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UP Tourism Presents Travel Trails 1 UP Tourism Presents Travel Trails Promoting Tourism in Uttar Pradesh The UP Tourism Directorate, established in 1974, looks after preparation and execution of schemes to promote tourism. These include organising commercial activities, maintenance and promotion of the history and tradition of Uttar Pradesh. This helps in enhancing involvement of private sector to develop facilities in the state and promoting the art and craft of the state among other things. Among the most important heritage rich cities that UP Tourism promotes, is the city of Lucknow. The name Lucknow itself evokes emotions and reactions of wondrous nostalgia. Its culture blends aesthetics, elegant graciousness and impeccable mannerisms and has been renowned for its poetry, music and other distinctive art forms. Amongst these is Chikankari, one of the most appreciated art of delicate "Hand Embroidery", which is not only famous in India but also praised in every corner of the world. Chikankari Industry Introduction: Chikankari was invented in Lucknow during the Mughal period and began as white-on-white embroidery. Pre-partition; the main buyers were from the Muslim community, concentrated to Dhaka, parts of Pakistan, Hyderabad and Lucknow. In the 1990s, this industry shifted from being oligopolistic to a monopolistic one, with many new entrepreneurs entering the market. Today, Chikan embroidery in Lucknow is the biggest artisan cluster of India employing about 2.5 lakh artisans. They come from fields such as cutting and stitching. Washer men are also an important part of this cluster which makes the total number of artisans associated with the industry to be 5 lakhs. A detailed exhibit showing the typical Chikan embroidery cluster is given at the end of the case. It is an international market for its world known Chikankari work. The History & Evolution: An integral part of Indian culture since 655 AD, Chikankari was strongly rekindled by Moghul queen Noor Jehan. Later, it not only enjoyed patronization of the Moguls, but also attained perfection as the exquisite needlework and hand work underwent further honing and refinement. Admired all over the world today, the art has trickled into every section of India, especially in the fashion industry; thanks to the contribution of different forms of medium like films and fashion shows. Financial Status of Industry Current Status: Today, the annual turnover of this industry is ₹ 600 crore. About 15% of the total fabric production of the country is from Uttar Pradesh and around 30% of the total artisans in India are employed in Chikankari industry. Also, this industry generates a revenue of about US$1.2 2 UP Tourism Presents Travel Trails billion in the state annually. In 2013-14, U.P.’s GDP contributed to 8.46% of the national GDP (U.P.’s GDP–886,410; India’s–10,472,807). Chikankari contributes 8.12% to U.P.’s GDP (Annual revenue: $1.2b). Exports: Direct export of Chikan apparels is estimated to be around ₹ 60 crore. Indirect export would be at least ₹ 200 crore annually, thus making the potential for export very large. Performance of Industry and problems faced: Despite the global recognition of the industry, it’s Lucknow that has still sustained an unrivalled supremacy in producing the finest Chikan in India. The Chikan work is used in a variety of areas these days – from ladies suits and garments to table covers and cushion clothes. The process followed for manufacturing these different products may not be the same. An exhibit at the end of the case shows the difference in the processes followed by the industry for two different products (i.e. between suits and sarees). In spite of the long alliance between Bollywood and Chikankari, there was a recurring problem that the industry faced. The craftsmen based in Lucknow reluctant to alter the craft according to the needs of the fashion industry or general customer specially youngsters. They feared that this will dilute the originality of the art form which they held dearly. However, there has been a change in the attitude of these conservationist craftsmen lately. Due to the exposure and also the increasing demand for the craft because of commercial successes like Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Gham, Hum Saath Saath Hain, Mughal-e-Azam, these craftsmen have found a more adaptive and accommodative attitude which has helped the industry. The change in attitude and a sense of professionalism among the younger generation of Chikankari workers have made them an indispensable property in the Bombay fashion mart as well as the colourful world of Bollywood. There are many other problems that the industry faces today. The workers employed in the industry are predominantly women. But because of lack of regulation, most of these workers are exploited because they are denied minimum fair wages. Due to lack of awareness and also due to the lack of representation in any government body, these workers have to settle for the meagre emoluments their employers deem fit. Some big players with large outlets dominate the market. They have considerable freedom in both, deciding the wages to be paid to the workers, as well as, deciding the price to be charged from the customers which allows them to garner significant profit margins. Looking at the craft, as with any other industry, the Chikan industry is also facing a tough competition from China, because of machine-made imitations. These imitations have dominated the international market due to low pricing. Adding to that, the fabric has not been able to attract the youth due to poor branding. Hence, due to these problems coupled with other factors such as significantly huge time taken to produce the end product and poor understanding amongst the workmen of market demand, the industry is not performing up to its full potential. 3 UP Tourism Presents Travel Trails Initiatives Underway Government Intervention: Textile clusters (Trade Facilitation Centre) - Giving a shot in the arm to indigenously produced textile, the finance ministry announced last year its decision to set up seven textile mega-clusters in the country. Three of the seven will be set up in Uttar Pradesh, at Varanasi, Bareilly and Lucknow. A budget of Rs. 500 crore has been set aside for setting up the mega clusters. The decision, widely welcomed by domain experts is set to boost the local handicraft comprising the Benarasi silk, Lakhnavi Chikankari and zardozi and Bareilly's indigenous kite string. Women Entrepreneurship Promotion Scheme 2014-15 - Uttar Pradesh government has started this scheme to empower women and ensure their participation in the process of industrialisation. Under the scheme, unemployed women are eligible for easy seed capital to start their own micro or small enterprise. The loan, provided by nationalised banks, financial institutions or the State Financial Corporation, is for the purchase of plant and machinery. The beneficiaries are entitled to a loan of Rs 50,000 per year at five per cent interest, subject to a ceiling of Rs 250,000 in five years. Some other recent initiatives by the government include: - MANAS (Maulana Azad National Academy for Skills), an initiative for promoting skill development by imparting training to the minority population - USTTAD (Upgrading the Skills and Training in Traditional Arts / Crafts for Development) at Varanasi which is one of the main hubs of Arts and Crafts associated with the minorities - ‘Nai Manzil’ which was launched by the Ministry of minority affairs in August this year which intends to target school drop-outs, Madarsa-qualified students, etc. for enhancement of their education with skill training - Chief Minister Akhilesh Yadav, on behalf of the government of Uttar Pradesh has announced the annual Kaifi Azmi Award for excellence in the arts, which carries a cash prize of Rs 5 lakhs. This will help deserving artistes pursue their dreams. Other Stakeholders: NGOs: The mission of this Self Employed Women's Association (SEWA-Lucknow), which was established with 31 women in 1984, is providing its member artisans' direct, appropriate and timely wages. The USP, of course has been the rejuvenation of Chikankari itself. It has succeeded remarkably in restoring the dignity of the craft. Currently, "Chikankari" products are much sought after by global connoisseurs involving renowned designers, boutiques and fashion houses, and SEWA has done a remarkable job in making Chikankari products available for them which has helped the workers reach out to a new market. SEWA’s prime objective has always been making the craftswoman excel in her vocation as well as in the quality of her life. 4 UP Tourism Presents Travel Trails Private Sector and E-Commerce: More and more young entrepreneurs are realizing the value of Chikankari and the huge opportunity that exists in by marketing Chikankari work through new channels. Apparel e-commerce sites are increasingly introducing Chikankari works in their range of offerings and are realizing huge profits from them. Some recent examples have been Shopatplaces, Myntra, Fabindia etc. Adirag, founded by a young entrepreneur Aditi Garg, is helping the artisans match the palate of the modern buyer, “By partnering with artisans across the country, we are not only preserving the rich and diverse culture of India, but also offering contemporary-chic and sophisticated fashion products.” Case Key Aspects of the case: 1. Why, despite huge domestic and international demand for the product, the Chikankari market has been unable to capitalise and grow outside UP? 2. What can UP Tourism do to leverage this craft to attract more tourists while at the same time improving the industry practices to improve the present condition of workmen employed here? Deliverables from Participants: Create a detailed marketing strategy for UP Tourism to promote tourism by leveraging the Chikan Industry i. Objective - Create awareness among domestic and international tourists about industry using advertising campaigns.
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