Need a Swim Platform?

2000-#4 COLUMNS SHOPTALK Floor Saver: Many older run abouts have rotted or delaminated plywood floors and floor supports. Here’s a solution that will likely outlast the original construction. By Wayne Redditt DIY MECHANIC GETTING TO KNOW YOUR DIESEL ELECTRICAL When problems occur, a systematic approach to maintenance and trou- Fine Tuning DC Power bleshooting can save you time and money and often get you underway Systems: Heavy-duty wire again. Here’s what you need to know to keep your diesel humming. connection and switching devices add a dimension of flexibility in DC (direct current) MAINTENANCE system planning and installation, as well as improved A BOATER’S GUIDE TO PROPANE safety. Here’s how to choose Here’s all the information you need to survey your boat’s LPG system and the best equipment for your appliance installations, including warning label details and quick-reference next upgrade. checklists for ABYC standards’ compliance. By Kevin Jeffrey By Susan Canfield

GOOD BOATKEEPING Clip-On Canvas Anchors; UPGRADE Wire Camouflage. By David & Zora Aiken DECK COVERINGS Departments Dull, faded and worn deck surfaces crying out for a renewed finish that looks good, gives protection to the fiberglass beneath, and one that Q&A: Plug-in Overload; Balancing provides a secure footing for the crew, can be a do-it-yourself project. A Power and Gravity; Fine Tuning Not professional tells you how to apply non-skid over new or existing decks Always the Remedy; When Tanks Peel; using Interlux paint finishes. Restoring Canvas Decks; Bad By Bob Wright Engineering Impairs Cooling; Tips for No Starts; When Zincs Go Astray ANNUAL REFIT

DIY TECHNICAL HELPLINE FIBERGLASS Build A Swim Platform

Tech Tips A collection of ENGINES Home Balancing of • Marine Propellers • boat-tested tips. Filter Dirty Water

RIGGING Help For Tired Pedestals • Sail Chafing Gear

ELECTRONICS Install A Closed-Circuit TV System • Automatic Anchor Lights • “Smart” Electrical Installations

WOODWORKING Custom Hardtop Enclosure

STARBOARD Easy-to-Make Swim Platform • Gluing StarBoard • 8 Things to Make of StarBoard

MAINTENANCE Unusual Teak Cleaner

CANVAS Sew a Companionway Hatch Cover Talkback +AFor more information on these or any other topics, go to Q www.diy-boat.com, at the home page click on “Search” and type in specific keywords (i.e. diesel, epoxy, gelcoat, MerCruiser,outboard, etc.). Balancing Power and Gravity Fine Tuning Not Always Technical Helpline 1(888) 658-BOAT Q: I own an Osprey Eagle 5.6m the Remedy Plug-in AC Overload (18') RIB, which I use for diving. The Q: My 1989 9m (30') Tollycraft Q: My French-built Lagoon 37 cata- boat takes water over the transom in sedan sport cruiser, powered with maran has a 110-volt, 30-amp bad weather when moored and twin 5.7L 260 hp MerCruisers, fails shorepower receptacle but a 220- deck space is very limited when the to reach maximum rpm at wide- volt breaker on the AC panel, one outboards are fully tilted forward. I open throttle (WOT). It develops European-type shorepower plug in propose to fabricate another tran- 3,100 rpm to 3,500 rpm, depend- the galley and a 220-volt automatic som and bolt it to the existing tran- ing on load, number of passengers battery charger connected to two som; engines would mount on the and sea conditions. According to battery banks. If I simply replace the false transom. To stop the ingress of the original owner (I purchased it in 220-volt breaker on the AC panel water, I would raise the height of the ’97), the boat has run at this rpm with a 110-volt breaker, can I plug original transom. If the engines are since new. Because I wanted to in 110-volt appliances to the shore- moved further back will the boat, increase fuel economy — 32 gph to power plug in the galley? Will the especially the transom, be able to 35 gph at 2,000 rpm per my water heater run on 110 power? I cope with the strain? Floscan meters — and I thought the would also like to install a Heart Olly Agbebi, “Jaffa,” Muscat, Oman boat would run better, I changed the 2000 inverter. Can I use the existing props from factory original 17x16 A: A number of things happen wiring? How do I connect the 220- to 16x15 Dymalloy props. The rpm when you move engines further aft, volt battery charger so I can charge increased to 3,700, but there was without increasing the length of the my batteries at the dock when I’m in no noticeable improvement in fuel bottom of the boat. First, and most the French West Indies, but other- economy. The engines have been important, is the shift in the center of wise have it out of the loop when recently tuned, both carbs rebuilt, gravity (CG). This causes the boat to I’m plugged into 110 power? fuel filters changed at normal inter- float lower at the stern when at rest, George Chester, “Wivus,” vals and the bottom gets profession- which will compound the water-over- Fernandina Beach, Fla. ally cleaned monthly. Any sugges- the-transom problem. Secondly, it tions? A: It appears that your boat’s inte- will cause the boat to behave differ- Mike Morelli, Kailua, Hawaii rior has been wired completely for ently when underway. A boat is 220-volt AC. I’m not sure why there designed with an optimum trim is a 110-volt shorepower inlet; there angle for the speeds it’s expected to A: When repropping a larger boat, should be a 220-volt inlet some- achieve. This trim angle determines it’s normal for the rpm to change by where. I don’t like the idea of mixed the safety of the vessel when plan- approximately 100 to 150 rpm for voltages, so I’d choose 110-volt as ing. Moving the engines further aft each inch of pitch, say changing your AC source. You must rewire the alters the CG and center of buoy- from a 19" pitch to a 17" pitch boat for 110-volt AC including all ancy (CB), and this may lead to which raises the rpm by 200 to 300 breakers, outlets, polarity indicators, uncontrollable porpoising (pitching) at WOT. You reduced the props by water heater elements, etc. Install or a dangerously low trim angle. As 1" of pitch and the engine WOT the inverter then use your existing for the strain on the transom, it’s my rpm increased corresponding to this 220-volt charger when in European experience with RIBs that they formula. Therefore, I would conclude cruising areas. (You’ll need a 220- develop cracks in the area where that the boatbuilder did not equip volt shorepower inlet if there isn’t the transom and bottom meet due to the boat originally with correctly one installed already). Simply plug flex in the side tubes. If you under- sized propellers. If the boat cannot into the 220-volt outlet and let that take this modification perhaps you reach its recommended maximum charge your batteries, then use the should install some beefy gussets rpm at WOT, engine damage could inverter to produce the 110 power from the top of the transom to the occur, such as detonation. Other to run the AC system. floor of the boat. contributing factors to a low rpm — Kevin Jeffrey — Wayne Redditt condition could be a hook in the boat bottom, incorrect center of gravity, boat balance (i.e. When you need help with a overloaded bow area), too little gear ratio, poor fuel problem, or are unable to find quality or the engines are compromised and do not perform to spec. information on products, or do- — Jan Mundy it-yourself projects consult the TECHNICAL HELPLINE. When Tanks Peel Q: I’m rebuilding a Pearson Triton sailboat. The water Cost is FREE to DIY subscribers. tank is between the berths in the forward cabin. The interior surface is peeling in thin white sheets. I plan to cut a Send your questions via mail or e- large access hole in the top and resurface the entire inte- mail. Include your name, subscriber ID rior with something safe for potable water. How best to number (if known), boat name and proceed? home port. Describe symptoms in Dan Glick, “Jubilant II,” Annapolis, Maryland detail and include manufacturer, brand, year built and other pertiment A: Until you remedy the condition, the tank will be impos- information. sible to keep clean with flaky particles trapping algae as well as the obvious problem of loose flakes clogging the MAIL: water system. Before you proceed, you’ll need to deter- P. O. Box 22473 mine the tank material. If it’s fiberglass, completely Alexandria, VA 22304 remove all of the degrading material, dry the tank surfaces completely and prep the interior surface of the tank E-MAIL: [email protected] with 80-grit and apply an appropriate epoxy barrier coat rated for use with potable water. The Devoe Coating division of Amercoat manufactures the Bar-Rust line of epoxy TECHNICAL HELPLINE paint, one of which is a potable water tank liner. Various other epoxy coatings are also suitable but check with the paint manufacturer to ensure that they are safe for potable water. — Nick Bailey

Restoring Canvas Decks Q: The deck canvas on my 1966 Chris-Craft Cavalier is scuffed and dirty looking. No amount of scrubbing seems to get it clean. Can I paint old canvas? If so, what paint and procedure do I use? Peter Brugmans, Merrickville, Ont.

A: Painting deck canvas is workable provided the material is still solid and not ripped or rotted. A good quality yacht enamel will be the easiest to apply and will be a good compromise between ease of application and quality of finish. If a non-skid finish is necessary, then either buy a pre-mixed paint or mix in abrasive particles suitable for the job. [Ed: for application details, see “Deck Coverings” on page 60.] After cleaning the surface, power sand lightly with an orbital sander and 240-grit (no coarser, no finer) abrasive. Avoid sanding through the old finish and exposing the canvas. This sanding gives the original coating “tooth” for satisfactory paint adhesion. Follow the paint manufacturer’s recommendations on primer and topcoating. Pay attention to the climate. Avoid painting in direct sunlight, at dusk, if rain is forecast and so forth. — Wayne Redditt Impaired Cooling fold or engine block. To do this, pres- sufficient pressure to ignite the fuel. Q: The 7.4L MerCruiser in my sure test the system to 15 psi. If pres- Have the compression checked for 11.4m (38') Carver aft cabin has a sure drops (loss), take exhaust mani- comparison with min-max specs for large heat exchanger combined with folds out of the system and repressur- your engine. If all checks out, it may a plastic expansion tank. This tank ize. If the pressure holds, you likely be ring wear, though 900 hours is never seems to add coolant to the have an exhaust manifold or riser not much for a diesel that’s been heat exchanger when the engine gasket leak. If pressure drops, the properly used and maintained. overheats, though it does appear to failure is likely inside the engine Usually a good indication of ring have filled. Carver mounted the tank block. If it’s a corrosion related fail- wear is bluish smoke. Seeing that 61cm (24") below fill cap on the ure, the fault is the heat exchanger. smoke depends, of course, on being heat exchanger and about 15cm (6") — Jan Mundy able to start your engine. away from the outside edge of the — Jan Mundy Tips for No Starts engine, which based on what I read, Q: I just bought my first sailboat, a When Zincs Go Astray is too low. The engine also appears 1976 9.7m (32') Endeavor with a Q: In July I had my Silverton 40 con- to loose coolant. What can I do to Westerbeke 30hp that fails to start by vertible hauled, bottom painted and pinpoint the leak before dismantling a fully charged (and tested) 850 two sacrificial zincs put on each shaft the risers? cranking amp Stowaway battery. I and the rudder zincs replaced. Three Carlos Velategui, “Mystic Morning,” pumped out the old diesel fuel, months later, a diver cleaned and Everett, Wash. replaced both fuel filters, pumped in inspected the bottom, and found both new diesel fuel and bled the system. port engine zincs were almost A: Your engine operates on a closed- Out of frustration, I bought a Nautilus wasted. All other zincs looked fine. Is loop system that uses antifreeze to 1,000 cranking amp battery, and, this a bonding problem with the port cool the engine block and exhaust after several attempts, the engine or starboard engines and the rud- manifolds. According to Steve Auger finally started. Once warm, the ders? of Mercury Marine, your assumption engine easily restarted several times. David Sanderson, “Cruzan,” that the manufacturer originally I activate the glow plugs for 20 sec- Newark, Delaware mounted the coolant recovery tank onds, even in the summer, before try- too low is correct. When the engine ing to start each time, although I’m A: Zincs that corrode in just three gets too hot, coolant expands and not sure if they are functioning, but I months are a good indication you can hear a clicking sound when turn- have a problem. It sounds like a DC ing the key. Perhaps the engine is not stray current situation originating in getting enough compression to gener- onboard equipment that’s grounded ate the heat required for ignition? to your boat’s port engine and/or The engine has about 900 hours. shaft. It might be in the engine Phil Primm, “Stank Boat,” Charlotte, starter, your converter, or other elec- N.C. trical equipment grounded to the port engine. A: An 850 cold-cranking amp bat- Discuss your spills into the expansion tank. As the tery is sufficient for your diesel observations engine cools, the antifreeze empties engine. The clicking noise is likely a with a quali- back into the engine. This tank must solenoid problem. While it’s now fied marine be mounted level with the heat working intermittently, it eventually electrician exchanger fill neck; it cannot be will fail. It may also be loose wiring who can help below this point for the engine has contacts. Make sure all wiring con- you pinpoint no means of pushing the coolant nections are tight, and clean and free and correct uphill. After relocating the tank, you’ll of corrosion. Then check the sole- the problem. When I need answers need to determine why the engine is noid. Glow plugs draw a lot of to troubling electrical problems I overheating and if damage to the amperage, so you should see an ini- encounter in my surveys, I call engine has already taken place. Your tial power loss on an ammeter or Marine Electric Systems (410/647- engine should not be overheating. voltmeter when the plugs are ener- 5001) for help. Peter Kennedy Yacht An overheated engine can damage gized. Limit the activation to no Services, (410/280-2267) is head gaskets and other components. longer than 20 seconds or you’ll another good source for assistance. You’ll need to determine if the overheat the wires. The problem — Susan Canfield, AMS, Marine coolant leak is in the exhaust mani- could also be caused by a lack of Associates Tech Tips

HOSE him/her when the job is completed. cushions, draw a horizontal line just ARMOR: To Asking the engine technician to below the sheer inside the cabin protect hoses explain, in writing, what was done, with a washable, non-toxic color from abrasion, and why, is a good way to build a marker. A stained line just below the kinking and trusting working relationship with point where the water entered marks puncture, you your mechanic, and it’s a terrific the leak. can make a record of the engine service history. CLAMP TUBE: When gluing parts, hose shield by TANK CLEANER: Use MDR Sludge line the inside of the clamp you’re cutting a short and Slime or Biobor to break down using to hold odd shapes with rub- piece of hose contaminants in gasoline tanks that ber tubing, bicycle inner tubes or of the same or larger diameter can then be easily filtered by a surgical tubing to prevent marring along its length, and wrapping the water separator-fuel filter. the surfaces. split section over the primary. David Aiken, DIY ANOTHER NO-START TIP: If you DON’T POUR, LADLE: Instead of ANODE-DODES: The kind of water haven’t run your outboard engine for pouring paint from the can into a you boat in decides the type of a while, and it won’t start when you paint tray or other container, use a anode you use. Magnesium anodes, want it to, you may suspect a fuel ladle to transfer for example, are okay in seawater problem especially if you can’t smell the paint. That (saltwater) but can be troublesome in gasoline. Try having someone way you’ll brackish waters. squeeze the primer bulb while you avoid spilling Peter Foster, “MME,” Faversham, crank the engine a few times. If you paint on the England smell fuel, and the engine still won’t can label, and start, stop! Fuel is leaking some- you’ll still be WIRE TWISTER: To twist (or ALISON HOOD where. Find the leak before you go untwist) stainless steel wire, place able to read the any further. the end(s) in the chuck of a hand application instructions. DIY thanks the gaffer at the dock for brace or a power drill run at low this tip. TASTES SPRING-LIKE: speed to unlay the wire strands. Chlorinated water from your dock- Dean Yates, Springdale, Nfld. SHOWER IN THE ROUGH: A side water supply stays fresh longer quick fix for a shower-less boat is to BOARD-TIGHT: To secure noisy, in the tank if you don’t filter the adapt a garden sprayer by installing loose-fitting floorboards or access water when filling. Instead, mount a threaded fitting to attach a shower hatches to berth lockers and other the water filter downstream on the hose and spray compart- supply line from the tank to remove nozzle, and a ments, sim- chlorine just before you use the fill connection ply peel water. that attaches to and stick Nick Bailey, DIY a freshwater self-adhe- source. To use GREASE’S THE ANSWER: When sive Velcro, your new repacking a stuffing box, lightly coat using the shower, simply each ring of packing with Molycoat loop fill the tank, 44 silicone grease. You’ll be able to (fuzzy) sec- pump the han- remove it easily next time you ser- tion, around the outer edge. The dle to pressurize the tank and vice it again. board will snug up nicely and not squeeze the hose nozzle. Enjoy! rattle. REPAIREE’S CODE: When having a professional service your boat LEAK FINDER: When you have DISCLAIMER: DIY boat owner is not account- engine, the smart “repairee” asks water entering the cabin from an able for any products or procedures that that the original parts be returned to unknown source and saturating the appear in this column. ShopTalk

FLOOR SAVER Many older runabouts have rotted or delaminated plywood floors and floor supports. Here’s a solution that will likely outlast the original construction.

By Wayne Redditt fiberglass to remove the floor. There is a simple way to conceal the gaps Most older fiberglass runabouts have when installing the new floor, which a cockpit floor (a.k.a. deck or sole) will be discussed later. made of plywood, and often exterior With the floor removed, you ply instead of the more expensive need to assess the condition of the marine ply. The floor is supported on athwartship and longitudinal supports timber or plywood stiffeners, called where you’ll likely find rot or delami- longitudinals that run fore and aft, nation. You should attempt to create and thwarts (supports perpendicular patterns of these before removing to the floors). These structural mem- them from the bilge. Use cardboard bers are fiberglassed to the hull inte- or stiff paper. Good patterns make Structural interior of a typical fiberglass rior. Over time, these floors become for an easier final installation. They runabout. saturated with moisture, which don’t have to be perfect though, inevitably rots and/or delaminates since the epoxy putty mixture used to tens components to the floor before (the process of separating the thin bed these parts to the hull fills gaps you start tearing away. wood layers that are laminated with up to 3mm (1/8"). Remove any Once you know the extent of the glue to form a specified panel thick- soaked flotation foam, if included. damage, you can determine the best ness). Beyond the telltale soft feeling Grinding through the fiberglass repair method. The quick-and-dirty underfoot and the visible rippling of tabs that clamp the floor supports to approach would be to cut some ply- the plywood, the boat hull may suffer the hull is a messy and time-consum- wood to shape and install it directly flexing problems and gelcoat cracking job. Grind off the leftover tabbing over the top of the existing floor, pro- ing since the floor and its support after you remove the wood parts. vided there remained some solid structure are vital to the hull’s resis- Grind away all putties, fillers and gel- original material to which you can tance to excessive flexing. coat in the surrounding area. Be sure fasten the new floor. Stainless-steel Preserving the structural integrity to wear appropriate dust protection screws would be the first choice for of the floor and its support system is when grinding any fiber-reinforced fasteners, although galvanized deck vital to the boat’s ability to withstand materials. Dry out the bilge thor- screws (green ones) would fit a tight its expected service. These repairs oughly before grinding or cutting budget. are not technically difficult, but doing with power tools. The bilge and hull the job right is important. A better approach to safeguard- Replacement begins with a thorough ing the boat’s value is to carefully survey of the floor and supporting remove the existing plywood floor, structures. This requires removing all preserving as much as possible, interior furniture like seats and engine especially the edge profile. Original boxes, lifting the carpet or vinyl floor pieces will serve as patterns to pro- covering. Many manufacturers used duce the new floor. Fiberglass tab- a contact cement-type adhesive to bing probably secures the floor to the install the flooring. Removing it hull at the outer edges. Floors often fit A wide 45.7cm (18") strip of fiberglass cloth, roving or mat (“tabs”) imbedded means ripping it out in pieces. Take poorly against the hull and the tabs in resin is applied along the entire care to note the location of cleats, bridge the gap. Use a small angle length of the seam to secure floor to sliders and other hardware that fas- grinder with a disk capable of cutting hull. you are ready to lay the floor. If flotation foam was present in the cavities replace it now with two-part liquid urethane foam (styrene-based foam is not recommended), allowing it to expand above the level of the supports. As this foam is a critical safety feature, make sure to use a flotation foam. The Coast Guard can provide the specifications for this special foam. After curing, use a long knife to remove excess foam so it’s level with the supports. If there is a permanently installed metallic fuel tank under the floor, this is the time to check its condition, especially on its underside where bilge water might have caused corrosion. If the tank is questionable, now is the time to replace it. Install the new plywood floor, fastening with stainless screws only to the cleats on the supports since plywood end grain doesn’t hold screws firmly. Fill gaps between the hull and floor (here’s the tip) with urethane foam. Let cure then cut the excess with a sharp knife. Lay fiberglass New longitudinal and athwartship floor supports coated with tape over the plywood and up the hull sides, lapping at unthickened epoxy resin for moisture protection, then epoxy least 30.4cm (12") onto the plywood and 15cm (6") up glued to hull, seams the hull sides. I suggest epoxy for this job, since polyester sealed with epoxy will have bonding problems with the coated plywood fillets and taped. unless it’s been very carefully prepped. Note limber holes cut for routing of Once cured, install weatherproof carpet or a vinyl bilge water. (left) deck covering, followed by reattachment of seats, etc. Pre-cut rolls of 7.6cm- (3"-) wide fiberglass cloth tape simplify When properly coated, glued, taped and screwed, this taping of floor supports. repair will last for many years, probably much longer than the original construction. interior must be bone dry before and during installation of new supports and floor. Transfer patterns for the floor supports and floor onto fir AC-grade exterior plywood (G1S), and cut with a jigsaw or bandsaw. Cut some mahogany cleats, 2.5cm (1") square, and epoxy glue to top edges of supports. Be sure to transfer the placement of all floor hardware onto the new floor. Coat sides and edges of all pieces with unthickened epoxy resin for moisture protection. Use epoxy resin thickened with wood fillers to bed and glue the new supports to the hull. After curing, sand off any sharp edges of protruding fillers. You may wish to apply epoxy fillets to all joints before taping. Cut tabs so they extend well onto the hull, at least several inches on both sides, from heavy fiberglass cloth or very light roving if using epoxy resin. Epoxy doesn’t work with some types of chopped-strand mat. If affixing tabs with polyester resin, chopped strand mat will work. Before resin cures, give supports and tabs an extra dose, then let cure. [Ed: Refer to DIY 1998-#4 for the proper methods of mixing epoxy Cleats resin, coating wood, gluing and Rather than fastening into plywood end grain, solid wood cleats attach to floor filleting.] supports allow screw fastening of floor. When cured, ElectricalFINE TUNING DC POWER SYSTEMS Heavy-duty wire connection and switching devices add a dimension of flexibility in DC (direct current) system planning and installation, as well as improved safety. Here’s how to choose the best equipment for your next upgrade.

By Kevin Jeffrey blocks of conductive material, such Busbars are rated for their con- Beyond the glamour of high-output as tin-plated brass, with multiple tinuous current capacity and maxi- alternators, solar and wind-driven wire connection points. These con- mum DC voltage. Since busbars can battery chargers, battery banks and nection points can combine individ- also be used for AC systems, a rat- system monitors are the hidden ual studs and/or screw terminals for ing for AC maximum voltage is also essentials of any respectable marine attaching wires in a DC circuit. given. Be sure you select busbars electrical system; namely, heavy-duty Since all termination points on a with sufficient current and voltage DC circuit components that provide busbar are electrically connected, ratings for your needs. Busbars have advantages over safe, efficient wire termination points the busbar itself acts as a jumper single stud distribution posts. They and switching ability. These devices, from one connection point to can handle more wire terminations often not considered by boat own- another. These features make bus- on a single device. ABYC (American ers, boatbuilders and electrical sys- bars the preferred method for con- Boat and Yacht Council) standards tem suppliers, are fast becoming necting common groups of positive state, “No more than four conduc- standard equipment in first-rate or negative wires. The conductive marine installations with high-energy material on a busbar is fastened to demands. a base block of non-conductive 100-amp MiniBus I use the term “heavy duty” to material such as plastic used for describe this class of electrical mounting the busbar to a bulkhead devices, not to imply that they all or other convenient surface. Ground 100-amp DualBus have the same degree of robustness, wires can be connected on a but to focus on devices that are grounding busbar, which is similar designed and built to perform well to a standard busbar, but lacks the at their rated capacity in rugged thick metal heat sink and the non- marine environments. conductive mounting surface. Busbars are available in a 600-amp PowerBar range of styles and electrical ratings. Wire Connections Some models have only stud termi- The first heavy-duty DC circuit com- nation points (typically four). Others ponents to plan for are wire termina- have two studs, one at each end, tors shall be secured to any one ter- tion devices, which include common with smaller screw terminals in minal.” Busbars also allow wires of electrical busbars, distribution posts between. Some have only screw ter- varying sizes to be connected on and terminal blocks. Battery posts, minals. Dual common buses with the same device, and wires can be battery switch terminals and other screw terminals are also available arranged in an orderly pattern. adhoc connection points have been for terminating both positive and The connections on a busbar used for attaching positive and neg- negative wires on a single mounting should always be protected with a ative wires in an electrical system. block. Dual common buses have non-conductive cover. Some busbars Now specially-made wire termina- one common bus for terminating on the market have specially-made tion devices provide safe and conve- positive wires and a second com- plastic covers for this purpose. nient ways to connect wires and mon bus, electrically isolated from Distribution posts provide safe, cables. the first, for terminating negative secure connection points for up to Electrical busbars are solid wires. four high-amperage cables on a single post. Distribution posts are not typically rated for amperage since current flows between the various conductors and their terminals, not through the post itself. They are, however, rated for maximum DC voltage. Distribution Blue Seas PowerPost posts for the marine market are typically rated up to 48 volts DC. Some distribution posts also provide low-amperage screw terminals for connecting conductors from controls, displays, monitor shunts and appliances with small electrical loads. In certain applications, this device can eliminate the need for an additional post or busbar. As with busbars, distribution posts typically are made with mounting bases of non-conductive material, with recessed mounting screw holes to avoid contact with the conductors on the post. Some models come with a rubber or plastic insulating boot, color-coded for positive (red) or negative (black) wires. The boot is good for one or two wires only, so terminal protection for the other wires on the post is often left to the customer. Terminal blocks provide a convenient common connection point for wires in multiple DC circuits. Individual circuits in Dedicated terminal block for negative wires. a wire harness can be terminated on a terminal block, and rerouted to an appliance, a power source, or a monitoring or control device. A typical terminal block has individual pairs of screws serving as circuit connection points for incoming and outgoing conductors. These screw pairs are isolated by the mounting base itself and by raised plastic separa- tors between circuits, and they can be easily joined by a properly rated metal jumper to give the required number of connection points for each circuit. Terminal blocks typically have a closed back design that completely insulates the electrical power at the screw terminals from the mounting surface.

Switch Controls The ubiquitous 1-2-Both-Off battery switch used to be the only heavy duty switch on a boat. Boaters can now choose from several varieties of switches that perform a wide range of tasks. 1-2-Both-Off battery switches, supplied with most pro- duction boats, are primarily intended for electrical systems that have two battery banks. The switch directs which battery bank accepts the charging current, which battery bank supplies the load current, and it can disconnect the batteries completely from the rest of the electrical system. Many four- position battery switches on the Four-position switch. market are equipped with an alternator field disconnect (AFD) switch that protects the diodes in an engine-driven alternator if the position of the main switch is changed while the engine is running. An AFD is a secondary switch inside the main switch, connected to the field wire of the voltage regulator. When the position of the main switch is changed, the AFD opens, stopping the alternator output before the main switch contacts open, and the AFD closes again before the main switch contacts close. Battery switches can be directly mounted to a bulkhead or other flat surface, or they can be flush mounted in standard or custom electrical panels. The electrical contacts are on the back of the On-Off switch switch, protected from accidental human contact. Many boaters set up their electrical systems with one large house bank and designated starting batteries for auxiliaries and generators. For these systems, a simple On-Off battery switch to isolate or disconnect the house bank and the individual starter batteries makes sense. Main battery switches for the house battery bank and engine starting battery(s) should be rated to handle the maximum current expected in the system. A house bank battery switch with a continuous rating of 300 amps and Mini battery switch with intermittent amperage removable key. rating of 40a0 amps is a good choice for most marine systems. Lighter duty On-Off switches, known as mini battery switches, can be used to disconnect small starting batteries, but they have other uses in an electrical power system. They can serve as Figure 1 convenient circuit disconnects for larger branch DC circuits onboard, Negative feed to Dual bus for navigation and Positive feed to all other house loads all other house communication equipment including circuits for high-amperage Positive Distribution Post loads appliances and charging sources. DC main panel with ammeter, Mini battery switches from Blue Sea Negative To Windlass voltmeter and house circuits Distribution Post Systems are rated at 250 amps con- To 12V Fridge Neg. AC panel with ammeter, volt- tinuous and 375 amps intermittent. To 110V Charger Neg. meter, 30A disconnect and house circuits Some models have a removable key 12V outlet Negative Solar to avoid accidental switching of criti- Busbar Panel cal loads or charging sources. Pocket 12V Fridge Inverter Compressor Another option for heavy duty House Battery Solar switching in a DC circuit is to use a Bank 2 deep Charge cycle batteries Control Windlass properly rated, high-amperage DC wired in parallel circuit breaker that combines switch- On-Off 110V AC In ing and circuit protection in a single Bilge Fuse On-Off device. Heavy-duty magnetic DC cir- Pump Fuse Positive cuit breakers are available in the Busbar Fuses On-Off 12V 110V/60Hz 50- to 300-amp range for use with DC Out Battery Main Battery Charger inverters, bow thrusters and wind- On-Off Switch High-Output Alternator lasses. These devices are not Positive Distribution Post Starting 3-Step Reg. designed to open a circuit when the Battery 1 120V 60Hz load is drawing current under nor- Parallel Starter Isolation mal conditions. Interrupting the cir- Charging Transformer Device Aux. Engine cuit at high current flow can cause On-Off 120V On-Off, Emergency AC Inlet pitting of the contacts that can lead KEVIN JEFFREY Crossover Switch Sample DC circuit to undesirable resistance. Use a relay to handle the high current arc- ing that occurs when large DC motors are turned on and off.

Fine Tuning There are many reliable wire connection and switching devices to fine-tune simple and sophisticated electrical power systems. These devices improve flexibility in system planning and installation as well as improved safety, security and aes- thetic appeal. If you’re uncertain about the components or installation in a wiring upgrade you’re planning, sketch it on paper, and consult a qualified marine electrician before you proceed. [Ed: For instructions on producing a proper electrical schematic, see DIY 2000-#2.]

About the author: Kevin Jeffrey is an independent electrical power consultant, and is the author of the “Independent Energy Guide” and the publisher of “Sailor’s Multihull Guide,” now in its second edition. DIESEL DIESELDIY MECHANIC GETTING TO KNOW YOUR DIESEL

When problems occur, a systematic approach to maintenance and troubleshooting can save you time and money and often get you underway again. Here’s what you need to know to keep your diesel humming.

Story and photos by Jan Mundy research of its diesel engine line is the two level marks as specified in handled by its in-house design and your service manual. Check the Your boat’s diesel engine thrives on R&D group. Engines range in horse- gearbox oil level with its dipstick. It a relatively simple diet of air, fuel power from 11 to 286, in two, three and combustion. A lack of any one and four cylinder models. Smaller of these three key ingredients can horsepower models meet the emis- keep your boat at the dock. Your sion regulations of the Lake engine does give warnings of Constance Requirements (Bodensee), impending operational indigestion, the strictest standard in the world. and recognizing these warnings, Lack of maintenance is the root and detecting the symptoms of a of most engine troubles. On the fol- diesel ailment is what makes a good lowing pages, Jansen and the Vetus mechanic. Diesel staff outline the routine main- Bernard Jansen, service inspec- tenance procedures they recom- tor of Vetus Diesel, headquartered in mend for long engine life, better per-

Schiedam, Holland, recommends formance and economical opera- SHARD SHERYL boat owners become familiar with tion. A list of common problems, their engine and know what is “nor- their possible causes and suggested should be between the tip and the mal.” Listen to it run, observe the remedies, appears in notch in the dipstick. Top up with the vibration at various rpm with load “Troubleshooting Checklist,” on specified oil via the dipstick open- and without, watch for changes in page 20, and of course, follow the ing. Tip: To facilitate reading the exhaust smoke, record the oil pres- manufacturer’s recommendations in gearbox oil level, wipe the dipstick sure at cruising speed and at idle. your engine service manual for clean then dust a little chalk or tal- When your engine starts to run maintenance and service intervals. cum powder on the dipstick and dip rough or shakes more than normal, it again. or rpm decreases, stop and find the Check engine and transmis- fault. Ignore the warning signs, and sion oil levels before every Check for dirt problems will inevitably spoil your start. Do it when the engine is cold in the raw- day. (not run for at least 6 hours) to pre- water Vetus Diesel, a division of Vetus vent overfilling. By then, all the oil strainer daily Den Ouden, one of the largest sup- will have run back into the pan, and or before pliers of marine equipment in the dipstick level will be most accu- every use. Europe, has sold Mitsubishi and rate. An extra 12mm (1/2") above Close the sea- Peugeot marine diesels in Europe for the upper mark on the dipstick won’t water intake more than 20 years, and more likely harm your engine. Any higher seacock and recently in North America. The com- and you should pump out (or drain) remove the pany was established in 1964, pub- oil to the proper level. Constantly strainer cover. lishes catalogs in seven languages running an engine with too much oil To clean it, and has a network of dealers and can result in extensive (and costly) remove the bas- service shops in more than 30 coun- damage to the cylinders. Know the ket insert, rinse tries. All design, marinization and difference in oil capacity between it in clean water Serviceability is an important factor, whether you are doing the work or paying a Cooling system filler cap professional mechanic. Mitsubishi engines are maintenance friendly with most components easily accessible, and many located on the same side. Heat exchanger Oil filler cap

Air bleed Cooling system filler Air bleed Air intake nipple cap (on top, not shown) Water separator-- nipple silencer fuel filter

Idle adjustment Drain plug

Gearbox filler cap

Gearbox oil Oil filler cap dipstick

Fuel pump should frequently add a biocide, such as Biobor, or install an Algae X to Oil filter Oil dipstick reduce germination.

Change oil and oil filter at fuel filter mean leaks. Track the and reassemble. least once a year regardless of source immediately, cautions Jansen. Be sure the engine hours or at service intervals cover gasket is Don’t neglect your battery. specified in your owner’s manual. properly seated Check lead acid battery electrolyte Run the engine at idle speed for 10 or the seawater and specific gravity levels. Fluid minutes or until it reaches operating pump will pull should be 12mm (1/2") above top of temperature to warm the oil. Stop the air into the sys- all plates. Top up with distilled water engine, then pump out the oil using a tem, causing as needed, and charge the battery. suction pump through the dipstick insufficient cool- Check the battery charge level with a hole, or drain the oil, if you have suf- ing and overheating. Replace gasket hydrometer. Keep battery posts clean ficient space below the engine. if worn. and dry. Always remove negative Examine the oil for metal deposits Check freshwater cooled cable first when servicing a battery. and water contamination. Be careful. engine coolant level every day Hot oil can burn your skin. Check tightness of all fasteners or before using engine. Do it Always change the oil filter when at least monthly. This includes all when the engine is cold. Remove the you change oil. After draining the oil, engine bolts, nuts and screws, control cap at the filler neck on the heat place a plastic bag around the filter cables, hose clamps, wiring harness exchanger. The coolant level should and remove it by hand or use a strap connections, etc. be 9mm (3/8") below the lower wrench, turned counterclockwise edge of the reservoir neck. A loss of Monthly check hoses for chaf- (check direction in manual). Seal bag antifreeze indicates a leak in the sys- ing and cracking. For complete and dispose of the filter at an tem. instructions on servicing hoses, see approved disposal facility. Insert a new filter, wipe contact surfaces with Check the fuel, cooling and “What You Should Know About a clean rag, dab some clean engine exhaust systems for leakage Hose” in DIY 2000-#2 issue. oil (or before every use. Oil or fuel Clean diesel fuel is important petroleum residues in the engine pan or at the for top engine performance. jelly) on Dirty fuel clogs fuel filters, plugs injec- the gas- tors and shortens engine life. ket, then Fluctuations in ambient air tempera- reinstall tures as well as fuel temperatures pro- filter and duce condensation that activates the tighten by microorganisms in the fuel and hand. hatches microbial growth. Warm tem- Collect peratures also heighten bacteria and dis- growth, so boaters in these areas pose of to the injection pump and injectors, MECHANIC DIY through the engine where it’s heated and then returns to the tank. After stopping the engine, the fuel cools and condenses. Water is heavier the oil and filter in an environmen- than diesel tally friendly manner. fuel, so it Refill engine with the oil type settles, and quantity specified for your along with engine. Start engine and run at idle microbes speed for 30 seconds to circulate oil (bacteria, through the filter. Check for oil leaks. fungus, Let stand for 5 minutes to let oil drain molds, into the sump and check oil levels yeast, etc.) with the dipstick. and dirt par- Though it’s not necessary to ticles to the change the gearbox oil every year, tank bottom it’s usually done during off-season or anywhere else in the system that lay-up (see “Preparing Your Diesel allows it to collect. To drain the For Storage” on page 21). Pump out water, open the bottom drain plug on the oil through the dipstick on the the fuel-water separator and drain into a container. When diesel fuel starts to flow out, close the plug. Repeat this procedure with the engine fuel filter. Check drained fuel for evidence of contamination. Metal particulate in the drained fuel may be a sign of a corroding fuel tank. A fuel-water separator with a clear bowl allows you to visually inspect the amount of water collected. Because no air is introduced, draining the filters doesn’t usually require bleeding the fuel system. Replace fuel filters at least once a year. Install a new engine fuel filter and water separator-fuel filter at the same time as the engine oil filter. Replacement is easier if you gearbox housing (or remove drain have a shutoff valve on the fuel feed plug). Smell the oil. A burnt odor line to the filter. (Install one if you may signal a drive cone problem. don’t!) Place a plastic bag or con- Refill with the specified oil type to the tainer underneath to contain spillage. correct level. Refer to your service To replace the filter element, close the manual for recommended engine shutoff valve to prevent fuel flow. and gearbox oil grades and vol- Remove the band holding the top of umes. the filter (or unscrew the top). Remove the used element, put it in a plastic Regularly drain the water bag and seal it for proper disposal from engine fuel filter and later. Insert the new filter element. Be water separator-fuel filter unit sure to use an element with the when engine is in use. When proper micron rating to prevent fuel the engine runs, fuel is pumped from flow restriction. Before reassembly, the tank to the fuel-water separator, TROUBLESHOOTING CHECKLIST Engine will not crank Engine does not reach maximum rpm under load Possible Fault Remedy Possible Fault Remedy 1 Discharged battery. 1 Check and/or recharge battery, 1 Air in fuel system. 1 Check and bleed fuel system. 2 Loose or corroded connections in check alternator and battery charger. 2 Fuel filter clogged with water 2 Check or replace. starting circuit. 2 Clean and tighten connections. and/or contamination. 3 Check and replace. 3 Faulty starter switch or starter relay. 3 A clicking sound normally indicates 3 Leaking fuel supply line or fuel 4 Check, replace if required. 4 Faulty starter motor or pinion does a failure. Check and/or replace. injection line. 5 Check and adjust. not engage. 4 Measure voltage at starter with 4 Faulty injector or injection pump. 6 Lower level. 5 Starter relay is not engaged due to VOM per manufacturer’s specs. 5 Setting of stop valve incorrect. 7 Adjust. a voltage too low caused by a very Check or replace starter motor. 6 Oil level too high. 8 Clean exhaust mixing elbow and long intermediate cable from engine 5 Check manual for recommended 7 Incorrect valve clearance. hose. to control panel. cable length. Install an auxiliary 8 Exhaust restricted. 9 Check suction at air intake, remove starter relay. 9 Insufficient intake air. and check filter. 10 Wrong fuel quality/contaminated 10 Replace with new, clean fuel. Engine cranks but will not start, smoke from exhaust 11 Engine overloaded. 11 Check size of propeller. Possible Fault Remedy Engine cranks but will not start, no smoke from exhaust 1 Air in fuel system. 1 Check and bleed fuel system. Possible Fault Remedy 2 Faulty injector and/or injection 2 Check, clean or replace, if required. 1 Fuel stop valve closed. 1 Open. pump. 3 Check and/or adjust. 2 No fuel. 2 Refill tank and/or check fuel system. 3 Setting of stop valve incorrect. 4 Check and/or replace. 3 Air in fuel system. 3 Check and bleed. 4 Faulty glow plugs. 5 Adjust. 4 Fuel filter clogged. 4 Check or replace. 5 Incorrect valve clearance. 6 Need to service. Normally done by 5 Fuel leak. 5 Check for visible leaks and replace. 6 Incorrect injection timing after over- qualified marine diesel mechanic. 6 Faulty injector or injection pump. 6 Remove and test by a repair shop. hauling of engine. 7 Check suction at air intake. If neces- 7 Fuel tank vent line clogged. 7 Check vent for spider webs, clean. 7 Insufficient intake air. sary remove cover and check if 8 Exhaust restricted. 8 Clean exhaust mixing elbow/hose. 8 Wrong fuel quality or contaminated clogged. 9 Electric fuel lift pump doesn’t oper- 9 Check and/or replace. Incorrect lube oil SAE class or quality 8 Check fuel. Drain and flush fuel ate. 10 Disassemble, check and clean. for ambient temperature. tank. Replace with new fuel. 10 Electric fuel lift pump delivery and Install a fuel pilot filter in fuel line from Engine starts but idles rough or stalls at load suction valves obstructed by dirt. tank to engine. 11 Clogged electric fuel lift pump fil- 11 Check and clean. Possible Fault Remedy ter. 12 Check and service. 1 No fuel. 1 Fill tank. 12 Stuck decompression lever. 13 Remove tube from tank and 2 Air in fuel system. 2 Bleed fuel system. 13 Clogged fuel tank pickup tube. remove screen, if fitted. 4 Fuel filter clogged with water 3 Drain and replace. and/or contamination. 4 Check and replace. Engine not firing on all cylinders, vibration increase, rpm decreases 4 Leaking fuel supply line or fuel 5 Remove and test by repair shop. Possible Fault Remedy injection line. 6 Check vent for spider webs, clean. 1 Air in fuel system. 1 Check and bleed fuel system. 5 Faulty injector/injection pump. 7 Check. Inspect fuel pickup tube in 2 Fuel filter clogged. 2 Check or replace. 6 Vent line of fuel tank clogged. fuel tank and remove screen if fitted. 3 Leaking fuel supply line or fuel 3 Check and replace, if required. 7 Fuel supply line restricted. 8 Adjust. injection line. 4 Remove and test by qualified repair 8 Incorrect valve clearance. 9 Check manual for idle rpm and 4 Faulty injector, injection pump. shop. 9 Idle setting too low. adjust. 5 Fuel supply line restricted. 5 Check and replace. 10 Exhaust restricted. 10 Check exhaust elbow and hose 6 Faulty glow plugs. 6 Check and replace. 11 Wrong fuel quality or contami- and clean. 7 Incorrect valve clearance. 7 Adjust. nated fuel. 11 Replace with new, clean fuel. 8 Clogged filter,electric fuel lift pump. 8 Check and clean. 12 Clogged filter of electric fuel lift 12 Clean or replace. 9 Faulty electric fuel lift pump. 9 Check and replace. pump. 13 One or more cylinders are misfir- Engine overheats 13 Compression problem. ing. Check. Possible Fault Remedy Engine oil consumption excessive 1 Seacock closed. 1 Open. 2 Blocked raw-water intake. 2 Check and remove restriction. Possible Fault Remedy 3 Oil level too high. 3 Too much resistance. Lower level. 1 Oil level too high. 1 Pump out oil. 4 Oil level too low. 4 Add oil. 2 Excessive inclination of engine. 2 Check and adjust. 5 Faulty oil filter. 5 Incorrect size. Replace. 3 Incorrect lube oil SAE class or qual- 3 Replace with correct oil. 6 Coolant pump defective or faulty 6 Check and clean. Check impeller. ity for ambient temperature. 4 Check compression; overhaul impeller. 7 Clean tube stack. Replace impeller. 4 Excessive wear of cylinder or rings. engine. 7 Heat exchanger dirty or clogged. 8 Check level and top up. 5 Insufficient intake air. 5 Check suction; check filter. 8 Coolant level too low. 9 Clean strainer basket. 6 Engine overloaded. 6 Check size of propeller 9 Raw-water strainer clogged. 10 Check seal on strainer,check Engine has little or no oil pressure 10 Leaking raw-water intake system. intake hose. Possible Fault Remedy 11 Faulty injector, injection pump. 11 Remove and test by repair shop. 12 Faulty thermostat. 12 Check and replace, if required. 1 Oil level too low. 1 Increase level. 13 Faulty raw-water pump impeller. 13 Replace. 2 Excessive inclination of engine. 2 Check and adjust. 14 Insufficient intake air. 14 Check suction. Replace air filter. 3 Incorrect lube oil SAE class or qual- 3 Replace. 15 Faulty temperature switch, sen- 15 Bypass switch and run engine. ity for ambient temperature. sor or meter. Replace only. PREPARING YOUR DIESEL FOR STORAGE Here are a few steps you can take Replace water pump cover. Be sure to to prolong the life of your diesel install impeller before launching. when storing it for winter or for • To prevent corrosion during storage, extended periods. Turn to page the freshwater cooling system requires 39 for relaunching tips. an antifreeze-water mixture. Remove the • Add a diesel fuel stabilizer to the tank filler cap on the heat exchanger and about two weeks before lay-up. check the level of the coolant. Use • Change the oil, service the fuel filters an antifreeze using the procedures outlined in this arti- tester to check cle. Service the seawater strainer and the strength of prepare it for winter by filling it with non- the coolant. toxic antifreeze. Start engine and run Change coolant until strainer is empty, turn off engine. as needed, Reinstall strainer lid. Close engine depending on drains. storage temperatures. • Disconnect battery cables. If batteries are to remain onboard, make sure they are fully charged. • Seal the air intake opening with vinyl tape and remove • To protect the fuel system, injection exhaust hose pump and injector nozzles from corro- and plug engine sion, Vetus Diesel recommends preparing a soup of 1 part thin motor oil (i.e. diesel 10W40) and 9 parts clean (water-free) diesel fuel in a jerry can. Connect a spare fuel hose to the fuel lift pump inlet, remove the fuel return line exhaust with and place both into the jerry can. Run a rag, or the engine at idle speed and no load for seal both about 10 minutes. Remove hoses from with plastic jerry can and reconnect engine hoses. bags held with tape. • Open seawater seacock to allow air circulation and reduce condensation caused by temperature changes. • Loosen all drive belts. • Spray engine with a corrosion inhibitor. VETUS • Open petcock in waterlock muffler to drain water. Remember to close valve • Remove water pump cover and after draining. impeller, and inspect it for wear. Don’t reinstall or it will take a permanent set. • Update your engine maintenance log Rather, store it at room temperature. and make a list of parts to order. wipe the glass bowl clean, lightly grease the filter O-ring and reassemble, hand tightening only. The bowl should spin on easily. If it doesn’t, don’t force it. You may damage the threads. If the engine fuel filter housing has a drain plug on the bottom, first drain off any water. Put a bag over the filter housing and unscrew, using a strap wrench, in the direction pre- scribed in the engine manual. You can also use a screwdriver tapped lightly with a hammer to turn a notched oil cap housing (Yanmar). Wipe the rim clean and lightly lubri- cate the rubber gasket with oil. Fill the new filter with clean diesel fuel and screw on until just finger tight. Don’t over- tighten. Jansen advises applying just another 1/2 to 3/4 turn after the gasket closes against the housing. You’ll have to bleed the air from the fuel system after installing new filters. Tip: OMC Triple Guard Grease is high-quality grease for lubricating rubber gaskets and O- rings. You must bleed all the air from the fuel system after servicing it, or if you have run out of fuel. You’ll find bleed points on the engine fuel filter and injector pump. Locate the fuel lift pump. A manually operated pump has a priming lever. Larger engines have a self- bleeding electric pump. To prime the fuel system, turn the key switch to the “on” position. From the fuel-water separator, locate the first bleed point upstream of the fuel lift pump, usually located above the engine filter. Move the pump lever (or power the electric pump) four or five -Tip- SPILL CATCHER times, open the vent (nipple, bolt Place an absorbent pad under the engine to soak up oil and fuel drips or nut), wait for and spills before they reach the fuel to exit and bilge. close vent. Repeat again until fuel displaces all air bubbles. Locate the second bleed point on the injector pump and repeat the procedure. Continue until all air is purged from the system. Start engine and run for 15 minutes at idle in gear to ensure all air is removed. Mark the bleed points with a permanent marker for quick identification next time. Periodically check the amount of suction at air intake. Insufficient intake air affects the engine operation, causing overheating and other problems. Jansen recommends that you carefully feel the amount of suction at the air intake. Make a mental note of the pressure so you have a comparison when doing troubleshooting.

Be sure you know the proper cold-start procedures. Diesel engines have no ignition system. Instead, air is compressed until the temperature of that air rises beyond the ignition point of the fuel, then fuel is sprayed into the cylinders and ignites, starting the engine. A fully charged, properly sized battery should start your engine easily. Never turn over the starter motor for longer than 20 seconds. If your engine doesn’t start, stop cranking, and try again. Some diesel engines are equipped with glow plugs. In cooler temperatures, these devices pre-heat the air before it mixes with fuel to assist starting. Engine control panels may have “idiot” lights that burn when glow plugs are activated, usually 15 to 20 seconds before the engine starts. Another way to start a cold engine is to momentarily engage the decompression handle or lever while cranking the engine a few turns, then releasing it. Not all have this capability (my Yanmar 1980 1GM model does) as the lever can fail or stick and the engine won’t start. Never use an engine starting fluid.

Adjust the idle speed. The correct engine idling speed is specified in your shop manual and serviced at intervals specified by the manufacturer. Jansen has an easy method to check idle speed. Place a small piece of reflective tape on the flywheel. Using a photo tachometer, point the light beam onto the tape and read the rate of revolutions in the MECHANIC vapors in exhaust gases to condense, brush. Check air intake and air filter. DIY a more common problem in southern Never wash a paper filter, replace it. regions where after a warm spell, the Finally, have injectors and injection air temperature drops to 15°C (59°F) pump serviced, if needed. or lower. If the exhaust remains white Blue smoke indicates your engine at full load (or after a rise in tempera- is burning oil, and is normal on ture), it may mean other problems, startup. If blue smoke continues at such as water or air in the fuel, water idle, the oil level may be too high, in cylinders, misfiring cylinders, faulty the engine angle may be excessive , injector or injection pump, or lack of or there is a problem with valve compression. guides and stems, piston rings or The sooty, black exhaust that worn turbo-supercharger oil seals. contains unburned fuel due to incom- You’ll likely smell oil as well. plete combustion is common when a Inspect V-belt(s) and tension. diesel starts. It results from running for Turn belts inside out and replace if display. Reset the idling speed by long periods at low speed with load, cracked, delaminated or frayed. To turning the adjustment screw on the operating at low engine temperatures check tension, apply moderate thumb fuel pump. Turn the screw clockwise due to a faulty thermostat, a restricted pressure, about 10kg (20lb), on the to increase, counterclockwise to exhaust, oversized propeller, clogged belt midway between pulleys. The decrease, or as specified in your air filter or faulty injection system. belt should not deflect more than manual. (For instructions on servicing ther- 12mm (1/2"). To adjust, loosen the Smoke signals are key diag- mostats, refer to DIY 2000-#1). When black smoke doesn’t clear at nostic tools. A well-tuned engine load, disconnect the exhaust hose may smoke at startup and while and clean out clogs of carbon or salt idling, but never when under load. deposits or replace it. Also, remove Whitish exhaust smoke on startup of the exhaust mixing elbow and a cold engine is normal. This also remove clogging deposits with a steel occurs when low temperatures cause

bolt on the adjustment bracket and alternator mounting bolts, and reposi- tion alternator. Retighten the upper mounting bolt on the alternator first, then the mounting bracket bolt, and the lower mounting bolt. Never apply upward force with a screwdriver or stick propped under the alternator! You risk over tightening and overloading the bearings. Always carry a spare belt. VETUS Inspect the engine Fuse. Every the impeller by pulling straight out- open the filler cap to engine has a dedicated fuse. wards with waterpump pliers, a den- vent the system, Annually inspect the connections, and tal pick or screwdriver. Be careful not remove the drain the fuse and fuse holder for corro- to scratch the pump housing. plugs from the sion. Add this task to your spring Examine the surfaces of the pump commissioning list. housing and cover for scoring, and replace if warranted. Replace the impeller, lubricating it (or the old one) with silicone spray. Be sure all of the impeller blades bend in the proper

direction. Replace the cover gasket VETUS with a new one and reinstall. Start the engine and check for seawater discharging out the exhaust. engine block and heat exchanger, and collect the solution in a container Service a closed-cooling sys- for proper disposal. After draining, tem as specified in your service replace the drain plugs. Before refill- manual. Inter-cooled engines have a ing, service the heat exchanger. First Service the seawater cooling two component cooling system. A close the seawater seacock and system annually. The condition of mixture of ethylene glycol antifreeze detach the inlet water hose. Remove the water pump impeller is vital to and freshwater in the heat exchanger the end covers and O-rings then your cools the extract the tube stack. Use a heat engine’s engine, and exchanger bundle brush or pipe cooling seawater cleaner to system. cooled in remove foul- Close the the heat ing in the sea- seacock exchanger water pipes. and is dis- Flush with remove charged clean water. the pump into the Reassemble cover. exhaust mixing elbow. Even if you the tube stack, Etch a boat in southern climes, use an grease and mark on antifreeze- insert new O-rings and fit the end the pump water mix or covers in the housing. Be sure to cover and a corrosion properly align the locating pin. impeller inhibitor year- Tighten the bolts, reconnect the hose, to ensure round to help and refill the cooling system through correct prevent corro- the filler cap, either with coolant or alignment sion. antifreeze mix to the correct level. if reused. To drain Refer to your service manual for rec- Remove the coolant, ommended engine coolant mixture and capacity. Replace cap if corroded, and gasket if worn. Annually check engine remote stop control. This device allows you to shut off the engine in an emergency or from below when servicing. It seldom fails, but often corrodes, especially engines fitted with a pull-push cable. Normally there is no need to adjust the stop control. Clean fuel lift pump filter. Check your engine man- gasket to the inside edge ual for servicing frequency. Many newer engines have an of the rocker cover and electronic fuel lift pump. reinstall. Jansen cautions Close the fuel shutoff valve. that if you’re unsure of this procedure, have the valves Disassemble the pump to serviced by a qualified marine diesel mechanic. clean the filter. Open the Visually examine engine mounts. Check for break- Filter shutoff valve and check for leaks. After cleaning you’ll age, loose nuts and condition of rubber pads. This is nor- VETUS have to bleed the engine. mally done annually. Check the valve clearance at servicing intervals Torque head bolts every two years. Use a good specified by the manufacturer. This is normally done on a quality torque wrench (Gray) to torque head bolts. Follow cold engine, though some engines are adjusted hot, so the engine manufacturer’s specifications and sequence as follow the instructions in your service manual. Remove the outlined in the service manual. bolts holding the rocker cover. Locate the timing marks (TDC) for cylinder one at the end of the compression HANDS-ON DIESEL stroke. Check valve clearance at cylinder one with a TRAINING feeler gauge and turn screw adjustment, if necessary. Repeat this procedure for remaining cylinders, following Do you want to learn more about your engine? Two manufacturer’s directions. Apply a high-temperature liquid firms that specialize in the sales and service of diesel engines are offering seminars for amateur mechanics in 2001. Mack Boring & Parts Company, headquartered in Union, New Jersey, in conjunction with Engine City Technical Institute is conducting one and two- day classes for owners of Yanmar engines at Mack Boring locations in New Jersey, Massachusetts, North Carolina and Illinois. Thirty-one classes in total run from January through to June at the different facilities. The one-day Basic Diesel Seminar (US$150) covers the components and operation of all models of Yanmar engines and is a prerequisite for the two-day, hands-on Diesel Engine Course (US$400). For information call 800/305-3487, or log on to www.enginecitytech.com. E&C Marine, Toronto, Ontario, offers a series of seminars for owners of Yanmar, Westerbeke, Universal, Volvo and Bukh diesels, as well as the gasoline Atomic 4 engine. The hands-on, one-day seminars (CDN$200) focus on the maintenance and troubleshooting of all engine systems and related components, drive train servicing, engine winterizing and more. For information, or to register, call 416/363-7770, or email to [email protected]. Class sizes are limited in all seminars, so register early to avoid disappointment. ANNUAL REFIT ProjectsProjects

There is probably no better way to spend an off-season weekend than puttering around the workshop. Here are some ideas to tempt you. Fiberglass STERN LANDING Easy-to-follow instructions for building a fiberglass swim platform with molded-in non-skid.

By Michael Myers Mold Making We built a table to support the mold during the project. The table was It all started on a summer day in 1.5m x 3.3m (5' x 11'), made of 1997 onboard our 1970 9.4m 2x6 fir pieces laid on end, with two (31') Chris-Craft. My wife casually intermediate pieces lengthwise, and said, “We need a swim platform.” covered with 19mm (3/4") particle My marina neighbor added, “You board. This sat on two saw horses. can’t build a swim platform too The female mold was con- big.” This seemed like a good idea, structed on top of the table. First, but the platform could only be 3mm (1/8") tempered hardboard Author’s party-size home-built fiberglass made of fiberglass so that the non- (like pegboard without the holes) platform nicely blends with the styling skid pattern would match the dia- of his older Chris-Craft. mond-textured non-skid deck sur- was cut to the shape of the platform faces. and four holes cut out for the non- 3mm (1/8") hardboard cut into The key to the project was how skid. This pattern was then glued 10cm- (4"-) wide strips laid on to replicate the non-skid. A year (with polyester resin) to the table edge, and jammed against the later, while sitting in the dentist’s top. Next, four light lenses were cut mold. These were held firmly in chair and staring at the ceiling, the to match the shape of the holes in place with about 30, 5cm by 5cm lens in the fluorescent light fixture the mold. Initially this was a prob- by 15cm (2" by 2" by 6") wood above inspired the solution. The lem since the lens would shatter blocks screwed to the table top. back side of the lens was probably when touched with a jigsaw or skill- Building the inboard edge was the pattern I needed to do the job. I saw. To prevent breakage, I used a difficult. I wanted the platform to headed directly to a school supply very thin cutting blade, one normally mount to the transom with a few place, bought some modeling clay used for metal, chucked into a drill contact areas, each about a foot (expensive stuff!), went on to Home that was clamped in a vise so the long, with cutouts between the plat- Depot, pulled out a fluorescent light blade touched the workbench, and form fastening points on the boat to lens, and laid it down in the model- then slowly fed the lens, cutting it to drain water. A pattern of the tran- ing clay. Sure enough, the pattern shape. Lenses were then glued to som’s vertical and horizontal curves was close enough for me. the table top. Resin applied with a was made of wood blocks and That night, still knowing nothing syringe filled the small gaps some boards that I cut and clamped of fiberglass lay up, gelcoat or the between the lens and hardboard until I had a piece that fit (not an particulars of female molds, my mold. The bottom of the mold now easy task on a floating boat). The wife and I returned for the materials formed the top surface of the plat- mold was cut to match the pattern to build the mold and work table form. Edges of the mold that formed and cutouts were formed from 2x4s, for the project. the platform edges were made of color, sprayed some glassing a platform. You’ll find addi- swatches and sent them to tional details in the how-book avail- 1/8" tempered 1/8" tempered hardboard Fiberglass Coatings to able from Fiberglass Coatings. hardboard match the gelcoat.

Light lens Wax fillet 2x2x6 blocks Day 1 Apply Release and Prep Test Gelcoat I’m one of those guys that Spray three coats of PVA at 60 psi. figures practice is for sissies, Spray 5 light coats of TR 214 with but in this case, I decided an auto sprayer at +/- 20 psi. Let that I should assemble some dry and wipe with a clean rag 3/4" particle board table test panels first. A mistake in between each coat. When the last DAVID AIKEN DAVID the final platform might be coat dries spray gelcoat with gun at Plan of female mold and table frame. irreparable, and I had 50 to 55 psi, at least 20-mils thick radiused and screwed inside the invested too much money to and let dry completely. In spite of mold. fail. I built some sections about what the pros recommend, I found I had no idea how to radius the 45cm (18") long, complete with the that in my test panels you must inside 90° angle between the top edge, piece of lens, wax fillets, apply the gelcoat thick, 1/16" to and edges (sides) of the platform. spray releases and gelcoat. I made 3/32" is about right; too thin and FiberGlass Coatings (813/327- every possible mistake. FiberGlass the resin-mat layer “melts” the gel- 8117), a Florida-based supplier of Coatings helped again by recom- coat. The mold was then covered so repair materials, suggested using mending a sprayable product that no dust could settle on it overnight. wax fillets, triangle-shaped pieces of would ensure the release of the non- wax about 19mm by 19mm (3/4" skid’s complex shape. (I couldn’t use Day 2 Lay-up Coat Klegecell by 3/4") wide and 45cm or 61cm a paste-wax release on the mold (foam core) with resin on one side (18” or 24") long, placed on the because of the textured non-skid.) and edges. Apply 3/4oz mat using edge, then heated with a stainless- a gallon of resin. Use a mohair Lay-Up Procedures steel ball until melted into a nice roller with phenolic (solvent-resistant) radius. It took practice to get the Before starting, I cut all the cloth to core and roll out mat with a ribbed radiuses just right. If the ball was too fit, numbered the pieces and stacked roller. Let cure, then cut out any air cold, it pulled the wax; to hot and it them in order so first down was on bubbles and patch. Apply 1-1/2oz mat using about 1-3/4 gallon of plowed leaving ridges on each side. top of stack. Also the foam core was At the same time, we started to work resin. While wet, lay down precut at about 7.6cm (3") smaller on the lay-up schedule and the particulars of releases, gelcoat spraying overall than the platform. If cut full pressures, etc. Since I wanted to size, the core would not match up order pre-mixed gelcoat, I pur- with the edge radius. What follows chased paint that matched the hull are the instructions I developed for

-Tip- FIX FOR GLASS VOIDS

Fiberglass cloth has a “springy” characteristic the can be a real problem when laminating a tight bend, especially where the bend is in a curved area of the molding, like the base of the hatch coaming, or, in my case, the keel of a wood strip kayak. This springiness can cause air bubbles and an unevenly cured surface that can result in hours of sanding and a weak joint. Here’s a way to avoid the problem. Purchase some 3/4oz cloth from a hobby store that caters to the model aircraft crowd. It’s as sheer as fine silk. Use a dowel or a broomstick that has the diameter of the cloth “bung” needed. Loosely roll about 10 turns of cloth around the dowel, and secure this with a little masking tape. To patch the bend, prep and heavily coat the area with epoxy resin, carefully slide the cloth off the dowel, then stick on the rolled- Diamond-textured non-skid pattern up bung. It conforms great and edges are easy to power-sand fair. (darker areas) is made with fluorescent — Doug Barnard, “Fiesta Bimbo,” Agoura, Calif. light fixture lenses. Cutouts in platform allow water drainage. DIY MATERIALS LIST I didn’t shop price, though I’m sure some of the materials could be purchased cheaper. Instead, I purchased all goods from one supplier. Any price differ- ences I considered as valued “consulting fees” since I couldn’t have done the project without professional advice. All prices are in U.S. funds.

Mold and table frame $70 19 wax fillets $14 1 #4 wax fillet tool $28 1/2 gal color-matched gelcoat $120 4 yards 3/4 oz mat, 60" wide $11 8 yards 1-1/2 oz mat, 60" wide $35 8 yards XM1808, 60" wide $66 1 piece 5/8" Klegecell $107 2 quarts TR 214 mold release $17 2 pints PVA mold release $8 2 5-gal cans low-profile polyester resin $179 1 pint MEKP $7 2 12cc syringes $3 1 1” by 6” aluminum ribbed roller $15 1 1/2” by 3” aluminum ribbed roller $10 1 G100 cup gun for spraying gelcoat $149 3 2oz containers Marine-Tex epoxy $24 Consumables (100 latex gloves, $30 mixing pots, etc.) Total $893

XM1808 mat (a double-bias mat stitched to a layer of mat), then wet back side of Klegecell with resin, lay in and weigh down until the resin kicks and holds it in place. Apply 1-1/2oz mat over Klegecell, then lay down XM1808 with mat side down. To build up the area where the platform mounts to the boat, apply 3 or 4 reinforcing strips of XM1808 mat on the transom edge, cut so it overlaps the core by a few inches.

Day 3 Let cure 4 days, at 15.5°C (60°F) minimum. Warmer is better.

Day 4 Trim the edges with a skillsaw, unscrew the edge blocks, pull the sides of the mold away. Now, just lift, and out it pops, if all goes according to plan. Since the mold release didn’t leave a perfectly smooth surface, the platform required about an hour’s worth of polishing and waxing to complete the job.

Mounting System For the custom mounting brackets, I had a local machine shop cut 8, 3.8cm by 3.8cm (1-1/2" by 1- /12") stainless tabs, and 8, 2.3mm (3/32") thick, Finishing details: Mahogany ladders extend to the wooden stern rail. Screw heads in the center of the platform on the outer edge hold a retractable fold- down ladder.

10cm x 10cm (4" x 4") plates. The tabs were drilled with two holes each, then welded perpendicular and centered onto the plates. This made four brackets for the transom and four for the platform. Where these plates mounted to the bottom of the platform, I cleaned the surface with solvent and sanded, then glassed on two, 30cm (12") square pieces of XM1808 mat. When cured, I glued on (using Marine-Tex) the plates after sanding the mounting surfaces. Next, I cut out some smaller pieces of XM1808, about 25cm by 25cm (10" by 10"), slit a hole for the tabs to stick through, and glassed them over the plates. We hauled the boat and dry-fit the platform. The four transom plates mounted below the waterline were bedded in 3M 5200 sealant and bolted with mahogany backing blocks on the inside and oversize washers. Tabs on the transom and platform plates connected with pieces of stainless-steel angle bolted with two 9mm (3/8") stainless bolts. These pieces formed a triangular shape that extended from the transom to about 20cm (8") from the platform edge. After bolting the platform to the transom, angled pieces were cut to their finished length, final bolt holes drilled, and everything bolted together. To completed the job, a telescoping ladder mounted underneath the platform, and I built two short mahogany ladders, one for ingress from the platform to the transom, the other mounted on the stern deck, extending to the wooden handrail that was cut back for an entryway. Total cost with all materials, tools and haulout was US$1,300, much more than I planned, but considerably much less than a custom-built platform, and it was fun!

About the author: Michael Myers and his wife cruise “Wendy Lynn,” a 1970 9.4m (31' ) Chris-Craft, from their home port of Baton Rouge, Louisiana. ENGINES

HOME BALANCING OF MARINE tape marked the culprit. Now, I had to determine how best to remove metal off the bronze prop. PROPELLERS Carefully, I removed metal from the hub area using a file and a wire brush to clean the file frequently. I By Ben Owen eyeballed this process without any fancy jigs or pro- While running my restored 1965 8.5m (28') Owens tractors. I continued filing and balancing until the prop cruiser, I noticed some vibration that I couldn’t track. balanced well on my jig. Polishing the filed area with Suspecting the propeller, I had it pulled and a local 60- then 120-grit paper and finishing with 220 grit, marine dealer repaired the nicks and polished it. I was completed the job. surprised that the dealer didn’t balance the prop. Installed back on the boat there was a noticeable reduction in vibration the next time I ran the boat. Though marine propeller supply and repair shops would have done a more professional job, my crude jig worked, and besides, I get great satisfaction from working on my boat.

About the author: Seward “Ben” Owen has spent more than 2,500 hours rebuilding and repairing the 1965 Owens cruiser he purchased in 1985, and berths in Oshkosh, Wisconsin.

IS IT AIR, DIY jig for balancing props. FUEL OR COMPRESSION? Since the shaking continued, I tried to eliminate all other usual sources of vibration. I replaced the shaft coupling, checked the engine mounts, aligned the engine and straightened the shaft. For the final effort, I hoped that balancing the propeller would help reduce the moderate shaking. The balancing jig I devised is not perfect, but it did the job. When either air, fuel or compression is amiss, I drilled holes in the workbench for four threaded your diesel engine will not run properly. The easi- rods to support two pieces of 2.5cm (1") angle iron. est component to check is the fuel system. Charles Positioning the angles with nuts top and bottom Gallimore of E&C Marine Toronto, Ont., recom- allowed me to level the angles across the bench. Using mends that you carry a gallon of clean diesel fuel a small level and a long straight board, angles were in a jerry can rated for fuel along with a spare leveled shaftwise along the bench. No attempt was length of certified fuel hose. Bypass your onboard made to trim the angles to knife edge tolerances, albeit tank and clamp one end of the hose directly to this is usually done when building a similar apparatus your fuel filter while the other end sits in the can. for balancing aircraft propellers. Run your engine for a few minutes off this reserve I was amazed at the amount of imbalance I found fuel and if it runs perfectly, than you can presum- when I placed the prop-shaft coupling assembly on the ably eliminate the fuel system and the source of supports. The shaft turned 1-1/2 to 2 revolutions, then the problem. halted with the heaviest blade downward. A piece of —Jan Mundy ProjectsProjects The filter housing is made of extremely durable plastic with a clear bowl for easy viewing. The bowl screws into the upper hous- FILTER DIRTY WATER ing and seals with a rubber O-ring. To obtain a larger By Don Boone screen filter, I took a 7.6cm (3") diameter piece of black Any marine engine raw-water-cool- PVC pipe, cut to fit inside ing system should be filtered, the clear strainer bowl. regardless of where the boat is Then I drilled 3mm (1/8") operated. Surprisingly, many holes through the pipe, inboard-powered boats are pro- about 12mm (1/2") apart, duced without seawater filters of completely around the pipe Seawater filter for inboard engines made of com- any kind. I began researching sea- from top to bottom. Start mon household products. water strainers after purchasing with smaller holes, run the “Endless Summer,” a Cascade 29, engine, and if you need more recommend you purchase the more in the early 90s. At that time, all I water flow then drill slightly larger expensive bronze automotive hose could find were expensive marine holes, though, I don’t think you’ll fittings. filters in bronze housings that were need to. This custom filter effectively much larger than my small four- On the top of the filter housing, strains the larger dregs that you cylinder inboard needed. There I epoxy glued a 90°, L-shaped don’t want inhabiting your engine was also the problem of space in bracket. Five small holes drilled block and provides adequate water the engine compartment for a large through the base allowed the epoxy flow for engine cooling. I used this filter. [Ed: Vetus offers myriad cool- to seep through for a stronger device for eight years without any ing water strainers made of thermo- bond. This bracket had two holes problems, it never leaked or came plastic resins with maximum capaci- for mounting to a vertical bulkhead loose, and the boat’s new owner ties from 23L-min (14gpm) to a in the engine compartment. still uses it. whopping 525L-min (140gpm).] Before you epoxy the bracket [Ed: There is debate about the I found my solution for less than to the filter, be certain the bracket advisability of mating plastic and US$20 on a visit to a filter specialty length provides enough clearance metal pipe fittings. Expansion co- store. I purchased a simple freshwa- between the chosen mounting sur- efficients are some concern, and ter filtering strainer (for houses) face and filter housing. If not, add thread compatibility is another. without the filter normally sold for a block spacer between the two sur- Consider the pros and cons before that unit as it was much to fine for faces. electing to mix the materials. One seawater and would restrict water An inlet and outlet on the hous- other concern is the effect that flow to the engine. ing accepts plastic pipe fittings. I vibration can have on common household type plastics. Since, the manufacturer intended application is a static environment, the makers of these units do not build them to withstand the unique hazards of life in the marine environment. When it comes to marine grade fittings, you do get what you pay for. Using household-grade equipment could be a short sighted economy.]

About the author: West Coast sailor Don Boone writes for 12 magazines, many of which are boating related, and sails a Catalina 30. Rigging

Edson pedestal refurbishing is an eco- HELP FOR TIRED nomical alternative to a costly pedestal paint job, plus labor and materials cost PEDESTAL STEERERS for repairing the steering gear.

Pedestal-mounted wheel steering systems become long-in-the-tooth with other maintenance parts, give you age. Bearings, chain, wire and an estimate for any parts or repairs other components degrade with not covered under the refurbishing wear, wheel brakes need relining plan, and pack everything in a new and the once bright white, smooth powder-coated pedestal complete pedestal finish is chipped and with new mounting bolts. Just faded. The reliability of the steering reinstall your like-new steerer, and system depends on the perfect har- go sailing. Pedestal-mounted engine mony of its parts, regardless of age, controls can also be restored for and a meticulous owner will want under US$100; pedestal guard top the system’s housing to look sharp, plates for US$56 or less. Allow two too. Edson, a Massachusetts based to three weeks for delivery in the off- company, offers its pedestal refur- season –- much longer if you wait till bishing program for about the cost spring. of an expensive folding propeller. — Jan Mundy If your Edson steerer is in need of an overhaul, contact Edson Customer Service (508/995-9711) to get your return authorization number. Disassemble the system, remove the pedestal, clean and degrease all the parts, and box everything, including the quadrant, wire, chain and other components that you would like evaluated or restored, and ship it to Edson. It takes about 2 hours to disassemble a steerer with a screwdriver and wrench. The toughest part of job will be removing the stainless-steel bolts that hold the aluminum pedestal base. These can be effectively welded to their metal neighbors as a result of corrosion , and freeing them could require power grinding. The base cost to refurbish the smaller model 335 steerer is US$275, plus US$80 to reline and renew the wheel brake; model 400 costs US$435 including the brake. Edson will inspect your steering system, replace the bearings, liners and ProjectsProjects

SAIL CHAFING GEAR Compared to the cost of a new sail, baggy wrinkles are cheap insurance.

By Don Boone ends together in a knot about 15cm baggy wrinkles. If you’re mounting (6") from the ends. Also tie a knot, them at the spreaders, start about Are your sails showing the telltale 15cm (6") from the loop end (top 17cm (7") above the spreader tip. skid marks? Those black marks illustration). This becomes the This places the baggy wrinkle from chafing sailcloth on shrouds top. It’s easier if you hitch these about the same distance below and during normal sailing activity. The ends to posts, or other convenient above the spreader tip. If you don’t sail luffing from being in “irons” or vertical (the mast), with bungee trust your knots, use a wire tie to running downwind with the main- cords. This keeps the twine line secure the loop end (top) of the sail resting against a lower shroud taunt will surely take a toll on a sail’s while you longevity and appearance. Baggy attach the wrinkles attached to the standing hemp rigging could be an answer to “brushes.” deferring the inevitable wear by protecting the sail from direct contact with the shrouds, while adding a distinctly traditional look to your boat. Spreader boots help to protect sails from tearing at the spreader tips, but not against sailcloth chafing. Baggy wrinkles are not new, in Cut the 2.5cm (1") manila line sisal twine. You then spiral wrap fact, they have been on traditional into 15cm (6") pieces. You’ll need your twine-hemp “fender” around sailing boats for centuries, yet you 18 of these to produce a baggy the shroud, working from top to bot- seldom see such nautical attire on wrinkle about 30.4cm to 38cm tom. Secure it tightly to the shroud modern cruisers. (12" to 15") long, depending on when you reach the end. The main talent you need for your boat’s shroud diameter and Weathering may turn your new making baggy wrinkles is patience. how tightly you wrap them. Now baggy wrinkles a darker color and You’ll also need hemp line, sisal separate one hemp section into they may not be quite as feathery, twine and some space to work with individual fibers, and attach these but they will provide the intended a couple of posts (stanchions will to the twine. To do this, loop each protection. If you’re the first one in do) about 2.4m to 3m (8' to 10') fiber strand around the outside of your marina to use baggy wrinkles, apart. I prefer manila hemp rope. the twine, beginning at the loop you’ll likely have many visitors ask- Almost anything else will crumble, end, tuck the ends down between ing what those “brushes” are doing rot or just plain droop in a rela- the two strands of twine (bottom in the rigging. tively short time, though some illustration), and pull. Push each boaters opt for synthetic line as it strand tightly against one another to About the author: Since the mid- doesn’t retain moisture that could lock them in place. Continue this sixties, freelance writer and author corrode aluminum spreaders. In process until you can’t stuff any Don Boone has sailed the waters any case, a 2.5cm (1") diameter more strands onto the twine. around the West Coasts of the U.S. piece of stranded line generally has Rig a bosun’s chair and go up and Canada, including nine years four twisted strands. the mast to the spreaders, upper living aboard. He currently sails To get started, cut a 4.2m (14') shrouds, aft lowers or the area “Itchy Feet,” a Catalina 30 out of piece of sisal twine. Tie the loose where you want to install your new Sequim, Wash. Electronics

A REAR VIEW Shopping for an inexpensive, 12-volt closed-circuit TV system to view events from the stern end is just a click away.

By Charles Husick plug-in power supply and address control for the camera; a 2.4 GHz Navigating in a narrow channel can receiver-converter whose output present problems when you’re unex- connects to a TV to display what pectedly overtaken by another boat. the camera sees; and a 120-volt Since few boaters bother to use horn AC to 12-volt DC power supply signals, seeing what is behind you for the receiver. can be as important as seeing The total cost of the system is ahead. What’s lurking behind you is US$98 with a certificate for an audio via the 2.4 GHz radio link to a special concern on powerboats additional US$40 worth of home the receiver-converter placed near that are operated from a lower helm electrical system products. The same the TV monitor. The output of the station or the flybridge where struc- system, but with the camera and converter is in the standard NTSC tural obstructions can block a clear transmitter in one unit, sells for format used throughout the U.S. and view aft. Sailboats steered from a US$10 less. Canada. (The joke is that “NTSC” pilothouse present similar limitations. As boats typically have an ade- stands for Never The Same Color, Some boaters have solved the quate supply of 12-volt power, the but that is another story.) The signal problem by installing closed-circuit AC power supplies won’t be is received on either TV channel 3 television systems with a camera needed, but don’t toss these as you or 4, or sent directly to the TV’s fixed to look aft and a TV monitor at can use them with the system at video-audio input jacks. The trans- the helm. These systems work well, home when it’s not in use on the mission range from the TV camera but are costly to buy and require boat. The camera consumes very lit- to the receiver-converter is about considerable installation work to tle power, less than 80 milliamps 30m (100'), adequate for most plea- route the coaxial cable from the (0.08 amps), making it practical to sure boats. Since the signal from the camera to the monitor. Now, there is power it from a small battery. camera is sent on the radio link the an effective, low-cost alternative that Although by no means a high system needs no coax cable connec- is available via Internet e-shopping resolution camera, the system pro- tions. All the camera needs is a at www.x10.com. vides a quite usable 310 TV line source of 12-volt power. The You can gain visibility aft with image, even in relatively low-lighting receiver-converter and TV, usually an easy to install, indoor-outdoor TV conditions. It’s more than adequate placed adjacent to the helm, also camera system from the X10 need a 12-volt supply. Company. You won’t need to run to view the boat about to overtake Antennas on the camera and coax cable, and the only wiring you at 40 knots. It has a fixed focus, receiver-converter are easily required is a 12-volt DC power sup- fixed aperture lens and built-in adjusted to provide a clear picture ply for each camera and TV moni- microphone. The microphone is of on the monitor. The use of 2.4 GHz tor. little use when the system is The X10 Anywhere Wireless employed as an electronic rear-view for transmission allows for very small Camera Kit consists of four elements: mirror, but it comes in handy if you antennas. The one on the camera is a color TV camera with built-in want to monitor the kids in the cabin only 5cm sq. (2" sq.). The camera is microphone connected via a 3.6m when the hook is down and you’re available in a white, UV-resistant (12') cable to a 2.4 GHz radio enjoying a brew on deck. housing, however with an overall transmitter; a 120-volt AC to 12-volt The camera transmits video and size of only 10.7cm by 6.3cm by Projects power drain by counting the amps you’ll save by stay- Projects ing up late to turn on the anchor light at the last minute, and waking in the early morning to turn it off. Consider assembling a simple photoelectric-controlled light system that turns the anchor light on when it gets dark and off when it’s light. (There are more sophisticated, off the shelf automatic anchor lights on the market at about twice the price of one you can make yourself.) You probably won’t need instructions to assemble this light as the parts speak for themselves. You’ll need to buy a pigtail and a simple light bulb socket (US$4) with two wires exiting the bottom of the base. As these wires won’t be long enough to reach from the anchor light location to the battery supply, purchase more wire plus properly sized butt connectors to The X10 Anywhere Wireless Camera Kit costs less than splice the wires. (Ed: All wires should be stranded and US$100 (less than a TV alone) and consists of a compact, meet the wire type and size requirements specified in color TV camera with built-in microphone and integral ABYC E-9’s wire sizing chart, or refer to “Wiring antenna, a wireless video receiver that connects to a TV to Handbook,” in DIY 1998-#4 issue.) You’ll also need an display what the camera sees and all necessary cable. auto light controller (available at Radio Shack, PN 61- 7.6cm (4-1/4" by 2-1/2" by 3") high it will be easy to 2776, for US$8). This is simply a photoelectric eye gad- devise a housing to protect the unit from rain and spray. get that senses light and darkness and is the brains of You’ll probably find other onboard uses for this the automatic light. From your local chandlery or mail- remote viewing-listening system. It can double as a order catalog store, purchase a supply of 12-volt, 15- babysitter for small children (equally useful at home), watt, DC light bulbs (US$4 each) that screw into a stan- used to monitor the engine room or perform as a con- dard light-bulb socket. Total cost is about US$20, versation piece at parties. depending on length of additional wire needed. Power Beware! The X10 web site may cause a toy addic- draw is slightly more than 1 amp per hour. tion. It’s a fun place to visit, with many interesting offer- To assemble, crimp the butt connectors to the pigtail ings. and to the wires leading to your boat’s positive and negative distribution loads. Use heat-shrink connectors to About the author: Charles Husick is a marine consultant eliminate moisture. Except for the crimping, it’s a simple and freelance contributor to numerous boating publica- screw-it-together project. tions, and a former president of Chris-Craft. About the author: West Coast cruiser Don Boone has AUTOMATIC ANCHOR LIGHTS used novel devices onboard “Itchy Feet,” a Catalina 30.

I’m always concerned about draining battery amps -Tip- SCRATCH PROTECTION when using an anchor light. Owners of bigger boats probably don’t share this concern Avoid cleaning and repairing floors, carpets, countertops, because they have plenty of decks or upholstery when doing renovations onboard by reserve battery power onboard. applying self-adhesive polyethylene film from Protective Products (800/769-6633, www.protectiveproducts.com) For smaller boats limited to one before you start. A better alternative to heavy-duty paper or battery used for all needs, the newsprint, both engine isn’t going to which tear easily, start in the morn- it’s available in various roll lengths ing if the anchor and finishes that light has stick to wood, car- drained pet, porous and the battery. non-porous sur- For faces and peels off when the job is about $20, done. you can avoid the ritual of — Jan Mundy trying to minimize the CENTRAL INTELLIGENCE

If you’re planning a repowering job, major instrument upgrade or extensive wiring rehab, this high- tech, time-saving “smart” system is the now-generation of electrical installations.

Story and photos by Jan Mundy

Imagine adding a voltmeter or chart plotter and after the dash installation it takes just 15 seconds or less to wire it. No crimping, no heat-shrink terminals. Just plug and play. Imagine having one screen that displays everything you need to know about your engine and boat: water depth, engine coolant temperature, boat speed, fuel consumption, battery voltage, wind speed, compass heading, rudder angle and more. This is now possible with Teleflex’s MagicBus, and it’s coming to a dealer near you. Using the latest in computer and marine technology, MagicBus is a control area network (canbus) that serves as a digital back- bone to connect intelligent instrumentation, remote displays and control devices. It consists of multiple main- frames, namely electronic control units (ECU), each col-

1 2 3 4 5

Teleflex MagicBus components: (1) Serial gauges connect to datastream for uninterrupted diagnosis; (2) LCD display provides selectable engine status and boat monitoring; (3) Smart main switch panel delivers multi-function control of electrical components; (4) Rocker-style switches function independently or via the network; (5) Fully-integrated chart plotter, fish finder and GPS; (6) Electronic shift and throttle offers adjustable detents for shift and throttle, self-calibration for individual driving styles, synchronization, multiple idle options, shift delays and safety features; (7) computer-controlled autopilot connects to existing hydraulic steering and inter- faces with a GPS. ProjectsProjects

Two “brains” collect data via the bus from the shift-throttle control then each one transmits to only one engine and a pair of shift and throttle actuators. Pilot computer (shown on the right) manages instructions from the dash-mounted remote hand-held control to the autopilot.

Installation of components is fast and simple with daisy-chain wiring and snap-together connections.

lecting and sending packets of information via the bus. Separate ECUs are required for each engine, one for high-power devices and one for electronic accessories, depending on the amperage draw. “Since the canbus can only carry up to 9 amps, partner pieces plug into different control units,” explains Joan Neill, marketing coordinator for MagicBus. “This means you can’t directly connect bilge pumps larger than 9 amp-draw, for example, so these link instead to separate control units that then transmit the signal onto the bus.” Available Teleflex Intelligent Systems (TIS) components that read into the MagicBus include: engine actuators, one for both throttle and shift, one pair per engine; analog gauges; autopilot; shift-throttle control; combination chart plotter, fish finder and GPS; main switch panel to control lights, power supply, stereo, etc; you repair, “Where normally all electrical upgrade or add wiring instrumentation components components eas- are ripped out and replaced point- ily. Daisy-chain to-point, MagicBus eliminates a ton wiring and of wiring,” says Neill. “The savings snap-together in time and labor using this technol- male-to-female ogy is unparalleled. Once equip- watertight con- ment and control boxes are nections mean mounted, all that remains is how you don’t have best to tag the cable.” to construct indi- For now, Teleflex MagicBus and Maze of wires forms standard gauge installation.Adding vidual point-to- TIS components are only available gauges to network is simple with plug and play connections. point wiring. to boatbuilders, with systems for Pre-assembled consumer purchase planned for and remote LCD that monitors all cables, available in different market by summer of 2001. engine and boat systems. Any TIS lengths, are complete with T-fittings, Suggested list prices start at components can be used in a straight fittings and waterproof ter- US$2,000 for a single station, sin- stand-alone system, in the network minator caps on ends. Cable and gle engine installation, which con- or easily added at a later date. ECU connections are all color sists of a ECU, actuator and shift- Since TIS are designed to the coded and of different shapes, throttle control plus options: pro- NMEA 2000 standard you can which makes assembly idiot-proof grammable throttle (US$100), trim connect any NMEA 2000 compati- (i.e. actuator cable can only plug switch (US$40), synchronizing func- into actuator port on ECU). ble marine electronics, (i.e. different tion (US$300) and all TIS compo- Functional, user-friendly and com- brand autopilot or depth finder), not nents. just TIS equipment. pletely modular, this system excels Plug and play installation lets in a repowering installation. — Jan Mundy

-Tip- THE PERFECT TOUCH-UP TOOL DIESEL RELAUNCH GUIDE • Clean engine and touch-up rust spots with paint. • Manually tension all V-belts. Minimize your rag inventory with 3M Marine’s reusable • Inspect anti-corrosion zinc(s) and replace as ScotchBrite High Performance Cleaning Cloth needed. Examine hoses and hose clamps for cracks (US$8/CDN$13.50 each). This patented cleaning tool cleans or chafe. and polishes without scratching, streaking or smudging sur- • Check wiring for corroded or loose connections. • Inspect engine fuse and fuse holder. faces, and • Check coolant level. often without • Check engine oil level. the need for • Check gearbox oil level. liquid clean- • Check engine mounts. ers. Use it dry, • Check engine pan for coolant, fuel or oil leakage. and tiny • Reconnect battery cables, check electrolyte levels microfibers and refill as needed. • Install new impeller. trap dirt, dust • Open seawater intake seacock. and grease. • Tape a bag over exhaust outlet to collect antifreeze. Use it with a • Start engine and run at idle for 5 minutes while solvent and it absorbs the dirt. When it becomes soiled, carefully observing engine and exhaust. Check opera- machine wash it up to 300 times (but don’t use a fabric tion of instruments, shift-throttle cables and the remote softener). Available in five colors in single or multiple stop control. Stop engine. packs. FYI: This product won the 2000 Boating Innovation • Pump out (or drain) oil in gearbox and refill with oil specified in owner’s manual. Award in the soft goods category. • Drain water from fuel filters. — Jan Mundy • Replace water separator-fuel filter and engine fuel filter. Woodworking COCKPIT QUARTERS Custom hardtop enclosure provides shelter and additional living and storage space.

By David and Zora Aiken In our first modification, we didn’t want to affect the overall look “My boat would be just perfect if it added side panels connected to the or character of the boat, and it’s was only 3' longer.” This is a classic windshield to create a partial wheel- impossible to picture the end result dream for a lot of boaters who suf- house. A new hardtop extended from overview plans, we photo- fer from bigger-boat syndrome. At from the windshield to just over the copied a profile drawing from an least one boat owner we know wheel. Except when wind drove rain original spec sheet, enlarged it and acted on that wish and lengthened inside, the helmsperson was covered began sketching alternatives. A pro- his boat. Not one to worry about and stayed dry. We traveled north file photo also provides a start for a naval architecture, he simply cut the and south with the seasons, so we basic drawing. Just copy it to a size steel hull in half, made a new center didn’t need any extra protection. that allows you to make easy alter- section, and welded the pieces ations to a convenient scale. For together. Obviously, no such add-on example, a 44cm (17-1/2") copy of was a feasible project for our fiber- our 35-footer gave us a scale of glass, center-cockpit sailboat but we 12mm to 30.4cm (1/2" to 1'). did find a way to gain extra usable Computer buffs can also do some space by enclosing the cockpit. rough three-dimensional views. It’s a Since the maximum beam of our good idea to transfer your design to boat is in the center-cockpit area, a cardboard templates or artist’s mat roof-over, coupled with the option of boards, and construct a full-size side enclosures (weather being the model. optional directive), gave us a new In the planning process, decide room without the need for any dras- if or what ports or hatches you tic hull modifications. This addition want, both for visibility and ventila- may not transfer exactly to other tion. Do you want doors or canvas, boat designs, but the planning and and/or screen enclosures on the procedures can be applied to simi- Starboard side of finished hardtop with sides? lar projects. enclosure shows vinyl “portlight,” and zippered canvas entrance aft on the Construction Details Renovations weren’t a one-time port side. change, but rather evolved over After cutting a rough template of the many years. Originally, our boat It took another 12 years, with aft bulkhead from 16mm (5/8") had a windshield with a very long, one winter spent dockside in a lati- tongue-and-groove look closely attached canvas bimini that covered tude that saw snow occasionally, to resembled the paneling on some of the cockpit. We planned to remove convince us that it was time to the boat’s interior bulkheads. A hole this strange looking combination entirely enclose the cockpit. We for the port was cut, then the final until a trip south changed our minds. could keep the boat warmer in win- shape, cutting the top to match the The enclosure kept us dry, warm, ter, cooler in summer, dry all year, curves of the existing hardtop, the and sunburn-free. We could travel and the shelter gave us the added bottom to match the aft cabin deck. on the worst of days, as we liked. bonus of a three-cabin boat. Cardboard templates and a com- For years we patched or pass used as a scribe made it easy replaced canvas, until we finally Planning to transfer lines and duplicate arcs. realized that there was very little So far, trading the canvas for a When marking the dimensions for reason to have a removable top. A hardtop hadn’t much changed the the aft bulkhead, be sure to allow permanent hardtop would be easier original look of the boat. But this sufficient height to accommodate the (and cheaper) to maintain, so we extension would require added sup- curves of both the aft cabintop and built one. ports aft and on the sides. Since we the new overhead. Construction Plan Schematic of Finished Addition

Dotted line marks aft end of original top. DAVID AIKEN

mahogany plywood, vertical grooves were mahogany, fastened with epoxy glue and screws. On router-cut into the ply at 5cm (2") intervals. This faux our boat, this framing curves inward slightly, matching tongue-and-groove look closely resembled the paneling the curve of the cockpit coaming. This gives the sides on some of the boat’s interior bulkheads. A hole for the graceful lines, helping to prevent what might have been port was cut, then the final shape, cutting the top to a boxy look. match the curves of the existing hardtop, the bottom to Now the 12mm (1/2") plywood hardtop was cut to match the aft cabin deck. Cardboard templates and a shape, allowing a slight overlap to be trimmed after compass used as a scribe made it easy to transfer lines installation. Because of the span we were covering, we and duplicate arcs. When marking the dimensions for did it in two sections. Other boats may be able to use the aft bulkhead, be sure to allow sufficient height to one sheet of ply. Using epoxy glue and screws, the top accommodate the curves of both the aft cabintop and was fastened to the frames. Where the new top met the the new overhead. old, a trim piece was added to cover the seam. Cleat stock, 2.5cm (1") square, was epoxy glued We fiberglassed the hardtop next by laminating a and screwed to the aft cabintop, and the aft bulkhead layer of cloth, saturated in epoxy resin. If your installa- was glued and screwed to the cleat, making sure the tion requires that you be able to stand on the top, add wood remained perfectly vertical (use a level). Next, wood beams on 30.4cm (12") centers to the underside mahogany trim, 19mm (3/4") thick, was fastened to the for support. If using polyester resin, you can also lami- inner edges of the bulkhead at the sides and top for nate a layer of mat followed by a layer of cloth for extra added strength and to provide a larger mounting sur- strength.) Fill any voids with thickened epoxy, sand fair, face for the adjoining panels. Side trim measures 7.6cm and then apply four coats of clear epoxy resin. A primer (3") wide; the top trim varies in width from 7.6cm (3") and two coats of white single-part polyurethane paint at the sides to 15cm (6”) in the center to match the finished the exterior. curve of the existing top. If your plan calls for an overhead port or hatch, cut Framing to connect the aft bulkhead to the forward the hole and fasten fore-and-aft stringers along the sides sections was lengths of 19mm by 7.6cm (3/4" by 3") of the cutout. On the underside of the new top, we posi- (right) An inside view through entryway; (below) bolt rope sewn to canvas slides in a channel mounted on the hardtop.

Small brass tacks hammered in at an angle temporarily fasten the ceiling panels, allowing easy removal for servicing of wires, etc.

tioned 6mm (1/4") thick, closed-cell foam insulation, These attach to the overhead, so they roll up and out of and covered it with 3mm (1/8") mahogany-veneer ply- the way when not in use. Lastly, we cut channels for the wood, held in place by small brass tacks spaced about mainsheet and other control lines, and installed a 12- every foot. This allows easy removal for access to wires, volt light. or whatever. To finish the sides of our new “quarters,” Our enclosure continues to evolve. After taking we added narrow plywood panels in the corners joining great pains to natural finish the mahogany ply ceiling the aft bulkhead, then varnished all inside panels. and aft bulkhead, we’ve now decided to paint the inte- Canvas “doors” closed in the space remaining rior white to gain more light and perceived spacious- between the side panels and the vertical end supports ness. We plan to mount handrails on the roof, and on the original hardtop. Each canvas side panel eventually, install solar panels atop as well. While we attaches to the hardtop by a bolt rope while turnbuttons are temporarily dockside, the cutout for the port in the at the sides and bottom hold the canvas in place. A aft bulkhead is used to hold a small, window-type air vinyl starboard side window lets in light, and two zip- conditioner in the summer. Eventually, it will frame a pers provide doorway access on the portside. We also window with sliding Plexiglas panels. [Ed: For a differ- ordered alternate screen panels for warm weather use. ent design and procedure to build an all-fiberglass hardtop, see “Building a Hard Dodger,” in DIY 1996-#4 issue.]

About the authors: David and Zora Aiken have written DIY ONLINE and illustrated numerous books on boating, camping and for children. They live aboard “Atelier,” a 10.6m FREE Email Newsletters (35') Chris-Craft sailboat in Grasonville, Maryland. Receive valuable tips and troubleshooting information DIY BILL with DIY boat owner's All prices are estimated and in US funds. 1 sheet 16mm (5/8") Lauan* marine bimonthly email newsletter. mahogany plywood $70 It's FREE! 2 sheets 12mm (1/2") Lauan* marine $100 mahogany plywood Mahogany trim (old flooring) $100 Fiberglass cloth $20 To sign up, just log onto 1/2 gallon epoxy resin $60 Rollers, gloves, squeegee, brushes $40 www.diy-boat.com Lexan port $30 and click on Cabin light and wiring $25 Opening port (not yet installed) $200 "FREE NEWSLET TER" Total $645 (*Meranti marine mahogany plywood is more commonly sold nowadays.) StarBoard

NEED A SWIM PLATFORM?

When the time comes to replace your wooden swim platform (or your boat is without one), this maintenance-free design is built of a do-it- yourself boat improvement material that’s easy to fabricate and install.

By Dwight Powell fix the problem, I decided to use Our Chris-Craft Cavalier is typical of more modern methods by building a many cruisers of its generation. It new platform of maintenance-free didn’t originally have a swim plat- King StarBoard. form. In the late ‘60s, lots of things I dismantled the entire platform, were free, but not the swim platform including the support brackets on this boat. It wasn’t even available mounted to the transom. These were as an option. cast aluminum and a few were bro- Years later an owner added a ken. But after a professional strip- Modern looking platform made of swim platform. It consisted of cast ping and cleaning, corrosion pin- holes filled and white powder- StarBoard makes a nice addition for aluminum supports with teak strips this classic cruiser. fastened on edge between the sup- coated by a company specializing ports. There were numerous prob- in this process, they looked new have a long, smooth shank before lems with this design. Teak strips (cost US$166/CDN$250). A local the threads start, making them made for an unstable walking sur- shop fabricated four new support appropriate for StarBoard fastening. face and often cracked. Strip plank- arms made of stainless-steel tubing Drill screw holes oversize to allow ing made it difficult to securely fas- and new transom mounting brackets for expansion of the StarBoard. I ten the boarding ladder and davit (US$133/CDN$200). used a tapered drill bit, so the entry brackets. The teak required periodic Reconstruction began with was wider to accommodate move- cleaning and refinishing, made rebolting the castings to the transom, ment of the StarBoard. Twelve strips worse by the narrow gaps between then fitting the support arms to the formed a solid platform with a few the strips. Paint flaked off the alu- aluminum supports and mounting cutouts for drainage. minum castings, leaving a blotchy brackets to the transom. All hard- It took 25 hours from the dis- appearance, much to my dismay. To ware was bedded with a good dose of polyurethane sealant. mantling of the old platform to finish- For the body of the platform, a ing the new one, which cost 4x8 sheet of 2.5cm (1") King US$815/CDN$1,222 to build. This Starboard (US$500/CDN$750) design provides an exceptionally was cut into strips on a table saw, strong base for attaching other then planed to size. Strips were laid equipment, and gives the platform a over the castings, assembled edge- pleasing, modern look. wise, one strip at a time, and About the author: Since purchasing screwed together using galvanized “Largo Lady,” in 1991, Dwight steel deck screws, the green-colored Powell has rebuilt, replaced or ones available at hardware stores. reconstructed most of the boat’s Household deck screws are a good superstructure and systems. Deck alternative for freshwater use, but resurfacing and adding new cabin boats in saltwater must use bronze windows, a bow seat and hardtop Original teak strip-planked swim plat- wood screws, preferably Everdur a extension appeared in “Facelift for a form supported by custom aluminum castings (top). high-quality alloy. Also, deck screws Classic Chris,” DIY 1999-#2 issue. Author uses a table saw and thickness planer to mill StarBoard.“It cuts and planes like wood –- even better,” says the author.

Refinished white powder-coated aluminum castings mount to transom before laying in StarBoard decking.

Edge-laid strips of 2.5cm (1") StarBoard, screwed on one strip at a time. Stainless braces fasten to castings and mount to brackets on the transom. MORE STARBOARD There aren’t many items onboard, made of fiberglass or wood, that can’t be fabricated of StarBoard. It cuts and shapes just like wood and is wholly maintenance-free. Since there isn’t space in this issue to profile all the items we built this year of StarBoard, here are some of our favorites.

Lid for cockpit bar sink made of 12mm (1/2") material. Note cleats that position and hold top in sink opening.

Lid for the head and a comfortable perch for a shower.

Easy-to-make storage bin for binos, flashlight, lines, and whatever.

Overhead bin for odds and ends just needs a 3M Dual Lock to secure front cover.

Before: Following 10 years of cleaning, sanding, and recoat- ing teak, it was time for a change.

After: New classy- looking, bright-white, no-painting-required StarBoard hatch board.

STARBOARD MADE EASY NOW ON CD-ROM If you’ve been a long-time reader of DIY, you know I have a great fond- ness for StarBoard, (or other polymer-type material such as Vetus Poly- Wood which is available in Europe), likely because I built and maintain a wooden boat. Since first profiling this material in our 1996 Boat Refit issue (DIY 1996-#4), we have covered myriad projects in the five (including this issue) subsequent Annual Refit issues. Past articles provide complete step-by-step details on cutting, milling, shaping, drilling, gluing, fastening and finishing StarBoard, along with building plans for various gear. Because some of these back issues are sold out, DIY has just released a CD-ROM of the entire StarBoard Collection. The cost is just US$19.95. To order, call us toll-free at 1-888-658-BOAT. — Jan Mundy ProjectsProjects Maintenance

fully maintained –- clean white hull, THE GLUE IS COCONUTTIEST TEAK -Tip- neatly furled sails, spotless decks. THE SECRET CLEANER When escorted on deck, I was By Vicki de Kleer shown a bin of sand and another containing coconuts, sawed in half, Maintenance work on boats is uni- which the ship obtains in Hawaii. To versal in scope and on a tall ship, clean the decks, the crew sprinkled with miles of rigging and masts, a little sand, then scrubbed using the some higher than 40m (131'), the cut surface of the coconut. The area work is endless. Scrape, sand and is then sluiced down with seawater paint, scrub and polish, replace and rubbed with a fine stone, worn gear and splice, even if the known as a “holy” stone. Deck line is as thick as your arm. cleaning was done on a regular The biggest problem with StarBoard is One of the ships berthed in basis, though I don’t know how fre- fastening it. Gluing requires complex Halifax, N.S, had a unique method quently, but I’m sure this abrasive, preparation and the special glue sold for cleaning teak decks. “Akogare,” grain-raising technique is rough on by the manufacturer isn’t readily a three- the decking. masted obtainable. Some builders join When you’re in southern climes topsail StarBoard using mechanical fasteners you may want to give this a try if schooner you have a teak deck. There’s plenty coupled with 3M 5200 sealant, but this built in of seawater and sand. All that you doesn’t provide the same high-tensile 1993 for need is a few coconuts and a saw! structural bond only achieved by glu- sail training. Now, there is another option. ing, had About the author: A frequent contrib- a Jap- Scotch-Weld Structural Plastic utor to DIY, Vicki de Kleer sailed anese Adhesive DP-8005 from 3M, previously onboard the tall ship “Lord Nelson,” crew that a 55m (180') three-masted barque, only available for industrial use in bulk Work onboard the Tall Ship “Akogare” includes a kept the in the transatlantic leg from Halifax, quantities, will be available next year new approach to deck ship Nova Scotia to Amsterdam, in The in retail packaging. A two-part acrylic- cleaning. beauti- Netherlands. based adhesive, it fastens hard-to- bond plastics (i.e. StarBoard) without HOW TO PLUMB BENDS mechanical fasteners or complex preparation. Just wipe off dust or oil. Plumbing a bilge pump, cockpit drains, sink or No plastic “welding” required. It’s thru-hulls often necessitates bending hose at acute angles. Most rubber water hose collapses available in white or black, and when tightly bent, and the cheap multi-flex cor- Scotch-Weld is easy to apply using the rugated stuff that does bend punctures easily 3M EPX Plus Applicator, 10:1 plunger and should never be used in critical installa- and 10:1 mixing nozzle. Cost for the tions. Vetus exhaust hose is the perfect solution. applicator is under $100; 35ml Form this hose into a tight coil and it retains its (1.18fl.oz) glue cartridges sell for $40 inside diameter without crushing or kinking. Unlike other exhaust hose, it can be used in pressure applications. The or less. The glue only has a three- 50mm (2") hose, for example, is rated for 174 psi (or 12 bar). It’s available minute working time, so you need to in various diameters starting at 30mm (1-3/16") ID. Vetus black exhaust have all pieces ready for assembly hose (look for the yellow stripe) is expensive at US$8 per foot for the 50mm before loading the applicator. (2") size, but a better option than using inferior hose or PVC tubing and adding elbows. — Jan Mundy — Jan Mundy Canvas HAPPINESS IS A BUG SCREEN!

With a Sailrite Ultrafeed machine and a few evenings work, you can sew this easy-to-make companionway hatch cover with built-in bug screen.

By Arlie Anderson canvas people, I constructed a com- Transfer your measurements Many beautiful anchorages and panionway cover with built-in bug onto Kraft paper, newsprint or card- dockside settings are made unpleas- screen for our newly purchased board using pencil and ruler. Cut ant by the presence of swarming Catalina 42. out the pattern, tape it to the com- flies and biting bugs. Sometimes, the This cover snaps over the out- panionway and make adjustments only way to escape is to go below side of the companionway and fills as needed. decks, close the companionway in the area normally covered by Now transfer the pattern onto hatch and deck hatches (don’t forget drop-in hatch boards. You’ll need to the fabric, using a chalk pencil and the vents) and sit in a stuffy, uncom- adapt the size to fit your hatch, but ruler. Before you cut the fabric, dou- fortably hot cabin. Long term sur- the basic assembly instructions will ble-check the size against the pat- vival depends on having good venti- be the same. tern. Cut the fabric using a hot knife lation, preferably a cross draft. Materials to make one hatch or wood-burning tool to eliminate Opening and screened portholes cover are: acrylic Sunbrella cloth, frayed edges. Cut the cloth screen- help somewhat, but a better solution 1.4m (4.5'); V-69 or V-92 thread; is to open the deck hatches. Our fabric screening, .91m (3'); heavy- previous boat, a Catalina 28, had duty plastic zipper; 19mm (3/4") custom hatch covers made by a nylon webbing, 1.4m (4.5'); 15 local canvas shop. With my new stainless-steel snap fasteners; and Sailrite Ultrafeed sewing machine, staples and/or basting tape. Total and some direction from the helpful cost is about US$40/CDN$60. Materials were purchased mail-order from Sailrite (800/348-2769 or www.sailrite.com) and some from the canvas shop. Besides a commer- CANVAS cial heavy-duty sewing machine, MADE tools needed include scissors, hot SIMPLE knife or wood burning tool, stapler, drill and bits, snap fastener cutter, punch and die, and screwdrivers. Sailrite (800/348-2769, Measuring www.sailrite.com) now offers The cover attaches to the front top seven how-to videos (US$15.95) edge of the companionway hatch, and CD-ROMs (US$9.95) on both sides of the companionway making boat covers, cushions, and to the sill at the bottom. It spinnakers and socks, sail main- should overlap the companionway tenance and more. The step-by- opening by at least 4cm (1-1/2"). step format makes these must Measure each of the four sides and viewing before starting a canvas the total height of the companion- project or repair. way at the center point. Be sure to — Jan Mundy include allowance for the overlap. zigzag stitching or a double row of straight stitches. Next, center the screen on the fabric, and trace around the edges. Temporarily fasten the screening in place with staples or basting tape. Sew the screening to the inside of the fabric using a zigzag stitch. Mark a pencil line on the outside of the fabric 5cm (2") inside the edge of the screening. Snip and cut the fabric along this pencil line, removing the center portion of the cover. Screen cover rolled up and secured with webbing tab. Note placement of The screening is now exposed on Companionway hatchcover with screen screen, zipper and snap fasteners. both sides. cover closed. There should be approximately side edge. Fold the fabric to the 3.8cm (1-1/2") of fabric border ing smaller than the cover, so the inside (wrong side) along this line, around the screen on the front of the screen edges run parallel to the and crease it using scissors handles cover. This is then folded towards cover and allow a fabric border of or some similar blunt instrument. the screening to cover the raw edge. at least 12.7cm (5") on the top and Don’t iron Sunbrella. Ironing it will To do this, snip 12mm (1/2") slits at both sides, and 15cm (6") at the destroy the UV protection. Cut a V- the corners (this gives a miter cor- bottom. shape in the corners using a hot ner), then turn under the fabric and knife to reduce the fabric thickness score it with scissors. Sew a row of Putting Together to one layer when folded (Figure zigzag stitching around the perime- To sew the hatch cover, first mark a 1). Stitch the hem to the inside of ter of the screening, 3mm (1/8") pencil line 5cm (2") in from the out- the fabric, sewing one row of inside the folded edge.

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No more storage • Searchable • Instant access anywhere 19mm (3/4") at Figure 1 both ends. Cut diagonal slits at the corners. Turn the fabric under (towards the zip- A view inside looking per) and crease out. Note webbing sewn with scissors. to sides. (top) Details of Zigzag stitch zippered opening with along this webbing reinforcement. creased edge. The screen Forming Corners (Top) V-shaped corner; Mark the placement for the zip- cover conceals both the screen and (Bottom) mitered corner. per above the companionway sill the zipper. To make one, cut a pat- and at least 19mm (3/4") below the tern the same shape as the hatch with a hot knife. Turn the top edge bottom outside sewing line on the pattern. Hold this against the cover of the screen cover under 2.5cm screen. Cut the zipper the same and mark the top and bottom hem- (1") and score the folded edge. Fold length as the bottom width of the lines. Now mark 2.5cm (1") above under one end of the webbing and screen. Staple the zipper in place (or below) into the top and bottom place at the center of the top of the on the back of the cover, then staple hem allowance and draw cutting screen so it lies between the hatch the webbing around all four edges lines parallel to the pattern edges. cover and the screen cover. Staple of the zipper. Sew a zigzag stitch Cut the fabric to match your pattern, the screen cover and webbing to the around the outside perimeter of the turn under hems on sides and bot- cover, just below the bottom edge of webbing. Using the same technique tom, miter the corners (see above) the top hem. Sew with a double row as for the screening, cut a slit on the and sew, using the same technique of zigzag stitching. The sewing is outside of the cover along the teeth as for the cover. Cut a 30cm (12") now complete. All that remains is to of the zipper, leaving approximately piece of webbing, sealing the ends install the hardware. ProjectsProjects Attachments Install turnbuttons at the bottom right and left corners of the screen. These allow the screen cover to be fastened over the companionway cover READY “SNAP” to provide privacy or rain protec- -Tip- FASTENER tion. Cut another 30cm (12") piece of webbing and hot knife the ends. Attach this to the center of the top Where you would edge with a stud (male) snap fas- normally use a tener. Fold under the ends of both bolt, buckle, pieces of webbing and check the hook, rivet, lengths: each should hold the hatch- screw, snap or zipper to secure screen cover securely in the rolled an item, consider fastening with 3M up position. Install socket (female) Dual Lock Reclosable Fasteners. snap fasteners about 2.5cm (1") These snap-lock closures feature from the end. mushroom-shaped stems that snap Install snap closures on the front together forming a high-tensile edge of the companionway hatch, attachment. Ideal for holding cush- side companionway frame and sill. ions to cabin sides or cockpit coam- Carefully mark the locations for ings, curtains to the overhead, lock these, then drill pilot holes and insert a drawer or door closed (or open), attach a drop ceiling or removable screw-in stud snap fasteners bedded panels in bulkheads or cabin sides in sealant. Mark the corresponding to access wiring and plumbing, snap locations on the cover and mount electronics, fasten flashlight using a snap setting tool, install the or binoculars by the companionway, socket portion. tack removable carpet, secure the boat hook or anchor, hang gear in Escape Below lockers, secure appliances, floor- Fasten the top snap fasteners to the boards, bunk tops and whatever companionway hatch, then duck else moves, rattles, shakes or slides. Available in clear or black, and enter the cabin. To secure the fasteners can be sewn, stapled or remaining cover fasteners, open the bonded to most substrates and are zipper (now you know what’s it resistant to just about everything. for!), reach out and fasten the Developed for industrial use and snaps. Close the zipper and you are widely used by boatbuilders, Dual now happily bug free in the cabin. Lock is now available to boaters in Do these maneuvers in reverse to mini-packs of different widths. remove the hatch cover. Your com- — Jan Mundy panionway cover will keep the bugs out and make accommodations below refreshing and enjoyable.

About the author: Freelance writer Arlie Anderson and her husband David have logged some 10,000 miles sailing the Great Lakes, Caribbean, and Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Most recently they sailed “Stand Sure,” a modified Catalina 42, on a circle tour from Toronto, Tensile strength of 3M Dual Lock is high enough to replace mechanical Ont., out the St. Lawrence River to fasteners in many applications. the East Coast and returned via the Hudson River and Erie Canal. Upgrade A BOATERS GUIDE TO PROPANE Here’s all the information you need to survey your boat’s LPG system and appliance

installations, including warning label details WRONG: This multiple cylinder system and quick-reference checklists for ABYC with manifold shut-off valve, regulator, and copper piping, does not comply standards’ compliance. with ABYC standards. Holes at the bottom of the gutter allow water to drain into the locker. Both cylinders and the copper piping show evidence of corro- By Susan Canfield Any fuel that burns with a flame sion.The steel bracket supporting the consumes oxygen and gives off both regulator is heavily corroded and has or many boat owners, petroleum carbon dioxide (CO ) and water broken loose from the side of the gas (LPG) is the favored fuel for 2 locker. If a LPG hose pigtail were used galley stoves, cabin and water vapor. In a tightly sealed boat cabin, to connect each cylinder to the mani- F the available oxygen can be rapidly fold, it would be far easier to remove heaters and refrigerators. LPG’s high and replace cylinders.There is no pres- calorific value and worldwide avail- depleted. This sets up a potentially deadly reaction since insufficient oxy- sure gauge.A solenoid shut-off valve, ability make it the popular choice. controlled from the vicinity of the galley LPG is composed of propane, gen results in incomplete combustion stove, was installed inside the boat propylene and butane gasses. It’s a and, instead of producing CO2, you under the galley sink. It should have gas at normal room temperature and get carbon monoxide (CO). This been installed in the propane locker. atmospheric pressure, but it liquefies combination of oxygen depletion and rior or in a dedicated locker where when pressurized, and vaporizes carbon monoxide buildup can be escaping gases will flow directly again when the pressure is released. fatal. [Ed: A discussion on gas detec- overboard. Secure each cylinder for This two-phase characteristic is what tion systems and the dangers of car- sea conditions, and provide protec- allows LPG to be stored in its conve- bon monoxide appears in DIY 2001- tion from weather and mechanical nient, concentrated form. #1 issue.] damage. With an exterior installa- Fine Tuning tion, it’s better to mount cylinders aft Aromatic Code As a marine surveyor, I find LPG sys- than forward where seawater or LPG is non-toxic and invisible, but it tems in many of the boats I inspect spray can cause corrosion. can displace the air necessary to sus- don’t meet American Boat and Yacht tain life. The law requires commer- Council (ABYC) safety standards. cially available LPG to contain an While most boat owners recognize the hazards involved -– explosion, odorant that lets you know there’s a fire, oxygen depletion and carbon gas leak. Even if you can’t smell that monoxide -– they are often unaware distinct odor, you should know that of the standards that apply to LPG leaking gas could still be present installations and appliances. Below since the odorant can dissipate even are ABYC recommendations for LPG systems, appliances and installations. though the gas itself remains. SUE CANFIELD Quick reference checklists appear on Released from its liquid state, WRONG: Flexible hose from the regula- page 58. LPG is heavier than air and will tend tor to the galley stove is not labeled. Note the unsealed exit hole with its to sink to the bottom of an enclosed Cylinders LPG cylinders must com- rough edges between the LPG locker compartment. If mixed with air in cer- ply with Department of Transporta- and the adjacent cockpit locker.This tain proportions and confined, it will tion (DOT) or American Society of installation requires a close-fitting grom- explode if ignited. (The lower explo- Mechanical Engineers (ASME) met, sleeve or sealant to protect fuel sive limit is between approximately line from damage and prevent any requirements. Look for the DOT or escaping gas from migrating into the 2% and 10% gas by weight in the ASME stamp near the valve. Install interior.The hose support is not sup- air mixture.) all LPG cylinders on the boat’s exte- ported as required. directly to the atmosphere so any escaping gas will flow overboard, and mounted above the boat’s static waterline. Recently, ABYC revised its A-1 standard, Marine LPG Systems, to recognize the LPG lockers that can be installed within a larger cockpit locker. These are popular aftermarket lockers often used to create LPG cylin- WRONG: The unsupported black hose runs from the molded fiberglass locker der storage on boats that did not SUE CANFIELD (at left) through the port cockpit locker incorporate the provision originally. If WRONG:The LPG locker is secured to and inboard of the manual bilge pump. you have one of these, locate it as the molding by two fasteners, and its bottom is unsupported.The locker has This hose is susceptible to damage by close to the top of cockpit locker as equipment stowed in this locker or by been distorted by the weight of the someone servicing the engine, water possible so that you cannot open the filled cylinders, and the gasketed cover heater and other systems accessed via LPG locker without opening the larger cannot be fitted.The white plastic vent the locker. one. To keep out seawater and rain, hose running from the bottom of the and to prevent loss or accidental locker to a deck fitting is useless for its intended purpose.The owner of this opening of the cover, the LPG locker’s Aluminum cylinders resist corrosion boat started with a perfectly good LPG better than steel cylinders, but are cover should be gasketed and locker and created a very hazardous twice the cost. In the harsh marine latched securely. The locker itself must installation. environment, they are well worth the be vapor tight to the boat’s interior. extra expense. Locate piping exits near the top of Pressure Gauge Each system Be sure you can access cylinders the locker and seal them with flexible requires a LPG pressure gauge on quickly without the use of tools. You grommets or other sealant. the cylinder side of the regulator to may need to close the valves manu- provide a quick and easy way to test ally in an emergency, and you don’t Locker Vent System The locker’s for leakage. The face of the gauge want to be hunting for a screwdriver vapor drain must be in the bottom of must be fully visible with the cylinder or a key to the locker. Also, you must the locker, and must be installed to in place. Perform the three-minute post a legible, waterproof warning prevent any escaping gas from enter- leak test described in Figure 1 page sign (Figure 1) in the immediate ing the boat’s exterior. The vent sys- 56 every time you open the system. tem cannot be connected to a cockpit vicinity of the cylinders. If your boat Pressure Regulator Each LPG sys- drain or bilge-pump discharge line. It has a gasoline engine, you must also tem must have a pressure regulator must run directly from the locker post the gasoline vapor warning sign designed for use with LPG. If your drain to the overboard outlet. (Figure 2). LPG cylinder is stored on the exterior All components of the vent sys- of your boat, make sure you locate Lockers In ABYC-speak, a “dedi- tem require at least 12mm (1/2") the regulator’s relief valve discharge, cated locker” is used for storing LPG inside diameter to minimize clogging. like the locker vent discharge dis- cylinders, The vent outlet must be above the sta- cussed above, at least 50.8cm (20") regulators, tic waterline and at least 50.8cm from any opening to the boat’s inte- valves and (20") from any opening to the interior rior. piping, and to keep escaping gas from entering absolutely the boat. The hose run must be Shut-Off Valve There must be a nothing straight with no low spots or pockets “readily accessible” manual or elec- else. It (or loops) that could trap water and trically operated (solenoid) shut-off should be block the flow of escaping gas. valve (remember, no tools allowed) made of that is operable within reach of the corrosion- Multiple Cylinder Systems appliance in the event of an emer- resistant Systems with multiple, connected gency. If the cylinder shut-off valve is material, cylinders need a manual shut-off accessible to the appliance, a sepa- with a top valve or automatic check valve at the rate shut-off valve on the supply line that opens manifold so each cylinder can be iso- is not required. In either case, you lated from pressure feedback from Fiberglass locker for one 10lb LPG cylin- should be able to operate the valve der from Trident Marine meets ABYC the other. This is in addition to the or its control without reaching across standards. valve on the cylinder itself. or through any flame and without risk flare fittings; short nut fittings, com- escaping when activated in an area UpgradeUpgrade monly used in refrigeration systems, where LPG or other ignitable gas are more susceptible to failure from concentration is present. It’s a critical vibration. Don’t even consider using safety feature for all electrical equip- copper tubing unless it’s specified for ment located in closed compartments. LPG use. Also, a copper line should Electrical equipment located in never double as an electrical ground. accommodation spaces and com- If your system uses hose, it must partments open to the outside be marked to indicate its compliance with Underwriters Laboratory’s UL21 LP Gas Hose. No hose clamps here, only permanently attached end fittings, such as a swaged sleeve or sleeve and threaded insert. Support piping using corrosion- JAN MUNDY resistant (and galvanically compatible WRONG: The same requirements apply if copper tubing is used) clips, straps to small stoves as to larger LPG cook or other means. Where piping stoves.This rusted “camp” stove onboard a charter boat was fully portable and passes through bulkheads, decks or not fastened securedly. Not surprisingly, lockers inside the boat, drill over- there was no oxygen-depletion warning sized holes and insert close-fitting grommets, PVC tubing or other proof being injured in the process. tective material. Ignition Protection Electrical Barbecues with integral cylinders are Fuel Lines LPG fuel lines are either designed to be used only on deck.Always sources of ignition must be ignition copper tubing or flexible hose. If your stow spare cylinders in a well-ventilated protected to prevent sparks from boat uses tubing, check for long nut exterior compartment. Warning Signs Obtain required warning signs from equipment manufacturers, or copy and laminate those illustrated below, and mount in locations as specified in this article.

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

Warning sign to be posted where Additional warning sign to be Warning sign to be posted where plainly visible in the immediate posted at connected LPG appliances plainly visible in the immediate vicinity of the propane cylinder. and in the immediate vicinity of the vicinity of the LPG galley stove. propane cylinder on boats with gasoline engines. WARNING Liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) is flam- WARNING mable and explosive. Follow these WARNING instructions to avoid injury or death Liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) is flam- from fire or explosion. Gasoline vapors are explosive. mable and explosive. Follow these • This system is designed for use with Open flame appliances can ignite instructions to avoid injury or death liquefied petroleum gas (LPG/propane gasoline vapor causing death or from fire or explosion. /butane) only. Do not connect com- injuries from fire or explosion. Turn • This system is designed for use with pressed natural gas (CNG) to this system. off all open flame appliances when liquefied petroleum gas • Keep cylinder and/or solenoid fueling. (LPG/propane/butane) only. Do not valve(s) closed when boat is unattended connect compressed natural gas and when appliances are not in use. (CNG) to this system. • Close cylinder valves immediately in Figure 4 • Keep cylinder and/or solenoid any emergency. valve(s) closed when boat is unat- • Keep empty cylinders tightly closed. Additional warning sign to be tended and when appliances are not • Close all appliance valves before posted where plainly visible in the in use. opening cylinder valve. • Close cylinder valves immediately • Apply ignition source to burner immediate vicinity of the LPG galley in any emergency. Keep empty cylin- before opening appliance valve. stove. ders tightly closed. • Test for system leakage each time • Close all appliance valves before the cylinder supply valve is opened for opening cylinder valve. appliance use. Close all appliance • Apply ignition source to burner valves. Open solenoid shut-off valve, if WARNING before opening appliance valve. installed. Open, then close cylinder supply valve. Observe pressure gauge Open flame cooking appliances • Test the system for leakage in accor- at the regulating device, and see that consume oxygen and produce car- dance with the instructions required to it remains constant for not less than bon monoxide. To avoid asphyxia- be posted in the vicinity of the cylin- three minutes before any appliance is tion, injury, or death from exposure der each time the supply valve is used. If any leakage is evidenced by to carbon monoxide, maintain open opened for appliance use. Never use a pressure drop, check system with a ventilation when using these appli- flame to check for leaks! leak detection fluid or detergent solu- ances. tion that does not contain ammonia. Do not use this appliance for com- Repair before operating system. Never fort heating. use flame to check for leaks! atmosphere that contain an LPG If you don’t see a label, check the vehicle or camping use to a boat is a appliance, cylinder, fitting, valve or owner’s manual or contact the manu- recipe for disaster. The LPG appli- regulator are not required to be igni- facturer for verification. If you can’t ances used on your boat must be tion protected. “Open to the outside prove that protection exists, replace designed for safe operation and built atmosphere” is a space with at least the device. It’s cheap insurance. with materials that can withstand the 38 sq.cm (15 sq.in) of open area per rigors of the marine environment. cubic foot of net compartment vol- Appliances For No LPG appliance should be ume. The solenoid valve installed in Cooking And Comfort installed in compartments containing the LPG locker and any other electri- Where systems fueled by volatile gas internal combustion engines (gasoline cal equipment that occupies closed are concerned, there is no room for or diesel), their fuel tanks or fuel sys- compartments with LPG equipment cost-cutting. Adapting appliances tem fittings. Onboard cooking stoves, must be labeled “Ignition protected.” intended for household, recreational heaters and other LPG appliances, all Remotely controlled shut-off at each appliance as well. solenoid panel Cabin Heater All tees inside Stove Burner controls must be the push- Remotely the tank controlled enclosure All tubing exits turn or other two-step operation type shut-off solenoid at top of tank when going from the off to on posi- enclosure tion to minimize the chance of acci- Continuous run of copper tubing Sealing grommets to the appliance, secured every dental operation. You should also be Pressure gauge 18" able to operate burner controls without reaching over an open flame. Regulator LPG appliances that function without frequent attention by an oper- ator pose special concerns. Tank enclosed Main valve Bottles well secured in vapor-proof Thermostatically-controlled equipment enclosure like refrigerators, cabin heaters and water heaters operate unattended. Any malfunction resulting in incom- A typical LPG installation that plete combustion can be fatal if it complies with ABYC standards. goes unnoticed. These appliances are required to have a sealed combustion chamber. In a sealed combus- Minimum 1/2" ID overboard discharge JIM SOLLERS Flapper Valve tion system, the air needed for combustion is drawn from the outside of system accessories and fuel supply sign in Figure 3 must be plainly visi- the boat and the byproducts of com- must be installed to prevent upset, ble from the vicinity of galley stoves, bustion are exhausted to the outside. displacement or any strain. as applicable. Gasoline vapor Air inside the boat is not consumed, Post operating instructions at (Figure 2) and oxygen depletion so oxygen levels remain constant, each LPG appliance. The warning (Figure 3) warnings must be posted (Continued on page 52)

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Free Newsletter Technical Helpline Sign up for a bi-monthly dose of more When you need help with a problem, maintenance tips and projects click here to reach our Technical Helpline. For subscribers only! Shop Online The place to purchase the current Archives issue, back issues, MRT CD-ROMs, An editorial index of all DIY articles Hands-On Boater CD-ROM, and from 1995 to the current issue! renew your DIY Subscription DIY EZINE Subscriber Services The 7 most recent issues of DIY - All Click here to notify DIY of an address Online! No more storage, searchable, change, a missing copy, or for a and accessable from any port. subscription expire inquiry LPG APPLIANCES Controls Cooking Appliances with ❏ Two phase, e.g., push-turn. Integral LPG Cylinders The information below includes ❏ Operable without reaching over ❏ DOT approved 2P/2Q cylinders requirements applicable to galley open flame. with rim vent release. stoves or cabin heaters fueled by ❏ No more than 8oz fuel capacity if LPG. Other fueled appliances may Burners used or stored inside boat. have additional requirements. ❏ Operate safely at pitch, roll and ❏ If cylinder attached, stored in venti- Installation heel angles up to 30° from lated location protected from ❏ Not in space containing internal horizontal. weather and mechanical damage. combustion engines, their fuel tanks ❏ Sealed combustion system if ❏ or fuel system fittings. unattended. Unattached cylinders stored on ❏ Secured to prevent upset, ❏ No pilot lights or automatic boat’s exterior, where escaping displacement or strain on system ignition devices if non-sealed com- gas will flow directly overboard. and connections. bustion system. ❏ Warning sign for externally ❏ Operating instructions posted ❏ Exception: Pilot light that operates mounted grills/galley stoves with at appliance. only when oven is operating. fuel cylinders of more than 8oz ❏ LPG warning sign at galley. ❏ Oxygen-depletion sensor if (if applicable). ❏ Oxygen-depletion warning sign. non-sealed combustion system. ❏ Oxygen-depletion warning sign ❏ Gasoline vapor warning sign ❏ Flame failure devices on all (fuel burning stoves other than (if applicable). burners and pilot lights. externally mounted grills).

LPG SYSTEM ❏ Dedicated; not connected to other ❏ Flexible LPG hose section (if gim- piping. baled stove). Use this checklist to determine if your ❏ Led outboard through hull to point ❏ Supported by corrosion-resistant boat’s LPG system complies with cur- below locker bottom and above static clips, straps or other devices rent ABYC standards. waterline. designed to prevent damage to lines. Cylinder(s) ❏ Outlet at least 50.8cm (20") from ❏ Installed so bulkheads will not cut, ❏ Located on boat’s exterior, where any opening to boat’s interior. abrade or damage lines. escaping gases flow directly ❏ No low spots or loops that could ❏ Protected by non-abrasive grom- overboard or in a dedicated locker. trap water. mets, sleeve or sealant where run ❏ DOT/ASME compliant. through decks or bulkheads. ❏ Secured for sea conditions. Pressure Regulator ❏ Designed for use with LPG. Multiple Cylinder Systems ❏ Protected from weather and ❏ Relief valve discharge at least ❏ Manual shut-off valve or automatic mechanical damage. check valve at manifold. ❏ Accessible without tools. 50.8cm (20") from any opening to boat’s interior. ❏ LPG warning sign. Pressure Gauge ❏ Gasoline vapor warning sign (if Shut-Off Valve ❏ On cylinder pressure side of applicable). ❏ Manually or electrically operated. regulator. Locker ❏ Operable from vicinity of appli- ❏ Dial fully visible. ❏ Not used for storage of other ance in event of fire. ❏ System passes leak test. ❏ Operable without reaching over equipment. Ignition Protection ❏ Top opening directly to outside open flame. ❏ Electrical devices in closed com- atmosphere. Fuel Lines partments containing LPG appli- ❏ Corrosion-resistant material. ❏ Continuous from regulator or sole- ances, cylinders, fittings, valves or ❏ Located above static waterline. noid valve to appliance or flex sec- regulators are ignition protected. ❏ Gasketed cover; tightly latched. tion if appliance is gimbaled. ❏ Exceptions: (1) Accommodation ❏ Vaportight to boat’s interior. ❏ Annealed copper with long nut spaces and (2) compartments hav- ❏ Vented at bottom. flare fittings or LP Gas Hose with per- ing at least 38 sq.cm (15 sq.in) of Vent system manently attached end fittings. open area per cubic foot of net ❏ Minimum 12mm (1/2") inside ❏ Metallic fuel lines (if installed) not compartment volume exposed to the diameter (all components). used for electrical ground. atmosphere outside the boat. and there is no If your boat’s LPG system and appliances do not -Tip- SAFETY GUIDELINES contamination of meet current ABYC standards, make the necessary interior air by repairs or upgrades for your own safety. Consult the ref- exhaust gasses. erences listed below for additional information. Only sealed sys- Knowledgeable marinas, boatyards and marine chand- tems may incorpo- leries typically maintain a copy of the ABYC standards rate pilot lights or for staff and customer reference. You can direct specific Don’t mess with LPG systems. If other automatic questions concerning LPG safety standards to ABYC’s ever you’re unsure about a specific ignition devices. technical staff at www.abycinc.com or call 410/956- procedure or installation, consult a An LPG cook- 1050. certified propane installer. Read and ing stove is an follow all safety procedures out- example of an About the author: Susan Canfield is an accredited lined on the warning labels on page attended appli- marine surveyor with Marine Associates, Inc. of 56. Post these warning labels on ance. During nor- Annapolis, Maryland. She is a member of the Society your boat in the locations as speci- mal operation of Accredited Marine Surveyors and the American Boat fied in ABYC standards. One item (cooking) a stove not mentioned but highly recom- and Yacht Council. is frequently mended is to install a marine-qual- attended by the References ity (i.e. Xintex MS-2) fume detector that monitors the buildup of gas in cook. Stoves are “Standards and Recommended Practices for Small the bilge and sounds an alarm if it not required to Craft,” published by the American Boat and Yacht reaches an unsafe level. have sealed com- Council: A-1, Marine LPG Systems; A-3, Galley Stoves; — Jan Mundy bustion chambers, A-26, LPG and CNG Fueled Appliances; A-30, and could not do Cooking Appliances With Integral LPG Cylinders. their work if they did because the flame produced by the “Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual fuel is used as the heating element. These appliances can (Second Edition),” by Nigel Calder, published by have pilot lights or other automatic ignition devices. Non- International Marine. sealed combustion system appliances require an oxygen- depletion sensor that cuts off the fuel supply to the appliance if the oxygen level in the space falls below 95% of normal. Check the owner’s manual to determine if your attended LPG appliance is equipped with this sensor. Flame failure devices are required on all burners and pilot lights on both unattended and attended appliances to prevent gas from flowing when a flame is not present.

Camping Gear Cooking appliances with integral cylinders, such as camp stoves and externally mounted grills, are common onboard boats. These stoves are convenient and good alternatives to alcohol cookers, but don’t confuse them with “camp” stoves that use a 14-ounce fuel cylinder. Stoves approved for marine use must be fueled by DOT-approved 2P/2Q 8- ounce cylinders with rim vent release. Don’t stow or use any LPG cylinders with more than 8oz of fuel capacity. Use the stove in a ventilated location, out of the weather and the risk of damage. Stow unattached reserve cylinders on the boat’s exterior where escaping gas will flow directly overboard. [Ed: For instructions to build a holder for LPG canisters, see DIY Projects, 2000-#3 issue.] Externally mounted grills and camp stoves with 8oz or larger LPG cylinders must be labeled as follows: “Do not use this appliance inside the boat or in any enclosed space.” Also, post the oxygen-depletion warning sign (Figure 4) adjacent to all fuel-burning stoves with integral cylinders. Maintenance DECK COVERINGS Dull, faded and worn deck surfaces crying out for a renewed finish that looks good, gives protection to the fiberglass beneath, and one that provides a secure footing for the crew, can be a do-it-yourself project. A professional tells you how to apply non-skid over new or existing decks using Interlux paint finishes.

By Bob Wright he short recipe to maintaining a fiberglass hull is regular clean- Ting, waxing and compounding when needed. Textured, non-skid deck surfaces are a more challeng- ing matter, and a worn, slippery with a brush. Interlux Interthane Plus deck is an accident waiting to hap- is especially well suited for deck pen. One way to spruce up a tired refinishing. It’s a two-part linear ure- deck, other than having an expen- thane developed for brush applica- Read and follow all application sive commercial non-slip finish pro- tion using the roll-and-tip method. instructions carefully. Mix only what fessionally applied, is to paint it. After rolling, the roller stipple and you will use in a 4-hour period. There is no single, universally roller marks are leveled out with a About 946L (1 qt) of non-skid addi- proven deck surface that will prevent high quality natural bristle brush. It’s tive covers 80 square feet if shaken people from slipping on a boat easy to apply on decks where the on (not pre-mixed); 946L (1 qt) of deck. There are an almost infinite non-skid pattern is already present Interthane covers roughly 200 number of variables that affect “non- or one is created with the addition square feet per coat. Add a flatten- skid” performance, no matter how of a non-skid additive, and patterns ing agent (Interlux 2317) to reduce high-tech or famous the footwear, no help to hide any imperfections. matter the ingenious technology of gloss if desired. Thin the paint dur- the boatbuilder’s deck molding. Preparation ing application as needed to main- There’s no such thing as “non-skid.” Interthane is applied to gelcoat or to tain a working viscosity. It’s best to A low-cost, slip-resistant, alias non- a properly prepared epoxy substrate mask all deck hardware, bright- skid or non-slip, finish can be cre- primed with Interlux 404/414 work, etc. before coating with 3M ated (or recreated) by first priming Epoxy Barrier-Kote. As a general Fine Line, 3M Long Mask or 3M the surface with an epoxy barrier rule, two-part paints are not applied 233 tape. You can also coat hard- coat, then applying paint, either over single-part coatings. Such ware with petroleum jelly to facilitate mixed with a non-skid additive or paints may not provide a stable sub- removal of paint drips or splatters. the additive sprinkled over the wet strate for the very durable Interthane Start painting mid-morning as paint. Plus and more importantly, strong soon as the dew has completely A deck demands a tough coat- solvents in the two-part product may dried from the surface. If the deck ing to protect it from the damaging lift the single-part paint. One-part was prepped the day before, wipe effects of foot traffic, anchors and paints should be removed, or if down only the bare gelcoat with other gear that descend upon it. impractical, primed with Interlux 2333N solvent. Optimum working Two-part urethane paint is your best 2100 Multithane Primer. This pro- choice for the job. It provides the vides a barrier between the -Tip- CLEAN UP most durable, abrasion-resistant, Interthane and the old paint. For longest-lasting finish. Contrary to best results, remove any question- If water is allowed to stand in deck popular opinion, two-part paints are able coating down to a sound sub- spillways, any above-water coating not beyond a novice’s skills to apply. strate. system may fail or blister. Be sure Working times are manageable (6- Surface preparation is 75% of to mop up standing water, espe- to 8-hour pot life), and you can the job so take extra care to prop- cially when the coating system is new. attain a highly satisfactory finish erly ready the deck for the process. temperatures for deck coatings are steel wool. Its fibers are ferrous Epoxy is a very hard coating that from 10°C to 29°C (50°F to 85°F). metal, and, when they break away, quickly dulls sandpaper. For the best Avoid applying any coatings when you’ll likely have rust specks on the results use 3M Gold paper or an nighttime temperatures might fall finished deck. equivalent. The barrier coat fills below 10°C (50°F). When working Step 2 Apply one very thin coat of small imperfections and any porosity outdoors, cover coated areas at Interthane Plus, thinned 15% to 25% typical in weathered gelcoat. Fill night to keep horizontal surfaces with 2333N solvent, using a low- any age cracks with 417/418 and from flattening from any dew that nap foam roller with a solvent-resis- sand fair prior to applying the forms on the coating before it’s fully tant core (i.e. Interlux R7) and primer. Note: Damage caused by cured. This is especially true of two- tipped off with a good quality nat- fracture cracking or flexing of the part urethanes, which are 25% ural bristle brush. laminate must be fixed by reinforc- moisture cured and flatten more eas- ing the deck, either from above, or Step 3 Allow to dry at least 2 ily. Keep nighttime dew off the sur- below with several layers of cloth hours, no more than 8 hours at face for at least two days, longer if and resin before a coating system is 17°C (70°F), or until the paint is no nighttime temperatures fall below applied, or the crazing will return. longer sticky to the touch. If the max- 10°C (50°F). Allow 7 to 10 days for [Ed: For how to repair structural imum overcoat time is exceeded, the paint to fully cure and reach its cracks in fiberglass, see DIY 2000- sand again with fine bronze wool. maximum abrasion resistance. #3 issue.] There are two different refinish- Step 4 Carefully apply a second Step 2 Apply one coat of Interlux ing methods depending on your thin coat, thinned 15% to 25% with 404/414 Epoxy Barrier-Kote, deck type: those with a molded, 2333N solvent, to the tack-free sur- thinned 20% with 2333N solvent non-skid pattern, those with a non- face. Don’t overwork the paint or using a low-nap foam roller with a skid pattern that needs to be created the solvents may resolvate (soften) solvent-resistant core (i.e. Interlux or the pattern is worn away. the first coat. Take care to tip this coat without over brushing. Application: Gelcoat -Tip- SAFEKEEPING Non-skid Application: Shake ‘N Bake Urethanes and epoxies contain Step 1 Clean the deck area to be strong solvents. A good quality res- coated with medium to coarse Step 1 Remove surface contami- pirator designed for use with these bronze wool, and wipe down with nants and wax from the deck area products is a must. We recommend Interlux 202 Solvent Wash. Work a to be coated with Interlux 202 a 3M 6000 series respirator with Solvent Wash using the two-wipe 6001 cartridges, 5n11 filters and method. Wipe on the solvent with 501 retainer (about $30 for the set). one lint-free rag, then quickly wipe it Paper masks are useless against sol- off with a clean rag before the solvents. Two-part linear urethanes vent dries. Sand with 80- to 120-grit also contain isocyanates, which are paper to a mat finish. Repair any dangerous if inhaled or left in contact with the skin or eyes. Be sure damaged areas with 417/418 fair- you have adequate ventilation and a ing compound, and evenly feather full body suit (disposable overalls the edges to the existing surface, are best) and rubber gloves are a INTERLUX YACHT FINISHES INTERLUX YACHT carefully following the manufac- must. Carefully read and follow the turer’s application instructions. health and safety guidelines for all small area at a time, scrubbing in Vacuum the area and wipe with products. Be sure to read the MSDS different directions, and wiping up Interlux 2333N solvent to remove all (material safety data sheet) pro- the solvent residue before it evapo- remaining dust. vided with each Interlux product. rates. Repeat the solvent scrub to If the spillways (shiny deck This information is also available on remove all old wax and contamina- areas with no non-skid pattern) are the Interlux website, www.Interlux.com. Interlux also tion. This also creates an anchor in poor shape, after vacuuming and maintains a product telephone pattern for proper adhesion of the wiping with solvent, apply a coat of helpline at 1-800-468-7589 to help Interthane to the gelcoat. An aggres- 404/414 Epoxy Barrier-Kote, with your questions about Interlux sive anchor pattern is important, as thinned 20% with 2333N. When products and application proce- the paint doesn’t use a primer fully cured, sand with 220-grit dures. because of its tendency to fill in the paper, changing paper frequently to — Jan Mundy existing non-skid pattern. Don’t use create a good anchor pattern. R7), and tip off with a good quality a non-skid pattern. paint. [Ed: See DIY 1998-#2 issue, natural bristle brush. Apply an even Often the non-skid is added “The Art of Topside Painting” for film, coating all indentations, but not directly into the paint, a procedure more application techniques and filling them. The thickness of the outlined on the label instructions. painting tips.] paint will load the non-skid. This is an acceptable application Step 3 When cured, sand with method, especially in small areas, About the author: Bob Wright 220-grit paper to a mat finish, but the paint must be applied in thin resides in Cape Cod, Mass., and is changing paper frequently to prevent coats, rolling in one direction. Over a sales and technical service rep for clogging the grit, which can prevent rolling causes an uneven or blotchy Interlux Yacht Finishes. a sufficient anchor pattern for good finish due to the different densities of paint adhesion. Vacuum the area, the non-skid. -Tip- PAINTING HINTS and wipe down with 2333N solvent Step 6 Allow to dry no less than 2 using the two-wipe method. hours, no more than 8, at 17°C Step 4 If the deck has both non-skid (70°F) or until the paint is no longer areas and spillways, mask non-skid sticky to the touch (tack-free). Then areas with 3M Fine Line, 3M Long you can carefully move around the Mask or 3M 233 tape. Round the boat to apply the second coat. taped corners using a quarter as a Step 7 Carefully vacuum up all non- • Don’t paint in the same clothes pattern, and cut with a sharp single- skid additive that did not adhere to you wear for sanding. edged razor blade, or Exacto knife the first coat. • Wear a properly fitted respirator. to create a factory-like finish. Step 8 Remove tape if both non- • Work in small areas. Step 5 Roll on one very thin coat of skid and glossy, smooth areas are to Interthane Plus, thinned 15% to 25% be the same color. Always pull mask- • Don’t use paint directly from the can. Pour an amount you expect to with 2333N solvent, applied with a ing tape at a 45° angle to the wet use in 30 minutes into a paint tray. low nap foam roller with a solvent- paint to leave a clean edge. Leaving resistant core, (i.e.Interlux R7). Work the tape on gives a sharp, raised • Roll and tip in different direc- in small areas, and tip off with a nat- edge that will attract dirt later. tions. Roll on the paint in one direction and then tip off with ural bristle brush. Using a salt shaker Many boats have two-tone decks brushing crossways. or fine sieve (or punch holes in a with white or off-white spillways and plastic bag or tin can), shake on a off-white, beige, light blue or light • Add thinner during application as heavy layer of non-skid additive such gray non-skid areas. If this is the needed to maintain good paint flow. as Interlux 2398, a product contain- look you want, paint the non-skid ing round, hollow spheres that soak areas first, remove the tape, allow • Stir the paint frequently during up the coating and expand to form the Interthane to dry, then carefully application to prevent separation. paint the spillways. If you paint the • Change brushes every 20 minutes spillways first, you’ll have to remove to avoid overloading with paint. the tape, and when the Interthane • Always keep the lid tightly dries, retape over the spillways, and sealed on the paint can to prevent then coat the non-skid areas. Either solvent evaporation, which causes way, the Interthane must be fully the paint to thicken. cured, about 3 to 5 hours at 17°C • If painting indoors in a heated (70°F). Lacking a full cure or if there shop, be aware that kerosene or is marginal adhesion to the primer propane heaters create moisture, or bare gelcoat, the paint may which can affect the cure. Any car- delaminate when the tape is bon-fueled heater is also a source removed and require touch up. of carbon monoxide, a toxic vapor that is odorless, colorless and Step 9 Apply a second thin coat of deadly. Also, open flame heating Interthane Plus, thinned 15% to 25% appliances can be sources of igni- with 2333N solvent, to the entire tion, which can cause fire and/or deck. Don’t over roll or brush out explosion. the paint or the solvents may resolvate. If this occurs, a longer dry time • Don’t shrinkwrap a painted boat as the paint may blister.

INTERLUX YACHT FINISHES INTERLUX YACHT is needed, or you’re overworking the CLIP-ON CANVAS ANCHORS

By David and Zora Aiken color of the background For some time, boatowners have bulkhead so it’s least been protecting exterior brightwork noticeable. with custom-made fabric covers of • Use U-shaped wood various sizes and shapes. This pre- trim to cover wiring that vents damaging UV rays from reach- runs along an interior ing varnished surfaces, but often bulkhead or across a sec- requires drilling holes to fasten tion of the overhead. snaps or turnbuttons that hold the covers in place. ring, making the opening slightly • Where possible, use a Here’s a simple, noninvasive smaller than the top of the rails. Fit router to gouge a channel deep solution for narrow toe rails or the canvas covers over the rails, enough for the wire. Triple-check the handrails. Buy thin walled PVC pipe then pop the rings (now inverted U- depth before cutting, then cover the of the appropriate diameter. Slice it shaped “clamps”) in place every routed area with an appropriate trim into 3.8cm or 5cm (1-1/2" or 2") 60cm (24") or so. piece. segments. Cut through each slice to create an expandable ring. You will • If a wood trim piece is already in need to cut away a portion of each WIRE CAMOUFLAGE place, remove it and router the wire- Whether you’ve done some remod- enclosing channel into the inside sur- eling, added a new gadget or it’s face. just time to rewire your boat, here are some tips to contain or hide the • A junction box should be accessi- wiring for a neater, ble. Cut an access hole to place it safer installation. As with any such project, be careful not to nail, screw or staple into the wire itself. Also, watch places where wire leads around a corner or through a hole in the bulkhead; there should be no abrupt bends or sharp edges that could cause where it’s most convenient then chafing of the wire’s protective coat- cover the cutout with a decorative ing. wood cap.

• In the engine room, group wires About the authors: David and Zora inside a flexible conduit, then run Aiken are the authors and illustrators the conduit along stringers or of numerous boating, camping and beams, holding it in place with children’s books, including “Good screw-on cable ties. Boatkeeping” and “Good Cruising” published by International Marine. • Use a solid conduit to contain and They live aboard “Atelier,” in protect wires. Paint it to match the Grasonville, Maryland.