Wave data recording program

Queensland wave climate annual summary November 2011 – October 2012

Science Delivery Department of Science, Information Technology, Innovation and the Arts Science Delivery

Prepared by Coastal Impacts Unit Science Delivery Division Department of Science, Information Technology, Innovation and the Arts PO Box 5078 Brisbane QLD 4001

© The State of (Department of Science, Information Technology, Innovation and the Arts) 2012

The Queensland Government supports and encourages the dissemination and exchange of its information. The copyright in this publication is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Australia (CC BY) licence

Under this licence you are free, without having to seek permission from DSITIA, to use this publication in accordance with the licence terms.

You must keep intact the copyright notice and attribute the State of Queensland, Department of Science, Information Technology, Innovation and the Arts as the source of the publication.

For more information on this licence visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/au/deed.en

Disclaimer

This document has been prepared with all due diligence and care, based on the best available information at the time of publication. The department holds no responsibility for any errors or omissions within this document. Any decisions made by other parties based on this document are solely the responsibility of those parties. Information contained in this document is from a number of sources and, as such, does not necessarily represent government or departmental policy.

If you need to access this document in a language other than English, please call the Translating and Interpreting Service (TIS National) on 131 450 and ask them to telephone Library Services on +61 7 3170 5725

Coastal data report No. 2012.2

ISSN 1449-7611

Acknowledgements

DSITIA acknowledges the following team members who contributed their time and effort to the preparation of this report:

Kieran Harper; John Maher; Vince Cunningham; Gary Hart; Jeff Shortell; Colin Newport; Fred Ventura; Kane Nielsen; John Ryan and Jim Waldron.

Cover photo: Abbot Point wave buoy post deployment 31 October 2012

Page ii of x Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Abstract

This summary of wave climate in Queensland is one of a series of technical wave reports prepared annually by the Coastal Impacts Unit of the Department of Science, Information Technology, Innovation and the Arts (DSITIA).

Annual wave reports supplement the reporting ability of DSITIA’s Coastal Impacts Unit by providing information on wave climates in Queensland. This information is later compiled into more comprehensive regional wave data, providing the more thorough, long-term presentation of regional conditions.

The information presented here summarises the primary analyses of wave data recorded using Datawell Waverider buoys positioned off the Queensland coastline from 1 November 2011 to 31 October 2012. The data recorded covers all of the seasonal variations for one year, and includes the 2011–12 cyclone season, which extends from 1 November through to 30 April. This period is also classed as ‘summer’ in both this annual report and the regional technical reports. The remainder of the year (1 May to 31 October) is classed as ‘winter’ in these reports. The wave recording program utilised the Waverider system, manufactured by Datawell of the Netherlands, to measure the sea surface fluctuations at each offshore location. Directional Waverider buoys operated at all sites except Cairns where a non-directional Waverider buoy is deployed due to the sheltered nature of the site. For all stations, the wave data has been statistically compared to the long- term average conditions at each site. Also provided are brief details of the recording equipment, the methods of handling raw data and the type of analyses employed.

The information in this report can be used by the general public and by professionals involved in the study of coastal processes in Queensland. Wave information is important for a broad range of activities – from planning marine operation activities to designing structures that are capable of withstanding extreme waves and severe storm events. The information is also used by the insurance industry and in public liability claims, and it helps in identifying whether climate change is having an impact on wave patterns and how this may affect the Queensland coastline.

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Contents

Abstract ...... iii Contents ...... iv List of Tables ...... v List of Figures ...... vi 1. Introduction ...... 1 1.1 Wave recording stations ...... 1 1.2 Recording ...... 2 1.2.1 Accelerometer Buoys ...... 3 1.2.2 GPS Buoys ...... 3 1.3 Laboratory calibration checks ...... 4 1.4 Wave recording and analysis procedures ...... 5 1.5 Data losses ...... 6 2. Overview ...... 7 3. Tweed Heads ...... 17 4. Gold Coast ...... 30 5. Brisbane ...... 43 6. Central Moreton ...... 55 7. North Moreton ...... 66 8. Mooloolaba ...... 78 9. Gladstone ...... 91 10. Emu Park ...... 104 11. Hay Point ...... 116 12. Mackay ...... 128 13. Townsville ...... 140 14. Cairns ...... 152 15. Albatross Bay ...... 162 16. References ...... 174 Other published wave data reports in this series ...... 175 Appendix A Zero up-crossing analysis ...... 177 Appendix B Glossary of Terms ...... 177

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List of Tables

Table 1.1: Wave recording stations November 2011 - October 2012 ...... 1 Table 1.2: Wave parameters involved in the analysis ...... 5 Table 2.1: Details of tropical cyclones in Queensland region during 2011-12 ...... 7 Table 2.2: Wave recording history ...... 15 Table 3.1: Tweed Heads - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 17 Table 3.2: Tweed Heads - Highest waves ...... 19 Table 3.3: Tweed Heads - Significant meteorological events ...... 19 Table 4.1: Gold Coast - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 30 Table 4.2: Gold Coast - Highest waves ...... 32 Table 4.3: Gold Coast - Significant meteorological events ...... 32 Table 5.1: Brisbane - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 43 Table 5.2: Brisbane - Highest waves ...... 45 Table 5.3: Brisbane - Significant meteorological events ...... 45 Table 6.1: Central Moreton - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 55 Table 6.2: Central Moreton - Highest waves ...... 57 Table 6.3: Central Moreton - Significant meteorological events ...... 57 Table 7.1: North Moreton - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 66 Table 7.2: North Moreton - Highest waves ...... 68 Table 7.3: North Moreton - Significant meteorological events ...... 68 Table 8.1: Mooloolaba - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 78 Table 8.2: Mooloolaba - Highest waves ...... 80 Table 8.3: Mooloolaba - Significant meteorological events ...... 80 Table 9.1: Gladstone - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 91 Table 9.2: Gladstone - Highest waves ...... 93 Table 9.3: Gladstone - Significant meteorological events ...... 93 Table 10.1: Emu Park - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 104 Table 10.2: Emu Park - Highest waves ...... 106 Table 10.3: Emu Park - Significant meteorological events ...... 106 Table 11.1: Hay Point - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 116 Table 11.2: Hay Point - Highest waves ...... 118 Table 11.3: Hay Point - Significant meteorological events ...... 118 Table 12.1: Mackay - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 128 Table 12.2: Mackay - Highest waves ...... 130 Table 12.3: Mackay - Significant meteorological events ...... 130 Table 13.1: Townsville - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 140 Table 13.2: Townsville - Highest waves ...... 142

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Table 13.3: Townsville - Significant meteorological events ...... 142 Table 14.1: Cairns - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 152 Table 14.2: Cairns - Highest waves ...... 154 Table 14.3: Cairns - Significant meteorological events ...... 154 Table 15.1: Albatross Bay - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season ...... 162 Table 15.2: Albatross Bay - Highest waves ...... 164 Table 15.3: Albatross Bay - Significant meteorological events ...... 164

List of Figures

Figure 1.1: DSITIA wave recording sites – Locality plan ...... 2 Figure 1.2: The GPS wave measurement principle (Source: Datawell) ...... 3 Figure 2.1: Tropical cyclones affecting Queensland coastline 2011-12 ...... 15 Figure 3.1: Tweed Heads - Locality plan ...... 18 Figure 3.2: Tweed Heads - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 22 Figure 3.3: Tweed Heads - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 23 Figure 3.4: Tweed Heads - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 24 Figure 3.5: Tweed Heads - Wave parameter relationships ...... 25 Figure 3.6: Tweed Heads - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 26 Figure 3.7: Tweed Heads - Daily wave recordings ...... 27 Figure 3.8: Tweed Heads - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions...... 28 Figure 3.9: Tweed Heads - Directional wave rose ...... 29 Figure 4.1: Gold Coast - Locality plan ...... 31 Figure 4.2: Gold Coast - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 35 Figure 4.3: Gold Coast - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 36 Figure 4.4: Gold Coast - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 37 Figure 4.5: Gold Coast - Wave parameter relationships ...... 38 Figure 4.6: Gold Coast - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 39 Figure 4.7: Gold Coast - Daily wave recordings ...... 40 Figure 4.8: Gold Coast - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions ...... 41 Figure 4.9: Gold Coast - Directional wave rose ...... 42

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Figure 5.1: Brisbane - Locality plan ...... 44 Figure 5.2: Brisbane - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 47 Figure 5.3: Brisbane - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 48 Figure 5.4: Brisbane - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 49 Figure 5.5: Brisbane - Wave parameter relationships ...... 50 Figure 5.6: Brisbane - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 51 Figure 5.7: Brisbane - Daily wave recordings ...... 52 Figure 5.8: Brisbane - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions ...... 53 Figure 5.9: Brisbane - Directional wave rose ...... 54 Figure 6.1: Central Moreton - Locality plan ...... 56 Figure 6.2: Central Moreton - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 58 Figure 6.3: Central Moreton - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 59 Figure 6.4: Central Moreton - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 60 Figure 6.5: Central Moreton - Wave parameter relationships ...... 61 Figure 6.6: Central Moreton - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 62 Figure 6.7: Central Moreton - Daily wave recordings ...... 63 Figure 6.8: Central Moreton - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions ...... 64 Figure 6.9: Central Moreton - Directional wave rose ...... 65 Figure 7.1: North Moreton - Locality plan ...... 67 Figure 7.2: North Moreton - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 70 Figure 7.3: North Moreton - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 71 Figure 7.4: North Moreton - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 72 Figure 7.5: North Moreton - Wave parameter relationships ...... 73 Figure 7.6: North Moreton - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 74 Figure 7.7: North Moreton - Daily wave recordings ...... 75 Figure 7.8: North Moreton - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions ...... 76 Figure 7.9: North Moreton - Directional wave rose ...... 77 Figure 8.1: Mooloolaba - Locality plan ...... 79 Figure 8.2: Mooloolaba - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 83

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Figure 8.3: Mooloolaba - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 84 Figure 8.4: Mooloolaba - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 85 Figure 8.5: Mooloolaba - Wave parameter relationships ...... 86 Figure 8.6: Mooloolaba - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 87 Figure 8.7: Mooloolaba - Daily wave recordings ...... 88 Figure 8.8: Mooloolaba - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions ...... 89 Figure 8.9: Mooloolaba - Directional wave rose ...... 90 Figure 9.1: Gladstone - Locality plan ...... 92 Figure 9.2: Gladstone - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 96 Figure 9.3: Gladstone - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 97 Figure 9.4: Gladstone - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 98 Figure 9.5: Gladstone - Wave parameter relationships...... 99 Figure 9.6: Gladstone - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 100 Figure 9.7: Gladstone - Daily wave recordings ...... 101 Figure 9.8: Gladstone - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions ...... 102 Figure 9.9: Gladstone - Directional wave rose ...... 103 Figure 10.1: Emu Park - Locality plan ...... 105 Figure 10.2: Emu Park - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 108 Figure 10.3: Emu Park - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 109 Figure 10.4: Emu Park - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 110 Figure 10.5: Emu Park - Wave parameter relationships ...... 111 Figure 10.6: Emu Park - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 112 Figure 10.7: Emu Park - Daily wave recordings ...... 113 Figure 10.8: Emu Park - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions ...... 114 Figure 10.9: Emu Park - Directional wave rose ...... 115 Figure 11.1: Hay Point - Locality plan ...... 117 Figure 11.2: Hay Point - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 120 Figure 11.3: Hay Point - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 121

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Figure 11.4: Hay Point - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 122 Figure 11.5: Hay Point - Wave parameter relationships ...... 123 Figure 11.6: Hay Point - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 124 Figure 11.7: Hay Point - Daily wave recordings ...... 125 Figure 11.8: Hay Point - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions ...... 126 Figure 11.9: Hay Point - Directional wave rose ...... 127 Figure 12.1: Mackay - Locality plan ...... 129 Figure 12.2: Mackay - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 132 Figure 12.3: Mackay - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 133 Figure 12.4: Mackay - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 134 Figure 12.5: Mackay - Wave parameter relationships ...... 135 Figure 12.6: Mackay - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 136 Figure 12.7: Mackay - Daily wave recordings ...... 137 Figure 12.8: Mackay - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions ...... 138 Figure 12.9: Mackay - Directional wave rose ...... 139 Figure 13.1: Townsville - Locality plan ...... 141 Figure 13.2: Townsville - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 144 Figure 13.3: Townsville - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 145 Figure 13.4: Townsville - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 146 Figure 13.5: Townsville - Wave parameter relationships ...... 147 Figure 13.6: Townsville - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 148 Figure 13.7: Townsville - Daily wave recordings ...... 149 Figure 13.8: Townsville - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions ...... 150 Figure 13.9: Townsville - Directional wave rose ...... 151 Figure 14.1: Cairns - Locality plan ...... 153 Figure 14.2: Cairns - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 156 Figure 14.3: Cairns - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 157 Figure 14.4: Cairns - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 158 Figure 14.5: Cairns - Wave parameter relationships ...... 159

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Figure 14.6: Cairns - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 160 Figure 14.7: Cairns - Daily wave recordings ...... 161 Figure 15.1: Albatross Bay - Locality plan ...... 163 Figure 15.2: Albatross Bay - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 166 Figure 15.3: Albatross Bay - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) ...... 167 Figure 15.4: Albatross Bay - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) ...... 168 Figure 15.5: Albatross Bay - Wave parameter relationships ...... 169 Figure 15.6: Albatross Bay - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig) ...... 170 Figure 15.7: Albatross Bay - Daily wave recordings ...... 171 Figure 15.8: Albatross Bay - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions ...... 172 Figure 15.9: Albatross Bay - Directional wave rose ...... 173

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1. Introduction

1.1 Wave recording stations

The Department of Science, Information Technology, Innovation and the Arts, as part of its long-term data collection program, has maintained a network of wave recording stations along the Queensland coast since 1968.

The network of wave recording stations has been grouped into two categories:

Long-term sites: These sites form part of long-term data collection activities along the Queensland coast that gather wave statistics used for coastal management purposes. The stations are fully funded and operated by DSITIA.

Partnership sites: The operation of these sites will vary in duration, and they are associated with specific projects, to assess wave conditions or to monitor works. These stations are operated by DSITIA in conjunction with (and jointly-funded by) other agencies.

The 2011–12 site groups are as follows:

Table 1.1: Wave recording stations November 2011 - October 2012

Long-term Joint project Joint project partners

Brisbane Tweed Heads TRESBP *

Emu Park Gold Coast Gold Coast City Council

Mackay Central Moreton Port of Brisbane Corporation

Townsville North Moreton Port of Brisbane Corporation

Cairns Mooloolaba Department of Transport

Gladstone Gladstone Ports Corporation

Hay Point North Queensland Bulk Ports

Abbot Point** North Queensland Bulk Ports

Weipa North Queensland Bulk Ports

* Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypassing Project (joint project of Queensland and New South Wales Governments with support from Gold Coast City Council)

** Abbot Point is a new site (less than 12 months in service) so it cannot be featured in this year’s report due to lack of data

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This report is one of a series of reports intended to make wave information more readily available by summarising the primary analysis of wave data collected at the buoy locations along the Queensland coastline and presenting wave climate information for the period 1 November, 2011 to 31 October, 2012.

For all stations, the wave data collected for the current year is statistically compared to the long-term average conditions at the site. Brief details of the recording equipment, the methods of handling raw data and the type of analyses employed are provided within this report.

Figure 1.1: DSITIA wave recording sites – Locality plan

1.2 Recording

For the duration of this summary report DSITIA’s Coastal Impacts Unit wave recording program utilised the Waverider system manufactured by Datawell of the Netherlands to measure the sea surface fluctuations at an offshore location. Directional Waverider buoys were in operation at all sites except

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Cairns during the period of this report. A non-directional Waverider buoy is deployed at Cairns due to the sheltered nature of the site.

1.2.1 Accelerometer Buoys

The directional Waverider buoys at the Brisbane, Gold Coast, Gladstone, Mackay, and Townsville sites measure vertical accelerations by means of an accelerometer, placed on a gravity-stabilised platform. This platform is formed by a disk which is suspended in fluid within a plastic sphere placed at the bottom of the buoy. Two vertical coils are wound around the plastic sphere and one small horizontal coil is placed on the platform. The pitch and roll angles are defined by the amount of magnetic coupling between the fixed coils and the coil on the platform. Measuring this coupling gives the sine of the angles between the coils (x and y axes) and the horizontal plane (= platform plane). An additional accelerometer unit measures the forces on the buoy with respect to its x and y axes.

A fluxgate compass provides a global directional reference with which to orient the buoy. The acceleration values that are relative to the buoy are then transformed into values that are relative to the fixed compass. The measured acceleration values are filtered and double integrated with respect to time to establish displacement values for recording.

Only waves with frequencies within the range of 0.033 – 0.64 Hz can be captured by the buoy, due to physical limitations of the system. Wave motion with higher frequencies can’t be followed/ridden properly due to the dimensions of the buoy, while lower frequency waves apply very small acceleration forces that become undetectable (Datawell, 2010).

1.2.2 GPS Buoys

The directional Waverider buoys at the Tweed Heads, Central Moreton Bay, North Moreton Bay, Mooloolaba, Emu Park, Hay Point, and Albatross Bay () sites uses the GPS satellite system to calculate the velocity of the buoy (as it moves with the passing waves) from changes in the frequency of GPS signals according to the Doppler principle. For example, if the buoy is moving towards the satellite the frequency of the signal is increased, and vice-versa. The velocities are integrated through time to determine buoy displacement. The measurement principle is illustrated in Figure 1.2, which shows a satellite directly overhead and a satellite at the horizon. In practice the GPS system uses signals from multiple satellites to determine three-dimensional buoy motion.

Figure 1.2: The GPS wave measurement principle (Source: Datawell)

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At all wave sites, the vertical buoy displacement representing the instantaneous water level and calculated directional data are transmitted to a receiver station as a frequency modulated high- frequency radio signal. The directional Waverider receiver stations on shore are each comprised of a desktop computer system connected to a Datawell receiver/digitiser. The water level data at each site is digitised at 0·78sec intervals (1·28Hz) and stored in bursts of 2048 points (approximately 26min) on the hard disk of the computer.

The proprietary software running on the computer controls the timing of data recording, and processes the data in near real time to provide a set of standard sea-state parameters and spectra that may be accessed remotely via a Telstra NEXTG® link. Recorded data and analysis results are downloaded every two hours to a central computer system in Brisbane for checking, further processing, and archiving.

Further information on the operation of the Waverider buoy and the recording systems can be obtained from the reference sources listed in section 16 of this report.

1.3 Laboratory calibration checks

Waverider buoys used by DSITIA are calibrated before deployment and also after recovery. Normally, a buoy is calibrated once every 12 months. Calibration of accelerometer buoys is performed at DSITIA’s Deagon site using a buoy calibrator to simulate sinusoidal waves with vertical displacements of 2·7m. The calibrator is electrically controlled and the frequency may be adjusted from 0·016–0·25Hz. It is usual to check three frequencies during a calibration. The following characteristics of the buoy are also checked during the calibration procedure:

• compass

• phase and amplitude response

• accelerometer platform stability

• platform tilt

• battery capacity

• power output

Calibration of the GPS buoy involves placing it in a fixed location on land for a period of several days while it records data. This location should be such that there are no obstructions between the buoy and the orbiting GPS satellites. A GPS buoy in calibration should produce result showing no displacements between records – any differences can be attributed to errors in the transmission signal between the GPS buoy and the orbiting satellites or to faults in the buoy.

There are no adjustments to the recorded wave data, based on the laboratory calibration results. Monthly averages are calculated based on available data and no wave data records are rejected based on low capture rates. Research (Bacon & Carter, 1991 and Allan & Komar, 2001) has suggested rejecting entire records where less than a certain threshold has been recorded. All Queensland wave-recording sites generally have high-percentage capture rates for the seasonal year and thus minimal bias is introduced into calculations.

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1.4 Wave recording and analysis procedures

The computer-based, wave-recording systems at all sites record data at half-hourly intervals. Raw wave data transmitted from the buoys is analysed in the time domain by the zero up-crossing method (see Appendix A) and in the frequency domain by spectral analysis using Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) techniques to give 128 spectral estimates in bands of 0·01Hz. The directional information is obtained from initial processing on the buoy, where datasets are divided into data sub-sets and each sub-set is analysed using FFT techniques. The output from this processing is then transmitted to the shore station, along with the raw data, where it undergoes further analysis using FFT techniques to produce 128 spectral estimates in bands of 0·005Hz.

The zero up-crossing analysis is equivalent in both the accelerometer and GPS systems. Wave parameters resulting from the time and frequency domain analysis included the following:

Table 1.2: Wave parameters involved in the analysis

Parameter Description

S(f) Energy density spectrum (frequency domain)

Hsig Significant wave height (time domain), the average of the highest third of the waves in the record

Hmax The highest individual wave in the record (time domain)

Hrms The root mean square of the wave heights in the record (time domain)

Tsig Significant wave period (time domain), the average period of the highest third of waves in the record

Tz The average period of all zero up-crossing waves in the record (time domain)

Tp The wave period corresponding to the peak of the energy density spectrum (frequency domain)

Tc The average period of all the waves in the record based on successive crests (time domain)

Dir The direction (frequency domain) from which the peak period waves (Tp) are coming (in º True)

SST The sea surface temperature (in º Celsius) obtained by a sensor mounted in the bottom of the buoy.

These parameters form the basis for the summary plots and tables included in this report.

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1.5 Data losses

Data losses can be divided into two categories: losses due to equipment failure and losses during data processing due to signal corruption. Common causes of data corruption include radio interference and a spurious, low-frequency component in the water-level signal caused by a tilting platform in the accelerometer-based Waverider buoy. Obstructions in the data path between the GPS buoy and the orbiting satellites can also cause data corruption and loss of signal.

Analysis of recorded data by the computer systems includes some data rejection checks which may result in a small number of spurious and rejected data points being replaced using an interpolation procedure, otherwise the entire series is rejected.

As discussed above, the various sources of data losses can cause occasional gaps in the data record. Gaps may be relatively short, caused by rejection of data records or much longer if caused by malfunction of the Waverider buoy or the recording equipment.

In the calculation of wave-climate statistics, each record is assigned a total duration equal to half the recording interval on either side of that record. The durations on the side of those records adjacent to gaps in the data are limited to a maximum value dependent on the nominal-recording interval of those records.

With the nominal-recording interval set at thirty minutes, the maximum allowable total duration of a record is equal to ninety minutes. Any duration on either side of a record greater than 45min (half the maximum allowable total duration) is set to the maximum allowable of exactly 45min and a gap in the data is reported.

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2. Overview

Figure 1.1 above presents a large-scale view of the locations of wave recording stations in operation around the Queensland coastline for the 2011–12 seasonal year. Details of wave recorder installations for each site are shown on the first pages of each site section, and include information on buoy location; recording station location; and percentage of data captured for each month.

The wave-climate data presented in this report is based on statistical analyses of the parameters obtained from the recorded-wave data. Programs developed by DISITIA provide statistical information on percentage of time occurrence and exceedance for wave heights and periods. The results of these analyses are presented in Figures §.2, §.3 and §.4 for each site, where § represents the site number (starting at 3). In each of these three figures for each site, the term All Data refers to the entire available dataset collected for that site (see Table 2.2 below). In addition, similar statistical analysis provides wave parameter relationships and monthly averages of wave heights and periods for the seasonal year and all data as Figures §.5 and §.6.

Daily wave recordings for the seasonal year are shown for all sites (Figures §.7). Directional sites also show average peak direction (Dir_p) and sea surface temperature recordings as well (Figures §.8).

Directional wave roses for the 2011–12 seasonal year are presented at directional sites as Figures §.9. Wave roses summarise wave occurrence at a directional site by indicating their size, direction and frequency. Each branch of a wave rose represents waves coming from that direction with branches divided into three Hsig segments of varying range. The length of each branch represents the total percentage of waves from that direction with the length of each segment within a branch representing the percentage of waves, in that size range, arriving from that direction for all wave periods. Calm wave conditions have been defined as below 0.5 metres and are represented as a percentage inside the centre circle. Note that a 0.2 per cent cut off has been applied to the data as the wave roses are only intended as a visual guide to the wave climate at a site.

A summary of major meteorological events for the 2011–12 seasonal year (where the recorded Hsig value reached the storm threshold wave height) is also provided for each site. Wave parameters Hsig, Hmax, Tp, and other relevant information are listed for each event. Only storm and cyclone events that contributed to the Hsig reaching the storm threshold value at any of the wave sites are listed in the table.

Table 2.1 lists the details of the cyclones that occurred along the Queensland coastline during the 2011– 12 season (see Figure 2.1). This information was extracted from the Bureau of Meteorology database of cyclone tracks (found at http://www.bom.gov.au/cyclone/history/index.shtml), and the US Naval Research Laboratory (NRL) track archives (found at http://www.nrlmry.navy.mil/tcdat/tc12/). Information about the short-lived Fina was sourced from the WX-TROPL mailing list archives of Brisbane Tropical Cyclone Warning Centre (TCWC) technical bulletins.

Table 2.1: Details of tropical cyclones in Queensland region during 2011-12

Central Name Point Time (AEDT) Latitude Longitude Pressure (hPa)

Fina 1 21/12/2011 17:00 -16.1 157.1 1001

Fina 2 21/12/2011 23:00 -17.1 157.4 998

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Fina 3 22/12/2011 05:00 -17.5 157.2 996

Fina 4 22/12/2011 08:00 -18.1 156.2 994

Fina 5 22/12/2011 11:00 -18.5 156.0 995

Fina 6 22/12/2011 12:00 -18.9 155.8 998

Grant 1 21/12/2011 11:00 -10.5 134.5 1004

Grant 2 21/12/2011 14:00 -10 133.6 1003

Grant 3 21/12/2011 17:00 -9.6 132.3 1000

Grant 4 21/12/2011 23:00 -9.6 132.3 1001

Grant 5 22/12/2011 2:00 -9.7 132.3 1000

Grant 6 22/12/2011 5:00 -9.8 132.4 1000

Grant 7 22/12/2011 8:00 -9.9 132.5 1000

Grant 8 22/12/2011 11:00 -10.1 132.4 1000

Grant 9 22/12/2011 14:00 -10.2 132.2 1000

Grant 10 22/12/2011 17:00 -10.2 132 999

Grant 11 22/12/2011 20:00 -10.2 131.5 999

Grant 12 22/12/2011 23:00 -10.3 131.1 999

Grant 13 23/12/2011 2:00 -10.4 131.1 999

Grant 14 23/12/2011 5:00 -10.5 131.3 999

Grant 15 23/12/2011 8:00 -10.6 131.5 999

Grant 16 23/12/2011 11:00 -10.6 131.7 999

Grant 17 23/12/2011 14:00 -10.7 132.2 998

Page 8 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Grant 18 23/12/2011 17:00 -10.8 132.5 998

Grant 19 23/12/2011 20:00 -10.6 132.2 997

Grant 20 23/12/2011 23:00 -10.6 132 999

Grant 21 24/12/2011 2:00 -10.6 131.8 998

Grant 22 24/12/2011 5:00 -10.7 131.5 998

Grant 23 24/12/2011 8:00 -10.7 131.4 998

Grant 24 24/12/2011 11:00 -10.8 131.4 998

Grant 25 24/12/2011 14:00 -10.8 131.4 998

Grant 26 24/12/2011 17:00 -10.8 131.4 997

Grant 27 24/12/2011 20:00 -10.8 131.6 996

Grant 28 24/12/2011 23:00 -10.8 131.9 996

Grant 29 25/12/2011 2:00 -10.7 132.1 995

Grant 30 25/12/2011 5:00 -10.6 132.4 993

Grant 31 25/12/2011 8:00 -10.7 132.4 993

Grant 32 25/12/2011 11:00 -10.7 132.4 993

Grant 33 25/12/2011 14:00 -10.9 132.8 984

Grant 34 25/12/2011 17:00 -11 132.7 982

Grant 35 25/12/2011 20:00 -11.2 132.7 981

Grant 36 25/12/2011 23:00 -11.5 132.7 978

Grant 37 26/12/2011 2:00 -11.8 132.5 981

Grant 38 26/12/2011 5:00 -12 132.65 984

Page 9 of 179 Science Delivery

Grant 39 26/12/2011 8:00 -12.2 132.6 987

Grant 40 26/12/2011 11:00 -12.4 132.6 990

Grant 41 26/12/2011 14:00 -12.5 132.6 995

Grant 42 26/12/2011 17:00 -12.6 132.6 996

Grant 43 26/12/2011 20:00 -13.1 132.6 998

Grant 44 26/12/2011 23:00 -13.2 132.6 998

Grant 45 27/12/2011 2:00 -13.3 132.8 998

Grant 46 27/12/2011 5:00 -13.4 132.9 997

Grant 47 27/12/2011 8:00 -13.4 132.9 997

Grant 48 27/12/2011 11:00 -13.5 132.9 999

Grant 49 27/12/2011 14:00 -13.74 133.08 1000

Grant 50 27/12/2011 17:00 -13.97 133.56 999

Grant 51 27/12/2011 20:00 -14 134 999

Grant 52 27/12/2011 23:00 -14 134.3 1000

Grant 53 28/12/2011 2:00 -14 134.5 1002

Grant 54 28/12/2011 5:00 -14 134.7 1001

Grant 55 28/12/2011 8:00 -14 134.9 1001

Grant 56 28/12/2011 11:00 -14.1 135.3 1001

Grant 57 28/12/2011 14:00 -14.1 135.8 1000

Grant 58 28/12/2011 17:00 -14.1 136.2 1000

Grant 59 28/12/2011 23:00 -14.3 137.1 -

Page 10 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Grant 60 29/12/2011 5:00 -14.4 138 998

Grant 61 29/12/2011 11:00 -14.4 139.2 1001

Grant 62 29/12/2011 14:00 -14.05 139.78 -

Grant 63 29/12/2011 17:00 -14 140.23 1002

Grant 64 29/12/2011 20:00 -13.8 140.41 1000

Grant 65 29/12/2011 23:00 -13.7 140.72 1001

Grant 66 30/12/2011 2:00 -13.7 141.11 -

Grant 67 30/12/2011 5:00 -13.7 141.5 1000

Grant 68 30/12/2011 8:00 -13.7 142 1000

Grant 69 30/12/2011 11:00 -13.6 142.7 1000

Grant 70 30/12/2011 14:00 -13.6 143.2 -

Grant 71 30/12/2011 17:00 -13.6 143.7 -

Grant 72 30/12/2011 23:00 -13.05 145.35 -

Grant 73 31/12/2011 05:00 -12.9 146.07 1002

Grant 74 31/12/2011 11:00 -12.5 146.9 -

Grant 75 31/12/2011 17:00 -12.6 148.5 1004

Jasmine 1 1/02/2012 05:00 -15.9 140.4 1010

Jasmine 2 1/02/2012 11:00 -15.6 140.6 1010

Jasmine 3 1/02/2012 17:00 -15.4 140.8 1005

Jasmine 4 1/02/2012 23:00 -15.1 141.1 1000

Jasmine 5 2/02/2012 05:00 -14.9 141.7 994

Page 11 of 179 Science Delivery

Jasmine 6 2/02/2012 11:00 -14.9 142.5 994

Jasmine 7 2/02/2012 17:00 -15.0 143.5 994

Jasmine 8 2/02/2012 23:00 -15.1 144.5 994

Jasmine 9 3/02/2012 05:00 -15.4 145.8 993

Jasmine 10 3/02/2012 11:00 -15.9 147.3 993

Jasmine 11 3/02/2012 17:00 -16.4 148.3 993

Jasmine 12 3/02/2012 23:00 -16.7 149.0 994

Jasmine 13 4/02/2012 05:00 -17.0 149.5 993

Jasmine 14 4/02/2012 11:00 -17.2 149.9 996

Jasmine 15 4/02/2012 17:00 -17.2 150.3 993

Jasmine 16 4/02/2012 23:00 -17.1 150.7 989

Jasmine 17 5/02/2012 05:00 -17.0 151.7 989

Jasmine 18 5/02/2012 11:00 -17.1 152.8 989

Jasmine 19 5/02/2012 17:00 -17.2 153.9 989

Jasmine 20 5/02/2012 23:00 -17.2 155.0 985

Jasmine 21 6/02/2012 05:00 -17.0 156.3 985

Jasmine 22 6/02/2012 11:00 -17.0 157.5 982

Jasmine 23 6/02/2012 17:00 -17.1 158.9 978

Jasmine 24 6/02/2012 23:00 -17.2 160.3 974

Jasmine 25 7/02/2012 05:00 -17.5 161.7 967

Jasmine 26 7/02/2012 11:00 -18.1 163.0 956

Page 12 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Jasmine 27 7/02/2012 17:00 -18.7 164.6 948

Jasmine 28 7/02/2012 23:00 -18.9 165.8 944

Jasmine 29 8/02/2012 05:00 -19.4 167.2 941

Jasmine 30 8/02/2012 11:00 -19.8 168.4 941

Jasmine 31 8/02/2012 17:00 -20.6 169.4 937

Jasmine 32 8/02/2012 23:00 -21.2 170.1 937

Jasmine 33 9/02/2012 05:00 -21.7 170.6 937

Jasmine 34 9/02/2012 11:00 -22.4 170.9 941

Jasmine 35 9/02/2012 17:00 -23.3 171.1 944

Jasmine 36 9/02/2012 23:00 -23.9 171.4 952

Jasmine 37 10/02/2012 05:00 -24.6 171.8 956

Jasmine 38 10/02/2012 11:00 -25.2 172.2 963

Jasmine 39 10/02/2012 17:00 -25.7 172.8 967

Jasmine 40 10/02/2012 23:00 -26.0 173.6 967

Jasmine 41 11/02/2012 05:00 -26.2 174.4 967

Jasmine 42 11/02/2012 11:00 -26.4 175.5 967

Jasmine 43 11/02/2012 17:00 -26.2 176.4 967

Jasmine 44 11/02/2012 23:00 -26.0 177.5 974

Jasmine 45 12/02/2012 05:00 -25.9 178.5 989

Jasmine 46 12/02/2012 11:00 -25.5 179.4 989

Jasmine 47 12/02/2012 17:00 -24.5 179.4 996

Page 13 of 179 Science Delivery

Jasmine 48 12/02/2012 23:00 -23.9 178.3 996

Jasmine 49 13/02/2012 05:00 -23.5 177.6 996

Jasmine 50 13/02/2012 11:00 -22.9 177.0 996

Jasmine 51 13/02/2012 17:00 -22.4 176.6 996

Jasmine 52 13/02/2012 23:00 -21.8 176.3 996

Jasmine 53 14/02/2012 05:00 -21.2 176.0 996

Jasmine 54 14/02/2012 11:00 -21.0 176.0 996

Jasmine 55 14/02/2012 17:00 -21.2 175.7 996

Jasmine 56 14/02/2012 23:00 -21.2 176.2 996

Jasmine 57 15/02/2012 05:00 -21.3 176.3 996

Jasmine 58 15/02/2012 11:00 -21.4 176.7 996

Jasmine 59 15/02/2012 17:00 -21.6 177.1 996

Jasmine 60 15/02/2012 23:00 -22.0 177.4 996

Jasmine 61 16/02/2012 05:00 -22.7 177.4 996

Jasmine 62 16/02/2012 11:00 -23.0 177.0 996

Jasmine 63 16/02/2012 17:00 -23.6 176.5 996

Jasmine 64 16/02/2012 23:00 -24.2 176.0 1000

Page 14 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 2.1: Tropical cyclones affecting Queensland coastline 2011-12

Table 2.2: Wave recording history

Directional Total Directional Site Start date End date Restart start date years years

Tweed 13/01/1995 - - 13/01/1995 17.8 17.8 Heads

Page 15 of 179 Science Delivery

Gold Coast 21/03/1987 - - 17/07/2007 25.6 5.3

Brisbane 31/10/1976 - - 20/01/1997 36.0 15.8

Central 19/10/2000 - - 19/10/2000 12.0 12.0 Moreton Bay

North 22/09/2003 - - 22/09/2003 9.1 9.1 Moreton Bay

Mooloolaba 20/04/2000 - - 11/05/2005 12.5 7.5

Gladstone 23/09/2009 - - 23/09/2009 3.1 3.1

Emu Park 24/07/1996 - 24/07/1996 16.3 16.3

Hay Point 24/04/1977 25/05/1987 3/04/1993 31/10/2009 29.7 3.0

Mackay 19/09/1975 - - 13/03/2002 37.1 10.6

Abbot Point 17/01/2012 - - 17/01/2012 0.75 0.75

Townsville 20/11/1975 - 29/10/2008 36.9 4.0

Cairns 04/05/1975 - - - 37.5 0.0

Albatross 25/11/2008 - - 25/11/2008 3.9 3.9 Bay (Weipa)

No attempt has been made to interpret the recorded data for design purposes or to apply corrections for refraction, diffraction and shoaling to obtain equivalent deep-water waves. Before any use is made of this data, the exact location of the buoy, and the water depth in which the buoy was moored, should be noted.

Page 16 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

3. Tweed Heads

Table 3.1: Tweed Heads - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Tweed Heads 100.0 99.7 98.7 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 96.3 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 99.6

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Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

28°10.848'S 153°34.560'E 23 24/12/2010 23/01/2012

28°10.890'S 153°34.482'E 22 23/01/2012 current

Figure 3.1: Tweed Heads - Locality plan

Page 18 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Table 3.2: Tweed Heads - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 3/05/1996 1:00 7.5 2/05/1996 14:30 13.1

2 6/03/2004 1:00 6.1 5/03/2004 23:30 11.1

3 21/05/2009 19:30 5.6 30/06/2005 6:30 9.9

4 24/05/1999 5:00 5.2 22/05/2009 7:00 9.7

5 4/03/2006 20:30 5.2 4/03/2006 12:00 9.6

6 12/06/2012 10:00 5.2 25/03/1998 22:30 9.5

7 15/02/1995 11:30 5.2 15/02/1995 15:30 9.3

8 30/06/2005 9:00 4.9 12/06/2012 11:30 9.3

9 24/03/2004 6:00 4.8 2/02/2001 2:00 9.1

10 1/05/2000 23:30 4.7 24/05/1999 2:30 9.1

Table 3.3: Tweed Heads - Significant meteorological events

Tweed Heads Storm threshold value: 2.0 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

2.5 4.6 Low [998 hPa] offshore from the Sunshine coast with winds along 8/12/2011 19:00 9.5 (2.9) (5.8) Fraser and southeast coasts

3.6 6.0 Ex-Tropical Cyclone Fina / Low [990 hPa] about 800km east of Cape 26/12/2011 12:00 12.3 (4.0) (7.3) Moreton

2.8 4.5 Surface low [1009 hPa] off the Wide Bay coast and a high [1032 hPa] 17/01/2012 9:00 9.3 (3.0) (5.5) in the Tasman Sea

Page 19 of 179 Science Delivery

2.9 4.5 High [1020 hPa] in the Tasman Sea and a low [1001 hPa] over central 26/01/2012 0:30 9.5 (3.2) (5.4) Queensland with trough extending to NSW coast

2.4 3.8 Low [991 hPa] east of NSW and Tropical over the 4/02/2012 21:00 11.8 (2.6) (4.4)

2.1 3.7 25/02/2012 1:00 8.1 Trough situated along the southern Queensland coast moving inland (2.2) (4.0)

2.0 3.4 Low [1003 hPa] located near Hervey Bay, drifting towards Sunshine 5/03/2012 8:00 11.3 (2.3) (4.1) Coast

2.3 4.0 23/03/2012 1:00 13 Trough extending from Wide Bay to the Sunshine Coast (2.4) (4.8)

2.1 3.4 Low [998 hPa] north of New Zealand combining with a high [1022 hPa] 5/04/2012 7:00 12.5 (2.3) (3.9) in the centre of the Tasman Sea

2.3 3.9 Trough extending along the coastline from central NSW to south east 21/04/2012 23:30 10.8 (2.6) (4.9) QLD

2.2 4.1 Low [1008 hPa] in the southern Tasman Sea extending a trough along 29/04/2012 15:00 8.8 (2.4) (4.6) NSW and SE QLD coastline

2.1 3.5 A low [1010 hPa] in the northern Tasman Sea extending a trough to 6/05/2012 19:30 11 (2.3) (4.3) the south

2.1 3.5 Two highs [1031 hPa and 1032 hPa] over the NSW coast and Tasman 1/06/2012 15:30 8 (2.2) (4.4) Sea

2.4 3.9 King tide in combination with deep low pressure system [996 hPa] well 6/06/2012 17:00 14.9 (2.7) (4.5) off the northern NSW coast

4.4 7.3 Low [986 hPa] about 530 kilometres east of Cape Moreton, combined 12/06/2012 10:00 12.8 (5.2) (9.3) with a high [1031 hPa] over the southern Tasman Sea

A low [1003 hPa] situated about 125 nautical miles east of Cape 3.8 6.2 29/06/2012 1:30 10.8 Moreton, combined with a high [1024 hPa] over the southern Tasman (4.2) (8.1) Sea

A high [1036 hPa] over the eastern Tasman Sea extending a firm ridge 2.1 3.7 11/07/2012 1:30 7.3 along the east Queensland coast, with a developing weak trough off (2.2) (4.1) the tropical Queensland coast

Page 20 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

2.3 3.8 A low [1002 hPa] over the northeastern Tasman Sea, and a high [1032 22/07/2012 22:30 10.9 (2.5) (5.0) hPa] over Victoria extending a ridge along the QLD coastline.

2.1 3.3 A large high [1028 hPa] over the Great Australian Bight moving slowly 12/08/2012 19:00 12 (2.3) (3.8) eastwards, with a complex low system over the southern Tasman Sea

A high over the Tasman Sea extends a firm ridge along the east 2.3 3.9 24/10/2012 22:30 12.9 Queensland coast, in combination with eastward moving complex low (2.6) (4.6) over the northern Tasman Sea

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

Page 21 of 179 Science Delivery

Figure 3.2: Tweed Heads - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

Page 22 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 3.3: Tweed Heads - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

Page 23 of 179 Science Delivery

Figure 3.4: Tweed Heads - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

Page 24 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 3.5: Tweed Heads - Wave parameter relationships

Page 25 of 179 Science Delivery

Figure 3.6: Tweed Heads - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

Page 26 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 3.7: Tweed Heads - Daily wave recordings

Page 27 of 179 Science Delivery

Figure 3.8: Tweed Heads - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

Page 28 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 3.9: Tweed Heads - Directional wave rose

Page 29 of 179 Science Delivery

4. Gold Coast

Table 4.1: Gold Coast - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Gold Coast 100.0 100.0 91.2 100.0 100.0 100.0 99.8 100.0 100.0 100.0 97.8 100.0 99.1

Page 30 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

27°57.948'S 153°33.792'E 18 4/07/2011 15/05/2012

27°57.966'S 153°26.574'E 18 15/05/2012 current

Figure 4.1: Gold Coast - Locality plan

Page 31 of 179 Science Delivery

Table 4.2: Gold Coast - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 3/05/1996 6:30 7.1 3/05/1996 6:30 12

2 23/05/2009 3:30 6.1 17/03/1993 4:30 11

3 5/03/2004 23:00 5.9 5/03/2006 5:00 10.7

4 17/03/1993 12:30 5.7 22/05/2009 12:30 10.6

5 25/04/1989 21:01 5.6 5/03/2004 22:00 10.6

6 12/06/2012 7:00 5.5 12/06/2012 7:00 10.5

7 5/03/2006 8:00 5.3 25/04/1989 9:03 10

8 15/02/1995 7:00 5 15/02/1995 10:30 9.2

9 2/04/2009 5:30 4.9 2/04/2009 5:30 9

10 11/04/1988 14:54 4.8 11/04/1988 14:54 8.8

Table 4.3: Gold Coast - Significant meteorological events

Gold Coast Storm threshold value: 2.0 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

2.3 4.1 Low [998 hPa] offshore from the Sunshine coast with winds along 9/12/2011 0:30 10.1 (2.6) (5.0) Fraser and southeast coasts

4.0 6.2 Ex-Tropical Cyclone Fina / Low [992 hPa] about 285 nm east of Sandy 25/12/2011 17:00 11.9 (4.3) (7.1) Cape

2.6 4.5 Surface low [1009 hPa] off the Wide Bay coast and a high [1032 hPa] 17/01/2012 8:30 9.2 (2.7) (5.4) in the Tasman Sea

Page 32 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

2.6 4.3 25/01/2012 10:30 8.7 High [1020 hPa] in the Tasman Sea and a low [1001 hPa] over central (2.7) (5.3) Queensland with trough extending to NSW coast

2.0 3.3 Low [991 hPa] east of NSW and Tropical Cyclone Jasmine over the 4/02/2012 23:30 12 (2.3) (4.1) Coral Sea

2.2 3.5 24/02/2012 22:00 8.3 Trough situated along the southern Queensland coast moving inland (2.4) (4.3)

2.0 3.1 23/03/2012 2:00 8 Trough extending from Wide Bay to the Sunshine Coast (2.2) (3.4)

2.1 3.4 Low [998 hPa] north of New Zealand combining with a high [1022 hPa] 5/04/2012 3:00 12.1 (2.3) (4.0) in the centre of the Tasman Sea

2.3 3.6 Trough extending along the coastline from central NSW to south east 22/04/2012 1:00 10.5 (2.6) (5.2) QLD

2.2 3.6 28/04/2012 21:00 7.8 A low [1010 hPa] located on a trough to the north of Fraser Island (2.3) (4.4)

2.1 3.5 A low [1006 hPa] in the Tasman Sea extending a trough to the north 7/05/2012 21:30 11.9 (2.4) (4.1) and south

2.2 3.7 Two highs [1031 hPa and 1032 hPa] over the NSW coast and Tasman 1/06/2012 17:30 12.5 (2.3) (4.0) Sea.

2.7 4.5 King tide in combination with deep low pressure system [996 hPa] well 6/06/2012 16:30 16.6 (3.4) (4.9) off the northern NSW coast

5.1 8.4 Low [986 hPa] about 530 kilometres east of Cape Moreton, combined 12/06/2012 7:00 13.1 (5.5) (10.5) with a high [1031 hPa] over the southern Tasman Sea

4.3 7.0 A low [1003 hPa] situated about 125 nautical miles east of Cape 29/06/2012 1:30 11.1 Moreton, combined with a high [1024 hPa] over the southern Tasman (4.6) (7.9) Sea

2.3 3.6 A low [1004 hPa] in the northeast Tasman Sea combined with a high 24/07/2012 10:00 11.3 (2.5) (4.8) [1029 hPa] over NSW directing winds to southeast QLD

2.3 3.8 A low [995 hPa] in the Tasman Sea and a high [1024 hPa] over the 1/08/2012 14:00 16.3 (2.5) (5.0) south east of the continent

Page 33 of 179 Science Delivery

2.2 3.7 12/08/2012 15:30 14.3 A large high [1028 hPa] over the Great Australian Bight moving slowly (2.3) (4.4) eastwards, with a complex low system over the southern Tasman Sea

2.0 3.1 A trough located near Sandy Cape. A firm ridge lies along the east 8/10/2012 21:00 16.1 (2.4) (3.8) coast south of the trough

2.4 4.0 A high over the Tasman Sea extends a firm ridge along the east 25/10/2012 2:00 13 Queensland coast, in combination with eastward moving complex low (2.7) (5.1) over the northern Tasman Sea

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

Page 34 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 4.2: Gold Coast - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

Page 35 of 179 Science Delivery

Figure 4.3: Gold Coast - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

Page 36 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 4.4: Gold Coast - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

Page 37 of 179 Science Delivery

Figure 4.5: Gold Coast - Wave parameter relationships

Page 38 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 4.6: Gold Coast - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

Page 39 of 179 Science Delivery

Figure 4.7: Gold Coast - Daily wave recordings

Page 40 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 4.8: Gold Coast - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

Page 41 of 179 Science Delivery

Figure 4.9: Gold Coast - Directional wave rose

Page 42 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

5. Brisbane

Table 5.1: Brisbane - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Brisbane 99.8 95.9 100.0 100.0 100.0 99.6 100.0 99.8 99.5 89.5 95.8 95.1 97.9

Page 43 of 179 Science Delivery

Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

27°29.286'S 153°37.932'E 70 10/06/2011 current

Figure 5.1: Brisbane - Locality plan

Page 44 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Table 5.2: Brisbane - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 17/03/1993 10:30 7.4 4/03/2006 21:00 16.8

2 4/03/2006 9:00 7.2 5/03/2004 17:30 14.3

3 5/03/2004 17:30 7 17/03/1993 3:30 13.1

4 2/05/1996 20:30 6.9 2/05/1996 14:00 12.8

5 15/02/1995 6:00 6.4 15/02/1995 6:30 12.2

6 23/08/2008 23:00 6.4 15/02/1996 19:00 12.1

7 12/06/2012 9:30 6.4 24/08/2008 2:00 11.5

8 6/06/2012 19:30 6.3 26/03/1998 7:00 11.5

9 31/12/2007 3:00 6.3 6/06/2012 19:30 11.1

10 15/02/1996 19:30 6.2 30/12/2007 16:00 11.1

Table 5.3: Brisbane - Significant meteorological events

Brisbane Storm threshold value: 4.0 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

4.5 7.3 Ex-Tropical Cyclone Fina / Low [990 hPa] over the southern Coral Sea 25/12/2011 23:00 12.2 (4.8) (9.4) about 360 nm east of Sandy Cape

4.1 6.6 Low [1002 hPa] located over the ocean northeast of Fraser Island, with 6/03/2012 19:00 9.5 (4.4) (7.2) a high [1033 hPa] south of the continent

4.0 6.9 High [1027 hPa] near Tasmania extending a firm ridge along the 18/03/2012 19:00 9.9 (4.4) (7.5) southern and central east coast of Queensland

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5.2 8.9 10/04/2012 22:00 10.8 High [1038 hPa] over eastern Great Australia Bight extending a (5.7) (10.8) strengthening ridge along east coast of Queensland

5.6 8.9 King tide in combination with deep low pressure system [996 hPa] well 6/06/2012 19:30 14.6 (6.3) (11.1) off the northern NSW coast

6.1 9.4 Low [986 hPa] about 530 kilometres east of Cape Moreton, combined 12/06/2012 9:30 12.6 (6.4) (11.0) with a high [1031 hPa] over the southern Tasman Sea

5.0 8.3 A low [1003 hPa] situated about 125 nautical miles east of Cape 29/06/2012 0:00 10.7 Moreton, combined with a high [1024 hPa] over the southern Tasman (5.4) (9.9) Sea

5.1 8.9 A low pressure system [1002 hPa] in the northern Tasman Sea in 21/07/2012 3:30 12.2 (5.5) (10.4) combination with a high [1033 hPa] over South Australia

4.1 6.7 A low [995 hPa] in the Tasman Sea and a high [1024 hPa] over the 1/08/2012 13:30 15.5 (4.6) (8.1) south east of the continent

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

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Figure 5.2: Brisbane - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 5.3: Brisbane - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 5.4: Brisbane - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 5.5: Brisbane - Wave parameter relationships

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Figure 5.6: Brisbane - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 5.7: Brisbane - Daily wave recordings

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Figure 5.8: Brisbane - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

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Figure 5.9: Brisbane - Directional wave rose

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6. Central Moreton

Table 6.1: Central Moreton - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Central Moreton 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 97.9 100.0 100.0 99.5 100.0 100.0 100.0 98.9 99.7

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Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

27°0.936'S 153°15.378'E 16 3/04/2011 2/06/2012

27°0.870'S 153°15.426'E 16 2/06/2012 current

Figure 6.1: Central Moreton - Locality plan

Page 56 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Table 6.2: Central Moreton - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 25/12/2011 8:00 1.9 22/08/2011 13:30 3.6

2 28/06/2012 16:00 1.8 28/06/2012 15:30 3.4

3 22/08/2011 15:00 1.8 25/12/2011 19:00 3.4

4 22/03/2012 18:30 1.8 12/06/2012 12:30 3.2

5 12/06/2012 14:00 1.7 22/03/2012 18:30 3.2

Table 6.3: Central Moreton - Significant meteorological events

Central Moreton Storm threshold value: 1.5 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

1.9 2.6 Ex-Tropical Cyclone Fina / Low [992 hPa] over the southern Coral Sea 25/12/2011 8:00 8.5 (1.9) (3.4) about 265 nm east of Sandy Cape

1.6 2.6 22/03/2012 18:30 6.8 Trough extending from Wide Bay to the Sunshine Coast (1.8) (3.2)

1.6 2.6 12/06/2012 14:00 11.1 Low [986 hPa] about 530 kilometres east of Cape Moreton, combined (1.7) (3.2) with a high [1031 hPa] over the southern Tasman Sea

1.7 3.1 A low [1006 hPa] on a surface trough east of Fraser Island in 28/06/2012 16:00 6.5 (1.8) (3.4) combination with a high [1028 hPa] over the Tasman Sea

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

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Figure 6.2: Central Moreton - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 6.3: Central Moreton - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 6.4: Central Moreton - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 6.5: Central Moreton - Wave parameter relationships

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Figure 6.6: Central Moreton - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 6.7: Central Moreton - Daily wave recordings

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Figure 6.8: Central Moreton - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

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Figure 6.9: Central Moreton - Directional wave rose

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7. North Moreton

Table 7.1: North Moreton - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

North Moreton 100.0 99.8 99.6 100.0 100.0 93.8 100.0 98.3 100.0 100.0 100.0 99.7 99.3

Page 66 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

26°53.574'S 153°16.566'E 34 17/03/2011 8/04/2012

26°54.006'S 153°16.908'E 35 8/04/2012 current

Figure 7.1: North Moreton - Locality plan

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Table 7.2: North Moreton - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 25/12/2011 7:00 3.9 25/12/2011 7:00 7.3

2 28/06/2012 2:30 3.2 28/06/2012 5:30 5.7

3 17/01/2012 6:30 3 22/08/2011 8:30 5.7

4 12/10/2010 13:30 3 16/01/2011 22:00 5.7

5 12/06/2012 15:30 2.9 17/01/2012 6:30 5.6

6 11/08/2010 2:00 2.9 12/06/2012 13:00 5.5

7 8/12/2011 13:30 2.8 11/10/2010 14:00 5.4

8 5/03/2012 10:00 2.7 11/08/2010 6:00 5.2

9 10/01/2011 17:00 2.7 24/11/2010 13:30 5

10 22/03/2012 18:30 2.6 5/03/2012 10:30 4.8

Table 7.3: North Moreton - Significant meteorological events

North Moreton threshold value: 2.0 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

2.5 3.9 Low [999 hPa] offshore from the Sunshine coast with winds along 8/12/2011 13:30 9.7 (2.8) (4.5) Fraser and southeast coasts

3.7 5.9 25/12/2011 7:00 12.3 Ex-Tropical Cyclone Fina / Low [992 hPa] over the southern Coral Sea (3.9) (7.3) about 265 nm east of Sandy Cape

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2.9 4.9 17/01/2012 6:30 9 Surface low [1009 hPa] off the Wide Bay coast and a high [1032 hPa] (3.0) (5.6) in the Tasman Sea

2.1 3.8 High [1020 hPa] in the Tasman Sea and a low [1001 hPa] over central 25/01/2012 11:30 8.4 (2.3) (4.6) Queensland with trough extending to NSW coast

2.4 4.3 Low [1003 hPa] located near Hervey Bay, drifting towards Sunshine 5/03/2012 10:00 8 (2.7) (4.8) Coast

2.4 3.9 22/03/2012 18:30 7.2 Trough extending from Wide Bay to the Sunshine Coast (2.6) (4.3)

2.0 3.2 Low near the coastline of Victoria extending a trough to south east 20/04/2012 12:30 10.5 (2.0) (3.1) QLD coast

2.2 3.7 28/04/2012 19:30 7.1 A low [1010 hPa] located on a trough to the north of Fraser Island (2.4) (4.2)

2.7 4.6 Low [986 hPa] about 530 kilometres east of Cape Moreton, combined 12/06/2012 15:30 12.5 (2.9) (5.5) with a high [1031 hPa] over the southern Tasman Sea

3.0 5.1 A low [1012 hPa] developing in a surface trough east of Fraser Island, 28/06/2012 2:30 9.4 combined with an eastward moving high [1030 hPa] over the western (3.2) (5.7) Tasman Sea

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

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Figure 7.2: North Moreton - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 7.3: North Moreton - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 7.4: North Moreton - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 7.5: North Moreton - Wave parameter relationships

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Figure 7.6: North Moreton - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 7.7: North Moreton - Daily wave recordings

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Figure 7.8: North Moreton - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

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Figure 7.9: North Moreton - Directional wave rose

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8. Mooloolaba

Table 8.1: Mooloolaba - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Mooloolaba 100.0 99.6 97.3 99.6 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 93.8 99.2

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Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

26°33.816'S 153°10.962'E 32 26/12/2010 13/02/2012

26°33.960'S 153°10.920'E 32 13/02/2012 current

Figure 8.1: Mooloolaba - Locality plan

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Table 8.2: Mooloolaba - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 5/03/2004 16:00 5.9 5/03/2004 15:30 12.1

2 3/03/2006 6:30 5.3 1/05/2000 18:30 10

3 1/05/2000 19:30 5.1 3/03/2006 6:30 9.2

4 24/08/2007 1:00 5.1 31/12/2007 8:00 8.9

5 30/05/2008 20:30 4.5 24/08/2007 1:30 8.5

6 30/12/2007 22:00 4.4 25/12/2011 7:30 8.4

7 25/12/2011 8:30 4.3 28/06/2012 4:30 7.9

8 28/06/2012 7:00 4.3 2/02/2001 6:00 7.6

9 24/03/2004 5:30 4.1 22/08/2011 13:00 7.6

10 12/06/2012 15:30 3.9 12/06/2012 15:30 7.5

Table 8.3: Mooloolaba - Significant meteorological events

Mooloolaba threshold value: 2.0 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

2.5 4.5 1/12/2011 18:00 7 A trough is moving north along the Southeast Queensland coast. (2.8) (5.0)

2.7 4.4 8/12/2011 11:30 9.9 Low [999 hPa] offshore from the Sunshine coast with winds along (2.8) (5.2) Fraser and southeast coasts

4.1 6.9 Ex-Tropical Cyclone Fina / Low [992 hPa] over the southern Coral Sea 25/12/2011 8:30 12.7 (4.3) (8.4) about 265 nm east of Sandy Cape

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2.0 3.4 Low [1001 hPa] in the northeast Tasman Sea, a high [1023 hPa] in the 30/12/2011 19:00 7.4 southwest Tasman, and a low [1002 hPa] in north QLD extending a (2.0) (3.1) trough to New Caledonia

3.0 4.7 Surface low [1009 hPa] off the Wide Bay coast and a high [1032 hPa] 17/01/2012 5:30 9.3 (3.1) (5.6) in the Tasman Sea

2.4 4.4 Low [994 hPa] over NW Queensland extending a trough to the west 27/01/2012 21:30 7.3 (2.6) (5.4) and east to a low [1005 hPa] over New Caledonia

2.1 3.4 4/02/2012 19:30 12.1 Low [991 hPa] east of NSW and Tropical Cyclone Jasmine over the (2.2) (3.6) Coral Sea

3.0 4.7 24/02/2012 20:30 8.8 Trough situated along the southern Queensland coast moving inland (3.1) (6.0)

3.0 5.0 Low [1003 hPa] located near Hervey Bay, drifting towards Sunshine 5/03/2012 13:00 8 (3.2) (5.7) Coast

2.2 3.6 Large high [1031 hPa] over New Zealand directing onshore winds 14/03/2012 9:30 7.7 (2.3) (4.3) along the Queensland coast.

2.2 3.7 18/03/2012 22:30 6.8 Low [1013 hPa] in the Tasman Sea extending a trough to the north (2.6) (4.2) along the QLD coastline

2.6 4.7 22/03/2012 16:00 7.4 Trough extending from Wide Bay to the Sunshine Coast (2.9) (5.0)

2.1 3.5 A high [1033 hPa] near New Zealand combined with a large low over 29/03/2012 22:30 9.8 the northern Coral Sea maintaining a tight pressure gradient along the (2.4) (4.4) central Queensland coast

2.0 3.2 Low [998 hPa] north of New Zealand combining with a high [1022 hPa] 5/04/2012 5:00 12.1 (2.1) (3.5) in the centre of the Tasman Sea

2.4 4.2 High [1038 hPa] over eastern Great Australia Bight extending a 10/04/2012 23:30 9 (2.5) (5.2) strengthening ridge along east coast of Queensland

2.1 3.4 Low [1012 hPa] near Tasmania extending a trough along the coastline 21/04/2012 8:30 10.1 (2.5) (4.4) to south east QLD

2.4 4.2 28/04/2012 20:30 7.7 A low [1010 hPa] located on a trough to the north of Fraser Island (2.5) (5.6)

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2.4 4.2 31/05/2012 11:30 8.4 A large high pressure system [1035 hPa] near the NSW coastline (2.5) (5.0) moving eastward

2.5 4.3 King tide in combination with deep low pressure system [1000 hPa] 6/06/2012 21:00 14.5 (2.8) (4.8) well off the southern QLD coast

3.5 6.1 Low [986 hPa] about 530 kilometres east of Cape Moreton, combined 12/06/2012 15:30 12.5 (3.9) (7.5) with a high [1031 hPa] over the southern Tasman Sea

3.8 6.5 A deepening low [1010 hPa] on a surface trough east of Fraser Island, 28/06/2012 7:00 10.4 (4.3) (7.9) with a high [1028 hPa] over the western Tasman Sea

2.0 3.6 A high [1036 hPa] over the eastern Tasman Sea extending a firm ridge 10/07/2012 19:30 7.5 (2.1) (3.9) along the east Queensland coast

2.3 3.7 A low pressure system [1002 hPa] in the northern Tasman Sea in 21/07/2012 8:30 12.6 (2.4) (4.2) combination with a high [1033 hPa] over South Australia

2.1 3.8 A low [984 hPa] in the Tasman Sea and a high [1035 hPa] in the Great 31/07/2012 10:30 11.1 (2.3) (4.1) Australian Bight

2.2 3.7 A large high [1028 hPa] over the Great Australian Bight moving slowly 12/08/2012 22:30 13.3 (2.5) (5.2) eastwards, with a complex low system over the southern Tasman Sea

2.3 3.9 A low [1010 hPa] in the northern Tasman Sea extending a trough 23/10/2012 0:30 6.9 (2.6) (4.5) towards central QLD

2.1 3.4 Trough running from the northern Tasman Sea to the central QLD 28/10/2012 6:00 7.6 (2.2) (4.0) coastline

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

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Figure 8.2: Mooloolaba - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 8.3: Mooloolaba - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 8.4: Mooloolaba - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 8.5: Mooloolaba - Wave parameter relationships

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Figure 8.6: Mooloolaba - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 8.7: Mooloolaba - Daily wave recordings

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Figure 8.8: Mooloolaba - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

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Figure 8.9: Mooloolaba - Directional wave rose

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9. Gladstone

Table 9.1: Gladstone - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Gladstone 99.8 87.8 75.7 56.4 99.5 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 99.6 93.2

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Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

23°53.778'S 151°30.216'E 13 21/02/2011 13/02/2012

23°53.724'S 151°30.168'E 13 13/02/2012 current

Figure 9.1: Gladstone - Locality plan

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Table 9.2: Gladstone - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 1/02/2010 20:00 3.2 1/02/2010 20:00 6.1

2 20/03/2010 10:30 2.3 20/03/2010 21:30 4.7

3 16/01/2012 22:00 2.3 16/01/2012 22:30 4.5

4 18/04/2011 14:30 2.2 4/12/2010 1:30 4.1

5 12/10/2010 12:00 2.2 12/10/2010 8:30 4

6 4/12/2010 1:30 2.1 30/01/2011 9:30 3.9

7 28/03/2011 12:00 2 28/10/2009 2:00 3.8

8 21/03/2012 22:00 2 18/04/2011 21:00 3.6

9 17/10/2011 20:00 1.9 17/10/2011 20:00 3.6

10 23/11/2010 14:30 1.9 23/11/2010 14:30 3.5

Table 9.3: Gladstone - Significant meteorological events

Gladstone threshold value: 1.0 metres (Hsig) Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

1.0 1.7 Low [1007 hPa] over Tasman Sea extending a trough towards Fraser 1/11/2011 4:00 6.7 (1.1) (2.1) Island. Also a low [1007 hPa] over central Queensland.

1.0 1.9 Large high [1030 hPa] over New Zealand directing onshore winds 29/11/2011 18:30 4.6 (1.1) (2.2) along the Queensland coast.

1.6 2.8 Trough off the Central Coast moving southwards onto Capricornia 7/12/2011 3:30 6.7 (1.7) (3.5) Coast, developing into a weak low tracking southeast

1.0 1.8 A trough situated across inland Queensland moving in an easterly 12/12/2011 16:30 5.6 (1.1) (1.9) direction into waters east of Gladstone.

1.3 2.3 Trough running from the tip of north Queensland towards New 16/12/2011 5:30 6.4 (1.4) (2.9) Caledonia.

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1.6 2.5 Ex-Tropical Cyclone Fina / Low [992 hPa] over the southern Coral Sea 24/12/2011 15:30 10.5 (1.8) (3.3) about 265 nm east of Sandy Cape

1.1 1.8 Monsoon trough running northeast from a low [1007 hPa] over New 2/01/2012 22:30 5.6 (1.2) (2.1) Caledonia, combined with a high [1022 hPa] in the Tasman Sea.

2.2 3.4 Surface low [1009 hPa] off the Wide Bay coast and a high [1032 hPa] 16/01/2012 22:00 8.5 (2.3) (4.5) in the Tasman Sea

1.3 2.0 A low [994 hPa] over north Queensland extending a trough through to 15/02/2012 20:00 5.7 (1.4) (2.7) another low [994 hPa] over New Caledonia.

1.5 2.5 Large high [1019 hPa] in the north Tasman Sea directing onshore 28/02/2012 8:00 7 (1.7) (3.4) winds along the Queensland coast.

1.1 1.9 A low [1009 hPa] located northeast of Fraser Island, in combination 3/03/2012 23:30 6.2 (1.2) (2.3) with a high [1025 hPa] in the southern Tasman Sea.

1.3 2.3 A low pressure system [1001 hPa] located approximately 240 nautical 7/03/2012 14:30 7 miles east-northeast of St Lawrence. A high [1036 hPa] south of (1.5) (3.0) Tasmania, extending a firm ridge along the south Queensland coast.

1.7 2.8 Low [998 hPa] over central QLD extending a trough to another low 21/03/2012 22:00 6.3 (2.0) (3.5) [1008 hPa] over New Caledonia

1.5 2.6 A high [1029 hPa] moving east across the Tasman Sea extends a 28/03/2012 15:00 10 (1.6) (3.2) strong ridge along much of the east Queensland coast.

1.4 2.5 A high [1032 hPa] near Victoria extends a firm ridge along the east 13/04/2012 9:30 7 (1.5) (3.1) coast of Queensland.

1.2 2.0 A surface trough with an embedded low off the Fraser and Sunshine 4/05/2012 13:00 8.2 (1.4) (2.7) Coasts 1.2 2.1 22/05/2012 3:00 6.7 A ridge of high pressure lies across southern Australia. (1.3) (2.4)

1.7 3.0 A large high pressure system [1035 hPa] near the NSW coastline 30/05/2012 13:30 7.6 (1.8) (3.4) moving eastward

1.2 2.1 A high [1033 hPa] moving east over the eastern Great Australian Bight 9/06/2012 18:00 6.8 and a deepening trough off the southern and central Queensland (1.3) (2.5) coast.

1.5 2.2 A high [1034 hPa] over the far eastern Great Australian Bight 26/06/2012 22:00 6.9 extending a ridge across southeast Australia, and a deepening trough (1.6) (2.8) off the central Queensland coast.

1.5 2.4 A high [1036 hPa] over the eastern Tasman Sea extending a firm ridge 11/07/2012 5:00 6.5 (1.6) (3.0) along the east Queensland coast

1.3 2.1 A high [1027 hPa] moving east over eastern New South Wales, and a 17/07/2012 3:00 7 (1.3) (2.6) firm ridge along the east coast of Queensland 1.0 1.7 22/07/2012 6:00 6.3 A complex low system over the northeastern Tasman Sea, and a high (1.1) (2.0) [1033 hPa] over SA extending a ridge along the QLD coastline.

Combination of a high [1023 hPa] just off the NSW coast and a low 16/09/2012 3:00 1.0 1.8 5.6 [1002 hPa] in the west Tasman Sea.

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(1.1) (2.0)

1.1 1.8 A trough lying over central QLD, and a high [1023 hPa] of the NSW 26/09/2012 0:00 5.6 (1.2) (2.1) coastline.

1.5 2.8 Trough over the central QLD coast shifting north, combined with a high 2/10/2012 15:30 7 (1.7) (3.2) [1030 hPa] over Victoria 1.0 1.7 11/10/2012 14:00 5 A strong ridge extends across the state from a large high [1033 hPa] (1.2) (1.9) moving over the Great Australian Bight

1.7 2.8 A high [1027 hPa] situated east of Victoria extends a developing ridge 23/10/2012 20:30 7.5 (1.8) (3.1) along the Queensland east coast

1.6 2.8 A high [1026 hPa] over southeastern Australia extending a firm ridge 28/10/2012 15:30 7.3 (1.7) (3.4) over southern Queensland waters

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

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Figure 9.2: Gladstone - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

Page 96 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 9.3: Gladstone - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 9.4: Gladstone - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

Page 98 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 9.5: Gladstone - Wave parameter relationships

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Figure 9.6: Gladstone - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

Page 100 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 9.7: Gladstone - Daily wave recordings

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Figure 9.8: Gladstone - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

Page 102 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 9.9: Gladstone - Directional wave rose

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10. Emu Park

Table 10.1: Emu Park - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Emu Park 99.7 99.8 100.0 100.0 91.8 99.7 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 30.5 93.5

Page 104 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

23°18.360'S 151°4.374'E 18 18/01/2011 24/04/2012

23°18.366'S 151°4.440'E 19 24/04/2012 current

Figure 10.1: Emu Park - Locality plan

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Table 10.2: Emu Park - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 1/02/2010 2:00 3.7 1/02/2010 3:30 8.2

2 28/08/1998 6:30 3.2 9/03/1997 11:30 6.9

3 4/06/2002 13:00 3.2 28/08/1998 8:00 6.4

4 9/03/1997 19:30 3.1 4/06/2002 17:30 6.4

5 20/03/2010 16:00 3 20/03/2010 12:30 5.9

6 9/03/2009 1:30 3 4/03/2003 11:30 5.9

7 23/04/2000 20:30 3 26/02/2010 1:00 5.9

8 31/05/2008 6:00 2.9 18/02/2008 14:30 5.8

9 2/03/2004 16:00 2.9 31/05/2008 6:00 5.5

10 25/01/2005 17:00 2.9 2/03/2004 16:00 5.5

Table 10.3: Emu Park - Significant meteorological events

Emu Park threshold value: 2.0 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

2.2 3.6 A large high in the Great Australian Bight extends a firm ridge along 2/12/2011 21:00 7.2 (2.3) (4.1) the southern and central Queensland coasts

2.4 4.0 17/01/2012 0:00 7 Surface low [1009 hPa] off the Wide Bay coast and a high [1032 hPa] (2.6) (4.3) in the Tasman Sea

2.0 3.6 21/03/2012 15:30 6.2 Low [995 hPa] over central QLD extending a trough to New Caledonia (2.2) (3.9)

Page 106 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

2.1 3.9 30/05/2012 19:30 6.7 A large high pressure system [1035 hPa] near the NSW coastline (2.3) (4.4) moving eastward

2.0 3.5 A high [1037 hPa] over eastern Victoria extending a firm ridge along 6/07/2012 21:00 6.5 (1.9) (3.6) the east Queensland coast

2.0 3.5 Trough over the central QLD coast shifting north, combined with a high 2/10/2012 23:00 6.5 (2.1) (4.1) [1030 hPa] over Victoria

2.1 3.8 A high [1026 hPa] over southeastern Australia extending a firm ridge 28/10/2012 15:30 7.1 (2.2) (4.1) over southern Queensland waters

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

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Figure 10.2: Emu Park - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

Page 108 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 10.3: Emu Park - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 10.4: Emu Park - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

Page 110 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 10.5: Emu Park - Wave parameter relationships

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Figure 10.6: Emu Park - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

Page 112 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 10.7: Emu Park - Daily wave recordings

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Figure 10.8: Emu Park - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

Page 114 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 10.9: Emu Park - Directional wave rose

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11. Hay Point

Table 11.1: Hay Point - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Hay Point 99.7 100.0 100.0 100.0 99.8 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0

Page 116 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

21°16.278'S 149°18.570'E 10 11/08/2011 27/11/2011

21°16.254'S 149°18.558'E 10 27/11/2011 current

Figure 11.1: Hay Point - Locality plan

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Table 11.2: Hay Point - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 21/03/2010 1:30 4 10/03/1997 10:00 6.8

2 9/03/1997 20:00 3.1 21/03/2010 4:30 6.3

3 31/01/2010 7:30 2.8 24/02/1996 2:00 5.6

4 16/02/2008 17:30 2.8 17/02/2008 21:00 5.4

5 1/02/1978 3:00 2.6 10/02/1999 18:00 5.3

6 29/08/1998 18:00 2.5 19/01/2004 18:00 5

7 24/01/2005 23:30 2.5 26/12/2007 0:30 5

8 1/02/2007 22:30 2.4 22/03/1994 19:00 4.8

9 3/05/2000 5:30 2.4 3/03/2004 21:00 4.7

10 19/01/2004 19:30 2.4 31/01/2010 6:30 4.7

Table 11.3: Hay Point - Significant meteorological events

Hay Point threshold value: 1.5 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

1.6 2.9 A large high [1031 hPa] in the Great Australian Bight extends a firm 3/12/2011 18:30 5.9 (1.7) (3.2) ridge along the southern and central Queensland coasts

1.6 3.0 15/01/2012 0:30 6 A low [1003 hPa] over central Queensland extending a trough to the (1.7) (3.3) south into NSW.

1.8 3.2 Low [1013 hPa] in the Tasman Sea extending a trough to the north 18/03/2012 23:30 6.8 (2.0) (3.9) along the QLD coastline

Page 118 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

1.7 2.9 A high [1025 hPa] moving east over the Great Australian Bight 26/03/2012 2:00 6.2 extending a strengthening ridge along much of the east Queensland (1.9) (3.3) coast

1.9 3.1 A high [1035 hPa] west of Tasmania extending a firm ridge along the 12/04/2012 3:30 6.4 (2.1) (4.0) east coast of Queensland

1.6 2.7 A large high pressure system [1035 hPa] near the NSW coastline 30/05/2012 19:00 6.1 (1.7) (3.2) moving eastward

1.9 3.2 2/10/2012 21:30 6.1 Trough over the central QLD coast shifting north, combined with a high (2.0) (4.0) [1030 hPa] over Victoria

1.6 2.7 A high [1027 hPa] situated east of Victoria extends a developing ridge 23/10/2012 18:00 6.3 (1.7) (3.6) along the Queensland east coast

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

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Figure 11.2: Hay Point - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

Page 120 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 11.3: Hay Point - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 11.4: Hay Point - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

Page 122 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 11.5: Hay Point - Wave parameter relationships

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Figure 11.6: Hay Point - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

Page 124 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 11.7: Hay Point - Daily wave recordings

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Figure 11.8: Hay Point - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

Page 126 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 11.9: Hay Point - Directional wave rose

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12. Mackay

Table 12.1: Mackay - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Mackay 83.3 94.8 98.5 97.0 87.9 87.7 72.0 61.7 63.5 97.3 96.2 95.6 86.3

Page 128 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

21°2.376'S 149°32.748'E 28 24/03/2011 27/11/2011

21°2.400'S 149°32.718'E 28 27/11/2011 18/09/2012

21°2.352'S 149°32.700'E 33 18/09/2012 current

Figure 12.1: Mackay - Locality plan

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Table 12.2: Mackay - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 20/03/2010 22:30 5.7 21/03/2010 0:00 9.4

2 10/03/1997 0:00 4.8 9/03/1997 11:00 8.5

3 1/03/1979 3:00 4 8/03/2009 17:00 7.7

4 27/12/1990 3:41 3.9 19/01/2004 19:30 7.5

5 5/06/2002 0:00 3.8 4/03/2002 15:00 7.3

6 19/01/2004 19:30 3.6 17/02/2008 19:30 7.1

7 17/02/2008 19:30 3.6 5/06/2002 1:00 6.9

8 12/01/1979 3:00 3.6 26/12/2007 1:30 6.9

9 18/03/2012 23:30 3.5 9/05/1996 19:30 6.8

10 4/04/1989 17:54 3.5 19/03/2006 19:00 6.8

Table 12.3: Mackay - Significant meteorological events

Mackay threshold value: 2.0 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

2.1 3.5 A large high [1031 hPa] in the Great Australian Bight extends a firm 3/12/2011 22:30 6.8 (2.2) (4.1) ridge along the southern and central Queensland coasts

2.1 3.6 6/12/2011 6:00 7.3 A trough lies off the central and northeast coast of Queensland, while a (2.4) (4.6) high near Tasmania extends a ridge over southern coastal waters.

2.5 4.2 Combination of a high [1031 hPa] near New Zealand, and Ex-tropical 22/12/2011 20:30 7.2 (2.8) (5.0) Cyclone Fina in the central Coral Sea

Page 130 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

2.0 3.5 Monsoon trough lies across the far north of the state, near Cape 31/12/2011 15:30 6.5 Grenville. A ridge of high pressure extends along the east coast of (1.9) (3.2) Queensland from a slow moving high [1023 hPa] in the Tasman Sea

2.1 4.1 A low [1003 hPa] over central Queensland extending a trough to the 15/01/2012 2:00 6.9 (2.4) (4.7) south into NSW.

3.0 5.1 Low [1013 hPa] in the Tasman Sea extending a trough to the north 18/03/2012 23:30 7.2 (3.5) (5.9) along the QLD coastline

2.3 3.9 A high [1025 hPa] moving east over the Great Australian Bight 26/03/2012 9:30 7.7 extending a strengthening ridge along much of the east Queensland (2.7) (4.9) coast

2.9 4.7 A high [1035 hPa] west of Tasmania extending a firm ridge along the 12/04/2012 10:00 7.1 (2.9) (5.2) east coast of Queensland

2.1 3.8 A high [1028 hPa] near Victoria extends a ridge along the east 16/05/2012 10:30 6.5 (2.2) (4.1) Queensland coast

2.6 4.4 A large high pressure system [1035 hPa] near the NSW coastline 30/05/2012 18:30 7.3 (2.8) (5.2) moving eastward

2.0 3.4 A high [1037 hPa] over eastern Victoria extending a firm ridge along 6/07/2012 14:00 6.9 (2.1) (3.4) the east Queensland coast

2.0 3.6 A low [1002 hPa] over the northeastern Tasman Sea, and a high [1032 22/07/2012 13:30 6.8 (2.3) (3.9) hPa] over Victoria extending a ridge along the QLD coastline.

2.8 4.3 Trough over the central QLD coast shifting north, combined with a high 2/10/2012 21:00 7.4 (3.1) (6.1) [1030 hPa] over Victoria

2.3 3.8 A high [1027 hPa] situated north east of Victoria extends a ridge along 24/10/2012 5:00 7.3 the Queensland east coast. A low [1005 hPa] is also situated in the (2.3) (4.4) northern Tasman sea.

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

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Figure 12.2: Mackay - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

Page 132 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 12.3: Mackay - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

Page 133 of 179 Science Delivery

Figure 12.4: Mackay - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

Page 134 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 12.5: Mackay - Wave parameter relationships

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Figure 12.6: Mackay - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

Page 136 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 12.7: Mackay - Daily wave recordings

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Figure 12.8: Mackay - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

Page 138 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 12.9: Mackay - Directional wave rose

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13. Townsville

Table 13.1: Townsville - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Townsville 100.0 100.0 99.7 100.0 100.0 100.0 88.7 100.0 94.2 100.0 98.2 100.0 98.4

Page 140 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

19°9.582'S 147°3.456'E 16 9/12/2010 5/06/2012

19°9.624'S 147°3.504'E 16 5/06/2012 current

Figure 13.1: Townsville - Locality plan

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Table 13.2: Townsville - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 3/02/2011 1:30 5.5 3/02/2011 1:00 10.1

2 13/01/2009 8:00 3.7 13/01/2009 7:30 6.6

3 24/03/1997 2:00 3.6 24/03/1997 3:00 6

4 30/01/2010 22:30 3 10/01/1998 15:00 5.4

5 23/12/1990 9:27 3 20/03/2006 8:00 5.3

6 10/01/1998 15:00 2.9 30/01/2010 20:30 5.2

7 20/03/2006 8:00 2.9 11/02/1999 18:30 5.1

8 3/03/1979 3:00 2.8 1/02/1986 20:49 4.9

9 11/02/2008 19:00 2.7 22/10/1996 21:30 4.9

10 28/02/1980 3:00 2.7 5/01/1979 15:00 4.7

Table 13.3: Townsville - Significant meteorological events

Townsville threshold value: 1.5 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

1.5 2.8 A large high [1031 hPa] in the Great Australian Bight extends a firm 4/12/2011 0:30 6.2 (1.6) (3.2) ridge along the southern and central Queensland coasts

1.6 2.8 A large high [1026 hPa] near Tasmania, directing onshore winds as far 17/12/2011 20:30 6 north as the northern tip of Queensland. A trough also lies north east (1.7) (3.2) in the coral sea.

1.5 2.6 1/01/2012 0:00 6.6 Monsoon trough lies across the far north of the state, near Cape (1.5) (2.3) Grenville. A ridge of high pressure extends along the east coast of

Page 142 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Queensland from a slow moving high [1023 hPa] in the Tasman Sea

1.6 2.9 A large high [1025 hPa] centred in the Tasman Sea directing onshore 13/03/2012 0:30 6.3 (1.8) (3.6) winds along the Queensland coastline.

2.1 3.4 A high in the Tasman Sea extends a ridge along the southern and 20/03/2012 22:00 6.3 central east coast of Queensland. The monsoon trough lies near (2.2) (4.2) Bowen.

2.0 3.3 12/04/2012 16:30 6.4 A high [1035 hPa] west of Tasmania extending a firm ridge along the (2.1) (3.7) east coast of Queensland

1.7 3.1 1/06/2012 0:30 6.6 A large high [1034 hPa] over the Tasman Sea. (1.8) (3.5)

1.5 2.7 A high [1037 hPa] over eastern Victoria extending a firm ridge along 6/07/2012 20:00 5.4 (1.6) (2.9) the east Queensland coast

1.8 3.0 A high [1036 hPa] over the eastern Tasman Sea extending a firm ridge 11/07/2012 7:00 7.5 along the east Queensland coast. Winds strengthened by weak trough (1.9) (3.5) developing off tropical QLD coast.

1.8 3.0 Trough over the central QLD coast shifting north, combined with a high 3/10/2012 0:30 6.6 (1.9) (3.9) [1030 hPa] over Victoria

1.5 2.7 A high [1027 hPa] over the Tasman Sea extends a firm ridge along the 15/10/2012 21:00 6.2 (1.6) (3.0) east coast of Queensland.

1.7 2.9 A high [1027 hPa] situated north east of Victoria extends a ridge along 24/10/2012 3:00 7.1 the Queensland east coast. A low [1005 hPa] is also situated in the (1.8) (3.6) northern Tasman sea.

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

Page 143 of 179 Science Delivery

Figure 13.2: Townsville - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

Page 144 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 13.3: Townsville - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 13.4: Townsville - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

Page 146 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 13.5: Townsville - Wave parameter relationships

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Figure 13.6: Townsville - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

Page 148 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 13.7: Townsville - Daily wave recordings

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Figure 13.8: Townsville - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

Page 150 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Figure 13.9: Townsville - Directional wave rose

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14. Cairns

Table 14.1: Cairns - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Cairns 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 46.4 33.3 100.0 100.0 100.0 98.1 100.0 100.0 89.8

Page 152 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

16°44.058'S 145°42.600'E 12.5 8/08/2011 20/04/2012

16°44.010'S 145°42.594'E 12.5 20/04/2012 current

Figure 14.1: Cairns - Locality plan

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Table 14.2: Cairns - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 27/02/2000 21:30 2.8 28/02/2000 1:00 5

2 11/02/1999 21:00 2.5 11/02/1999 22:00 4.6

3 3/02/2011 4:30 2.4 23/12/1990 20:54 4.5

4 23/12/1990 20:54 2.2 3/02/2011 4:00 4.1

5 19/03/1990 8:42 1.9 12/01/2009 7:00 3.4

6 31/01/1977 9:00 1.9 3/01/1979 3:00 3.3

7 12/01/2009 7:00 1.9 4/03/2008 23:30 3.3

8 3/01/1979 3:00 1.8 31/01/1977 9:00 3.2

9 11/02/2004 6:00 1.6 26/04/2000 1:00 3.2

10 27/04/2000 4:00 1.6 18/03/2004 22:30 3.1

Table 14.3: Cairns - Significant meteorological events

Cairns threshold value: 1.0 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

1.1 1.8 A large high [1021 hPa] near Tasmania extending a ridge up into north 10/03/2012 18:00 4.5 (1.2) (2.3) Queensland

1.0 1.8 13/03/2012 8:00 4.3 A large high [1025 hPa] centred in the Tasman Sea directing onshore (1.2) (2.3) winds along the Queensland coastline.

1.1 1.9 A ridge of higher pressure occurs across southern australia with 21/05/2012 9:30 4.4 (1.2) (2.3) intensifying SE'ly flow across the tropics

Page 154 of 179 Wave data recording program: Queensland wave climate annual summary for season 2011/2012

1.1 2.0 28/05/2012 15:30 4.5 A high [1034 hPa] over the Great Australian Bight extending a firm (1.2) (2.4) ridge across much of Queensland.

1.0 1.7 A large high [1033 hPa] over South Australia extends a ridge across 24/06/2012 17:30 4.2 (1.0) (1.7) northern New South Wales.

1.1 1.9 A high [1034 hPa] over the eastern Great Australian Bight extends a 4/07/2012 15:00 4.4 (1.1) (2.1) firm ridge across central Australia and southern Queensland.

1.1 1.9 A large high [1032 hPa] over the western Great Australia Bight extends 28/07/2012 16:00 4.3 (1.1) (2.2) a ridge over Western Queensland

1.1 2.1 A high [1028 hPa] over the Tasman Sea extends a firm ridge up the 3/10/2012 13:00 4.6 (1.2) (2.4) east coast of Queensland.

1.0 1.8 A high [1027 hPa] over the Tasman Sea extends a firm ridge along the 15/10/2012 15:00 4.2 (1.1) (1.9) east coast of Queensland.

1.1 2.0 A high in the Tasman Sea extends a firm ridge along the east 24/10/2012 11:00 4.9 (1.2) (2.5) Queensland coast.

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

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Figure 14.2: Cairns - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 14.3: Cairns - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 14.4: Cairns - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 14.5: Cairns - Wave parameter relationships

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Figure 14.6: Cairns - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 14.7: Cairns - Daily wave recordings

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15. Albatross Bay

Table 15.1: Albatross Bay - Percentage data capture for 2011/2012 season

Station Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Average

Albatross Bay 99.0 99.8 100.0 99.1 94.9 97.4 99.6 99.4 99.8 99.5 99.8 98.9 98.9

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Latitude Longitude Depth (m) Deployed date Removal date

12°41.292'S 141°41.076'E 9 17/06/2011 current

Figure 15.1: Albatross Bay - Locality plan

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Table 15.2: Albatross Bay - Highest waves

Rank Date (Hs) Hs (m) Date (Hmax) Hmax (m)

1 12/01/2009 0:00 3.5 11/01/2009 23:30 5.7

2 30/01/2010 3:00 3.3 30/01/2010 5:30 5.5

3 2/02/2012 8:30 2.7 3/02/2012 9:00 5.1

4 19/03/2012 2:30 2.6 18/03/2012 19:30 4.3

5 29/12/2011 17:30 2.4 22/01/2011 6:00 4.2

6 22/01/2011 1:00 2.3 2/02/2009 9:30 4

7 2/02/2009 11:00 2 29/12/2011 18:00 3.8

8 11/01/2011 4:00 2 27/12/2010 19:00 3.6

9 27/12/2010 22:00 1.8 11/01/2011 4:00 3.6

10 25/05/2012 10:30 1.8 1/04/2010 20:00 3.1

Table 15.3: Albatross Bay - Significant meteorological events

Albatross Bay threshold value: 1.0 metres (Hsig)

Hs Hmax Tp Date Event (m) (m) (s)

2.1 3.5 Ex-Tropical Cyclone Grant located over the eastern Gulf of 29/12/2011 17:30 8.6 (2.4) (3.8) Carpentaria.

2.4 4.0 The monsoon trough extends over the southern to 2/02/2012 8:30 8.5 a low [995 hPa] just offshore northwest of Kowanyama and then to the (2.7) (5.1) North Tropical Coast near Cairns

2.3 3.7 A low [993 hPa] about 40 nautical miles north northeast of Karumba 19/03/2012 2:30 8.7 (2.6) (4.3) and 105 nautical miles east of Mornington Island.

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1.7 2.8 A large high [1031 hPa] over southern Western Australia moving into 25/05/2012 10:30 9.9 the Great Australian Bight, maintaining a firm ridge into western (1.8) (3.0) Queensland and Gulf of Carpentaria waters

1.0 1.7 Large low [996 hPa] near Western Australia in combination with a 3/06/2012 21:00 5.8 (1.1) (2.0) trough running from the Coral Sea down to Victorian coastline.

1.1 2.0 A large high over South Australia extends a ridge across New South 24/06/2012 5:30 7.8 (1.2) (2.4) Wales, strengthening winds through Gulf of Carpentaria waters.

1.1 1.8 28/07/2012 7:30 7.4 A high [1031 hPa] moving eastwards over Western Australia (1.1) (2.0) maintaining a firm ridge across southern Gulf waters.

Denotes peak Hsig event

Notes: 1. Barometric pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa). The Hsig and Hmax values are the maximums recorded for each event and are not necessarily coincident in time. The Tp and Hsig values are coincident as a single event on the date shown. Due to possible statistical errors arising from finite length records used in calculating wave climate, the above storm peak Hsig and Hmax values are derived from the time series smoothed by a simple three hourly moving average following the recommendation of the literature (Forristall, Heideman, Leggett, Roskam, & Vanderschuren, 1996).

2. Hsig and Hmax values shown in brackets are unsmoothed values as recorded at the site.

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Figure 15.2: Albatross Bay - Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 15.3: Albatross Bay - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp)

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Figure 15.4: Albatross Bay - Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 15.5: Albatross Bay - Wave parameter relationships

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Figure 15.6: Albatross Bay - Plot of monthly averages for seasonal year and for all data, for wave heights (Hsig)

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Figure 15.7: Albatross Bay - Daily wave recordings

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Figure 15.8: Albatross Bay - Sea surface temperature and peak wave directions

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Figure 15.9: Albatross Bay - Directional wave rose

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16. References

Allan, J., & Komar, P. (2001). Wave climate change and coastal erosion in the US Pacific Northwest. Proceedings of the 4th Conference on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (pp. 680-690). San Francisco: ASCE.

Australian Hydrographic Service. (2011). Australian National Tide Tables.

Bacon, S., & Carter, D. (1991). Wave climate changes in the North Atlantic. Int. J. Climatol , 545-558.

Datawell. (2000). Operations and Service Manual for Directional Waverider. Haarlem, Netherlands.

Datawell. (2010). Datawell Waverider Reference Manual WR-SG; DWR-MkIII, DWR-G. Haarlem, Netherlands.

Forristall, G., Heideman, J., Leggett, I., Roskam, B., & Vanderschuren, L. (1996). Effect of Sampling Variability on Hindcast and Measured Wave Heights. Journal of Waterway, Port, Costal and Ocean Engineering, Vol 122, No. 5 , 216-225.

Permanent International Association of Navigation Congresses. (1986). List of Sea State Parameters. Brussels, Belgium.

Queensland Transport. (2011). The Official Tide Tables & Boating Safety Guide .

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Other published wave data reports in this series

Cairns Region Report No. W01.1 2 May 1975 to 3 Sep 19 78 Cairns Region Report No. W01.2 2 May 1975 to 11 Jun 1985 Cairns Region Report No. W01.3 2 May 1975 to 30 Apr 1997 Mackay Region Report No. W0 2.1 17 Sep 1975 to 5 Nov 1976 Mackay Region Report No. W0 2.2 17 Sep 1975 to 23 Aug 1985 Mackay Region Report No. W0 2.3 17 Sept 1975 to 30 Oct 1996 Townsville Region Report No. W03.1 16 Jul 1975 to 23 Feb 1979 Townsville Region Report No. W03.2 19 Nov 1975 to 29 Dec 1987 Sunshine Coast Region Report No.W04.1 5 Apr 1974 to 5 Jul 1977 Burnett Heads Region Report No. W05. 1 5 May 1976 to 5 Mar 1982 Burnett Heads Region Report No. W05.2 5 May 1976 to 13 Oct 1988 Abbot Point Region Report No. W06. 1 6 May 1977 to 9 Aug 1979 Abbot Point Region Report No. W06.2 6 May 1977 to 31 Oct 1996 Weipa Region Report No. W07.1 21 Dec 1978 to 7 Apr 19 83 Weipa Region Report No. W07.2 21 Dec 1978 to 30 Apr 1997 Gladstone Region Report No. W08.1 19 Dec 1979 to 16 May 1983 Brisbane Region Report No. W09. 1 30 Oc t 1976 to 30 Jun 1983 Brisbane Region Report No. W09.2 30 Oct 1976 to 30 Jun 19 94 Brisbane Region Report No. W09.3 30 Oct 1976 to 28 Feb 1997 Bowen Region Report No. W10.1 14 Sept 1978 to 15 Nov 1984 Moreton Island Region Report No.W11.1 15 Jun 1983 to 12 Apr 1985 Bramston Beach Region Report No.W12.1 16 Dec 1981 to 28 Oct 1985 Hay Point Region Report No. W13. 1 22 Mar 1977 to 25 May 1987 Hay Point Region Report No. W13.2 22 Mar 1977 to 31 Oct 1996 Gold Coast Region Report No. W14. 1 20 Feb 1987 to 30 Jun 19 94 Gold Coast Region Report No. W14.2 20 Feb 1987 to 28 Feb 1997 Kirra Report No. W15.1 25 Aug 1988 to 30 Jun 1994 Kirra Report No. W15.2 25 Aug 1988 to 28 Feb 1997 Repulse Bay Report No. W16.1 2 Jun 1994 to 22 Oct 1995 Hayman Island Report No. W17.1 26 Oct 1995 to 14 Oct 1996 Tweed Region Report No. W18.1 15 Jan 1995 to 28 Feb 1997 Lucinda Report No. W19.1 2 Mar 1995 to 13 May 1996 Dunk Island Report No. 2004.2 13 Jan 1995 – 30 May 2004 Weipa Report No. 2004.5 23 Dec 1978 – 31 Jan 2004 Annual summary for season 2000 –01 Report No. 2004.3 1 Nov 2000 – 31 Oct 2001 Annual summary for season 2001 –02 Report No. 2004.4 1 Nov 2001 – 31 Oct 2002 Annual summary for season 2002 –03 Report No. 2004.1 1 Nov 2002 – 31 Oct 2003 Annual summary for season 2003 –04 Report No. 2004.6 1 Nov 2003 – 31 Oct 2004 Annual summary for season 2004 –05 DRAFT Report No. 2006.1 1 Nov 2004 – 31 Oct 2005 Annual summary for season 2005 –06 DRAFT Report No. 2006.2 1 Nov 2005 – 31 Oct 2006 Annual summary for season 2006 –07 DRAFT Report No. 2007.2 1 Nov 2006 – 31 Oct 2007 Annual summary for season 2007 –08 DRAFT Report No. 2008.1 1 Nov 2007 – 31 Oct 2008 Annual summary for season 2008 –09 DRAFT Report No. 2009.1 1 Nov 2008 – 31 Oct 2009 Annu al summary for season 2009 –10 DRAFT Report No. 2010.1 1 Nov 2009 – 31 Oct 2010 Annual summary for season 2010 –11 DRAFT Report No. 201 1.1 1 Nov 20 10 – 31 Oct 201 1 Tweed Heads Wave Climate Summary 2006 -2007 Report No. 2007.1 01 May 2006 – 30 April 2007

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Tweed Heads Wave Climate Summary 2007 -2008 Report No. 2008.1 01 May 2007 – 30 April 2008 Tweed Heads Wave Climate Summary 2008 -2009 Report No. 2009.1 01 May 2008 – 30 April 2009 Tweed Heads Wave Climate Summary 2009-2010 Report No. 2010.1 01 May 2009 – 30 April 2010

Tweed Heads Wave Climate Summary 2010-2011 Report No. 2011.1 01 May 2010 – 30 April 2011

Tweed Heads Wave Climate Summary 2011-2012 Report No. 2012.1 01 May 2011 – 30 April 2012

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Appendix A Zero up-crossing analysis

Appendix B Glossary of Terms

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Parameter Description

Hs The significant wave height (in metres), defined as the average of the highest one-third of the zero up-crossing wave heights in a 26.6-minute wave record. This wave height closely approximates the value a person would observe by eye. Significant wave heights are the values reported by the Bureau of Meteorology in their forecasts.

THsig The average period of the highest one-third of zero up-crossing wave heights

Hrms Root mean square wave height from the time domain

Hmax The maximum zero up-crossing wave height (in metres) in a 26.6-minute record.

Tc The average crest period (in seconds) in a 26.6-minute record.

Tz The average of the zero up-crossing wave periods (in seconds) in a 26.6-minute record.

H10 Average of the highest 10 percent of all waves in a record

TH10 The period of the H10 waves

THmax Period of maximum height, zero up-crossing

Tzmax The maximum zero crossing in a record

Hm0 m Estimate of the significant wave height from frequency domain 4 0

T0 2 m m Average period from spectral moments zero and two, defined by 0 2

Tp Wave period at the peak spectral energy (in seconds). This is an indication of the wave period of those waves that are producing the most energy in a wave record. Depending on the value of Tp, waves could either be caused by local wind fields (sea) or have come from distant storms and have moved away from their source of generation (swell).

Dir_p Direction the Peak Period waves are coming from (in ° TRUE)

HAT HIGHEST ASTRONOMICAL TIDE is the highest water level which can be predicted to occur at a particular site under average weather conditions. This level may not be reached every year.

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AHD AUSTRALIAN HEIGHT DATUM is the reference level used by the Bureau of Meteorology in Storm Tide Warnings. AHD is very close to the average level of the sea over a long period (preferably 18.6 years), or the level of the sea in the absence of tides.

Wave The increase in mean water level above the SWL towards the shoreline caused by wave action in the surf zone. The amount of rise of the mean water level depends on wave setup height and beach slope such that setup increases with increasing wave height and increasing beach steepness. It can be very important during storm events as it results in a further increase in water level above the tide and surge levels.

Astronomical Or more simply, the tide, is the periodic rise and fall of water along the coast because of tide gravitational attraction on the water by the moon and sun. When the moon, sun and earth are in line their combined attraction is strongest and the tide range is greater (spring tides). When the moon and sun are at right angles to each other (in relation to the earth) the effect of the attraction is somewhat reduced and the tide range is smaller (neap tides).

Predicted The tide expected to occur under average meteorological conditions. Tide predictions are typically based on previous actual tide readings gathered over a long period (usually tide one year or more). The sun, moon and earth are not in the same relative position from year to year. Accordingly, the gravitational forces that generate the tides, and the tides themselves, are not the same each year.

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