PETALUMAPOST.COMPETALUMAPOST.COM THETHE PETALUMAPETALUMA POST POST SEPTEMBEROCTOBER 2010• 2012 • 25 13 Philip J. Russell wrote his first song at age 14, convinced GDiningCommunity Directorythat it would vault him to in- G Guest Columnist stant fame. His mother told him it was “very nice” and to Culture of Innovationtake out the garbage. UnitesHe has Two of Slam Dancing in HeavenCalifornia’s been Legacy writing feverishly Cheesemakers since then, trying to gain her ap- by Philip J. Russell esteemed portfolio of artisanal wo icons of Cali- rindedproval. cheese, He hasand livedtwo second- in the cheese plants specializes in AOP “The glory is not in never at the top of the pass and slung rooting intofornia our packscheesemak for the- placedairy nodscountry went of west to Cabecou, Petaluma (appellation) cheeses such as falling, but in rising every time our packs down, sitting upon warm clothinging, Laura that hadChenel’s been afor slightly 28+ years,aged button-shapedduring which Epoisses, Langres, Selles-Sur- you fall.” a ragged rock bench, digging carried largelyChèvre unused and Marinfor al- cheesetime he marinated has overseen in oila small and Cher, Crottin de Chavignol, and Chinese Proverb for some last tidbits of food, TFrenchmost twoCheese, weeks. collected No asooner com- herbs,business, and Chabisbuilt a4-Peppercorn, homestead, Rocamadour. ACS orchestrates t was the late summer looking down at the far town binedhad weseven donned top prizes sweatshirts at the an- acoached/refereed pillow-shaped fresh youth chèvre. sports, the annual competition by of 1975, and standing in the shimmering distance, nualand Americanjeans that Cheesewe turned Society to- keptWith his wife a andcombined kids laughing, 180 (ACS) Judging and Competition pairing teams of technical and just above the timber- and talking about dinner. We wards the valley to witness a yearstraveled of cheesemaking to a few distant between spots, upon the rocky cliffs that now held August 3 in Raleigh, North them, Laura Chenel’s Chèvre esthetic judges composed of 34 line the world seemed were leaner than when we had phenomenon I know we will and survived leukemia. He lay dreaming in the glow. Carolina. Competing against and Marin French are widely food science academics and trade Ienveloped in a golden glow. started, and were looking for- never forget. walks Roscoe the Wonder Dog In the early pages of J.R.R. SundayThink Fun ofDays Tres Hombres 1,711 entries (the largest number considered two of California’s professionals. ACS is a nonprofit Bob, Michael and I were re- ward to a whole new variety The cold front had hit everyday, smiling. Tolkien’s "The Silmarillion," Brunch withfor endless all your champange. of American artisan cheeses to be foremost cheesemaking pioneers. trade organization founded turning from a 12-day back- of food groups denied us at the lazy warm air rising out of he states that in the begin- Adults $19.95,catering Children needs. $9.95 entered into the judging to date), Acquiredjoin the fray. in 2006 and 2011, in 1983 to support the North packing trip that had crossed our spare campsites – one of the valley with sledgehammer ning of all things there was the two northern California sister respectively,In full byretreat, a family-owned we then American artisan and specialty from Kings Canyon National those food groups decidedly force, changing its composi- music, that God summoned companies scored individual bests Frenchbegan jogging company, down Rians, the trail. the cheese industry. Park into Sequoia National being beer. tion and character immedi- the angels to make a beautiful for goat cheese (Laura Chenel’s brandRealizing name that of theLaiteries three H.or Complete competition Park and back again via the We were perched so we Chèvre)ately. Atand first, cow hugecheese wafting(Marin harmony and their harmony Triballat,four miles the before two companies the trail- results are at www.cheesesociety. John Muir trail -- accessed could gaze east towards our French).suggestions of vapor began went out into the Void and arehead joined would under not onebe attained,artisanal org. outONE of the PICTURE trail-head IS above WORTH fantasies 1,000 of mole WORDS chicken, yet to wobbleC o l l e skyward c t i v e l y,out oft hthe e then there was no longer a cheesemakingwe sought shelter umbrella. in a Rians’small Bishop, CA. could still look back into the cheesemakerscanyon. Then, scooped as the uptemper four- void. Looking back upon our copse of pines, wedging our We had just left the main depths of the canyon and see prizesature continuedin the competitive dropping Soft and chance encounter with the in- three adult bodies into Bob’s trail, climbing out of a steep the snaking shape of the Muir Ripenedthe wind Cheese rose in categorytempo, the-- finite, I am reminded that we two-man tent. It snowed into and narrowly defined canyon as it wound North-South be- Lauravapor Chenel’s began Chèvreto congeal took intofirst are merely spectators looking the night, and we told bad up to the pass that would cross low the towering rock crags. placea more for opaque Mélodie, mist, its pouringnewest out into mysteries that may cheese, and Marin French won jokes until sleep overcame us back onto the path to the Quite suddenly, with the skyward with palpable passion be explained in physical terms three awards for Original Brie, us -- awakening to foot-deep trail-head. The climb took us belligerence of a drunken from one end of the canyon but cannot be understood ex- Triple Crème Brie, and Original drifts upon and around the from roughly 6,500 feet el- longshoreman -- a “take-no- to the other -- and before we cept in terms of wonder. Camembert. Marin French, tent. evation to just over 9,000 feet prisoners” get-out-of-my- could move ten yards, huge The music that changed A Footballmeal of Angeloʼsseason is smoked sausage sausages season. founded in1865, is the longest In rueful amazement, we at theis rocky welcomeAngelo’s and jaggedany 14 day varieties crest of the kitchen week!lead the 12attitude league. varieties! -- a freezing thunderheads began building the void is both within us operating cheese company beheld a crystal blue early of the pass. It was about 2:30 wind came roaring out of the in quick-step columns as far and all around us. I propose in the United States and has morning without a cloud in in the afternoon, and the sky North, cold and harsh. It laid as we could see. that we are all leaning hard ANGELO’S MEATS won numerous awards for sight and a fresh warming overheademail [email protected] was bright blue withm or visitfull Angelossmokehouse.com assault upon the calm The air began to pulse into the storm of our life ex- its California-made Brie and breeze upon our faces. We tiny2700 cotton-ball Adobe clouds Road, scat Petaluma,- warm summer’s 707.763.9586 air and shred- and hum with an irregular perience, hoping with fury Camembert cheeses over the past slipped and slid down the tered around. The tempera- ded it like a cat attacking rhythm, shocking our ears and and desire for healing and for decades. slushy trail to the truck and ture was a comfortable 80 de- Kleenex. The temperature skin. I had seen rapid climate a clear blue sky amidst the Mélodie is an ash-coated enjoyed heuvos rancheros grees, and the three of us were dropped 50 degrees in less change in the high country chaos surrounding us. semisoft goat cheese introduced with iron-clad coffee sitting wearing just boots, T-shirts, than fifteen minutes, during many times, but nothing so by Laura Chenel’s Chèvre in by the window looking back shorts and caps as we emerged which time we were madly Octoberrapid, rhythmic 2011, following or profound. the completionThe light changedof a new from state-of- yel- the-artlow to white.creamery in Sonoma. “ThisBy is a the significant time we achievement moved to forre-strap the first our new packs cheese it seemed to come as Tomalesfromthough our new-born Sonoma cloudscreamery,” were sayspouring Marie with Lesoudier, ecstatic General aban- Managerdon from of the Laura now deepenedChenel’s LeandroTreatTreat yourself yourself to to an an iced espresso espresso drink, bydrink, Linda Marlow Swap Chèvre and Marin French shadows below, and as the a healthyaCheck healthy fruit fruitout smoothie oursmoothie cool or oriced brewed teas iced foriced tea! tea! Cheese.increasing “We chill are drove proud us of from our We’reSummer still roasting brewing your or coffeeenjoy everyday,a smoothie too... cheesemakers, who are obsessed We’re still roasting your coffee everyday and Meet our perch to seek the trail, it it can’t getat anyour fresher Espresso & Barbetter -- than that! Sunday, Sept 19th, 9am - 3pm with both perfecting our existing it can’t get any fresher & better than that! began to snow, at first lightly, Weekdays from 7:30 to 5:30. Over 70 booths, located in downtown Tomales! products and innovating to WeekdaysSaturdays from from 7:30 8:00 AM toto 5:304:00. PM For information call 707-878-2431 then with determination. Weekdays from 7:30 to 5:30 develop exciting new cheeses. It’s Saturdays from 8 AM to 4:00 PM We held our position as Saturdays from 8:00 to 4:00 Thanks to our sponsors: Continental Inn, gratifying to be recognized by our Tomales Bakery, Diekmanns General Store, colleagueslong as weand dared, customers took in onethe Petaluma Coffee & Tea Tomales Deli, Coast Roast Coffee, Mostly look back at the rocky bench 212212 – 2nd– 2nd Street, Street, south of of D D Natives Nursery, David D.