DOWN GETTING TEXAS WAY CLOSER A CHAT WITH TAISSA FARMIGA THE ALLIANCE AND THE ACCORD ARE ABOUT SOUTH BY SOUTHWEST, NATIONAL PRIDE WORKING TOGETHER MORE AS THEY BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SAID THERE ARE “WINDS AND SOME OF THE STANDOUT SEEK TO IMPROVE CONDITIONS IN THE OF CHANGE” IN ITALY AS HIS FIRM REPORTED MOVIES AT THE FESTIVAL. PAGE 12 BANGLADESH APPAREL SECTOR. PAGE 4 A 7.5 PERCENT GROWTH IN PROFITS. PAGE 2

IN PRAISE OF SPRING NMG Hopes Season Will Kick-start Rtw

By DAVID MOIN

THE NEIMAN MARCUS GROUP likes the look of European fashion and is hoping for a much-needed lift in ready-to-wear sales. “We believe there is going to be a reason to buy WEDNESDAY, MARCH 11, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ready-to-wear. We feel pretty positive about the kinds of trends we are seeing,” Karen Katz, NMG’s presi- WWD dent and chief executive offi cer, said from Paris dur- ing a conference call recapping the company’s second fi scal quarter and plans. “Going into the spring season, we are probably as excited as we have been in a number of seasons about the big fashion change,” Katz said. “There is a big movement of this bohemian look. The Seventies, as a reference period, are all over the runways. We do be- lieve the kinds of ready-to-wear we are seeing on the runway, the kind of shoes, are things customers don’t necessarily have in her closets. There’s a completely different pant silhouette. “There are just different fashion trends than we have seen in the past couple of years. For our fashion customer, we believe there is going to be a reason for her to buy ready-to-wear. We think it’s re- fl ected in our designer ready-to-wear business. We are having one of the better seasons we’ve had in the last number of seasons.” If her prediction proves true, it will mark the reversal of a slide in designer rtw sales that has plagued retailers for the last few years. Women in- stead opted fi rst for handbags and shoes and, most recently, for fi ne jewelry. The decline left retailers bemoaning the lack of newness in the market. SEE PAGE 10 Fashion Is a Zoo: ‘Zoolander 2’ Set Café du By JOELLE DIDERICH AND MILES SOCHA PARIS — Blue Steel is back. Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson confi rmed they were reprising their roles as male models Derek Zoolander and Hansel McDonald (see below) in a sequel to the Mode cult comedy “Zoolander” with a surprise appearance Karl Lagerfeld all but slung a crisp white at Paris Fashion Week. The pair emerged at the end of the Valentino show and strutted down the catwalk napkin over his forearm as he welcomed to the sound of The Human League’s “Don’t You Want guests to the banquette-lined Brasserie Me,” throwing the signature Blue Steel look at camer- Gabrielle — a vast stage set inside as and prompting loud cheers from editors and celeb- rity guests including Kate Mara, Olivia Palermo and the Grand Palais — where Nicky Hilton. over croissants and sips of (See the review of the Valentino bubbly his patrons were show, page 7.) treated to a powerful, On their way textural, tweedy Chanel back, they both PARIS dramatically collection that satisfi ed on dropped their all counts. For more from coats on the run- Paris, see pages 6 to 9. way, with Stiller grabbing a cell- phone from a front-row guest PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY and filming himself. The actors made a quick exit after the show, avoiding waiting photographers and press. Later in the evening, Stiller told WWD that fi lming starts in Rome on April 7, and that the seven-year-old Valentino documentary, “The Last Emperor,” inspired him to fi lm the sequel in the Eternal City. “Rome is the most cinematic environment,” the actor said. According to a tweet from Paramount Pictures, the fi lm will be released on Feb. 12, 2016. Ignazio Marino, the mayor of Rome, posed alongside Stiller in photos PHOTO BY STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE SEE PAGE 11 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 11, 2015 WWD.COM John B. Fairchild Memorial Set THE BRIEFING BOX most often known — turned IN TODAY’S WWD By WWD STAFF Women’s Wear Daily from a stodgy trade publication NEW YORK — A memorial into a must-read among service for John B. Fairchild not only the fashion set but They Are Wearing: will be held April 21 at the worlds of society, the Paris Fashion Week. 2 p.m. at Saint Thomas arts and business, and also For more, see Church here. The church is founded W and M magazines. WWD.com. located at 1 West 53rd Street Above all, he played an at Fifth Avenue. integral role in developing Fairchild died Feb. 27 the modern fashion indus- at age 87 after a long ill- try by bringing designers ness. The former chair- out from the anonymity of man and editorial director the ateliers’ back rooms and of Fairchild Publications, John B. Fairchild, 1970 turning them into world-

Mr. Fairchild — as he was ARCHIVE PHOTO FROM FAIRCHILD wide celebrities.

Cucinelli Profits Rise 7.5 Percent DABROWSKI KUBA PHOTO BY initial public offering and that he was “very, very By LUISA ZARGANI happy” with being a public company. “We are stron- The Neiman Marcus Group likes the look of European ger, more international and more supported.” fashion and is hoping for a much-needed lift in its ready-to- MILAN — Brunello Cucinelli believes winds of change Sales in international markets rose 12.4 percent, wear sales. PAGE 1 are sweeping through Italy and Europe — “a very dif- accounting for 80.8 percent of total revenues. ferent and improved air, compared with a year ago.” Sales in the U.S. rose 12.7 percent to 122.9 mil- In a stunning finish at Valentino’s fall show, Ben Stiller as The Italian entrepreneur was speaking after lion euros, or $163.4 million, representing 34.5 Derek Zoolander and Owen Wilson as Hansel settled their walk his luxury goods company reported year-end re- percent of the total. Europe gained 8.2 percent to off once and for all. PAGE 1 sults. Higher sales and growth in both its retail and 116.7 million euros, or $155.2 million, representing wholesale channels helped Brunello Cucinelli SpA 32.8 percent of revenues, lifted by tourism. Greater There could be a thaw taking place between the Accord see net profit in 2014 rise 7.5 percent to 31.8 mil- China jumped 32.7 percent to 20.9 million euros, on Fire and Building Safety and the Alliance for Bangladesh lion euros, or $42.3 million, compared with 29.6 mil- or $27.8 million, accounting for 5.9 percent of total Worker Safety. PAGE 4 lion euros, or $39 million, in 2013. In the 12 months sales. The performance was favored by the conver- ended Dec. 31, revenues gained 10.4 percent to sion of three boutiques in Hong Kong at the begin- Bonobos’ sister brand Ayr will undergo its first significant 355.9 million euros, or $473.3 million at average ning of October 2013 into wholly owned units. wholesale expansion, entering some Nordstrom locations exchange, compared with 322.5 million euros, or The Rest of the World grew 16.6 percent to 27 $425.7 million, in the previous year. million euros, or $36 million, representing 7.6 this week. PAGE 4 Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation percent of sales, lifted by the conversion of three and amortization climbed 8.4 percent to 63 million wholesale boutiques and 13 hard shops in depart- The battle to close what many advocates say is an euros, or $83.8 million. ment stores to directly operated stores in Japan, Internet sales tax loophole was revived once more on Cucinelli, chairman and chief executive officer carried out in September. The Italian market posted Capitol Hill on Tuesday. PAGE 4 of the firm, said the group is “in the midst of a de- a 2.7 percent growth in sales to 68.5 million euros, velopment path in Italy and abroad, with excellent or $91.1 million, accounting for 19.2 percent of rev- Gucci is coming to New York. The Italian brand is planning an results in terms of both revenues and margins. We enues. Referring to Russia, Cucinelli said that or- event on June 4 to show its cruise collection under the new consider this latest year as a ‘fundamental’ year for ders for spring “held up” and that he saw no change creative direction of Alessandro Michele. PAGE 9 the image of our business.” for the fall season, despite the fact that the company He touted the brand’s “clear positioning at the has no directly operated store in the region. Schiaparelli is reportedly in talks to bring on Bertrand Guyon, highest end of luxury as well as the distinctive fea- The group’s retail channel rose 28.6 percent, a seasoned couture designer currently at Valentino, as its tures” of the collections and their “craftsmanship, while wholesale monobrand gained 14.3 percent, ex- creative director. PAGE 9 modernity, style and quality. cluding the conversions to the direct channel, while “The above can be said also of our latest fall col- the wholesale multibrand division rose 1.5 percent. According to Forbes’ 29th Annual The World’s Billionaires lections. Since all orders have already been placed As of Dec. 31, the monobrand network was made List, the fashion and retail industry is one of the most by now, we can already guess that the trend can con- up of 105 stores, compared with 98 at the end of the lucrative sectors. PAGE 10 tinue at the same pace this year too, reaching dou- previous year. ble-digit growth of our revenues,” the ceo added. The company confirmed nine openings al- Funeral services were held today in Boston for Walter J. Cucinelli said that this “is a favorable time for ready formally contracted for 2015. Of these, our Italy, too. The weaker euro will support our Frankfurt and Singapore opened earlier this Salmon, a Harvard Business School professor who died Sunday exports, the large quantity of cash injected by the year. Other key openings include units in Tokyo, at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center at age 84. PAGE 11 ECB [European Central Bank] into our economies Monte Carlo, Vancouver, Honolulu’s Ala Moana, will support credit flows to businesses, the reforms and Düsseldorf, said Cucinelli. During the call, South by Southwest began as a quaint music festival. of our government are on the right track and as our he underscored rising rents, citing, for example, It’s since mushroomed into a smorgasbord of TED-style nation is a manufacturing country, we can envisage Madison Avenue, now at 5 million euros, or about talks, concerts, parties and must-see events. PAGE 12 a new thriving time ahead.” $5.5 million at current exchange, compared with During a conference call with analysts, Cucinelli 1.4 million euros in 2007, or Los Angeles, where ON WWD.COM said this was the third year since the company’s rents have risen fourfold. PARIS THEY ARE WEARING: Statement outerwear was the predominant fashion story in Paris as brisk temperatures hit Target Eliminates 1,700 Positions the fashion capital. For more, see WWD.com. The workforce reductions are one part of a By ARNOLD J. KARR transformation of the business being undertaken by FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Cornell, who succeeded Gregg Steinhafel as chair- @ WWD.com/social TARGET CORP. CHIEF executive officer Brian man and chief executive officer of Target in August. Cornell wasted little time in delivering the job Among its priorities are a greater focus on a “chan- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. cuts he outlined to investors last week. nel-agnostic approach” to its business, investments WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. Target Tuesday informed 1,700 employees that in technology to support digital growth and an em- COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 50. WEDNESDAY, MARCH 11, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, their positions were being eliminated as part of a phasis on its apparel business and newer store for- Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, June, August, September, October, November and December, plan, disclosed at the company’s investor confer- mats, such as TargetExpress and CityTarget. and two additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. ence on March 3, to cut about $2 billion in costs Target estimated at its conference that capital Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian over the next two years. Included in the cuts would expenditures during the current year would total addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, be “several-thousand positions,” Target said, de- between $2 billion and $2.2 billion, including a $1 P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at clining to be more specific. billion investment in technology and supply chain. [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York In a regulatory filing with the Securities and Steinhafel resigned in May following a data Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected Exchange Commission Tuesday, Target said the breach that took a serious bite out of Target’s holi- address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you first round of cuts would result in severance costs day 2013 sales. Fourth-quarter comparable sales are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues of about $100 million, “all of which are expected to fell 2.5 percent and the company lost nearly $1 bil- contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business and production require cash expenditures.” Those expenses will be lion for the full year on its failed entry into Canada. correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656, or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. booked as a pretax charge in Target’s financial re- The Canadian operation was closed and its assets For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. sults for the first quarter ending May 2. placed under bankruptcy protection in January To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED It didn’t disclose the effective date of the termi- with associated pretax losses for fiscal 2014 total- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND nations or the distribution of cuts throughout its ing $5.1 billion. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED organization, which are expected to be focused on Shares of Target slipped 1.2 percent to $77.67 in TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE jobs at its Minneapolis headquarters. New York Stock Exchange trading Tuesday. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WE’RE CELEBRATING BOLD WOMEN WITH BOLD VOICES

Women everywhere are leaning in, shaking up the status quo, and leading the way forward. Join us in Austin as we celebrate Noisemakers in technology, fashion, film, music, food, business, and art. Follow the action at #N MMakeSomeNoise WEDNESDAY, MARCH 18 Special Appearances by: • Zuzu Perkal, Artist • Natasha Case, Cofounder of Coolhaus Musical Performances by Atlantic Records Artists: • Jess Glynne • The Knocks • DJ: Jilly Hendrix THURSDAY, MARCH 19 Featured Speakers: • Freida Pinto, Actress, Advocate and Activist • Jenna Bush Hager, NBC’s Today Contributing Correspondent • Dyllan McGee, Founder of McGee Media, Founder/Executive Producer of MAKERS • Shiza Shahid, Cofounder/Global Ambassador of The Malala Fund • Katherine Keating, CEO/Executive Producer of Keating Company International • Gracie Schram, Singer/Songwriter, TED Speaker and Philanthropist Musical Performances by Atlantic Records Artists: • Clean Bandit • Night Terrors of 1927 • Kaleo • Anderson East • Max Frost • DJ: emmieshouse

FRIDAY, MARCH 20 Featured Speakers: • Laura Dern, Academy Award–nominated Actress and Humanitarian • Katie Lee, Chef, Author and Co-host of Food Network’s The Kitchen • Rebecca Minkoff, Designer and Businesswoman • Lizzy Plapinger, Musician MS MR and Co-owner/Founder of Neon Gold Records • Audrey Gelman, Political and Brand Communications Consultant • Rosario Dawson, Actress and Philanthropist Musical Performances by Atlantic Records Artists: • Marina and The Diamonds • Milo Greene • Melanie Martinez • Christine and The Queens • Meg Mac • DJ: emmieshouse

Visit NeimanMarcus.com/MakeSomeNoise for talent additions, updates, and to RSVP to attend. Speakers and musical guests subject to change. #NMMakeSomeNoise

606S15_10x13.875_WWD SXSW SCHEDULE AD.indd 1 3/9/15 1:28 PM

4 WWD wednesday, march 11, 2015 WWD.COM

Bangladesh Accord and Alliance: Playing Nice safety and health committees “it is taking a long time to as column strength; fire safety meetings. “The supply chain By Mayu Saini for workers,” Rob Wayss, execu- finalize. The joint letter to the measures — such as the need in the country has been se- tive director of the accord, said. government is our collective for fire doors and sprinklers riously disrupted due to THERE COuLD BE a thaw tak- The accord is a consortium of way of trying’’ to push,” he said, — and electrical safety, includ- the ongoing violence,” said ing place between the accord unions and 190 European and adding that the intention is to ing issues related to wiring and Kazi akram uddin ahmed, on Fire and Building Safety and north american retailers and continue to move forward with safety sockets. Talks concerning president of the Federation the alliance for Bangladesh brands, which source from 1,446 several pilot programs regard- these issues also have involved of Bangladesh Chambers of Worker Safety. factories in Bangladesh. ing the committees. “Our pi- the other stakeholders, includ- Commerce and industry. The bitterness and rivalry as the factory inspections have lots are really focused on one ing the government, the iLO and The accord still has further between the accord and the been completed by both groups — with the international Labor the Bangladesh university of inspections — the factories that alliance, the two groups of by the alliance in July 2014 and Organization’s Better Work Engineering and Technology. were added by signatory com- brands and retailers that are the accord in September 2014 — program, another with Sai Over the last eight months, panies to the accord list after working to improve factory condi- they have moved onto the second Bangladesh and Rapid Results another important issue was the aug. 15, 2014, were not included tions and worker safety in the na- step, which includes the process institute. a third will be with duplication of inspections in in the initial round and were tion’s apparel industry, appeared of remediation, as factory own- some of the trade unions we are about 300 shared factories where scheduled for inspections start- insurmountable on the ground ers fix the plants that have been working with. The goal of all brands from both the accord and ing January 2015. Meanwhile, over the past year. This was even inspected. The second phase also three will be to experiment with alliance have production. The the accord has received 900 cor- though their fundamental agen- includes the formation of safety different ways to building up the accord later agreed to avoid du- rective action plans from fac- das were the same: To make the and health committees at the plication in the factories that tories with support from signa- industry safer and more sustain- factory level. These are sched- had already been inspected tory companies and has posted able after the collapse at the uled to begin with pilot pro- by the alliance. The issues more than 500 online. Of these, eight story building Rana Plaza grams in the coming months. The government of fixing these factories also 598 have been approved by the in april 2012, in which more than Government rules on the appears to have generated accord and 73 corrective action 1,130 workers were killed. implementation of the com- should be the one to more cooperation as financ- plans updated after follow-up But in the last few weeks it mittees appear to be unclear, ing the remediation becomes inspection reports. appears that the ice between and Thursday’s joint let- a bigger issue. Officials from There are 52,605 safety issues the two groups is melting, and ter aims for more clarity on publish the rules the Bangladesh Garment that need to be resolved in the 500 government officials in Dhaka the matter. Wayss noted the Manufacturers and Exporters that were published as of Dec. 1. as well as factory owners said importance of government on labor law. association have estimated The largest number of these are they can feel a palpable change. participation. “The election that this would cost an esti- electrical issues. “Many factories “it’s true that we are work- of worker representatives — ROB WAYSS, ACCORD mated $250,000 per factory, report that they have remediated ing closer together these days,” is going to be a sensitive or $3 billion collectively. the majority of their electrical said ian Spalding, adviser to subject, i think, and requires a capacity to establish democratic a bigger issue facing both safety hazards, which the accord the alliance, which represents prominent role by the govern- elected representatives as part sides has been the unstable situ- will verify. This means that many 28 brands and retailers includ- ment. The government should be of the committee,” he said. ation caused by blockades in the fires have been prevented, be- ing Target Corp., VF Corp., Wal- the one to publish the rules on The two groups are working country over the last two months. cause over 70 percent of garment Mart Stores inc. and Gap inc. labor law, how the elections are together in other ways. Spalding “Our inspectors are able to factory fires in Bangladesh are that source from about 587 fac- going to be held, oversee those said the additional collabora- travel mostly on the weekends and caused by electrical malfunc- tories in Bangladesh. elections and serve the regula- tions included sharing inspec- in limited capacities for inspec- tions,” the report noted. On Thursday, the two are set to tory functions if there are any ir- tion reports, corrective action tions and factory visits slowing Last week, the new u.S. am- take a major stride forward with regularities in the elections. it’s plans and joint meetings. down the process of factory visits bassador to Bangladesh, Marcia a joint request to the Bangladesh important for the government Reports of discord between and discussions,” Wayss said. Stephens Bloom Bernicat, vis- government for quicker decisions of Bangladesh to step up and do the accord and the alliance Estimates from the BGMEa ited the BGMEa offices for the as they set out on new pilot pro- that,” he said. have been widespread over the are that $20 million has been first time. grams for worker safety. Spalding explained that the last year, but it has also been lost by factories in a two-week She spoke about the role of “The application to the alliance also has been pushing apparent that they share a com- period alone, as factories run the garment sector in driving so- Bangladesh government is to behind the scenes for the gov- mon goal. There have’’ been below capacity, struggle with cial change, and about the need take forward the issue of imple- ernment to finalize the imple- extensive negotiations about shipments and global retail- for the finalization of rules for mentation of the occupational mentation regulations. structural safety measures, such ers curtail travel plans and the amended labor law. Ayr Expands Wholesale Reach, Tests Home Try-on Internet Tax Bill Revived Bonobos founder and chief execu- line in 20 of its doors (the retailer only if they have a “physical By RaCHEL STRuGaTz tive officer andy Dunn, who told is also an investor in the men’s By KRiSTi ELLiS presence” in the customer’s WWD earlier this year that he ex- wear company). now, Bonobos is state. E-tailers such as eBay BOnOBOS’ SiSTER BRanD ayr pects ayr to hit $4 million in sales sold in all 117 nordstrom stores WaSHinGTOn — The bat- and others that don’t have dis- will undergo its first significant in 2015. and the retailer picked up suiting tle to close what many advo- tribution centers or offices in wholesale expansion, entering initially, Dunn thought that ayr as a category during the holiday cates say is an internet sales a certain state have relied on nordstrom this week. should be focused on establishing season. additionally, nordstrom tax loophole was revived on that decision to avoid collect- The vertical e-commerce itself as a denim brand, but Winter started carrying Bonobos in its Capitol Hill on Tuesday. ing sales tax on online orders. company — an acronym for all disagreed. She didn’t want ayr to Canadian outpost in Calgary late a group of bipartisan sena- Brick-and-mortar retailers year Round — starting selling its be pigeonholed into a single cat- last year (the brand’s first inter- tors introduced a bill, dubbed argue that puts them at a com- denim, cotton pants, woven tops, egory and supported the growth of national wholesale account), and the Marketplace Fairness act, petitive price disadvantage. silk tops and outerwear on nord- an expanding outerwear selection will roll out similar offerings in which allows states to collect “We welcome this effort to strom.com earlier this year, but — a sector of the business the two its Ottawa door this month and taxes on online and other re- level the sales-tax playing field this is the first time ayr will be see as a “top opportunity.” Vancouver in the fall. mote sales in the 45 states between Main Street mer- sold in a brick-and-mortar envi- But beyond wholesale growth, and the District of Columbia chants and online retailers,” ronment, save for the Guideshop ayr wants to find ways to physical- that collect sales tax whether said David French, senior vice in its new york City headquar- ly connect with its consumer base. they have a physical presence president of government rela- ters. The line is available in three On Feb. 4, the brand began to in the state or not. it also pro- tions at the national Retail nordstrom doors to start — in pilot a home try-on program with vides for a small-seller exemp- Federation. “For far too long, Bellevue, Wash.; Dallas, and Los one item, its best-selling skinny tion that prohibits states from brick-and-mortar retailers angeles — but if the brand follows jeans in the ultradark blue “Jac’s requiring remote sellers with have faced a competitive dis- in the footsteps of its men’s parent Jean” wash. Customers who opt less than $1 million in annual advantage solely because of company, consumers can expect to The AYR in are sent up to three sizes of the nationwide remote sales to Congress’ inability to resolve see the buy-now-wear-now basics home try- jeans and temporarily charged collect sales and use taxes. the online sales tax disparity. in many more nordstrom loca- on page. $1 per pair. They’ll receive them The new legislation, led it is Congress’ responsibility to tions in the near future. within two days and have one by Sens. Dick Durbin (D., ill.) lay out a legislative framework “We sold more jeans than we week to decide what fits and what and Mike Enzi (R., Wyo.), is on online sales tax collection, had customers,” Maggie Winter, Winter saw similar purchas- they’re sending back. similar to a bill the Senate and we hope that the introduc- cofounder and brand director of ing patterns with outerwear in the month since, the compa- passed in May 2013 that later tion of this bill will spur con- ayr, said of the brand’s first year when the brand began selling on ny has seen a 10 percent lift in its stalled in the House. gressional action to remedy in business, which saw $2 million Shopbop.com in September, ayr’s denim business — the core of its Retail groups have been this problem this year.” in gross sales. “This was a good foray into wholesale. The fashion sales. and of the people who have pressing Congress to pass Joe Rinzel, senior vice pres- and a bad problem. [it meant] we pieces did better than the essen- bought from the home try-on sys- legislation for several years. ident for government affairs needed more customers. There’s tials, the opposite of when con- tem, 75 percent were new custom- Congress has been unable at the Retail industry Leaders huge outside potential of building sumers buy directly from ayr’s ers, according to Winter, who said to find a resolution on the association, said: “Ending the an audience through nordstrom.” Guideshop, Winter said, noting the brand spread the word via e- issue of taxing internet sales, special tax treatment afforded and while denim still is the that there was no price resis- mail marketing. as states have been enacting to online-only retailers has largest category for ayr, The Robe tance for outerwear pieces that “This isn’t a $15 dollar product; their own laws to close what been a top legislative priority — an unconstructed, italian wool neared the $550 mark. you want to know exactly how it’s they say is a loophole cre- for the retail industry and it’s coat — is on its fourth reorder. it Bonobos, which has been going to work on you. [We need to] ated in 1992 in Quill v. north time to finish the job in 2015. made its debut with the brand’s around for eight years, didn’t have get past hurdles on price and fit,” Dakota, a Supreme Court rul- all retailers deserve a fair first full collection and was the a physical wholesale presence Winter said, adding that they’ve ing that stated retailers were shot to compete in the free most expensive piece at $485. This until five years into the business, shipped about 500 pairs of try-on required to collect sales tax market without the govern- was an eye-opener to Winter and when nordstrom picked up the jeans so far. from out-of-state customers ment’s thumb on the scale.” 800.929.Dior (3467) Dior.com

288876_Dior_WWD_03.11.15_x1a.indd 1 3/6/15 9:13 AM

WWD • 03.11.15 • Trim:10” x 13.875” Non-Bleed • Job# 287557

ISO 12647-7 Digital Control Strip 2009 3% A 100 60 100 70 30 100 60 100 70 30 100 60 100 70 30 100 40 40 100 40 100 40 70 40 70 40 40 40 70 40 40 70 40 70 40 40 3 10 25 50 75 90 100

B 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 40 100 40 40 100 10 40 40 20 70 70 70 70 40 70 40 40 0 0 0 0 3.1 2.2 2.2 10.2 7.4 7.4 25 19 19 50 40 40 75 66 66 100 100 100 80 70 70 100 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 11, 2015

Chanel: Welcome to Brasserie Gabrielle, a place where the Chanel Chanel foreign-born proprietor celebrates the innate Franco traditions of diversity, resulting in debate and most of all, style. And if delighted patrons indulge in a croissant or 10 a.m. flute of Perrier-Jouët, well, there’s plenty for all. This foreign-born proprietor leaves nothing to chance, and can afford the attention to detail; he’s well- funded by virtue of a long-term superior employment situation that has more than panned out for all involved, the vast global network of Chanel clients included. Guests arrived to the Grand Palais, transformed into a vast brasserie with all polished wood, leather and brass atop an intricate faux-mosaic floor, yet another manifestation of the wondrous power-fashion fusion that is Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel. The idea to celebrate something intrinsically French came to him because he’s tired of French-bashing. “I’m not French, so it’s easier,” Lagerfeld said during a preview. “If I were French, to do it would look chauvinistic and stupid, but I’m a stranger.” Still, he couldn’t resist a little dig at a national debate focused on “la théorie du genre,” which in February saw protests here in reaction to school programs intended to discourage gender stereotyping among children. Lagerfeld’s solution: Have his adorable godson Hudson Kroenig Chanel (accompanied by dad Brad) arrive clutching a toy Ferrari in one arm and a specially commissioned Coco doll in the other. What exactly this has to do with the Brasserie or fall fashion — well, nothing, really. Lagerfeld’s mind operates at such warp speed that he’s a constant well of ideas, and if one or two fly in out of context, so what? A musing about gender studies didn’t distract him at all from a powerful Chanel collection. (In fact, he sent a few men out on the runway; they looked tweedy terrific.) It was impossible to take it all in; delightful though the set, it didn’t allow adequate viewing time from all vantages. The girls came from two directions, rushing around the huge oval bar before stopping briefly for photographers and going on their way, finally settling onto bar stools or banquettes. But you got the point — an impressive array of clothes, particularly for day, with plenty of that virtue du jour, diversity. There were senses of both classic Chanel and classicism upended. Suits, some with blouson jackets, were crafted from puffed squares of paper-thin leather; others, in tweedy plaids, featured skirts with deep bias borders. But Lagerfeld also made a big show of sportif, as in separates, Chanel- style: patterned sweaters and skirts under glittering parkas; sweater, skirt; cardigan layered over classic Paris Collections jacket and jeans; V-neck pullover stretched into a sweater gown. There was even a riff on workwear: short and long takes on waiters’ aprons (tweed or embroidered; never white) tied on over pants. Into the mix, Lagerfeld incorporated young, fresh trapeze LBDs; frou in black and white; and, in a pret-meets-haute moment, a huge triangle coat in a divine dissonant union of plain gray wool and frenetic jeweled feathers. His accessories: An oh- so-sensible slingback (great on the models; mumsy alert to a broader constituency) and white plates as handbags. Proprietor Lagerfeld always serves his fashion feast with a side of fun. — BRIDGET FOLEY WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 11, 2015 7 WWD.COM Valentino: It takes confi dence, not Valentino Valentino just a game sense of humor, to close your show with the walkoff for which the world has been waiting 14 years: Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson, in character as Derek Zoolander and Hansel, were the surprise fi nal exits of Valentino’s fall show. (Both modeled looks from Valentino men’s.) The joke landed. The crowd lapped it up. It was a fantastic, genuinely funny moment that anyone who decided to skip the show was surely sad they missed. A lesser collection would have been outright upstaged, but the “Zoolander” spoof was a generous bonus to an essentially perfect show. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are good sports, but they take fashion very seriously, continually raising the bar with imaginative decorative effects and deluxe fabrications within the airtight aesthetic language they’ve established. Two famous muses fueled this season’s fantasy: Celia Birtwell, the wife of Ossie Clark and muse to David Hockney, and Emilie Louise Flöge; best known as companion and frequent subject of Gustav Klimt, she was also a couturier of Wiener Werkstätte- style fashion. Both women brought rich, creative textile associations to the table, of which Chiuri and Piccioli made incredible use. Birtwell also collaborated on the “funky” dragon that appeared Valentino toward the end of the lineup. “Women can be multifaceted,” said Chiuri backstage. “They can be muses, they can be artists. And our collections speak about this in a simple way.” Simple didn’t begin to cover it. The show opened with stark black-and-white graphics on a trench with vertically striped arms, a horizontally striped hem and a patchwork of checks and triangles on the body. Optically entrancing, the patterns played out on dresses and easy sweaters over full midiskirts that had immediate impact. Considering the source material, the collection had a surprising amount of black, worked sparely on daywear and opulently — often embroidered with gold and silver threadwork — for evening. But there was ample color, too, in the subtle glimmer of gold on multicolored furs; a crimson red gown; burgundy, ice, pink and yellow lace arranged in crafty chevron patterns; the intense blue, red, black and gold of a geometric Viennese patterned gown. There were too many impressive, couture- Fall 2015 level treatments to list, all of them impeccable. The lurking criticism is that the delicately monastic silhouette the designers have become devoted to needs to evolve. But who can complain when the work is so exquisite? Besides, that point ignores the smart, Paris Collections ongoing expansion of their day range, and the fact that Chiuri and Piccioli did offer variation on their high-collared, long-sleeve, regal uniform for fall, tweaking proportions to give newness beyond nuance. There were cropped midcalf culottes and skirts the same length. Shoulders had capelet panels in the front and back, and high necks were graced with delicate bows tied to the side. Gowns plunged into deep V-necks, point d’esprit shoulders and sheer bustlines framed with fl oral embroideries. Romance turned sensual, heightening as the looks marched on. Then it all ended with a big laugh. The show satisfi ed on every level.

PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY — JESSICA IREDALE 8 WWD Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Alexander McQueen: With its David Sims photograph of a fragile decaying rose, the invitation to Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen Vanessa Alexander McQueen show brought to mind Lee Seward McQueen’s lyrical Sarabande collection. Decay, aging, imperfection, the inevitable processes of life that we fight and to which we inevitably lose have long informed the house aesthetic. For fall, Burton made subtle use of the motif. Her collection, she said, reflected “the fragility of life and the fragility of beauty, and how there can be beauty in decay,” but also, “the idea of decay and rejuvenation in real life.” She thus delivered a wistful yet positive collection. The show felt intimate, even under the vaulted arches of the Conciergerie where wide, curved seating tempered the threatening majesty of the centuries-old COLLECTIONS stone prison. There was a great deal of subtlety at play; roses as inspiration didn’t mean obvious patterns (until the end) but PARIS tone-on-tone weaves, pleated leathers FALL 2015 and typically beautiful laces. Also subtle: Burton’s increasing interest in showcasing either real commercial pieces or those evocative of less intensely wrought versions with real retail viability. There were ultrachic, slim-cut coats in rich tonal weaves; racy bustier dresses with pleated skirts that projected flamboyant charm, and a great tuxedo, sleek, provocative and — in jacquard with lace side stripes — more interesting than most. It was in her fabrics that Burton really got into the notion-dissipation motif, working lace and airy knits with fraying edges into tiered dresses in whisper-pink or black. These were girlish and sensual, frothy shapes unbuttoned in front over black bras. Two short dresses exploded into skirts formed by giant, wilting rose shapes; a pair of jacquard gowns, the only looks with easily readable floral patterns, had long, full sleeves, the cut of which also referenced the blossom. Burton’s work is very specific. Here, she stayed at the more controlled end of its range, keeping her extreme theatrical instincts in check, probably in response to the current pervasive commercial hoo-ha. But all is relative, and low-key from Burton still blooms with fashion. For more images, see — BRIDGET FOLEY WWD.com/ Alexander McQueen runway.

Paul & Joe by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by S ll other a Seward photo by dominique maître; photo by Seward WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 11, 2015 9 WWD.COM Acne Studios: The shoes and booties with their crushed- Iris van can heels, gleaming in copper or cloaked in masking Herpen tape, were the best things in the Acne Studios fall show. FASHION SCOOPS The rest was too arty even for the Centre Pompidou, where the show took place in a fi shbowl runway theater, crowds of young people pressed against the glass. HEADING TO AMERICA: Gucci is coming Baptiste What happened to this contemporary brand’s to New York. The Italian brand is Giabiconi effortless and enviable Scandi-cool, its sleek tailoring planning an event on June 4 to show and Karl and quirky yet approachable casual wear? Creative its cruise collection under the new Lagerfeld director Jonny Johansson got bogged down sculpting creative direction of Alessandro Michele. heavy blanket wools into Whipstitched hourglass coats Details about the venue are still being nearly as stiff as a Joseph Beuys sculpture, sheer knits mapped out. The last time Gucci held and asymmetrical leather skirts patched with raffi a. a cruise show in New York was in June Fashion professionals might be able to project how 2006. Michele, who succeeded Frida such ideas could translate in the showroom and on the Giannini in January, debuted his first retail fl oor. But what about all those kids out there in women’s collection for the Florence- the dark? — MILES SOCHA based label last month. — LUISA ZARGANI

Vanessa Seward: Purveyors of more affordable fashion IN THE PINK?: Could Schiaparelli have been converging on Paris Fashion Week like be zeroing in on its new creative pigeons on a stray crust of baguette. Vanessa Seward director? According to market sources, stands out because of her connections, her pedigree Schiaparelli is in talks with Bertrand

and her powerful backer, French contemporary chain Guyon, a seasoned couture designer STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE PHOTO BY A.P.C., for which she had previously done an upscale currently at Valentino. The Frenchman, capsule range. a graduate of the École de la Chambre strong coffee already this morning This alum of Loris Azzaro, Chanel and Yves Saint Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, and now I just want more,” said the Laurent doesn’t hide her Seventies references, has also worked at couture houses Florence and the Machine singer, as especially YSL from that era: Her lamé blouses, gently Christian Lacroix and Givenchy. she sat at a white tablecloth-clad table. fl aring wrap skirts and pert blazers are things one Owned by Italian entrepreneur Welch, who previously took her style dreams of fi nding at the Clignancourt fl ea market in Diego Della Valle, Schiaparelli has been cues from Stevie Nicks, is exploring new Paris — but good luck. searching for a creative director since directions for stage costumes ahead of Raw denim capes and swing coats, Bordeaux riding last November, when it parted ways the release of her third album, “How boots and silk secretary dresses all telegraphed with Marco Zanini after a two-season Big, How Blue, How Beautiful,” on daytime Parisian chic. For night, easy options included collaboration. Its spring collection June 1. “I’ve actually been making a a lacquered lace tunic over pants, or a plain, long- unveiled in January was designed by lot of stuff from scratch with a friend sleeved black gown with a side slit and a ribbon trailing an in-house team. — MILES SOCHA of mine in L.A., just, like, making from the hip. shirts and stuff, so that’s been really The show was cloaked in a charming, old-school BUNDLING UP: Roberto Eggs is joining exciting,” she said. “We’ve been vibe: the smiling, twirling models with their names Moncler SpA as the group’s new chief looking at a lot of Nick Cave suits and embroidered on their tight, high-waisted jeans; the operating officer, effective May 1. He Bowie ‘Thin White Duke’ era [clothes].” breezy soundtrack by her musician husband Bertrand currently is president, Europe, Middle — JOELLE DIDERICH Burgalat, who looked as if he just walked off the set of East, India and Africa at Louis Vuitton, “American Hustle,” and the small botanical prints and which he joined in 2009 after 17 years TAXING MATTERS: Vivienne Westwood — FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE thrift-shop colors. at Nestlé SA. At Moncler, he will be and her company — have defended WWD.com/ What impressed was Seward’s restraint as a designer. in charge of all business activities at the way they pay taxes following runway. Almost every exit could accompany a cool girl to Belle a global level and report to Moncler’s a story in The Sunday Telegraph Epoque, the bistrot du moment in Paris — a riposte chairman and chief executive officer that suggested the designer was to those pesky photo bloggers whose eyes hunger for Remo Ruffini. Ruffini underscored that avoiding paying money to the British overstatement. “I always say I make fashion for the Eggs “brings to Moncler significant government. The paper, citing pedestrian woman who has to walk a lot, hop on the knowledge about the rationale of the company’s accounts, said the metro and take her child to the playground,” Seward told international growth, together with a designer pays 2 million pounds, or Acne WWD during a preview, summing up the essence of real, deep culture of the retail business and $3 million, each year to a company Studios not fake, street style. — M.S. the luxury sector.” Eggs has a degree in Luxembourg for the right to use in economics and management, with her name on the fashion label. It Iris van Herpen: Iris van Herpen likes to feed off other specializations at the London Business suggested that by doing so she was disciplines such as science and architecture for School and the IMD in Lausanne. avoiding paying 500,000 pounds, her avant-garde creations, which have earned her a Vuitton plans to split Eggs’ role in or $754,300, in U.K. taxes annually. reputation as one of the most innovative designers two and promote two executives — All figures have been converted at working today. Alessandro Valenti and Francois Pedrol — to exchange rates from the periods She titled her fall collection “Hacking Infi nity” and cover his territories. It is understood to which they refer. The paper said it was inspired by terraforming, or the process of Valenti, currently Vuitton’s managing also pointed to a 300,000 pound, or transforming the biosphere of other planets to make director in France, is to add Northern $452,580, contribution that Westwood them like Earth. It was an abstract concept, and one that Europe, including Russia, while made to the Green Party, which could not immediately be read in the clothes. Pedrol, currently Vuitton’s general vowed last month to crack down on There were new fabric experiments — a translucent manager of the Middle East, is to add tax havens and tax avoidance. “I am stainless-steel weave and a honeycomblike 3-D Southern Europe and Turkey. concerned at the allegation in the handwoven material with frayed edges. Both were — M.S. AND LUISA ZARGANI papers,” Westwood said in an e-mail introduced in the opening look, a sheer sleeveless top to WWD. “It is important to me that and short skirt. It laid a foundation for the soft vs. hard UP ON THE ROOF: Marni is continuing my business affairs are in line with my contrasts that ran through the show and climaxed with its “Marni Prisma” 20th anniversary personal values. I am subject to U.K. an off-the-shoulder bustier jumpsuit with a wide belt of celebrations by hosting an event in tax on all of my income. sheer optical lighting fi lm that distorted the waist — a Hong Kong, during the upcoming “My personal donation to the Green novel way to achieve an hourglass fi gure. local edition of Art Basel. Following Party refl ects my desire to see a more Among the other showcase pieces were digitally the temporary flower market held equitable and sustainable society. I fabricated dresses made from spiky black plastic, created in Milan last September, the brand remain fully committed to the Green with architect Philip Beesley, and towering shoes will recreate a Roof Market at Pier 4. Party and will be doing all I can to sprouting chunky crystals on the soles, a collaboration Open to the public on Saturday from ensure that they achieve success in the with Japanese shoe designer Noritaka Tatehana (of Lady 7:30 p.m., the market, which will be general election.” The next general Gaga fame). decorated with a light installation election in Britain is due to take place Despite a bone-shuddering soundtrack, the display by Italian artist Massimo Bartolini, will in May. somewhat lost steam with the less-conceptual looks, feature counters selling a range of Westwood’s company said in a such as tight dresses in Fortuny-style pleats or a black customized Marni products. These separate statement there are no satin wrap coat that resembled a hair salon robe. There will include vase holders decorated illegal issues involved, and no one were fl ashes of brilliance — as in a cocktail dress with with the brand’s vivid patterns, tissue is being taken to court. “Vivienne hand-burnished swirls that spread into a pleated fan papers and picnic cloths, shopping Westwood Limited is part of an covering the face. But van Herpen has yet to sketch out bags in nylon net, as well as Marni independent, international group a clear vision of how she will translate her conceptual polka dot Saffiano leather handbags of companies operating in Europe, ideas into a viable ready-to-wear brand. and a range of metal and PVC animal USA and Asia. Latimo SA (based in — JOELLE DIDERICH sculptures handcrafted by Colombian Luxembourg) is the holding company women. All proceeds will benefit the of this group, which owns and protects Paul & Joe: A youthful mix of school girls and boys, Vimala Association, providing Tibetan the Vivienne Westwood trademarks neo-grunge and French attitude (berets) amounted children living in India with medical worldwide. to charming variety on Sophie Mechaly’s fall runway. care and education. “Vivienne Westwood Limited The collection won’t set the pace in any category but After Hong Kong, other Marni pays regular royalties to Latimo SA it offered a contemporary geek-chic style that wasn’t Prisma events will be held in Tokyo pursuant to a license agreement. gripped by trends. and Venice. — ALESSANDRA TURRA Vivienne Westwood Limited and Plaid shirtdresses worn with black combat boots all the companies belonging to the with thick laces worked the girlish side of grunge, while BREAKFAST CLUB: Chanel’s sprawling group pay all the required taxes in Seventies fl oral prints on fi lmy dresses and cotton brasserie show set at the Grand Palais all the countries in which they trade shirting went in a bohemian direction. The most current on Tuesday had celebrity guests like or operate, in accordance to audited look was a white shirt with fl oral appliqué tucked into Florence Welch in the mood to order a fi nancial statements.” generously cuffed boyish jeans. — JESSICA IREDALE second breakfast. “I’ve drunk a lot of — SAMANTHA CONTI

5x3

10 WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 11, 2015 NMG Looks’’ to Rtw Revival MEMO PAD {Continued from page one} Katz said if a consumer walks through certain FILTHY (AND FASHIONABLY) RICH: It pays to be in fashion — The strength of the U.S. dollar could also help Neiman’s stores, “You might see smaller children’s quite literally. Neiman’s business, but not right away. As Katz ex- areas. You might see smaller gift areas. On a dollar per- According to Forbes’ 29th annual The World’s Billionaires plained, “We are spending a lot of time with ven- square-foot basis, they don’t perform as well as shoes or List, the fashion and retail industry is one of the most dors talking about pricing. Not necessarily for bags. Although we downsized it in a number of stores, lucrative sectors, with Wal-Mart Stores Inc.’s Walton family fall goods, but when we go to buy resort and early the kids’ business online has been explosive.” leading the charge with a net worth of $41.7 billion. spring, we believe we will see a fl attening out in On Tuesday, the Neiman Marcus Group report- Forbes said fashion and retail rank fourth behind the pricing. We probably won’t see price increases the ed that net earnings for the second fi scal quarter sectors of investments, technology and food and beverage. way we had been. There may be some defl ation, ended Jan. 31 were $27.8 million, compared to a Other retail executives on the U.S. list include Nike Inc. but it would be very slight. Frankly, it’s more about loss of $84 million in the year-ago period, which cofounder and chairman Phil Knight, with an estimated what the product looks like, if it’s heavily embel- was largely impacted by costs from the acquisition $21.5 billion worth, and Revlon owner and investor Ronald lished. The clothes we of the company in October Perelman at $14.5 billion. Leonard Lauder, Leslie Wexner and Ralph are seeing have embel- 2013 by Ares Management Lauren followed with $9.1 billion, $7.7 billion and $7 billion, lishment on them. LLC and the Canada respectively. Under Armour chairman and chief executive “As the dollar We believe there is going Pension Plan Investment officer Kevin Plank amassed $3.2 billion, and earned a nod from strengthens we are Board for $6 billion. Forbes, which wrote: “Under Armour revenues increased also keeping a watch- to be a reason to buy A better barometer 32 percent in the last year, and profits jumped 28 percent. ful eye on European of the company’s per- Rather than spending hundreds of millions on endorsement customers,” who could formance is adjusted deals with star athletes as Nike and Adidas do, Plank is reduce spending, the ready-to-wear. EBITDA (earnings before shelling out for technology, buying three fitness apps for $710 ceo said. “That said, interest, taxes, depre- million since December 2012.” we are very enthu- — KAREN KATZ, ciation and amortization), Former chairman of Nordstrom, Bruce Nordstrom, made siastic about spring. which for the second quar- the list with $1.8 billion, as did Timothy Boyle, the ceo and Our customers are re- THE NEIMAN MARCUS GROUP ter came to $200.3 million, president of activewear firm Columbia Sportswear ($1.5 sponding to the trends, a 4.4 percent increase billion), and Richard Hayne of Urban Outfitters Inc. ($1.55 especially bohemian from $191.9 million in the billion). Sidney Kimmel, founder of the former Jones Apparel fashion — ethnic prints, fringe, spice second quarter of fi scal year 2014. Group, is worth $1.3 billion, Forbes said. Representing the colors, lightweight leather.” Comparable revenues increased 5.6 women were Jane Lauder and Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer with $1.4 Katz couldn’t resist mentioning the percent with total revenues of $1.52 bil- billion, each, and Spanx founder Sarah Blakely and Tory Burch, appearance of Ben Stiller and Owen lion compared with $1.43 billion in the both with $1 billion. Burch rival Michael Kors did not make the Wilson on the Valentino runway to prior year. Neiman’s best store regions list this year, but former Kors stakeholders Silas Chou of Hong hype “Zoolander 2,” which will be re- were the Northeast, the Midwest and Kong and Canada’s Lawrence Stroll did. Chou is worth $2.5 leased next year. “It was really quite Texas. According to Katz, there has been billion and Stroll is worth $2.4 billion. hysterical,” Katz said. “You really no material impact on Neiman’s Texas Looking globally, France’s Liliane Bettencourt, a principal need to go into the video. It’s a once- stores due to the drop in oil prices. shareholder in L’Oréal, is the second-richest executive in the in-a-lifetime moment.” “We’re pleased with our results. sector with an estimated net worth of $40.1 billion. Nipping At Neiman’s, luxury remains the ’’In general, the customer is feeling at Bettencourt’s heels is LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton top performer. “The strongest part pretty good,” Jim Gold, president and chairman and ceo Bernard Arnault with $37.2 billion. Kering’s of the business is the high end of the Karen Katz chief merchandising offi cer of Neiman François Pinault and family ($14.9 billion) and Chanel’s Alain business,” Katz said. “Fine designer STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Marcus, told WWD. and Gerard Wertheimer with $9.5 billion each follow. In fact, the apparel and couture is better than While generally upbeat on the busi- fashion/ retail sector was the number-one driver of wealth in those opening price points.” Contemporary rtw ness, one sector where offi cials were reserved was France as well as in Germany, Italy, Spain, Sweden and the U.K. and contemporary shoes are good, too. off-price. While Saks Off 5th and Nordstrom Rack “What always strikes me is that how much people who “The shoe and bag business is still trending better are aggressively opening sites, growth of Neiman’s are succeeding and moving up the ranks are those who are than high-end ready-to-wear businesses,” Katz noted. Last Call Studio has been put on hold so executives selling the items we like to wear and [running] the places we The ceo added that, “The men’s business contin- can examine the performance of the off-price divi- like to shop,” said Forbes assistant managing editor Luisa Kroll, ues to be quite good,” marked by “a couple of very sion’s stores before deciding to roll them out. None who heads up the wealth team that is responsible for the list. hot categories. The luxury sneaker category, which are planned for this year, after a string of openings Asked why Europe appears to have a lock on the sector, Neiman Marcus owned, is just explosive and these last year. In August, Liz Asay became senior vice Kroll said: “It’s interesting people ask how [wealth is] doing are sneakers priced from $500 to $1,500. That’s really president of the Last Call division, which includes regionally. Europe has not kept pace with Asia, but one area helped fuel the men’s business over the last year.” Last Call Studio stores, Last Call stores and lastcall. where Europe is a leader is they are tastemakers. Something Online sales continue to be a high point. Last com. Asay was senior vice president of e-commerce about their sensibility translates.” quarter, online sales, on a comparable basis, were up and Sephora at J.C. Penney Co. Inc. The editor acknowledged that some of those retail scions 15 percent. Mytheresa.com, a fashion retailer online “We will be addressing how we see the future of inherited their wealth, but she also pointed to newcomers also with one store in Munich, added $38.5 million in Last Call Studio late this fi scal year or early next such as Germany’s billionaire brothers Marc, Alexander revenues in the second quarter. Neiman’s purchased fi scal year,” Gold said. “There will be unit growth, and Oliver Samwer. With the initial public offering of their Mytheresa last fall and the second fi scal quarter was but it will not be a signifi cant driver of growth.” e-commerce firms Zalando and Rocket, the brothers are each the fi rst one to include Mytheresa numbers. “The whole off-price area, it could be some ad- listed at $1.7 billion. Neiman’s executives expressed concern over ditional growth, but it is not going to be a major In China, manufacturing counts as the number-one spending by international tourists, particularly those part of the way we see our growth,” Katz said. industry but Alibaba Group’s founder and chairman Jack Ma from Russia and South America, where there has been There are 30 Last Call clearance centers, 12 comes in second on its wealth list with an estimated $22.7 a decline due to the strong dollar and their own eco- Last Call Studio stores and lastcall.com. billion net worth. In Japan, where the top two sectors include nomic issues. “We are not dependent on international Instead of off-price, Neiman’s is looking to drive technology and fashion and retail, the biggest gainer and customers for a large amount” of business, Katz said. the lion’s share of growth through online innova- richest billionaire was Tadashi Yanai, founder and president When asked which categories have been weak, tions, raising productivity, store renovations, includ- of Fast Retailing. Yanai, whose company operates Uniqlo, is the ceo indicated that certain ones have been ing an extensive overhaul at Bergdorf Goodman, worth $20.2 billion, according to Forbes. downsized in the stores, namely gifts and chil- and other stores, and omni initiatives. A few addi- While retail and fashion made an appearance as a top dren’s. “We are always evaluating categories that tional full-line stores are in the pipeline, including sector in most countries, media was no slouch, as the fifth are not performing at the median or average,” Katz Hudson Yards on Manhattan’s West Side in 2018, largest sector in the U.S. said. “Some categories will have a bad month but and Roosevelt Field mall, which will be Neiman’s Top media executives included Anne Cox Chambers with we look very, very carefully over the long term [for] fi rst store on Long Island. “It’s scheduled to open in $17 billion, Rupert Murdoch with $13.9 billion and Condé Nast which categories we need to expand or need to February 2016,” Katz said. “The building has been chairman Samuel Newhouse Jr. ($9 billion) leading the pack. shrink. We do that on an ongoing basis.” completely framed and the roof installed.” — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

Face-to-Face Interviews with:

INTERVIEW FOR HUNDREDS OF ELITE 2 Years Experience Required FASHION POSITIONS ALL IN ONE DAY Open Positions Include: Retail Merch. Manager Apparel Design Thursday, March 19th 10:00am - 6:00pm Jr to Senior Buyer Technical Design Wholesale Manager Art Directors Metropolitan Pavilion Account Executives Marketing 123 West 18th Street Retail Operations Manager Brand Management Between 6th and 7th Retail/Wholesale Planner and many more

Register at FashionCareerExpo.com and more to be added 2.5x7 (right)

WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 11, 2015 11 WWD.COM ‘Blue Steel’ at Valentino OBITUARY {Continued from page one} movie, Alber Elbaz replied simply, “I love.” Walter J. Salmon, Retail Professor posted to his Facebook page last month, Nicky Hilton called the surprise revealing that an American and Italian catwalk appearance “genius market- ceo of Macy’s. “He was an early think- cast would be filming over 12 weeks at ing.” “Paris [her sister] was actually in By SHARON EDELSON er on so many of the retailing topics the Cinecittà studios and in external lo- ‘Zoolander 1.’ Ben [Stiller] was so ahead that are important to our business cations in Rome. According to Deadline. of his time. He knew who Paris was be- FUNERAL SERVICES WERE held today, from logistics to private brands. com, Penelope Cruz will be one of the fore she became Paris Hilton.” Tuesday in Boston for Walter J. Salmon, Walter knew something about almost female leads in the film, which is being “Oh my gosh! Very unexpected,” a Harvard Business School professor every topic we were working on, and said Mara of Stiller’s and Wilson’s and retail expert, who died Sunday at his ideas were often new and pro- walk down the runway. “That was Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center vocative. His thoughtful contributions Ben Stiller in so epic. And of all shows you would at age 84. The cause of death was com- to our strategic development made “Zoolander.” not expect them to be in this show, plications from a stroke. Neiman Marcus a stronger company. I which was just, like, the perfect At the time of his death, Salmon was will miss him.” marriage. I loved it.” the business school’s Stanley Roth Sr. Known as “Mr. Retailing,” Salmon “Just two great actors fooling Professor of Retailing, Emeritus. helped generations of Harvard Business around, playing around with the idea An active member of School grads find of fashion,” enthused “Rain Man” the Harvard University jobs in the industry. actress Valeria Golino, who was also faculty for 41 years, Walter J. Mortimer Singer, presi- caught off guard. Salmon shared with Salmon dent and ceo of Marvin Of course she’s a fan of the film. his students a global Traub Associates, said: “It’s impossible to resist,” she view of retailing. He “Walter’s students would said. “And even when you don’t like had an insatiable curi- come here and present that kind of movie, you cannot not osity about the way re- what they were working like ‘Zoolander,’ no?” tail businesses worked. on. He had this level of Her favorite scene: “Probably the “He couldn’t pass a thoughtfulness. His stu- PHOTO BY PARAMOUNT PICTURES/ COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION PICTURES/ COURTESY PARAMOUNT PHOTO BY duel between the two.” supermarket or retail dents were getting into Chiuri and Piccioli said filming development without [retailing] through en- written by Justin Theroux. on “Zoolander 2” is already underway going inside,” said his trepreneurial activity. As for Stiller, how has male modeling in Rome. “We met them and there was a daughter, Elizabeth They were thinking of advanced since the original 2001 movie? good relationship,” said Chiuri, adding Frank. “He was com- direct-to-consumer.” “There’s been 15 years of practic- that the actors came up with the idea for pletely interested in Salmon’s research fo- ing,” he said, joking that the posture is the stunt. “We said, ‘Why not?’” retail trends.” cused on trends in distri- “stretched out a little bit.” Piccioli said it was all in good fun. “We Salmon taught a va- bution and issues of or- Stiller declined to say love fashion. We think riety of MBA courses, ganization and logistics if any real fashion people that we have to have fun. including the required and retail information might make cameos in I mean, that’s what fash- first-year marketing systems. He authored or the new movie, as the ion is for,” he argued. course and electives in retailing and coauthored several hundred case stud- likes of Karl Lagerfeld, “We work seriously, but consumer marketing, as well as doctor- ies that delved into firms such as Gap, Tom Ford, Donatella we don’t take everything al classes. As a member of the execu- L.L. Bean, J.C. Penney, Dayton Hudson, Versace and Tommy so seriously. It’s some- tive education faculty of the Advanced Talbots, Dillard’s and Nordstrom. Hilfiger did in the origi- thing different.” Management Program, Salmon taught Salmon, who was born in New York, nal. But rumor has it It is not the first time courses to senior executives and graduated from City College in 1952 Lagerfeld and Anna Hollywood has used middle managers and developed a and received an MBA from Harvard Wintour are among those Paris Fashion Week as corporate governance program. “He Business School in 1954. After serving solicited to make appear- a backdrop. Director was consummately networked,” said in the U.S. Army, he received a doctor- ances — and Stiller last Robert Altman recruit- his colleague, Stephen A. Greyser, ate in business administration in 1960 fall was overheard talk- ed designers includ- the Richard P. Chapman professor of when he was also named an assistant ing with Ralph Lauren ing Claude Montana, business administration, Emeritus. professor. He became a full professor about potentially making Thierry Mugler, Sonia “He knew all the key people. Some with tenure in seven years at the age of a cameo. Rykiel, Jean Paul had been students of his or people he 37. Salmon became the first Sebastian After Stiller arrived at Gaultier and Christian met through the directorships of the S. Kresge professor of marketing in the party, he and Wilson Lacroix, together with a boards he sat on.” 1970 and the first incumbent of the joined Valentino creative slew of models and ce- Salmon’s board service included the Roth chair in 1980. He retired from directors Maria Grazia lebrities, to appear as Neiman Marcus Group, Circuit City, the Harvard faculty in 1997 but contin- Chiuri and Pierpaolo themselves in his 1994 TJ Maxx, Stride Rite and PetSmart. ued to do retail-related research and Piccioli for a jumping satire “Prêt-à-Porter.” He was also a director of the National course development projects at the portrait, spoofing a scene Sacha Baron Cohen Retail Federation. business school. from the original movie. Ben Stiller as Derek made a stir during “Walter was a board member at Besides Frank, Salmon is survived Clotilde Courau was Zoolander on the fashion month in 2008, Neiman Marcus when I was ceo there,” by two other daughters, Joan Salmon sorry she missed the Valentino runway. causing a commotion said Terry J. Lundgren, chairman and Kaminsky and Stephanie Shenton. show, but caught up via backstage at Iceberg social media. “It’s amaz- Owen in Milan; disrupt- ing how the whole thing Wilson as ing a Jean-Charles de went viral,” the actress Hansel. Castelbajac show; and said. (More than 100,000 hamming it up at Stella comments on Instagram McCartney’s show within an hour, the house dressed as his alter-ego confirmed.) Courau said Brüno, a gay Austrian she thought both charac- fashion show presenter For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. ters were genius and let and the title character slip that Piccioli might of his 2009 film “Brüno.” get a cameo. Neither gener- Check out Following a whiff ated the excitement of a standoff on the that Stiller and Wilson the new DIGITAL Valentino catwalk be- did, though — in fact, tween himself and Altman and Cohen version of Stiller, Owen Wilson was stirred more resentment PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS undecided about who than admiration. Full service shop to the trade. had won the duel. “Oh, But for those want- Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 The I don’t know. It looked ing more details, so like a draw to me. What far all involved are premier did you think?” he said. remaining relatively destination The Hotel Salomon mum. Reached for com- de Rothschild was ment in Los Angeles on for the fashion decked out for the Tuesday, “Zoolander industry’s Real Estate, party with a delicious 2” producer Stuart Business Opportunities,

Bracchian table in old GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY Cornfeld declined to Roman fashion amid discuss what designers and Help Wanted listings. antique furniture and would be involved in ornamental lamps from the school of the movie — or anything else about it. POST YOUR LISTINGS ONLINE NOW! Lalanne. It wasn’t long before guests in- “We’ve pretty much got our fashion cluding Christian Louboutin and Kate thing happening,” he told WWD. FASHIONCAREERS.MARKET.ADICIO.COM Mara took to the dance floor throbbing As for the budget, Cornfeld respond- with Blondie’s “Heart of Glass.” ed, “I don’t like when people ask how Stiller’s and Wilson’s appearance at much a movie cost. It costs $12 at the Valentino was the talk of the shows on box office, that’s what it’s all about.” Tuesday — as was the possibility of anoth- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM er “Zoolander.” Asked about the original PAULINA SZMYDKE AND MARCY MEDINA 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 11, 2015 WWD.COM

“EX MACHINA” CATEGORY: Headliners STARRING: Oscar Storming Isaac, Domhnall Gleeson and Alicia Vikander. WRITER-DIRECTOR: South By Alex Garland, writer of “28 Days Later” Taissa Farmiga takes and “The Beach,” Austin, Tex., with making his feature fi lm debut. three fi lms at South by PITCH: An intense Southwest. Plus, six love triangle between two men and a of the festival’s other beautiful robot — or must-see movies. in other words, a love story for nerds.

“FRESNO” CATEGORY: Narrative Spotlight FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE STARRING: Natasha Lyonne, Judy Greer, WWD.com/eye. Aubrey Plaza and Fred Armisen. DIRECTOR: Jamie Babbit PITCH: Greer and Lyonne, who starred in Babbit’s “But I’m a Cheerleader,” play maids who kill a guest. Think “Bernie” meets “Drop Dead Gorgeous.”

eye “HELLO, MY NAME IS DORIS” CATEGORY: Headliners STARRING: Sally Field, Natasha Lyonne

PHOTO BY STEFANIE KEENAN STEFANIE PHOTO BY and Wendi McLendon-Covey. DIRECTOR: Michael Showalter, making his HAVING AN ACTOR sibling has its perks, In addition to appearing in the first feature debut. as any Mara, Olsen, Affleck or Wilson season, Farmiga built her own following PITCH: Field undergoes a hipster can attest. Like others before her, Taissa as teen witch Zoe Benson on the third makeover. Enough said. Farmiga, 20, didn’t have to go far to get season of the anthology series. Although discovered. Her sister, Vera Farmiga, cast she’s no longer on the show, there’s her when she was 15 to play a younger always a chance she could return. “They version of herself in her 2011 directorial bring people back sometimes at the “SPY” debut “Higher Ground.” “Vera would most surprising moments,” she notes. CATEGORY: Headliners photograph me and our other siblings, She next appeared in Sofia Coppola’s STARRING: Melissa and she said when she saw me on camera “Bling Ring,” cementing her cool-girl McCarthy, Rose Byrne she saw something in me,” says Farmiga, status. “Sofia’s incredible. She’s very soft and Jude Law. the youngest of seven siblings. “I agreed spoken, but she knows what she wants,” WRITER-DIRECTOR: because she’s my big sister and I didn’t says Farmiga of the writer-director, Paul Feig want to get beat up.” herself no stranger to nepotism. PITCH: McCarthy Now, with three re-teams with her buzzy projects “Bridesmaids” and premiering at South A still from “Six Years.” “The Heat” director by Southwest, which to play another begins Friday in Austin, rowdy McCarthy-type Tex., Farmiga is poised character. If it to claim a little of the ain’t broke… spotlight on her own. “This is crazy,” she says of her disparate “TRAINWRECK” projects: “Share,” a CATEGORY: Headliners short directed by pal STARRING: Amy Pippa Bianco; “Six Schumer, Bill Hader Years,” a relationship and Tilda Swinton. drama shot last year DIRECTOR: in Austin during the While Farmiga still Judd Apatow festival, and “The lives in her hometown PITCH: Apatow is Final Girls,” a horror of Whitehouse Station, screening Schumer’s comedy with Malin N.J., she was speaking feature screenwriting Åkerman, Nina Dobrev from Los Angeles, where debut as a work-in- and Alia Shawkat. she’s shooting the ABC progress. The last It was during pilot “L.A. Crime” with movie he screened another film festival, Erika Christensen. like that here? A little Sundance, where she “I never officially something called promoted “Higher moved out of my “Knocked Up.” Ground,” that Farmiga bedroom in my parents’ officially caught the house,” she admits. acting bug. “I’m just traveling so “I realized that much for work.” “SNEAKERHEADZ” CATEGORY: Documentary I loved it, and I just In addition to TV Spotlight kind of jumped in,” work and festival fare, DIRECTORS: Producers she says. That led to Farmiga managed to David T. Friendly (“Little her first TV audition make a couple of big- Miss Sunshine”) and for “American Horror budget movies. She just Mick Partridge, making Story.” “They called Taissa and Vera Farmiga in 2014. finished shooting a still- PHOTO BY GREGG DEGUIRE/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY their directing debut. me and were like, untitled Warren Beatty- FEATURING: Samantha ‘[director] Ryan Murphy really likes you,’ helmed project about Howard Hughes, Ronson, Futura, and I was like, ‘What!?’” she recalls. After and “In a Valley of Violence,” a “good Wale and DJ Skee realizing she would be acting alongside old-fashioned Western” with Ethan Hawke PITCH: From Retro Jessica Lange, she was overwhelmed. “I and John Travolta. During the shoot, she Jordan 11s to the was like, ‘I’m going to keep my head down passed up buying a pair of expensive boots, latest Nike Foamposite, and be a good girl.’ If you have someone a choice she now regrets as she’s headed to an exploration of our that amazing in front of you, you just have Texas. “I wish I had a good pair of cowboy obsession with sneakers. to take what you can from it, but without boots to throw on with a skirt, you know?”

being in the way, just observing,” she says. — JENNY SUNDEL OF UNIVERSAL PICTURES COURTESY AARON EPSTEIN; “TRAINWRECK” “FRESNO” BY SEACIA PAVAO; MY NAME IS DORIS” FILM STILL BY “HELLO