Beaufort Herald

Beaufort Companye Newsletter September 08 Volume 2, Issue 8

Inside this issue: THE BIG Continental Issue

Johnny at Richmond 2 Beauforts at Agincourt .

Phillipe le Grand Batard 2

The battle of Montl’hery 3

Henry beaufort and the Calais 4

Recommended Reading 4

15th century fashion in Europe 5

Italian Fashion—Nothing has 5 changed Hello to all and to the expanded news- Stef & Katie 6 letter. Too many pictures and articles to

Cookery corner—from the 6 cover , but that’s a good thing. Page 5 is full of basic information on ArmourImports 1480/81 6 fashion and fabric for the 15th century, and going forward one of the things I would like is to publish help for people In the next issue, articles on: for the lady about town: 1: Research into costume and fabric ♦ Running a medieval house 2: Good quality costume/kit makers ♦ Shoes (what else) 3: “How too” guides starting with simple stuff like shirts, shifts etc.. ♦ Accessories JAYNE E .. ♦ Plus more foreign stuff .. “A pox on the French!”

♦ Articles -Please send to: Its almost the end of the sea- you lot would mail with Tewkesbury—all those peo- son, where has it gone? And your favourite/stand out ple in Blue/white, and the

in the middle of planning for event or moment of the sea- look on the other side when 2009. son (more than one is very they saw it - priceless A In retrospect 2008 has been a acceptable) fantastic success and it going to be difficult to improve on To give an examples— but intend to try. Towton—standing on the I’m not going to pick my fa- [email protected] field where Somersets men vourites but for the next issue formed up in 1461— it would be really good if extraordinary

1 Personalities of the Wars of the Roses TÇàÉ|Çx? utáàtÜw Éy UâÜzâÇwç ?DGGD?DGGD@@@@DHCGDHCG Beaufort Companye Newsletter

Antoine, known to his contemporaries as "the bastard of Burgundy" or "the Grand Bastard - le grand bâtard" - was the natural son (and first child) of Phillip III and one of his mistresses, Jeanne de Presle. Born in 1421, he was brought up in the Burgundian court with his younger half-brother, , last of the Valois Dukes of Bur- gundy, to whom he grew very close. In 1459 he married Marie de la Viesville by whom he had five children.

He fought for his father on several campaigns, from at least 1451 onwards, and in 1464 left for a Crusade against the Turks when he helped raise the siege of Cueta. In 1456 he was awarded the prestigious Order of the Golden Fleece, held by only 29 others at that time.

He took part in the Battle of Montlhéry (1465), when he is said to have saved the life of the Count of Charolais after he was separated from his men and wounded in the neck. In 1466 he was present with Charles at the siege of Di- nant, and in the same year he was invited by King Edward IV, for a lengthy Another miserable pleader in front stay in England, during which he was to joust against Anthony Woodville, Earl of Dickon - Rivers, the queen's brother.

After the death of his father, Antoine participated in nearly every campaign led by the new duke, starting with the Liège campaign of 1467, when he com- manded the largest contingent of 1,353 men. Oculi omnium in te spectant Domine the eyes of all are looking upon you Lord In contrast to his rather ascetic younger half-brother Charles, it seems that An- toine inherited his father's sexual proclivities: at the chapter of the Golden Et tu das illis escam in tempre. Amen Fleece held in 1468, he was castigated for his fornication and adultery, in And you give them meat at the right time. spite of his "valour, prowess and prudence and several other good habits and To be said before food at events virtues". But Charles trusted Antoine implicitly, and Antoine served his half- brother militarily and diplomatically with consider- able success right up to the time of Charles' dramatic death at the in 1477. This loyalty Painted by Rogier van der Weyden: Antoine, was never called into question even when in 1473 bastard of Burgundy, wearing the Order of the he was accused by Charles of accepting a monetary Golden Fleece on its chain of stylised flints and gift of 20,000 gold écus from Charles' sworn enemy, Louis XI of France. steels, emblem of his father, Philip the Good, probably 1463 He also enjoyed sporting success; the arrow he holds in the Van der Weyden is presumed to relate to his year as "archer king" in 1463, after winning the annual contest of the archer's guild of St Sebastian in Bruges. Charles the Bold won the Brussels contest every year between 1466 and 1471.

At the disastrous siege of Beauvais in 1472, Antoine reportedly lost his best jewels. In 1475 he was again sent as a diplomat to the King of England, the Duke of Brittany, the Kings of Sicily, Portugal, Aragon and Naples, and to Venice and the Pope, who received him with great honour. In the middle of these travels, he managed to find time to call in at the siege of Neuss, and later that year he participated in the conquest of the Duchy of .

In 1476-1477 he fought alongside Charles the Bold at the three great battles of Grandson, Murten and Nancy, and was taken hostage at the end of the latter by René II, Duke of Lorraine, and delivered to the King of France, who was anxious that Burgundy should never again rebel. But Antoine had no inter- est in making trouble, and he offered Louis his services to help stabilize the precarious political situation. He was instrumental in arranging the marriage of , only child of Charles the Bold, to Archduke Maximilian of Austria, later Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor.

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From “behanner” and Dave Key on The Battle of MONTl’hery, August 16th the Living History Forum 1465. War Materials purchased by William Ross for the French expe- Between the French under Louis XI, and the Burgundians under Charles the Bold, dition of 1475.

Comte de Charolais (The League of Public Weal). The French forces consisted of all 660 black bills the ordinance companies of the kingdom, plus the feudal levy, plus Savoyard nobles and 154 white bills their retinues. Charles had 1200 Ordnance lances plus infantry, (many of them archers, 106 bills 80 battle axes including a number of English troops). His vanguard under Comte de St.Pol was en- 25 battle axes, gilt camped near the village of Montl’ery. 400 morispikes 1,660 Stakes for the field The French army suddenly 400 lances appeared and rushed the van- 300 lances guard camp. St.Pol decided Remnants stored at Calais that any withdrawal would 128 black bills turn into a rout so requested 420 stakes for the field 170 headed spears re-enforcements and held his 142 white bills position. Charles despatched a 73 battle axes large contingent and, after 17 gilt battle axes 300 spears without heads some hesitation, brought the rest of his forces to the field. War materials stored at Calais Initially he dismounted his 1481 9 godon dawghes with pikes of men at arms to fight in the iron “English way” but then 60 gilt battle axes changed his mind and made 172 battle axes 24(number maybe not right) white them remount This time delay bills called sages allowed the French to bring 119 new black bills more and more men themselves to the fray. 941 spear heads 162 black bills The Burgundians under Charles now advanced in the direction of the fighting which 4 black bills without halfts 843 spears of Rhenish clystes? could be heard going on in and around the village between skirmishers of the rival ar- 404 spears of fir mies. The Burgundian archers getting the better of the exchange. The French had posi- Variety of other spears, darts and tioned themselves behind the long hedge and ditch near the castle. As Charles ap- marospikes proached with his battle array the undisciplined men at arms of both armies immedi- ately charged, the French around both sides of the hedge and the Burgundians through Costs: their own infantry! and both left flanks broke on the first charge.

St.Pol,was pursued off the field by the Savoyards, whilst in turn Charles pursued the Black Bills 11d French, left back to the forest; Commynes observed “never was there a greater flight on White Bills 3s 4d Bills 4s 4d both sides”. The remaining French rallied near the castle, while Charles and St. Pol, Hedging bills 7d who eventually rejoined him, managed to pull together 800 men at arms and several hundred infantry, thus forcing the French to withdraw.

By remaining in possession of the field, Charles could therefore claim the victory. In total, there were between 2500 and 4000 casualties, with the French losing more men at arms, and the Burgundians more foot. Charles himself was wounded during this battle.

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Following the Yorkist defeat at Ludlow , the Duke of Somerset was made Cap- tain of Calais and in November 1459 he crossed the channel with Lord Audley, Lord Stafford of Hooke, Anthony Trollope and 1000 men. Unfortu- nately for Somerset , Warwick and Edward, Earl of March were already firmly ensconced in the town and faced with a barrage of arrows and cannon fire the Lancastrians were forced to withdraw and sail further up the coast to Guisnes Castle .

Although short of supplies and equipment, Somerset launched a series of vigor- ous raids against the Yorkists that impressed his contemporaries by their bold- ness and enterprise and which had the effect of winning over Hammes Castle and encouraged desertions from Rysbank Fort. However by the spring of 1460 Somerset ’s financial situation was becoming desperate so, taking ad- vantage of Warwick ’s absence, Somerset launched a full scale concerted at- tack on Calais on 23 April 1460. After a hard fought and bitter struggle on Newenham Bridge , during which many of his men were killed, Somerset was finally forced to withdraw after which he found himself virtually besieged within Guisnes.

In July 1460, following the Lancastrian defeat at Northampton , Somerset de- cided his position was hopeless and he agreed terms with the besieging York- ists, surrendered Guisnes and withdrew into France . The King of France, Charles VII, who had been impressed by Somerset’s resistance, lodged him at Montivilliers and met the full expense of his retinue and also granted him safe conduct to the Duchy of Burgundy where, having also won the admiration of Charles, Count of Charolais, heir to the Dukedom of Burgundy, he was enter- tained at a lavish dinner at Ardres. If I hide behind here, I might be able to eat in peace Somerset returned to England in October 1460 having sailed from Dieppe in ships provided by Charles VII.

Recommended Reading THE GREAT WARBOW

Matthew Strickland & Sir Robert Hardy

ISBN : 0-7609-3167-1 Andreas leads the troops (plus allies) out at Kenilworth A must for all, full of facts, and details

4 Beaufort Companye Newsletter Fashion in 15th century Europe Designer Dress in Late was characterized by a series of extremes and extravagances, from the voluminous gowns Medieval Italy called houppelandes with their sweeping floor- length sleeves to the revealing doublets and The trend towards greater extravagance in dress, increases throughout this whole hose of Renaissance Italy. Hats, hoods, and other period. Several factors were at work headdresses assumed increasing importance, pushing high fashion towards greater and and were swagged, draped, jewelled, and greater consumption: increased exports feathered. As Europe continued to grow more from the East, increased production and prosperous, the urban middle classes, skilled improved quality of textiles in the West, workers, began to wear more complex clothes the wealth of a rising urban tradesman class, and the sudden increased inherited that followed, at a distance, the fashions set by personal wealth of the survivors of the the elites. Black Death.

Dominance of the Burgundian court With England and France mired in the In Italy these factors operated at a peak Hundred Years War and its aftermath and then the English Wars of the Roses through because fine fabric production and impor- most of the century, European fashion was dominated by the glittering court of the Duchy tation was the cornerstone of the Northern of Burgundy, especially under the fashion-conscious Philip the Good. Having added Hol- Italian economy. Huge fortunes were land and Flanders to their dominion, the Dukes of Burgundy had access to the latest fab- made in the Florentine and Venetian city rics of Italy, the East and to English wool exports through the great trading cities of republics by merchants and manufactur- Bruges and Antwerp Purchases of fabrics through Italian merchants like the two cousins ers. These wealthy merchants sought out Giovanni Arnolfini amounted to a noticeable proportion of all government expenditure a way to buy the status that they Especially in Florence, where sumptuary laws prevented the citizens from wearing the craved. With fabric as their stock in trade most luxurious cloths on which the city's fortunes were built, the materials of men's clothing they dressed more lavishly than the in particular often appear plain in paintings, but contemporaries who understood the landed nobility, and spent fantastic sums difference in grades of cloth very well would have appreciated the beauty and great expense of a very fine grade on private and public art and architecture to gain social recognition. Fabrics and furs The competition in dress took a new twist Wool was the most popular fabric for all classes by far, followed by linen and hemp in this period. Once one has enough Wool fabric was available in a wide range of qualities, from rough undyed cloth to fine, dense broadcloth with a velvety nap; high-value broadcloth was a backbone of the Eng- gowns and surcoats in the finest fabrics, lish economy. Wool fabrics were dyed in rich colours, and all your peers have the same, how do notably reds, greens, gold's, and blues, Silk-weaving you compete? Conspicuous consump- was well-established around the Mediterranean by the beginning of the century, and figured silks, often silk tion will only take you so far, as you can velvets with silver-gilt wefts, are increasingly seen in only wear one set of clothes at a time. Italian dress and in the dress of the wealthy throughout This is when Western dress took it's long Europe. Stately floral designs featuring a pomegranate or artichoke motif had reached Europe from China in trip into fashion and fads. The Italians the 14th century and became a dominant design in the began to take fabric and cut it and piece it Ottoman silk-producing cities of Istanbul and Bursa, and in a complex fashion to fit close to the spread to silk weavers in Florence, Genoa, Venice, Va- lencia and Seville body, and have a recognizable "cut" that could be adopted and discarded as a Fur was worn, mostly as a lining layer, by those who "fashion". Italians acquired the means to could afford it. The grey and white squirrel furs of the make clothing with a planned obsoles- Middle Ages, vair and miniver, went out of style except at court, first for men and then for women; the new cence . This meant that (as now) clothing fashionable furs were dark brown sable and marten. could go out of fashion faster than it Toward the end of the century, wild animal furs such as would wear out. - Nothing has changed lynx became popular. Ermine remained the preroga- tive and hallmark of royalty. in 500 years! JAYNE E

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Beaufort Companye Cookery Corner, Part 2 KNOW YOUR BEAUFORTS Medieval Chicken with Fennel – Difficulty Medium NAME— Stef & Katie

THE FACTS: Johannes Bockenheim was chef to Pope Martin V and in 1430 wrote a A brace of Faire Beaufort brief but highly original cookbook. Here is one of his recipes maidens 1 free-range chicken, 2/3 cup (100 g) unblanched almonds, a handful Always smiling and helpful of fennel or dill leaves, a handful of parsley, 2 cups (1/2 liter) water scant 1/2 teaspoon fine spices (see below), 2 tablespoons lard or oil salt

Cut the chicken into serving pieces and pat dry. Melt the lard in a casserole over medium-high heat and brown the chicken. When it is golden brown, add the water and salt to taste. Lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 40 to 45 minutes or until tender. Meanwhile, wash and thoroughly dry the herbs. Grind the almonds finely in a blender or food processor, then add the herbs and blend to a paste. Remove the chicken from the casserole and keep it warm in a very low oven, covered loosely with foil. Add the almond mixture to the casserole and reduce over medium heat until the sauce has thickened. Arrange the chicken on a serving platter and strain the sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with the spices to taste and serve.

“Was it one or two fingers?, Caption Competition: — “ These Gothic damn never can remember” knee spikes are a bit shiney”

Now its your turn. Replies to: [email protected]

Arms & Armour Imports to London 1480-1481

From John Waller, Oxford Household

The Petty Custom Accounts 1480-1481 with respect to imports of military equipment. It may give a picture of what types of kit were in use around this time and what we may under/over represent in WOTR period impressions

Mail Armour Helmets Body Armour Shoulder Plates 4 Missile Weapons Gorgets 446 Cuirasses 2 Bowstaves 12500+ Splints 221 Gardbrace 1 Guns 2 Gorgets 145 Sallet 202 Brigandines 150 Gauntlets 1 pair Gun Stones 2500 Sleeves 110 pairs Archer's Sallet 180 Leg Harness 57 Gunpowder 100lb Gussets 80 Steel Bonnets 95 Vambraces 35 pair Hand Weapons Crossbows 29 Faulds 63 Helmets 3 Complete Harness 33 Daggers 1329 Crossbow windlass 1 Habergeons 58 Steel Skull 1 Breastplates 25 Swords 545 Crossbow Shafts 60 Aprons 58 Corslet 22 Hangers (inc blades) Falls 12 Total 481 Half Vambraces 18 pair 30 Horse Armour Flaps 7 'Dutch' Gorgets 5 Spear Heads 6 Flanchards 252 Breeches 2 Leather coverings Bevor 5 Bills 4 Chamfron / Head Ar- Hood 1 for sallets 4 Arm Plates 4 Bill Hafts 300 mour 9 Brace 1 Sword Scabbards 200 Neck 1

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