Indian and Affaires indiennes Northern Affairs et du Nord Wild Rivers:

Parks Canada Parcs Canada Newfoundland and Labrador Published by Parks Canada under authority of the Hon. J. Hugh Faulkner, Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, 1977 QS-7051-000-EE-A1

Les relevés de la série «Les rivières sauvages» sont également publiés en français.

Canada Canada metric métrique

Metric Commission Canada has granted use of the National Symbol for Metric Conversion. Wild Rivers: Newfoundland and Labrador

Wild Rivers Survey Parks Canada ARC Branch Planning Division Ottawa, 1977 2

Main River, rapids at Site 4 3

It is difficult to find in life any event which so effectually condenses intense nervous sensation into the shortest possible space of time as does the work of shooting, or running an im­ mense rapid. There is no toil, no heart breaking labour about it, but as much coolness, dexterity, and skill as man can throw into the work of hand, eye and head; knowledge of when to strike and how to do it; knowledge of water and rock, and of the one hundred com­ binations which rock and water can assume — for these two things, rock and water, taken in the abstract, fail as completely to convey any idea of their fierce embracings in the throes of a rapid as the fire burning quietly in a drawing-room fireplace fails to convey the idea of a house wrapped and sheeted in flames.

Sir William Francis Butler (1872) 4

©Minister of Supply and Services Now available in the Wild River Metric symbols used in this book Canada 1977 series: mm — millimetre(s) Available by mail from Printing and Alberta m — metre(s) Publishing, Supply and Services James Bay /Hudson Bay km — kilometre(s) Canada, Ottawa, K1A 0S9, or through Quebec North Shore km/h — kilometres per hour your bookseller. Saskatchewan d - day(s) Yukon Territory °C — degree Celsius Catalogue No.: R62-82/1977-6 ISBN. 0-662-01427-0 Soon to be available: Central British Columbia Price Canada: $1.50 Northwest Mountains Price other countries: $1.80 The Barrenlands Price subject to change without notice. Southwestern Quebec and Eastern Ontario 5 Table of Contents

Foreword 6 5 Goose River 37

Introduction 7 6 Humber River 41 Climate 8 Planning the Trip 9 7 Lloyds and Exploits Rivers 51

Map of Newfoundland 8 Main River 59 and Labrador 10 Further Reading 64 1 Petit Mecantina River 11

2 Ugjoktok River 17

3 Kanairiktok River 25

4 Naskaupi River 31 6 Foreword

Wild rivers are a priceless part of our With the advent of modern technol­ natural heritage. Untouched by the ogy, some of our rivers were harnessed march of man's technological progress, to serve our newfound needs. But these waterways are the arteries of thousands of kilometres of waterways, our land, and one of the main elements and the land they pass through, remain in its growth to nationhood. essentially untouched. Long before Europeans laid eyes on Today, Canadians are gradually them, these rivers served the native rediscovering these fascinating wild peoples as sources of food and means rivers. They are recreating the adven­ of transportation. Later, the rivers were tures of the explorers; struggling over to carry the Europeans on voyages of the same portages as the heavily-bur­ exploration and exploitation throughout dened "coureurs de bois"; running the vast interior of the continent. The rapids which once hurtled "voyageurs" settlers who followed travelled the and their precious cargoes toward the same routes. markets of Montreal; gently floating The waterways were the mainstay of down majestic rivers which once the fur trade; they were the highways carried thousands of anxious pros­ to the gold rushes. They did much to pectors towards the promise of gold. provide the economic nourishment through which Canada grew to its present stature. 7

Introduction

Parks Canada is promoting these The Wild Rivers of Labrador flow cantina, may demand all the expertise challenging voyages of discovery, across the tip of the Mecantina Plateau, and endurance of an experienced river which embrace both the past and the an ancient worn upland. Access is by canoeist. The reward on these rivers is present. float plane only, and on a flight to the unspoiled wilderness. However, a good deal of down-to- headwaters one will note rolling The Newfoundland rivers are noted earth information about the rivers and spruce-covered hills giving way to for a great variety of landscape and their characteristics is needed before string bogs in places. U-shaped valleys rapid change in river dynamics. The anyone attempts to navigate them. It indicative of glaciation and sandbars countryside appears as a moor, with is for this reason that Parks Canada left by fluvial erosion are mixed with rolling rounded mountains and U- decided to carry out surveys of wild occasional and very difficult rapid shaped valleys carved smooth by ice. rivers all across the country. The result areas and canyons. Some of the river Erratics dot the tundra-like vegetation. is this series of booklets, designed to trips, like the Kanairiktok, have been Some of these rivers have vertical provide a practical guide for the called uninspiring. Others, for example drops of up to 500 m, with formidable modern "voyageur". the wild and free-flowing Petit Me­ obstacles and splendid scenery. Ex­ Although "wild" is used to describe perience is a necessity in meeting these rivers not yet harnessed to industry, it is an apt adjective, for many of the rivers should be challenged only by experienced and well-equipped canoeists. 8

Climate

challenges. Narrow, swift channels Labrador Newfoundland alternate with steady sections. While The rivers described herein fall within For these rivers, one can expect typical in some of the more accessible regions the region of the East Coast Marine maritime climate with considerable logging operations have scarred the Climate. The canoe season is July to precipitation and moderate tempera­ slopes and polluted the water, most of September, as ice does not break up in tures. Spring break-up occurs in May. the Newfoundland river trips are true the headwaters until late June. The Data taken from Corner Brook and wilderness experiences. weather is unpredictable, marked Deer Lake weather stations indicate changes in a short period occur fre­ that June is the coolest of the summer quently. August is the warmest month, months with mean daily temperatures with a mean daily maximum and mini­ of 12°C. July is the warmest with a mum of 14°C and 7°C respectively. daily mean of 1 6°C. Rainfall may be The mean rainfall in August is nine expected 13 to 15 days per month, centimetres over 16 days of precipita­ with an accumulation of ninety milli­ tion. In general, climate becomes more metres per month. Local people sug­ moderate at lower elevations. July and gest that, as September is not so cool September have comparable weather as June, the fall is a good time to conditions with slightly lower tempera­ travel. tures than August. Insects, a trouble­ some factor in early summer, disap­ pear in August. 9

Planning the trip

In planning a canoe trip, allow 25 to should be built on rock or sand only In the more isolated regions an 35 km per day paddling. Always allow and extinguished completely. All gar­ emergency survival kit is recom­ extra time and food for such unfore­ bage should be packed out with you. mended. The kit should contain high seen events as being windbound or A sturdy canoe capable of handling energy food rations, waterproofed delayed by rain. well in rapids and equipment for its matches, fish hooks and line and per­ If egress is to be by plane, make repair are essential. Aluminum canoes haps emergency signal flares for sure arrangements are taken care of were used throughout the surveys signalling aircraft. before the trip begins. Be sure to check and proved very practical. Firearms are never necessary. out with some responsible agency (the Since lining and hauling are often The National Topographic Series of RCMP or the Department of Natural necessary, several pairs of running maps are available from: Resources) stating your route and ex­ shoes or other sturdy footwear that can Canada Map Office, pected time of arrival. Do not forget to take the abuse of rocks and constant Room 147, check in with them at the end of the wetness are needed. 615 Booth Street, trip. OTTAWA, Ontario K1A0E9 Permits for fires and fishing may be required. Extreme caution should be exercised in the use of fire. Campfires 10 11

1 Petit Mecantina River 12

Petit Mecantina River Maps required About the river

An Aerial Reconnaissance Report (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) The main stem of the Petit Mecantina 13 D Lac Brule River originates in southwestern Lab­ 13 C Minipi Lake rador and flows in a southeasterly 12 N Natashquan River direction to the Labrador-Quebec 12 D St. Augustin boundary. From here, the river flows in 12 J Harrington Harbour a predominantly southerly direction, emptying into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The total length of the river system is 392 km and the survey was confined to the river lying between grid points NP 2688/13C and UG 0368/120, a total distance of about 304 km. The river at its source is about 400 m above sea level.

The Mecantina originates in a flat string bog area within a very wide and flat valley. The river flows slowly along a meandering course before entering a series of three rapids at NP 2387/13C. The rapids appear navigable but may require some lining. About 1 5 km further downtream there are two rapid 13

series of two sets each that can be channel is quite wide and deep, with and silt deposits occur on the shore. bypassed with a combination of run­ a large volume of fast-flowing water, Forest fires have burnt the rounded ning, lining and short portages. The where numerous boulders in the chan­ hills that parallel the river. The lake is river valley here is still quite wide and nel could impede lining or running. 22 km long and 2.5 km wide. The offers a view of rounded forested Following the rapid series, the river is southern part of the lake has some ex­ mountains. characterized by a wide channel with cellent campsites on sandy beaches Next is a peaceful, wide section of occasional large islands, and a few sheltered by low rolling hills. A short water occasionally divided by islands. easy rapid sets. The banks slope gently channel connects Lac Fourmont and The flat lands immediately adjoining and are densely forested near the Lac Donquan. This second lake is the river are covered with a scrub water with spruce and alder growth. 10 km in length and has large sand spruce. The quiet water eventually The three sets of rapids located at deposits at the downstream end. yields to 11 sets of rapids (over a PN 8419/13C can be easily run. Little A broad linking channel in a wide flat distance of 10 km). Each rapid set is danger is presented by the boulders valley connects Lac Donquan to Lac divided by a steady section of quiet in this channel, which is deeply cut Le Breton. The channel features many water. Generally, no single set of through bedrock. The surrounding sand and silt deposits and is easy to rapids presents any real difficulty. Each lands provide good campsites on sandy canoe. Spruce forests predominate, set is passable either by running, points and beaches. Below this section and the beaches of Lac Le Breton, lining or portaging along the rocky the river offers easy paddling to Lac shoreline. Through all sets the river Fourmont, the few minor rapid sections presenting no problem. The river chan­ nel widens to 200 m and large bars 14

6.5 km long and 1.5 km wide, offer the countryside changes to high rolling Rounded hills in the distance and some good camping sites. The lake hills that evidence an old forest fire a forest fire burn become evident fur­ section just described, however, is burn and are partially covered with ther downstream. Generally, the whole rather dull, and canoeing through this shrubs and grasses. This wide, steady river section from Lac Le Breton to area is not a challenge. The elevation section of the river is broken by two the end of this steady section, about of the river at this point is 275 m. sets of wide, navigable rapids 16 km 50 km, offers very easy canoeing. The Immediately below the outlet of downstream at ON 0225/12N. At river's elevation at this point is 250 m. Lac Le Breton is a series 5.5 km long the terminus of these rapids, the river From here on the river becomes pro­ of six sets of rapids, all cutting through widens slightly and flows south to gressively narrower, and the banks bedrock and separated by steady sec­ southwest for a steady 24 km and is higher and steeper. The hillsides are tions of water. The first three sets frequently divided by large islands. densely covered with spruce forests, may be lined, if not run, while the The valley is generally flat with the tops with moss and lichens. Two lower three sets probably require short scrubby spruce growth in patches and sets of rapids are encountered, sepa­ portages over easy terrain. The shore­ more ground cover. rated by a steady section of water. The line of this rapid section consists of river current is very fast, but the chan­ steep high banks and hills rising to nel is almost totally free of boulders 150 m on the left with a more gradual and therefore easily navigable. slope on the right limit. Below the Four kilometres downstream of rapid series the river channel becomes this point the river narrows to 50 m or much wider. A few kilometres down­ less, while the water velocity and stream the river retains its width but turbulence heightens, and the banks rise to 200 m above the water. The topographic chart of St. Augustin, 15

Quebec ( 1:250 000 12-0) indicates a series of eight sets of rapids over a distance of about nine kilometres. Be­ yond this series and up to Cape Mys­ tery (UG 1385/120), a distance of 15.25 km, only one rapid is indicated on the map sheet. This information is misleading, for most of this distance consists of unnavigable white water. The river banks rise 250 to 300 m above the river, creating a deep V-shaped river-cut canyon. In most sections of this canyon the immediate shoreline consists of very steep and smooth polished bedrock that would be impossible to portage over or use for lining purposes.

Petit Mecantina River 16

The portage required to bypass this The longest portage required to by­ canyon section appears to be equally pass any single rapid set would be impossible. It would be necessary to about one kilometre, while most of the climb 200 to 250 m vertically through sets could be either run or lined. very thick spruce forests. Once on Beyond this rapid series was the ter­ the plateau area of the hills, a walk of mination point of the aerial reconnais­ 19 km over the roughest country imag­ sance. Judging from the topographic inable would be necessary to bypass maps, the remaining 77 km of the river, the white water. until it empties into the Gulf of St. There is a portage route around Lawrence, consists of steady water the 24 km stretch of white water, used with a wide river channel and gradu­ in the past by trappers and Indians ally sloping river banks. The steady who lived in the area. Details of the water is broken only twice by water­ portage route are unknown but might falls. be uncovered through research. At Cape Mystery, the river bends sharply and flows in a southwesterly direction. In this steady section of about 11 km the river channel becomes wider and the river banks slope more gradually offering the occasional good campsite. Beyond this steady, eight sets of widely-spaced rapids occur over ten kilometres. 17

2 Ugjoktok River 18

Ugjoktok River Access and egress Maps required

From Grid Réf. N.S. 2942 to Access to the starting point, (Grid (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) Ugjoktok Bay Reference N.S. 2942) is by floatplane, 13 M Mistasin Lake which can be charted at Goose Bay. 13 N Hopedale Length The termination point of this trip is at 9 to 12 d (160 km) the mouth of the Ugjoktok River in 14 portages Ugjoktok Bay. Egress would also be by floatplane. Date of Survey July 28 to August 7, 1972. 19

About the river The canoe trip

Geography Flora From access to first major rapids: The Ugjoktok River begins east of the Spruce generally occupy the steep of (35 km) Labrador - Quebec border. From its the upper river valley increasing in At the access point the valley walls are headwaters in the area around 55° density in a downstream direction. 360 m apart and rise abruptly 200 m 15' N latitude 63° 15' W longitude, the Birch, larch, balsam and poplar willow to flat barren grounds. The rock walls river flows eastward within a deeply are predominant along the banks. support some spruce but are generally incised and sparsely vegetated valley. bare. Alder line the banks and the oc­ The region around the headwaters is Fauna casional sand or gravel bar offers good an almost treeless and nearly perfect Birds sighted were sandpipers, Canada campsites through this first stretch of rock plain, free of all drift save iso­ jays, swallows, loons, gulls and terns. calm water. lated erratics. From these rock plains Lake trout, salmon, arctic char, and The water is clear and affords a view the Ugjoktok passes into an area of brook trout abound in the lakes and of the cobble, boulder and gravel river tree-covered hills and sand plains. Near streams of the region. bid. The river is lined by the steep- the cost is glacially-moulded hill ter­ sided valley walls. Boulders precari­ rain with few striking features de­ ously perched on top of the valley tectable from the river. walls together with the narrow and deep river valley lend an awsome beauty to this stretch. 20

Rapid Reach, Grid Reference Ten point five kilometres from the The second water fall, about three N.S. 7036: start of the rapids, the first falls are metres in height, requires a 90 m As indicated on the topographic maps, encountered. The half kilometre port­ portage over water-sculptured bedrock. the next 22 km of river have a number age on the north shore is easily made After this short portage, some lining of rapids and falls. It took two days to over open bedrock and mosses. The is required around a series of step-like complete this demanding section. falls and adjoining canyon are particu­ drops before entering 1.5 km of navig­ Much more white water was present larly beautiful, with separate chutes able water. This is followed by a one than the 1 6 rapids indicated on the dropping about six metres in total. kilometre-stretch of canyon containing maps. Of the four portages made, two Shortly below the falls, another carry very fast water. The portage on the were over difficult terrain, while the is required around one kilometre of south shore involves a 60 m climb over other two were short and easily man­ canyon. The trail on the right or south the first 0.5 km with the remainder aged. The river is quite narrow in shore leads over rugged and terraced over rough terrain. From this hillside many spots along this section, creating bedrock and through alders, ending one has a fine view over the river for fast and turbulent water. Many of the where a break in the canyon permits a several kilometres upstream. If canoe- rapids encountered for the first 10 km carry down to the water. It is difficult are unnavigable and lining around to manoeuvre out of the back-eddy them often proved difficult. pool here, and care should be taken in the attempt. The remaining short sec­ tion of canyon, however, is smooth and easily navigated. In the next five kilometres some short stretches neces­ sitate lining or hauling. 21

Ugjoktok River, pool below second portage 22

ists embark below the fast water, the End of Rapid Reach to Harp River Harp Lake side trip (25 km) canyon is navigable to its end. In the (35 km) Harp Lake may be reached by a 10 km rapids that follow, considerable ma­ Below the last rapid there is a marked trip up the Harp River. About half of noeuvring will be necessary to avoid a difference in the river's character. A this distance calls for tracking the strong and turbulent current in mid- notable widening of the channel and canoe upriver. The channel is shallow channel. In some cases lining may be steep gravel banks mark the beginning enough to allow crossing to whichever required prior to reaching the last set of 35 km of easily navigated water bank offers the easiest walking. The of rapids in this reach, where a large that extends to the confluence of the scene upon entering Harp Lake makes stream enters from the left. Campsites Ugjoktok and Harp Rivers. With the the hours of tracking worthwhile. Near throughout this stretch are difficult aid of the strong current, this stretch the east end of the lake a rocky peak to locate. can be covered in four hours. Main­ rises 600 m above the level of the lake, taining incredibly clear water, the river 650 m above sea level. A few kilo­ reaches widths approaching 0.5 km. metres down the lake a sandy beach The valley becomes much broader as on the south shore provides a beautiful well, with the banks, although still campsite. The lake is fiord-like, aver­ precipitous, further removed from the aging 1.5 km in width over its 50 km river. Near the beginning of this sec­ length. The return trip down the river tion, a major tributary enters from the took 30 min., compared to 2.5 h to right limit at a sharp left bend in the track up. river. Beyond this point the river flows swiftly for 13 km before encountering an island-studded reach that continues almost to the mouth of the Harp River. 23

Harp River to Shapio River and then run close to the right bank, Shapio River to Ugjoktok Bay (40 km) avoiding the heavy water in mid-chan­ (30 km) Eight kilometres downstream from the nel. This calls for careful manoeuvring Below the confluence of Shapio River, mouth of the Harp River, the Ugjoktok Below this rapid lies 6.5 km of the Ugjoktok again broadens to a flows over a five-metre waterfall. A steady water before another set of width of 0.5 km and then divides into 180 m portage of bedrock island on the rapids occurs, immediately above the two channels, the left emptying into right may be easily made. Immediately mouth of the Shapio River. These Adlatok Bay, the right flowing into below the falls are rapids which may rapids can be run with little difficulty. Ugjoktok Bay. Above this fork, large be lined and portaged on the right. Four sandbars line the river banks. The kilometres downstream, three sets of current is quite slow, flowing at 30 navigable rapids are encountered. The cm/s. Relief is gentle and few striking first and third sets are run through deep geographic features are seen from the water, around boulders and through river. 50 cm standing waves. The middle At the fork, the Ugjoktok River is rapid has a 50 cm shelf and can be run followed in preference to the Adlatok. close to the right bank. Five kilometres People familiar with the region warned of rapids occur downstream. The first that the end of the Adlatok presents a two rapids require lining, while the very difficult portage over rugged ter­ third rapid requires a portage of about rain around a 0.5 km long canyon. a 0.5 km around a chute through a narrowing in the channel. The remain­ ing rapids are first lined along the left 24

Eleven kilometres below the fork on The trip may be terminated here the Ugjoktok River is an eight-metre or at the two buildings located at the waterfall dropping over two distinct river-mouth. steps. Two short portages were re­ Since adverse weather conditions quired to carry around these falls, the along the Labrador coast may restrict first being an 18 m carry over bedrock, flying in the area, it is advisable to and the second a more difficult 180 m carry extra food in case of a delayed carry through spruce and alder thick­ pick-up. ets. Both of these portages were made on the south limit. Ugjoktok Bay lies five kilometres downriver from the waterfall. The falls here are of impressively large volume and divided into many channels around a low rock island. Below the falls it is possible to run an­ other 0.5 km through quiet water be­ fore coming to the final rapids above Ugjoktok Bay. The run is short but difficult and ends with an 18 m portage past a narrow chute. The open water of the bay is 1.5 km below this rapid. 25

3 Kanairiktok River 26

Kanairiktok River Access and egress Maps required

An Aerial Reconnaissance Report Access to the headwaters of the Ka­ (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) nairiktok River is restricted to light 13 L Kasheshibaw Lake float-equipped aircraft as there are no 13 K Snegamook Lake roads leading to or running parallel 13 N Hopedale to the river. A convenient starting point would be Shipiskan Lake, although the river further upstream could possi­ bly accommodate the landing of light aircraft. Egress would necessarily be by float- equipped aircraft and could take place in the river itself or in Kanairiktok Bay. The village of Hopedale is situ­ ated 72 km northeast from the river mouth; Goose Bay is 272 km south of this point. 27

About the river

The Kanairiktok river lies in northern Shipiskan Lake is oval, 1 5 km long reach, and the river channel at times is Labrador. From its headwaters near the and 2.5 to 4 km wide. The shoreline is divided by large wooded islands and Quebec border in Ethyl and Morris regular and composed of rocks and sand bars. Travel between Shipiskan Lakes, the river flows for 296 km, emp­ gravel. The right limit is totally burnt Lake and Snegamook Lake may be mo­ tying into Kanairiktok Bay. The total whereas the left limit is densely cov­ notonous, and head winds may pose drop in elevation of the surveyed river ered with mature black spruce. At the a problem to navigation since the low is 172 m with an average gradient of outlet of the lake the river is wide and relief affords no protection. 1.5 m/km. The survey began 42 km deep, and has a noticeable current. Snegamook Lake is 22 km long, 1.5 above Shipiskan Lake. At this point the From Shipiskan Lake to Snegamook to 10 km wide, irregularly sloped and river flows within a well-defined deep Lake is 61 km. The river meanders sporadically dotted with large islands. and unobstructed channel. The shore­ throughout this stretch with a very slow Low, rolling, spruce-covered hills gir­ line consists of rounded rocks and current past large silt and sand de­ dle the lake. the river banks are gently sloping and posits along its banks. The river width Six point five kilometres below covered by dense spruce growth to varies from 200 m to three kilometres. Snegamook Lake, the Kanairiktok is the water's limit. There are no rapids or falls in this divided by a rock island terminating The river valley is U-shaped and in a small waterfall. A short and easy ranges from 0.4 to 0.5 km in width. portage over exposed bedrock would The adjoining lands as viewed from be required to by-pass this obstacle. the air are characterized by numerous Following the fall, the river extends to lakes, string bog areas, and spruce forests. Ground cover seems to be moss and lichen, interrupted by rock outcrops. 28

Kanairiktok River 29

about 250 m wide and then narrows metres. The rapids are all very wide This smooth section ends in a wide to 120 m as the first rapid is encount­ and can be either canoed or lined with waterfall that drops three to four ered. Running the rapid may be pos­ little difficulty. The river then runs in metres. A portage of approximately sible, but if a portage is necessary, it a northeasterly direction for about 0.5 km would be required over the would be over exposed bedrock on 22 km. The channel is very wide and open bedrock of the right shore. About either shore. Eight kilometres below the river valley seems to have no 6.5 km downstream from the falls, a the rapids another waterfall is encount­ boundary, creating a somewhat mono­ major set of rapids is divided by an ered and immediately below is a set tonous and uninspiring atmosphere. island. It would be necessary to por­ of rapids that appears to be quite Ground cover consists primarily of tage around this set over very rugged navigable. moss, scrub spruce and shrubs, and in terrain and through dense spruce Following the falls and rapids there the distance, well-defined river ter­ growth for a distance of 0.5 km. Be­ is a section of 13 km of smooth water. races can be seen. A minor rapid, yond the rapids, the river channel is Along this section, high and steep which could be bypassed with relative still quite wide, the valley very flat and fluvial cut banks are quite scenic. The ease is featured. broad, and the adjoining lands sce- valley is very flat and wide with roll­ nically unimpressive. ing, forested hills in the distance. This Some eight kilometres downstream, section of river appears very easy to the river sharply cuts to the right, en­ canoe. counters a ledge, and drops three The latter section leads to a series of four rapids, all divided by steady sections of smooth water. The total length of this unit is about four kilo­ 30

metres. By-passing these falls presents no problem, and the small set of rap­ ids below the falls can be navigated. In the next 17 km approaching the coast, the river channel is still very wide and the surrounding environs un­ exciting. Three sets of rapids are situ­ ated here and could be run or lined with ease. Just before the river enters Kanairiktok Bay, two rugged water­ falls are present. The second falls could be by-passed with relative ease. This brings the traveller to the mouth of the river and to the entrance into Kanairiktok Bay. The view of the sur­ rounding rugged scenery is most im­ pressive. Floatplanes can land here to carry travellers to Hopedale or Goose Bay. 31

4 Naskaupi River 32

Naskaupi River Maps required About the river

An Aerial Reconnaissance (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) The Naskaupi River originates in the 13 L Kasheshibaw Lake interior of the Labrador Plateau and 13 K Snegamook Lake flows in a general easterly direction to 13 F Goose Bay empty into Grand Lake in Hamilton Inlet. At one time the river drained Lake Michikamau and surrounding lakes. However, due to the construction of Orma Lake Dyke and the creation of the Smallwood Reservoir in 1971, water flow in the upper Naskaupi was re­ duced by 90% to a point 35 km down­ stream of the dyke. The reservoir was created to ensure a minimum volume of water for the new Churchill Falls power develop­ ment. Even though guarantees were issued to maintain a constant flow of 4 050 cm3/s at the mouth of the Naskaupi from June through Septem­ ber, and to re-create salmon spawn­ ing grounds, the river has lost all semblance of its original character. 33

From the aerial reconnaissance, it Orma Lake to Caribou Lake gorge topography, varying from 3 to appeared that the upper portion of The creation of the Smallwood Reser­ 12m wide and 6 to 15 m deep. The the river could be hiked by backpackers voir has diverted the Naskaupi head­ canyon-like terrain terminates below to a point along the river where the waters toward the Churchill Falls Maid Marion Falls as the river mean­ water level is sufficient for canoe Power Project. Orma Lake, the up­ ders through a flat valley, between the travel. Orma Lake Dyke can be reached stream starting point for a trip down scenic Rainbow Hills and Twin Bluffs, by a treacherous gravel road that con­ the Naskaupi, may be reached by the to Caribou Lake. Mud and sand flats nects Goose Bay to the Churchill Falls recently completed gravel road or are extensive in this reach of the river dam. A four-wheel drive vehicle is by floatplane. From the Orma Lake valley. best for travelling this road. Dyke to Isabella Falls (Kasheshibaw Lake map sheet), the river bed could easily be followed. Isabella Falls at the end of July is a mere trickle. Between Isabella Falls and Maid Marion Falls, the relatively wide open river valley changes in character to 34

Naskaupi River 35

Caribou Lake to Naskaupi Lake Naskaupi Lake to North West River The river downstream of Mt. Sawyer There are rapids 16 km below Caribou Settlement appears navigable, although seasonal Lake which low water levels render Below Naskaupi Lake the first serious water levels may determine the diffi­ unnavigable. The scenery changes very white water is encountered as the river culty of river travel through this little to Wuchusk Lake, except that runs a course through a boulder-strewn section. vegetation is slowly beginning to take river bed. Below the mouth of the Red Wine a stand on the mud flats. Wuchusk Short portages and lining may be River the Naskaupi widens consid­ Lake is a landing site for float-equipped necessary to bypass some of the rapid erably. Forest cover on the steep banks aircraft. sections. Walking is difficult in the of Grand Lake is predominantly spruce In the vicinity of "The Narrows", immediate vicinity of the river, how­ and birch trees. At times burned over lakes, islands, inlets, and gently rolling ever, a few hundred metres back of areas and scars left from past logging hills characterize the region; forest fire the river, the growth thins out to a operations are noticeable. damage is evident along the south lichen-covered landscape as dense North West River Settlement, at the shore of Seal Lake. Judging from water black spruce backs a cobbled shoreline eastern extremity of Grand Lake, is marks along the shoreline of Seal through this V-shaped valley. the terminating point for a trip on the Lake, water levels at the time of recon­ Below North Rapids are interesting Naskaupi River. A road connects the naissance seemed to be approximately rock formations and gorges. Three settlement to Goose Bay. three metres below normal. more rapids occur before Mt. Sawyer, and water levels and canoeing experi­ ence would determine whether or not the rapids should be run. 36

It is obvious that the Naskaupi River is not completely navigable from its headwaters to Grand Lake. A suitable landing spot must be found for float aircraft, and at the same time the exist­ ing river conditions could be surveyed. Inclement weather and high winds would be a hazard to any attempt to cross Goose Bay from North West River Settlement; thus a trip should be terminated at North West River. 37

5 Goose River 38

Goose River Access and egress Maps required

An Aerial Reconnaissance Floatplanes may be rented at the dock (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) at Goose Bay. Regularly scheduled 13 E Winokapau Lake Date of Survey aircraft fly in and out of this point. The 13 F Goose Bay Low water level trip ends at Goose Bay. 39

About the river

The headwaters of the Goose River from the source. Along this reach a result of the water flowing over a are a conglomeration of small lakes of river the landscape is characterized fault scarp. A portage around the falls staggered about the Hamilton Upland, by string bogs and ponds surrounded along the left limit seems feasible. 136 km west of the settlement of by meadows of moss and lichens with Downstream of Little Goose Falls, the Goose Bay. The river flows easterly the occasional patch of spruce and river bends sharply to the right, the through more than 1 60 km of the larch. Downstream the river becomes right limit remaining as a sheer cliff Hamilton and Mecantina Plateaux to calm and quite easy to canoe down to face while the left is gradually sloping. empty into Goose Bay on Lake Goose Falls (grid reference NQ7426). At low water, the canyon below the Melville. Large steadies are flanked by sand­ falls seemed navigable but during high The only means of access is float­ bars which would provide excellent water it would probably be impassa­ plane; no roads or trails penetrate the campsites. Water velocity slows above ble. Scouting below the falls regardless region. The river itself cannot accom­ Goose Falls, which drops 40 m, and of water levels is recommended. The modate floatplanes, but the numerous caution should be exercised when reach of water between Goose Falls lakes in the area provide many possible approaching. and Little Goose Falls is not easy going landing sites. One lake in particular, Little Goose Falls, (grid reference but far from impassable. Lining, haul­ located at grid reference NQ5583, is NQ7921 ), is eight kilometres below ing and portaging may be required large enough to handle the heavily Goose Falls. At low water they resem­ along a shoreline suitable for such loaded aircraft. ble Niagara Falls on a miniature scale, purposes. From the lower falls, Little Goose From the lake at grid reference NQ5583 Falls, to the falls at Grid reference to grid reference NQ6529 rapid con­ NQ8418, the river bed is strewn with ditions necessitate much lining and portaging. There is one waterfall 2.5 km 40

huge boulders causing rapids and shallow. Extensive sand and clay bars chutes, quite often impassable and re­ at low flow require cautious selection quiring lining and portaging. Below of a proper channel. these falls to grid reference PQ2929 Upon entering Goose Bay, a five- the river becomes almost impossible kilometre paddle around Groves Point to canoe. Portages throughout this would terminate at the floatplane section are at least 0.5 km in length. docks. Caution should be exercised For these last 27 km the river has when crossing Goose Bay, for wind been flowing through a V-shaped valley storms can cause heavy seas in a with occasionally vertical walls. The matter of minutes. river suddenly widens and the velocity slows considerably. The valley walls remain high and the depth becomes shallow yet navigable as small islands and deltas dot the channel. Approach­ ing the lower end of the river, the channel begins to meander, the current slows considerably, and turbidity in­ creases. Nearing the coast, the last 16 km of river become very turbid and 41

6 H umber River 42

Humber River Access and egress Maps required

Osmond's Pond to Corner Brook Access to the headwaters of the Hum­ (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) ber River is by floatplane, which may 12 A Red Indian Lake Length be chartered at Deer Lake. The furthest 12 H Sandy Lake 13 to 18 d (180 km) point upstream on the Humber where 18 portages a trip may originate is a lake locally (N.T.S. 1:50 000 scale) Known as Osmond's pond, located at 12 H/12E Gros Morne Date of survey 49° 41 ' N latitude 57° 30' W longi­ 12 H/11W Silver Mountain June 23 to July 4, 1972 tude. Although this trip ends at Corner 12 H/11E Silver Mountain Brook, egress can take place at a 12 H/6W Cormach number of points upstream which are 12 H/6E Cormach indicated in the canoe trip section 12 H/3W Deer Lake of this report. 12 H/4E Pasadena 12 A/13W Corner Brook 12 A/13E Corner Brook 43

About the river The canoe trip

Geography of the river bank, adding difficulty to The upper 25 km of the Humber ac­ Located in western Newfoundland, the lining or portaging. Further down cessible by aircraft only, bears little headwaters of this river originate in pitcher plant, kalmia, crackerberry, and trace of man's influence, and canoeing the Long Range Mountains and flow rhododendron, lend colour and diversity this section is a superb wilderness southeast down its slopes. Upon reach­ to the vegetation. experience. However, the section is ing Birchy Basin the river veers and physically demanding. Water con­ flows in a southwest direction parallel Fauna ditions are generally severe and possi­ to the range, eventually emptying into Animal species indigenous to the area bly up to half of the 25 km section Humber's Arm at Corner Brook. are caribou, moose, red fox, beaver will require lining or portaging. From Over the 180 km the river drops and black bear. Bird watchers will spot Birchy Basin to Deer Lake, a more 500 m, most of the drop occurring in Canada jays, sparrows, robins, swal­ travelled section, only two short por­ the 53 km from the headwater lakes to lows, Canada geese, loons, ducks and tages, around Big Falls and Little Falls, Birchy Basin. kingfishers. will be encountered. A few severe rapids present some challenge in the Flora generally smooth flowing river. Canoe­ The dominant vegetation in the Humber ists attempting this section should Valley is spruce and white birch. Away have a good deal of experience with from the river valley in the upper wa- white water canoeing. tershead area, open barren lands are a beautiful contrast to dense growth along the river. Thick alders line much 44

The second section along the river Osmond's Pond to Burnt Hill Pond Osmond Pond East is a narrow water loses something in aesthetics. Most of Osmond's Pond (49° 41' N latitude, body indented with points, bays and the left limit of the river has under­ 57° 30' W longitude) is the furthest small islands. Vegetation becomes gone tree harvesting, and the slash point upstream with enough water in more lush and is characterized by taller from unrestricted cutting not only the channels to allow canoeing. The trees and less barren land. This lake detracts from the scene but also poses first stretch of river below Osmond's empties into a difficult section of river some walking difficulty when portages Pond has a narrow, swift, and steep which for the first kilometre requires are required. channel. One point two five kilometres lining with brief carries past very diffi­ Deer Lake is a long tedious paddle of short ripples soon become heavy cult water. After this is a one-kilometre if conditions are bad. The town of rapids, making the channel impassable. portage on the right around a stretch Deer Lake may be considered a point of The boulder-strewn bed throughout of unnavigable water flowing over a egress or a stop-over. The Newfound­ most of the length aids in lining the series of steps and past a steep shore­ land Air Transport Base is located on rapids. Water levels were high at the line. The best route through the broken Deer Lake. The scenic, steep valley time of the survey due to a late spring. spruce and tundra vegetation should from Deer Lake to Corner Brook is the Generally, at this time of year, water be scouted. most impressive relief experienced on levels would be considerably lower. Below the portage, there is a short the trip. This section of river is navi­ stretch of steady water which abruptly gable for novice canoeists, with one terminates at an island in a sharp right short stretch of rapids at Shelborn bend of the river. One channel leads Island. to a three-metre waterfall while the 45

other ends in a stretch of turbulent right shore, there is a hunting camp Portaging around the falls brings the water. After portaging 0.5 km on the which is left open to those who might traveller to the head of another small left limit it is possible to run and need temporary shelter. Below Angus pond. Again, below a couple of these line the remaining short stretch before Lake a short stretch of river required ponds are sections of lineable and coming to the mouth of a canyon. The two portages to the first of a series possibly navigable rapids. best portage around the canyon was of small lakes. These are strikingly Approaching the large lake above found by walking perpendicular to the attractive with small spruce covered Burnt Hill Pond the many islands river for about 180 m and heading islands, open meadow shoreline and appear as a maze, with many cross cur­ downriver over stunted spruce and snow patches still remaining on the rents and back eddies confusing the open marshland. This difficult 2.5 km high flanking hills. Short sections of easiest route. The outlet of this lake on section may be lined — and canoed river or narrows between these the east shore is through a one-kilo­ in a few sections — down to Angus lakes all have a notable drop in eleva­ metre rapid which may require lining, Lake. tion and canoeing is tricky and in some and one short portage to Burnt Hill Angus Lake, the largest of the lake cases impossible. Pond. series, offers few campsites. Two Leaving the fourth small steady, a thirds of the way down the lake on the one-kilometre section of river must be lined down to a two-metre falls. Lining is best done on the right bank as the left has a much denser alder growth near the water's edge. 46

Burnt Hill Pond is essentially the Burnt Hill Pond to Birchy Basin of the canyon that extends throughout last of the lake series with one more The Upper Humber below Burnt Hill this section. A fish ladder allows sal­ small steady just below it. Pond is 23 km of rough water emptying mon to by-pass the seven-metre water­ The small pond below Burnt Hill into the quiet waters of Birchy Basin. fall. For the canoeist, however, the Pond marks the end of the chain of An irregular gradient of 16 m/km way is not as easy; a rigorous portage lakes and the beginning of logging along this reach is a good indication through dense alder and balsam fir operations. Logging roads make the of water conditions and canoeing must be made on the left limit. river accessible at many points. difficulty. A portage along the bank in the The series of lakes, interspersed by Five hundred metres below Burnt Hill canyon is nearly impossible as the short reaches of river, is the high point Pond is a stretch of unnavigable white banks are extremely steep, rising as of the Humber River trip. water. An 11 km portage follows a high as 100 m above the water level logging road on the left limit, and ends and bearing thick vegetation. Tree below an island in the river channel. harvesting operations in the last ten Below the island the river is either years have left considerable slash navigable or lineable around the more on the forest floor which makes hazardous rapids as far as Main Falls walking difficult. (57° 08'W;49° 35' N). The river at this point is 80 m wide and quite shal­ low, flowing swiftly over a bed of rounded boulders. Main Falls is located about 1.5 km above the entrance to Birchy Basin and marks the beginning 47

Humber River, pulp road on portage 48

During medium and low water levels Several inhabited buildings are Two more rapids above Big Falls a narrow boulder field is exposed on clustered around Birchy Dam, which is are navigable but should be scouted, as the left bank which may permit lining accessible by secondary road and may large standing waves and rugged rock of the canyon. Birchy Basin starts be considered as an egress or access may be hazardous. Big Falls should abruptly below the mouth of the can­ point for canoeists. A phone is located be approached by very careful lining yon, where the final rapids are navi­ at the dam site. along the left limit to the edge of gable into the quiet pool below. The first set of rapids above Big the falls. This section required almost four Falls appears after 23 km of steady Big Falls is the site of Sir Richard days or 20 h of rigorous travel. paddling through easy water. These Squires Memorial Park and campsite. rapids are easily run, but are soon Highway 2 provides access to the Birchy Basin to Deer Lake followed by Bear Reef. Here, as the park. Passage past the Falls involves Flattening out markedly below the name suggests, a rock reef or shelf a 15 m walk. canyon, the Basin presents a striking extends well into the river and the Below Big Falls, one runnable rapid and pleasant change. A series of water flowing swiftly over it poses a is encountered 1.5 km downstream shallow ripples marks the beginning danger. Lining is necessary to by-pass and another 6.5 km further on, at Little of a slow and deep channel flowing this rapid. Falls. Highway 2 crosses the river im­ into Birchy Lake. mediately above Little Falls. A trail From this point on, the river is 15m upstream from the bridge pro­ posted as a scheduled river for salmon vides a portage route past the falls. fishing, only licensed fly fishing is permitted. 49

Another six-kilometre stretch of are easily navigated while the fourth National Railway. At the end of the easy water brings the canoeist to the and the fifth should be scouted prior lake there will likely be pulp booms, first of a series of shallow rapids that to running. The channel in the last two requiring a portage of approximately extend down to Harriman's Steady. rapids is narrow, with a steep gradient 1.5 km in length. The easiest route These rapids are difficult to ap­ and boulder strewn course. is along the left limit, over roads or the proach as bedrock shelves extend Eleven kilometres below the rapids railway line. across the river. Even at medium water is Deer Lake, where egress may take The trip from Boom Siding to Corner levels it is necessary to walk over place at the community of Deer Lake. Brook is 19 km of easy water with a many shallow stretches less than 35 small rapid around Shelbron Island. cm deep. Deer Lake to Corner Brook Cottages line much of the right limit of Low gravel shorelines in this section Headwinds on Deer Lake may be strong the river. It is in this stretch that the provide good campsites. Strong winds enough to keep canoeists landlocked. terrain is perhaps more awe inspiring may at times offer stiff resistance to With favourable conditions, however, than anywhere else throughout the paddling this wide stretch of river. four hours of paddling will cover the trip: Near Corner Brook the banks One point five kilometres below 19 km lake to Boom Siding. The shore­ tower 300 m above the water level. Harriman's Steady is the last series of lines of the lake are strewn with pulp rapids. The first three of the five rapids logs, but they present no problems to finding a good campsite. The eastern shore of the lake is closely followed by both the Trans- Canada Highway and the Canadian 50

From the river mouth, a short run along Humber Arm Inlet brings a canoe party to a convenient egress point above the pulp booms. Earlier egress may be taken eight kilometres up­ stream at Steady Brook. 51

7 Lloyds and Exploit River 52

Lloyds and Exploit River Access and egress Maps required

King George IV Lake to Grand Falls Access to this area is limited to float­ (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) plane. King George IV Lake is 80 km 12 A Red Indian Lake Length south of Corner Brook, Newfoundland's 2 D Gander Lake 10 to 15 d (198 km) second largest city, and 90 air km 11 portages from a floatplane base at Pasadena on Deer Lake. A one-hour flight can in­ Date of survey clude reconnaissance of the difficult June 1972 sections of the Lloyds River. The trip terminates at Grand Falls where road, rail and scheduled air services are available. 53

About the river

The Exploits River system is the larg­ The effect of recent logging is notice­ Lloyds, and deciduous species such as est, and perhaps the most important in able in the last few kilometres of the alder and poplar common along Red Newfoundland. The two main branches Lloyds River Valley. The Exploits River Indian Lake and the Exploits River. of the Exploits, the Lloyds and Vic­ begins at the outlet of Red Indian Lake, Eastern white pine and larch occur oc­ toria Rivers, head in the highlands of where a dam, built in 1927, regulates casionally in the middle section of the southwest corner of Newfoundland. its flow. The Exploits Valley is very the trip. Wildflowers include the pitcher In contrast to the Victoria River, flat and the river is wide and shallow plant, sundew, rhodora, and kalmia. which has been seriously altered by the for most of the distance from Red Of these, only the first two species construction of the Victoria Lake Dam, Indian Lake to Grand Falls. Rapids are were noticeable in early June. the Lloyds River flows through un­ infrequent and the gradient is gentle. spoiled wilderness for most of its Fauna length. The headwaters lie within 50 km Flora Common wildlife species include cari­ of Newfoundland's west coast, in an Vegetation along the Lloyds-Exploits bou, moose (an introduced species in area of low relief with barren grounds system is predominately a black Newfoundland), black bear, beaver, dotted by small lakes and streams. spruce-white birch association, with Canada geese, and several species of The Annieopsquotch Mountains frequent bog areas along the Upper ducks. An osprey was observed on the parallel the river for about 16 km of Upper Lloyds River, and seagulls and this stretch, rising steeply as much as the occasional tern appeared along the 400 m above the river valley. From route. Lloyds Lake to the mouth of the river in Red Indian Lake, the Lloyds flows through a narrow steep-sided valley. 54

The canoe trip

The Lloyds River offers good fishing The first part of the system, from King At the outlet, the Lloyds River is in particular for ouananiche — a land­ George IV Lake to Lloyds Lake, is about 60 m wide with a fast current, locked salmon - and brook trout. recommended for experts only. They running over cobbles and boulders Grand Falls has blocked the ascent should expect to run rapids frequently. between low, densely forested banks. of Atlantic salmon in the Exploits The rest of the trip could be under­ Minor rapids begin within 90 m of River, but the Canada Fisheries taken by any canoeists possessing the the outlet, but are navigable for the first Service is constructing fishways basic skills required for wilderness 1.5 km then set of in this stretch and which will give salmon access to the canoe travel. there are no good campsites for the upper portions of the system. next few kilometres. Above the right King George IV Lake to Lloyds Lake bank lies a large interesting bog area. The oulet of King George IV Lake (lati­ The next 6.5 km stretch has several tude 48° 13' N, longitude 57° 53' W) rapids which may require lining. There was chosen as a convenient starting follows a 1.5 km steady with camp­ point for the reconnaissance trip, since sites. Canada geese and a loon were the lake is 10 km2, large enough to observed in the quiet water. allow floatplane landings. It lies amidst The steady ends in minor rapids countryside of rather low relief at an followed by a 2.5 m waterfall, (marked elevation of 350 m above sea level. as a rapid on the map), which requires The shores are rocky and irregular and are forested with black spruce, scrub­ by bushes and bogs. There are a few possible campsites near the outlet. 55

a short portage. Below the chute is a tains suddenly appear to the east. last obstacle before Lloyds Lake, where 180 m canyon which can be run with While the highest peak is only 690 m the mountains tower above the right caution. above sea level, the rise from the river bank. Eastern white pine appear for From here, a brief stretch of easy valley, frequently approaching 400 m the first time on the route. Toward the water precedes an extremely challeng­ is very impressive. The mountains are end of the rapids are excellent camp­ ing series of rapids with steep rock treeless, and the dark brown and sites on flat, grassy banks. From the walls which make lining difficult. One grey colours of the rock contrast vividly end of the rapids to Lloyds Lake, the point requires a portage of about 45 m with occasional snow patches and river is swift and shallow, with no over a hump in the rock wall. light green meadows. These mountains difficult water. One point five kilo­ Less than 1.5 km below the falls, a are a favourite spot for caribou. metres above the lake, the river forms 1.25 km portage was required to Although no rapids are indicated a delta of attractive islands with by-pass a difficult stretch of canyon. A on the map the next few kilometres re­ grassy meadows and birch trees. This convenient route was found through quire some lining, as a combination is a nesting area for ducks and Canada scrub forest and bogs several hundred of frequent boulders and fast shallow geese and is excellent moose habitat. metres back from the right bank. The water made it totally impossible to Near the lake, the river channels portage ends on a beautiful stretch canoe. The river averages about 60 m deepen somewhat and offer fishing of river, across from the mouth of a in width in this section. A six-kilometre opportunities. The combination of stream which enters on the left bank by continuous series of rapids poses the islands, braided river channel, steep a one-metre falls. An island in mid- mountains, and the open expanse of river makes a delightful campsite. Lloyds Lake makes this stretch a The first stretch below the island is particularly attractive one. easy paddling, with abundant camp­ sites on low grassy banks. About 5.5 km down, the Annieopsquotch Moun­ 56

Lloyds Lake to Red Indian Lake Eleven kilometres further, an eight- back to civilization, for a logging camp The stretch from Lloyds Lake to Red metre waterfall flows at the mouth of on the left bank and a boom across the Indian Lake is relaxing by contrast. Otter Brook, on the left bank. From lake obstruct the view. Lloyds Lake, 122 m above sea level, is here on, the valley gradually broadens This is the first possible point of about 11 km long and ranges from and the river banks become more egress, as the logging camp is reached 1 to 1.5 km wide. The Annieopsquotch suitable for camping. A rapid indicated by a dirt road from Buchans. However, Mountains continue halfway down the on the map just below Otter Creek does use of the road may require permission south side of the lake, and the shores not exist. The river widens in this from the owners, Price Newfoundland are generally very steep and densely stretch to about 90 m, and is shallow Ltd., of Grand Falls. The logging camp forested. and quite fast. is a temporary installation, but it may The 6.5 km stretch of the Lloyds The litter of an abandoned pros­ prove helpful in emergencies. River immediately below the lake pector's camp about 10 km above Red includes a few minor rapids which are Indian Lake heralds the approach of Red Indian Lake navigable. From here on, the going is civilization, and 1.5 km further on, the Red Indian Lake, 1 50 m above sea level, easy all the way to Red Indian Lake. first signs of logging operations are is the second largest lake in Newfound­ The valley sides are rather steep, but evident. land, with a total length of 59 km and the mountains are not very high. River In the last 1.5 km before Red Indian a width ranging from 1.5 to 6.5 km. width is about fifty metres. Lake, the Lloyds River deepens con­ The prevailing southwest winds can siderably, cutting through steep produce dangerous water conditions. wooded banks and interesting rock This hazard is compounded by the faces. This stretch has remained un­ disturbed except for a few old cabins, and the logging operations upstream can be temporarily forgotten. Arrival at the mouth of the river brings one 57

difficulty of getting off the water when The trip down Red Indian Lake ends quite broad. Forest cover is dense, necessary. The shorelines are very at Exploits Dam, constructed by the consisting mainly of spruce and birch, densely wooded and occasional gravel Anglo-Newfoundland Development with some larch and alder. beaches are totally clogged with pulp Company in 1927 as a flow control Starting from Exploits Dam, the first wood. Stopping is extremely difficult structure for log driving. The best few kilometres of river have fast but and camping virtually impossible. At camping area in the vicinity is a easy water, with low banks showing low water, there might be occasional meadow just east of the dam control considerable logging disturbance. gravel bars. Topography of the sur­ office on the left bank, however the About eight kilometres below the dam, rounding region is generally flat, and permission of the dam keeper should a series of rapids requires short the paddle down the lake can be te­ be obtained for camping. Bark particles stretches of lining which are com­ dious. Shoreline vegetation is basically are evident in the water around the plicated by log jams on the shoreline. spruce, birch and alder, with occa­ dam, but it is potable. A long smooth stretch follows, in which sional larch trees. A collection boom the river averages 60 m in width. Oc­ just beyond the mouth of Lloyds River Exploits River from Red Indian casional logging roads end at dumping blocks the route down the lake and Lake to Grand Falls sites on the river. The confluence of necessitates a portage through dense Bark fragments and pulp logs along the Noel Paul's Brook offers one of the few bush. Both shores seem equally un­ banks seriously diminish the attractive­ landmarks in this rather dull stretch. attractive, but a shorter if unpleasant ness of this portion of the river and The forest along the banks is dense route was found on the right. From scenery along the Exploits is for the and campsites are infrequent. here, there is little to break the mono­ most part unspectacular. The sur­ Thirty kilometres below Exploits tony of the lake trip. Six point five rounding hills are low and the valley Dam is a series of rapids which ends kilometres west of the outlet of the in a spectacular cascade (not indicated lake, the Victoria River enters by a falls. 58

on map) known as Red Indian Rattle. tage on the left over bedrock to avoid three kilometres above Grand Falls is These rapids should be approached an impassable chute. Some lining, an impassable step in the river (in­ with caution, as the falls are not ob­ again complicated by log jams on the dicated as a rapid on map). This should vious from a distance. The first rapid banks, may be necessary above the be approached with caution, as the can be run with care, but the Rattle chute. pool above is deceptively serene. Log itself is impassable and requires a From this point on, the river broad­ jams make lining or portaging difficult portage of about 90 m over exposed ens and the current is fast but easy. and dangerous, and since a dirt road bedrock. A convenient approach and There are extensive areas of shoals, from Grand Falls reaches the left bank portage can be made on the right side. which are indicated on the map. From of the river at this point, it is a con­ The total drop of the falls is about a point 19 km below Exploits Dam to venient place to finish the trip. The six metres involving a series of steps Grand Falls, the river is paralleled by road runs about four kilometres to the with a length of about 180 m and a Highway 50 and later the Trans- Trans-Canada Highway on the outskirts width of 54 m. The Rattle ends in a Canada Highway. of the town, touching the river at long pool about 0.5 km across. Six point five kilometres above several points. The 16 km stretch from Red Indian Grand Falls, a log boom blocks the Three kilometres further down is Rattle to the town of Badger, where river, but it may be possible to find a another fall of about one metre. A Highway 50 joins the Trans-Canada, is passage between piles. Below the portage would be required to by-pass easy shallow water with a strong cur­ boom, the river bottom is heavily it, and the trip would then end in the rent. The forest is dense and without littered with submerged logs. About pool of the Price Newfoundland mill. good campsites. It is recommended that a canoe trip The first two sets of rapids indicated be terminated at the step three kilo­ on the map below Badger are navi­ metres above Grand Falls. gable, but the series about 6.5 km below the town requires a 30 m por­ 59

8 Main River 60

Main River Access and egress Maps required

Four Ponds to Sop's Arm Access to the headwaters of the Main (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) River is limited to floatplane, which 12 H Sandy Lake Length can be chartered at Deer Lake, 77 km 12 H/14 W Main River 5 to 8 d (50 km) due south of Four Ponds Lake. The 12 H/14E Main River 4 portages best landing site is on the lake locally 12 H/11 E Silver Mountain, White Bay known as Four Ponds, located at South District Date of survey 57° 20' W longitude and 49° 54' N 12 H/15W Jackson's Arm White Bay July 12 to 17, 1972 latitude. A stream less than three kilo­ South District metres long, empties this series of lakes into the Main River. The trip terminates at the community of Sop's Arm near the mouth of the Main River. 61

About the trip

Geography violets and pitcher plant. The mountain Fauna In the 50 km of this river trip, the Main tops are treeless and are covered pri­ Moose can be seen browsing near the drops from an elevation of 400 m to marily with moss and lichen. Along the river and although caribou were not sea level at a rate of 65 m/km. Fre­ lower slopes grow mature stands of sighted during reconnaissance, they quent and long rapids will be en­ black spruce and, in lesser numbers, are common to the area. Speckled- or countered, so persons canoeing this birch and larch. Alder and willow are brook-trout inhabit the clear cold lakes river should be familiar with white common along the river and in the low- and rivers. Atlantic salmon also make water techniques. lying areas. their annual migration from the sea to A feature of this trip is the diversity spawn in the headwaters of the Main of river and channel characteristics River. The surrounding lakes and calm and of landforms. Open meadows, sections of the river are prime nesting marshlands, lakes, swift rivers and grounds for Canada geese and various rounded barren hills together create an other waterfowl. enjoyable wilderness experience.

Flora A variety of plants and flowers grow in open grass meadows. They include rhodora, crackerberry, purple iris, 62

The canoe trip

The Main River is situated in the south­ canoed. Upon entering the Main river, row sections of fast-moving water that ern portion of the Great Northern Pen- however, river travel becomes labo­ may require some lining and hauling. ninsula of Newfoundland. From its rious. Upstream from the confluence, Eight kilometres below the con­ headwaters on the east slope of the the Main River is congested with sub­ fluence of the Main and Four Ponds, Long Range Mountains the river flows merged rocks and boulders and ap­ the river and valley broaden consider­ east, emptying into Sop's Arm of White pears impossible to canoe at medium ably. From the lake outlet to this point, Bay. The actual divide is far from water level. Downstream, large boul­ the river has dropped 80 m in less than mountainous as glaciation has rounded ders are numerous and the river chan­ ten kilometres. the peaks and in many cases erratics nel narrows. Lining along the banks is have been left on the barren hilltops. extremely difficult and it becomes nec­ Big Steady The divide does not clearly define essary to walk the canoes for the next In the following 6.5 km the river drops watersheds flowing in opposite direc­ five kilometres. Four sets of rapids less than fifteen metres. This stretch tions from its slopes. Instead, drainage then follow, two of which require short of relatively calm water is known lo­ on the summit is irregular and numer­ portages. Between the rapids are nar­ cally as the Big Steady. It is marked at ous swamp bogs and lakes occupy the beginning by a major tributary of wide U-shaped valleys. the Main which enters from the right shore. A long narrow rock and cobble The upper river peninsula separates the two rivers until River travel begins at the outlet of the they join about 0.5 km downstream. east lake, which is drained by a stream The river channel then becomes wide three kilometres long that is easily and shallow and some hauling of the canoe over rock and cobble bars may be necessary. Cobble and rock islands along this reach provide excellent camping sites. 63

Rapid River Unit Deep Valley Unit creases slightly to 1 5 m/km as the In the 10 km following the Big Steady In the final 24 km of the river the total river nears the coast, but canoe travel section the river flows within a single drop in elevation is about 210 m with remains difficult. The river for the channel with four kilometres of rapids. a consistent gradient of 19 m/km. most part is incised within a deep and The river gradient along this stretch is Fast water combined with large boul­ thickly vegetated V-shaped valley. slightly less than eight metres per ders and a steep gradient make canoe­ There is virtually no valley flat and kilometre. Generally rapids are run- ing difficult and hazardous throughout views are limited to the river and valley nable, but a few require lining or short this section. Scouting of each river sides. Near Sop's Arm the river widens portages, which is simple because bend and rapid is necessary. The drop and a valley flat forms, allowing views there are few boulders in the river and is quite evident and restricts down­ of the rugged coastal mountains. the shoreline is easily walked. This stream visibility both from the canoe The river becomes shallower and at section ends at the junction of a major and from the shore. Standing waves its mouth eventually braids around tributary entering the Main on the left. from 35 cm to one metre in height are islands. The main channel is on the frequently encountered. With caution, extreme left. most of the rapids can be run and un- Spanning the Main River delta is a navigable ones can usually be lined. metal frame bridge. The road leads to One portage of about 90 m is required Sop's Arm Provincial Park on the right; in a particularly severe section. In to the left is the community of Sop's places the river has cut its way into the Arm. bedrock, creating cliff faces and cany­ ons, and exposing interesting geolog­ ical formations. The gradient de­ 64 Further Reading

Goudie, Elizabeth, Woman of Labrador, Tanner, V., Outlines of the Geography, Peter Martin Assoc. Ltd., 1973. Life and Custom of Newfoundland — Labrador, Acta Geographica 8, No. 1. Hubbard, Mrs. L., A Woman's Way Helsinki, 1944. Through Unknown Labrador, New York: The McClure Company, 1908. Wallace, Dillon, The Lure of the Lab­ rador Wild, Flemming-H. Revell Com­ Kenney, G.I., Charting Labrador's pany, New York, 1905. Rivers, North, Vol. XVIII, No. 3, May- June, 1971.

Rouillard, E., La Côte nord du Saint- Laurent et le Labrador canadien, Québec, 1908.

Stainer, J., A Canoe Journey in Cana­ dian Labrador, Geographical Journal, Vol. 92. 1938, p. 153.

Eastern Canada

Areas covered by reports in the Wild Rivers series are outlined on the map. Shaded area is covered by this report.

Now available in the series: Alberta James Bay/Hudson Bay Quebec North Shore Saskatchewan Yukon Territory

Soon to be available: Central British Columbia Northwest Mountains The Barrenlands Southwestern Quebec and Eastern Ontario