Wild Rivers: Newfoundland and Labrador

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Wild Rivers: Newfoundland and Labrador Indian and Affaires indiennes Northern Affairs et du Nord Wild Rivers: Parks Canada Parcs Canada Newfoundland and Labrador Published by Parks Canada under authority of the Hon. J. Hugh Faulkner, Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, 1977 QS-7051-000-EE-A1 Les relevés de la série «Les rivières sauvages» sont également publiés en français. Canada Canada metric métrique Metric Commission Canada has granted use of the National Symbol for Metric Conversion. Wild Rivers: Newfoundland and Labrador Wild Rivers Survey Parks Canada ARC Branch Planning Division Ottawa, 1977 2 Main River, rapids at Site 4 3 It is difficult to find in life any event which so effectually condenses intense nervous sensation into the shortest possible space of time as does the work of shooting, or running an im­ mense rapid. There is no toil, no heart breaking labour about it, but as much coolness, dexterity, and skill as man can throw into the work of hand, eye and head; knowledge of when to strike and how to do it; knowledge of water and rock, and of the one hundred com­ binations which rock and water can assume — for these two things, rock and water, taken in the abstract, fail as completely to convey any idea of their fierce embracings in the throes of a rapid as the fire burning quietly in a drawing-room fireplace fails to convey the idea of a house wrapped and sheeted in flames. Sir William Francis Butler (1872) 4 ©Minister of Supply and Services Now available in the Wild River Metric symbols used in this book Canada 1977 series: mm — millimetre(s) Available by mail from Printing and Alberta m — metre(s) Publishing, Supply and Services James Bay /Hudson Bay km — kilometre(s) Canada, Ottawa, K1A 0S9, or through Quebec North Shore km/h — kilometres per hour your bookseller. Saskatchewan d - day(s) Yukon Territory °C — degree Celsius Catalogue No.: R62-82/1977-6 ISBN. 0-662-01427-0 Soon to be available: Central British Columbia Price Canada: $1.50 Northwest Mountains Price other countries: $1.80 The Barrenlands Price subject to change without notice. Southwestern Quebec and Eastern Ontario 5 Table of Contents Foreword 6 5 Goose River 37 Introduction 7 6 Humber River 41 Climate 8 Planning the Trip 9 7 Lloyds and Exploits Rivers 51 Map of Newfoundland 8 Main River 59 and Labrador 10 Further Reading 64 1 Petit Mecantina River 11 2 Ugjoktok River 17 3 Kanairiktok River 25 4 Naskaupi River 31 6 Foreword Wild rivers are a priceless part of our With the advent of modern technol­ natural heritage. Untouched by the ogy, some of our rivers were harnessed march of man's technological progress, to serve our newfound needs. But these waterways are the arteries of thousands of kilometres of waterways, our land, and one of the main elements and the land they pass through, remain in its growth to nationhood. essentially untouched. Long before Europeans laid eyes on Today, Canadians are gradually them, these rivers served the native rediscovering these fascinating wild peoples as sources of food and means rivers. They are recreating the adven­ of transportation. Later, the rivers were tures of the explorers; struggling over to carry the Europeans on voyages of the same portages as the heavily-bur­ exploration and exploitation throughout dened "coureurs de bois"; running the vast interior of the continent. The rapids which once hurtled "voyageurs" settlers who followed travelled the and their precious cargoes toward the same routes. markets of Montreal; gently floating The waterways were the mainstay of down majestic rivers which once the fur trade; they were the highways carried thousands of anxious pros­ to the gold rushes. They did much to pectors towards the promise of gold. provide the economic nourishment through which Canada grew to its present stature. 7 Introduction Parks Canada is promoting these The Wild Rivers of Labrador flow cantina, may demand all the expertise challenging voyages of discovery, across the tip of the Mecantina Plateau, and endurance of an experienced river which embrace both the past and the an ancient worn upland. Access is by canoeist. The reward on these rivers is present. float plane only, and on a flight to the unspoiled wilderness. However, a good deal of down-to- headwaters one will note rolling The Newfoundland rivers are noted earth information about the rivers and spruce-covered hills giving way to for a great variety of landscape and their characteristics is needed before string bogs in places. U-shaped valleys rapid change in river dynamics. The anyone attempts to navigate them. It indicative of glaciation and sandbars countryside appears as a moor, with is for this reason that Parks Canada left by fluvial erosion are mixed with rolling rounded mountains and U- decided to carry out surveys of wild occasional and very difficult rapid shaped valleys carved smooth by ice. rivers all across the country. The result areas and canyons. Some of the river Erratics dot the tundra-like vegetation. is this series of booklets, designed to trips, like the Kanairiktok, have been Some of these rivers have vertical provide a practical guide for the called uninspiring. Others, for example drops of up to 500 m, with formidable modern "voyageur". the wild and free-flowing Petit Me­ obstacles and splendid scenery. Ex­ Although "wild" is used to describe perience is a necessity in meeting these rivers not yet harnessed to industry, it is an apt adjective, for many of the rivers should be challenged only by experienced and well-equipped canoeists. 8 Climate challenges. Narrow, swift channels Labrador Newfoundland alternate with steady sections. While The rivers described herein fall within For these rivers, one can expect typical in some of the more accessible regions the region of the East Coast Marine maritime climate with considerable logging operations have scarred the Climate. The canoe season is July to precipitation and moderate tempera­ slopes and polluted the water, most of September, as ice does not break up in tures. Spring break-up occurs in May. the Newfoundland river trips are true the headwaters until late June. The Data taken from Corner Brook and wilderness experiences. weather is unpredictable, marked Deer Lake weather stations indicate changes in a short period occur fre­ that June is the coolest of the summer quently. August is the warmest month, months with mean daily temperatures with a mean daily maximum and mini­ of 12°C. July is the warmest with a mum of 14°C and 7°C respectively. daily mean of 1 6°C. Rainfall may be The mean rainfall in August is nine expected 13 to 15 days per month, centimetres over 16 days of precipita­ with an accumulation of ninety milli­ tion. In general, climate becomes more metres per month. Local people sug­ moderate at lower elevations. July and gest that, as September is not so cool September have comparable weather as June, the fall is a good time to conditions with slightly lower tempera­ travel. tures than August. Insects, a trouble­ some factor in early summer, disap­ pear in August. 9 Planning the trip In planning a canoe trip, allow 25 to should be built on rock or sand only In the more isolated regions an 35 km per day paddling. Always allow and extinguished completely. All gar­ emergency survival kit is recom­ extra time and food for such unfore­ bage should be packed out with you. mended. The kit should contain high seen events as being windbound or A sturdy canoe capable of handling energy food rations, waterproofed delayed by rain. well in rapids and equipment for its matches, fish hooks and line and per­ If egress is to be by plane, make repair are essential. Aluminum canoes haps emergency signal flares for sure arrangements are taken care of were used throughout the surveys signalling aircraft. before the trip begins. Be sure to check and proved very practical. Firearms are never necessary. out with some responsible agency (the Since lining and hauling are often The National Topographic Series of RCMP or the Department of Natural necessary, several pairs of running maps are available from: Resources) stating your route and ex­ shoes or other sturdy footwear that can Canada Map Office, pected time of arrival. Do not forget to take the abuse of rocks and constant Room 147, check in with them at the end of the wetness are needed. 615 Booth Street, trip. OTTAWA, Ontario K1A0E9 Permits for fires and fishing may be required. Extreme caution should be exercised in the use of fire. Campfires 10 11 1 Petit Mecantina River 12 Petit Mecantina River Maps required About the river An Aerial Reconnaissance Report (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) The main stem of the Petit Mecantina 13 D Lac Brule River originates in southwestern Lab­ 13 C Minipi Lake rador and flows in a southeasterly 12 N Natashquan River direction to the Labrador-Quebec 12 D St. Augustin boundary. From here, the river flows in 12 J Harrington Harbour a predominantly southerly direction, emptying into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The total length of the river system is 392 km and the survey was confined to the river lying between grid points NP 2688/13C and UG 0368/120, a total distance of about 304 km. The river at its source is about 400 m above sea level. The Mecantina originates in a flat string bog area within a very wide and flat valley. The river flows slowly along a meandering course before entering a series of three rapids at NP 2387/13C. The rapids appear navigable but may require some lining.
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