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ETHIOPIA: Birding the Roof of Africa

ETHIOPIA: Birding the Roof of Africa

: Birding the Roof of Africa

A Tropical Birding Set Departure

February 12—March 1, 2014 Guide: Ken Behrens

All photos taken during this trip by Ken Behrens unless noted otherwise

TOUR SUMMARY

This was the new version of our set-departure trip, designed to take in virtually all of Ethiopia’s endemics in just 17 days of birding, plus arrival and departure days. Instead of offering the south only as an extension, we have included it in the main tour. This is both because the itinerary makes sense run in this way, and because few people want to miss the of the south such as the Prince Ruspoli’s Turaco. This shortened itinerary proved to be very well designed, though definitely fast-paced. We racked up 515 of birds and 43 mammals in just 17 days of birding. As usual, this haul included virtually all of the Ethiopian and Abyssinian (shared with ) endemics. Among these, highlights included hefty Blue-winged Goose, elusive Harwood’s Francolin, dapper Spot-breasted Lapwing, stunning White-cheeked and Prince Ruspoli’s Turacos, diminutive Abyssinian , Black-winged Lovebird, Yellow-fronted Parrot, extremely rare Sidamo Lark, nutcracker-like Stresemann’s Bush-Crow, White-tailed Swallow, and melodious songster Abyssinian Catbird.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 But endemics are only part of the picture in Ethiopia. It also offers excellent general African birding, from abundant Palearctic migrants, to forest species, to teeming Rift Valley wetlands, to Somali-Masai biome birds in the dry lowlands. Non-endemic prizes included Vulturine Guineafowl, Clapperton’s Francolin, Secretary-, Lammergeier, massive monkey-eating Crowned Hawk-Eagle, Arabian and Hartlaub’s , Black Crowned-Crane, 3 species of sandgrouse, rare White-winged Collared-Dove, massive Cape Eagle-Owl, African Long-eared Owl, Donaldson-Smith’s and Star-spotted Nightajars, Half-collared Kingfisher, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill (by the dozens), Double-toothed Barbet, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Pygmy Falcon, Pringle’s Puffback, Red-naped , African Spotted-Creeper, extremely local Boran , Yellow-vented Eremomela, Black Scrub-Robin, Abyssinian Ground-Thrush, and Nile Valley . Finally, it must be said that birds are only a part of the pleasure in travelling in Ethiopia. It is a spectacularly beautiful mountainous country, and many parts of it seem frozen in time and much as they were in the middle ages. Ethiopian cuisine is delicious, and most people find dining an unexpected pleasure in a country that is internationally stereotyped as a land of starvation! Doro wot, tibs, and “fasting food” usually rank among the favorites of visitors. Accommodation has always been the “Achilles Heel” of Ethiopia; many potential visitors didn’t want to deal with the poor hotels that we formerly had to use in some locations. The great news is that Ethiopian hotels are improving at a remarkable rate. This can be demonstrated concretely by a look at the hotels that we now use on our set-departure tour. We stay in 12 different hotels during the 19- day tour. Half of these are brand new or fairly new, ranging from only a few months old to about Handsome endemic Abyssinian Siskin.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 10 years old. Two lodges have recently been completely renovated, while one is in the process of expanding and renovating. Only three of the hotels are more than 10 years old. Ethiopia’s hotel boom has been going on for some time, with the accommodations on a birding tour steadily improving. But until recently, there was still one place on a birding tour where you still had to endure two nights in a horrible hotel: the southern town of Negele. That town’s Green Motel was a byword among birders; a hotel so bad that it was legendary! It was so bad that I once had a whole tour group make shirts (green of course) after the trip that read “I survived the Green Motel”! For many people, the prospect of the Green Motel was enough to dissuade them from taking a birding tour to Ethiopia. I am happy to report that within the last year, not one but THREE new hotels have opened in Negele. All of them are comfortable, with hot water and decent beds. What this means, is that it’s possible to do a full birding tour of Ethiopia without staying in a basic hotel. To be sure, Ethiopia is not yet on the same level as destinations like and , where you can stay at excellent lodges for the duration of a tour. But it certainly doesn’t deserve the dire reputation that it still maintains. These days, Ethiopia’s birding tour accommodations are easily on par with those of more-visited countries like or . Ethiopia has always been a wonderful destination for its abundant endemic birds and mammals, beautiful mountain landscapes, fascinating history, and friendly people. Thankfully, it is quickly becoming a destination that allows people to experience these wonders while staying in very nice lodges and hotels. Already, it is possible to do a birding tour

Yellow-breasted Barbet is a bird of far northern Africa Ethiopia without that just gets into Ethiopia.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 spending one night in a bad hotel. If you have ever crossed Ethiopia off your list of possible trips due to the idea that its hotels were diabolical, think again! All the participants gathered in Addis Ababa, at the Ghion Hotel, which is famous among birders for its extensive and beautiful grounds. Some people were lucky enough to strike early, finding an Abyssinian Woodpecker right in the garden! During an afternoon walk, the completed group found an excellent variety of birds around the hotel, including a surprising -over Mountain Buzzard, Nyanza , Banded Barbet, Lanner Falcon, Brown Warbler (Parisoma), Tacazze Sunbird, and Yellow-bellied Waxbill. Early the next morning found us striking out across the plateau north of Addis Ababa, where we would spend the day birding the open plains, and forest and scrub along the edge of the Jemmu Valley. The Suluta Plain is a high-elevation that holds a variety of wintering Palearctic and locally breeding birds. Although it is filling up with people and houses at an alarming rate, it still holds a lot of birds. A baby Gelada Baboon near the Portuguese Bridge. Here we found Blue-winged Photo by Alan McBride. Goose, Wattled Ibis, Abyssinian Longclaw, Erlanger’s Lark, and Ortolan . The late morning’s location was the small side valley that holds the monastery of Debre Libanos Ð one of the holiest sites for the Ethiopian Orthodox church. While the lingering presence of the namesake saint may be disputed, the presence of many interesting and range-restricted bird species is undeniable. We found White-cheeked Turaco, Dark-headed Oriole, White-backed Black-Tit, and Abyssinian Woodpecker. Our morning had been so good that we had time for a siesta before doing some afternoon birding. Birding until dusk at the Portuguese Bridge, we added Mocking and White-winged Cliff-Chats, Little Rock Thrush, and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, as well as a small

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 group of the well-known Gelada Baboon. The escarpment edge near the Portuguese Bridge closely resembles the area where the Geladas were filmed for the TV series Planet Earth. This spot offers spectacular in a spectacular setting, and is not to be soon forgotten by anyone who loves the natural world. At this spot, we also picked up a major bird bonus, an Ankober Serin, which has been seen only a handful of times at this site. We woke up extremely early, and headed for the Jemmu Valley. Along the way, we enjoyed some incredible spotlight sightings: Grayish Eagle-Owl, Golden Jackal, Bat-eared Fox, White- tailed Mongoose, Spotted Hyaena, and African Wild Cat. Our main target on this day was Harwood’s Francolin Ð one of the Ethiopian endemics with the smallest range, and certainly one of the most difficult to see. Thankfully, the people who live in the valley have clued into the desires of birders, and now use great skill and enthusiasm to locate the bird for us. As usual, we enjoyed excellent view of this beautiful francolin Fox Kestrel, a scarce bird that is beautiful and elegant in flight. before eating a field breakfast, though not without some edging up and down a steep slope. We also spotted Erckel’s Francolin, White-billed , Verreaux’s Eagle, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Long-billed Pipit, and Red-collared Widowbird. After that great start, the rest of the day was spent at the bottom of the Jemmu Valley Ð an area that has an odd mix of species - highland birds, lowland birds, and a handful of birds normally found farther west in Ethiopia. The birding was excellent, with highlights including Fox Kestrel, Green-backed Eremomela, Vinaceous Dove, Eurasian Wryneck, Black-headed , Woodchat , Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Foxy Cisticola, Rufous-tailed and Blue Rock- Thrushes, Lesser Blue-eared Glossy-Starling, and big numbers of Chestnut-crowned Sparrow- Weavers and Speckle-fronted Weavers. Late in the afternoon, we made the drive up out of the Jemmu and across the plateau to the town of Debre Birhan. This is one of the most beautiful

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 drives in all of Ethiopia, and one that I greatly enjoy every time. Along the way, we spotted a Lammergeier that flew just over our heads, shooting the edge of the escarpment. On the next day, we headed to Ankober. Upon arriving, we had some lunch, then did some birding. A Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler and some Abyssinian Catbirds responded to tape, and were eventually seen well by most. An Abyssinian Woodpecker came as a surprise. The lodge made a perfect place for some mid-day relaxation. Perched on the edge of the escarpment, it offers spectacular views, a fresh breeze, and a variety of raptors circling overhead. To the north, the Ankober escarpment (and most of the range of the Ankober Serin) is visible, and to the east lies the vastness of the Afar planes, where we would journey the following day. The late afternoon and evening were spent at Mhelka Gebdu, in the foothills below Ankober. This was our first chance on the trip to see many of the common acacia savanna birds of Ethiopia, including White-bellied Go-away-bird, Rufous Chatterer, and Rueppell’s Weaver. Other highlights included Black Stork, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Gray-headed Kingfisher, several Yellow-breasted Barbets, nesting Northern , and Red-headed Weaver. The main reason for visiting this site is to see the drab but rare Yellow-throated Serin, which we managed to locate quite quickly. The next day was spent traversing the Afar plains, one of the most exciting and adventurous days on any Tropical Birding tour. When there is rain, it is impossible to

cross the plain, It was great fun to watch this dinky Northern Crombec building its nest.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 but on this trip, it was quite dry, so a crossing was possible. This is the home of the Afar people, a proudly independent, and essentially autonomous group of people that shun most modern technology, and are content living as they have for centuries if not millennia. Despite the heat and dust of the day’s driving, the birds of the dusty open plains and extensive riparian thickets were excellent. African Hawk-Eagle, African Collared-Dove, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Northern Carmine Bee-eater, Red-bellied Parrot, , Mouse-colored Penduline-Tit, Upcher’s Warbler, , Crimson-rumped Waxbill, Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse, and Arabian were highlights. Our last birding of the day was at the feet of the Mount Fentale, in the lava fields that are home to a few special birds, most especially Sombre Chat. Although it took a long search, we eventually located all of our targets: Blackstart, , and the Sombre Chat. We made it to our lodge inside Awash National Park, where I was happy to find out that the beer was significantly colder than it had been in previous years! Awash National Park is one of the best-known and most exciting birding destinations in Ethiopia. It contains extensive savanna, open grassland, lush riparian woodland, hot springs, and vast lava fields. The landscape is dominated by Mount Fentale, which erupted most recently a

Awash National Park is probably the best site on Earth for the rare Star-spotted .

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 hundred years ago. On our first morning in the park, bustards were much in evidence, with White- bellied, Buff-crested, Kori, and Hartlaub’s seen. Flying flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse were in view every morning, and the teemed with Harlequin Quail, Singing Bushlark, Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark, Ashy and Desert , Somali Fiscal, and Southern Grey Shrike. After an excellent morning, we found ourselves missing only one major target: the restricted-range Red- winged Lark, but at the last minute, I spotted one that was teed-up, and breathed a sigh of relief. In the afternoon, we made a visit to a lush Buff-crested Bustard. Bustards are a specialty of the Awash region, patch of riparian which boasts more bustard species than any other spot on the globe. woodland. The dry scrub along the way held Somali Bunting, Black-headed Lapwing, and Rosy- patched Bushshrike. In the beautiful woodland itself, were Bruce’s Green-Pigeon, Greater Honeyguide, and Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike. We wrapped up the day with a night drive in the park, one of the best places in Ethiopia for spotlighting. Although the drive was relatively quiet, it was still excellent, with sightings of Star-spotted and Slender-tailed , Common Genet, Bat-eared Fox, and African Wild Cat. The next day we made a pre-breakfast walk that turned up Eastern Plantain-eater, Grosbeak Weaver, a nesting Tawny Eagle, and a couple of beautiful Woodland Kingfishers. Heading down the Rift Valley towards brought us to Bilen Lodge, a remote and beautiful spot in the heart of Afar country. Before lunch, we spent a couple hours birding the nearby plains, a fascinating area where you never know exactly what to expect. On this trip, we located a couple

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 of “Somali” Ostrich, Arabian Bustards, a Short-toed Snake-Eagle, and huge numbers of Lesser Kestrel and Montagu’s Harrier. After a solid lunch, we waited out the heat of the day in our comfortable chalets, which are built along the lines of an Afar dwelling. Birding around some hot springs in the late afternoon proved productive. There was a decent assortment of shorebirds, Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse, a Eurasian Turtle-Dove, and a monumental Leopard Tortoise. Our main target bird, Black Scrub-Robin, eluded us until just before the last light had bled out of the sky, when I heard a distant bird and we ran towards it, to catch it before the light failed, then viewed it with the help of one of the participant’s flashlight, a most satisfying conclusion to a long search! We made a night drive on the way back to the lodge, and I was awed to pick up a huge leopard in my spotlight beam. Upon consideration, I realized that I have seen leopard on half of my many trips to Ethiopia. Although this country isn’t known as a hotspot for big mammals, it is excellent for mammals overall (as evinced by our 43 species on this trip), and you stand a very good chance of seeing a leopard in a very wild setting, likely outside of a national park.

Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse male near Bilen Lodge.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Most of the next day was spend driving to Lake Langano Ð a Rift Valley lake surrounded by arid acacia savanna. Stops along the way turned up a bounty of new waterbirds like White-faced and Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, African Pygmy-Goose, Garganey, Pink-backed Pelican, Black Crowned-Crane, African Jacana, Temminck’s Stint, Gray-hooded and Black-headed Gulls, and Sedge Warbler. Ethiopia’s Rift Lakes are excellent birding locations that are absolutely packed with birds. Early the next morning, we began exploring the dry scrub and riparian woodland around Lake Langano. A Clapperton’s Francolin was vocalizing, and was eventually spotted perched up in a tree! A trio of Verreaux’s Eagle-Owls were scoped on a day- Ethiopia’s Rift Valley lakes are havens for a bounty of waterbirds like roost. A gorgeous pair of this Three-banded Plover. Photo by Alan McBride. Rufous-necked Wrynecks and a rambunctious flock of Black-billed Woodhoopes were called in. Red-faced fed in the Acacia trees right over our heads. We felt we had earned our breakfast after locating virtually every desired species at Langano. We dined on the shore of the lake, sharing our leftover toast with a horde of Rueppell’s Weavers. A couple of hours were spent birding Abiata-Shala National Park, which holds two huge soda lakes. This place is spectacular, with big numbers of flamingoes and hordes of shorebirds. We enoyed both the spectacle of the place, plus a couple of choice sightings including a Greater Sandplover and some Collared Pratincoles. A short afternoon drive brought us to Wondo Genet. Wondo is known as the most accessible place to find many highland birds. Although this continues to be the case, the forests in the area are severely threatened. Every year that we return to this site, there is less forest

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 remaining. This is one place in Ethiopia where the human-natural balance is uneasy, and seemingly untenable. The emergence of a handful of local bird guides is an encouraging sign; perhaps the destruction can be stopped before the natural appeal of the area disappears completely. Despite the destruction, birding remains good. We started with a long walk that left much of the group well tired out, though it was excellent for birding. Its fruits included White- headed Vulture, Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Sharpe’s Starling, Black Goshawk, Yellow-fronted Parrot, Narina Trogon, Western Olive Sunbird, and Half-collared Kingfisher. Before heading into the Bale Mountains, in the southern escarpment, we did a final morning walk at Wondo. The area where we birded is particularly tragic. I remember just 6 years ago when you would enter a thick forest about halfway into this walk. Today, this forest is completely gone, and we essentially bird the scrub that clings to the small creeks that drain the valley. Many montane birds remain, but this place is just a shadow of what it used to be. Good sightings were Blue-headed Coucal, African Hill Babbler, Abyssinian Ground-Thrush, and a catch-up Half- collared Kingfisher for the members of the group who missed it the night before. The drive to the Bale Mountains used to be an unpleasant slog, but has been made remarkably easy due to a new road that was just completed last year, albeit with a fair bit of environmental destruction. Although this is not

Mountain Nyala is an Ethiopian endemic that can be seen in the Bales. the birdiest of

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Ethiopian drives, we did enjoy great views of African . Approaching the high-elevation grasslands of the national park, we encountered our first Rouget’s Rails along the road. We arrived at Dinsho, on the skirts of Bale National Park, in the afternoon. Employing the services of a local guide, we quickly set out to view day-roosting African Wood-Owl and African Long-eared Owl. Both species were seen spectacularly well. The mammals of Dinsho are also spectacular. Multiple Mountain Nyalas were seen at close range Ð including several massive, elk-sized bucks. The population of this beautiful is down to as few as 2000 animals, restricted to the southeastern Ethiopian highlands. Other mammals included Grey Duiker, Menelik’s Bushbuck, and Bohor Reedbuck. Bad weather is always a potential problem in the Bale Mountains, but our “plateau day” dawned clear and calm. A steep drive brought us onto the open, Afro-Alpine grasslands of the Sannetti plateau. This is Ethiopia’s most beautiful and stereotype-denying spot, a vast Rouget’s Rail, one of the world’s most extroverted rails! montane world carpeted in giant lobelias and other beautiful high-elevation plants. It didn’t take long to spot an Abysinnian Wolf Ð another mammal that is almost restricted to the Bale Mountains. It is a lanky canine that may have more in common with the wolves of Europe than the jackals or foxes of Africa. On the bird front, there isn’t a lot on the plateau, but what’s there is interesting. We found

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Spot-breasted Lapwing, Ruddy Shelduck, Red-billed Chough, and a pair of Golden Eagles, which have an extremely isolated population here. Chestnut-naped Francolins cooperated, but Moorland Francolins remained elusive despite extensive searching. By mid-day, we had crossed the plateau, and dropped down into the magical Harenna Forest. Highlights here included Crowned Hawk-Eagle, Lesser Honeyguide, Red-chested Cuckoo, some flyby Slender-billed , and lots of Yellow-crowned Canaries and Black-and-white Mannikins.

Abyssinian Wolf is one of the top creatures of Ethiopia, a gorgeous beast.

An early departure saw us well on our way to the Islam’s sacred valley of Sof Omar when the sun rose. The most exciting point of the drive down was a Serval in the spotlight. Our primary target for the day was Salvadori’s Serin Ð another of the rarest and most restricted-range endemics of Ethiopia. It is known from two sites, one of which is the valley of Sof Omar. Although the bird can be difficult, I quickly heard then spotted a single bird that was seen well by all. Other interesting species that we found included African Hawk-Eagle, Mottled Swift, Somali Tit, Gray- headed Batis, Northern Brownful, Brown-tailed Chat, Bristle-crowned Starling, Collared Sunbird, and Yellow-spotted Hyrax. The breakfast coffee went down easy with the main target bird already

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 in hand. The remaining cool of the morning was spent birding in the valley bottom. As the day heated up, we visited the spot where the Web River disappears into the mystical caves of Sof Omar. As always the scene was cheerily bucolic, with dozens of people washing clothes, washing themselves, and herding livestock to the river for a drink of precious water. The long drive back to Goba was spiced with a fair bit of bird life, including our first Somali Crows of the trip. After an afternoon siesta, we made a nocturnal expedition to my favorite spot for Abyssinian Nightjar, which performed well. We also stumbled into an African Long-eared Owl perched at eye-level at close range, a spectacular end to another great day. We made few stops on our re-crossing of the Sannetti Plateau, but did see more Abyssinian Wolves and finally one of the participants spotted a beautifully cryptic Moorland Francolin. A little more birding in Harenna Forest didn’t turn up much new, but a couple people were lucky enough to see a Giant Forest Hog dash across the road, a testament to the wildness of this place, where forest- dwelling African Wild Dogs are still rumored to persist. With a long drive ahead, we proceeded quickly down into the lowlands, progressing towards Negele Ð our base for the next several

days. In the late Moving towards Negele, we entered the range of Red-and-yellow Barbet. Photo by Alan McBride.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 afternoon, we stopped near the Genale River at a traditional spot for Prince Ruspoli’s Turaco. We didn’t have to walk for or look very hard before we came eye-to-eye with a bounding, puffy-crested pair of what may be Ethiopia’s top endemic bird. Much of its mystique comes from its story… first collected by an Italian prince who was crushed by an elephant, and took the secret of the birds whereabouts to his grave, leaving its range unknown for many decades. At the end of the long drive, we arrive in Negele, and checked into our hotel, and immaculate brand-new place that is an incredibly welcome replacement for the horrific Green Motel that was the best option in previous years. Another sought-after Ethiopian endemic was the next morning’s target. Sidamo Lark may have the smallest range of any described Ethiopian bird species. When searching for the bird in the middle of the plains it inhabits, you can see habitat that is inappropriate for the bird encroaching in three of the four compass directions. It is possible that other pockets of the birds exist, but the open grassy areas it prefers are highly specific to the Negele area. This bird has a remarkable ability to hide in grass that is only an inch tall, but after a fair bit of marching about the plain, one of the participants finally spotted a Sidamo, to the joy of the group and the relief of the guide! Other good sightings on Liben included Temminck’s Courser, the local Somali Short-toed Lark, White-crowned Starling, Shelley’s Rufous Sparrow, and Speke’s Weaver.

Sidamo Lark is an Ethiopian endemic, and one of the rarest birds on Earth. Photo by Alan McBride.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 After breakfast, we headed towards the thornveld that lies east of the Liben Plain. These savannas lie on gently rolling hills, part of the great swath of land that angles down from the highlands of Abyssinia to the baked stone deserts along the Red Sea in . Although they look dry and almost devoid of life from a distance, they hold an excellent diversity of bird species, even at the height of the dry season. Just as we left the Liben Plain, I spotted an endemic White-tailed Red-fronted Warbler is found in the dry thornveld of southern Ethiopia. Photo by Alan McBride. Swallow, which has an isolated population here, away from the main population around Yabello. Further into the thornscrub, many northeastern Africa arid-zone birds were encountered, including Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Black-throated Barbet, Pygmy Batis, Pringle’s Puffback, Red-naped Bushshrike, Somali Crombec, Red-fronted Warbler, Banded Warbler, Three-streaked Tchagra, Somali Crombec, Northern Grosbeak-Canary, and Purple Grenadier. Several Guenther’s Dik-Dik were seen, replete with their mini elephant-like noses. Birding the arid thornscrub of the Somali-Masai biome is some of my favorite birding on the African continent. Despite the seeming barrenness of this habitat, it is loaded with birds, often including large and exciting mixed flocks. Eared Grebe and Black-headed Heron came as surprises on a small pond along the way back to Negele. Between Negele and Yabello lies a rugged swatch of savanna punctuated by the slightly lusher vegetation of the Dawa River valley. Although the driving is rough, the long trip is made

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 interesting by an exciting selection of southern Ethiopia specialty birds. Our first exciting find was a couple of Bushbabies jumping around in the spotlight beam before dawn. Further on, we came upon a mixed starling flock that contained several Magpie Starlings. We reached the Dawa River while the morning cool remained, and quickly located our desired species: White- winged Dove, Black-bellied Sunbird, and Salvadori’s Weaver, though the sunbird was only seen as a fly-over. African Pied hopped on the rocky banks of the river, while flocks of Black- faced Sandgrouse passed overhead. Heading east again, we bumped in to a flock of the gorgeous Vulturine Guineafowl. A lunch stop in savanna was interesting despite the heat; graced by Wahlberg’s and Martial Eagles, Wahlberg’s Honeyguide, and a rare sighting of the tiny Yellow- vented Eremomela. Further on, another stop was excellent despite the blazing heat. We turned up Tiny Cisticola, D’Arnaud’s Barbet, and Spotted Morning-Thrush. Approaching Yabello you enter the range of one of Ethiopia’s most sought-after species: Stresemann’s Bush-Crow. It didn’t take long before we spotted a mixed flock of starlings and bush-crows. This large, handsome, nutcracker-like bird has beautiful bright blue bare skin around the eye when seen well. The last sighting of the day, and Stresemann’s Bush-Crow is the top endemic specialty of the Yabello area. Check out the bare blue skin around the eye!

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 probably the best sighting as well, occurred in the form of a melanistic Serval. This pure-black and almost eerie-looking cat was rather shy, but with some careful maneuvering and scoping, we eventually managed spectacular views of it. For me, this was the highlight of the whole tour, something I have never seen before. Departing Yabello early, we arrived in the savanna south of town at dawn. At this point in the trip, and due to some excellent luck, we had very few new birds to look for. A pre-breakfast walk turned up Bare-eyed Thrush, Gray-headed Bushshrike, and rare Purple-banded Sunbird, more common Mariqua , but not the hoped-for Scaly Chatterer, which would elude us on this trip. Normal southern Ethiopian scrub birds like Yellow-necked Francolin, Bateleur, Slate-coloured Boubou, Shelley’s Starling, Violet-backed Sunbird, Hunter’s Sunbird, Somali Bunting, and Gray- Short-tailed Lark would better be called “Huge-billed Lark”! Photo headed Social-Weaver, were by Alan McBride. much in evidence. A couple of lumbering Abyssinian Ground-Hornbills were enjoyed, despite this being the 6th day of the trip in which we had found this wonderful bird! A stop at my traditional lark site produced both Foxy and a whole flock of the notoriously unpredictable Short-tailed Lark. Unfortunately, the band of Somali Coursers that I normally manage to locate seem to have evaporated. On our way back to the hotel, I was shocked to see a couple of Grevy’s Zebras running across the highway in front of us, another testament to the wildness of southern Ethiopia. Most of the afternoon was spent resting up for a long night drive in the evening. Just before the sun set, we set off, then waited for full dark in the middle of the vast thorny savannah. Just as full dark fell, we finally caught up with one of our most difficult remaining target birds when I called

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 in and spotlighted a Three-banded Courser. Soon after, a beautiful Donaldson-Smith’s Nightjar began calling, then allowed very close approach and excellent photos. The rest of the night drive was rather quiet, though there were a couple of Common Genets. The next day was primarily a travel day between the dry savanna of Yabello and the moist riparian woodland and lakeshore of Lake Awassa. Lake Awassa is one of the smallest of the lakes that dot the Rift Valley of Ethiopia. Nonetheless, it may be the most interesting ornithologically. Humans and birds have reached a harmony here that is remarkable even in a country where the two tribes generally coexist peacefully. African Pygmy-Goose can be seen at a few yards, and Malachite Kingfishers sit on rocks literally at your feet. It is often difficult to stop admiring the birds in your immediate vicinity to search the farther reaches of the lake for additional birds. Our evening birding at Awassa was excellent as expected. White-backed Duck, Purple Swamphen, Klaas’s Cuckoo, Eurasian Reed-Warbler, Marsh Warbler, Red-faced Cisticola, and Fawn-breasted and Common Waxbills were all new for our bird list, which by this point in the trip had climbed above 500 species. Even the Black Crakes were tame, bright yellow bills lit up by the warm rays of the setting sun. Early the next morning, we birded the lush woodland and marsh right around our comfortable hotel. I was very happy to find a Banded Snake-Eagle, a rare bird throughout its range, that I only occasionally

African Spotted-Creeper at Awassa. This is an odd bird that is sometimes placed in its own family.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 manage to locate at Awassa. Also new for the trip was the beautiful White-browed Robin-Chat. After breakfast, we headed to the fish market of Awassa. The number and tameness of the birds here are staggering. Marabou Storks shoulder their way through the vendors, Great White Pelicans beg for fish scraps, and a diverse horse of larids squabble for the scraps neglected by the larger piscivores. The show is not limited to waterbirds; Silvery-cheeked Hornbills and Thick- billed Ravens are common in the figs that line the shore. By late morning, it was time to head back to Addis to conclude our trips. We had one last birding stop at Lake Cheleleka, which held a couple of new duck species and a beautiful European Bee-eater. We returned to the Ghion to wash up and organize before heading out for a dinner at a restaurant that features delicious Ethiopian food and traditional dancing. This spectacle never fails to amaze, and to serve as the perfect cap of a sojourn in this unique country. Our trip total had exceeded 500 species, plus an amazing 43 mammals. We had surveyed a variety of interesting local cultures, taken in a variety of spectacular landscapes, and seen a staggering number of birds and mammals. Thanks to the excellent Tropical Birding group whose company I enjoyed, and who spotted many a bird or other creature that I might have otherwise missed.

Grant’s Gazelle, just one of the 43 mammal species we saw on this trip.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 ITINERARY

February 12 Arrival in Addis Ababa February 13 Addis to Liben Plain to Debre Libanos February 14 Jemmu Valley to Debre Birhan February 15 Debre Birhan to Ankober to Melka Ghebdu February 16 Ankober to Awash NP February 17 Awash NP February 18 Awash NP to Bilen February 19 Bilen to Rift Valley lakes to Lake Langano February 20 Lake Langano to Wondo Genet February 21 Wondo Genet to Goba February 22 Bale Mountains NP February 23 Sof Omar February 24 Goba to Negele February 25 Negele area February 26 Negele to Yabello February 27 Yabello area February 28 Yabello to Awassa March 1 Awassa to Addis Ababa

A pack of White Helmetshrikes in southern Ethiopia. Photo by Alan McBride.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 PHOTO GALLERY Follows tour’s chronology

Ortolon Bunting was one of the first birds we found on this tour, on the Sululta Plain.

A Lappet-faced Vulture being mobbed by Fan-tailed Ravens at the Portuguese Bridge.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

White-winged Cliff-Chat (left) is an endemic. Hemprich’s Hornbill (right) is a scarce cliff specialist.

A typically timeless scene from the Ethiopian highlands. Photo by Alan McBride.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Egyptian Vulture is nowhere more common than in Ethiopia.

Bush Petronia is one of the “specialty” birds of the Jemmu Valley, more typical of western Ethiopia.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

The sparkle in the eye of a Streaky Seedeater.

A Lammergeier shot right over our heads during a drive across the northern mountains.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

At Melka Ghebdu, we enter the range of birds like Rueppell’s Weaver.

Abyssinian Roller, a rare beauty.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Sombre Chat is a lava field specialist. Photo by Alan McBride.

Ashy Cisticola (left) and Chestnut-backed Sparrowlawk (right). Right photo by Alan McBride.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Pygmy Falcon on the Afar Plain. Photo by Alan McBride.

Kori Bustard in Awash, the world capital of bustards.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Arabian Bustard slinking through the Afar grasses.

Beisa Oryx is one of the mammal species that still grace Awash.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Palearctic migrants galore: Barn and Bank Swallows (left) and Montagu’s Harrier (right). Right photo by Alan McBride.

In the Rift Valley, we enjoyed a bounty of waterbirds like these Marsh Sandpipers. Photo by Alan McBride.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Great White Pelican at Lake Ziway.

Resident Hottentot Teal and a migrant Garganey mix on Lake Ziway.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

The dry scrub around Lake Langano holds Gray-backed Fical (left) and Rufous-throated Wryneck. Right photo by Alan McBride.

Caspian Plovers were the highlight of our visit to Abiata-Shalla NP. Photo by Alan McBride.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

An African Long-eared Owl glowering at us in the Bale Mountains.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Cape Eagle-Owl was a surprise in Bale Mountains NP.

Chestnut-naped Francolin is abundant in the Bales.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

A hefty Augur Buzzard at 13,000 feet.

Starck’s Hare is another endemic mammal, and a handsome beast. Photo by Alan McBride.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Perhaps the top creature of Ethiopia, the Abyssinian Wolf.

Salvadori’s Serin at Sof Omar. Photo by Alan McBride.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Grevy’s Zebra on the highway near Yabello was a pleasant surprise.

Prince Ruspoli’s Turaco takes to the wing. Photo by Alan McBride.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Vulturine Guineafowl is rather gangly, but remarkably beautiful.

A typical sight in the south: a huge herd of camels.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Foxy Lark perfectly matches its environment. Photo by Alan McBride.

Stresemann’s Bush-Crow is Yabello’s top bird.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Hooded Vulture is abundant around Ethiopian towns. Photo by Alan McBride.

African Fish-Eagle is amazingly common at Lake Awassa.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

White-rumped Babbler (left) and Red-faced Cisticola (right) at Lake Awassa. Photos by Alan McBride.

Guerza Colobus, a handsome monkey that is common in many parts of Ethiopia.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

Another look at Prince Ruspoli’s Turaco.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 BIRD LIST

Taxonomy and nomenclature follow The Clements Checklist of the Birds of the World 6.8 (including updates through October, 2013).

STRUTHIONIFORMES: Struthionidae Ostrich Struthio camelus ANSERIFORMES: Anatidae White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata Fulvous Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna bicolor White-backed Duck Thalassornis leuconotus Blue-winged Goose Cyanochen cyanoptera Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis African Pygmy-Goose Nettapus auritus Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata Northern Pintail Anas acuta Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota Garganey Anas querquedula Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma GALLIFORMES: Numididae Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris Vulturine Guineafowl Acryllium vulturinum GALLIFORMES: Phasianidae Crested Francolin Francolinus sephaena Moorland Francolin Francolinus psilolaemus Scaly Francolin Francolinus squamatus Erckel's Francolin Francolinus erckelii Clapperton's Francolin Francolinus clappertoni Harwood's Francolin Francolinus harwoodi Yellow-necked Francolin Francolinus leucoscepus Chestnut-naped Francolin Francolinus castaneicollis Common Quail Coturnix coturnix Harlequin Quail Coturnix delegorguei PODICIPEDIFORMES: Podicipedidae Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Eared Grebe Podiceps nigricollis PHOENICOPTERIFORMES: Phoenicopteridae Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor CICONIIFORMES: Ciconiidae Black Stork Ciconia nigra Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus White Stork Ciconia ciconia Leptoptilos crumenifer Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis SULIFORMES: Phalacrocoracidae Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus SULIFORMES: Anhingidae African Darter Anhinga rufa PELECANIFORMES: Pelecanidae Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens PELECANIFORMES: Scopidae Hamerkop Scopus umbretta PELECANIFORMES: Ardeidae Gray Heron Ardea cinerea Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala Goliath Heron Ardea goliath Great Egret Ardea alba Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia Little Egret Egretta garzetta Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Striated Heron Butorides striata PELECANIFORMES: Threskiornithidae Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash Wattled Ibis Bostrychia carunculata African Spoonbill Platalea alba ACCIPITRIFORMES: Sagittariidae Secretary-bird Sagittarius serpentarius ACCIPITRIFORMES: Accipitridae Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus Rueppell's Griffon (Vulture) Gyps rueppellii Eurasian Griffon Gyps fulvus Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus Short-toed (Snake-) Eagle Circaetus gallicus Black-breasted Snake-Eagle Circaetus pectoralis (Western) Banded Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinerascens Crowned Hawk-Eagle Stephanoaetus coronatus Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis Lesser Spotted Eagle Clanga pomarina Wahlberg's Eagle Hieraaetus wahlbergi Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus Ayres's Hawk-Eagle Hieraaetus ayresii Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos Verreaux's Eagle Aquila verreauxii African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster Dark Chanting-Goshawk Melierax metabates Eastern Chanting-Goshawk Melierax poliopterus Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar Eurasian Marsh-Harrier Circus aeruginosus Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro Shikra Accipiter badius Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Black Goshawk Accipiter melanoleucus Black Kite Milvus migrans African Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer "Steppe" Common Buzzard Buteo buteo vulpinus Mountain Buzzard Buteo oreophilus Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus Augur Buzzard Buteo augur OTIDIFORMES: Otididae Ardeotis arabs Ardeotis kori

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 (Northern) White-bellied Bustard senegalensis Buff-crested Bustard Eupodotis gindiana Hartlaub's Bustard Lissotis hartlaubii GRUIFORMES: Rallidae Rouget's Rail Rougetius rougetii Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio Eurasian Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata GRUIFORMES: Gruidae Black Crowned-Crane Balearica pavonina Common Crane Grus grus CHARADRIIFORMES: Burhinidae Senegal Thick-knee Burhinus senegalensis CHARADRIIFORMES: Recurvirostridae Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta CHARADRIIFORMES: Charadriidae Spur-winged Plover Vanellus spinosus Black-headed Lapwing Vanellus tectus Black-winged Lapwing Vanellus melanopterus Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus Spot-breasted Lapwing Vanellus melanocephalus Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris CHARADRIIFORMES: Jacanidae African Jacana Actophilornis africanus CHARADRIIFORMES: Scolopacidae Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus NL Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Ruff Calidris pugnax Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii Little Stint Calidris minuta

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago African Snipe Gallinago nigripennis CHARADRIIFORMES: Glareolidae Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii Three-banded Courser Rhinoptilus cinctus Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola CHARADRIIFORMES: Laridae Gray-hooded Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus fuscus "Heuglin's" Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus heuglini Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida PTEROCLIFORMES: Pteroclidae Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus Black-faced Sandgrouse Pterocles decoratus Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse Pterocles lichtensteinii COLUMBIFORMES: Columbidae Rock Pigeon Columba livia Speckled Pigeon Columba White-collared Pigeon Columba albitorques Rameron (Olive) Pigeon Columba arquatrix G Lemon Dove Columba larvata European Turtle-Dove Streptopelia turtur Dusky Turtle-Dove Streptopelia lugens African Collared-Dove Streptopelia roseogrisea White-winged Collared-Dove Streptopelia reichenowi Mourning Collared-Dove Streptopelia decipiens Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Ring-necked (Cape Turtle) Dove Streptopelia capicola Vinaceous Dove Streptopelia vinacea Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos Blue-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur afer Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria Namaqua Dove Oena capensis Bruce's Green-Pigeon Treron waalia CUCULIFORMES: Musophagidae White-cheeked Turaco Tauraco leucotis Prince Ruspoli's Turaco Tauraco ruspolii White-bellied Go-away-bird Corythaixoides leucogaster

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Eastern Plantain-eater Crinifer zonurus CUCULIFORMES: Cuculidae Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus H Blue-headed Coucal Centropus monachus White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus STRIGIFORMES: Strigidae African Scops-Owl Otus senegalensis Cape Eagle-Owl Bubo capensis Grayish Eagle-Owl Bubo cinerascens Verreaux's Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum African Wood-Owl Strix woodfordii African Long-eared Owl Asio abyssinicus : Caprimulgidae Standard-winged Nightjar longipennis NL Eurasian Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus Donaldson-Smith's Nightjar Caprimulgus donaldsoni Abyssinian (Montane) Nightjar Caprimulgus poliocephalus Star-spotted Nightjar Caprimulgus stellatus Slender-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus clarus : Apodidae Alpine Swift melba Mottled Swift Apus aequatorialis Common Swift Apus apus Nyanza Swift Apus niansae Little Swift Apus affinis White-rumped Swift Apus caffer African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus COLIIFORMES: Coliidae Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus TROGONIFORMES: Trogonidae Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina : Alcedinidae Half-collared Kingfisher Alcedo semitorquata Malachite Kingfisher Corythornis cristatus African Pygmy-Kingfisher Ispidina picta Gray-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis CORACIIFORMES: Meropidae Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus Blue-breasted Bee-eater Merops variegatus European Bee-eater Merops apiaster Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicus CORACIIFORMES: Abyssinian Roller abyssinicus Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus Rufous-crowned (Purple) Roller Coracias naevius CORACIIFORMES: Upupidae Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops CORACIIFORMES: Phoeniculidae Black-billed Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus somaliensis Black Scimitar-bill Rhinopomastus aterrimus Abyssinian Scimitar-bill Rhinopomastus minor CORACIIFORMES: Bucerotidae Northern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus flavirostris Von der Decken's Hornbill Tockus deckeni Hemprich's Hornbill Tockus hemprichii African Gray Hornbill Tockus nasutus Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Ceratogymna brevis CORACIIFORMES: Bucorvidae Abyssinian Ground-Hornbill Bucorvus abyssinicus : Lybiidae Red-and-yellow Barbet Trachyphonus erythrocephalus Yellow-breasted Barbet Trachyphonus margaritatus D'Arnaud's Barbet Trachyphonus darnaudii Red-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus pusillus Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus Red-fronted Barbet Tricholaema diademata Black-throated Barbet Tricholaema melanocephala Banded Barbet Lybius undatus Black-billed Barbet Lybius guifsobalito Double-toothed Barbet Lybius bidentatus PICIFORMES: Indicatoridae Wahlberg's Honeyguide Prodotiscus regulus Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor Scaly-throated Honeyguide Indicator variegatus Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator PICIFORMES: Picidae

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla Rufous-necked (Red-throated) Wryneck Jynx ruficollis Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica Abyssinian Woodpecker abyssinicus Dendropicos fuscescens Bearded Woodpecker Dendropicos namaquus Gray-headed Woodpecker Dendropicos spodocephalus FALCONIFORMES: Falconidae Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Fox Kestrel Falco alopex Eleonora's Falcon Falco eleonorae Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus PSITTACIFORMES: Psittacidae Black-winged Lovebird Agapornis taranta Red-bellied (African Orange-bellied) Parrot Poicephalus rufiventris Yellow-fronted Parrot Poicephalus flavifrons PASSERIFORMES: Platysteiridae Brown-throated Wattle-eye Platysteira cyanea H Gray-headed Batis Batis orientalis Black-headed Batis Batis minor Pygmy Batis Batis perkeo PASSERIFORMES: Vangidae White (-crested) Helmetshrike Prionops plumatus PASSERIFORMES: Malaconotidae Brubru Nilaus afer Northern Puffback gambensis Pringle's Puffback Dryoscopus pringlii Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus Three-streaked Tchagra Tchagra jamesi Red-naped Bushshrike Laniarius ruficeps Tropical (Ethiopian) Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus Slate-colored Boubou Laniarius funebris Rosy-patched Bushshrike Rhodophoneus cruentus Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike Telophorus sulfureopectus Gray-headed Bushshrike Malaconotus blanchoti PASSERIFORMES: Campephagidae Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike Campephaga phoenicea PASSERIFORMES: Laniidae Isabelline (Rufous-tailed) Shrike isabellinus

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Southern Gray Shrike Lanius meridionalis Gray-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitorius Lanius dorsalis Somali Fiscal Lanius somalicus Northern Fiscal Lanius humeralis Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator White-rumped (-crowned) Shrike rueppelli PASSERIFORMES: Oriolidae Dark-headed (Ethiopian) Oriole Oriolus monacha African Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus PASSERIFORMES: Dicruridae Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis PASSERIFORMES: Monarchidae African Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis PASSERIFORMES: Corvidae Stresemann's Bush-Crow Zavattariornis stresemanni Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax Cape Crow Corvus capensis Pied Crow Corvus albus Somali Crow Corvus edithae Fan-tailed Raven Corvus rhipidurus Thick-billed Raven Corvus crassirostris PASSERIFORMES: Alaudidae Singing Bushlark Mirafra cantillans Red-winged Lark Mirafra hypermetra Gillett's Lark Mirafra gilletti Sidamo Lark Heteromirafra sidamoensis Foxy Lark Calendulauda alopex Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucotis Chestnut-headed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix signatus Erlanger's Lark Calandrella erlangeri Somali Short-toed Lark Calandrella somalica Short-tailed Lark Pseudalaemon fremantlii Thekla Lark Galerida theklae PASSERIFORMES: Hirundinidae Plain Martin Riparia paludicola Bank Swallow Riparia riparia Eurasian Crag-Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Ethiopian Swallow Hirundo aethiopica

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii White-tailed Swallow Hirundo megaensis Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica Lesser Striped-Swallow Cecropis abyssinica Common House-Martin Delichon urbicum Black Sawwing Psalidoprocne pristoptera PASSERIFORMES: Paridae White-backed Black-Tit Melaniparus leuconotus Somali Tit Melaniparus thruppi PASSERIFORMES: Remizidae Mouse-colored Penduline-Tit Anthoscopus musculus PASSERIFORMES: Certhiidae African Spotted-Creeper Salpornis salvadori PASSERIFORMES: Pycnonotidae Northern Brownbul Phyllastrephus strepitans Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus PASSERIFORMES: Northern Crombec Sylvietta brachyura Red-faced Crombec Sylvietta whytii Somali Crombec Sylvietta isabellina PASSERIFORMES: Phylloscopidae Brown Woodland-Warbler Phylloscopus umbrovirens Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus NL Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita PASSERIFORMES: Acrocephalidae Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Iduna pallida Upcher's Warbler Hippolais languida Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris Eurasian Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus Lesser Swamp-Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris PASSERIFORMES: Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler cinnamomeus Little Rush-Warbler Bradypterus baboecala H PASSERIFORMES: Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida Green-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura Red-fronted Warbler Urorhipis rufifrons Gray Wren-Warbler Calamonastes simplex Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans Boran Cisticola Cisticola bodessa

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana Ashy Cisticola Cisticola cinereolus "Ethiopian" Winding Cisticola Cisticola galactotes lugubris Foxy Cisticola Cisticola troglodytes Tiny Cisticola Cisticola nana Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus Pectoral-patch Cisticola Cisticola brunnescens Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava Pale Prinia Prinia somalica Yellow-vented Eremomela Eremomela flavicrissalis Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis Green-backed Eremomela Eremomela canescens PASSERIFORMES: Sylvidae Abyssinian Catbird Parophasma galinieri African Hill Babbler Sylvia abyssinica Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Banded Warbler (Parisoma) Sylvia boehmi Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Brown Warbler (Parisoma) Sylvia lugens Greater Whitethroat Sylvia communis PASSERIFORMES: Zosteropidae Broad-ringed (Montane) White-eye Zosterops poliogastrus White-breasted (Abyssinian) White-eye Zosterops abyssinicus PASSERIFORMES: Leiothrichidae Rufous Chatterer rubiginosa White-rumped Babbler Turdoides leucopygia PASSERIFORMES: Muscicapidae Grayish (African Gray) Flycatcher Bradornis microrhynchus Abyssinian Slaty-Flycatcher Melaenornis chocolatinus Northern Black-Flycatcher Melaenornis edolioides Dusky-brown (African Dusky) Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta Black Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas podobe Red-backed (White-browed) Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys Rueppell's Robin-Chat Cossypha semirufa White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini Red-capped Robin-Chat Cossypha natalensis Spotted Morning-Thrush Cichladusa guttata Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus Little Rock-Thrush Monticola rufocinereus

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Rufous-tailed (Common) Rock-Thrush Monticola saxatilis Blue Rock-Thrush Monticola solitarius Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurus African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Rueppell's (Black) Chat Myrmecocichla melaena Mocking Cliff-Chat Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris White-winged Cliff-Chat Thamnolaea semirufa Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris Brown-tailed Chat Cercomela scotocerca Sombre (Rock-) Chat Cercomela dubia Blackstart Cercomela melanura Moorland Chat Cercomela sordida Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe "Abyssinian Black" Mourning Wheatear Oenanthe lugens lugubris Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Red-breasted Wheatear Oenanthe bottae PASSERIFORMES: Turdidae Abyssinian Ground-Thrush Geokichla piaggiae Groundscraper Thrush Psophocichla litsitsirupa simensis Abyssinian (Olive) Thrush Turdus abyssinicus African Thrush Turdus pelios African Bare-eyed Thrush Turdus tephronotus PASSERIFORMES: Sturnidae Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea Greater Blue-eared Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus Lesser Blue-eared Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chloropterus Rueppell's Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis purpuroptera Golden-breasted Starling Lamprotornis regius Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus Shelley's Starling Lamprotornis shelleyi Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster White-crowned Starling Spreo albicapillus Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio Slender-billed Starling Onychognathus tenuirostris Bristle-crowned Starling Onychognathus salvadorii White-billed Starling Onychognathus albirostris Sharpe's Starling Pholia sharpii Magpie Starling Speculipastor bicolor PASSERIFORMES: Buphagidae Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 PASSERIFORMES: Nectariniidae Kenya Violet-backed Sunbird orientalis Collared Sunbird collaris Nile Valley Sunbird Hedydipna metallica Western Olive Sunbird Cyanomitra obscura Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis Hunter's Sunbird Chalcomitra hunteri Tacazze Sunbird Nectarinia tacazze Beautiful Sunbird pulchellus Mariqua Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis Black-bellied Sunbird Cinnyris nectarinioides Purple-banded Sunbird Cinnyris bifasciatus Shining Sunbird Cinnyris habessinicus Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venustus PASSERIFORMES: Western Yellow Motacilla flava Gray Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Mountain Wagtail Motacilla clara White Wagtail Motacilla alba African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus Abyssinian Longclaw Macronyx flavicollis PASSERIFORMES: Emberizidae Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana Striolated (House) Bunting Emberiza striolata Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi Somali Bunting Emberiza poliopleura PASSERIFORMES: Fringillidae Ankober Serin Carduelis ankoberensis Yellow-crowned Canary flavivertex Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus Abyssinian Siskin Serinus nigriceps African Citril Serinus citrinelloides Reichenow's Seedeater Serinus reichenowi Yellow-rumped Serin Serinus xanthopygius White-bellied Canary Serinus dorsostriatus Yellow-throated Serin Serinus flavigula

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Salvadori's Serin Serinus xantholaemus Northern Grosbeak-Canary Serinus donaldsoni Streaky Seedeater Serinus striolatus Brown-rumped Seedeater Serinus tristriatus PASSERIFORMES: Passeridae Shelley's Rufous Sparrow Passer shelleyi Swainson's Sparrow Passer swainsonii Passer eminibey Yellow-spotted Petronia Petronia pyrgita Bush Petronia Petronia dentata PASSERIFORMES: Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver White-headed Buffalo-Weaver Dinemellia dinemelli Speckle-fronted Weaver frontalis White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser superciliosus Gray-headed Social-Weaver arnaudi Black-capped Social-Weaver Pseudonigrita cabanisi Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps baglafecht Ploceus luteolus Ploceus ocularis Lesser Masked-Weaver Ploceus intermedius Vitelline Masked-Weaver Ploceus vitellinus Rueppell's Weaver Ploceus galbula Speke's Weaver Ploceus spekei Ploceus cucullatus Salvadori's () Weaver Ploceus dichrocephalus Ploceus rubiginosus Red-billed Quelea quelea Orange (Northern Red) Bishop franciscanus Black-winged Bishop Euplectes hordeaceus Yellow-crowned Bishop Euplectes afer Euplectes capensis Red-collared Widowbird Euplectes ardens Grosbeak Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons PASSERIFORMES: Yellow-bellied Waxbill Coccopygia quartinia "Abyssinian" Fawn-breasted Waxbill Estrilda paludicola ochrogaster Crimson-rumped Waxbill Estrilda rhodopyga Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Red-cheeked Cordonbleu Uraeginthus bengalus

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Purple Grenadier Granatina ianthinogaster Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala African Firefinch Lagonosticta rubricata Cut-throat Amadina fasciata African Quailfinch Ortygospiza fuscocrissa Bronze Mannikin Spermestes cucullatus Black-and-white Mannikin Spermestes bicolor African Silverbill Euodice cantans PASSERIFORMES: Viduidae Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura Eastern Paradise-Whydah Vidua paradisaea Straw-tailed Whydah Vidua fischeri Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata

Bold = Ethiopia or Ethiopia/Eritrea endemic species. H = heard-only NL = not seen by Tropical Birding guide

White-headed Vulture (left) and Lappet-faced Vulture (right), a good size comparison.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 MAMMAL LIST and nomenclature follow The Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals (2003) by Jonathan Kingdon.

Guereza White Colobus Colobus guereza (abyssinicus) Sacred Baboon (Hamadryas) Papio hamadryas Olive Baboon Papio anubis Gelada (Baboon) Theropithecus gelada Grivet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus pygerythrus Lesser Bushbaby (Senegal Galago) Galago senegalensis Scrub Hare Lepus saxatilis fagani Starck's Hare Lepus starcki Cape Hare Lepus capensis Unstriped Ground Squirrel Xerus rutilus Striped Ground Squirrel Euxerus erythrops Gambian Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus gambianus Giant Root Rat Tachyoryctes macrocephalus Blick's Grass Rat Arvicanthis blicki Golden Jackal Canis aureus Abyssinian Wolf Canis simmensis Bat-eared Fox Otocyon megalotis Egyptian Mongoose Herpestes ichneumon Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula White-tailed Mongoose Ichneumia albicauda Spotted Hyaena Crocuta crocuta Common Genet Genetta genetta Wild Cat Felis sylvestris Leopard Panthera pardus Serval Leptailurus serval Ethiopian Rock Hyrax Procavia habessenica Yellow-spotted Hyrax Heterohyrax brucei Grevy´s Zebra Equus grevyi Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus Desert Warthog Phachochoerus aethiopicus NL Giant Forest Hog Hylochoerus meinertzhageni Menelik´s Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus meneliki Mountain Nyala Tragelaphus buxtoni Lesser Kudu Tragelaphus imberbis Grey Duiker Sylvicappra grimmia Klipspringer Oreotragus oreotragus Salt´s Dik-dik Madoqua saltiana

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014 Guenther´s Dik-dik Madoqua guentheri Mountain Reedbuck Redunca fulvorufula Soemmering´s Gazelle Gazella soemmerringi Grant's (Bright's) Gazelle Nanger granti brighti Gerenuk Litocranius walleri

REPTILE LIST

Leopard Tortoise Geochelone pardalis Tropical House Gecko Hemidactylus mabouia Five-lined Skink Mabuya quinquetaeniata Blue-headed Tree Agama Acanthocercus atricollis Rueppell's Agama Agama rueppelli Nile (Water) Monitor Varanus niloticus Nile Crocodile Crocodylus niloticus Northeast African Carpet Viper Echis pyramidum

Northeast African Carpet Viper was the reptile highlight. Photo by Alan McBride.

Ethiopia: Birding the ‘Roof’ of Africa Feb. 12-Mar. 1, 2014

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