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The Other Catalonia

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The Other Catalonia Blackbook SLEEPING For villa rentals, most with pools, Domus Clockwise from Begur (villas from $1,620; top left: The Costa Brava; sea domusbegur.com) is the urchins at agency to know. It’s Tragamar; a run by multilingual Jardín Suite at Mas de Torrent husband-and-wife team Marta Ribot and Jimmy Van der Velden; options include a newly restored one-bedroom fisherman’s house on the beach and four- EATING AT bedroom estates with THE BEACH ocean views. On the A ten-minute drive street that rings Begur’s south of town, Toc Al central plaza, the stylish Mar (tocalmar.cat) Aiguaclara Hotel & borders the popular Restaurant (rooms from Aiguablava beach $85; hotelaiguaclara.com) and serves seafood offers ten rooms and like grilled octopus one apartment in an with potatoes romesco. 1866 residence and Reserve a table for is run by a couple lunch. Another ten who relocated from WORTH THE DETOUR minutes south by car, in Barcelona. The junior Calella de Palafrugell, suite Aiguaclara has Tragamar (tragamar.com) a private terrace and has outdoor seating a living room. A with a view of Canadell 12-minute drive west, THE OTHER SHOPPING EATING IN TOWN beach and serves Mas de Torrent (rooms For locally produced El Tapas de Begur simple salads, such as from $320; mastorrent CATALONIA cotton and linen clothes (34-61/695-5980), a tiny lentils with red pepper, .com) is a Relais & purple onion, and Châteaux property A short drive from Barcelona, that transition from bar in Plaça de la Vila beach to town, Abril with coveted outdoor feta. The ten-minute with a pretty outdoor Begur, Spain, is a summertime Boutique (34-97/262- seating under an olive walk between Calella pool, a Michelin-starred secret on the Mediterranean. 3326) specializes in tree, is a nightly party. de Palafrugell and restaurant, and a Spanish brands It has strong gin and Llafranc winds above Natura Bissé spa. On by JACKIE COOPERMAN like Pou Nou and tonics and tapas like beaches and passes art the grounds of an Magan. Espadrilles avocado purée in installations. In the hills 18th-century farm- o sophisticated American are the signature pastry cups, spinach overlooking Llafranc, house, the hotel has travelers, Spain’s northeastern fashion of the region, pies, and cod balls. One the team behind 38 suites, 10 in the Costa Brava may seem too and the small but block north and run Barcelona’s Japanese main building and the touristy to consider. But in and well-stocked Castañer by the Barreda Martin restaurants Nomo and rest in the gardens. around Begur, about an hour (castaner.com) in the family since 1978, Casa Kuo recently opened The Jardín suites have Tand a half north of the Barcelona airport, Juanita (restaurantcasa an indoor-outdoor terraces; the Naranjo nearby town of is where smart Barcelonans have vacationed Llafranc is where to juanita.es) isn’t fancy, sushi spot, Far Nomo suites, with plunge for generations. The quaint coastal town is pick up a pair. The but its eight tables (gruponomo.com). pools, afford privacy. ♦ crowned by hilltop ruins of a 16th-century brand, founded in make booking ahead castle that overlooks the central Plaça de la 1927, was put on the essential. The menu Vila, pedestrian-only streets, secluded coves map when Yves Saint showcases local along the Mediterranean Sea, and Cuban Laurent featured it catches like hake and colonial mansions built by local Begurencs in a 1960s collection. sea bass prepared in who, in the 19th century, left town for It has since expanded an oak-wood-fired Havana and returned after making small across Europe, but oven. More upscale, fortunes. There are a few hotels in Begur’s this is the company’s Rostei (rostei.com), a medieval center and some options outside first shop. short walk south, has of town, but villa rentals are the way to a two-story open-air go. The best months to visit are May, June, dining room shaded by July, and September to avoid crowds. a 200-year-old wisteria tree. Chef Josep Maria Esteban changes the menu weekly; order the duck breast if it’s available. & SPA HOTEL DE TORRENT MAS COURTESY TRAGAMAR; COURTESY STOCK; BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTER LEFT: TOP FROM CLOCKWISE 68 DEPARTURES.COM 0517_DP-BB-BegurSpain.LO.indd 68 3/30/17 3:54 PM.
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