SOUTHERN JUTLAND 229 Danfoss Universe © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Kolding Møgeltønder Ribe Rømø Fanø

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Wrapping your head around the mind- Envying Checking out the b princess fantasies in fairy-tale Indulging to Heading from modern, industrial Esbjerg Joining the night watchman on a memo-

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

The islands of Als, Fanø and Rømø have clear-cut appeal for beach-going clear-cut holidaymakers, have and Rømø of Als, Fanø islands The But the jewel in Southern Jutland’s crown, and an absolute must-see, is picturesque little picturesque is must-see, Jutland’s crown, and an absolute But the jewel in Southern

may also be ticking off their list. must-sees the region. An eclectic mix of royal-watchers, castle-collectors chair-enthusiasts the region. and even and surrounding marshland bring an abundance of feathered friends (and their fanciers) to of feathered and surrounding marshland bring an abundance but bird-watchers also love this region. The tidal rhythms of the west-coast Wadden Sea tidal rhythms of the west-coast The this region. but bird-watchers also love the imposing presence of the cathedral. the imposing presence with the skewwhiff charm of the half-timbered houses, the sweetly meandering river and houses, the sweetly meandering river with the skewwhiff charm of the half-timbered you get over the armies of tourists wielding ice-cream cones, you can’t help but fall in love tourists wielding ice-cream the armies of fall in love cones, you can’t help but you get over Ribe, the country’s oldest town. This is historic Denmark at its most photogenic, and once is historic Denmark at its most photogenic, and once Ribe, the country’s oldest town. This Sea, and its links to the UK mean it could well be your first introductionSea, and its links to the to Denmark. off the back of oil, fishing and trading. Its focus is to the west, to the oilfields of the North Its and trading. off the back of oil, fishing the ‘wild frontier’ about it – a new city (by Danish standards) that has grown big and affluent it – a new city (by Danish standards) that has the ‘wild frontier’ about particularly in camping grounds on Rømø or Als come high summer. Esbjerg has a touch of Esbjerg particularly summer. camping grounds on Rømø or Als come high in and Sønderborg you can feel the historic ties with Germany – and the present-day ones, too, – and the present-day the historic ties with Germany you can feel and Sønderborg mainland Europe (the current border dates only from 1920), and in places such as Tønder only from 1920), and border dates (the current mainland Europe naturally, but also beyond that. Southern Jutland is the only partnaturally, but also beyond to of Denmark connected design museums. The region looks for inspiration from a few different sources – from the sea, different a few looks for inspiration from region The design museums. towns, with unexpectedly modern treats in the form of edgy art and architecture and offbeat in the form of edgy art modern treats and architecture towns, with unexpectedly region of salty little offshore islands, understated royal palaces and character-filled historic palaces and character-filled royal islands, understated of salty little offshore region There’s a surprising grab bag of goodies for travellers in Southern Jutland. It’s a low-key in Southern for travellers grab bag of goodies a surprising There’s Southern Jutland SOUTHERN JUTLAND station. Tourist office Tourist Paradise Surfers Post office Library Bank Danske Information combination. Denmark isrenowned for. It’sawinning to admire themodernfurniture designthat the town’sheart,youcanheadtoTrapholt thecharmingstroll through oldquarters at the hill-topcastleof After a Koldinghus. summed upinoneof itsmajor drawcards, pleasing mixof oldandnew,wonderfully nently likeable mid-sizedtownwithacrowd- Kolding isavibrant,picturesque andemi- pop 55,000 230 Akseltorv 8; Akseltorv Koldinghus andTrapholt. Kolding(100kr),whichoffers free entryto the Kulturkort Sat) Knowledgeablestaffhelpwithtowninfoandsell new librarywithfree internet. 11; perhr36kr; KOLDING 12 (UK) To Harwich SOUTHERN JUTLAND Sylt OTENJTAD • odn SOUTHERN JUTLAND••Kolding N ORTH Rindby Marbæk ( % S EA Esbjerg 175 24 h (Banegårdspladsen 8) Next tothetrain (Banegårdspladsen8)Next 30 Rømø Lakolk 79 79 11 00; Slotssøvejen 4) Seriously sleek 79 1100;Slotssøvejen4)Seriously Nordby (Jernbanegade 3) (Jernbanegade ( h List Havneby Mandø 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 419 % Fanø Sønderho 11 ( Varde E20 noon-3am) Internetcafé. % 76 332100;www.visitkolding.dk; Bramming 75 50 18 19; 2nd fl, Jernbanegade 75 501819;2ndfl,Jernbanegade Højer Møgeltønder

401 Ribe 425 25 179 24

425 Å 32 437 Guldhornene Skærbæk Ribe Holsted Tønder G ERMA NY 417 8 25 179 Løgumkloster 401 Vejen Gram Toftlund 469 24 Frøslevlejren Tinglev To Hamburg Vojens (150km) Jels 179 ing collectionsof historicpaintingsandsilver- therealthough are gooddisplays,too,includ- new architectural ahighlight, styles isindeed structures.steel oldand Theinterplay between internally bystrikinglymoderntimber-and- now, shininglike before never andsupported it would beleftinruins.Ifonlytheycouldsee common school of was thatthecastle thought wasatwarandbankrupt,the Danish state Hall andontothecastlechapel. Atthetime, fire theGreatcaught through andcollapsed covered walls.Thetowerthenspectacularly in ablazeof glorythatleftnothingbutsoot- turned intoaninferno, thecastleup sending a fire torestore someinnerheat.Thisheatsoon ing theMediterranean summer,thesoldiers lit ish soldiers duringtheNapoleonicWars. Miss- 1808 –atthattimethecastlewashostingSpan- tury. Theyearof itsmostrecent mishapwas you todaycanbetracedtothemid-15thcen- before1268, whilepartsof thecastleyousee bulent history.Afortress occupiedthelandin extravagant showpiece, withtherequisite tur- 1; adult/child65kr/free; Koldinghus Sights 42 47 25 E45 E45 170 Padborg Kruså 8

( % Aabenraa E45 Kolding Flensburg Christiansfeld Haderslev 41 76 33 81 00; www.koldinghus.dk; Adelgade 76 338100;www.koldinghus.dk; Adelgade Gråsten To Vejle(10km); Middelfart h Århus (80km) Nordborg 0 0 10am-5pm) Dybbøl Augustenborg Fredericia L ile Årø B ælt Universe Danfoss Sønderborg lonelyplanet.com isthetown’s Fynshav Als Mommark E20 8 10 miles 427 FUNEN Kegnæs To Odense Bøjden 20 km To Søby (30km) (Ærø)