazines have always sent their stories off to Hollywood — movies like “Saturday Night Fever,” “American Gangster,” “Goodfellas” and “Grey Gardens” all began as stories in New York, as did television shows like “Taxi” — but this summer they’ve become more aggressive. New York and The Atlantic have signed contracts with International Creative Management to help formalize the process of turning stories into fi lms or TV shows. Todd Hoffman, one of the fi rm’s top agents, will oversee deal-making for the magazines when fi lmmakers take an interest to one of their stories and also mine the magazines’ archives for old stories that weren’t scooped up by Hollywood when they fi rst came out. The New York Times has had a similar relationship with Hoffman for more than fi ve years. Whether these new contracts will change the role of writers like Lee, who have long Rudd Wrestling fi elded their own requests from fi lmmakers Paul Rudd was in demand at the New York screening of his latest fi lm, and even signed on with agents of their own, is unclear. Equally unclear is whether these “Our Idiot Brother,” on Monday night. Alicia Silverstone, his once-upon-a-time deals will make any difference to the maga- zines, since Hollywood’s tradition of buying “Clueless” co-star, had a bit of an inside track. For more, see page 12. fi lm rights has never been a major money- maker for the publishing world. The details and structures of differ- ent deals depend largely on the magazine’s rules and relationships with the writers (at The New Yorker, for example, all writers re- tain full copyright to their work and many of them, accustomed to spinning their stories into larger projects, have their own agents). At the Times, it’s more cut and dried: the newspaper owns everything. “The Times owns all of the content so it’s ours to rep- resent and to do with what we want,” said PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER {Continued on page 10} 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 24, 2011

Harvey Weinstein, Henry Finder, Jacob Weisberg, Kurt Andersen, Tina Brown and Adam Moss BY WALKER/GETTY BROWN H. ANDREW BY FINDER VOS/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; EICHNER; DE STEVE AMBER BY BY WEINSTEIN ANDERSEN RAGOZZINO/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM IMAGES; WILL BY MOSS KINDERSLEY/GETTY DORLING FARRELL/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; BY BILLY BY PHOTO SIGN ZIEGLER/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; WEISBERG HOLLYWOOD IMAGES; JONATHON

Mags Step Up Hollywood Pursuits

{Continued from page 9} Most of the time, optioning a magazine summer are much smaller than that. ICM was not a big move for the maga- Stephanie Serino, the director of domes- story presents a bargain for a fi lmmaker, Gluck, whose role as deputy editor at zine. “The Talk era was an era of excess tic sales and licensing at The New York as in the case of Lee’s story for New York New York has recently grown to include so you had people launching very grand

Times Syndicate. on Smith, which was much cheaper to the new effort to get the magazine’s con- ambitious plans and this era is an era of At New York magazine, the terms of option than her life rights, according to tent onto other platforms (“movies, TV smart strategic bets. We’re not spending a the deals will depend on the magazine’s several sources familiar with these deals. shows, books, apps, podcasts”), said that penny to do this and certainly Talk spent agreement with different writers. “What Call it “‘The Social Network’ syndrome,” he spends a few minutes every week a lot to do what they were up to.” we’ve tried to do in every case is be at or in which a fi lm is based on accounts cre- reading the magazine through the lens of Not that East Coast magazine editors beyond the industry standard for what a ated by a writer, not on somebody’s life. what could be optioned in the issue. He and writers ever give up on the Hollywood writer is entitled to,” said New York dep- New York’s and The Atlantic’s deals said the biggest’’ incentive behind sign- dream, even if it is mainly a mirage. uty editor Jon Gluck. “We want the with ICM are a far cry from the gran- ing with the agency was “getting every “Hollywood is essentially in the busi- writers to share in any benefi t diose vision of East Coast-West story its greatest possible audience and ness of not making movies,” said Henry we have, and that’s the simple Coast synergy in the Nineties exposure. That’s why we do this in the Finder, editorial director of The New bottom line.” New York’s de- with Talk Magazine. Editor in fi rst place — we like people to read our Yorker. “They only make a movie when cision to sign with ICM was chief Tina Brown at the time stories.” they run out of reasons not to not make it.” driven by Moss, the editor, not described Talk as a sort of So far this summer only one piece But packaging, one of the things maga- by the business side. MEDIASTYLE “cultural search engine” for from the magazine, Robert Kolker’s zine editors spend the most time thinking “I’d love to be able to say, WWD Harvey Weinstein’s then-studio cover story about the still-at-large Long about, happens to be a very useful com- ‘Yeah, this is a big additional Miramax, which was fi nancing Island serial killer, has been sold to Sony modity for fi lmmakers in the early stages revenue stream, moneymaking the magazine. under the ICM arrangement (ICM also of getting their projects off the ground. opportunity,’” said Jay Lauf, the pub- “If you’re Harvey Weinstein and brokered the deal to sell Lee’s story, but “It’s not that the audience is all ex- lisher of The Atlantic. “It’d be probably you’re Tina Brown or if you’re anybody that wasn’t through the magazine’s ar- cited because it used to be an article in sexier to be able to say that, but it’s not.” who runs a magazine, it’s a very tempt- rangement with the agency). Gluck de- Vanity Fair,” Finder explained, “but if “Let’s just say it’s not a huge part of ing vision,” said Andersen, who has split clined to say how much Sony paid for I’m trying to get talent attached it might our business,” said Serino at the Times his time over the last decade between Kolker’s story. be easier for me to say, ‘Hey look, Brad about selling the newspaper’s reportage creative work, like his three novels and to television and fi lm production entities. screenplays — he’s sold two of them in “It’s exciting and glamorous if you’re addition to a joint collaboration on a a magazine writer and fi ve or 10 or 20 pilot for HBO with Lawrence O’Donnell Hollywood is essentially in the business or 50 or whatever thousand dollars is — and nonfi ction work for magazines free money,” said former New York edi- and newspapers. “Oh, look all these writ- of not making movies. They only make a movie tor and Spy Magazine co-founder Kurt ers out in the world fi nding these fasci- Andersen. “But how big of a business is nating narratives; it’s this vertical inte- it? I don’t know.” gration we can create and we can get the when they run out of reasons not to not make it. One source who has deep experience stories before they’re stories.” Andersen with magazine stories being picked up by continued: “That sounds good but the — HENRY FINDER, THE NEW YORKER fi lm and television producers cited a typ- difference between saying it and doing it ical example of writers receiving around is obviously more diffi cult.” $4,000 to $5,000, or even less, to option a “If you look at the magazine articles story. If the story gets made into a fi lm, that made really good movies, they’re New York has also recently hired Pitt, there’s this really cool story that was there might be an additional $20,000 in generally speaking using the article as Frank Rich as an editor at large. Rich, in Vanity Fair or Rolling Stone’ — it’s purchase rights. More high-profi le maga- a point of departure,” said W editor at like Tina Brown, signed on with HBO in going to be based on that.” zine stories have been optioned for clos- large Lynn Hirschberg. “It’s a fun idea 2008 as a creative consultant, but in the He continued: “Unless I have an ac- er to $50,000 with purchase rights in the to feel like one idea is feeding the other, last three years only one project he has tual screenplay, what am I giving you, an hundreds of thousands, especially when and I wish it was more than it is, but re- consulted on, “Veep,” has made it into idea? An idea feels very vaporous. A two- multiple parties are interested in bid- ally I think it’s more of a fantasy that the production. According to an HBO spokes- page treatment? That’s not very appeal- ding on the project. magazine business is going to feed the man, Brown’s relationship with the cable ing. But here’s a real factual article that In 2007, at the top of the market, movie business.” channel has not produced any projects has appeared in a national publication. Universal Pictures paid $2 million for On the other hand, there’s Vanity Fair that made it past the development stage. It gives it some sort of solidity.” the rights to Warren St. John’s reporting editor in chief Graydon Carter, who has The Atlantic hasn’t sold anything through Actually Finder, Andersen, Slate edi- for a front-page New York Times story, managed to edit a magazine that cov- the ICM deal yet, although, according to tor in chief Jacob Weisberg’’ and New which grew out of a book he was work- ers Hollywood while producing his own Lauf, there has been interest from the Yorker writers David Grann and Tad ing on while on leave from the paper, fi lms, throwing the quintessential Oscars fi lm world in the past to option stories Friend have started a private collec- about a soccer team of refugee children party and collecting consultant fees. In like Lori Gottlieb’s “Marry Him! The case tive of their own — a writers’ bungalow in Clarkston, Ga. An additional $1 mil- 2004, Universal Pictures reportedly cut for Settling for Mr. Good Enough,” and of sorts. They meet about once a month, lion is promised if the movie gets made. Carter a check for $100,000 after he sug- Hanna Rosin’s “The End of Men.” usually at a cafe in the afternoon, to The Times, St. John, the subjects of his gested that “A Beautiful Mind,” which “I think it’s a function of the climate come up with fi lm ideas, separate from story and his book publishers all split was based on a book excerpted in Vanity we’re in, the same with all over media,” their work as editors and journalists. the money. Deals of that size are no lon- Fair, be made into a fi lm. Gluck explained about the new crop of They haven’t tried to sell any of their ger possible. The deals that have cropped up this deals, emphasizing that signing on with ideas yet. WWD wednesday, august 24, 2011 11 WWD.COM Fashion scoops Beauty Beat BECAUSE I’M WORTH IT: L’Oréal heiress so do the lightweight twill shirts. It’s just Gomez Enlists Fans’ Help for Scent Liliane Bettencourt and L’Oréal chief back to good clean clothes that aren’t executive officer Jean-Paul Agon are among overtreated or overdone.” Most pieces Adrenalina will manu- business figures sending an unusual for men and women wholesale in the By JULIE NAUGHTON Selena facture and distribute the message to the French government: $75 to $95 range (leathers go up to $500) Gomez to-be-named scent world- Tax us more, please. A petition to and Perlman said retailers such as Ian’s THE CELEBRITy fragrance wide, said Ilia Lekach, be published in this week’s Nouvel in Seattle and Hall’s in Kansas City saw game is about to get a new chairman of Adrenalina. Observateur, and previewed on its Web the line, but that they only reached out player: actress-singer “I am excited to make es site Tuesday, calls for Nicolas Sarkozy to to about 30 key stores. “We’re not trying Selena Gomez. G my own fragrance that is ma i institute a “special contribution” from to get into a Barneys or Bergdorf’s yet; The 19-year-old Gomez, romantic, rich and sweet the superwealthy to ease the bulging we’re just letting ourselves see where who plans to release — I wanted to make a public debt that has roiled markets. A this goes. It’s been fun.” her scent in 2012 with fragrance that is able to total of 16 people signed the petition, Adrenalina Inc., has chosen make my fans feel spe-

including executives from oil giant CUCINELLI’S CHARITY: Brunello Cucinelli a unique way to develop it. oczarski/Getty cial,” noted the actress. b Total, Air France and advertising group plans to donate 1 million euros, or $1.43 Her fans will be invited to Gomez also fronts a Publicis. It notes that any measure million at current exchange, to help log on to selenagomezper- line of apparel, shoes should be “reasonable” and not tempt restore the Etruscan Arch in Perugia, fumes.com later this fall to Daniel and accessories called the rich to exit France for tax havens. Italy. Also known as the Arch of Augustus, vote on accords and ingre- by Dream Out Loud, which

it dates back to the dients they prefer for the photo is distributed by Kmart. A VEGAS RETURN: third century B.C. fragrance. The most popu- The actress stars as Lucky Brand and is one of the lar notes will be incorporated into the fin- Alex Russo on Disney Channel’s “Wizards of founders Gene symbols of the city, ished scent. The first 50,000 participants Waverly Place,” which has won two Emmys Montesano and as the main gate into will receive a free sample of the fragrance for Outstanding Children’s Program. Gomez Barry Perlman are the north side of and will be entered into a drawing to win also appeared this summer in the film back at it in Vegas, the historic center. a tour of the fragrance lab with Gomez. “Monte Carlo,” opposite Leighton Meester. this time with Perugia is located Gomez’s camp said Tuesday that the de- Gomez is currently on a national tour their latest brand, about 10 miles from velopment process is intended to create a promoting her third album, “When the Civilianaire, which Solomeo, a medieval stronger connection with her fans. Sun Goes Down.” launched earlier hilltop village in this year with stores the central Italian on Los Angeles’ region of Umbria, Third Street and where Cucinelli’s Exec Committee Changes at L’Oréal in Montecito and Gene Montesano and Barry Perlman company is based. limited distribution The entrepreneur plan to acquire one billion new custom- in boutiques such as Ron Herman, E bought Solomeo’s 14th-century castle and By NINA JONES ers in the next 10 to 15 years. Skinsgley Street Denim and American Rag. The surroundings in 1985, and has since then has been with L’Oréal since 1986, and has laid-back duo showed the line in a restored the entire village, adding a new JEAN-PAUL AGON, chairman and chief served as head of several of the group’s suite at the Wynn Tower, choosing to theater complex in 2008. executive officer of the L’Oréal Group, businesses and countries, including the stay off the MAGIC floor. “This is the This step follows Tod’s chairman made key appointments Tuesday to the U.K., India and the Netherlands. way we started Lucky 35 years ago,” and chief executive officer Diego Della group’s executive committee. Jerome Tixier will succeed Skinsgley said Montesano, adding, “not much has Valle’s decision to sponsor the three-year Geoff Skinsgley, formerly managing as managing director, human resources. changed with us, but the shows have restoration works on the Colosseum in director of human resources for Paris- Tixier, who has been with L’Oréal since changed. Right now, you couldn’t put Rome with a donation of $36.5 million. based L’Oréal, has been appointed to the 1980, has held a variety of roles and was us at a trade show unless we had our The executive has been urging Italian new position of managing director of the most recently adviser to the chairman, own spot in the parking lot.” Perlman entrepreneurs to take action and support Africa and Middle East zone. L’Oréal said charged with linking with L’Oréal’s board called the new line, for which they have works on crumbling sites throughout the new position is part of the company’s on human resource and governance is- adopted more of an immediate open- the country, a venture he has dubbed strategy to accelerate its expansion in sues. Tixier will retain this role when he to-buy business model, a return to his “Project Italia.” Diesel chief Renzo Rosso countries with “high population growth takes on his new human resources posi- roots. “I still love denim and fabrics. For is rumored to be planning to finance rates and significant long-term econom- tion. Both appointments are effective Oct. me, these poplin cargo pants feel great, works on the Ponte di Rialto in Venice. ic potential,” which in turn is part of its 1, and both executives will report to Agon. Escada: Spring 2012

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On the theatrical Kirsten world, Rudd launched poster for his new film Dunst in into a pair of horror Say at Nike “Our Idiot Brother,” a stories. The first Balenciaga very hirsute and Crocs- with Sarah involved a friend who Just sign Marc Jacobs for Dior. sporting Paul Rudd lies Sophie may or may not have There is, quite simply, no one better suited in a field, chin in palms, Flicker in urinated on his sofa. to assume the mantle of the house founder, looking absurdly content. Marchesa. The second involved a the mantle later borne so exquisitely for long “You look at that and sleepwalking pal who stretches by Yves Saint Laurent and John you just think, ‘Man! definitely urinated Galliano. You got those crops and in his closet. The Fashion is all about opinion. I have been a field of flowers,’ it common quirk was “accused” of being a major Marc fan. I am. almost forces you there,” not lost on Rudd. I’m a bigger fan of my daughter, but when she Rudd explained of the “I’ve got all these was six and asked if she was the best hoofer happy glaze at a Cinema peeing stories,” the in Ms. McNamara’s Irish step-dancing class, I Bridget Foley’s Society- and Altoids- actor said with a wide told her no, in fact quite the opposite. I surely Diary sponsored screening smile. “He was still wouldn’t have thought her Riverdance chorine of the film in New York so half asleep that material. Monday night. “[You’re] he walked out of my Often, matters of talent (or in the aforementioned case, lack thereof) projected into a world of room and then went are black and white. Objectively, Marc is a brilliant designer. Objectively, happiness and 20-minute- into the bathroom he is among those very few who have impacted some aspect of the larger long Phish songs.” and took my contact culture. In the smaller fashion sense, season after season his two shows Rudd joined a few lenses out of the case are among the handful that get the insider audience excited in advance. other members of the and threw them in Those elements alone don’t make Marc right for Dior. A checklist of cast, including Hugh Dancy the toilet and flushed specifics does. Marc’s work encompasses a joy and a breadth of the sort and Steve Coogan, for the them. And I don’t have essential to a behemoth such as Dior; on so vast a scale, edge must be screening at 1 MiMA disposable contacts. wrapped in some degree of prettiness (or vice versa) to better promote Tower, a newish luxury I don’t know what the total brand sales from scents to sunglasses. building on the far west hell that was about. Marc reveres fashion but is not a slave to that reverence. He loves to side of 42nd Street. Kirsten That was a nightmare. work a reference, make hay with it and make it distinctly his own. Dunst, Alicia Silverstone, eye I totally hadn’t thought For all of his two-decades-plus reputation as an idol of, and purveyor Georgina Chapman, Nicole about that until of fashion for, the young, a side to Marc’s work swings very chic, adult Miller and Cynthia Rowley you asked me that and elegant, as a perusal of the fall merch now in-store proves. also turned out for the Keren question. Those were Over the years, his runway designs for both his New York collection viewing, staged on an Craig and $500 contact lenses. and Louis Vuitton have become increasing hand-worked; one can only outdoor patio where the Georgina They were custom- imagine what wonders might be realized with the hallowed Dior couture film was projected onto Chapman made because I have atelier at his disposal. the side of the building. astigmatism. They The setup, it’s weren’t disposable. worth noting, treated That motherf----r owes Marc moviegoers to something me $500!” Jacobs of a double feature. Continuing the Several windows of the role-reversal trend, apartments above the Coogan, who in the screen played host to film plays one half of suspiciously well-toned a put-upon couple, silhouettes in various diagnosed his actual states of undress during self as a surfer. the screening. On Tuesday “I crash on the morning, a representative couch,” the actor said. for MiMA-owner The “I normally fall asleep Related Cos. said it wasn’t on the sofa in my aware of the sideshow. house in front of the As for the main TV, so….” attraction, “Our Idiot It sounded as if he Brother” follows an was surfing his own affable stoner, played by couch. Rudd, who spends time More party “Yeah,” he said couch surfing between pictures at confidently. “Which is three sisters of varying like one step up, right? goodwill. Asked whether WWD.com/ I’m a successful stoner.” he was more likely to eye. — MATTHEW

o crash or host in the real LYNCH n ui q A

hn o J by o t o h p Debt Consolidation As for his potential impact on the Dior accessories business, one An enthusiastic crowd made word: Murakami. Whether collaborations such as those forged with its way to the Tribeca Grand Hotel on Takashi Murakami, Stephen Sprouse and Richard Prince would work at Monday night to toast the “The Debt,” Dior — why not? om a remake of an Israeli spy thriller that A shift for Marc to Dior would leave a gaping hole at cash cow Vuitton. an.c spans 30 years and multiple continents,

WWD’s Miles Socha has reported that negotiations are heating up this mull and stars Helen Mirren and Jessica Chastian c week and that should Jacobs move to Dior, Phoebe Philo is a likely can- m as a Mossad agent in her older and ck didate for Vuitton and, under that scenario, would retain her Celine du- ri younger incarnations. at p ties as well. Philo, hotter than hot, is a designer with a remarkable con- / Guests including Olivier Theyskens, Billie TE nection to her customer. A major part of that connection has been her S Jean King, Zac Posen, Damon Dash, Darren E great way with accessories. While that workload and current minimalist L and partied in the CE Criss Justin Bartha mode (though let’s not forget she was more decorative during her Chloé hotel’s basement, where Chastain was a days) suggest that her Vuitton would be less fanciful than Marc’s, major JIMI center of attention. by houses hire high-profile designers for their distinctive aesthetics. That’s “What about when I took ’em down?” ebt” the point. D the actress crowed, brandishing “ ; Which transitions to the current fashion conversation about which r a finger gun at Gina Gershon before

should have ultimate supremacy: designer or brand. If my name is chne eventually laying across an ottoman Ei Arnault, Pinault or Wertheimer, I’m probably going to go with the brand, with two friends, apparently to aid all the more so because of recent, sudden devastating designer depar- breathing in her tightly corseted tures at two highly creative houses. But how does one secure that long- Steve powder-blue Dior dress. by term brand supremacy? Would Chanel be Chanel if Mr. Wertheimer had OS “I haven’t seen ‘Tree of Life’ yet, T O made a different hire in 1983? Similarly, the ring of Dior has been ma- H but she was really wonderful in this,” P ” jestic since 1946; could anyone argue other than that the appointments r Theyskens said. of Saint Laurent and Galliano fueled that longevity? Conversely, though the Alice St. Clair agreed, “[Chastain is] so Jessica Chastain on a different scale, look what happened at Bill Blass. And how have the ro cool,” the actress said with a grin, “and b in Dior with t revival attempts at Halston fared? At Dior, couture only ups the ante, io obviously Helen Mirren, too. The film Helen Mirren in both for marketing and sales purposes. A couture lady can take her five Id was amazing.” Michael Kors.

or six figures to team Dior or Karl’s Chanel. Hmmm. “OUR — Alessandra Codinha