BACKPACKING & WILDERNESS NAVIGATION Trip Information Guide & Menu Plan Backpacker Information

Keep in Touch Airport Shuttle While this packet will answer many of your questions, we enjoy hearing about your specific interests and look forward to making We recommend Shuttle Express: www.shuttleexpress.com the pre-trip planning an exciting part of the journey. Please read this entire document. Follow Ground Transportation signs to Shuttle Express booth. Shuttles are available on demand from Seattle–Tacoma We encourage you to contact us with any questions as our intent International Airport to downtown Seattle (Mediterranean Inn). is to provide personal attention to your preparation needs. You can also take a taxi. Alpine Ascents Seattle: (206) 378-1927 Day 1 of Hike

Overview Arrive at our Seattle offices at 6:30 a.m. on the first day of your course. Please arrive in your street clothes. We will begin a Start Location: Alpine Ascents International Office. thorough equipment check and orientation at 6:30 a.m., during 109 W. Mercer Street, Seattle, WA which we will go over the required equipment, apparel and food. We will make recommendations for substitutions and additions as Begins: 6:30 a.m., Day 1 of the course. necessary. Afterwards, we will depart for the trail head.

Finishes: Between 6:00 p.m. and 10:00 p.m. on the last day of the Location: Alpine Ascents International Office, Seattle, WA course. Alpine Ascents International provides transportation from (See directions on next page) our offices in Seattle to the trail head. What to bring: Please bring your pack fully packed with all gear listed on the gear list. Rental gear can be picked up at the gear Meeting Times & Transport check. You are responsible to bring all gear on the gear list except your rental gear. If you are unsure if a piece of gear you plan on Getting to Seattle bringing is suitable for the course, please don’t hesitate to contact our offices before your arrival. We happily make recommendations. Flight reservations for your course should be made as soon as possible. Alpine Ascents uses the services of Charles Mulvehill at The location for your course will be determined based on current Scan East West Travel: (800) 727-2157 or (206) 623-2157. He is very conditions. Most courses take place in Olympic National Park in familiar with our domestic and international programs and offers NW Washington. competitive prices on all flights.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Backpacker Information 1 Marqueen Hotel — www.marqueen.com Directions to Alpine Ascents Phone Reservations: (888) 445-3076 Online Reservations: • From Interstate 5, take the Mercer Street Exit and follow the signs www.marqueen.com to Seattle Center/Space Needle. During the summer season, hotels are often full. You may elect to • We are located at 109 West Mercer Street, directly across the stay in any one of the numerous hotels in the area, and you will street from Bank of America and Next Door to Ozzie’s Tavern. be responsible for getting to our offices by 6:30 a.m. on the day Street parking is limited to 2-hour parking meters, though there of your course. We are located in lower Queen Anne, downtown are several pay lots near our offices. Seattle, and are a short taxi cab ride away from most of the hotels and equipment shops.

Lodging Parking: Free long-term parking is generally difficult in the vicinity of Alpine Ascents. If you plan to stay in Seattle and have a In Seattle car, try to arrange a taxi or ride to our offices on the morning you leave for the trailhead. We recommend booking a room for the night prior to the start of your course and for the last night of your course. After the course, we will return to our offices and you can return to your hotel. Emergency Contact Because our last course day is generally a summit day, there are variables which make it difficult to guarantee the exact time each The best way for family or friends to contact you in an emergency course will end. is through the Seattle office: (206) 378-1927. For emergencies after business hours, you may contact our Director of Programs, Gordon The Marqueen Hotel offers Alpine Ascents climbers a discounted Janow at home: (206) 419-0097. rate throughout the summer. Please tell them you are with Alpine Ascents in order to receive the special rate. The Marqueen Hotel is located about one block from our office. Reservations for your room should be made as soon as possible

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Backpacker Information 2 Alpine Ascents rents quality equipment at reasonable rates. In addition, gear is now available for purchase at the Alpine Ascents Equipment Store where hikers on an Alpine Ascents expedition will receive a discount.

We have storage for gear and street clothes while you are on your team. Please bring a duffle bag/suitcase to store gear.

Packing Suggestions

• Pack everything in two layers of sturdy plastic. (Trash compactor bags work best and are equivalent to two layers of plastic)

• Bring one large trash bag to completely and easily cover the inside of your pack.

• It is likely that you will be asked to help carry some of the group Meals, Stoves, & Tents equipment, so make sure there is some additional room in and on your backpack The Backpacking and Wilderness Navigation course takes place in the wilderness, where there is no readily available support. We will be packing in everything we need, including food. Trip Cancellation Insurance

As there are many unforeseen circumstances that may occur Food Shopping during or leading up to the trip, we highly recommend trip cancellation insurance. You are responsible for all of your own food during the course, including lunches. It is advisable to purchase your foods before Trip cancellation insurance may allow you to receive we meet. For fresh food, if you are staying in Seattle, there are reimbursement if you need to cancel your expedition. several large supermarkets in the area, as well as the flagship REI. A comprehensive menu planning guide is included below. Please read the Alpine Ascents refund policy for your climb.

In most situations, trip cancellation insurance may be the only way Gear to receive a refund for unused services.

The Olympic Mountains are subject to highly variable weather Alpine Ascents International offers a plan in conjunction with our conditions. With this in mind, we developed our gear list for travel insurance partner. Follow the link below to register: the safety and comfort of our hikers. There may be occasions when required items are not used because of current weather https://www.alpineascents.com/trip-insurance-technical.asp conditions. You are welcome to call the office before your trip to check on conditions, but please note the gear list prepares you for poor weather conditions. Please read your annotated equipment Cancellation & Refund Policy list very carefully. At your gear check we will check and organize personal/group gear. Alpine Ascents must adhere to a strict refund policy on all expeditions. Please review your application, brochure and our Review your Gear List website for current refund policy. Our refund policy also protects other members who have committed their time and money Follow this link for the required gear list and rental form: to the expedition. Please visit alpineascents.com for a full list of www.alpineascents.com/cascades-backpack-rental-form.asp expedition cost inclusions/exclusions.

You are required to bring every item on this list as described so be http://www.alpineascents.com/cascades-backpack-price-date.asp as precise as possible when packing.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Backpacker Information 3 Evacuation Fee

For hikers who need to be escorted from the wilderness, there is a minimum fee of $350.00

Tipping

Guides are permitted to accept and greatly appreciate tips. An average tip per guide is generally $50 and above.

Leave No Trace

Alpine Ascents International practices Leave No Trace principles on all expeditions. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment.

Please Visit: www.lnt.org/learn/7-principles

As guides, we spend time teaching the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principals and practices. There is nothing more beautiful than working hard to get high into the mountains, come upon a pristine campsite, witness incredible views and have the feeling that no one has been there before.

Conversely, there is nothing more disheartening than working hard to climb a mountain, reaching a site and encountering trash, food waste and toilet paper. Please read the seven LNT principles, and call the office if you have any questions about what you can do to plan ahead.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Backpacker Information 4 Preparing for a Backpacking Trip

A Training Program for Alpine Ascents’ (taking perhaps Wednesday and Sunday as days off, for example.) Backpacking and Wilderness Navigation Be sure to include a 5–10 minute gentle warm-up before working at your target heart rate for the day (for most workouts, choose a By Courtenay & Doug Schurman of BodyResults.com level of exertion that allows you to connect a few words together in a phrase, but leaves you feeling comfortably tired at the end of Introduction the workout), and cool down with 5–10 minutes of appropriate stretching of the muscles you use most in your activity, including Backpacking requires cardiovascular endurance (via aerobic lower back, calves, hamstrings, hips and quadriceps. training), strength endurance (through strength conditioning), and backpacking-specific training (via hiking with a pack). Being in strong physical shape is one of the most important aspects for Strength Conditioning successful participation in a multi-day course. During your training, you should be planning to progressively ramp up your pack Training with free weights, bands, a backpack, bodyweight weight, duration (time or mileage), and speed of weekly training exercises, or gym machines will help you build overall strength, hikes to give you backpacking-specific conditioning that cannot particularly in the core (lower back and abdominals), upper back be matched by any other sort of training. and shoulders, and legs. Developing strength in your upper back and shoulders will help you with such tasks as carrying a heavy pack and using trekking poles. The calves, hips, quads, hamstrings Cardiovascular Conditioning and glutes are all involved in ascending and descending non- technical terrain, and strength endurance is required in all areas of Suggested activities include jogging, walking on an inclined the legs and hips. treadmill, doing stair stepping or stepmill training, trail running, working on an elliptical machine, walking up and down hills, Training primarily with free weights will give you the functional, or participating in step aerobic classes. While biking, rowing backpacking-specific strength that will help you most in the and swimming are also good cardiovascular options for the mountains. Free weight-training requires that you balance the off–season or earliest stages of training, be sure as you get closer weights as you would your own body, weighted with a pack, in to your course that you include predominantly spinal-loading three-dimensional space. When starting any strength conditioning cardiovascular exercise such as any of the activities mentioned program, complete two full-body strength workouts a week for above. 30–45 minutes each, focusing on compound exercises such as squats, lunges, step-ups, dips, pull-ups, rows, dead lifts, bench When first beginning a cardiovascular training program, begin presses, pushups, and overhead presses. In the beginning phase with three workouts (i.e. Monday, Wednesday and Friday) of 30 of strength conditioning, your focus will be building a foundation minutes of sustained activity at a moderate intensity, and build to for harder workouts; to that end, keep the weight light enough to 4–5 aerobic sessions of sustained effort for at least 45–60 minutes concentrate on good form and complete 2 sets of each exercise

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Training Program 5 (Strength Condition continued) for 12–15 repetitions. As you continue to train, you will shift You can find additional training resources at BodyResults.com: focus to building strength, strength endurance, and mental and physical stamina; each phase varies the weight used, repetitions • Training Articles completed, number of sets, and rest interval. Most important • Training Books and DVDs in strength training is to be sure you maintain proper form at all • Customized Online Mountaineering Specific Training times in order to prevent injury or strain. Special discounts are available for Alpine Ascents Customers at: www.BodyResults.com/aai Climbing Conditioning This training information was provided by Wilderness Sports Hike steep outdoor trails, gradually increasing your pack weight conditioning experts Courtenay and Doug Schurman of with each outing until you are at your target class pack weight. BodyResults.com. They are the exclusive conditioning resource for If you live where it is relatively flat, go up and down stairs or train Alpine Ascents. They oversee all client training, are co-authors of on an inclined treadmill or whatever terrain you have access to. A the book, The Outdoor Athlete (2009) and are creators of the Train reasonable goal would be to ascend 2,500 feet carrying a pack of To Climb Mt Rainier DVD. 50 pounds in a 2–3 hour period, or roughly 1,000 vertical feet in an hour. A good training option for pack weight is to carry water in gallon containers or collapsible jugs, so you can dump water at the top as needed, to lighten the load for the descent.

Trekking poles (optional for Alpine Ascents courses) may be helpful for balance and for taking some stress off the knees in early season. However, you will want to be as comfortable with balance and footing as you can while freeing up your hands to get across streams or fallen logs. In early season, you might start with a hike that gains up to 1200’ elevation over 6 miles round trip and carry a 15# pack; each hike try adding 3–5 pounds until you are comfortable with a 30# pack, then begin increasing the total elevation gain and mileage. When you can gain 2,500 feet with a 30# pack, start decreasing rest breaks and increasing speed, and once you reach your target time, add the final weight until you can carry your 50# pack for the desired elevation gain and mileage.

Flexibility Conditioning

Be sure to include at least 5–10 minutes of targeted stretching following every workout, specifically for the hamstrings, glutes, hips, calves, lower back and quadriceps. If you have any areas of concern early season, add emphasis to making sure you have normal range of motion about all your joints. This will become even more important as you add weight and distance to your conditioners. Be sure to include at least one recovery day per week and listen closely to your body. Take the final week to taper or gradually reduce intensity and volume of training so that by the time you leave for your climb you are well rested and physically and psychologically up to the challenge.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Training Program 6 Backpacking Meal Planning

Overview All food selection is a compromise between taste, weight, and volume (the space needed to pack an item in your Food is one of the basic pleasures of wilderness travel. There are backpack) - A block of cheese is easier to pack than a similar countless options for putting together healthy and delicious meals amount weight of shredded cheese because it is denser. for long wilderness trips, depending on how much time, effort Dehydrated meals are the lightest meals to pack and easiest to and money you have to spend on preparation before and cooking prepare, but if you don’t’ like them it doesn’t really matter how during the trip. Thorough meal planning and preparation is a light and easy they are. must! Bring food that you like - 4 days is a long time to be unhappy While all of our expeditions do include meals, our courses serve a with your food choices. If you don’t like a particular food in broader function of teaching sustainability and self-sufficiency in your home, it is unlikely you are going to start enjoying it in the the mountains. For this course, you will be responsible for bringing mountains. and cooking your own food. Guides will review all food items at the gear check. It’s your responsibility to check food preferences and amounts prior to your trip - Is 1 cup dry cereal with 3 For the Backpacking Course you will need: tablespoons of powdered milk enough for one breakfast or will 3 Breakfasts you be happier with 1.5 cups? How much pasta should you bring 4 Lunches for one dinner...2 packets of instant oatmeal or 3? Trying out a few 3 Dinners mountain meals at home will give you a much better sense of what to bring. Test out snack/lunch options before your course.

Basic Principles Condiments – Salt, pepper, mustard, hot sauce, sugar, etc. are all Nourishment and mountaineering are inseparable for those who great additions to any meal plan, especially if you are not using wish to successfully enjoy mountaineering. Climbing requires dehydrated meals (as they are already very high in sodium). The higher daily energy expenditure than most other strenuous lightest option is to pick up individual serving packets from the activities. Eating well and frequently sustains energy levels and deli section at the grocery and store them in a Ziploc bag. Also, keeps us happy as well as helps us to combat the cold conditions very, very small (1 oz.) plastic storage containers with screw-on and inclement weather we will likely encounter in the mountains. caps can be purchased at most outdoor stores for condiment One of the most challenging parts of a mountain guides job is storage. discussing and advising our climbers on the types and quantities of food to bring on a mountaineering expedition. Unlike clothing or sleeping gear where climbers simply have or don’t have an adequate item, food is somewhat subjective. Hot Drinks - an essential part of breakfast and dinner for both hydration and wellbeing. Coffee drinkers take heart – there can be

Some climbers eat large quantities of food, some don’t. Some love dehydrated meals while others have digestion issues from eating too many. As guides, we can’t tell you exactly what you are going to like or how much you are going to eat and there is no way for us to tell you if you’re going to want 2500 or 3500 calories per day. With that in mind, here are some general thoughts on food planning:

Too little food is terrible, but too much food is not the answer - Going hungry and/or having to live off the extra food of other climbers and guides is not fun. Consider the weight and volume of what foods you are bring.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Menu Planning 7 decent coffee in the mountains! Starbuck’s VIA’s have become the • 3 individual pkg. instant oatmeal or Cream of Wheat new standard on mountaineering expeditions. A small portion of • 3 tbs. milk powder powdered milk and sugar can be added to preference. Black tea, • 1 hot drink (hot cocoa, tea, cider, coffee) yerba mate, herbal teas, hot chocolate and powdered chai are other options. Plan on bringing enough for 2 to 5 hot drinks per Option 4 day! • 2-4 eggs (powdered) • 2-4 strips pre cooked bacon Food Storage: • 1 breakfast bar or half a bagel Meats and cheeses are great foods for this course as they will not • 1 hot drink (hot cocoa, tea, cider, coffee) spoil due to cold temperature. Reduce excess packaging. Get rid of boxes, extra wrapping, etc. Ziplocks are great for repackaging Hot Drinks food. A few medium sized stuff sacks are great to help organize Hot drinks are a basic part of breakfast and dinner. Hydration is a food while in camp. key element to climbing, and the more hot drinks the happier and healthier you will be. It is a good idea to repackage drink mixes in Ziploc bags to save on the amount of trash. Some ideas are: Hot Drinking Water Chocolate, Hot Lemonade, Instant Coffee, Spiced Cider, Herb or Black Tea, Warm powdered milk and brown sugar You may want to consider bringing Nuun active hydration tablets or other cold drink mix to add into drinking water for electrolyte replacement during your course. *Please note the emphasis on Lunches hot drinks and other liquids in the menu. Staying hydrated while climbing is very important, and this issue is addressed in-depth Lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner. It while on the course. is the most important meal of the day and should have enough variety to keep you happy. Your lunch bag should be an amount approximately equivalent to your breakfast and dinner bag put Breakfast

Breakfasts can be taken care of with either quick-cooking hot cereals or hearty cold cereals, like Muesli, Grape Nuts, Granola, etc. (something with lots of calories and carbohydrates, not something which is all sugar). Eggs in the powdered form are also a good option for the nutritional content they provide.

Most hot cereals are better when fortified with something like raisins or other dried fruit, in addition to sugar or honey and powdered milk (the best brand of powdered milk for mixing ease and taste is Milkman). Hot cereals are cheaper when purchased in a larger quantity and then repackaged at home instead of purchased in individual serving pouches of which you generally need at least two of per person anyway. The following examples suggest quantities for one person for one breakfast:

Guides’ Recommendation (~300–600 calories):

Option 1 • 1 cup Grape Nuts or Muesli or other cereal • 3 tablespoons powdered milk (dry mix in bowl, then add water) • 1 hot drink (hot cocoa, tea, cider, coffee) Option 2 • 1/3 cup instant Cream of Wheat • 3 tbs. milk powder & 1 tbs. sugar (dry mix all above & mix with 1 1/3 cup boiling water) • 1 hot drink (hot cocoa, tea, cider, coffee) Option 3

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Menu Planning 8 Jerky Trail Mix Energy Bars Corn Nuts Large Cookies Candy Bars Granola Bars Bagels String Cheese Drink Mix Cheese Squares Hard Candy Crackers (cheese or PB) Drink Mix w/ electrolytes Caloric info: www.whatscookingamerica.net/NutritionalChart.htm

Dinners

For the greatest preparation and cooking ease, freeze-dried food is an option. Usually, these foods only require that boiling water be added, and can be eaten within minutes. Often the packaging serves as heating container, and the meal may be eaten from it; thus there are no pots/bowls to clean. The downside of freeze- together. dried food is the cost, (often 3 to 5 times that of other options) and many people experience gastro-intestinal problems when on Continuous eating of small quantities keeps up energy levels all a steady diet of freeze-dried food for more than three or four days. day. With that in mind, lunches should consist of several items that can be eaten easily on the run. The following example is for one For only slightly more effort but vastly reduced cost, any person for one lunch: supermarket can be tapped for a wide variety of easily prepared foods. Items such as Lipton rice or pasta entrees in envelopes Guides’ Recommendation (~800–1,200 calories): cook in 5 to 10 minutes, and are very tasty. (There are many other brands available). It is best if you experiment ahead of time at Option 1 home, so that you know which you prefer. • Cold Pizza or fresh sandwich • Bagel with meat & cheese For those with a culinary creative streak, very tasty meals can be • Your favorite candy bar made up from scratch with only a minimum of additional effort. • Piece of fresh fruit Items such as quick brown rice, quick or instant white rice, bulgur, • Cold drink mix for your water instant precooked and dried beans, dehydrated vegetables, packaged or bulk sauce mixes, smoked salmon, exotic cheeses Option 2 and whatever spices and herbs you like or want to experiment • Bagel with meat & cheese with can be prepared in excellent combinations. The following • Your favorite candy bar sample recipes are for one person for one dinner: • 4-6 fig or other cookies • ¼ cup mixed nuts Guides’ Recommendation (~800–1,200 calories): • Some hard candies or chocolates • Cold drink mix for your water Option 1 Option 3 (recommended summit day menu) • 2, 16 oz Hot drinks (hot chocolate, tea, coffee, hot tang, etc.) • 4 Energy bars • 1st Course: 1 package Lipton rice or pasta dinner. Substitute • 2 energy gels powdered milk for real milk. Real butter keeps in a plastic bag for • Your favorite candy bar a many days in a mountaineering environment. • Cold drink mix for your water • 2nd Course: Soup. One Ramen package (made with 3 versus 2 • ¾ oz. package of Corn Nuts cups of water is better for the hydration level); OR a dehydrated • 1 oz. beef or turkey jerky soup mix made from concentrate and boiling water.

Option 4 Option 2 • 3-6 hearty crackers (i. e. Pilot bread or Rye crackers or equivalent • 2 Hot drinks. volume of your favorite) with meat & cheese • 1 cup dry pasta cooked (whole wheat elbow macaroni cooks • 2 energy bars or candy bars ¼ cup very fast and space efficient to pack), 1 small can (or bag!) tuna • Some dried fruit ¼ cup mixed nuts or GORP or chicken added when done (oil packed has more calories), 1 • Cold drink mix for your water envelope of a powdered sauce mix, and a little butter • Soup. Two packages of couscous soup (repackaged in zip lock to Possible Substitutions: save weight and reduce mountain trash)

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Menu Planning 9 Option 3 (recommended summit day menu) • 2 Hot drinks. • Backcountry Casserole (a one-pot meal): 1/4 cup pasta, 1/4 cup instant or quick cooking rice, 2 oz. diced Summer sausage or ¼ cup shredded beef or turkey je rky, fresh or powdered garlic, fresh or dehydrated onion, 1 package powdered sauce mix, thinly sliced cheese melted over the top prior to serving. • Soup (Lipton cup-a-soup)

Option 4 • 2 Hot drinks. • 1/3 cup of instant mashed potato mix added to pea (or other) soup mix (enough to make at least 16 oz), and 2 tbs. butter mixed in. Add ¼ cup shredded beef or turkey jerky (vegetarians can substitute cheese) • Soup

Dessert

Basically you want something sweet to have as you sit around after dinner, enjoying the scenery. Some people consider sweet hot drinks dessert, while others bring instant Jell-O pudding (a half package is enough for one dessert), cookies, or candy, or chocolate. Jell-O no bake cakes or specialty cookies can also make a great dessert.

Additional Resources

Caloric info: www.whatscookingamerica.net/NutritionalChart.htm

samples at www.wildernesscooking.com

Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, 6th edition, Chapter 3

The Expedition Cookbook, by Carolyn Gunn

The NOLS Cookery by Claudia Pearson of the National Outdoor Leadership School

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Menu Planning 10 Mountaineering Physiology

Hydration Hypothermia

Humans are mostly water. Our brain is cushioned by fluid, our Hypothermia occurs when body temperature drops to 95° F or joints are lubricated by fluid, our blood is 90% water, and every lower. It can develop whenever heat loss exceeds heat production biochemical reaction takes place in water. Exercise causes water and is common during the wind, rain and hail of summer as well loss through sweating, breathing, and metabolism. When it is as the cold of winter. In order to prevent hypothermia it helps to warm we sweat to lose heat and when it is cold we lose water to understand the mechanisms of heat production and heat loss. moisten the cold air we breathe. Obviously maintaining enough water in our system is important, but how important? Heat Production

Dehydration Our basal metabolic rate is a constant internal furnace. Shivering produces heat at a rate 5 times greater than our Dehydration is often overlooked as a cause of accidents, illness, metabolic rate. and injury in the mountains. With just a 2% fluid deficit we experience mental deterioration, decreased group cooperation, How We Lose Heat vague discomfort, lack of energy and appetite, flushed skin, impatience, sleepiness, nausea, an increased pulse rate and a 25% Conduction: Direct contact between a hot and cold object loss in efficiency. Convection: Heat loss to moving air or water Radiation: Infrared or heat radiation passing to a cold object. How much water should we drink to stay healthy? Probably more Evaporation: Through sweating and breathing than we usually drink. 3 to 4 liters a day is the minimum, with another liter added for cold or high altitude conditions. Thirst is a Signs & Symptoms poor indicator, alerting us to the fluid deficit after we are already dehydrated and indicating we are satiated before we are fully Mental: Apathy, lethargy, slow and improper response to cold, rehydrated. Urine color and volume are helpful indicators; darker, deterioration in decision making ability, increased complaints, more concentrated urine is an indicator of dehydration. This is a decreased group cooperation later sign, appearing after our body has decided to conserve fluid. Physical: Shivering, loss of fine motor skills progressing to stumbling, clumsiness and falling Fluids must be forced to maintain hydration in the mountains. Treatment & Prevention Drink early, anticipating fluid loss throughout the day. Drink often, preventing mental and physical deterioration. Remove yourself from the cold, dry off, insulate, and hydrate with Drink more than you think you need. hot drinks and food. With what we know about heat loss, we should never fall victim to hypothermia.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Mountaineering Physiology 11 Altitude Illness

Oxygen diffuses from the alveoli in the lungs into the blood because the gas pressure is greater in the alveoli than in blood. At altitude, diminished air pressure reduces the pressure in the alveoli and decreases the amount of oxygen diffusing into the blood.

Factors that can affect the incidence and severity of altitude illness:

1. Rate of ascent 2. Altitude attained (especially sleeping altitude) 3. Length of exposure 4. Level of exertion 5. Hydration and diet 6. Inherent physiological susceptibility

Signs & Symptoms

AMS: headache, malaise, loss of appetite, nausea, disturbed sleep, peripheral edema

Pulmonary Edema (fluid accumulation in the lungs): AMS, shortness of breath, fatigue, dry cough progressing to productive cough, increased heart rate and respiratory rate, rales (sounds of fluid in the lungs), ataxia.

Cerebral Edema (swelling of the brain): AMS, changes in level of consciousness, ataxia, severe lassitude, headache, vision disturbances, seizures, hallucinations, etc. Frostbite Prevention & Treatment As blood flow declines, cooling can progress to freezing. The fluid between cells freezes forming ice crystals that draw water Ascend slowly, climb high and sleep low, high carbohydrate diet, out of the cells, dehydrating them. A second phase of damage hydrate. If you experience the symptoms of altitude illness, the occurs during rewarming. Damaged cells release substances most effective treatment is todescend as soon as possible. that promote constriction and clotting in small blood vessels, impairing blood flow to the tissues. Frostnip, Superficial frostbite, and Deep frostbite correlate to 1st, 2nd and 3rd degree burns. Causes of frostbite include cold stress, low temperatures, wind chill, poor insulation, contact with supercooled metal or gasoline, interference with circulation; cramped position, tight clothing, local pressure, tight fitting or laced boots, and dehydration. Immersion Foot

A local, non-freezing cold injury that occurs in cold, wet conditions usually in temperatures of 30 to 40° F. It can occur with only ten hours of exposure to these conditions. Dry socks and feet provide total protection. Rotate socks as needed. Dry out socks on your body and in your sleeping bag overnight, and always sleep with warm dry feet.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Mountaineering Physiology 12