Georgia

Greater & Lesser Caucasus

A Greentours Trip Report

May 9th – 22nd 2012

Led by Kurt Vickery & Tolkha Shetekauri

Day 1 May 18th Departure

The group met up at Heathrow, enjoyed some coffee before getting aboard the plane. Our flight was to Tbilisi via Baku and it soon became apparent that we were ‘privileged’ to be in the company of a large number of Z-listers, BBC employees and various other noisy hangers on destined for the Eurovision song contest. Kurt was seriously underwhelmed when the girl next to him declared that Englewotsit Humberthingy was up front in first class It was a long flight but the welcoming smile of Shamil, Tolkha and Valikho upon our arrival lifted our spirits and we were soon taken to our hotel for our first night in Georgia.

Day 2 May 19th Davit Gareja

We awoke to a fine day and soon were on our way to Davit Gareja. Travelling through the suburbs we soon started climbing out of the sprawl and into hilly countryside. Only a matter of a few kilometers passed before Valikho pulled over for us to explore some quite ordinary looking slopes. These, however, were home to one of the floral gems of Georgia, namely the type of Iris iberica. Sadly, after scouring for some time, we were unable to find any sign of the Iris despite being quite sure that we were in the right spot,. However, it wasn’t a waste of time as we did find treasures such as Adonis flammea and Astragalus brachycarpum, the first of many European Bee-eaters and gorgeous displaying Black-headed Buntings. Moving on we encountered increasing numbers of Cattle Egrets especially around shallow seasonal pools, and it was in one of these that we found Swallows collecting mud for their nests and just behind them easily spooked terrapins warming themselves in the sun.

Travelling on we entered a rolling prairie-type habitat consisting of huge areas of almost treeless natural grassland. We stopped at an interesting spot that had been cultivated at some time, skirted by a planted area mainly of Ulmus, The ex-cultivated field was a mass of larkspur and Salvia nemorosa, and in the trees we were able to watch our first Green Warblers. A few miles further on we started to encounter quartering Marsh Harriers and it soon became apparent why. The area was wetter in the bottom of the shallow valley that we were following and eventually we arrived at a quite substantial lake. Getting out of the car, the cacophony

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 1 from the abundant Marsh Frogs was quite deafening, but couldn’t mask the explosive song of the numerous competing Great Reed Warblers. It was great fun trying to see them and the Sedge Warblers too. They occasionally gave us a glimpse to reassure us that our song recognition was up to scratch. In the middle of the lake some Ruff dropped into an islet and on the far reed bed a Marsh Harrier was taking nest material - quite wonderful, but we needed to move on.

Driving along at a comfortable pace Griffon Vultures circled overhead. On some rocks we found a perched Hoopoe. It had something obviously just right for a hungry chick in its mouth but quite disgusting to us - wherever it had poked its head to get it was obviously quite ‘orrible’ too as its normally resplendent crest was ‘slicked back’ with something unmentionable. From here on the road started to have small thickets of shrubs on each side, mainly of Paliurus and Pyrus salicifolia. This plus the presence of telegraph lines all added up to encourage shrikes, and Red-backed and Lesser Grey were very common along this stretch. We finally arrived at our destination, the sublime monastery of Davit Garija, set in an extraordinary landscape of weather-sculpted rocks that defy description.

Before entering the historic site itself a fine picnic was assembled by Valikho, but being naturalists in a new land meant that it was irresistible for us to not just sit and eat, and of course we were walking about with sandwich in one hand and binoculars at the ready in the other! We were a few days later than groups from previous years and it made quite a difference as we chanced upon a mass first emergence of Hungarian Gliders, which had Brenda following them around keenly trying to capture on her camera (her pictures were super). Other butterflies were numerous too, but especially Glanville Fritillary. Kurt found a Holly Blue ovipositing on the flowers of Paliurus! Scattered around the picnic blanket were some fine spikes of Leopoldia caucasica, and in the scrub Peter found some very tall and floriferous Dictamnus caucasicus.

The monastery site itself is just beautiful, moulded into a natural amphitheatre. Above it is a very steep climb to a ridge that overlooks Azerbaijan - we just had to go and have a look. These slopes are also a station for Iris iberica iberica, but again we weren’t to see it. We later learned that the season had been so dry that plants had simply aborted flowering, and there were barely any leaves either; we did find the leaves of another Iris, Iris pumila though. Arriving at the top were a number of soldiers, keeping guard as this is more or less the border with Azerbaijan and there has been an uneasy tension in recent times. The soldiers were very friendly and handshakes and smiles were exchanged. From the top of the ridge before us we could see for miles and miles into Azerbaijan. Large numbers of Griffons passed quite close and kept Peter enthralled for some time. The path made a circular route and on the way down we found more butterflies, including Osiris and Mazarine Blue plus a very obliging Cardinal. There were some fine nettle trees and a superb specimen of Lonicera caprifolia. Brenda had decided not to trek all the way up the top and had spent some time just sitting quietly near the monastery. She had been lucky enough to see Golden Orioles and while she was showing us just where, we were treated to views of a Woodchat Shrike. Just before we got back to the car a Blue Rock Thrush appeared before us with a huge caterpillar in its beak. It was time to leave, the low evening light started to backlight the beautiful Stipa on the hillsides making the amble back a joy , Brenda’s sharp eyes found Little Owl and Calandra Lark which Valikho just loved looking at through Kurt’s binoculars while being shown the birds figured in the field guide. A thoroughly enjoyable first taste of Georgia! Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 2

Day 3 May 20th Gudauri via the Jvari Church

Another fine morning, Kurt opened his balcony windows that faced some close by treetops and enjoyed watching Greenfinches at close quarters. Turning around to go back in he noticed that a Green Warbler had sacrificed itself on the window. Only nature lovers would take such a thing to the breakfast table but the tragedy of its demise meant that we could admire its tiny exquisite corpse, a beautiful mix of green shades that few get to see. It was a great talking point as was the fact that poached or fried egg or even omelette meant the same thing as far as the waitress was concerned.

Our first stop was at the Jvari church, a World Heritage site with a commanding view over the surrounding countryside. In the churchyard we found masses of familiar henbane in disturbed ground but here and there were the startling purple Verbascum phoenicuem and pretty Silene boissieri and a fine array of Centaurea.

Below the church were some meadows and a small lake that cried out to be explored. Here we met with some interesting butterflies - Small and Chapman’s Blues and, very large for a ‘grizzled’ skipper, plentiful Yellow-banded Skipper. There were the spikes of Echium russicum here and there. Amongst some scrub we encountered Glass Lizards and overhead a Booted Eagle.

A quick explore in some hazel woodland revealed Helleborus caucasicus in fruit. On the fringes Brenda found the largest specimen of Elaeagnus angustifolius imaginable. We moved on and made another stop near another fine church at Ananuri overlooking the Jinvali reservoir. Nearby was a steep rocky hillside thick with stunted hornbeam. A track cutting through the woods had some fine Monkey Orchids and Sword-leaved Helleborine, great colonies of Buglossoides purpureo-caeruleum weaved in and out of the undergrowth and were in fine flower where they received enough light. Butterflies included Adonis Blue and Scarce Swallowtail and we added Coal Tit and Blackcap to the bird list. On the way back we found parasitic Phelypaea coccinea and Ajuga chaemaepitys on a dry bank; the aroma of thyme was close to overwhelming as we disturbed it.

Further along our road Tolkha knew of a spot for Snowdrops. It was another very steep rocky hillside covered in the now very familiar hazel and hornbeam woodlands. Not surprisingly we were too late for flowers, but we did find thousands of plants of Galanthus alpinus in fruit. It would have been great to explore further but we needed to get to Gudauri. Our road now followed the deep wide Azagi valley. We could begin to see snow on the mountain tops in the distance, trees became sparser and sparser as we got higher and the flaming blooms of Rhododendron luteum in turn became increasingly frequent. At one point Brenda shouted ‘stop!’ declaring that she had seen a large white raptor; we were about to leave clueless, when out of nowhere appeared our first Egyptian Vulture.

On our way up the mountain it started to rain heavily with some spectacular thunderbolts. We arrived at the hotel that was a very welcome sight, however Valikho asked if we wanted to carry on to the top of the pass first. British stiff upper lips required that we should and so it was on through the ski resort. Valikho stopped at a well known site for Snowdrops, here we could see abundant Galanthus platyphyllus, but it was the huge plum coloured bells of Fritillaria latifolia that really grabbed our attention, even though they were only just about visible in the

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 3 gloom. We went back to the hotel full of excitement at the prospect of seeing them in better light in the morning.

Day 4 May 21st Cross Pass and Truso Gorge

Despite the stormy weather we had a very comfortable night at Gelas. It was an excellent guesthouse, and the log fire and most palatable evening meal were very welcome. We were fully expecting a lousy day so it was a very pleasant surprise to awake to a still and sunny if hazy morning. The dining room gives a marvelous panoramic view of the surrounding hills and mountains and we were able to watch birds from the table in a nearby rose bush including Common Whitethroat, Whinchat, Common Rosefinch and a single Twite, as well as a pair of Redstart feeding young in a nest just above the window where we were sitting.

We set off for the day but had barely got going before the first photo opportunity presented itself. Tolkha valiantly climbed a slippery muddy slope with Brenda’s camera to take pictures of the showy Daphne glomerata. In the meantime Kurt and Peter get a ‘heard only’ tick with a rasping Corncrake.

Driving on Georgia’s famous Primulas soon start to take centre stage at this time with Primula algida along with Gentiana angulosa and Veronica gentianoides. We stopped at what would ordinarily be a bridge over a stream, but it was surrounded by thousands of Caltha following the course of the fast flowing stream as far as the eye could see. The Marigolds were interspersed with some fine clumps of Primula auriculata, Gagea sulfurea and large emerging rosettes of Veratrum lobelianum, We could hear the cries of Red-billed Chough and saw the birds too as we moved on. A little further up the road we found a perfect little ‘crevice garden’ with Draba bryoides and Saxifraga juniperifolia; in the surrounding grass were Trollius patulus and diminutive Anemone caucasica. We then went on to a very gaudy Soviet-era viewpoint that overlooks a breathtaking ravine; in the surrounding shrubs we saw Caucasian Chiffchaff.

Moving on we get our first real chance to see Galanthus platyphyllus in their thousands and vast numbers of Fritillaria latifolia too, probably one of the finest bulbous plants to found anywhere. It was too good an opportunity to miss and we spent quite some time taking photographs. Higher still we found Alpine Chough before reaching the top of the pass. Here again there were great masses of Primula, but we were hoping to see the natural hybrid Primula zaliko, named by Shamil for his friend that had been killed in a climbing accident some years before. There were more Galanthus and Fritillaries here but they were not anywhere near as numerous. The Primula we were looking for has white flowers but proved stubbornly inconspicuous. Tolkha was determined to find it and we kept seeing him running up and around the plains and slopes before finally we met up with him - he had found one!

We started to go down the other side of the pass and stopped at a bizarre natural phenomenon of seeping travertine that colours great areas of hillside a strange mix of ochres and oranges. There were quite a few locals enjoying the spectacle, and having their photographs taken. We too took a few snaps and, scanning the area, found Ring Ouzel and Snow Finch and by the river a Dipper flew past. In the meantime Tolkha has done his ‘mountain goat’ thing again and came back with samples of Aipyanthus pulcher and Thlaspi huetii. At the bottom of the pass at

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 4 the other side we approach the magnificent Truso gorge. Like so much of Georgia this is an area of deep valleys within deep valleys.

In the gorge itself we stopped for a minute to admire a dramatic cliff on the opposite side enhanced with a cascading horsetail of a waterfall - the rockface had Wallcreeper written all over it but was too distant to stand any real chance of seeing one. There are simple dwellings dotted here and there amongst much older settlements with discernable evidence of ancient terraces on the very steep hillsides. A little further along we stopped for our picnic and had flypasts of Peregrine and Lammergeier. On the rocky slopes behind us we found Gentiana angulosa and Dryas caucasica, always a beautiful combination. Other plants of interest were Llodia serotina and some very large cushions of Saxifraga juniperifolia, Viola somchetica and our first Primula ruprechtii. After the picnic we attempted to go further up the valley but we were stopped in our tracks by a bridge building project and then by a soldier guarding the border. He was a friendly soul as usual, but he had orders to follow. We decided to make the most of the situation and spend more time in the places we had already been. This turned out to be an extraordinary piece of luck as we saw a yellow dot on some grassy slopes which turned out to be Fritillaria collina. It is unusual to find a Fritillaria on its own and a little more searching yielded several more (probably not recorded from the site before). It was at this point that we realised that we were just twenty yards from our picnic stop!

Driving back towards the hotel we decided to investigate a smaller gorge just outside the Truso. It is hard to tell from the maps but we believed this to be called the Kobi. We followed a river as far as the 4x4 would let us and found ourselves amongst some meadows surrounded by thick birch woodland. Primulas algida, ruprechtii, auriculata and macrocalyx were here and masses of Aipyanthus pulcher.

By the water Brenda found some Dactylorhiza caucasica and flushed a Common Sandpiper. Scrambling through the steep scrubby birch woodland we found yet more Fritillaria collina, Anemone fasciculata just starting to bloom and thinly scattered Corydalis alexeenkoana.

Day 5 May 22nd White Aragvi Gorge

A brief walk around the hotel before breakfast. We could hear and then see Golden Orioles in some poplar trees. Returning to the dining room that overlooked the trees, we had great views of perhaps a dozen birds, Today we were heading just downhill of Gudauri, firstly to the Khada valley within the White Aragvi Gorge complex. The rain was quite persistent by the time we arrived. The woods were spectacular, again mainly hazel and hornbeam but dripping wet and it was hard going to find birds. We pushed on up the valley where the habitat was more open. In a rather wet meadow we find some very robust specimens of Dactylorhiza euxina. Kurt wandered off and chanced upon a wonderful dell with masses of Paris incompleta, Arum orientale, Polygonatum verticillatum, Galium odoratum and scrambling Humulus, a staggeringly beautiful combination of greens. In the wetter parts Cardamine uliginosa was abundant. Tolkha said we were going just a ‘little further’. A little further turned out to be a long and very steep drive up through more woodland. We came to a tiny village and passed the time of day with some friendly locals, rising further before we were taken quite by surprise by a large plateau with a small community of simple dwellings and charming benign cultivated plots. Here the most recently disturbed ground was full of Cardamine uliginosa, while the stock pens contained

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 5 lots of understandably dwarf Dachtylorhiza euxina. Tens of House Martins were collecting mud in the puddles formed by the heavy overnight rain. Onwards and upwards the valley steepened once more. Valikho looked at Kurt with a wry grin before saying, ‘Up there’? Without a chance to reply he turned the vehicle and drove straight up on to the turf of the slope which must have been a least one in four but it enabled us to get really quite high very quickly. We explored the area of quite short sward; there were thickets of Rhododendron luteum in tight bud, amongst them plentiful Anemone caucasica with some white examples, and plenty of intermediate shades. In the grass grew scattered Gagea anisanthos and we had a close encounter with a superciliaris form of Yellow Wagtail by a stream. If it’s possible there were even more spectacular colonies of Primula auriculata than we had seen anywhere else. We retraced our tracks back down the valley and stopped for our picnic overlooking the river below. The weather had cheered up a bit and we were joined by butterflies including Wood Whites and Gruner’s Orange-tips.

We got back to the main road and headed for the Ganisa valley. We found ourselves in some fine alder dominated woods. Here we saw dense stands of Cardamine impatiens and spent some time admiring and discussing the curious Dentaria bulbifera, a dicot with axillary bulbils. By now the weather took a turn for the worse so we decided to make our way back to the hotel. On the road back Valikho unexpectedly said ‘Lake want see?’ We of course said yes and he took yet another unfeasible track that made its way to a small plateau with as he said a small lake.

Here were a group of men fishing with the most rudimentary of gear, namely the nearest pole to hand – it was quite comical that they hadn’t even attempted to find a straight one. Around the lake were large groups of Daphne glomerata and we had great views of Red-backed Shrike. The weather really did get awful now so we were forced to make tracks but a last minute realisation that we are passing Scilla armena in fruit detained us just a bit longer. We got home really tired but Kurt and Peter decided to have another try for the Corncrake they had heard yesterday. Convinced that it was in a certain part of a cultivated plot they sneaked around to get a better viewpoint, only to find that it was now behind them and further away. The wood fire was a welcome sight when we got back in and Gela had laid on a wonderful last meal of Georgian speciality food for us leaving us joyfully replete. It is easy to get attached to this place and we were sad to be leaving in the morning.

Day 6 May 23rd Kazbegi

Today we bid fond farewell to Gela and travelled once more through the Cross Pass to our next destination, Kazbegi, a small town situated under the looming majestic mountain of its eponymous five thousand metre peak. We checked into our comfortable hotel, The Stepantsminda, but were very keen to get on with our day and were soon taken to some wonderful slopes near the hamlet of Tsdo. Valikho parked the car in a track below some crumbling grassy banks and straight away we started to find new plants: Pulsatilla violacea, Muscari pallens and Cerastium pseudokazbek at first and, wandering further, a whole hillside covered in Orchis mascula/pinetorum punctuated with large clumps of Aipyanthus pulcher, and we found restless Marsh Fritillaries. As the slopes steepen there were masses of Anemone fasciculata in typical and pink form along with Primula amoena. On a craggy outcrop were

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 6 perfect blooms of Iris furcata and the leaves of Iris lazica, were joined by familiar Geraniums sanguineum and ibericum. Where a small thicket had managed to take hold conditions were just right to host Polygonatum verticillatum and multiflorum and Lilium georgicum in bud. Higher still we were reacquainted with Fritillaria collina and added Anemone ranunculoides to our ever increasing list. On the way back to the car a Lammergeier flew past and the Corncrakes were making a right old din.

We then moved on through the breathtaking Dariel Gorge right up to the Russian border. We waited for what seemed an age for permits to be processed at the border post. The office is situated conveniently close to some impressive cliffs, which we soon found were host to some fine plants indeed - again Muscari pallens but abundant this time, and hugging the shadiest recesses of the cliffs lots of Lilium georgicum in bud. Much harder to find were the pendulous stems of Fritillaria orientalis, almost invisible amongst the concolorous grasses. Probably the last of the season, a single flower betrays their presence; we found quite a few only just in fruit. Deepest burgundy Silene pygmaea and Orobus cyaneus were favourites amongst the other plants. It was time for lunch so we went back a little way before having our picnic at the beginning of the Gveleti valley. A flock of Red-fronted Serins flitted around as we prepared the food. We were enjoying our lunch and looked up to see a Lammergeier which was joined by another and then another - none of us had seen three together before. After lunch we carried on further up what became yet another spectacular gorge dissecting the Dariel. Brenda suddenly demanded that we stop and quite rightly pronounced that we simply couldn’t just drive past the view without taking a photograph. We moved on just a few yards before seeing a Ring Ouzel so close as not to need the binoculars. The valley was dotted with dwarf prostrate Junipers, thousands of Polygala alpina and the adpressed rosettes of Chaemaesciadium acaule studded the turf and enormous drifts of Veratrum lobelianum set the scene. We arrived at a plateau which was as far as we could go and attempted to see the East Caucasian Tur. After some diligent scanning with Peter’s scope Tolkha finally detected some specks on a distant mountain top. They were pretty tiny in the viewfinder but we could see them well enough to tell that some of the males were rutting. Brenda found Rock Thrush and took remarkable photographs with her compact camera. Ring Ouzels were abundant and there were males seeing each other off all over the place. The Tur gradually faded from view and it prompted us to make our way back to the hotel.

Day 7 May 24th Juta Valley

Blurry-eyed we made a very early pre-breakfast visit to a little planted wood just above the town and gateway to some steep mountain slopes. Our targets were Snowcock and Caucasian Blackcock, walking to get a bit nearer to the snow which had retreated early along with our chance of seeing Guldestadt’s Redstart or Great Rosefinch. We found Tree Pipit and in the turf countless thousands of Pulsatilla violacea and Primula algida. On a very steep slope of coarse grass there were equally impressive numbers of Primula amoena, and it was fascinating to see that each were restricted precisely to their preferred habitat. Lots of Red fronted Serins were about as we scanned for ages, we could hear gamebird calls but none of them revealed themselves. We got a couple of ‘accidental’ Tur though. In the end we had to admit defeat and after breakfast headed for the Juta valley, Entering the valley we drove for a little way before a short stop at the village of Sno, the birthplace of a celebrated Georgian sculptor. There are

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 7 pieces of his work in the landscape nearby. We had a look around a pretty little church. In the middle of the village we stood on a bridge and saw two Dippers and a Common Sandpiper. Entering the valley proper, it seemed much greener with tightly cropped grass, probably a bit overgrazed with the hillsides etched with the tracks of centuries of sheep and goat activity. Birch, aspen and sallow make occasional spinneys with dense woodland higher up. Red- backed Shrikes are very numerous as are Painted Ladies. We made a number of brief stops and found a lot of interesting things. There was a seemingly endless flypast of Choughs. We found tiny things like Arabis nordmanniana and butterflies such as Grizzled Skipper and abundant Northern Wall Brown contrasting with majestic Golden Eagles in the sky. Kurt accidentally found Moonwort whilst chasing something else. Whilst scrambling around another spot our attention was grabbed by a colony of Pushkinia scilloides in fine condition. This turned out to be a sweet spot as above were a large number of Iris furcata in perfect bloom, their purple flowers looking fantastic against the yellow of the Primula macrocalyx that was competing for most numerous flower in the meadow. Here and there was a really stocky form of Fritillaria collina. We finally arrived at the tiny village of Juta, A wonderful group of dwellings from another time with a very rustic way of life. The houses were surrounded by little animal pens and beautifully crafted haystacks, piles of dung blocks for fuel stacked up reminiscent of the peat blocks used in Ireland. It was so shocking to see a slick new hotel/guesthouse on the village doorstep, seeming such an intrusion on our romantic notions of the good life, just heartbreaking to see.

We drove to a plateau above the village and found more Fritillaria collina before heading back down the valley for lunch. Valikho stopped the car for a Long-legged Buzzard perched by the river. This proved fortuitous as we saw Little Ringed Plover and Dippers that we would probably have driven straight past.

Amorous Green Toads were having a love fest in the puddles along the track and they went about their business oblivious to the danger from our wheels. We’d been so busy that we hadn’t realised how late it was.

Day 8 May 25th To Bakuriani

It was cold and windy but we were determined to give the Blackcock one more try. We were very lucky that one of Tolkha’s relatives, Archil, happened to be in town. He had been here guiding a group of Dutch birders, He knew a favoured spot for the birds and sure enough with some careful scanning we got our reward for the early start - just two males, but Peter was elated. We then started the long drive back towards Bakuriani with a couple of stops along the Sioni valley to try for Wallcreeper - sadly no luck. We again joined the road to the Cross Pass and were temporarily held up by a flock of a few thousand sheep. While we waited we got a fantastic close view of a pristine Rock Thrush.

Again we went through the Cross Pass and drove ever more towards our destination. We stopped for lunch at the Snowdrop colony we had visited on the first day. We found Silver- studded Blue flying around and the large white flowers of the Medlar Mespilus germanica. Just a fleeting glimpse of Krüper’s Nuthatch left us frustrated as we didn’t have time to search for it. We drove for some time before taking our lunch stop near Igoeti. We were here to see Paeonia tenuifolia which indeed we did, but all of the plants were in seed. This was a dense shrubby

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 8 woodland area made up of many species but primarily Paliurus, Cotinus, Crataegus, Rosa and Ligustrum, There was a maze of corridors presumably created by large browsing animals giving just the right conditions for the Paeonia - few if any of them are found under the cover of shrubs. There were lots of butterflies here and we added Green-underside Blue and Large Wall Brown to the list. Nightingales were common here too, As we had done the previous day, we hadn’t realised how late it was as there was just so much to see, so we tanked it up the motorway towards Borjomi where we needed to get our permits for the next few days’ explorations in the National Park. We started the last short leg towards Bakuriani and made a stop for what Tolkha thought was a site for Paeonia steveniana. It was pouring with rain and it was difficult to see very much but eventually we found some flowerless Paeonia. There were enough clues for us to establish these were in fact Paeonia caucasica. We didn’t see Paeonia steveniana but we did find another steveniana, in this case Orchis , a very robust specimen indeed as well as plentiful Helleborus caucasicus and Aquilegia caucasica. Peter was intent on finding birds and did just that with some Sombre Tits atop a pine tree. It was the last thing we would see before deciding enough was enough with the intense rain. We went straight to Bakuriani and checked into our hotel.

Day 9 May 26th Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park

We set off from our comfortable hotel and started descending into a ‘new’ landscape for the trip dominated by Picea orientalis and beech. It was such a relief to wake to fine sunshine after a night of torrential rain. We once again entered Borjomi before following the course of the powerful river that runs through the town. Before long we arrived at one of the many valleys that form the Karagauli National Park. We showed our permits at the warden’s house before entering the reserve. We made slow progress at first because of the many obliging butterflies posing for Brenda’s camera. Woodland Ringlet was a first and so was Pearl-bordered Fritillary. Silver-studded Blues were common. In shade there were lots of Galanthus alpinus in fruit and the velvety leaved Polygonatum glaberrimum. Here and there were rosettes of a Digitalis of the ferruginea persuasion. We were just beginning to enjoy the butterflies when the heavens opened again. Undeterred, we made our way up the heavily wooded narrow gorge that is created by a narrow yet fast flowing river. Orchids included heavily leopard-spotted Dactylorhiza urvilleana, Cephalanthera longifolia and the Birds-nest Neottia nidus-avis. A look deeper into the woods and there were lots of spikes of Lilium szovitsianum in bud. How we yearned to be able to come back in a couple of weeks to see them all in flower! Another first was a Speckled Wood making a brave attempt to dodge the rain. The form found here are very similar in colour to the ones found back in the UK. In the end the rain proved too much for us and we decided to head back ‘home’. We were well on our ascent of the hills leading to Bakuriani and the rain cleared enough for us to try a bit of woodland a little higher than the spot we had explored for Paeonia yesterday. What a place! A wonderful array of orchids: a trio of white Helleborine species, huge and variable Orchis steveniana, Orchis coriophora, Platanthera chlorantha, Anacamptis pyramidalis, and the enigmatic Steveniella satyroides. Very common here but again with well developed seed pods were many Paeonia caucasica. There were impressive drifts of Buglossoides purpureo-caerulea in areas where trees had fallen giving a very floriferous display seldom seen in this species, a few blind Galanthus and masses of leaves of Cyclamen colchicum, which is a rare plant in Georgia. It started to rain yet again so we made our way again, driving higher still and picking a track through a much denser bit of woodland. It was very wet indeed which made it

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 9 difficult even for the 4x4, so on foot we had a look around. We didn’t we find anything new, but some enormous Dachtylorhiza urvilleana and massive colonies of Paris incompleta looking especially luxuriant in the wet.

It was a bit early to retire so Brenda requested one last new area before dinner. Obliging as ever, Valikho took us across a wet plateau just below Bakuriani. He seemed to think we might be able to find Paeonia ruprechtiana. Now soaking wet we trudged across a wet meadow towards a labyrinth of copses. Here were lots of Lilium and Galanthus again, plus very nice plants of Pulmonaria dacica. We weren’t able to locate any Paeonia though a diligent search made us feel we had finally earned our supper.

Day 10 May 27th Javakheti Plateau

During last night’s very enjoyable meal, Peter declared an interest in trying again for Blackcock. The rest of us smiled sweetly and it was a 4.30 rise. A little way above Bakuriani just as the trees start to fizzle out we found acre upon acre of Anemone fasciculata that made the hillsides look as if they had had a recent dusting of snow. On some steep banks we found Orchis pallens. Some of the other slopes were yellow with Primulas. Valikho took us to a promontory that he knew people had watched Blackcock from before. We scanned for some time before Tolkha’s sharp young eyes picked up a bird on a distant slope. We got much better views than we did at Kazbegi. A brief wander around and we found a few of the promised Scilla rosenii that we were expecting to see later. Heading back to the hotel we were stopped in our tracks by spotting the huge palest yellow blooms of Paeonia steveniana. We promised ourselves to return after breakfast to take photographs. Breakfast over, we eagerly returned! There were some really large plants with lots of blooms making it difficult to choose the best ones. They were especially common where some old beeches had been felled. As we took pictures we could hear drumming somewhere, atypical to our ears. There was a discussion about what it might be before we saw a silhouette on a large spur of a beech - the scope confirms it and gives great views of Black Woodpecker knocking seven bells out of the decaying wood.

We travelled on and through the Anemone fields which gradually gave way to Primula pseudelatior and ruprechtii and, higher still, Primula algida returned.

Nearing the top of the pass we met Rhododendron caucasicum, and then an Army checkpoint. As ever the soldiers were very friendly and passports checked, we were allowed to venture onto the Javakheti plateau. The terrain is very different up here, and it is the realm of bulbous plants, much to Kurt’s delight. There were countless Scilla rosenii, but not as many as last year from what we could tell. Peter was very happy to see Armenian Gulls which to our surprise are the first gulls of the entire trip. We found lots of Ornithogalum balansae in flower and another one with winged capsules in fruit as well as three species of Gagea, Kurt felt a bit silly as he stopped the car to show the group a clump of Colchicum speciosum but just around the next corner there were countless thousands of their large glossy leaves that must herald an extraordinary spectacle in August.

We followed the track for a few miles to the village of Tabatskouri and the lake which gives it its name. The name roughly translates to ‘Ear Lake’ and you could just about be persuaded is

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 10 shaped like an ear, We pulled up to photograph a Yellow Wagtail of the very smart black headed feldegg race While we were doing this we get some more firsts: Jackdaw, White Stork and a mixed flock of Common Starlings and Rose-coloured Starlings. Our picnic was taken at the far side of the lake, and we had a great time watching birds over the water - Great Crested and Black-necked Grebes were less of a surprise than the Velvet Scoters that we saw. In the grass around the shore there were lots of leaves of a smaller Colchicum, that we assume is szovitsii as it is recorded in the area.

On the return leg we stopped briefly to photograph what was probably the last individual flowering Galanthus alpinus on the mountain. Opportunistic finds nearby were Corydalis alpina and the almost black, blue Bellevalia paradoxa.

Day 11 May 28th Abastumani observatory

Our journey took us back through the Kharagauli National Park and we took the opportunity to explore another valley a bit further than our previous visit. Again we parked at the ranger’s office. Valikho had a conversation with the ranger and told us that he said that visitors come here for the butterflies. It was very soon obvious why as we had barely entered the valley when we started to see Pearl-bordered and Glanville Fritillaries. One little scalloped clearing a patch of Bugle was alive with nectaring Pearl-bordered Fritillary bringing equal amounts of joy and sadness to think this is a scene almost gone from the UK. Other butterflies were abundant too including Wood White, Green-veined White, Sooty Copper, Holly Blue and many others. Perhaps the greatest prize though was the ‘only its mother could love it’ drab but scarce Tufted Marbled Skipper

Our next stop en route was at a rather curious crumbly clay hillside between Akhaltsikhe and Adigeni. This is a spot known to botanists for its very interesting Fabaceae, perhaps the most interesting of which was Onobrychis meschetica with lovely orangey flowers. Peter wandered around nearby and found Cetti’s and Reed Warbler, and Booted Eagle flew past. We moved on and the temperature soared, so the drive towards the observatory through cool Abies forest came as quite a relief.

Arriving at the observatory, now a comfortable hotel, we were disgorged very quickly and wasted no time in exploring the forest around us. We kept hearing Crossbills and eventually saw them. Peter found a Treecreeper before it was time to return for supper.

Day 12 May 29th Zekaris Pass

We had a lovely sunny start to the day. We drove for short while before entering the Zekaris Pass. The road gets very rocky and bumpy very quickly and is impassable by normal car. It was here that we really saw Valikho’s driving skills at their best as he negotiated some really very tricky terrain. Our first stop was in a glade absolutely full of Orchis mascula/pinetorum. We kept changing our minds about various colour forms of Dactylorhiza flavescens. Lily of the Valley was abundant in the understorey. Another glade had flowering Rhododendron luteum and spikes of Cephalanthera caucasica. Lots of Lilium szovitsianum in bud were found in the woodland areas. As the sun warmed the roadside rocks there were more Hummingbird

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Hawkmoths than you can shake a stick at. Amongst some tree roots sticking out of the roadside banks we found a pair of Rock Buntings.

While having a rather nice ‘make do’ breakfast, Brenda made herself even more popular by revealing a stash of hot chocolate sachets. The sun really started to get to work and butterfly numbers started to build up. There were lots of species to enjoy. For a moment we thought we had a Black-veined White drop in but it turned out to be a Clouded Apollo which spared just enough of its time to allow a snatched photograph. We made another stop where we found the massed leaves of Colchicum speciosum and one or two flowers of Scilla sibirica ssp caucasica. Just above the treeline we passed a fabulous ‘shotgun shack’ and nearby a crumbling bank with Muscari sosnowskyi, Ornithogalum aff schmalhausenii, Anemone caucasica and the lovely creamy yellow form of Corydalis caucasica.

We stopped near the top amongst another group of shepherds’ shacks and walked along a wonderful ridge giving panoramic views of the distant Turkish mountains, walking amongst flowering Rhododendron caucasicum.

Wandering back through the alleyways created by the shacks there was a pair of nesting Black Redstart and some very tame Red-fronted Serins allowing very close views - that is until a hen Sparrowhawk suddenly pounced causing mayhem until the Serins did a very good job of seeing her off. Tolkha came back from one of his wanderings with a sprig of powerfully scented Daphne mezereum. As we edged ever nearer to the top of the pass Brenda noticed Fritillaria latifolia, firstly just a few with the last vestiges of flowers and mostly already over but as we found patches of snow there were thousands of much fresher specimens and dense clumps of stunning blue Scilla sibirica amongst Trollius patulus. The Fritillaria followed us right to the top of the pass where we found a second Corydalis, this time angustifolia growing together with caucasica. The flowers are a very similar colour but the leaves quite distinct. We were here for a short time when as if from nowhere the clouds came up the valley and it started to thunder, so time to go!

We had nearly left the pass behind us when the sun came out strongly again. We saw a Camberwell Beauty and some Scarce Swallowtails. The Camberwell Beauty started ‘puddling’ and it was then that we noticed lots of other butterflies doing likewise. The most numerous were Dingy Skippers with up to eight huddled together at one time joined by other species but particularly Green-underside and Mazarine Blues. There were lots of restless Clouded Apollos flying about too. It gave us a very enjoyable last hour of the day.

Day13 May 30th Back to Tbilisi and Nichbisi

Another early start as we made the journey back to Tbilisi. We were taking a different route back to take in some interesting sites. Less than an hour into our journey we travelled through the Mtkvari gorge system, yet another of Georgia’s seemingly inexhaustible supply of spectacular valleys and powerful rivers. We took our breakfast at the ancient Troglodyte settlement of Vardzia, an impressive series of cave dwellings carved into a rocky mountainside, a bit like a Georgian Petra. Despite being less well known it is a World Heritage site with a subtle charm and not so ravaged by tourism. We explored a nearby area of rocks and pebbles that were a flood plain for the nearby river. Peter put the scope up to check for birds and found

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 12 us Tree Sparrow and Yellow-legged Gull, whilst Kurt looked for butterflies and found Mazarine Blues nectaring on Nepeta mussinii and a completely unexpected large female Sooty Orange-tip quite disjunct from her brothers and sisters of the Moroccan populations way to the west (this species is widely scattered through Turkey as well – ed!). Wending our way further towards Tbilisi we travelled for quite some time through steep cliffy valleys that seemed pretty similar along their whole length, but we found one stretch less than half a mile long that was festooned with Eremurus spectabilis. They were at peak flowering so we could easily have missed them at another time. We pushed on and after leaving the valley system we travelled through a much flatter landscape. Tolkha brought us this way as he wanted us to see a series of lakes including the largest in Georgia, Paravani. Unfortunately just as we got there it began to rain very heavily and there were some rather disturbing thunder and lightning episodes. We therefore had to restrict our birding to squinting through steamy windows – noting only Black- headed Gull, Common Tern and Tufted Duck. Lunch was taken utilising a handy bus shelter just right for the job, before we pushed on.

We got back to Tbilisi. Tolkha needed to go to the university so we dropped him off and met with Shamil. It was getting quite late but he was very keen that we should visit the limestone area around Nicbisi and we were whisked off without delay. We were tired but excited when we arrived at the site. It was much warmer than we had been all day and there was a really nice light. The area is a small series of limestone hills with very little soil cover, the impoverished nature of the habitat makes for a mosaic of stunted Carpinus, Juniperus, Quercus, Cotinus and Paliurus. Needless to say there were numerous plants that we hadn’t seen before on the trip the names of which Shamil reeled effortlessly off his tongue. We were particularly impressed with Centaurea carthalinus hosting some really fine Phelypaea coccinea and some really good forms of Artemesia splendens that looked fabulous spread prostrate on the bare crumbly limestone. There were no new butterflies but an intriguing collection of Burnet and Forester moths. We would have loved to have spent more time here but we needed to get back to pack ready for an early flight back home.

Day 14 May 31st Departure

A very early morning departure saw us sleepily waving goodbye to Valikho and the Shetekauri family…

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Systematic List Number 1 Flora

Species in [square brackets] were not seen this year.

Aceraceae Acer campestre widespread Acer laetum scattered Acer platanoides riverine forests Acer trautvetteri treeline forests in all regions Acer velutinus locally abundant at mid-levels, especially Lesser Caucasus

Adoxaceae Adoxa moschatellina Truso/Terek Valley Junction!

Alismataceae Alisma plantago-aquatica in leaf in the Davit Gareja

Amaryllidaceae Galanthus alpinus Above Bakuriani, Kharagauli, Azagri valley] Galanthus platyphyllus a few fine flowers emerging from the snow above Gudauri

Anacardiaceae Cotinus coggygria locally common in shibliak

Apiaceae [Anthriscus cerefolium near Signakhi [Anthriscus sylvestris scattered [Astrodaucus orientalis approaches to the Greater Caucasus Bilacunaria microcarpa finely dissect leaves noted in Davit Gareja Carum sp reddish-flowered sp Snostkali Valley Chamaesciadium acaule dwarf stemless species in the Gweletti Valley, Kazbegi, Juta etc Falcaria falcata scattered in leaf Heracleum antasiaticum Borjomi, Abastumani Heracleum sosnowskyi Widespread Laser trilobum large trifoliate leaves. Achalciche and Nichbisi Malabaila dasyantha Jvari, Nichbisi [Physospermus cornubiense scattered Sanicula europaea Common in forests Trinia leiogona scattered in lower areas – delicate white flowered umbel [Turgenia latifolia leaves in the Gareja steppe Zosima orientalis Gareja steppe and Jvari

Apocynaceae Vinca herbacea shibliak areas

Asclepiadaceae Vincetoxicum funebre dark flowered species. Achalciche and Nichbisi

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Araceae Arum orientale Scattered

Araliaceae Hedera colchica Borjomi Hedera helix Georgian Military Highway [Hedera pastuchovii scattered in Bakurianai and Lagodekhi]

Asteraceae [Achillea millefolium scattered] Achillea yellow species common in steppe zones Anthemis zyghia common at Davit Gareja Artemesia fragrans Davit Gareja Artemesia splendens Nichbisi Bellis perennis scattered Carduus adpressus Achalciche Carduus crispus Jvari and Georgian Military Highway Carduus nutans Nichbisi Centaurea bagadensis pretty mat-forming knapweed with pink flowers. Achalciche Centaurea bella Jvari Cicerbita macrophylla large blue sow-thistle in bud at Nichbisi [Cichorium intybus Nichbisi] Cirsium arvense Nichbisi Cirsium echinus Nichbisi [Cnicus benedictus Borjomi area] Dolichorhiza renifolia Senecio-like. In bud in the Darial Gorge Doronicum oblongifolium Bakuriani area Doronicum orientale Jvari [Inula helenium just one plant in flower en route to waterfall in Lagodekhi] Jurinea blanda Gareja steppe and Nichbisi. Also Jvari Jurinea carthalinica Achalciche and Nichbisi Leucanthemopsis vulgare Borjomi area Petasites albus widespread in Lesser Caucasus Petasites georgicus screes in the White Arigwi Valley – doubtfully distinct Petasites hybridus the common butterbur in the Greater Caucasus Psephellus carthalinicus knapweed-like. Common at Davit Gareja Psephellus meskheticus Borjomi Gorge Senecio massagetovii Achalciche Senecio vernalis scattered Stemmacantha pulchra Achalciche [Taraxacum confusum near Bakuriani] Taraxacum officinale widespread [Tephroseris cladobotrys scattered in Lagodekhi in mid-level forests, just coming out] Tragopogon grandiflorus Jvari Tragopogon tuberosum Borjomi Gorge Tripleurospernum caucasicum Common on drier spots in the Lesser Caucasus Tussilago farfara widespread

Berberidaceae Berberis iberica scattered in Kazbegi area, also Achalciche

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Berberis vulgaris common in shibliak habitats

Betulaceae Alnus barbata widespread Alnus incana shrubby alder. Nichbisi Betula litwinowii locally abundant in mountains. White bark [Betula pendula lower slopes of the Greater Caucasus] Betula raddeana Great Caucasus. More often on scree. Dark bark

Boraginaceae Anchusa italica lowlands Asperugo procumbens near Borjomi and Achalciche Buglossoides arvensis scattered in steppic areas Cerinthe glabra Achalciche Cerinthe minor limestone shibliak near Nichbisi Cynoglossum officinale scattered Echium vulgare scattered Echium (russicum) rubrum beautiful dark red flowered species in limestone shibliak near Nichbisi. Also Davit Gareja, Jvari and Achalciche Lappula barbata Nichbisi. Also Jvari and Achalciche [Lappula consanguinea Gareja steppe] Lappula squarrosa Borjomi Gorge and Achalciche Lithospernum purpureocaeruleum locally common in shibliak and lower forests Lycopsis orientalis mistaken for Anchusa. Signakhi. Also Gareja steppe Myosotis sylvaticum scattered in woods Macrotomia (Arnebia) pulchra scattered in alpine grasslands Moltkia caerulea lovely blue and pink alkanet, rather gone over when we saw it. Extreme rarity in Georgia. We saw it on the Gareja steppe Nonea lutea locally common in steppe Onosma armeniaca the white-flowered species at Achalciche. The white species in the Gareja steppe may have been a different one? [Onosma caucasica scattered] Onosma rupestris yellow. Achalciche Onosma sericea the more bristly yellow flowered species at Davit Gareja Pulmonaria dacica gorgeous lungwort. Georgian Military Highway and common in woods above Bakuriani Symphytum asperum blue flowers. Widespread Symphytum caucasicum Georgian Military Highway Symphytum grandiflorum white. Paratatsemi

Brassicacae Aethionema arabicum dry areas in the Lesser Caucasus Alliaria petiolata widespread [Arabis hirsuta scattered] Arabis sachokiana glabrous species in grasslands above Bakuriani [Aridopsis thaliana scattered] Barbarea vulgaris Juta Valley Bunias orientalis large white-flowered crucifer. Achalciche Capsella bursa-pastoris scattered

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Cardamine flexuosa is not present in Georgia – but it certainly looked like it. In leaf. Bakuriani area! [Cardamine impatiens widespread in forests]! Cardamine uliginosa along streams in both mountain areas Cardaria draba widespread in lowlands Coluteocarpus vesicaria in inflated seed in dry steppe in forest between Bakuriani and Borjomi Dentaria bulbifera scattered in higher forests in both mountain areas Dentaria quinquefolia widespread in forests at higher levels [Draba brunifolia higher parts of the pass above Bakuriani ] Draba bryoides beautiful species widespread on rocks in Great Caucasus Draba hispida Zekaris Pass Draba nemorosa small yellow Draba common in grasslands Draba polytrichum fine yellow cushion-forming species. Javakheti Plateau Draba scabra scattered in Greater Caucasus Draba siliquosa widespread white species Draba supranivalis rocky areas in alpine grasslands in both ranges Erophila praecox Darial Gorge [Erophila verna Gareja steppe] Erysimum leptophyllum Gareja Steppe Erysinum szowitsianum dry areas near Bakuriani Hesperis matrionalis Dame’s Violet. Roadsides near Tbilisi Hesperis voronowii pretty pink dame’s violet in the Darial Gorge [Isatis iberica cliffs on approach to Greater Caucasus] Murbeckiella huettii Darial Gorge Pachyphragma macrophylla widespread in Lagodekhi, also noted in Bakuriani area. Quite large plant with white flowers and large heads of flattened seeds. Only seen in seed in 2010 Sisymbrium officinale scattered Sobolewskia caucasica endemic white flowered crucifer a little like a small squat crambe on screes in Juta Valley, Great Caucasus – only in leaf this year Sobolewskia clavata very smelly species (!) in the gorges near Borjomi Sterigmostemon tomentosum weird contorted fruits. Achalciche Thlaspi arvense scattered Thlaspi orbiculatum? Javakheti Plateau Thlaspi perfoliatum widespread Turritis glabra Igoeti area. Also Nichbisi

Campanulaceae Campanula hohenackeri rangy bellflower. Gareja Steppe and Jvari Campanula stevenii elegant small single-flowered sp. Achalciche

Caprifoliaceae Sambucus ebulus widespread in leaf [Sambucus nigra scattered] [Sambucus triganii Lagodekhi] Viburnum opulus scattered in the Lesser Caucasus Viburnum lantana scattered in the Lesser Caucasus Lonicera caprifolia widespread

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Lonicera caucasica Nichbisi – nice shrubby species Lonicera iberica Jvari, Nichbisi etc

Caryophyllaceae Arenaria serpyllifolia Juta Valley, Greater Caucasus Cerastium argenteum silvery-grey leaved species on steppe slope between Borjomi and Bakuriani Cerastium arvense scattered Cerastium cerastioides Juta Valley Cerastium fontanum scattered in ruderal habitats Cerastium glomeratum scattered Cerastium hemischinicum Darial Gorge, Greater Caucasus Cerastium polymorphum Gweletti Valley, Greater Caucasus. Large flowers! Cerastium pseudokasbek Gweletti Valley, Greater Caucasus Cerastium purpurascens large-flowered species of alpine areas above Gudauri Cerastium semidecandrum Achalciche Cerastium sosnowskyi steppe slope between Borjomi and Bakuriani Cucubalus baccifer scattered throughout Gypsophila elegans Borjomi Gorge Minuartia aizoides Gweletti Valley, Greater Caucasus Minuartia circassica Gweletti Valley, Greater Caucasus Minuartia imamoena Gweletti Valley, Greater Caucasus [Minuartia imbricata Darial Gorge and Gweletti Valley, Greater Caucasus] Minuartia oreina Darial Gorge, Greater Caucasus Moehringia trinervia scattered Saponaria procumbens pretty little pink species on dry bluffs in the Borjomi area Scleranthus annuus Borjomi Gorge Silene armena Davit Gareja and Georgian Military Highway. Like italica but with dark-centred flower [Silene boissieri foothills of the Greater Caucasus] Silene conoidea Davit Gareja and Achalciche Silene italica Achalciche and Nichbisi Silene latifolia Davit Gareja and Jvari Silene otites Nichbisi Silene ruprechtii Borjomi Gorge. italica-like species Silene spergulifolia Achalciche [Stellaria media Scattered throughout] Stellaria holostea Forests in mountain areas – in flower near Borjomi [Stellaria persica Lagodekhi] [Tunica stricta Borjomi area]

Celastraceae Euonymus europaeus Borjomi area Euonymus latifolia scattered in woodlands in the Lesser Caucasus Euonymus leiophloea Nichbisi Euonymus verrucosum Borjomi area

Cistaceae [Fumana arabica foothills of the Greater Caucasus & Nichbisi] Helianthemum nummularium ‘grandiflorum’ form in steppe areas

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Helianthemum orientale Achalciche and Nichbisi Helianthemum salicifiolium scattered

Convolvulaceae Convolvulus arvensis Achalciche Convolvulus lineatus Achalciche and Nichbisi

Cornaceae Cornus mas scattered in shibliak habitats Swida orientalis Achalciche and Nichbisi

Corylaceae Carpinus caucasica widespread. Probably same as Carpinus betulus. Carpinus orientalis foothills of the Greater Caucasus Corylus avellana foothills everywhere [Corylus colchica/kachetica one of these two (or both?) at Lagodekhi]

Crassulaceae Sedum caucasicum leaves noted at several localities Sedum hispanicum Achalciche Sedum pilosum Achalciche [Sedum spurium in leaf in Khada Gorge, Greater Caucasus] [Sedum stoloniferum abundant in leaf in Greater Caucasus] Sempervivum caucasicum leaves in the Greater Caucasus [Sempervivum transcaucasicum foothills of the Greater Caucasus]

Cupressaceae [Juniperus depressa alpine areas of Lagodekhi] Juniperus oblonga alpine areas of Lagodekhi. Also Gweletti Valley Juniperus oxycedrus Nichbisi limestone shibliak and Davit Gareja [Juniperus excelsa Nichbisi limestone shibliak] Juniperus sabina Gweletti Valley in Great Caucasus

Cyperaceae Carex carophyllacea Khada Gorge Carex digitata woodlands along the Georgian Military Highway Carex divisa woodlands along the Georgian Military Highway

Dioscoreaceae Tamus communis scattered

Dipscacaceae Cephalaria gigantea in last year’s seed in Borjomi area, leaves in Greater Caucasus

Elaeagnaceae Elaeagnus angustifolius scattered along roadsides etc Hippophae rhamnoides common in valley bottoms throughout

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Ephedraceae Ephedra procera scattered, e.g. Davit Gareja steppe, Borjomi Gorge

Empetraceae Empetrum caucasicum in leaf in areas around Kazbegi, Greater Caucasus

Ericaceae Rhododendron caucasicum in flower in the Gweletti Valley, Greater Caucasus Rhododendron luteum in flower along the Georgian Military Highway Vaccinium arctostaphylos Bakuriani and Zekaris Pass Vaccinium myrtilus in flower in the Darial Gorge Vaccinium vitis-idaea in flower in the Gweletti Valley, Greater Caucasus

Equisetaceae Equisetum arvense Scattered along mountains streams etc Equisetum fluviatile wet areas in Greater Caucasus Equisetum hyemale wet banks and streamsides in Bakuriani area Equisetum palustre marshy spots along the Georgian Military Highway Equisetum ramosissimum Bakuriani area Equisetum telmeteia Riversides in the Great Caucasus Equisetum variegatum Snostkali Valley

Euphorbiaceae [Euphorbia boissieriana foothills of the Greater Caucasus] Euphorbia glareosa Davit Gareja Euphorbia macroceras hairy tall species of wet areas in forests throughout with brown- maroon ’flowers’ Euphorbia pontica ‘rigida’ group. Fleshy glaucous leaves and reddish towards top of plant. Dry steppe slopes in forest above Borjomi etc. Euphorbia seguieriana Davit Gaerja Euphorbia villosa foothills of the Greater Caucasus, woodlands around Bakuriani

Fabaceae Argyrolobium biebersteinii Widespread on cliffs and rocky slopes in all mountain areas. Sub-shrub with orange and yellow flowers Astragalus brachycarpus Scattered at low and mid levels. Purple flowers, slightly shrubby – rather like cancellatus? Astragalus cf. fabaceus low green-flowered species. Davit Gareja Astragalus fragrans pale yellow flowers. Khada Gorge and Borjomi area. Also Abastumani and Zekaris Pass Astragalus kazbeki endemic to Kazbegi area. Pretty white and pink low growing species Astragalus kemulariae scattered in Lesser Caucasus Astragalus kozlowskyi Javakheti Plateau Astragalus mollis Jvari Church, Achalciche and Nichbisi Astragalus troizkii Jvari Church and Davit Gareja Astragalus xiphidium pink flowers. Davit Gareja Cercis siliquastrum Judas Tree. Scattered throughout at mid-levels Colutea lutea Lovely orange flowered broom scattered in steppe and shibliak areas Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 20

Coronilla balansae Borjomi and Achalciche, also Nichbisi Coronilla orientalis woodlands along the Georgian Military Highway Genista flagellaris dwarf species on limestone shibliak near Nichbisi Hedysarum elegans stunning species with large heads of red flowers. Between Achalciche and Abastumani Hedysarum sericeum beautiful red flowered species with large flowers in the limestone shibliak near Nichbisi Lathyrus aphaca Achalciche Lathyrus cicera Davit Gareja Lathyrus laxiflorus scattered in woodlands Lathyrus miniatus Sometimes treated as a subspecies of rotundifolius. Jvari Church Lathyrus pratensis in leaf, Georgian Military Highway Lathyrus roseus scattered in woodlands [Lathyrus sphaerica scattered] Lathyrus vernus woodlands around Bakuriani – in flower lower down Medicago dzhawakhetica mat-forming. Roadside gravels on the Javakheti Pass Medicago lupulina scattered in ruderal habitats Onobrychis angustifolium scattered. Pale pink forms at Davit Gareja and Jvari Church [Onobrychis kachetica near the airport hotel! Fine species] Onobrychis meschetica pretty orange/cream flowers. Between Achalciche and Abastumani Onobrychis petraea Igoeti area [Onobrychis radiata large pale flowered species with orange-lined petals – only noted from vehicle as we drove near Gori] Oxytropis dasypoda beautiful purple-blue species in Darial Gorge, Greater Caucasus. In 2010 had finished there but was seen flowering Truso/Terek junction and also in the Juta Valley Oxytropis owerinii pale yellow flowered. Gweletti Valley, Greater Caucasus Robinia pseudacacia scattered in lowlands – planted Sophora alopecuroides In leaf, Achalciche Spartium junceum common along roadsides around Tbilisi [Trifolium ambiguum Igoeti area] Trifolium caucasicum large-flowered species, Abastumani Trifolium pratense scattered Trifolium repens scattered. Several other Trifoliums noted Trigonella coerulescens Davit Gareja and Achalciche. Blue fenugreek Vicia alpestris/purpurea fine purple alpine in the Juta Valley Vicia (Orobus) aureus woodlands along the Georgian Highway, first flowers Vicia balansae in bud in the Darial Gorge Vicia faba near Signakhi. Davit Gareja and Jvari Church [Vicia grandiflora Davit Gareja] [Vicia hirsuta Borjomi area] Vicia lutea Davit Gareja Vicia pannonica Achalciche and Nichbisi, also Borjomi Gorge. Creamy-white flowers Vicia peregrina single purple flowers. Looked like this species but apparently not recorded in Georgia – synonym? Achalciche Vicia sativa foothills, roadsides etc Vicia truncatula woodlands at lower levels in Greater Caucasus. Also Nichbisi Vicia villosa? roadsides, Nichbisi etc

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Fagaceae Fagus orientalis widespread and locally dominant Quercus hartwissiana Achalciche and Borjomi Gorge Quercus (petraea) iberica widespread – low to mid levels Quercus longipes scattered in Lagodekhi at lower levels. Also Nichbisi Quercus macranthera locally dominant at higher levels in both mountain areas

Fumariaceae Corydalis alexeenkoana Corydalis angustifolia Pale yellow or almost white with few flowers – Zekaris Pass Corydalis caucasica Zekaris Pass Fumaria asepala Jvari Church area Fumaria densiflora Paratatsemi

Gentianaceae Gentiana angulosus widespread and locally abundant in alpine grasslands Gentiana aquatica scattered in alpine turf throughout. Tiny flowers Gentiana cruciata leaves only. Foothills in both areas Gentiana pyrenaica Snostkali Valley and Javakheti Plateau

Geraniaceae Erodium armenum pretty species in the Gareja Steppe Erodium cicutarium scattered [Erodium moschatum Lagodekhi] Geranium columbinum Igoeti. Jvari Church Geranium lucidum Lagodekhi village. Scattered at lower levels [Geranium molle scattered throughout] Geranium pyrenaicum Igoeti. Lesser Caucasus [Geranium purpureum high forests in Great Caucasus] Geranium pusillum Davit Gareja Geranium renardii leaves on the Zekaris Pass and in Greater Caucasus Geranium robertianum forests in all areas Geranium rotundifolium Davit Gareja

Globulariaceae Globularia trichosantha Khada Valley and limestone shibliak near Nichbisi

Grossulariaceae Ribes alpinum Javakheti Plateau Ribes biebersteiniana Gudauri [Ribes orientale widespread in shrubby and wooded areas]

Hydrangeaceae [Philadelphus caucasicus in leaf at Lagodekhi]

Iridaceae Iris furcata a beautiful purple dwarf form in flower in the Darial Gorge and Juta valley

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Iris pumila Davit Gareja Iris sibirica leaves noted in Dariel Gorge

Juglandaceae Juglans regia Scattered – in all mountain areas. Jvari [Pterocarya fraxinifolia in lower forests at Lagodekhi]

Labiatae Acinos arvensis Davit Gareja, Nichbisi etc Ajuga chamaepitys occasional in steppe areas Ajuga genevensis common in foothills throughout Ajuga orientalis widespread [Ajuga reptans scattered] Eremostachys iberica scattered in steppe and shibliak zones Glechoma hederacea scattered throughout Lamium aplexicaule Davit Gareja Lamium album widespread Lamium purpureum mostly villages Marrubium vulgare Achalciche Nepeta musinii scattered, steppes – small blue species Phlomis pungens leaves on the Davit Gareja Salvia aethiopis leaves on the Davit Gareja Salvia gareji beautiful large pink flowered species named after and endemic to Davit Gareja. Not in flower in 2010 [Salvia limbata white and yellow flowered. Nichbisi] Salvia nemorosa Achalciche Salvia virgata in bud on the Gareja steppe Salvia viridis Davit Gareja and Achalciche Scutellaria orientalis widespread in low and mid levels. Subspecies sosnowskyi in Nichbisi limestone shibliak and Achalciche Sideritis montana Davit Gareja Stachys atherocalyx Nichbisi and Borjomi Teucrium polium Nichbisi Thymus collinus steppe areas. Another Thymus species in Borjomi Valley [Thymus tiflisiensis Davit Gareja]

Liliaceae Asparagus officinalis scattered at lower levels Asparagus verticillatus Davit Gareja Aspodeline lutea Borjomi Gorge Bellevalia paradoxa alpine slopes above Bakuriani Leopoldia caucasica Davit Gareja [Colchicum speciosus leaves abundant in Zekaris pass and Javakheti Plateau Colchicum szovitsii Javakheti Plateau ,Tabatskouri Convallaria majus Zekaris pass Fritillaria collina widespread and sometimes abundant in the High Caucasus Fritillaria latifolia abundant fine flowers on the Zekaris Pass and Cross Pass Fritillaria orientalis Several in fruit between Kazbegi and Russian border Gagea anisanthos single hollow basal leaf. Scattered in high areas of Greater Caucasus. 2010 seen above Bakuriani

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[Gagea caroli-kochii solitary narrow (only 1mm) basal leaf longer than inflorescence, cauline leaves 2-3, verticillate, to 3mm broad, glabrous, umbel of 1-3 flowers, pedicels shorter than flowers, tepals small (to 9mm), narrow, yellow with hyaline margin, pale green on underside, acuminate, villous at tip. On rocks in Lagodekhi] [Gagea chanae Single flat basal leaf to 4mm wide longer than 2-4 flowered umbellate inflorescence. Cauline leaves 3, verticillate, all villose at margin. Quite common in high areas around Bakuriani and Zekaris] Gagea charadze tall flat basal leaf. scattered in the Darial Gorge, Gweletti Valley and Kuru Mountain in the Greater Caucasus. In 2010 only on the Javakheti Plateau Gagea commutata squat rather coarse Gagea with two basal leaves flattened but narrow to 2mm, cauline leaves 3-5, verticillate and tepals very long acuminate. In seed at Jvari Church and Gareja steppe Gagea germainae flat basal leaf, tallish species with pale flowers. Gweletti Valley and Darial Gorge, Greater Caucasus. In 2010 on the Javakheti Plateau Gagea glacialis I now believe in this species again! Locally quite common near snow especially in Lagodekhi. In 2010 Javakheti [Gagea lutea tall wide flat basal leave much exceeding inflorescence, often glaucous. 3-10 flowered umbel, tepals large, yellow with white margins, outer wider than inner] [Gagea stipitata single linear (to 1.5mm wide) basal leaf, , cauline leaves alternate, roughly equalt to inflorescence, cymose inflorescence, 3- 10+ flowers, tepals to 10mm, narrow, yellow (pale), green on underside. Davit Gareja] Gagea sulfurea hollow basal leaves, tepals large, obtuse and bright golden yellow. Widespread and common throughout the mountains Gagea taurica five-angled leaves, acuminate tepals. Scattered on dry bluffs on the Javakheti Plateau and the Zekaris Pass Lilium georgicum aka Lilium ponticum. In bud in the Darial Gorge between Kazbegi and Russian border, Lilium szovitsianum Common in bud above Bakuriani, Zekaris pass and Kharagauli Lloydia serotina nice colony in the Darial Gorge and Truso/Terek Junction Muscari pallens curious white flowered species scattered in the Darial Gorge in the Greater Caucasus, also in the Snostkali Valley Muscari sosnowskyi scattered on slopes between Bakhuriani and the Javakheti Plateau, also Zekaris Pass Muscari szovitsianum in scrub around the Jvari Church and other lowland sites – in fruit Ornithogalum balansae scattered in the Greater Caucasus. Probably this species on the Javakheti Pass and possibly also Zekaris Pass and Gudauri [Ornithogalum magnum impressively large flowered species at Nichbisi] Ornithogalum schmalhausenii Gweletti Valley however the species limits on this group are poorly known, poorly differentiated, or both! Paris incompleta in abundant flower in forests below Bakuriani,and Aragvi gorge Polygonatum glaberrinum widespread Polygonatum multiflorum widespread Puschkinia scilloides Juta Valley

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Scilla rosenii widespread in huge patches in meadows and forests above Bakuriani. Scilla sibirica subspecies ‘caucasica’. to 10cm tall, several brilliant blue open flowers. Abundant on the Zekaris Pass – truly stunning! Veratrum lobelianum young leaves in many areas in the mountains

Linaceae Linum austriacum blue flowers. Steppe areas Linum bienne smaller blue flowers. Nichbisi Linum mucronatum bright yellow flowers. Nichbisi

Lycopodiaceae Huperzia selago Shining Clubmoss. Gweletti Valley

Malvaceae Alcea rugosa leaves at Jvari Althaea hirsuta Marsh-Mallow. Gareja steppe [Malva sylvetris roadsides] [Malva negelctus Lagodekhi Village] Malva parviflorus Davit Gareja

Oleaceae Fraxinus excelsior Locally abundant in Lagodekhi. Scattered along main river valleys Jasmium fruticans scattered Ligustricum vulgare Borjomi Gorge

Orchidaceae Anacamptis pyramidalis Above Borjomi Cephalanthera caucasica Above Borjomi. [Cephalanthera kotschyana Above Borjomi Cephalanthera longifolia scattered throughout Dactylorhiza caucasica Widespread in suitable habitat Dactylorhiza euxina Especially common around White Agavri valley area Dactylorhiza flavescens yellow and pink forms in good flower on the Zekaris Pass. And Abastumani Dactylorhiza urvilliana Kharagauli Neottia nidus-avis Kharagauli Orchis caucasica In fruit at Nichbisi Orchis coriophora Above Borjomi Orchis pallens on way to Javakheti Pass. Orchis pinetorum (mascula) Dariel Gorge, Zekaris Pass Orchis simia Scattered locally common Orchis stevenii Superb specimens above Borjomi Platanthera chlorantha Above Borjomi Steveniella satyroides Above Borjomi

Orobanchaceae Orobanche alba Jvari Church and Nichbisi Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 25

Orobanche caryophyllacea Jvari Church and Nichbisi Orobanche gracilis Khada Gorge, Greater Caucasus Orobanche lutea? Jvari Church Orobanche minor? Jvari Church Orobanche purpurea Jvari Church and Nichbisi Orobanche ramosa noted by Jvari Church and on the Gareja steppe Phelypaea coccinea in bud at Davit Gareja and in flower in the limestone shibliak near Nichbisi

Oxalidaceae Oxalis acetosella in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus [Oxalis corniculata Lagodekhi village]

Paeoniaceae Paeonia caucasica 2 sites above Borjomi. In seed only in 2012 Paeonia steveniana 2 sites around Bakuriani magnificent display of huge flowers Paeonia tenuifolia Igoeti – in fruit!

Papaveraceae Chelidonium majus widespread Glaucium corniculatum Jvari Church. Gareja steppe and Achalciche Papaver arenarium scattered. Bright red with large black cross inside flower. Georgian Military Highway and Nichbisi Papaver argenome Gareja steppe Papaver commutatum scattered throughout Papaver dubium en route to Lagodekhi. Jvari Church Papaver fugax large orange flowers, many on a head, one opening at a time. Dry hillside above Borjomi and Achalciche [Papaver hybridum Jvari Church] Papaver rhoeas roadsides along the Mtkvari River

Pinaceae Abies nordmanniana Widespread in Lesser Caucasus, less frequent than Picea though Picea orientalis Widespread in Lesser Caucasus. Also a population near Gudauri Pinus kochiana Scattered in forests of Lesser Caucasus. Occasional patches right on treeline, also some in Greater Caucasus Pinus nigra Scattered (often planted)

Plantaginaceae Plantago lanceolata scattered Plantago major ruderal habitats [Plantago media in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus] Plantago ovata Jvari Church

Polygalaceae Polygala alpicola scattered in the Greater Caucasus, also noted on the Zekaris Pass. Dwarf blue species Polygala amoenissima near Pasanauri in the Greater Caucasus. Also Bakuriani area

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Polygala anatolica or papilionacea? In fact I’m not at all sure of the differences between anatolica, papilionacea, amoenissima and transcaucasicus! Polygala hohenackeriana small pale species with odd-shaped flowers. Gareja steppe Polygala transcaucasicus Davit Gareja, also Jvari Church and Achalciche

Polygonaceae Atraphaxis caucasica Jvari Church Rumex obtusifolius scattered in ruderal habitats [Rumex pulcher Signakhi]

Primulaceae Androsace chamaejasme some nice plants in the Khada Valley, Greater Caucasus, also noted at the junction of the Truso/Terek Valleys Androsace intermedia small pink flowered umbels. Rocky bluffs on the Javakheti Pass Androsace raddeana slightly more robust pink flowered umbels. Dry turf on the Zekaris Pass Androsace septentrionalis Darial Gorge Androsace villosa scattered in dry alpine slopes throughout The taxonomy of the following Primulas is debatable. Certainly there are three that could be subsumed into algida, at least four possible subspecies/variants of the Oxlips Primula elatior, and two possible subspecies/variants of Primula vulgaris, for the moment we’ve maintained the taxa listed in the Georgian Flora. Primula algida high grasslands and wet areas throughout the Greater and Lesser Caucasus Primula amoena a pink-purple or white ‘oxslip’ common in alpine grasslands and open birchwoods in Great Caucasus. We saw in flower in the Darial Gorge, Gweletti Valley and many parts of the Snostkali and Juta Valleys this year Primula auriculata umbel of pink flowers. Common along streams on the Zekaris Pass Primula cordifolia like a large leaved (leaves are distinctively cordate at the base) pale flowered lax form of ruprechtii. In flower in the Darial Gorge. Not sure what the similar plants above Bakuriani are? Primula darialica algida-like species endemic to Truso Valley region. Differs little and may be just a variety of the previous species Primula farinifolia? the auriculata types noted in the White Arigwi Valley and Juta Valley were very squat and may have been this species? Primula macrocalyx beautiful bright yellow ‘cowslip’. Widespread in montane woods and meadows throughout Primula meyeri stunning deep purple flowers in an umbel on a grey hairy stem. Just a few (including apparent hybrids with Primula pseudelatior) above Bakuriani Primula pallasii elegant ‘oxslip’, tall and with many creamy flowers. Locally common in woods near Bakuriani Primula pseudelatior common pale yellow oxslip of alpine areas around Bakuriani and Zekaris Pass – not one hundred per cent sure of the distinction between this and Primula ruprechtii? Primula ruprechtii beautiful pale yellow flowered ‘oxslip’ common in alpine grasslands throughout Primula sibthorpii pretty deep pink ‘primrose’ abundant in woods below Bakuriani – just the last flowers seen this year Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 27

[Primula woronowii mauve ‘primrose‘ scattered in Lagodekhi where a few still in flower in the higher woods]

Pteridophyta Adiantum capillus-veneris cliffs in Tbilisi! Asplenium adiantum-nigrum common in Lagodekhi. Woods along the Georgian Military Highway [Asplenium hausknechktii cliffs in the Arigwy Valley in the Greater Caucasus] Asplenium septentrionale scattered throughout Asplenium trichomanes widespread Asplenium viride scattered in the Greater Caucasus Asplenium woronowii Khada Gorge, Greater Caucasus Athyrium distentifolium Lagodekhi. Probably this species on the Zekaris Pass Athyrium felix-femina Lady Fern. Gweletti Valley, Greater Caucasus Cystopteris fragilis widespread Cryptogramma crispa tufts in screes in Gweletti Valley and the Darial Gorge in the Great Caucasus [Dryopteris affinis scattered in mountains] [Dryopteris alexeenkoana aka Dryopteris dilitata. scattered in mountains] Dryopteris caucasica scattered in the Greater Caucasus Dryopteris felix-mas Male Fern. Gweletti Valley, Greater Caucasus Dryopterus oreades scattered in high mountains Gymnocarpium robertianum Borjomi area. Khada Gorge, Greater Caucasus Matteucia struthiopteris foothills of Great and Lesser Caucasus where locally abundant Oreopteris limbosperma woodlands along the Georgian Military Highway Phyllitis scolopendrion Ccommon in wetter forests Phegopteris connectilis Borjomi area. Also Khada Gorge and Darial Gorge, Greater Caucasus Polystichum aculeatum widely scattered, though not common Polystichum braumii common in forests in all mountain areas Polystichum lonchitis Truso Valley, Greater Caucasus. In 2010 only on the Zekaris Pass [Polystichum setiferum foothills of Great Caucasus and Lagodekhi] Polystichum woronowii Paratatsemi Polypodium australe scattered throughout Polypodium vulgare widespread Pteridium aquilinum mostly Lesser Caucasus Woodsia alpina rocks at the Truso/Terek Valley junction Woodsia ilvensis rocks at the Truso/Terek Valley junction, also above Bakuriani

Ranunculaceae Adonis aestivalis Davit Gareja Adonis flammea Achalciche and Nichbisi Adonis parviflora? Jvari Church Anemone caucasicus small blue alpine species. Same as Turkish Anemone blanda? Widespread in damper areas near snow melt – some fine mixed white and blue populations on the Zekaris Pass Anemone fasciculata conspecific with Turkish Anemome narcissiflorus? Scattered on dryish slopes in both mountain areas. Mostly white flowered, some with pink flowers seen (can be red!). This year reddest ones were above Bakuriani Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 28

[Anemone ranunculoides Yellow flowered. Common in Lagodekhi] Anemone speciosa Yellow-flowered. Very similar to ranunculoides. Flowering in the Darial and Khada Gorges by late snow patches. Greater Caucasus Caltha palustris widespread in mountains Consolida orientalis Achalciche [Ficaria calthifolia local form of the Celandine! Lagodekhi] Helleborus caucasicus presumably the same as orientalis of NE Turkey. Widespread Pulsatilla albana Zekaris Pass. This and Pulsatilla georgica may be conspecific Pulsatilla georgica dry slopes above Bakuriani Pulsatilla violacea similar habitats in the Great Caucasus. A richer-coloured and larger flowered species – some stunning displays in the Snostkali Valley in 2010 Ranunculus arvensis Jvari Church Ranunculus buhsei damp forests below Bakuriani, also along Georgian Military Highway Ranunculus caucasicus leaves with petiolate central segment. Greater and Lesser Caucasus [Ranunculus chius small, leaves trisect, glabrous to hairy, flower stalks thickening in fruit. Flowers only 3-6mm. Wet ground around Lagodekhi Village] Ranunculus illyricus Leaves trisect with very long undivided lobes. Covered in silvery hairs. Signakhi area. Also Gareja steppe and Jvari Ranunculus grandiflorus Signakhi area and probably elsewhere in steppe. Achalciche Ranunculus illyricus large pale yellow flowers and silver leaves appearing undivided or with three long thin segments. Common in lower areas Ranunculus ledebouri squat alpine celandine. A few on the Cross Pass, Greater Caucasus [Ranunculus marginatus round heart shaped leaves, broadly winged at base, central leaflet stalked, hairy, deep golden yellow flowers to 11mm. Wet ground around Lagodekhi Village] [Ranunculus muricatus glabrous with kidney-shaped leaves 3-7 lobed. Petals as long as semi-reflexed sepals. Wet areas. Woodlands in the Alazani Valley ] Ranunculus polyanthemos meadows and woodland edge in all areas. Meadow Buttercup like species Ranunculus oreophilus alpine species noted in Arigvi, Gweletti and Juta Valleys in the Greater Caucasus Ranunculus oxyspermus frequent in steppe areas Ranunculus repens scattered throughout Ranunculus sarduous 3-lobed basal leaves, hairy, often shiny, mid lobe larger than others and toothed. Flowers pale yellow, large, sepals reflexed. Appeared to be this species in lower meadows in Bakuriani area [Ranunculus sceleratus Celery-leaved Butercup. Almost hairless, robust, leaves three- lobed, many flowers in branched clusters. Marshy areas. Woodlands in the Alazani Valley] Ranunculus tripartitus white-flowered aquatic species – Gareja steppe Trollius patulus In flower in the Darial Gorge in the Greater Caucasus and scattered in the Bakuriani area. Presumably the same as ranunculoides of NE Turkey

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Resedaceae Reseda lutea scattered in lower areas Reseda luteola noted on roadsides

Rhamnaceae Paliurus spina-christi locally dominant in shibliak Rhamnus cathartica Jvari Church Rhamnus cordata Darial Gorge, Greater Caucasus Rhamnus depressa extraordinary alpine ‘tree’ just a few inches high and growing in steep screes below the Cross Pass Rhamnus pallasii steppe areas

Rosaceae Alchemilla sp Several species noted Amelanchier rotundifolia scattered throughout [Cerasus divaricata Lagodekhi] Cerasus incana Davit Gareja and Jvari Church [Cerasus silvestris Lagodekhi] Cotoneaster integerrimus Snostkali Valley Cotoneaster meyeri rather tree-like! Jvari Church and Nichbisi Cotoneaster nummularifolia scattered throughout Crataegus microphylla Igoeti Crataegus orientalis Achalciche and Nichbisi Crataegus pentagyna Igoeti Cydonia oblonga Achalciche and Nichbisi Dryas caucasica in leaf in various high places in the Great Caucasus Duchesnia indica wild strawberry-like. Various lowlands sites Fragaria vesca scattered Geum rivale damp woodlands throughout Geum urbanum scattered throughout Malus orientalis scattered in all forested areas Mespilus germanica scattered throughout at low-mid levels Potentilla caucasica rather common in alpine grasslands in the Greater Caucasus, e.g. Gweletti Valley [Potentilla gelida Truso Valley, Greater Caucasus] Potentilla micrantha white-flowered strawberry-like species. Scattered in the Greater Caucasus Potentilla recta roadsides [Potentilla ruprechtii Aragvi Valley, Greater Caucasus] Poterium lasiocarpa scattered Prunus avium mid-level forests Prunus padus Khada Gorge Prunus spinosus Blackthorn. Khada Gorge Pyracantha coccinea woodlands along the Georgian Military Highway Pyrus demetrii/georgica Davit Gareja steppe Pyrus caucasica forming sizeable trees in the Bakuriani area Pyrus salicifolius most steppe and shibliak areas Rosa canina Nichbisi Rosa pimpinellifolia Scattered at low-mid levels [Sanguisorba major Igoeti]

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Sibbaldia parviflora Scattered in high areas in the Greater Caucasus Sibbaldia semiglabra glabrous species. Kuru Mountain and Juta Valley Sorbus aucuparia Lagodekhi and frequent in the Lesser Caucasus Sorbus graeca Nichbisi Sorbus hajastanii Nichbisi Sorbus torminalis Nichbisi Spirea hypericifolia scattered in shibliak communities

Rubiaceae Asperula arvensis blue-flowered. Scattered throughout at mid-low levels Asperula caucasica Jvari Church Asperula glomerata Achalciche and Nichbisi Galium aparine scattered Galium odoratum widespread in woods Galium verum Nichbisi and Gareja stppe – in leaf Cruciata laevipes foothills throughout

Rutaceae Dictamnus caucasicus spectacular Burning Bush scattered throughout in shibliak Haplophyllum armenum Nichbisi

Salicaceae Populus canescens Georgian Military Highway Populus nigra river valleys Populus tremula Scattered – locally common in high mountains [Populus X euphratica commonly planted in and near villages] Salix caprea scattered [Salix elburzensis Darial Gorge]

Santalaceae Thesium brachyphyllum? probably this species at Achalciche and Nichbisi Thesium procumbens Davit Gareja? Jvari Church

Saxifragaceae Chrysosplenium alternifolium widespread Saxifraga cartilaginea scattered on rocks on both mountain areas. In leaf only Saxifraga cymbalaria Lagodekhi. Borjomi woodlands in wet areas Saxifraga desoulavyi ‘juniperifolia’ type. In Khada Gorge and Aragvi Valley in Great Caucasus growing on sharp shale cliffs Saxifraga exarata Truso/Terek junction – in leaf Saxifraga kolenatiana ‘cartilaginea’ type with red flowers. Rosettes in the Darial Valley, on serpentenite, and in flower in upper Snostkali Valley, both Great Caucasus Saxifraga moschata Truso/Terek junction – in leaf Saxifraga repanda tall forest species of ‘meadow saxifrage’ group. Borjomi area Saxifraga pseudolaevis another of the ‘juniperifolia’ saxifrages. Frequent in the Kazbegi and Truso areas Saxifraga scleropoda Truso/Terek junction – in leaf Saxifraga sibirica Lagodekhi. Juta Valley

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Scrophulariaceae Celsia orientalis scattered in shibliak communities Lathraea squamaria common in Lagodekhi and scattered in the Greater Caucasus Linaria genistifolia in leaf on the Davit Gareja Linaria simplex steppe areas. Tiny single yellow flowers [Melampyrum arvense Lower parts of Great Caucasus] [Parentucella latifolia Lagodekhi] Pedicularis acmodonta in flower in the Darial Gorge Pedicularis armena small pale species. Javakheti Plateau and Zekaris Pass Pedicularis eriantha probably the same as Pedicularis comosa. Usual looking yellow form along the Georgian Military Highway and a yellow form with brown on in the Lesser Caucasus Pedicularis wilhelmsiana Javakheti where the usual dingy yellow/red form and Zekaris Pass where a rather nice red/purple form Scrophularia chrysantha scattered in alpine meadows of the Lesser Caucasus Scrophularia diffusa Darial Gorge Scrophularia grossheimii Darial Gorge Scrophularia ilwensis Achalciche Scrophularia rutifolia Achalciche and Nichbisi [Verbascum formosum beautiful large flowered species. Davit Gareja] Verbascum laxum scattered in the Lesser Caucasus Verbascum phoeniceum scattered at low-mid levels [Veronica beccabunga Lagodekhi] Veronica chamaedrys scattered Veronica filiformis locally common in high areas Veronica gentianoides scattered throughout in mid-altitude damp meadows Veronica liwanensis beautiful species on dry steppe between Borjomi and Bakuriani and in the Borjomi Gorge Veronica multifida scattered at low-mid levels throughout [Veronica officinale Borjomi] Veronica petraea pretty dwarf alpine in Truso Valley with brilliant blue pink- eyed flowers Veronica peduncularis like chamaedrys but rangier and different colour flowers. Scattered throughout [Veronica serpyllifolia Lagodekhi and Greater Caucasus] [Veronica tournefortii Igoeti]

Solanaceae Atropa belladonna scattered - in leaf Hyoscyamus niger widespread Physochliana orientalis strange purple-belled species on cliffs in the Darial Gorge, Greater Caucasus

Thymelaeaceae Daphne glomerata scattered on dry slopes in Great Caucasus Daphne mezereon very occasional throughout except on the Zekaris Pass where common! [Daphne pontica Bakuriani area] Daphne transcaucasica bushy white-flowered highly fragrant species. Nichbisi

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Tiliaceae Tilia caucasica Lagodekhi. Scattered

Typhaceae Typha laxmannii river margins in the Greater Caucasus foothills. Also Davit Gareja

Ulmaceae [Celtis caucasica Davit Gareja steppe & Jvari Church] Ulmus elliptica Davit Gareja steppe Ulmus minor Nichbisi

Urticaceae Urtica dioica widespread

Valerianaceae Valeriana alliarifolia in bud around Bakuriani Valeriana alpestris in bud in the Juta Valley Valeriana officinalis scattered Centranthus longifolius on cliffs in the Borjomi area

Violaceae Viola alba Javakheti Plateau and Zekaris Pass. Not white! Viola arvensis scattered [Viola canina Borjomi area] Viola caucasica aka Viola biflora subspecies caucasica. Yellow ‘rock’ violet. Gweletti Valley, Darial Gorge and Juta Valley in Great Caucasus Viola ignobilis? Marbled spur, same colour as flower, flowers small, leaves heart shaped, crenate. Khada Gorge and Truso/Terek junction, both Greater Caucasus Viola kitabeliana steppe areas Viola kupfferi fine purple and yellow pansy (sometimes considered a form of Viola tricolor) in forests around Bakuriani and Abastumani Viola mirabilis? forests below Bakuriani Viola montana? Species with a long clavate spur, stipules long ciliate, petals long, strongly bearded, dark ring round pale centre of flower, leaves heart shaped. Khada Gorge, Greater Caucasus. May by a synonym of Viola canina? Viola odorata locally abundant especially in Lagodekhi. A dark purple variant throughout [Viola occulta tiny flowers. Nichbisi] Viola oreades syn. Viola altaica. Scattered on the Javakheti Plateau and Zekaris Pass. Mostly cream or yellow, some blue. Large flowers. [Viola reichenbachiana scattered throughout] [Viola riviniana noted only in the higher parts of the Greater Caucasus] Viola sieheana Khada Gorge, Gudauri and common in the Bakuriani and Abastumani areas Viola somchetica Common in Great Caucasus. Very pretty species with short lower petal making the face look round

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Viola suavis Achalciche. Blue flowers with a white centre

Zygophyllaceae Zygophyllum fabago in leaf at Jvari Church

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Systematic List Number 2 Birds

Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis Tabatskuri Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Tabatskuri,Paravani Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Lake near Davit Gareja Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Scattered around Tbilisi Great white Egret Egretta alba Tabatskuri Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Tabatskuri Black Stork Ciconia nigra Nr Vardzia White Stork Ciconia ciconia Tabatskuri Pochard Aythya ferina Paravani Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Paravani Velvet Scoter Melanitta fusca Tabatskuri Black Kite Milvus migrans Tabatskuri Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus Truso gorge,Dariel Gorge Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Azagri valley Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus widespread in low numbers. Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Gareja Steppe and scattered Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Scattered Common Buzzard Buteo buteo widespread. Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus Scattered Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos Juta valley Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus Scattered Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Scattered. Peregrine Falco peregrinus Truso/Terek junction area Caucasian Blackcock Tetrao mlokosiewiczi Bakuriani. Stepantsminda Corncrake Crex crex Gudauri,Dariel gorge Coot Fulica atra Lake Nr Davit Gareja,Paravani Little ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Juta Valley Ruff Philomachus pugnax Lake Nr Davit Gareja Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 1 Truso/Terek junction area, Juta valley Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus Paravani Yellow-legged Herring Gull Larus a.cachinnans Vardzia Armenian Gull Larus (argentatus) armeniacus Javakheti Plateau Common Tern Sterna hirundo Paravani Woodpigeon Columba palumbus Nr Borjomi Collared Dove Streptopelia decaoto Nr Vardzia Cuckoo Cuculus canorus widespread Little Owl Athene noctua Gareja Steppe Common Swift Apus apus widespread. European Bee-eater Merops apiaster widespread Roller Coracias garrulus widespread Hoopoe Upupa epops scattered. Green Woodpecker Picus viridis scattered Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius Above Bakuriani Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopus major locally common in forests. Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra Gareja Steppe Crested Lark Galerida cristata Gareja Steppe Skylark Alauda arvensis scattered. Shore Lark Eremophila alpestris Javakheti Plateau

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Sand Martin Riparia riparia Davit Gareja Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris widespread. Swallow Hirundo rustica widespread. House Martin Delichon urbica widespread. Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis scattered Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta widespread in mountains. Black-headed Wagtail Motacilla flava feldegg Tabatskuri Grey-headed Wagtail Motacilla flava superciliaris Aragvi Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea scattered along most hill streams. White Wagtail Motacilla alba widespread. Dipper Cinclus cinclus scattered. Wren Troglodytes troglodytes widespread Dunnock Prunella modularis uncommon. Robin Erithacus rubecula Once only! Karagauli NP Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos heard only Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Quite frequent in high mountain areas. Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus Widespread and locally common. Whinchat Saxicola rubetra widely scattered. Stonechat Saxicola torquata scattered. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Davit Gareja Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Scattered Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis Scattered in mountains. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius Vardzia and day 2 Ring Ouzel Turdus torquatus Scattered in mountains. Blackbird Turdus merula widespread. Song Thrush Turdus philomelos scattered uncommon Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus Scattered Cetti’s Warbler Cettia cetti between Archaliche and Abastumani Savi’s Warbler Locustella luscinioides Lake Nr Davit Gareja heard by Peter Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus Lake near Davit Gareja Great reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus Lake near Davit Gareja Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida Day 11 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Bakuriani Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis scattered throughout. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla widespread Green Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus widespread Caucasian Chiffchaff Phyllscopus lorenzii Cross pass Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata scattered. Coal Tit Parus ater scattered Blue Tit Parus caeruleus scattered Great Tit Parus major widespread. Krüper’s Nuthatch Sitta krueperi 1 only Agavri Valley Common Treecreeper Certhia familiaris Bakuriani and Zekaris pass Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus Gudauri Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio widespread. Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor scattered. Locally common Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator Davit Gareja Jay Garrulus glandarius widespread. Magpie Pica pica scattered. Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax gracilis common in higher areas. Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax common in high areas esp Juta valley

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Jackdaw Corvus monedula noted in the Gareja Steppe Rook Corvus frugilegus near Tbilisi Hooded Crow Corvus (corone) cornix widespread. Raven Corvus corax widespread. Rose-coloured Starling Sturnus roseus Tabatskouri Starling Sturnus vulgaris scattered House Sparrow Passer domesticus around habitation. Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Vardzia Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia Davit Gareja Snow Finch Montifringilla nivalis 1 only Cross Pass Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs widespread. Red-fronted Serin Serinus pusillus Dariel gorge area, Zekaris Pass Serin Serinus serinus 1 at Bakuriani Greenfinch Carduelis chloris widely scattered. Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis widespread. Siskin Carduelis spinosa Zekaris pass Linnet Carduelis cannabina scattered. Twite Carduelis flavirostris Gudauri Common Crossbill Loxia curvirostra Abastumani. Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus widespread. Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula scattered,few only Rock Bunting Emberiza cia Zakaris pass Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana Gareja Steppe Black-headed Bunting Emberiza melanocephala scattered Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra scattered.

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Systematic List Number 3 Mammals

Red Fox Vulpes vulpes singles twice in the Greater Caucasus East Caucasian Tur Capra cylindricornis 5 seen in the Gweletti Valley on the evening trip there and 43 seen from Kazbegi itself!

Systematic List Number 4 Reptiles and Amphibians

A very incomplete list with many lizards either escaping identification or their photographs still to be checked – Georgia has quite a range of lizard species!

Bufo viridis Green Toad Juta valley Ophisaurus apodus Glass Snake common around Jvari Church.

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Systematic List Number 5 Butterflies

An indication of frequency of sightings is given by the number of days out of 12 (so including the ‘pre-tour’ to Lagodekhi) a species was seen on – thus 4/12 means a species was noted on four days during the holiday. The departure day from Tbilis is not included.

Papilionidae

Clouded Apollo Parnassius mnemosyne Zekaris valley Swallowtail Papilio machaon Scattered uncommon Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides podalirius Scattered locally common

Pieridae Green-veined White Pieris napi widespread. Large White Pieris brassicae scattered. Small White Pieris rapae scattered Orange-tip Anthocharis cardamines scattered Gruner’s Orange-tip Anthocharis gruneri Aragvi valley Clouded Yellow Colias crocea scattered Berger’s Clouded Yellow Colias alfacariensis scattered Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni scattered Wood White Leptidea sinapsis Aragvi valley

Lycaenidae

Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas scattered Sooty Copper Lycaena tiyrus Kharagauli Osiris Blue Cupido osiris Davit Gareja Little Blue Cupido minimus Jvari Church meadow Brown Argus Plebeius agestis scattered Silver-studded Blue Plebeius argus scattered Chapman’s Blue Polyommatus thersites Jvari Church meadow Common Blue Polyommatus icarus scattered

Nymphalidae Peacock Inachis io widespread Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta scattered. Camberwell Beauty Nymphalis antiopa Zakaris valley Large Tortoiseshell Nymphalis polychloros scattered Small Tortoiseshell Aglais urticae scattered. Comma Polygonia c-album Zakaris valley Glanville Fritillary Melitaea cinxia scattered.common at Kharagauli Spotted Fritillary Melitaea didyma Jvari Church meadow Marsh Fritillary Euphydryas aurina Dariel Gorge Pearl-bordered Fritillary Boloria euphrosyne Kharagauli abundant

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Satyridae Dalmatian Ringlet Protoerebia afra scattered Woodland Ringlet Erebia medusa Kharagauli Meadow Brown Maniola jurtina Common Wall Brown Lasiommata megera scattered Large Wall Brown Lasiommata maera Igoeti, road to Kharagauli Northern Wall Brown Lasiomata petropolitana Juta Valley Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria scattered Small Heath Coenonympha pamphilus scattered.

Hesperidae Dingy Skipper Erynnis tages Zekaris pass Grizzled Skipper Pyrgus malvae scattered Yellow-banded Skipper Pyrgus sidae Jvari Church meadow Tufted Marbled Skipper Carcharodus flocciferus Kharagauli

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