Quick viewing(Text Mode)

2017 – a LEGENDARY YEAR Here’S a Run-Down of What You’Ll Find on the Legends Past Following Pages and What to Get up to When You’Re out and About

2017 – a LEGENDARY YEAR Here’S a Run-Down of What You’Ll Find on the Legends Past Following Pages and What to Get up to When You’Re out and About

Cambrian Coastline Llŷn Peninsula 2017

2017 – A LEGENDARY YEAR Here’s a run-down of what you’ll find on the Legends past following pages and what to get up to when you’re out and about.

2 At a glance – 20 Legendary 34 Festivals and events and present a snapshot of our adventures six holiday areas 36 Further information 22 Cycling and 4 Welcome to our 37 Places to stay Inside out Year of Legends 24 Food glorious food 38 Travel information This year, we’ve produced a slightly 6 Coast and country, and map different travel and holiday guide. It’s and culture 26 All at sea – based around the theme of legends beaches, watersports 40 Take your pick – 8 Legendary and wildlife ’s holiday areas to reflect the fact that 2017 is Wales’s experiences old ‘Year of Legends’. This follows on from and new 28 Attractions and 2016’s ‘Year of Adventure’, and will activities – be succeeded in 2018 by the ‘Year 10 Legendary places ideas to get you chosen by local going: narrow-gauge of the Sea’. celebrities railways, family activity parks, World Each theme focuses on Wales’s strengths – the 14 Myth, mystery Heritage castles adventurous ‘Great Outdoors’, the country’s and folklore and caverns, myths, history and heritage, and the fact that birdwatching, three of Wales’s four sides are washed by the sea. 16 The poet Hedd shopping, art and Wyn remembered crafts, museums What’s good for Wales is very good for and galleries, Snowdonia Mountains and Coast, which 18 Stargazing in our fishing, golf, horse embraces those three themes like no place Dark Skies riding, adrenaline else. For 2017, this guide reveals all about our adventures legendary landscapes and the people who have shaped the character of . Join the conversation and in touch visitsnowdonia.info They are legendary figures past and present. We’ll facebook.com/visitingsnowdonia Keep up to date with what’s happening and bring you the thoughts of famous local lads Bryn twitter.com/visit_snowdonia what’s new by joining us on our social networks. flickr.com/visit_snowdonia Terfel and Dave Brailsford, knighted ‘Sirs’ both. Don’t forget, it’s a two-way process. Let us visitsnowdonia.wordpress.com Going back a bit, you’ll learn about the Princes know what you think, and share your thoughts, pinterest.com/visitsnowdonia of . They really existed, though we’re images and videos with others. not too sure about some of the stories involving instagram.com/visitsnowdonia .com/VisitSnowdonia swords, magicians and dragons associated with King Arthur (they make a good read, though). Published by: Tourism, Marketing and Customer Care Service, Economy and Department, Cyngor Gwynedd, County Offices, Caernarfon, Gwynedd LL55 1SH. Copyright © 2017. What we can say for certain is that Snowdonia Cyngor Bwrdeistref Sirol County Borough Council. [email protected] Mountains and Coast plays a starring role in Guy Editorial written by Writerog Ltd, Roger Thomas Freelance Services, writerog.co.uk Richie’s new film, King Arthur: Legend of the Sword. Designed and produced by View Creative Agency, viewcreative.co.uk Much of it was shot on location here, so take a Printed by W. O. Jones Printers Ltd, wojprint.co.uk look (it’s due for release in May). Photographs: © Alamy; © Alan Dop Photography; © Alex Meacock, Camera Drone UK; © Alun Fôn Williams; © APCE/SNPA; © Attractions of Snowdonia; © BBC Cymru; © Council; © Crown Copyright (2016) ; © Crown Copyright (2016) Visit Wales © Cyngor ; And take a good look though this guide. As well as © Graig Wen; © Jan Davies; © Kris Williams; © ; © Images/John our legendary past we also feature experiences Miller; © Owain Fôn Williams; © Swift Holiday Homes;© Trefeddian Hotel; © VisitBritain/Ben Selway; © Waitrose and attractions from here and now that are Good Food Guide; Illustration: © Brett Breckon (page 14) already the stuff of legends. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure accuracy in this publication, the publishers can accept no liability whatsoever for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions, or for any matter in any way connected with or arising out of the Roger Thomas, Editor publication of the information. Please check all prices and facilities before making your booking. When you’ve finished with the guide please forward to a friend or place in a suitable recycling container. ‘Land of contrasts’ is one of those That’s not quite so surprising when overused clichés scattered around travel you consider that guides with gay abandon. But here, it Snowdonia Mountains and Coast embraces happens to be true. One minute you’re the Snowdonia National up, up and away in the mountains. Park, Llŷn Peninsula (an Area of Outstanding Next stop, you’re on the beach. It’s Natural Beauty) and no exaggeration to say that you can around 200 miles of coastline. To give you feel on top of the world in the morning an instant picture of the (’s peak experience), and have way things change so quickly in these parts, At a glance Saharan quantities of sand beneath your we’ve split our region feet in the afternoon (at , Dinas into six areas. Black Rock Sands Dinlle or Black Rock Sands).

Criccieth, Southern Snowdonia Conwy Valley and Bangor, Caernarfon, Llŷn Peninsula and the A castle-crowned More mountains – plus Hiraethog Llanberis and the Go out on a limb Vale of Cambrian Coastline lakes and forests History, wooded hills and Villages of Snowdonia Oakwoods, beaches and heather moors Tops for mountains, castles It’s ‘Snowdon’s arm’, a adrenaline activities Along with the We have our own north/ and activities wildly beautiful peninsula Llŷn Peninsula, Cardigan south divide. Southern What a difference a few that wraps you in a strong There’s coast – the Bay puts the ‘coast’ into Snowdonia still has miles can make. The green, Mister Big in these parts embrace. Llŷn’s mix of southern shores of the Snowdonia Mountains mountains – lots of them fertile Conwy Valley is is – guess? – Yr Wyddfa/ culture and heritage, Llŷn Peninsula and the and Coast. Mountains – but they are greener flanked on the west by thick Snowdon, the highest traditional farmsteads and hauntingly beautiful meet the sea all along and rounder than those forests. Cross to the east mountain in Wales and little ports, beaches, bays Dwyryd Estuary. And this lovely shoreline – up north. Cader Idris and you’ll enter Hiraethog England. But it’s by no and sea-cliffs is quite unlike there’s country – lots but most memorably dominates the scene, (also called the means the only attraction. anything else you’ll find of it, including chunks at two outstandingly rearing its misty head Moors), an unexplored There are mountain lakes in Wales – or elsewhere, of mountain and beautiful estuaries, above , while world of heather moorland and wooded valleys too, for that matter. Little the wooded Vale of Mawddach and Dyfi. further east the Aran, set beneath big skies. All in and a coastline of big wonder, then, that the Ffestiniog. So you’re Other highlights include and Berwyns all, this is an area of great beaches and sheltered coast is a protected ‘Area not short of scenery. mighty World Heritage rise above Bala and Llyn variety, with the mountain straits. Man-made places of Outstanding Natural It’s the same when it Site-designated Harlech Tegid, Wales’s largest village of at one also make it into the big Beauty’. Walk it by following comes to attractions and Castle, picturesque natural lake. There end and the historic walled league, especially world- the Llŷn Coastal Path (now places to visit – this part and little are forests too – most town of Conwy on the famous Caernarfon part of the all-Wales Coast of Wales is especially railways at famously, the Coed other. In between you’ll find Castle. And attractions Path). rich in history, heritage and . y Brenin Forest Park, Betws-y-Coed, a buzzing like Zip World Velocity in and culture. Don’t miss known far and wide country town. Bethesda have helped bring , the for its world-class Snowdonia Mountains and old slate capital reborn mountain biking. Coast worldwide fame as an as an internationally activity hot spot. acclaimed activity centre.

2 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast visitsnowdonia.info 3 2017 is Visit Wales’s ‘Year of Legends’. The legends of yesterday and today Surf Snowdonia Our legends take on many forms. They apply to people and places, sights and sounds, They couldn’t have chosen a more past and present. appropriate theme – after all, You’ll encounter them at in the lovely Valley near , we’re a country with an epic where it’s said there was a great battle between the red and the white dragon (guess who won?). They’re there in Aberdyfi, past and rich heritage. New for old where a tidal bell tolls for the fabled It’s a theme that plays out particularly well here in Snowdonia Mountains But here’s the thing. New legends are kingdom of Cantre’r Gwaelod, submerged and Coast. Myth, folklore and legend envelope our mountains and cling being created as we speak – at places like beneath Cardigan Bay. to our coastline, with tales of wizards, princes and dragons, historic quarries and slate mines reborn Palatial is a medieval shipwrecks, sunken kingdoms and sea monsters. as adventure (with a capital A) centres with the fastest ziplines in the world and, below monument that casts its net far and wide, ground, acrobatics on giant subterranean evoking memories of Imperial Rome, trampolines. In the Conwy Valley there’s and the ancient Celtic folk another world’s first – an inland surfing tales known as the Mabinogi. lagoon, no less. Let’s finish by shifting gear from 13th- As recently wrote: ‘The century Caernarfon to 2017. If zooming old favourites are still there. But there are now down a zip wire at over 100mph in a quarry some new exciting ingredients in the mix.’ near Bethesda isn’t a legendary experience, we’d like to know what is.

Conwy Castle Looking One of the best on Legendary looks World Heritage Sites, little But it’s not all Game of Thrones. railways and culture forward the planet Snowdonia Mountains and Coast is They all sit well with our other legendary for a multitude of reasons. legendary experiences. We’re home to For a start, our beauty is legendary, three World Heritage Sites (Caernarfon, In 2018 Wales’s theme Leading travel publisher Lonely Planet has listed hardly surprising since we’re mostly Conwy and Harlech castles), not to will be ‘The Year of the North Wales high in the top 10 ‘Best in Travel’ wrapped up within the Snowdonia mention a complete history book of Sea’, during which we’ll National Park. At 823 square miles it’s places ranging from ancient stone be celebrating our salty regions to visit in 2017, beating places like South

Welcome to our year of legends to our year Welcome the third largest in the UK, stretching circles to workshops preserved just as maritime heritage and Australia and Chile. It came a resounding fourth on from the heights of Snowdon all the they were when the last slate miners hundreds of miles of the strength of its beauty, activities and food. Here’s way down to the sea. And the bit that’s clocked off. Slate shaped North Wales coastline, which take in what they had to say: ‘North Wales deserves to be outside the Park – the Llŷn Peninsula as much as any other historic force, everything from big, sandy – is a designated ‘Area of Outstanding leaving a deep legacy that is currently beaches to intimate coves recognised on the global stage. It’s a stunning area Natural Beauty’ (AONB). the subject of a World Heritage Site bid. and bays. Watch this space. with a vast array of activities (and has) also become the haunt of in-the-know foodies. North Wales is a Then there are the things you can get We have heritage railways by the gem and should be on every traveller’s radar.’ up to in our legendary landscapes. trainload – one even takes you to the You’ve probably guessed a few already: top of Snowdon, the highest point in walking, , mountain biking, southern Britain. And, to accentuate kayaking and so on … all the usual our distinctiveness, you’ll hear Welsh suspects. But there are others too, spoken everywhere. It’s the oldest as we’ll soon reveal. living language in Europe, central to the character and culture of this part of Wales.

4 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast visitsnowdonia.info 5 Mountain high Past masters Culture club Possibly the most Do you like proper castles? Snowdonia Mountains and spectacular gateway to Quite apart from our big Coast has a proud, living Snowdon is the Llanberis three World Heritage Sites heritage which it shares Pass. It’s a pretty awesome (Caernarfon, Conwy and through language, art, slice of countryside, a Harlech) you’d be a cold fish crafts and music. And it’s craggy defile shaped by if you weren’t gripped by accessible to all. Dip your volcanoes and glaciers. the dramatic presence of toes into its deep pool at No wonder it was used as and Dolbadarn, the unique training territory by the mountain-locked bastions of and team that first conquered the Princes of Gwynedd. Or Heritage Centre on the Everest in 1953. If you have fail to be swept away by the Llŷn Peninsula. the inclination, you can tick goings-on at Castle, off more than 90 mountain built by a Welsh warrior Visit the new art and summits in Snowdonia. king, added to by Edward I performance space at of England, and sacked by Pontio, Bangor. Seek out Welsh rebel Owain Glyndŵr. Tŷ Wybrnant near That’s one eventful life. Penmachno, birthplace in 1558 of Bishop William Morgan whose translation of the Bible into Welsh helped secure the future of the language. Delve into our long and eventful history Squeaky clean sand at STORIEL (formerly the between your toes Gwynedd Museum and Art Snowdonia is perhaps the best-known Gallery) in its new home in Our beaches (over 35 in all) Bangor. And pop into craft range from blockbusters Bear feet workshops everywhere for mountain range in Britain. It’s tough like Harlech (where does Follow in the footsteps of items fashioned from slate, it end?) to intimate coves Bear Grylls. ‘The coastal walk wood, wool and glass. and rugged, beautiful and inspiring, and bays like Porth Oer … known as the Edge of on the Llŷn Peninsula – Wales Walk, is spectacular,’ all at the same time. better known, perhaps, as he says. He’s fallen in love ‘Whistling Sands’ since the with Llŷn (who wouldn’t?) – But mountains are just one part Snowdonia Mountains and Coast is grains squeak beneath your so much so that he even

Snowdon is just the start of our story of our story. Snowdon might rule a region of sudden and surprising feet. And since it’s in the bought St Tudwal’s Island the roost. But there are idyllic contrasts. There are lots of reasons care of the National Trust near . lakes and moody moorlands too, for visiting. Here’s a sample to (like a lot of our coastline) ancient oakwoods and green, grassy get you started. you can bet your boots vales. And we haven’t even begun that it’s pure and pristine, to describe the coast, a 200-mile just perfect for building stretch of shore made up of dreamy sandcastles. estuaries, huge beaches, tiny coves and towering cliffs.

6 Snowdon visitsnowdonia.info 7 For families, it may be the Waves and woods It’s what holidays and smiles on the faces of the kids as they ride the world’s first Surf and turf takes on a whole new meaning at Surf Snowdonia in short breaks are all people-powered rollercoaster the Conwy Valley, the world’s first inland surfing lagoon that creates, at GreenWood Forest Park like clockwork, the perfect wave. Just down the road you’ll get your about – that experience near Caernarfon. For couples adrenaline rush from climbing trees (and other dizzying aerial acrobatics) it might be sharing a sunset at at Zip World Fforest. Brand new for 2017 is the Fforest Coaster, a beach or a walk in ‘toboggan run on rails’ that weaves, darts and speeds through the trees. or encounter that lives the woods near Betws-y-Coed.

on, staying with you long Making memories is easy in Highs and lows Snowdonia Mountains and after you’re back home. Coast. Here are just a few ways. We’re Britain’s adrenaline and adventure capital. Where else can you whizz down a zip line at over 100mph, the fastest in the world (at Bethesda), then bounce below in a giant subterranean trampoline, another world’s first (at Blaenau Ffestiniog)?

Blooming Bodnant

Here’s one for the green fingered amongst you. The lush Vale of Conwy is a very green place – and the jewel in its crown is the National Trust’s , one of the finest in Britain. It’s a garden of two halves – formal beds and manicured lawns up above, and the wild, tangled world of The Dell down below. If you’re visiting, be sure to pop into the Bodnant Food Centre nearby for a welshcake or two – and lots of other foodie goodies besides. Legendary experiences Barefoot in Bala Here’s an inspirational journey that you can make too. In 1800, 15-year- old Mary Jones walked 25 miles over the mountains from Cader Idris to Bala to collect a Welsh Bible from the religious leader Rev Thomas Charles. Her inspiring story, which has become the stuff of legend, is told GreenWood Forest Park at Mary Jones World visitor centre at near Bala.

On location Southern exposure Where’s the sea gone? Film companies love the drama and Snowdon, where King Arthur is said You may well ask. Bird’s Rock, , looks somewhat out of grandeur of our mountains. Many to have killed a fearsome giant, place. It rises abruptly from green fields in the low-lying Dysynni Valley movies have been shot here, the latest isn’t our only mythical mountain. near Tywyn. This former sea-cliff is now marooned miles inland due to being director Guy Richie’s big-budget Southern Snowdonia is dominated by the shifting coastline, but no one has mentioned this to the seabirds that swordfest, King Arthur: Legend of the the brooding bulk of Cader Idris, the still nest here. It’s an exhilarating walk to the top – but watch out for the Sword, which will premiere in 2017. legendary ‘Chair of Idris’ the Giant. fearless wild goats who also call Bird’s Rock home. Arthurian tales crop up everywhere Spend the night on his rock-strewn in these parts – is said to summit and you’ll awake a poet. Or be the resting place of , for madman. Or maybe not at all. example. Get in the mood by visiting My house is bigger than your house King Arthur’s Labyrinth in , an Conwy’s narrow medieval streets are crammed with historic houses. Plas enchanting family attraction that in Mawr (The Big House) is a living legend – quite literally. This imposing 2017 unveils its latest feature, Elizabethan townhouse, the finest in the UK, recreates life as it was Dragon River. lived centuries ago through audio and multi-sensory displays. ‘Great for all ages,’ says TripAdvisor. There’s more family fun at the unbelievably tiny fisherman’s cottage on the quay. See if you can all fit into Britain’s ‘Smallest House’.

8 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast visitsnowdonia.info 9 Snowdon and the Snowdon Snowdon Mountain It’s one of the many ‘My mother lives a stone’s Railway lovely beaches on Llŷn. throw from , A predictable – but entirely Llanbedrog’s sheltered Llanberis, with fantastic justifiable – choice. Is sands are particularly views of the mountains. On there a more spectacular attractive to families – and a clear day the temptation train ride in the UK? its much-photographed row to get up to the top of the The Himalayan-style of candy-coloured beach mountain has proved too rack-and-pinion narrow- huts sets the scene for a much and I have climbed gauge line takes you to a genuine seaside experience, Snowdon at least once a 3,560ft/1,085m summit pure and simple. Sir Bryn year for the past 15 years or where the views are, again, recommends that you camp so. I’ve taken the PYG track predictably sensational, at nearby Bolmynydd. a few times, along with the all the way to ’s main path from Llanberis. There’s no better way to Hills. Call into the Hafod Eryri Visitor clear the mind and build Centre for more panoramic It’s impossible not to fall up an appetite.’ views, information and in love with Portmeirion. refreshments. This fantasy village, created Bridge by architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, is a wondrous ‘Whilst completing a charity Legendary places y Fellten, Ridge mish-mash of influences walk from South to North that stretch from the Orient Wales, I had the pleasure of to . Wherever you walking across the bridge look, you’ll see something that spans the mouth of surprising – and something the Mawddach Estuary that makes you smile. and on through Barmouth. What’s more, its lush It literally took my breath away.’ There are so many in The Nantlle Ridge grounds and gardens are almost as enchanting as the This ridge walk is one of village itself. Caernarfon Castle Snowdonia Mountains and the area’s lesser known – but no less spectacular ‘We finished the 200-mile Coast. Four local stars give – high-altitude paths (a walk in the square at head for heights is helpful). Caernarfon, and attended us their choices. It starts from the village a concert held within the of Rhyd Ddu then heads grounds of this stunning west, ending (or beginning, castle to celebrate the finish depending on how you – a fantastic spectacle.’ tackle it) at Mynydd Garn Golf Club Goch, which – surprise, beach surprise – just happens to ‘Another great training loom above Sir Bryn’s destination for me was the home village. Nefyn Golf Club Robin McBryde beach at Pwllheli, which Sir Bryn Terfel stretches for miles.’ Recently honoured Sir Bryn was Sir Bryn likes his golf – especially when Born in Bangor, brought up in , a village near it’s played at the legendary Nefyn & international rugby star The Llŷn Peninsula Penygroes. The opera superstar has District Golf Club. This one-of-a-kind Robin won 37 caps for never forgotten his roots and still links course juts out ferociously into the Wales between 1994 and ‘Pwllheli is the “capital” of calls the area his home. ‘Wherever he sea. ‘It’s like playing off the deck of a 2005. He was recently Llŷn. A proper tour of the travels, the spirit of his native North battleship,’ reckon hardened but shell- confirmed as Wales coach peninsula with a visit to the Wales goes with him,’ said The Daily shocked golfers. To calm the nerves, for the 2017 summer tour National Trust village of Telegraph in an interview. Here are Sir Bryn likes to retreat to another of the Pacific Islands. In his is definitely his favourite places in Snowdonia legendary place – Porthdinllaen’s Tŷ own words, here’s why he something I have down Mountains and Coast. Coch Inn, voted third-best beach bar loves Snowdonia Mountains as a must-do.’ in the world. and Coast.

10 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast visitsnowdonia.info 11 Caernarfon Defined by its World Heritage castle, Caernarfon is a must-visit place. But the towering medieval fortress isn’t the only place on the tick list. There are charming narrow streets too, the modern, arty Doc Fictoria, and the chance to ride the scenic narrow-gauge all the way Lisa Gwilym Bangor Pier Owain Fôn to Porthmadog. Beddgelert Nuclear Power Lisa is a broadcaster, ‘It’s a Victorian gem. Williams When riding the Welsh The pier, the second Station Highland, stop off here. well-known in Owain hails from Penygroes. longest in Wales, takes ‘Yes, you read that Beddgelert is one of Wales, who presents The international footballer, you halfway across correctly. It’s possibly an Snowdonia’s most programmes on BBC who plays for the Scottish the , with odd choice, but the view of picturesque villages, with a Radio Cymru, BBC Premier league side wonderful views. My son this disused power station cluster of stone houses set Radio Wales and , Inverness Caledonian the Welsh language loves walking across it – is spectacular none the beside the River . and I love the tasty cakes Thistle, was part of the You have to visit the grave

Legendary places less. Its two huge concrete TV channel. She lives heroic Welsh team that won served in the tearoom.’ edifices contrast with the of the faithful hound Gelert in with her the hearts of the world by natural green splendour (it’s almost compulsory), husband and young reaching the Euro 2016’s all around. Brutalism at but don’t let the legend son. Here, she tells us all semi-finals. He’s also a its best. Apparently, they of the dog’s heroic death about five of her best. Y Felinheli passionate painter, enjoying were designed to look like upset you too much – it was One of them might raise ‘I’m so happy that this is the sense of ‘isolation and castles in the landscape. Pant Ddu probably the invention of an a few eyebrows... where our home is. The relaxation’ it brings, away It stands next to a lake 18th-century innkeeper with little port of Y Felinheli, from the demands of Now here’s a surprise. A where you can walk, cycle beds to fill. beautifully located on everyday life. His paintings vineyard. In the mountains. or fish.’ the Menai Strait, has a reflect his bond with his local Pant Ddu Vineyard and Orchard, on the slopes of strong community spirit. environment. Places like… I enjoy going to the Fic Dyffryn Nantlle, produces and Gardd Fôn pubs award-winning wines (white, Travel along the Llŷn red and rosé) as well as – and to GreenWood Trefor Peninsula to the ‘land’s Forest Park for some high-quality cider and apple end’ of North Wales and family fun.’ This former quarrying juice. you arrive at Aberdaron. It’s village on Llŷn’s north coast an atmospheric – and quite commands stunning views legendary – place. Discover of mountains as they the peninsula’s unique history plunge down sheer cliffs into and culture at the Porth y Portmeirion the sea. Owain likes to take Swnt visitor centre. And if the ‘It’s a true one-off. The a fishing boat from Trefor weather is kind, take a boat village is quirky and for these views – and those trip to Bardsey, the fabled ‘Isle totally unique, the vision Porthdinllaen looking across to Snowdon. of 20,000 Saints’. of architect Sir Clough ‘This National Trust Williams-Ellis. I love my village on the north Together Stronger by Owain Fôn Williams music (Lisa presents a coast of the Llŷn music programme for Peninsula has been the BBC) so you’ll find the perfect location me at Portmeirion’s for some of my special magical Festival No. 6 occasions. It’s totally in September. It’s one unspoilt with a lovely of the coolest festivals beach. A drink at the in Britain and I’m so waterfront Tŷ Coch Inn is lucky to have it on my a North Wales must-do.’ doorstep.’ 12 visitsnowdonia.info 13 Our book of the year is… The Mabinogi’s magical landscapes take their inspiration from the western shores of Wales. So if we had to pick a ‘book of the year’ for our Year of Legends, there’s only one choice, really…

The stories range far and wide across Wales. The tale firmly rooted in Snowdonia Llyn Barfog Telling tales Telling Mountains and Coast goes by the name of ‘The Dream Dream on No swimming please of Macsen Wledig’. (See Macsen Wledig, or Magnus Quite apart from the cold, ‘Dream on’ for the full story) Maximus, dreams of please don’t dip your toes a faraway land with a into the waters of Llyn Barfog beautiful maiden. He sends (in the hills above Aberdyfi) Saintly steps messengers to find her. and Llyn-yr-Afanc (near According to legend there Eventually they arrive in Betws-y-Coed). They both are 20,000 saints buried Snowdonia, ‘The rugged claim to contain the Afanc, a on (Ynys land that our master vicious aquatic monster that Enlli in Welsh). We’re not saw’. He marries Helen makes Jaws sound tame by sure about the numbers, or Elen, the woman of comparison. But which lake but we do know that three his dreams and daughter has the greatest claim to pilgrimages to Bardsey, on of a Welsh chieftain. The Wales’s Loch Ness Monster? which a monastery was story is a beguiling mix of It may be Llyn Barfog, for founded in AD615, equalled fact and fiction. Magnus legend has it that a nearby one to Rome. Follow in their Maximus served as Roman rock has a hoof print caused footsteps on the Pilgrim’s Emperor from AD383 to by King Arthur’s horse when Way across North Wales 388 and Caernarfon was he dragged the Afanc from to the tip of Llŷn. It’s also an important Roman the deep. claimed that Bardsey is the stronghold – you can still resting place of , King visit the remains of their Arthur’s magician, and fort, Segontium, on the hill Vortigen’s Valley above the castle. served as the inspiration The spectacular road for Avalon, the legendary to Nant Gwrtheyrn We all like a good story. That’s especially Arthurian island. Another tale from the Mabinogi, ‘Branwen, Welsh Language and true in Wales, where the ancient tradition of Daughter of Llŷr’, has links Heritage Centre on the with Harlech – the tragic Llŷn Peninsula near storytelling was passed down word-of-mouth sculpture here, entitled ‘The slices though Two Kings’, is bound up in the cliffs down ‘Vortigen’s by poets and bards to princes and peasants. the story of Llŷr and her ill- Valley’. The Celtic chieftain fated marriage to the King is said to have invited the Then came the written word and Britain’s earliest prose literature, the Mabinogi, of Ireland. Saxons to Britain, paying dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. This collection of tales, based on the oral for this calamitous deed traditions of old, are a heady mix of myth, legend and real history. Their leading by becoming a fugitive lights include princes and maidens, dragons and white horses, and heroic and dying in this ‘gloomy warriors, who inhabit a fantastical world of heightened drama, romance, humour, hollow’. Ironic really, for betrayal, conflict and philosophy. Nant Gwrtheyrn now serves as a beacon for our Celtic heritage.

14 visitsnowdonia.info 15 16 Legendary lives: of natureandromance. were dominatedbynotions romantic poets,histhemes poetry. Influencedbythe (Blessed Peace)forhisearly the bardicnameofHeddWyn shone through,andheacquired Evans’s naturaltalentsoon Born in1887,EllisHumphrey of DylanThomas. English-language poetry detect vestigesofitinthe even saythatyoucan alliteration andrhyme.Some a lineofverseusingstress, sound arrangementwithin (meaning ‘harmony’),acomplex poetry knownascynghanedd hardest disciplinesofWelsh was 12hehadmasteredthe and self-taught,bythetimehe poets, HeddWyn.Precocious one ofthecountry’sgreatest anniversary ofthedeath 2017 seesthe100th own melodiesandrhythms. lyrical languagethathasits with Welsh, aninherently Perhaps it’s something todo Wales isalandofpoets.

A victimofwar weeks earlier. killed inactionsix ‘Fleur deLys’,hadbeen work underthepseudonym poet, whohadenteredhis announced thatthewinning ceremony itwassolemnly the ChairingofBard .During held atBirkenheadon6 at theNationalEisteddfod , wasannounced (The Hero) His winningpoemYrArwr National EisteddfodChair. prize inWelshliterature,the he hadwonthegreatest He neverlivedtoknowthat tale thanthatofHeddWyn? Is thereamorepoignant of thetrenches. it?’ hewrote,ofthehorror uncomfortable trinity,isn’t heavy heart.Thatisan ‘Heavy weather,heavysoul, the RoyalWelchFusiliers. War Onewhileservingwith Passchendaele inWorld shot duringtheBattleof 31 July1917afterbeing death. HeddWyndiedon And hiswasnoordinary He wasnoordinarypoet. of World War One gotowalesremembers.org. For information onthe way inwhich Wales ismarking thecentenary Wales remembers , postedfrom

Wyn family. still livedinbytheHedd pilgrimage, eventhough years itbecameaplaceof Trawsfynydd. Overthe known asYrYsgwrnnear the humblefarmstead taken backtohishome, on. TheBlackChairwas Hedd Wyn’sstorylives Black Chair). (The Eisteddfodofthe as EisteddfodyGadairDdu gathering isnowreferredto in ablacksheet.The1917 empty chairwasdraped life anduntimelydeaththe In honourofHeddWyn’s The BlackChair

Ysgwrn willtoo.’ forever andIhopeYr Gerald: ‘TheParkwillgoon We’ll leavethelastwordto with theA4212. south oftheA470’sjunction Trawsfynydd, accessedjust east fromtheA470near off aminorroadthatruns The houseissignposted Wales’s YearofLegends. will formacornerstoneof Chair. It’saneventthat greatest treasure,theBlack important addition–its Hedd Wyn’stimewithone spring 2017asitwasin Yr Ysgwrnwillreopenin the lastfewyears. conservation workover needed restorationand happening duringmuch- exactly whathasbeen added Gerald.Andthat’s not turnitintoamuseum,’ preserve itasahomeand ‘I’ve askedtheParkto Authority. Snowdonia NationalPark Yr Ysgwrnwassoldtothe nephew ofthepoet.In2012 door open,’saidGerald,a ‘It wasmydutytokeepthe An opendoor visitsnowdonia.info

17 Seeing stars Some of you may remember the late, So, where to look? Well, In general terms, looking Looking north, the stars anywhere really in this part south depending on the here are the same all year great Patrick Moore, the eccentric of Wales. And there’s no seasons you can see round, so can easily be need to invest in expensive Orion the Hunter, Gemini, found on a clear night. The astronomer who, through hosting BBC equipment. Very often, the Sirius, the Pleiades or group of stars known as the naked eye or binoculars will Seven Sisters, the Summer Plough are especially easy TV’s long-running The Sky at Night, first suffice. Triangle, Cygnus, the square to recognise. The others are of Pegasus and the Milky Cassiopeia and, of course, popularised stargazing. Way (our own galaxy). the North Star (or Polaris). If he were alive today, he would – forgive the pun – be over the moon about our fascination with all things heavenly in those infinite galaxies of stars, space and black holes. He’d no doubt also be making a bee-line for the Snowdonia National Park, which Five favourites in 2015 was declared the world’s 10th International Dark Sky Reserve. Here are just a few of the locations where you’ll get a great view of the night sky.

Llyn y Dywarchen A popular fishing lake located alongside

The sky at night the B4418 above the village of Drws y Coed in DyffrynN antlle. It’s just off the A4085 Beddgelert to Caernarfon road at Rhyd Ddu.

Tŷ Cipar This remote former gamekeeper’s house is located high on the , an area of blanket bog rich wildlife that stretches from Ysbyty Ifan to Ffestiniog. It’s on the B4407, about 4½ miles south-west of Ysbyty Ifan and 5½ miles north-east of . This forest-ringed lake, in the hills west of The dark side in the Conwy Valley and accessible via a narrow minor road, has a real sense of So what is a Dark Sky Reserve? It’s Look at it this way: Snowdonia is in solitude, especially at night. a prestigious award given by the the dark, but we’re shining a light The highest surfaced mountain road in Wales, International Dark Sky Association on the heavens. between Dinas and , to places with outstanding night air ‘The Pass of the Cross’ rises to 1,791ft/546m. quality and where real efforts are being Wales as a whole is ahead of the As well as its crystal night skies, it’s also worth made to minimise light pollution. curve. There are also designated Dark visiting in daylight for the amazing terrestrial Sky areas in the Beacons, views, stretching from Cader Idris to the Mind you, we had something of a head Coast and Elan Valley. Berwyn Mountains. start here in Snowdonia Mountains As the Dark Sky Association, based and Coast. Naturally speaking, we’re in Tuscon, Arizona, said: ‘Wales now amongst the darkest places in southern leads the world in the percentage of Britain. Covering a land mass of over its territory enjoying protected status 800 thinly populated square miles, we’re for its night skies… Nowhere else Llynnau Cregennen a dark haven for stargazing, especially in has achieved comparable success in our rugged, mountainous interior. recognising the value of night time A pair of lakes on the flanks of Cader Idris in darkness and taking concrete steps southern Snowdonia, possibly the moodiest in to safeguard it for future generations.’ the entire National Park. The easiest approach is from the east, via the minor road from Dolgellau.

18 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast visitsnowdonia.info 19 20 Legendary adventures chose Snowdonashistraining groundforthefirstsuccessful ascentofMountEverest. on thefearsome slabsandoverhangsoftheLlanberisPass. And SirEdmundHilary Pioneering rockclimbers likethelegendaryJoeBrownand Don Whillanscuttheirteeth reason thanpure pleasure. Snowdonia’s mountainsfor noother promenades, exploring, for thefirsttime, Wales ventured beyond theseaside of adventure. Victorian visitors toNorth already gone down inlegendasaplace Snowdonia Mountainsand Coasthas and theWelshpeople.’ icon andencapsulatesthespiritofWales adventures. Snowdonisaninternational itself sowelltomanyactivitiesand Bear Gryllsisalsoabigfan:‘Waleslends kayaking, it’sveryhardtoleave.’ I’ve beenrunning,,climbingor excited aboutatriptoSnowdonia…Whether to climbEverest,hassay:‘Ialwaysget Here’s whatToriJames,thefirstwoman an inlandlagoon. watersports… includingsurfingon in slatecaverns,andenjoyallkindsof acrobatics upinthetreesanddownbelow zip wires,explorecaverns,performaerial parts. Nowadays,youcanzoomdown continues. We’reaninventivelotinthese legendary adventures.Andthetrend So we’vegotformwhenitcomesto The mothersofinvention walking sectionof that fitsthebill.Forfullpicturegoto miles inlength,you’reboundtofindone they rangefromjustoveramileto10½ developed. Thereare18inall,andsince new seriesofcircularcoastalwalkswe’ve of Dolgellau–and,mostall,the Dolmelynllyn Estateinthewoodsnorth places liketheNationalTrust’slovely We’re thinkingofwalksaroundBalaand for theyarewaymarkedalltheway. all thefamily–andyouwon’tneedamap, easy, well-surfacedcirculartrailssuitablefor we haveagentlersidetoo.Therearelotsof for enthusiasticwalkersiswellknown.But Our reputationasachallenging environment pastime: walking. But let’sstartwithournumber-onefavourite Feet first Aberdaron visitsnowdonia.info

. website formore details. at dedicatedadventure centres.Gotoour multitude ofoutdoorsyskillsyou canpickup paintballing, ziplining,tree-climbing, andthe to ridingandponytrekking,fishing, golf, why. OurGreatutdoorsalsoplayhost That’s whatwe’vebeencalled–and here’s ‘The adventurecapitalofEurope’ a bigsplashsinceopeningfewyearsago. first inlandsurfinglagoonthathasmadesuch Snowdonia intheConwyValley,world’s at LlynBrenig,andridingthewavesSurf of beinginsideagiantfloatingplasticball) torrents oftheRiverTryweryn,zorbing(think like battlingyourwaydownthewhite-water lakes. There’sevensomeoff-the-wallstuff, do ithere–onthesea,orinourriversand like andthere’sagoodchancethatyoucan right place.Nameanykindofwatersportyou If youlikegettingwetyou’vecometothe A biggersplash Barmouth, birthplaceoftheNationalTrust. Shell IslandandtheDinasOleuheadlandat Museum atLlanystumdwy,HarlechCastle, short circularloopoffthePath),LloydGeorge come acrossenrouteincludetheAberFalls(a salty headlands.Themanyhighlightsyou’ll your pickfrompeachybeaches,bigbaysand its 870mileslieswithinourregion–sotake as littleofityouwant.Almostaquarter its kindintheworld,youcanwalkasmuchor more waysthanone)assetthat’sthefirstof the WalesCoastPath,aground-breaking(in (around 200miles,infact).Andthanksto Talking ofthecoast,there’salotithere The coastwiththemost visitsnowdonia.info 21 Remember the days when cycling was Drws y Coed, Nantlle Antur ‘Stiniog, Blaenau Ffestiniog a minority sport fit only for masochists? They’re long gone. Millions of us are now back on our bikes, enjoying fresh air and the exhilarating feeling that the world is Full circle Full spinning beneath our wheels.

Easy riding A mountain Going big in Blaenau A cycling legend But please don’t think that biking legend Blaenau Ffestiniog, the This revolution has been inspired in no small measure by the stellar achievements Snowdonia Mountains and It all started in the Coed y former ‘slate capital of the of the Team, led to multi-gold medal Olympic success by a certain Coast is only suitable for Brenin Forest Park way world’, has put those slate local lad, Sir Dave Brailsford. experienced cyclists. Our back in the 1990s. Modern mountains to very good use highways and byways include mountain biking in Britain by creating the Antur ’Stiniog gentle, family-friendly trails was born here when a bunch mountain biking centre. It Ffordd Brailsford Way too and recreational routes of enthusiasts created the has received rave reviews suitable for all-comers. Some first purpose-built from downhill addicts. ‘An Welsh-speaking Sir Dave hails from the village of near Llanberis. You can follow quiet rural paths, singletrack trails. awesome trail centre’ and ‘A now follow in his wheeltracks thanks to the recent opening of Ffordd Brailsford, the others disused railway lines brilliant addition to the North Brailsford Way. Actually, there are two themed cycling routes – one 50 miles long, – and they’re traffic-light or And how it has grown. Coed Wales MTB scene’ are typical the other 75 – that take in the very best of Snowdonia’s stunning scenery. And along completely traffic-free. y Brenin is now home to comments from breathless the way you’ll encounter some challenging climbs (Sir Dave wouldn’t want it any around 90 miles of routes. bikers. other way) as well as rewarding descents. The , for Just like cycling on the road, example, is a lazy glide along they cater for all abilities. And there’s more world-class The two routes have a lot in common, both involving the Llanberis Pass, a Brailsford the southern shores of the Macho riders make for the mountain biking here – all favourite which he has climbed ‘millions of times’. The shorter route then cuts beautiful Mawddach Estuary 24-mile Beast of Brenin you have to do is head for through the lovely Nant Gwynant Valley to Beddgelert while the longer option takes from Dolgellau to Barmouth, (think of it as a ‘black’ run in the Penmachno Forest. in Betws-y-Coed and Blaenau Ffestiniog. with the highlight of crossing skiing terms), while mellow, The 50-mile route the mouth of the estuary laid-back riders prefer the on the bridge that carries five-mile Yr Afon ‘green’ trail. the Cambrian Coast railway. Find out more by going There’s even a trail for young to Gwynedd Recreational children and riders with Routes in the cycling section disabilities – and everyone of visitsnowdonia.info. looks forward to rounding the day off with cakes and coffee in the visitor centre’s café.

Coed y Brenin Forest Park, near Dolgellau

The Llŷn Peninsula and Bala also have an excellent choice of highly scenic routes suitable for everyone – look out, for example, for the new Llŷn Circular Cycle Routes leaflet.

22 visitsnowdonia.info 23 Lonely Planet placed North Wales fourth Aberdyfi: Seabreeze Betws-y-Coed: Bistro ‘Exposed wood and Betws-y-Coed stonework and glimpses ‘Gerwyn Williams… mostly in the world’s ‘Top 10’ destinations of the sea set the stage takes a traditional approach for wholesome, generous to the cooking, although the in 2017 – and one of the reasons was cooking. As the shelves of tradition may be as much Welsh deli goods suggest, east Asian, say deep-fried down to its food. ‘North Wales has also local fare is championed.’ pork belly on coconut rice with coriander dressing, as become a haunt of in-the-know foodies, closer to home.’ Llanberis: The Peak Abersoch: Porth ‘“Small menu, fresh local so however visitors get their kicks, once Tocyn Hotel produce” is the clarion call ‘A meal in the dining room at this local eatery… and they’ve worked up an appetite, they’ll also … is in old-fashioned hotel- chef Angela Dwyer is true to style but dishes are carefully her word. Expect a colourful done: cauliflower soup with international line-up running Taste buddies Taste be well catered for,’ they said. grain mustard crème fraîche from Thai fishcakes… (to) It’s not just fine dining. As well as polished cuisine at award-winning country house and herb oil; roast corn-fed rump of Welsh lamb.’ hotels and restaurants with rooms, you’ll enjoy good food cooked with care and chicken breast studded with black garlic over truffle passion in homely cafés, bistros and inns. No surprise, really, with such inspirational Dolgellau: Mawddach local produce on the doorstep like Welsh Black beef and lamb (mountain and the mash with ginger-infused Market forces courgettes, baby carrots and ‘Resourceful Welsh farmers tender saltmarsh variety), super-fresh seafood straight from the fishing boat, artisan Local produce markets are farmhouse cheeses… even local wine and beer. red wine jus.’ Will and Ifan Dunn have (converted) one of their held at Conwy, Ogwen and 17th-century barns into Porthmadog (ask locally , Caernarfon for details). Market days Bangor: Blue Sky Café a restaurant and given their home-reared lamb a take place at Barmouth ‘Convivial and cosy, with big starring role on the menu… on Thursday (and Sunday, leather sofas, rustic furniture Ifan’s cooking is more summer only); Caernarfon and a blazing wood-burner. contemporary than you on Saturday (and Monday Soup, sandwiches, burgers might expect.’ May–September); and filled ciabatta make on Tuesday; Porthmadog up much of the menu, but on Friday; Pwllheli on you’ll also find… slow-cooked Wednesday; and Tywyn on Harlech: Castle Cottage Welsh lamb with rosemary Monday (summer only). and garlic.’ ‘Glyn and Jacqueline Roberts took charge of these Grade II-listed premises back in Barmouth: 1989, putting Castle Cottage into the Guide’s list of Bistro Bermo longest-serving restaurants. ‘Things are a little more … Seasonal game always upmarket than the humble gets a good airing on Glyn’s bistro tag might suggest, daily menus.’ with crisp table linen, Buy local The max factor folded napkins and candles Look out for this logo when Quality, honesty, maximum taste and minimal food adding a distinguished feel you’re out and about – it miles are the keynotes. Our bountiful local larder is … (there’s) an extensive means that the shop has used by chefs and cooks to produce everything from menu of classic and signed up to the Buy Local hearty, honest-to-goodness simple fare to imaginative, modern dishes.’ Gwynedd campaign. You’ll precisely flavoured dishes. be helping yourself find something distinctive and We can’t possibly feature the entire menu here – special – and also helping the but to give you a flavour here’s the 2017Good local community. Food Guide’s choice.

24 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast visitsnowdonia.info 25 Here’s one revealing fact: it’s just 10 miles Porth Oer, near Aberdaron from the top of Snowdon to the sea. Here’s another: our coastline stretches for around 200 miles. So when we call ourselves Snowdonia Mountains and All at sea Coast, the watery, sandy bit is just as important as all those peaks, forests

and moors. Coast lines Natural selection Jutting into the sea like an outstretched arm, Much of our seashore is protected as the Llŷn Peninsula is a sanctuary of Celtic National Parkland, Heritage Coast, and ‘Area Just beachy culture, wildlife and pristine coastal beauty. of Outstanding Natural Beauty’. As you’d We have over 35 beaches. Here’s a quick run-down, from north to south, of some of This protected Area of Outstanding Natural expect, wildlife thrives here – go dolphin- our coastal highlights: Beauty and Heritage Coast is home to 90 spotting in Cardigan Bay, or catch the boat miles of secluded bays, rocky headlands and to Bardsey Island, a National Nature Reserve • – long, sandy beach • Pwllheli South Beach (Marian-y- friendly little resorts. And the beauty goes with an international reputation for its wealth with sailing club and attractive De) – a three-mile curve of sand and on and on further south, on the Cambrian of wildlife and spectacular seabird colonies, promenade shingle, backed by rolling Coastline’s beaches, headlands and including Manx shearwaters. • – fun, family-friendly • (Black Rock Sands) mountain-backed estuaries, the inspiration seaside village with large sandy – this big beach’s golden sands, rock of painters and poets. beach. The nearby Traeth Lafan pools and dunes make it a popular Easy riding Nature Reserve is a great place for spot for families Ditch the car and explore our coastline by birdwatching A taste of the sea • Harlech – untouched sandy beach, train or bus. It’s easy. Local bus services take • Dinas Dinlle, near Caernarfon – backed by dunes and theatrically Local menus feature catch-of-the-day seafood. you almost everywhere. Ask about the hop-on, enormous beach with widescreen overlooked by Harlech Castle Tuck into sealicious lobster, crab and scallops hop-off Llŷn Coastal Bus Service, for example. views to match. Great for walkers, caught in Llŷn’s clear waters, fresh sole or bass And for the ultimate ‘train with a view’ with windsurfers and power kiters • Shell Island, – sand, landed by local boats, or that famous Conwy convenient ‘Seaside Strolls’ en route, ride dunes and, of course, shells speciality – rich-tasting mussels sustainably the Cambrian Coast line that travels along • Nefyn – two miles of sweeping hand-raked from their natural home on the Cardigan Bay from to Pwllheli. • Barmouth/Abermaw – bustling sands, scooped out of the coastline seabed, a centuries-old industry (to find in perfect crescents. The impossibly resort town that boasts a huge out more go to the Mussel Museum on the Penmaenmawr pretty National Trust village of sandy beach, plus views over the quayside). Llanfairfechan Porthdinllaen is perfect too mountains and Mawddach Estuary • – popular surfing beach with • Porth Oer, near Aberdaron – a true Tywyn almost five miles of sand, and also Dinas Dinlle one-of-a-kind, with ‘Whistling Sands’ Snowdon that really do squeak underfoot a good place to spot dolphins and Caernarfon Bay porpoises • Aberdaron – broad sandy beach on Llŷn’s ‘land’s end’, sheltered between • Aberdyfi – dramatically located Nefyn Morfa Bychan at the mouth of the Dyfi Estuary, two spectacular headlands Pwllheli this big sandy beach is great for Porth Oer Harlech • – one of our most popular windsurfing and wildlife spotting Abersoch Abersoch Aberdaron resorts. A big hit with families, Shell Island watersports enthusiasts, shoppers Barmouth/Abermaw and people watchers Cardigan B a y Penmaenmawr

Tywyn 26 Aberdyfi We’ve already given you plenty of ideas River Tryweryn Surf Snowdonia to get you thinking about what to see and do in Snowdonia Mountains and Coast. See pages 8/9 for some of our many legendary experiences – everything from wandering medieval Conwy to inland surfing and forest ziplining. Pages 10/13 list places that are local favourites with stars like Sir Bryn Terfel and Robin McBryde.

Pages 18/19 are dedicated to stargazing in our Dark Skies, while our legendary adventures on pages 20/21 embrace land and water, walking and watersports.

The theme is cycling – both road and mountain biking – on pages 22/23. Food is on the menu on pages 24/25, while pages 26/27 focus on all things beachy.

Which brings us to where we are now. On the following pages you’ll find more ideas Your next step Your and themes to help plan your visit. So off you go …

(Unless otherwise stated, go to visitsnowdonia.info for more details.)

Water worlds Fresh (and white) water Give us a wave Inland, our lakes and rivers also overflow Opened a few years ago, Surf Snowdonia in Plas Heli, Pwllheli with aquatic action. Float your boat on the the green Conwy Valley has been a massive UK’s highest sailing venue at Llyn Brenig, hit. No wonder. The world’s first inland surfing one of Wales’s largest areas of inland water lagoon has been designed to produce better 1,200ft/365m up on the . and more frequent waves than any of Britain’s Bala’s Llyn Tegid, the biggest natural lake in beaches. Having said that, when conditions Wales, is a thriving watersports centre. It’s are right the surfing is pretty awesome on close to the River Tryweryn, a torrent that the Llŷn Peninsula at places like Porth Neigwl guarantees white-water (and white-knuckle) (its alternative name, Hell’s Mouth, says it all). rafting thrills at the National White Water For a great day’s wakeboarding go to Glasfryn Centre, where anyone who doesn’t mind Wake Parc, an innovative attraction suitable getting wet can have a go. for beginners and seasoned pros where everything is laid on for you. Go kayaking on beautiful near Beddgelert or Llyn Padarn at Llanberis. If you fancy an adrenaline buzz without getting Other watersports lakes include Llyn wet – and the rare experience of whizzing Geirionydd hidden away in the Gwydyr under the Britannia Bridge and Thomas Aquabatics Forest, Llynnau Mymbyr near Capel Curig, Telford’s – then With all of that water at our disposal Pwllheli, at the gateway to some of and Llyn Trawsfynydd. take a ride on a RIB powerboat along we have our fill of watersports. You the UK’s finest sailing waters, has the Menai Strait. can go sailing or paddleboarding, extended its reputation as a magnet kayaking or surfing. Sailing fans head for enthusiasts thanks to the opening for the open seas or sheltered Menai of Plas Heli, the Welsh National Sailing Strait from havens, harbours, marinas Academy and Events Centre. This and slipways all along the coast. The striking new building close to Hafan Plas Menai National Outdoor Centre Pwllheli’s superb 400-berth marina, on the shores of the Strait is one of has lined up a packed schedule of many places offering multi-activities, prestigious events for 2017 including sailing, windsurfing (see pages 34/35). and kayaking. See overleaf for more ideas

28 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast visitsnowdonia.info 29 Family fun , Llanfihangel-y-Pennant Our story Welsh Highland Railway, Rhyd Ddu King Arthur’s Labyrinth, Corris Castles and slate caverns Our historic legacy is expressed in stone and slate. Three iconic castles – Caernarfon, Conwy and Harlech, all World Heritage Sites – dominate the scene (cadw.wales.gov.uk). But the native fortresses of the Welsh Princes of Gwynedd have an equally compelling tale to tell (and you won’t find a more atmospheric location than that of Castell y Bere, locked away in the foothills of Cader Idris). To find out more go to princesofgwynedd.info and download audio tours National Slate Museum, Llanberis of key sites. For more heritage-based audio tours and inspirational itineraries go to snowdoniaheritage.info.

The story of slate crops up everywhere. Journey deep Little railways Activity unlimited underground at Llechwedd, Corris and Llanfair slate Your next step Your Little in gauge, large in appeal. We’re Go to Glasfryn Parc near Pwllheli if caverns. The timewarp scene at the National Museum the world capital of narrow-gauge you want to wear out the kids (in the of Slate, Llanberis, looks just as it was when the workers railways. The Snowdon Mountain nicest possible way). It’s billed as ‘North clocked off for the last time, while the Inigo Jones Railway does what it says on the tin, Wales’s premier action and activity Slateworks near Caernarfon are still going strong, 150 taking you to the top of the highest centre’. Enough said. GreenWood years on. Oh, and can we sneak in a mention here peak in Wales and England. Close Forest Park near Caernarfon is one for the near Beddgelert, another by there’s the idyllic Llanberis Lake very green attraction, winner of many remarkable underground experience that tells the story Railway. For Britain’s longest heritage awards for its eco credentials. But most of Victorian miners? railway ride hop on the 25-mile Welsh of all, it’s fun for families, especially the Highland Railway from Caernarfon to ride on the world’s first eco-friendly Slate and stone come together at the National Trust’s Porthmadog – then go even further people-powered rollercoaster. palatial , Bangor, built in the 19th century by riding its sister line, the classic as a monument to the immense wealth created by the , all the way to You’re in a cave, on a boat at King . , the Snowdonia National Blaenau Ffestiniog. Arthur’s Labyrinth, Corris, floating past Park’s Study Centre at , was the home of the tableaux and sound-and-light shows Oakley family, influential quarry and land owners. Their Also in Porthmadog is the charming that bring Celtic Britain and Arthurian beautiful gardens and grounds are open to the public. Welsh Highland Heritage Railway, while legend to life. What better way to get in down the coast there’s tiny Fairbourne the mood for Wales’s ‘Year of Legends’? (our smallest, with a gauge of just At Caernarfon, Yr Hwylfan/The Fun 12¼ins) and Talyllyn. It’s the world’s Centre is North-’s biggest Osprey first preserved railway and the best indoor adventure play centre. Watch the birdie way by far to enjoy the views across the water in Bala is on the Pack your binoculars Railway. They’re sure to be kept busy when you visit our estuaries and coastline, mountains and woodlands, habitats rich in birdlife. The RSPB Conwy Reserve, for example, is a ‘wildlife oasis on the edge of Snowdonia’ whose star species include lapwing, sedge warbler and shelduck. But our greatest feathery stars are to be found near Beddgelert at Bywyd Gwyllt Glaslyn Wildlife, where incredibly rare ospreys can be viewed by telescope and live remote coverage.

See overleaf for more ideas

30 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast visitsnowdonia.info 31 The art of shopping Open doors Cast off, tee off, gallop off into the distance

Tŷ Mawr Wybrnant, near Penmachno

In the food mood Craft works Little and large Your next step Your Bodnant Welsh Food in the Conwy Art and crafts workshops and studios The National Trust’s Tŷ Mawr Wybrnant Valley is the place to go for the tasty pop up everywhere. The Corris Crafts is a humble 16th-century farmstead with combo of shopping and eating. It Centre is a collection of nine studios a huge cultural significance. It was the Royal St. David’s Golf Club, Harlech showcases the very best Welsh artisan featuring a range of hand-made crafts. birthplace of Bishop William Morgan, who produce, from organic veg to cheeses, At Parc Glynllifon near Caernarfon first translated the Bible into Welsh, a giant Golf as it should be mountain lamb to delicious treats. the craft collective Iard (pronounced step in securing the future of the language. That’s the style of golf on offer here in Wales There’s a tearoom and restaurant too. ‘yard’) also brings together a number of It’s in a lovely, secluded spot deep in the hills – golf that’s played in the true spirit of businesses. above Penmachno. Seek it out – you won’t game on quality courses renowned for their Wherever you go, you’ll see that regret it. Other National Trust gems include welcome and friendliness. Our mix of golfing speciality shopping is… well, our is a long- the lovely Craflwyn Estate near Beddgelert, venues suits all abilities and includes three of speciality. Family-run businesses are established manufacturer of traditional the delightful mini-manor house of Plas yn the UK’s top 100 clubs. Tee off from the beach our lifeblood, and they don’t get much Welsh bedspreads, blankets, rugs and Rhiw near Aberdaron, and also at Aberdaron at Nefyn and Aberdyfi, or play against the better than Edwards of Conwy, the tweeds with a well-stocked shop. Other Porth y Swnt, an interpretive centre that acts backdrop of Harlech Castle at Royal St David’s. most famous butcher’s shop in Wales, shopping hot spots include Bangor as a gateway to the Llŷn Peninsula’s unique A trio of legendary golfing experiences in this, winner of many awards including (its high street is the longest in Wales), personality and rich cultural heritage. Wales’s ‘Year of Legends’. Britain’s Best Butcher 2014/15 and Betws-y-Coed, Caernarfon, Conwy, the Best Butcher’s Shop in Wales Llanberis, Porthmadog and Pwllheli. STORIEL, Bangor for 2016/17. Horses for courses Everyone from absolute beginners to experts are welcomed at our riding and trekking centres. The terrain is pretty varied too. Explore the wooded bridlepaths of the lovely or gallop along the beach on the southern shores of the Llŷn Peninsula.

Online Go sea angling from our shores and deep- sea boats. Or head inland for game fishing on rivers and lakes (Llyn Myngul near Bodnant Garden Other notable museums and visitor centres , for example, has superb brown include the Porthmadog Maritime Museum, trout fishing). There’s good coarse fishing too STORIEL at Bangor, and the awesome Electric at places like Llyn Trawsfynydd, which has Mountain at Llanberis, where you get to excellent facilities for anglers. visit – on an eye-popping underground tour – Europe’s largest pumped-storage hydro- electric power station.

32 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast visitsnowdonia.info 33 34

Snowdonia Mountains and Coast Make a date dates andtimesifyou’re planningtoattendanevent. Please note: This listwas compiledMarch 2017anddetailsmay have changed, sopleasecheck go tovisitsnowdonia.info. 2017. For moredetailsandanupdatedevents list taking placeinSnowdonia MountainsandCoastin Here’s arun-down ofsomethefestivals andevents beddgelert nationaltrust.org.uk/craflwyn-and- 30 May: nationaltrust.org.uk/features/llanbedrog 28 May: portmeirion-village.com Festival, Portmeirion 27–4 June: conwypirates.co.uk 27–29 May: cadw.gov.wales/events Screening ofZulu,Harlech the SouthWalesBorderersRegiment/ 27–28 May: Llanrwst, runwales.com 21 May: alwaysaimhighevents.com Triathlon, Llanberis 20–21 May: festrail.co.uk Beer Festival,Dinas,Caernarfon Cwrw aryCledrau/RailAle13thnnual 19–21 May: trefriwwalkingfestival.co.uk Trefriw WalkingFestival 19–21 May: Pwllheli, Championships –SilverTiller,PlasHeli, 13 May: gwylfwydcaernarfon.cymru 13 May: May BeddgelertFunDay plasheli.org ’50 Things’FunatLlanbedrog Snowdonia HalfMarathon, Merlin RocketsSailing Gŵyl FwydCaernarfon2017 North WalesGarden SnowdoniaSlateman Conwy PiratesWeekend Men ofHarlech–Meet Welsh HighlandRailway–

Caernarfon, hijinx.org.uk 28–2 July: nationaltrust.org.uk/porth-y-swnt Swnt, Aberdaron 25 June:’50Things’FunatPorthy thetournament.co.uk Wales’s 2017‘YearofLegends’ – oneoftheflagshipeventsduring 24–25 June: lovehopestrength.co.uk 24 June:SnowdonRocks,Llanberis cricciethfestival.co.uk 24 June:CricciethFestivalFoodSlam Llanberis, snowdonrace.co.uk 23 June:SnowdonTwilightRace, cricciethfestival.co.uk 17–25 June: trailmarathonwales.com Wales, CoedyBrenin,Dolgellau 16–17 June: alwaysaimhighevents.com Sportive, Caernarfon 11 June:EtapeEryri–TheSnowdonia Highland Railways, round tripontheFfestiniog&Welsh 10 June:TheSnowdonian–80-mile wats-on-events.com 4 June:BalaMiddleDistanceTriathlon rockardudwy.co.uk 3 June:RockArdudwy,Harlech June Hijinx UnityFestival, SalomonTrailMarathon The Tournament,Conwy Criccieth Festival

festrail.co.uk

alwaysaimhighevents.com 29–30 July: runwales.com 29 July:NorthWalesHalfMarathon,Conwy conwyclassicalmusic.co.uk 23–29 July: scyc.co.uk 23–28 July: Llanberis, alwaysaimhighevents.com 23 July:ScottSnowdoniaTrailMarathon, opencycling.com/wales-in-a-day Caernarfon toChepstow 22 July:WalesinaDay–CycleSportive, sesiwnfawr.cymru 15–17 July: Llanberis, snowdonrace.co.uk 15 July:InternationalSnowdonRace, Portmeirion, portmeirion-village.com 10–13 July: barrikiteflyers.com 8–9 July:BarmouthKiteFestival Glasfryn Parc,Pwllheli, 7–9 July:WelshakeboardingOpen, gwylarall.com 7–9 July:GŵylArallCaernarfon Caernarfon, caernarfonshow.com 1 July:NorthWalesAgriculturalShow, Aberdaron, 1 July:BlasyMôr/ATasteoftheSea, July 1, 8,15,22&29August: August Bala, snowdonia-outdoorfestival.co.uk 11–13 August: .cymru 4–12: nationaltrust.org.uk/porth-y-swnt Porth ySwnt,Aberdaron National EisteddfodofWales,A nglesey nationaltrust.org.uk/porth-y-swnt DinghyWeek,Abersoch Snowman Triathlon,CapelCurig Conwy ClassicalMusicFestival Sesiwn Fawr,Dolgellau Lotus 760thCelebrations, Snowdonia OutdoorFestival, glasfryn.co.uk

’50 Things’Funat

conwyriverfestival.org 19–26 August: & Llanbedrog, 19–21 August: racethetrain.com 19 August:RacetheTrain,Tywyn gwleddconwyfeast.com & CraftFair,portmeirion-village.com 1–3 December: December 28–29 October: snowdoniamarathon.co.uk 28 October: locations), walesrallygb.com 26–29 October: Railway, festrail.co.uk 6–8 October: October 13 September: festivalnumber6.com 8–10 September: Gwynedd, Commonwealth Visit,variouslocationsin 8 September: Triathlon, wats-on-events.com 3 September: Competition, PlasHeli,Pwllheli, 2 September: September Mawddwy, 24 September: festrail.co.uk 16–25 September: conwybeekeepers.org.uk 17 September: Festival, barmouthwalkingfestival.co.uk teamwales.cymru redbull.com Marathon Eryri,Llanberis Victorian Weekend,Ffestiniog Queen’sBatonRelay BalaStandardDistance glassbutterbeach.com Laser 4.7–adder1Sailing Conwy RiverFestival Glass ButterBeach,Abersoch ConwyHoneyFair WalesRallyGB(various Red BullHardline,Dinas Ras yCob,Porthmadog Portmeirion Food Gwledd ConwyFeast Festival No.6,Portmeirion BarmouthWalking visitsnowdonia.info plasheli.org

35 Our Tourist Information Centres and Points You’ll find the accommodation that’s just right for you in Snowdonia Mountains and Coast. We do the lot – luxury and are your first port of call for lots of helpful quirky, classic and contemporary, fashionable and funky, arty information on everything from attractions to and foodie. Here’s a sample: accommodation, events and activities.

Tourist Information Centres Tourist Information Points

Aberdyfi*, Abergynolwyn Wharf Gardens, LL35 0ED Y Ganolfan, LL36 9YF 01654 767321 [email protected] Abersoch The Vestry, High Street, LL53 7DS We do like to be The classic country

For the record For Beddgelert Hebog Centre* [email protected] beside the seaside house experience LL55 4YD 01766 890615 Bangor [email protected] STORIEL, Ffordd Gwynedd, LL57 1DT

Betws-y-Coed Blaenau Ffestiniog Royal Oak Stables, LL24 0AH Antur ’Stiniog, Y Siop, High Street, LL41 3ES

01690 710426 want you Whatever [email protected] Corris Corris Craft Centre, SY20 9RF Conwy Muriau Buildings, LL32 8LD Criccieth A room at the inn for character, 01492 577566 Post Office,LL 52 0BU Great-value self-catering cosiness and comfort [email protected] Llanberis Hwb Eryri, Electric Mountain, LL55 4UR Street, LL30 2RP 07867 976183 01492 577577 [email protected] [email protected] Tywyn Visitor Experience Hub Library, Neptune Road, LL36 9HA Porthmadog 07557553762 Caernarfon 07584455430 Y Bala Penllyn Leisure Centre, * Open Easter–October Pensarn Road, LL23 7SR Go glamping – it’s camping Who said caravans with all the bells and whistles aren’t comfy?

Medical information Stay safe

Ysbyty Gwynedd Hospital Conditions change fast in our wild and 01248 384384. 999 should only rugged landscapes. For help and advice be called in an emergency. visit mountainsafe.co.uk.

NHS Direct Wales: 0845 4647 Stay safe with essential advice from rnli.org/safety. Out-of-hours GP service: Book into a hotel with We’re open for business 0300 123 5566 Follow the Countryside Code. naturalresources.wales. a soothing spa throughout the year 36 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast visitsnowdonia.info 37 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast is easy AND WHEN YOU ARRIVE … Local services to reach, however you choose to get here. The Snowdon Sherpa is the super-convenient bus service for Snowdonia Mountains and Coast and its attractions. Whether you are walking or sightseeing, take the green option, leave your car behind, sit back, relax and enjoy the scenery. For more details plus information on Gwynedd’s local bus services go to gwynedd.llyw.cymru/publictransport. GETTING TO US Just the ticket By train By sea The Explore Wales Pass is just what it says North Wales tickets allow travel for Direct services (including Virgin Trains Irish Ferries and Stena Line operate – one ticket that gives you unlimited access one day on buses and trains. For details of from to Bangor) take you regular and high-speed services to to all of Wales’s mainline train services and zones and prices: to the popular North Wales coastal from Dublin. For southern almost every bus service. destinations from most parts of Snowdonia Mountains and Coast, ferry arrivatrainswales.co.uk/ExploreWales/ Britain. Make inland connections services into and Pembroke arrivatrainswales.co.uk/ NorthWalesRover via the Dock are a handy alternative. ExploreWalesPass 03333 211 202 (conwyvalleyrailway.co.uk) 03333 211 202 which runs through the Snowdonia Irish Ferries: National Park to Betws-y-Coed and irishferries.com, Blaenau Ffestiniog. Services from the 08717 300 400 Midlands through and Stena Line: link up with the stenaline.co.uk, I

Travel information Travel Cambrian Coast Railway 08447 70 70 70 (thecambrianline.co.uk). Conwy Morfa For National Rail information and By bike enquiries: nationalrail.co.uk Reach bike-friendly Snowdonia Tal-y-cafn 08457 484 950 Mountains and Coast by following the . Quiet, traffic- calmed and traffic-free routes give By coach good access from the surrounding area and further afield. For National Express information: nationalexpress.com nationalcyclenetwork.org.uk 0871 781 8181

Llanfihangel By air Glyn Myfyr

By car Transfers from the international Llangwm gateways of , and There’s quick, straightforward access Cricieth Birmingham take less than two hours. Porthmadog from the North West along the M56 Morfa Bychan

and A55. Motorway links with the Manchester Airport: Llaniestyn Midlands are good too, and the same manchesterairport.co.uk Porth Iago Porth Oer/ roads – the M6, M5 and M1 – also bring 08712 710 711 Whistling Sands Snowdonia Mountains and Coast within Liverpool John Lennon Airport: Park easy reach of the South of England. liverpoolairport.com 08715 218 484 Birmingham Airport: birminghamairport.co.uk

0871 222 0072 Llyn Myngul Talyllyn Gwobr Traeth Beach Award

38 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast visitsnowdonia.info 39 Introducing Wales’s Holiday Areas Snowdonia Mountains and Coast is one of the Holiday Areas within Wales. Each area has its own distinct character.

The Isle of – t: +44 (0) 1248 713177 Bay e: [email protected] t: +44 (0)1267 231557 visitanglesey.co.uk e: [email protected] facebook.com/visitanglesey discovercarmarthenshire.com Take your pick your Take Llandudno and Colwyn Bay Bay – Swansea, t: +44 (0)1492 577577 and e: [email protected] visitswanseabay.com visitllandudno.org.uk twitter: @visitswanseabay facebook.com/VisitingLlandudno twitter: @visit_llandudno The Valleys – Heart and Soul of Wales North-East Wales t: +44 (0)29 2088 0011 t: +44 (0) 1978 292015 e: [email protected] e: tourism@.gov.uk thevalleys.co.uk t: +44 (0) 1745 355068 e: rhyltic@.gov.uk northeastwales.co.uk , Capital of Wales t: +44 (0)29 2087 3573 e: [email protected] My Way visitcardiff.com t: +44 (0)1874 622485 e: [email protected] midwalesmyway.com The Glamorgan Heritage Coast facebook.com/MidWalesMyWay and Countryside twitter: @MidWalesMyWay t: +44 (0)1446 704867 t: +44 (0)1656 815332 e: [email protected] – Cardigan Bay and e: tourism@.gov.uk the visitthevale.com t: +44 (0)1970 612125 bridgendbites.com e: [email protected] discoverceredigion.wales facebook.com/discoverceredigion Wye Valley and Vale of Usk twitter: @visitceredigion t: +44 (0)1291 623772 e: tourism@.gov.uk visitmonmouthshire.com Pembrokeshire – Britain’s Only Coastal National Park Find out more by visiting visitpembrokeshire.com visitwales.com/brochures to download as many as you like.

40 Snowdonia Mountains and Coast

Top View