Section 1 Read on: The September issue monocle.com of Monocle is out on sale now monocle.com/radio and features a report on Gentili Edition 4 Mosconi, the Italian textiles 30/08—05/09 firm that works with the industry’s biggest brands.

Portuguese textile industry: A-Z of Made MANUFACTURING / PORTUGAL 2. Comment José Alexandre Oliveira facts and figures in Portugal Chairman, Riopele 12,000 Acne Studios manufacturing companies Burberry Family affair (fourth-largest manufacturer Calvin Klein MADE IN PORTUGAL Location: Pousada de Saramagos in Europe after Italy, Poland Drykorn One of the distinguishing features of the Portuguese tex- and Czech Republic) Esprit Portugal’s textile industry has earned global prestige for its quality, innovation, creativity tile industry is that many companies, even the bigger ones, Folk are family owned. Riopele has a staff of 1,069 people, 137,000 Giorgio Armani Dressing as and responsiveness – and its manufacturers are dominating the market from the high end to annual turnover of €74m, and a production capacity of people employed in h&m manufacturing (fourth-largest Inditex a minimalist the high street. We meet the executives behind the companies that are leading the charge. more than 700,000 metres of fabric a month. Its custom- in Europe after Italy, Romania Jigsaw ers range from fast fashion giant Inditex (owner of Zara) and Poland) Kenzo by Fumio Sasaki writer Trish Lorenz photographer Pedro Guimaraes to luxury heavyweights Burberry, Versace and Giorgio Labfresh Armani. It is one of the largest and most established €7.6bn Mango manufacturers in Portugal, yet it is still fully owned by annual turnover (sixth-largest Next Four years ago I began my life as a the family that founded it. in Europe after Italy Germany, Officine Générale minimalist. My daily uniform was Take a look at the label on the shirt, trousers or jacket “The Portuguese relationship to textiles began very France, UK and Spain) Primark a white shirt, black denim jeans you’re wearing. There’s a good chance that at least one early – we first established our know-how in textile pro- Rag & Bone and white trainers; I dressed the item bears the tag “Made in Portugal”. In recent years, duction in the late 18th century,” says Riopele chairman 10 Stella McCartney same way every day. I had three the country has emerged as one of Europe’s most innova- José Alexandre Oliveira. “Particularly here in the north of percentage of the country’s Ted Baker identical Digawel shirts. When the exports account for textiles Versace tive textile and clothing production hubs, with high-end Portugal, the culture of textiles is very strong. Riopele is and apparel Wax of weather turned cold, I would put and high-street brands choosing to make products here. 91 years old; it was founded by my grandfather in 1927. Zara on a sweatshirt with a down jacket. I Portugal has a long history of textile manufacturing I’ve worked here for 39 years but I’ve been part of the owned around 20 items – including but was primarily known as a low-cost producer. But over business since I was born. It’s in my blood.” underwear – so there was no need to the past decade manufacturers have invested in R&D, and The company has been an internationally focused choose my outfit every day. I simply today the Made in Portugal stamp speaks of quality. business since 1958 and today exports make up more replaced each piece when it became The country’s growing influence is also partly attrib- than 96 per cent of its production. “Five years ago our worn out. I liked fashion but I also utable to a changing fashion industry. Fast fashion plays key markets were Europe and the US. While these are still liked not having to spend time shop- to Portugal’s strengths. Its network of smaller producers important, we are now seeing China, Japan and South ping or think about my clothes when (most of whom are located north of Porto, near the city of Korea as growth markets,” says Oliveira. “China in par- the seasons changed. Braga) are able to rapidly turn around orders and manufac- ticular is a very big market for us. In the past China was Since I moved to the country- ture smaller volumes. Proximity to key European and US seen as a competitor but today we sell our products there side on the outskirts of Kyoto, a markets means fast delivery times and crucial savings on – they appreciate our innovation in fabrics.” The compa- 4. few things have changed. I now pick shipping costs. They have also benefited from higher labour ny’s most recent innovations include the Çeramica Clean Sergio Neto my clothes based on function. My costs in China, where is was once cheaper to produce. fabric: along with being breathable, it repels stains by CEO, Petratex underwear and socks are made of We speak with five of its leading players: the power- preventing the absorption of liquids such as wine, olive merino wool, a material that doesn’t brokers who are helping consolidate Made in Portugal’s oil and coffee. Appliance of science smell and is versatile enough to wear status on the fashion map. Riopele is a vertically integrated company with the Location: Paços de Ferreira whether it’s hot or cold. entire manufacturing process managed in-house, from When Michael Phelps took to the water in his all-in-one My daily outfits are heavy on R&D to spinning, dyeing, weaving and finishing. “We do seamless Speedo LZ Racer in in 2008, taking outdoor brands such as Arc’teryx, 1. it this way to ensure a high level of production flexibility home eight Olympic gold medals in the process, Sergio Patagonia and Finetrack, which dry Ricardo Mano and quality control,” says Oliveira. “[It also enables] a Neto was smiling. Petratex, the textile company that Neto Chief executive, ATB short lead time, which is important because the speed heads, had helped contribute to Phelps’ Olympic success. of the market is increasing all the time. Ten years ago, The company’s patented NoSew technology, devel- Spinning a yarn we produced new collections every six to eight months. oped in partnership with the Australian Institute of Sport Location: Mariz Now we have to respond much more quickly to trends. If and Nasa, was designed to reduce friction in the water As the fashion industry looks to respond to criticism on a celebrity or royal wears a dress in an unusual colour, I and so cut race times by vital fractions of a second. When its environmental record (it is the world’s second-most know that some of the big brands we work with will want used in Phelp’s Speedo LZ Racer it created what was “Being a minimalist allows polluting industry), some brands are turning to knitwear me to have a similar fabric almost immediately.” Because then the fastest swimsuit in the world. “We made 100 per manufacturer atb for eco-friendly solutions. “What’s they control the whole chain and aren’t dependent on cent bonded products a reality,” says Neto. “We were the you to focus on yourself. catching the attention of our clients is our work in recov- anyone external, they can turn things around rapidly. first company to develop this no-sew technology and to Maybe it’s because once ered and recycled fabrics. We now knit with 100 per cent They are looking to take a more proactive role in create the machines behind the technique.” you have sorted your recycled yarns,” says atb chief executive Ricardo Mano. their dealings with brands. “In the last few years we Founded in 1989, Petratex is one of Portugal’s most belongings, you can deal Founded in 1985, the company specialises in knit- have started to take a leading creative role – we identify influential textile manufacturers, with an annual turnover ting, dyeing and finishing and also has digital printing trends and create fabric collections that set the trends,” of €66m. Its 900 machines supply 159 brands worldwide with your inner self” capacity. It produces 20 million metres of fabric a year says Oliveira. “We are already working on our fabrics for in France, Italy, Germany, the US, England and Japan and makes clothes for clients including high street names winter 2019 and our customers are waiting to see what (although it is reluctant to reveal specific brand names). 5. Benetton, h&m and Primark, and high-end brands Stella we are bringing out. This is the future: we need to add The company continues to invest in textile technology at Paulo Melo McCartney, Kenzo and Acne Studios. “We knit all kinds value by becoming more creative.” its north Portugal HQ. President, ATP of fabrics – we have more than 12,000 different samples Its expertise crosses sectors including high fashion, in our textile library – so we really don’t have any limits sportswear, lingerie and baby clothes. With luxury mai- Building bridges in this area,” says Mano. “But all our clients, from fast to 3. sons it practices advanced techniques such as digital Location: Vila Nova De Famalicão quickly and can be tossed into a high fashion, are sensitive and curious about recovered Tiago Guimarães printing, laser cutting and laser engraving. With its sports Associação Têxtil e Vestuário de Portugal (atp) is the washing machine on a trip. I am a and recycled fabrics. Using recycled fabrics leads to less Managing partner, Shirtgate clients, the focus is on delivering high-performance char- “Portugal has the entire industry body that represents Portugal’s textile and fan of clothing that’s lightweight and waste and big savings on water and energy.” acteristics such as water tightness and breathability. production chain, from apparel sectors. It lobbies on behalf of the industry and compact; it allows me to travel with- The company’s recycled fabrics are made from dona- Hot under the collar “We’re a hybrid company that works across fashion, also works to promote Made in Portugal abroad. Paulo out carrying much. tions – including used clothing – and industrial waste. Location: Porto sports and hi-tech segments. We’re experiencing particu- spinning and weaving to Melo, who also heads up Somelos, one of Portugal’s larg- Being a minimalist allows you “We are in a joint venture with a Portuguese company Shirtgate is a men’s shirt specialist, manufacturing shirts larly strong growth in technical products, haute couture dyeing and finishing. It’s est manufacturers, was elected atp president in 2016. to focus on yourself. Maybe it’s that recovers fabrics,” says Mano. “We reuse our own and consulting on trends in the sector. Tiago Guimarães and customised items,” says Neto. He credits a focus on easy for companies to work because once you have sorted your textile waste. We completely deconstruct the fabrics and co-founded the company in 2012, when he was manag- service and innovation as key to the Portuguese textile Q: What factors have contributed to the growth of belongings, you can deal with your transform them back to yarn fibres. The recovered fibre is Clockwise from ing director of Somelos, another large Portuguese man- industry’s growing success. “Customers look to Portugal together and for clients to Portugal’s textile industry? inner self. It’s allowed me the time to not as strong as the original but if we need to increase the top: Ricardo Mano ufacturer. In 2015, he left Somelos to focus on Shirtgate today because of the quality, service and drive for devel- visit multiple suppliers” A: Portugal has the entire production chain, from spin- start practising yoga, lifting weights final quality, we can blend it with recycled pet or organic at ATB’s factory; and today the company produces around 180,000 shirts opment. We have the know-how here to manufacture ning and weaving to dyeing and finishing. We cover a and training for marathons. I have Petratex; samples cotton. I genuinely believe this circular economy is the at Petratex, which a year for clients from Europe, the US and Asia. fashion items and technical products. Portugal is increas- broad spectrum of the industry too: we make shirts, out- Altra running shoes that I also wear future for the fashion and textile industry.” prides itself on ingly valued for the types of fabrics it manufactures – not, erwear, knitwear, socks, underwear. Around 85 per cent with my normal clothes – even on scientific innovation; Q: What kinds of clients do you work with? as in the past, simply because it is the cheapest.” of Portuguese textile companies are in a small region just dates. They’re flat, with a comfort- examining the A:. We work with brands that are smaller and more inno- half an hour north of Porto. That makes it easy for com- able, Birkenstock-like roomy toe fabric at Petratex; vative, like Rag & Bone in the US, Folk in the UK and panies to work together and for clients to visit multiple design and I feel like I’m not wearing Petratex’s sewing Sand , but also with more traditional shirt suppliers. And we have geographic and cultural proximity anything on my feet. team; ATB knits brands out of Italy who are looking for new ideas. They to our main customers: Europe and the US. I’m now drawn to things that with 100 per cent come to us for help with modernising their shirt line Q: How has the industry changed in the past help correct my posture and body recycled yarns; green because they recognise that shirts need to be made cool. decade? movement, such as thin-soled Nike ethos means happier workers at ATB; Q: How innovative can a shirt be? How do you A: We are increasing the volume as well as the value of Huaraches and five-toe socks, and ATB produces 20 modernise it? business. There has been a move away from competing I’ve recently been rethinking the million metres of The traditional formalwear shirt is not a growth market on price to competing on adding value through design, merits of old-fashioned Japanese fabric a year; T-shirt but we are seeing a lot of opportunity in fashion-led items service and technological innovation. We are moving clothing. I’ve tried out fundoshi, a samples at ATB such as short-sleeved shirts, Hawaiian patterned shirts, away from being order takers to selling solutions. wrapping cloth that’s worn as under- shirts with zips and so on. We sell ideas to clients in the Q: How has the trend for fast fashion impacted wear and has no waistband. And I form of fabrics and designs for shirts. the Portuguese textile industry? like brands that produce modern Q: So you are designers as well as manufacturers? It suits us. Fast fashion necessitates short lead times, versions of samue [the robe-like A: We’re not designers; it’s more about product devel- responsiveness to trends and being customer oriented. garments] that are worn by Zen opment – we show brands new fabrics, new shirt styles, Historically our textile industry has been composed of Buddhist monks. new ideas. We have a huge fabric collection and a wide family-owned businesses and our strongest competencies As I own less, I wash and put variety of shirt styles for clients to choose from. It’s about have always been in the service we offer and in being away my clothes every day. Not transforming what’s sometimes seen as a boring ward- adaptable. Portuguese manufacturers are not huge, so having to wrestle things in and out of robe item into something fashionable. we have flexibility in meeting customer requirements overstuffed drawers gives me peace Q: What do you think is attracting brands to man- and fast turnaround times. We can also add value through of mind. I think minimalism has ufacture in Portugal? elements such as design ­­– for example, there’s a trend to made me appreciate fashion in a dif- A: Our manufacturing prices are competitive and we are create more technical textiles. ferent way. Of course, I get excited very flexible: we can handle smaller orders. Quality is Q: Why do you think Made in Portugal has seen its when buying new clothes and wear- important too, and politically we are very stable. Being international standing grow? ing them for the first time. Like most part of the EU, unlike Turkey for example, protects our A: The entire sector is focused on export and in the past people, I agree that fashion is fun. I clients against currency fluctuations. five years we’ve been committed to promoting Made in just wish people would also find joy Portugal and highlighting the quality of what we produce. in owning fewer clothes. Competitors are changing too. Italy no longer has the whole chain of industry and is focused more on design About the writer: Fumio Sasaki is the and fashion. There are more young people within the tex- author of ‘Goodbye, Things: The New “Politically we are very stable. Being part of tile industry here, which I think bodes well for our future. Japanese Minimalism’. the EU, unlike Turkey for example, protects our clients against currency fluctuations”

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