ACNE STUDIOS * BRAND IDENTITY ANALYSIS BA HONS FASHION PR London College of Fashion Ilona Angelova Year 1 Katerina Jebb Self Portrait - 2003 Hans Bellmer The doll William Wegman Andre Kertesz In the dark a coat rack looks like a man- 1972 Benjamin Alexander Huseby Goodbye Johnny - Primal Scream
Andrea Larsson Ten magazine - September 2011 Jack Pierson Andre Simeons Gallery (left) Angel Youth (right)
Jamie Hawkesworth Benjamin Alexander Huseby Stills from Goodbye Johnny Angel music video for Primal Scream Mattias Karlsson Mattias Karlsson For Acne Paper THE LETTER
The pages of this book are a written and visual analysis, which have the aim to illustrate understanding of the world of the fashion brand Acne Studios. It looks at the different creative individuals with whmo the brand has collaborated with through the years. The book looks at selected campaigns, collaborations and collections and represents the works by single images on pages, in order to visually engage and capture the values of Acne Studios’ creative team. The analyses are based on the concept - look at the brand’s surrounding in order to understand the creative director and the brand from inside.
The book is created as a magazine, where flipping through the pages instead finding adverts as a beginning, it provides visuals of the work of artists, photographers and stylists involved in Acne’s work. This idea is based on the idea of ‘tell me who your friends are and I will tell you who you are.’ It believes that showing people’s work gives a visual experience of their personalities, visual aesthetics and values. This helps the attempt to understand what it is about Acne, which makes it so unique in the fashion industry.
It also provides the reader with two main analyses, which focus on the values of the brand. They are entitled The Story and Acne Paper. Here the publication is seen as one of the most important aspects of understating Acne’s identity. The magazine is their unconventional way to promote (advertise) the brand and its analysis gives an opportunity for insightful research about Acne itself.
They are followed by writings on Acne’s collaborations: artist Katerina Jebb, who is the brand’s most recent collaborator and Luis Venegas, editor of Candy magazine. The analyses see the importance of associating the brand with innovative individuals, while building its image as an innovator itself.
Looking at Candy magazine and its collaboration with Acne Studios gave the opportunity to explore the culture phenomena of transsexuality and its impact on fashion today. This controversial topic also inspired the print and online trend features written as possible content in Acne Paper. The two features are dedicated to Antony Hegarty and his ideas as a transgendered musician, artist and co-founder of The Future Feminism Foundation. Katerina Jebb In order to illustrate understating of the brand, the book also contains SWOT and CHANEL PERFUM WITH RAW MEAT 1997 Competitor analysis. The aim of the SWOT analysis is to represent Acne itself, as well as the analyse of its competitors is important aspect of understating the brand’s way to stand out of the crowd. I have also created two Pinterest boards, which believe to answer the brand vision about its use of social media channels.
As an end of this journey is a written piece as a conclusion, which aims to sum up my understanding of the broad cultural influences of the brand, its values and vision.
Ilona Angelova / BA Fashion PR CONTENT
The Story-Ambition to Create Novel Expression William Wegman-Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign Neoclassicism ACNE PAPER Katerina Jebb Katerina Jebb x Comme des Garson Acne Studios x Katerina Jebb Autumn/Winter 2023 13 OBJECT BY KATERINA JEBB FOR ACNE STUDIOS Spring/Summer 2014 and Autumn/Winter 2014 Autumn/Winter 2012 Hilma Af Klint Capsule Collection 2014 Acne Studios x Luis Venegas Candy Magazine ACNE STORES Swot Analysis Celine JW Anderson Alexander Wang Other competitors CONSUMERS Antony Hegarty-print feature Antony Hegarty-online feature Why Antony Hegarty? Pinterest
Vincent Van De Wijngaard Conclusion Muse Magazine #33 Spring 2013 Daniel Silver Untitled (2008)
Lucy Skaer. The white T-shirt - Acne project left: Jamie Hawkesworth right: Mattias Karlsson right: Katerina Jebb NEPENTHES 2010 left: Jack Pierson CONTACT DETAILS
Ilona Angelova London College of Fashion BA Hons Fashion PR Year 1 Term 2 - March 2014
email: [email protected] telephone: 07887 3 999 32 Andy Warhol Photo Booth Self-Portrait, ca. 1963 right: Hilma Af Klimt Af Klimt right: Hilma The Ten Largest, No. 1 left:Daniel Carlsten Nowness left: Daniel Silver right: Stefan Bruggemann THE STORY ACNE ABMITION TO CREATE NOVEL EXPRESSION ‘‘ We loved everything about the Factory, how they looked like, and the way they did things - whether you were old or young didn’t matter.’’ JONNY JOHANSSON, CREATIVE DIRECTOR
BY ILONA ANGELOVA
Dannis Hopper, 1963 At the beginning it was team exists. The creative original meaning when they Andy Warhol and Interview director says: ‘We wanted to are put together in a magazine, as the creative be a creative entity, an mixture of different ideas director Jonnny Johans- eclectic universe.’ It is about and references. The final son says himself. This story the idea of having a place for image is produced solely to ‘‘It is not about delivering ideas and dreams, it is about is based on the fact that people to create art in many sell people something they making them physical and that is a big challenge... Acne pop artist’s multidisciplinary different ways and everyone have already had and which is more than a clothing company’’ approach to art serves as to be a part of the creation has been recycled many an inspiration to Acne’s of something valuable and times. Avoiding this, Acne JONNY JOHANSSON founders and is seen as a meaningful. has positioned itself as an fundamental aspect of the innovator within the building the image of the Through referencing industry. brand. It has the aim to interviews with the creative draw different references director, it is evident that The brand remains honest to Andy’s philosophy and Johansson and his team aim to its consumers by actual start explaining the brand’s to create something “novel activities, collaborations and vision. with integrity.” Honesty unique inspirations, which is considered as one of the build its identity. This is In 1996 in Stockholm the biggest values of the brand, considered as the right way creative team of Acne was and when a bit of mystery to make people believe you formed as a digital-film- (one of Warhol’s strongest who you are and what you design-creative collective. personal characteristics) is stand for. Furthermore, it The brand was born from added, creates Acne’s distinguishes Acne from its the idea of its creators to formula of playing the game competitors and supports ‘dip their hands into every in the industry. This its vision and aim to inspire possible pocket of art and statement could be proved its consumers. However, the culture’ (Dazed). Having by their refusal to have brand does not have a said that, it is mostly classical advertising priority to explain reflected by Acne Paper, as campaigns. It could be everything to everyone. well as the collaborations analysed as an attempt to Similarly, to the way in of the brand with different save their integrity. which Warhol is described artists and today’s culture People tend not to believe in as ‘a person is his art’, the influencers. Similarly to the adverts. There is a created creative director of Acne has large range of Warhol’s art impression about become his brand, for whom works, Acne Studios advertising in general; that is very important not to provides its consumers not there is always something reveal and explain each only with innovative hidden behind an advert, action he makes, because it clothing, but with unique which aims to manipulate is been taken out of his cultural experiences and people’s purchasing personal life. inspirations. decisions. This is because the product is always shown This is a story without an Citing Johansson who says in its full magnificence. end; it is just the beginning that at the beginning they of the journey through Acne ‘loved everything about The There is this moment of Studios’ brand identity. Factory, how they looked kitsch and superficiality like, and the way they did in today’s post-modernistic things-whether you were approach to fashion and its old or young didn’t matter’ visual language. Too many (Interview magazine). A references are taken and possible reference between mixed together. All the Warhol’s factory and Acne’s references tend to lose their Below is an example of one from just a few Acne Studios’ advertising campaigns. It is a “I’m a big fan of William Wegman’s work, its beauty, witty humour and collaboration with the artist William Wegman, who is famous for photographing his intelligence but also what it says about identity and culture. I always Weimaraners. The use of dogs, instead of conventional models for this adverting campaign, thought it would be interesting to work on a project together. The outcome speaks for itself. It could be read as an attempt to escape from classic advertising, as well as to create an image of the brand as a supporter of art and culture. In general, a dog is seen as is beyond all expectation.” honest and man’s best friend. There is something very grabbing and innocent in the eyes of JONNY JOHANSSON (www.itsnicethat.com) these Weimaraners.
all photos: William Wegman Acne Studios Spring/Summer 2013
Acne was founded as a jeans brand; however, it lifted itself very quickly to a high market level within the industry. It owes its success to the ambitious strategies of associating itself with the high-end lifestyles of creative fields like fashion, art, interior design, culture in general. Acne’s managing director Schiller says that when he started at Acne he ‘decided to forget the lesson he had learned in school - “analysing markets and figuring out consumers targeting, and he started the opposite way–by making a fantastic product, whether it is a gown or a magazine, if they do this, it will be easy to sell and if people like it, they will come back”. This speaks about Acne’s authentic approach. The brand does not try to fit anywhere through doing consumer researches and analysis, its creators are part of the society - the brand’s desirable target market and actual where it is sold.
Style: ‘On the streets with identical chain stores selling identical merchandise, ACNE is perceived as different.’ (Dazed)
Johansson’s signatures: JUXTAPOSING with: Design and attention to details Emphasis on tailoring Eclectic use of materials Custom developed fabrics, which express what the brand stands for; authenticity by creating their own materials with eclectic spirit of the designs, as well as quality and perfect tailoring.
Words: offbeat, edgy and slightly twisted, slightly avant-garde and ‘eminently’ wearable, bohemian, but NOT minimal; it is colourful, loving nature, loving life.
Acne signatures are pale pink, Swedish grey and sky blue Daniel Silver for Acne Studios NEOCLASSICISM
‘I like current and honest fashion, which is working with my life, things that are very close to me at that moment, makes it current for me’ JONNY JOHANSSON
In order to get a better grasp The Neoclassical movement being in the middle, making of the brand’ identity, a look drew inspiration from the references to several things, at the creative director classical art and culture of but never going too far. Jonny Johansson’s interests Ancient Greece and Ancient A little bit of a twist and is important. This is inspired Rome in the decorative and oddness but still saving the by the quote, that a person visual arts, literature, functionality. It sounds like becomes their art, and in this theatre, music and Acne’s golden medium for situation the creative director architecture. Furthermore, design. becomes his brand and vise the Eighteenth century is versa. However, the person believed to be the Ages of behind the company is the Enlightenment; Ages of Characteristics of the former of its identity. Reason (there is always an Neoclassical period are also added meaning (value) and austere, pure, clean and “I like current and honest a reason behind Acne’s crea- masculine, which refers again fashion, which is working tions), as well as Ages of to the design features of Acne with my life, things that are Elegance, where Acne finds Studios. In general, very close to me at that itself as elegant, however Neoclassicism was a conscious moment, makes it current for with a bit of a casual, reaction against the opulence me”, Jonny Johansson contemporary twist. As it was and ostentatiousness of (Interview magazine). shown, references between Baroque and Rococo, both those neoclassical values and associated with the church It is easy to understand the Acne Studios’ visual and the monarchy. brand’s multidisciplinary ap- aesthetics can be made. proach to fashion when Looking at Acne Studios’ looking at the many visual culture, collaborations, interests of its team. Key Terms in Neoclassicism store designs, etc. many For example, Johansson is are Order, Balance and references to Neoclassicism fascinated by photography, Harmony could be made. As a particular art, architecture and The movement is about the example is the collaboration contemporary culture. golden medium, as well as with British born sculpture However, for Interview symmetry between objects. artist Daniel Silver. For him magazine he says that when These ideas about things Jonny says that he was he is asked what he is con- which are to be perfectly fascinated by the similarity nected to, ‘Neoclassicism is symmetric and the search for of the way they both work. As what he brings up’. The the great medium refer to the the creative director describes Neoclassical movement is vision of Swedish it: “it is not a modernistic known to have modern culture. Johansson describes thing, but more of a neo- approach to the creation of it as Design-wise, which is classical style with a re- its arts, as well mixed with not minimal, but functional. interpretation of classical historical references. This It is called lagom “just in the forms in a contemporary is a little bit of what Acne is middle”. The creative director manner” (Dazed). above: Acne Studios catwalk space trying to do today. says that Swedish people like below: Acne Studios Paris store to be in the middle. It is about left: Jacques-Louis David The Death of Socrates, 1787 right: cover Acne Paper, issue 13, Spring 2012 ACNE PAPER
“Our crown jewel“ JONNY JOHANSSON
BY ILONA ANGELOVA
Every issue of Acne paper heavy paper with much is dedicate to a particular important content. Its format Visuals: Perhaps, the most theme, which is broad enough suggests that this magazine interesting fact about the to satisfy even the most is a paper with value. Apart magazine is that it does not creative minds. Every issue from its soft paper cover, accept advertising, similarly approaches its topic from the it looks like a book on the to the brand itself, which does very close, as well as from the shelves of TASHEN book not advertise. It demonstrates very far perspective, in order stores, which people keep for to big extent the authenticity to be interesting, different, a lifetime. Acna paper has of the brand and its level of unpredictable and inspiring. collector value. independence. However, this analyses will focus on the last #15 issue Cover: The title of the However, there are two types entitled ‘’The Actress’’. In publication is at the bottom of visual materials inside the general, the publication of the page, which suggests to Acne paper #15. These are speaks in intelligent and the reader that the magazine fashion stories and the creative manner, while issue is different from other images, which complement #15 have pieces from works conventional publications. the features. by ones of the best writers of It is designed on a white It is also very likely to see a contemporary literature, such background and the images sequence of images on as Joyce Carol Oates, Blonde are mainly black and white. several pages. In this (2000). This immediately When put on the page, the particular issue for example associates the paper, as well image creates the illusion of they are portraits of as the brand with high having a white border around Hollywood actress by George cultural pieces of writings. itself. It looks like an old Hurell. Today, he is known photograph, taken by Polaroid as the man who invented the ‘Acne paper’s signature camera, which at some extent Hollywood glamour (this is a has always been to bridge might refer to Johansson’s simple example of Acne’s aim the past and the present by vision of combining past and to feature of the best working around a timeless present. individuals who are related to subject, to make it our own’, Furthermore, the image takes its topic). says Persson, Editor-in-Chief most of the space on the front and Creative Director cover, which suggests the Fashion stories: The brand’s importance of the visuals as strategy to associate itself Inside the paper: a communication tool of the with high-end fashion and brand. This is also seen in consequently situate itself on Design and content: Acne Studios as a brand with a high level within the multidisciplinary approach, industry, is demonstrated by Format: Similar to the books as well as a member of the the creative works in Acne found Acne paper is an A3 big family together with Acne Paper. magazine and it is always a Digital and Acne Creative. Within the #15 issue the name a different angle of the topic font. The headings are simple, of the stylist Mattias Karlsson by referring to variety of fields, one or two words, which is found very often, however, in cultures and people. They also introduce the subject in general he is an individual who aim to inspire and educate. The indirect and interesting ways. works closely with Johansson pieces are not created to be on The subheadings of the features and Persson. Examples of the the tube reading. Their format are quotes. In general, quotes brands used for photo shoots and content ask the reader to are always intelligent thoughts; within this issue are Rochas, dedicate time to read them, as they inspire and give an insight Yamamoto, Celine, Carven, Raf well as to provoke the readers about a subject. Simons and Acne. to think, as well as to give them Furthermore, the different use of new ideas. The rest of the features are models shows the deep about actors themselves. Their exploration of the subject by its Furthermore, most of the headings are simply the first creators. In just one of several features in #15 issues are names of the person in capital fashion stories they have used interviews or conversations letter, followed by an real models and the rest of the between the writers and the introduction in italics. Using shoots are dedicated to individuals interviewed. This the first name of an individual, different actresses from different approach gives a feeling of who is proven one of the best in age groups such as Onata novelty to an old, but timeless her field, is possibly one of the Apprile and Dina Paisner. subject. It also makes the best options for headings. Their In terms of colour palettes Acne’s features special, in a way that names say enough about them; visuals are often black and white the conversations are furthermore, using only their photographs, which give a authentically created for this first names creates a feeling of feeling of nostalgia about a magazine and its readers. It closeness to the subject. It could timeless idea, as well as couldbe said that this allows be said that it allows the reader referring to the past by placing Acne Paper to approach the to feel as if he knows this it within a modern concept. subject in its own way and to person. make it its own. Photographers within the In addition, each of features is issue: In addition, a comparison written by a different author. between Acne paper and He/she tends to be an expert in Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Interview magazine, which was the particular field. Andreas Larsson, Dennis started by Andy Warhol back in Schoenberg, Paolo Roversi, the 1960s, could be made. Style, fonts – The font used in Vincent Van De Wijngaard, Interview featured interviews the features is Serif, which is Jamie Hawkesworth, Laura with celebrities and famous related to their length. Long Sciacovelli. Examples of their people who Andy asked texts are usually written in Serif works are within the pages of questions such as ‘do you dream’. in order to make them easier to this book. The answers of those sorts of read. Furthermore, this type of Most of the supportive visual questions automatically give font is usually used for books materials of the features are people a deep insight about the and publication with serious taken by photographers character of an individual. The content. The Serif font used in mentioned above, who are same as Warhol’s magazine, Acne Paper is Didot Font. It is common Acne’s collaborators. In Acne paper is interested in known to be created for “one of this way of thought, the brand people’s way of thinking, ideas the most dramatic magazine creates its own visual and inspiration behind their reinventions in history.” H&FJ materials, which helps it to work. Assumedly, this is the Didot honors a heroic period in create an authentic image for reason why conversations and French typographic history. itself within the industry. interviews dominate the content of the magazine. Vocabulary: smart as well as Features are very long, usually simple. Acne commends at least 2-3 A3 pages. The text Titles and subtitles: The first intelligently on subjects, but at layout is designed to fill the couple of features have a specific the same time in very clean and entire page, divided in two or genre such as sculpture, theatre, supposedly in a simple way for three columns. casting, etc. and individuals are discussion. Sometimes because The features are smart, interviewed in relation to these of their unique character, the insightful and analytical pieces subjects. The genre is introduced ideas themselves are a bit of writings. Their aim is to show at the top of the page, in serif complicated, so the language remains smart but not difficult. ‘...to do a movie is a trip itself; it is a trip within you and outside you. Acting is about incredible imagination.’
ISABELA HUPPERT
Inside Acne Paper The Actress issue left: Hilma af Klimt - The Ten Biggest, No 2 1907 right: Stefan Bruggemann THE COLLABORATION
KATERINA
‘‘I like collaboration that are not about co-branding, that are about experience’’
JONNY JOHANSSON
Who is Katerina Jebb?
Jebb was born in England in 1962 and studied photography in California. In 1991, while working as a photographer for the French newspaper Liberation, she was involved in a car accident, which left her right arm paralyzed. This accident could have put an end of her career as a photographer and artist. However, her passion for creating helped her find a way to make life-size images by using scanners. One of Jebb’s most famous scans are of herself, lying down on a high resolution scanning machine.
‘‘Progressively, she diversified, posing subjects and objects, exploring the medium in parallel with the expanding possibilities in digital technology. ‘‘
Katerina Jebb for Purple Magazine KATERINA X COMME DES GARSON
‘‘I dedicated the interior design of DSM New York, to the outsider spirit’
REI KAWAKUBO
BY ILONA ANGELOVA Rei Kawakubo invites Katerina Jebb to create and show work at the opening of DSM in New York in May 2014. Meanwhile there is a Balthus exhibition at the Metropolitan museum of Art. It is the first retrospective exhibition of Balthus in the USA in last 30 years.
This inspired the artist to scan Balthus’ working garment and create art pieces, which complemented the opening of the DSM store. The Balthus’ working garment is famous for never being washed by the painter for over sixty years. It brings the feeling that the artist went very close to something very personal, as well as something that has in itself a long history of work. However, the artist has also created several fragrance campaigns for Comme des Garcon. Katerina Jebb left: Purple Fashion, Fall/Winter 2013 right: Blonde Hairbrush ACNE STUDIOS x KATERINA JEBB
‘‘Acne studios plays the game according to its own rules and wins’’
MODDECONNECT.COM
BY ILONA ANGELOVA
Acne began collaboration with Katerina It is clear that Katerina Jebb is seen as Jebb in 2010, when they asked her to an influential figure in today’s art create a video featuring a Swarovski culture. The aim of this analysis is to solitaire crystal on a scanner. Three show the connection between Kawakubo, years later, the artist creates the prints Jebb and Acne on a level of innovation. for Acne Studios’ Men and Women’s Kawakubo has a strong reputation of Autumn/ Winter ’13 collections. Both innovator herself. collections were presented in Paris. Jebb could also be considered as an Apart from the business decision to show innovator in the contemporary art scene, in Paris, Jebb as is based in Paris, and because of the finding of a new way of the Musee Galleria was a key element for creating images. This is one more the creation of the collections. Jebb and example of how Acne Studios Johansson used the galleries’ archives communicates its values to its to select fashion pieces, which Katerina consumers, as well as building the then scanned and subsequently made the brand’s high association with today’s images into collages. The final images high-culture influencers. were integrated by Johansson into Acne’s ready-to-wear collections.
Vivianne Sassen left: Acne Studios Autumn/Winter 2013 right: Vivianne Sasse’s work ACNE STUDIOS x KATERINA JEBB
13 objects photographed by Katerina Jebb for Acne Studios
BY ILONA ANGELOVA
Katerina Jebb and Acne Acne Studios and Jebb than just fashionable studios played with the take objects from one of the clothes for a particular concept of pop art, creating bigest obsessions of season. art images from fashion contemporary A photograph is forever, garments. Their culture - fashion. The idea as Warhol says “people collaboration takes the idea behind these scans of pieces change, but images do not.” that objects can become from Acne’s collection could Photographing fashion in art’s subject matter. Pieces be seen as an attempt to this non-commercial way, of Acne’s collection were blur the boundaries but at the same time with scanned by Katerina and between fashion and art. the final aim to sell the developed as pieces of art. As Malcolm Barnard (1996) garments, gives fashion the It is well known that says: long lastingness it needs to Johansson plays his ideas ‘‘But fashion could never be considered as art. The around Warhol’s concepts hope to achieve the feeling of these garments with a great success. Nat status of an art until it to be seen as art could be Finkelstein, The Factory overcame its created by the fact that the photographer says: “Andy ephemerality. Closely images do not have a date took the artefacts of associated with its or a season. This saves the ordinary life and used theatricality’’ images from obsolescence. them to create mirror of The question is: could this society. He put into an collaboration be considered Acne should continue its assailable Gestalt the signs as an art form. By collaboration with Jebb and Katerina Jebb and symbols of reality. Not documenting fashion work on an exhibition in 13 objects for Acne Studios creator...an garments in this artistic collaboration with the innovator, Andy was way, the pieces of artist. Possibly, she can the Sony of modern art” clothing automatically create some more abstract (1996). became something more scans out of Acne garments. Hilma af Klimt The Ten Largest CAPSULE COLLECTION SPRING 2014
HIMLA AF KLIMT
BY ILONA ANGELOVA
Acne Studios takes original not ready for her paintings. possible unity and paintings of the Swedish totality between them. As it abstract artist Hilma Af Acne was fascinated by her was explained in the analyses Klimt to interpret them into extreme ideas and beliefs. of Acne x Candy magazine new special collection of The complex collection of (Luis Venegas), Johansson sweatshirts, tops, totes and works that she created was has been always interested scarves for spring 2014. Af driven by her interests in eso- in blurring the lines between Klimt was an avant-garde teretic and occult male and female designs and artist in the late 19th and questions of life. Assumably, creatinggarments which are early 20th century, who is of- the brand embraced her col- slightly twisted and create ten juxtaposed to artists such ourful abstractions, prompted confusion. Af Klint did not as Mondrian, by her desire for a challenge gender Kandinsky and Malevich. reconciliation of stereotypes; however, she She began painting contradictions. Her aim was had the avant-garde idea of abstractions in 1906, years unity and totality. In the art females and males bonding before artists such as pieces, which Acne used for its together and existsing as one. Kandinsky had his first collection, her ideas are On a spiritual level expressed exhibition in 1912 or driven by the attempt to in a painting or seen in the Mondrian, who established visualize a higher union forms of a fashion himself on the art avant- between the opposites of male silhouette, the idea of garde scene with the work and female and light and juxtaposing men and women he produced after the 1920s. darkness. to a level to make them equal Moreover, she is known to had and unified is very much made automatist drawings In general, it is interesting avant-garde for early 20th decades before the surrealists to see how brands are able to century; it is avant-garde (Searle, 2006). communicate their today. aspirations and ideas through However, Af Klimt lived and the work of other Moreover, much of Acne worked in isolation and individuals with a similar Studios’ work shows, reflects ignorance from the way of thinking. Af Klimt’s or implies references from European avant-garde painting printed on Acne’s high culture of Sweden. Acne movement. As Searle (2006) sweatshirt is a big statement is a brand with says in the Guardian to be about the brand. She is a very multidisciplinary approach; a woman artist in the early controversial and spiritual it is fascinated by different 20th century was difficult, but artist, who once forgotten, cultures of America for to be a woman artist and to then began to be recognised example, collaborates with believe as she did, was even as a pioneer within abstract British artists, but it is good more difficult. She believed art. that they also support their her art was meant to be for cultural heritage and take humanity in the future and In order to explain how she ideas from cultural stipulated that it should not is relevant to the brand one individuals on a national be shown until 20 years her should start with Af Klimt’s level. death. During her life she was ideas about mixing male and convinced that people were female and expressing a “It was the moment for me to do something really straightforward; I wanted it to be really pure. I revisited the classic poem ‘Till Havs’ (Out to Sea). It’s about the power of the sea, and humanity relating to the sea. Stockholm is sixteen islands, so we’re brought up with this thing; everyone spends a lot of time in the archipelago. And my mother and father met at sea, so it’s a very personal thing.” via Dazed Digital
JUSSI BJORLING - TILL HAVS / OUT AT SEA
COLLECTIONS Nu blåser havets friska vind ifrån Smokey and ocean fresh breeze from sydväst the south SPRING/SUMMER 2014 Och smeker ljuvligt sjömans kind av And caresses sweet sailor’s kind of alla vindar bäst! all winds the best! Till havs, till storms, du djärva jakt To the sea, to the assault, you bold Till storms, till havs, var man på hunting vakt For storms, sea, where the guard Till havs! At sea! På endlös led är livet fritt, ej trives On Endlos suffered life is free, not tvång forced thrives När havet sjunger, grönt och vitt, When the sea sings, green and sin höga frihetssång white, its high freedom song Till havs, till storms, du djärva jakt At sea, the storms, you bold hunting Till storms, till havs, var man på For storms, sea, each man on guard vakt At sea! Till havs! Surge beautiful, beautiful sail swell- Sväll härligt, sköna segel, sväll i ing in the wind dust vindens dust Aerospace forward with delight to Flyg fram med fröjd mot vågens fjäll scale the mountain of the moment i stundens högsta lust! highest desire! Till havs, till storms, du djärva jakt To the sea, to the assault, you bold Till storms, till havs, var man på hunting vakt For storms, sea, where the guard Till havs! At sea! HANNELINE ROGEBERG
presume truth, and dig for below-human-register frequencies’
‘In these paintings I accept the inadequacy of any system of representation to COLLECTIONS AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 Acne Studios’ Fall 2012 collection is an example of the broad spectrum of Johansson’s inspiration. Behind the strange designs of this winter collection is hidden the influence of three different artists, who have something in common – body obsession. The result is clothes, a mixture of distorted silhouettes of Andre Kertesz, the erotic sculpture Hans Bellmer and the colour pallet of the painter Hanneline Rogeberg. This collection proves the aim of the creative director to challenge himself, challenge design, mind and body, as well as to challenge his consumers. Fall 2012 creations explore body proportions and it plays on the border between strange, new and different. Hanneline Røgeberg Study for post bomb pelt II COLLABORATION
ACNE STUDIOS x LUIS VENEGAS
‘It touches on ideas I have always played when designing for Acne, the tension between male and female and what happens when you shift things around a bit’
JONNY JOHANSSON
The capsule collection (2011) with Luis Venegas, editor-in-chief of the cult transsexual magazine Candy is a pure example of an attempt to embrace diversity within today’s culture. Venegas created three androgynous shirts in silk, crepe and Italian denim, taking inspiration from transgenderism and cross-dressing. Johansson and Venegas celebrated diversity by designing shirts, which make people ask themselves if it is for a girl or for a boy. The collection has the aim to confuse, but assumably in order to make people think that at the end it is alright to dress how you feel, not according the social norms of gender stereotypes. They are not just the unisex shirts people know, they are garments which make statement about society and its perceptions about diverse people. With the aim to challenge one more time Johansson’s work and collaborations, I asked the question ‘Why is Acne Studios so different? CANDY MAGAZINE
‘is a fashion and transversal style magazine that doen’t seek to pretend to fight for anything that it actively does not justify. But if we ever want to stand up for something anything, it would not be ‘equality’, it just does not cross our minds. ’
LUIS VENEGAS
BY ILONA ANGELOVA
Deeper research is required in business fields. groundbreaking, something order to make any definitive which people will think, it has statements, but it is Transvestites and never been done before. interesting to question the transsexuals have long been idea about diversity and how inspiration for different He says that ‘Now trannies transgendered people make people. For example the in fashion are sort of a trend, their mark on popular culture relationship between Amanda but when the first issue of today. Twenty first century Lear and Salvador Dali, Candy came out in October societies of big culture David Bowie’s muse Romi 2009, no one was doing it. influenced by cities tend Haag or Grace Kelly and That was way before Andrej to become more and more Divine. Pejic and Lea T. So, I feel open-minded and for like somehow, from my little example, transgendered It is important to look at office, I started something of a people are more often found people like Luis Venegas trend.’ as an inspiration for fashion who started Candy the first designers, artists, as well as magazine, which celebrates Having said that, and on the pages of leading transvestism, transsexuality, having in mind the magazines, within street and cross-dressing and androgyny collaboration with Johansson club culture. in all its all manifestations. in 2011, place these two And when something new and individuals as innovators It is still time for people to different is on the market, it within their industries. forget the old fashion slowly starts making its way However, it is considered associations about in changing people’s as a brave step for a fashion transgendered people. perceptions about what company, because people need However, there is a possible society has taught them. time to accept the challenges shift of people’ perceptions. of sexual diversity in It needs just a look around Venegas named his magazine particular. and among people and see after Candy Darling, who was that there are important and also a muse of Andy Warhol. successful transgendered The magazine was created individuals in many different with the idea to be something VISUAL REFERENCE
The campaign of Acne Studios’ Resort 2013 collection could be considered as inspired by transgender aesthetics. Natasa Vojnovic is a well-established and beautiful female model. However, a closer look at the images of the campaign suggests how well Acne’s team worked the idea of blurring the lines between femininity and masculinity. The choice of a model seems to make sense about the final aim. She has interesting beauty and masculine features.
Shot by Kacper Kasprzyk (left) STORES
“Every store is different, the idea to make something new, to reflect the local environment and to give the customer a unique experience”
ANDREAS FORNELL
BY ILONA ANGELOVA
‘‘Open stores in cities they company. As the architects approach to arts seen in find personally appealing, describe it, Bozarthfornell their store’s interior’’ when everyone else is a brand, a collective maybe be rushing to personality based on Flagships: London, Paris, China, ACNE was mutual references and New York City and Tokyo seduced by Japan’’. inspiration. However, their (Reference) focus is fashion retail Tokyo - opened in 2012 - design and the interiors of Jonny and architect Acne leaves its signature of Acne, Sandro and Repossi Andreas Fornell redesigned being ‘truly different are made under their a raw industrial space in without saying it out loud’ creativity. the Aoyoma district (East) in every aspect of its to an interior, which communication with the Fornell says about Acne’s resembles a modern public. The brand’s retail stores that ‘every store Swedish house. spaces are one more is different, the idea to example that Acne has a make something new, to Perforated walls designed very authentic approach to reflect the local by Fornell are often seen in decision making. environment and to give Acne’s stores. The idea the customer a unique behind perforating them The brand has in-house experience’. Furthermore, is an attempt to achieve architect, Andrea Fornell, an article in Another transparency, a sort of who designs every store dif- magazine finds the honest, but not total, ferently. He is a part of the relationship between Acne’s openness. This interior creative collective approach and Andy design reflects to the full Bozarthfornell. They are a Warhol: ‘Inspiration from the brand’s values of group of 10 architects who Andy Warhol’s integrity, as well as a little are more than a consultant multidisciplinary bit of mystery. Paris Paris London stores: the brand’s eclectic art re-construct places, which universe. Playing with the are not meant to be retails The team says they choose interior design of stores. In the Parisian their store locations based retail spaces enable Acne to store, there is also a marble on going away from the communicate very well its sculpture by English conventional and obvious brand values to the public. artist Daniel Silver, with choices, which best who Acne did a capsule reflect Acne’s identity. For Any interest in the collection. Johansson says example, Dalston in artworks in the store is about the store that ‘about London would be too satisfied by readings about Paris it had to be obvious for them. However, them. It is interesting to something very Stockholm, Dover Street Market allows look at the book related to with the materials and the brand to place itself Goodman and his painting functionality.’ Perhaps, next to the high-end brands in the store. It is also because they moved their with well-established interesting to find out showroom from Stockholm reputation of innovators that his work was inspired to Paris due to commercial such as DSM. by Baroque, the opposite and business reasons. movement of Neoclassicism, Dover Street Market. and its heavy ornaments. Stockholm office: Old This might be analysed as Town, Lilla Nygatan 23, The impression of the store that the creative director Old Bank Building is that men’s clothing is does not put himself on the ground floor. This boundaries only with the The creative team of Acne speaks about the ideas he truly likes. likes to surround itself importance of men’s with inspirational spaces. fashion and men 93 Pelham Street- As For example in the office in consumers for the brand. Schiller, the managing Stockholm there is vintage However, there might be a director, says this is the copies of the 1950’s Fair commercial reason for this ‘territory of yummy magazine; one of the most section placing. Having in mummies’. Once again talked about and influential mind, men’s fashion is hard Acne’ store reflects the magazines ever created. It to sell. environment of the area it was an icon, as its founder is placed and this store in Feur Corules in the world Inside the store is a grand particular is a picture of of fashion, as well as piano. On top of which Mayfair elegance. A statue graphic design and there are books such as We of Helmut Lang expresses publishing. can be heroes, London club Johansson’s fascination Contributors to Fair land; Stockholm new, with sculpture, as well as Magazine were Tennessee Warhol photographs, as customers are invited to Williams (American play well as books about William enjoy a roof garden. writer), W.H. Auden Klein, Man Ray, Helmut (American poet), Jean Lang, etc. Paris Store: For the store Cocteau (writer) and Furthermore, artworks by in Paris Johansson and Salvador Dali. Katerina Jebb are hung on Fornell again redesigned Words: for the eyes and the the walls, as well as an old garage space and mind, unique, original, and paintings by interior turned into modern piece iconic painter Jeremiah of interior phenomenon. It Osaka Goodman. Their aim is is interesting to follow the ‘the magazine was to engage visitors in the fact that Acne’s team influencing the time, not stores with a little bit of always chooses to reflecting it’ left: William Wegman - Detail from Reading Two Books, 1971 right: Hans Bellmer - Dolls SWOT ANALYSIS
STRENGHTS WEAKNESSES
Very well established reputation as a The best brand in Sweden, which means ‘different’ and innovative brand no competitors on national level No online brand content Successfully established association of the Working with in house architect-different brand with high-end brands and culture and recognizable retail space Not very various social media Multidisciplinary approach, associated Good quality of the clothes matching their presence, mainly collections’ looks and with Acne Design and Acne Creative- well prices catwalk videos for example known within a broad creative society and Eclectic use of materials, custom defines their target audience developed fabrics and high attention to Sometimes the merchandise can be Well maintained reputation of integrity details and cuts considered as too quirky for ‘ordinary’ and mystery in the brand identity, which Stores in top 17 cities around the world people, which for me personally once makes them interesting to the public Good locations of the London stores, Not using conventional way of South Kensington and Dover Street, with again define their audience. It is not advertising, having their own magazine reaching different types of high-end for everybody as a tool to communicate their values to consumers the right people, it is seen as a good way Spaces in top shopping centres e.g. of establishing integrity and authenticity. Selfridges, Harrods, Liberty, etc. ‘Frankly, nutty decisions’ and ‘Shrewd the staff is represented with a very good business practices. image, as well as good knowledge and arty Very broad and successful cultural engaging atmosphere in store inspiration for collections, projects and Very nice packing, e.g. receipts in small pink collaborations envelops OPPORTUNITIES THREATS
Expanding their stockist with coun- Opportunity for saving the old Growing popularity of the so-called tries likes Italy or Middle East for consumers by still keeping a range of ‘contemporary’ market, which involves example affordable merchandise designer clothes on affordable prices.
Improving the online content of the Well known and well established brand including social media high-end brands, which lead the presence, but need to find a way to save market their brand values and identity, social media has the reputation of revealing Growing popularity of social media and secrets, so for Acne will be quite online branded content and its main interesting to work on their Social use for promotion by other brands media in order to engage more, but not to reveal too much Compeptitors with longer stockists
Opportunity for developing of an even better product, better quality and design details, which will place Acne on a higher level in the industry. This will be an opportunity for attracting more consumers.
BY ILONA ANGELOVA
In order to understand why different to was about reflecting real life, Acne is so different, this book women in order to empower mostly seen in the work of will provide analyses of three them and allow them to stand Corinne Day and Teller for other brands - Celine, JW for their aspirations. Perhaps example. For me this is what Anderson and Alexander because personally Philo says put closer the vision of Acne Wang, also considering them she often feels insecure and I and Celine. The idea about as Acne competitors. The can say her designs are a way remaining real and honest; analyses will attempt to draw to secure herself and women it is about saying the truth. the difference between the who follow her. The adverts suggest integrity brands’ identities. Phoebe Philo is a mother of in the way the model Daria three children. The way she Werbowy is shot with a lack Starting with Celine, it is deals with personal life and of make-up; she looks obvious that there are her position at Celine has amazingly beautiful and similarities in the design been an inspiration for many comfortable in her natural aesthetics of both brands, women. Her lifestyle re- skin. Teller’s technique of which are silhouettes flects what Celine as a brand over-exposure makes images inspired by androgyny. Both stands for. This is a brand for light and full of life which designers add a bit of a twist the real woman. Philo says gives them kind of when designing their that Celine for her is also ‘a simplicity and brings them collections. Phoebe Philo says real life.’ She says: ‘I hope closer to reality. that ‘she likes androgyny in women identify with me, It is not surprising that for her clothes, in the face of because I identify with them. the last couple of years we the models wearing these I am a woman living in a very mostly see the face of clothes and even in their real world. I have Werbowy in Celine’s body language’. The responsibilities at work and campaigns. Looking at her designer also shares her at home, dealing everyday personality, it is easy to see fascination with menswear with trying to get everybody’s that she really fits the idea and explains the inspiration needs met.’ Philo also says about a representation of the she finds in the idea of that ‘she does not like clothes ‘the real woman.’ First having limits. For her, imposing themselves on considering she is now over menswear is about limits. It women- they are to be used in 30, it make a ‘real and strong is true that men usually have real life.’ woman’, with a lot of life a set uniform and for her Both Celine and Acne Studios experience. The model also there is something liberating embody the idea of integrity had a few years away from in not having too many in a different ways. To give an the industry and assumably choices. Philo says that this is example for Celine, it is well the designer can see some something women are re- expressed in its advertising crossing points in their lives’ sponding to in her work. Her campaigns. In order to stories. Philo (39) also says designs are also a bit strange, understand their campaigns, that she is looking forward to interesting and different. She it is important to look at being older. She is has a Parisian classical chic Juergen Teller. He has been interested in older women aesthetic. Celine is very the photographer of all Celine than her, their way of classical, but at the same time campaigns since 2008, when thinking and living. However, has the twist. As the designer Philo was appointed as in their campaigns they show says, ‘she has a natural Creative Director of the a woman that “they know ability of making things to brand. He as a photographer and understand, who is real look a bit fucked.’ It could be and Celine as a brand have to them.” seen as empowering, which is this idea about the natural In terms of innovation, Lulu pretty close to liberating, this aesthetics of appearances of Kennedy, a founder of Yves Saint Laurent’s value. the 1990s. It was time when Fashion East, says that Celine There is a connection between kitsch and established Phoebe was a ‘game-changer’. Fall/Winter 2013 her and Johansson in the stereotypes about beauty In Parisian fashion, which is way they both give something were rejected in fashion. It well-known with taking its “opening up a wider discussion about women’s lives, which reaches beyond fashion.”
inspiration from history and which people go to buy Facebook page is actually a traditional notions of chic, specifically, such as the fan page, which was Celine’s creative director ‘Luggage tote bag’, the updated for the last time on addresses femininity and crepe jumpsuit or the fluid the 20th of March 2012, modernity by “opening up a wide-legged trousers. This is almost two years ago. It wider discussion about something, which makes it might be assumed that for a women’s lives, which stronger than Acne in terms luxury, classical and reaches beyond fashion.” of products. sophisticated brand like Her designs are very fresh, Celine, its women are unconventional, modern and When it comes to website supposed to be professionals, perfectly classic. There is and social media comparison, with busy lifestyles, who do something about her and the Acne Studios has more online not really spend much time way she delivers her vision. presence than Celine. Celine’s on Facebook. For Acne their Philo manages very well to website is quite similar, Facebook, Twitter and combine “classicism and simple and clean Instragram are purely badness, fantasy and aesthetically, as well as developed for promotional craziness.” For her the laconic (short-spoken). They purpose and show collections consistent threats are the both focus on collections and collaboration projects. fabric, silhouettes and presentations, catwalk show constant learning. In terms of videos and look books, as well For example, Philo says that fabric, it sounds a bit limiting, as archives, stores, etc. she does not want images of but this is what inspires her. Differently, Acne has the her collections, to be upload She focuses on fabric option for online shopping online straightforward the developing, exploring and directly from the website, catwalk shows. She says: creating. where Celine has a separate “Content for the sake of A place for comparison one, which sells only the more content is devalued between Acne and Celine brand’s classics bags such content,” and the designer also finds Philo’s words that as luggage tote bags and the explains that collections are there is always a sense of luggage phantom bag. This for stores and to be bought, street culture in her work, might be considered as Ce- the communication should be something also seen in Acne line’s disadvantage from a useful for the consumers and as a jeans brand. What could commercial point of view. posting photos of something, be more street cultural than Celine does not have an which cannot buy for six
jeans? Celine has established Instragram, Twitter or months, is not useful.
Fall/Winter 2013 Fall/Winter Celine its classics as a brand, pieces Tumblr account. Its PROJECT
ISA GENZKEN RETROSPECTIVE
Isa Genzken, a German artist Jerry I. Speyer and Katherine terms of culture born in 1948 is believed to G. Farley, The Andy Warhol preferences. They both speak be arguably one of the most Foundation for the Visual to self-aware, high-cultured important and influential Arts, as well as Lonti Ebers. and professional women, female artists of the past (men) in general. However, thirty years. This exhibition It could be said that Celine’s Celine is focus on the ‘real’ is the first retrospective of her values as a brand are very woman and her life (creative diverse body of work in an well communicated by this industry or finance), Acne’s American museum, as well as project. It is seen as an consumers are more quirky, the largest to date. attempt to support great open-minded and creative. Genzken’s more recent women and their work. The assemblage sculptures, which association that the brand Isa Genzken is not an includes not only three- makes with art and in obvious choice when it comes dimensional work but also particular, institutions like to a fashion’s collaborations; paintings, photographs, MOMA and Andy Warhol however, it reflects the collages, drawings, artist’s Foundation is something, authentic approach of Celine. books, films, and public which Acne Studios would do The artist is in her 60s now sculptures—is still largely too. The difference in the and tends to shop, as Philo unknown America. messages of the two brands says ‘at charity shops and are seen in the reflection of makes multilayered, The exhibition is made their consumers. The profiles challenging art that is hard to possible by Celine, as well as of Acne and Celine’s women categorize’ Major support is provided by are perhaps different, but (forum.thefashionspot.com). The Modern Women’s Fund, they are also overlapping in ‘Fashion for me is about living, being stimulated. It’ about finding JW ANDERSON something new and yes, ultimately not compromising’
JONATHAN ANDERSON
A very young brand, which the clouds and does not con- in, even when it comes to very is on schedule for LFW since sider himself as an reality of Phoebe Philo. February 2011, however, it artist; neither does he has been one to watch since consider fashion as an art Anderson strongly believes in then. Anderson arouses furore form. He sees it more as an the power of not and confuses people with his archetype, where you are compromising. He says, quite challenging designs for trying to build a silhouette, ‘When I was at Prada, they both men and women, which which itself is very similar to did not compromise, and it is seem that they almost building. In fashion designes the most powerful and blended both genders one is trying to create a new incredible brand, because together. The idea behind structure, a new proportion, a ultimately, they have this is more deeply situated new shape. What drives him integrity.’ From this than just being on the surface is the idea of finding some- statement it is clear that for of playing with gender thing new in terms of the different identities of the identities. It is about the proportion. three brands, integrity lies relationship between the two somewhere in their centre. genders. As the designer says: His biggest advantage is that ‘I love the relationship he stands for fashion design From the advertising between men and to evolve and in order to do campaigns of JW Anderson, women-that coupling, men so, Jonathan is open to the it seems that the brand is for with men, women with idea of wrongness and under- young women, who want to women and women with stands that evolvution does experiment and feel men, that kind of mixture of not happen, without criticism. different, as well as to be real sex and sharing of garments. Something Johansson is and are not afraid of making It’s about wearing clothes concerned about. mistakes. Celine on the other that tell a story and an hand is about the real emotion, it’s not just about The biggest similarity woman, who faces the real gender.’ between the two designers is life. However, isn’t it in the fact that they both do experimenting part of real Purely aesthetically, the not look at designing clothes life? Yes, it is, but it is just a brand is build on the idea of on a first place-commercially. different aspect. It is possi- androgyny. Anderson Moreover, they both try to es- ble to assume that the young personally says that he thinks cape from it, considering it as woman of Anderson would the brand will always be a wrong approach. The same wear Celine too. These types J.W. Anderson about androgyny. Within the as Celine and Acne, of girls are strong and the Spring/Summer 2014 brand of Anderson, it is seen Jonathan believes that de- empowerment of Celine is as a way of exploring new sign is about contribution, ‘in something, which suite them worlds. It is seen as a way of a weird way-giving.’ He sees as a brave and ambitious experimenting with new ideas the idea about a brand, as a young women. and pushing fashion design to space, where people want to move, as he feels nothing new dream in. Furthermore, Ce- has been done recently. line and Acne also create this kind of spaces, where their The designer does not fly in consumers are free to dream JAMIE HAWKENSWORTH
Jamie Hawkesworth photographs situations that display everyday realities. From the post-industrial north, to train stations and suburban estates - he plucks his subjects from the street and places them into the prescribed context of fashion. (Taken from inconversationwith.biz)
‘It’s the simplicity that I really love about taking portraits like this and maybe that keeps things honest.’
To capture the reality and to save the moment of unpredictability of ideas, the photographer usually goes off to places like Liverpool or Newcastle. The idea is to explore, to meet new people and to feel different on a new place. For him everything shot in London, feels predictable. His ideas and vision are important for these analyses, because he is a photographer, who works closely with Acne Studios and JW Anderson.
The two brands are situated as different within the market, each of them has its own values. However, the two brands need people with different vision, people who are trying to get away from the commercial production and who are trying to create something new with a different point of view.
The love for exploration and challenge of Jamie fits very well the visions of Jonny Johansson and Jonathan Anderson. Working with this kind of photographer, they secure themselves to have unpredictable and non-commercial result in order to promote their brands in an appropriate way for them. Alexander Wang is another connection between music the night before. very young designer with a and fashion is very important. strong vision and He says that so much of what For me is fascinating how fast authentic approach. The happened in fashion, can be his clean and simple vision business of the brand is run or should be attributed to became such a big thing. The by the Wang family. It is music. The idea about the idea of taking something very interesting the role, which concert is a big inspiration simple as the sweater and family plays when building about his catwalk shows. transforming into luxurious, the identity of a brand. For When he organises it, the stylish and different garment, example, Phoebe, mother of designer wants to bring this could be considered as three children, her lifestyle as excitement, the energy in the innovative. Something, which a mother and woman reflects room of the encore moment. is also seen in Acne, which very much what the brand started as a jeans brand and is about. In addition, Acne is Music and in particular elevated itself to a certain run by a creative collective, hip-hop is strongly reflected level of luxury. After Wang’s however, they are not in the T-Alexander Wang first show, even Diana Von relatives, the idea of campaigns. They highly Furstenberg asks him to building this ‘creative associate the brand with the create a sweater for her and universe’ by certain people, hip-hop scene, by featuring later she becomes his mentor. build them as a family within for example Azalia Banks. Wang also receives a huge the house of the brand. Singers like Rihanna are support from Anna Wintour, often seen performing at which automatically lifts the The first collection of Wang’s afterparties, shop young designer to very ma- Alexander Wang was shown openings and catwalk shows. ture and high-level of in 2007 and since then took It is a successful way to thinking and appreciation. ALEXANDER WANG the best of it and develops it communicate and promote with each following collection. what T-Wang is about and Wang says he created T by Aesthetically, Wang also has make it popular very Alexander Wang with the this slouchy; casually cool quickly among consumers, idea to provide people with Autumn/Winter 2013 ‘downtown style’, a mixture whom culture is seen in what they need for everyday, of eighties, French chic and casual and sporty dressing. e.g. basic t-shirts. Apart from rock grunge. He elevates the This associations set Wang Alexander Wang the brand, everyday, the idea of ease in apart from Acne, Celine and which casual chic can be worn his designs. Similarly to what JW Anderson, where the for a special evenings. Philo and Johansson do by three brands do not go so deep creating clothes which reflect into the concept of casual In addition to the campaign real life. clothing. However, the visual analyses, they are about the and design aesthetics of empowerment, which Wang However, Wang expresses Alexander Wang still have also gives to its consumers. this vision in a different way, many crossing points. The idea about sport might be by designing sportswear. seen as an attempt to speak He takes the sweatshirt for Inside Interview magazine: also to women with strong example; a garment made People quickly fell not only sense about themselves and for launging on the sofa and for Wang’s luxury refinement who does not look for a transforms it in something as and clean silhouettes but, conventional way to feel sexy he says ‘completely abstract’.’ more importantly, for his and desired, but casual, Similarly, to JW Anderson, Al- ability to bring a youthful simple and sporty reflects exander Wang has two impor- sensibility so playfully and their strong personalities. tant things for him. He wants flippantly into his pieces-as to tell a story with his work if an Alexander Wang girl and want to feel the could shop high-end and still connection with the get out of bed looking good customers. For Wang the in the clothes she had on BY ILONA ANGELOVA ALEXANDER WANG NEW YOIR FLAGSHIP
Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2014 by Steven Klein
Instalation 14
Alexander Wang worked with florist Jeff Leatham to create floating hydrangeas as an instalation of 3000 of them. Leathan previously created floating hydrangeas for the opening of the store in 2011, this collaboration is coincides with the stores 2-year anniversary.
The flagship store in New York is famous with its Cage installation, which every season features work by different artists or creative individuals. The idea behind every project is to reflect the inspiration of a current collection or different events associated with the brand. Visually, it is very artistic and creates gallery atmosphere, which places the in-store experience of its visitors on a higher level. It strongly engages them with the visual aesthetics of the brand, also creates the feeling of being part of something different every season stronger. It is also a way of Wang to maintain its image, to do different collaborations and to create his store as a place for art and fashion. Acne Studios is ‘lucky’ enough to be found by a team with already well-established reputation within the creative fields. The idea about Acne is born in a circle of creative people and this allowed them to promote themselves very quickly among influential individuals. All that a new brand needs in order to build its image quickly and efficiently is its aimed consumers to be A PIECE ON CONSUMERS influencers among the society.
From Johansson’s words ‘I work to have fun’, it seems like he plays a game. It feels as brand’s decisions are made on intuition, triggered by the instincts of the creative team. As Johansson says, ‘We knew as consumers that if we liked something we did not care if it was sweater, vintage or couture.’
As I said before Acne does not try to fit in any specific target consumer group, because he already is part of this culture of influential people, they just had to get them to wear it. They knew if they create something very good, it would sell. Acne’s ‘coolness’ is something, which comes from inside. As it was mentioned that looking at the person behind the company, people understand the brand. In other words, a brand has the personality of its creators; in a way we often hear ‘Andy Warhol is his art’. This allows them to experiment, be themselves and do what they believe in.
For their first denim trousers, Jonny says ‘The strategy was to get someone cool to wear it in front of our colleagues and it worked. Fashion insiders, graphic designers, filmmakers - hipster kids’ (people from Johansson’s surrounding wore the jeans.) Their aim was ‘the creative kids’ in Stockholm.
The creative director also says something very interesting and simple, which explains their price points and positioning on the marker and in people’s mind. He explains that for them the same consumer who was able to afford expensive garments was averse to buy from high-street labels. In addition, it is not because buying into the logo of a luxury label, but these people buy into an idea, quality and design, the story behind the brand and its authenticity. In other words - a different product with value. Originally, from Chichester, South West England, Antony Hegarty has become a significant figure in the New York avant-garde scene since Antony and the Johnsons won the Mercury music prize in 2005. The musician is a visual artist as well as a co-founder of the Future Feminist Foundation. As he says in an interview for the book Let’s start a pussy riot (2013) the term “Future Feminism” was first used as an attempt to describe the approach of four artists who he feels aligned with: Kembra Pfahler, Johanna Constantine and Bianca and Sierra Casady.
PRINT FEATURE TEXT BY ILONA ANGELOVA
ANTONY Coral The Cut Exhibition Sikkema Jenkins & Co 2013 ‘In the future, emotional and intuitive systems of human though will be considered as viable as rational systems ’
Antony’s biggest concern is with them, but speaks about making. about the ecological future of himself. our planet. He considers It proves that feminism’s time people’s way of making However, more important has not passed and that it has decisions on a biological level is the fact that he is able to not achieved its goals. and insists on the alarming understand the difference be- Women want more than need of ‘more oestrogen-based tween women and men’s ways participation in politics, thinking’ in the power of thinking. He says, ‘Soon voting on a ‘smokescreen of structures of our societies. scientists will have to admit fake moral issues like that the alleged gender abortion and gay rights.’ This Future Feminism does not neutrality of rationalism is is not enough, because have a manifesto. Antony kind of fallacy, that all of our meanwhile the real decisions sees the creative approach thoughts and approaches about the energy industry and to problems as a foundation are coloured by our the fate in nature are taken of the organisation. For the endocrine system.’ by corporations and lobbyists. hhe book Let’s start a pussy riot (2013) he says ‘It is about However, Antony faces the Perhaps it is that women are eyes wide open, hearts wide reality that people have been capable of taking care of their open, minds open…’ lost their fate in Mother planet using their maternal Antony has a dream of an Nature. The artist says that instincts? There is a lot to be artist to prompt a different from his conversations with said and done in relation to way of thought. He believes taxi drivers in New York, considering the future idea that as a life performer he is they all seem to think that about emotional and intuitive able to participate in ‘a real ‘the world is about to end.’ systems of human thinking to rewarding dialogue with the For him, to make work is to be considered as viable as world’, hope and to participate in the rational systems. evolution of our planet and of In an interview for the people, because masses are Antony has already received Guardian newspaper he says: discouraged of expressing support from leading art “ I have always realizing that meaningful opinions. foundations such as South people can imagine the Bank London, which asked collapse of ecosystem more He believes that one of the him to curate the Meltdown easily than they can leave things humanity needs in Festival in 2012. Fashion capitalism.” order to survive is a transfer designers such as Ricardo of power between men and Tisci from Givenchy placed Antony admits that as women. However, it is not a little letter on the chairs transgender person he has a about the economic equality of his guest entitled ‘Future different point of view about fought for in the feminism of Feminism.’ experiencing of masculinity the 1960s. This is about and femininity than a normal women ‘getting on deck to His ideas will be discussed in person. However, he does not save nature itself’, where an interview for Acne Paper. Which River see himself as a spokesperson all these male structures of The Cut Exhibition of the transgender society. thinking failed because of Sikkema Jenkins & Co Antony has general solidarity aggression in decision- 2013 O N L I N E F E A T U R E
ANTONY HEGARTY ‘I have been always realizing that people can imagine the collapse of ecosystem more easily then they can leave capitalism.’ TEXT BY ILONA ANGELOVA
Antony Hegarty is a British gelis says about him, ‘like impressions of people’s con- born, transgender avant-gar- Joseph Beuys, Antony’s work cerns about where the world dist of our times. He is the originates in personal experi- is going. For example from his front singer of the band An- ence yet it also addresses uni- conversations with taxi driv- tony and The Johnsons and a versal artistic or social ideas ers in New York, all of them visual artist. Antony is also a and poetically suggests the seem to think that ‘the world co-founder of The Future Fem- healing potential of art.’ is about to end’. inist Foundation. This term is Much of his work provokes However, he and his collabo- used to describe the approach cross-gender identification, rators, the artist Kebra Pfahl- of four artists, whom he feels in a way to reestablish a zone er, say for the book For Let’s aligned with: Kembra Pfahl- of true experimentation and start a pussy riot (2013), that er, Johanna Constantine and fluidity. However, more im- they have to change the world. Bianca and Sierra Casady. portant is the fact that as Antony wants to move this Antony’s biggest concern is transgendered, he is able to world forward, to do some- about the ecological future of understand the difference be- thing great and reverse all of our planet. He considers peo- tween women and men’s ways the failed male structures of ple’s way of making decisions of thought. He says, ‘Soon sci- thinking, all the aggression in on a biological level and in- entists will have to admit that decision-making. He believes sists on the need of more ‘oes- the alleged gender neutrality that in the future, emotional trogen-based thinking’ in our of rationalism is kind of fal- and intuitive systems of hu- governance systems. lacy, that all of our thoughts man thought will be consid- An aim for participation is and approaches are coloured ered as workable as rational expressed in every aspect by our endocrine system.’ systems. of his work. Currently two Hegarty describes himself He says, ‘I have been always paintings of Hegarty are on as a dreamer, who dreams realizing that people can im- display at the Louvre in Paris about embracing the world agine the collapse of ecosys- as part of exhibition entitled around him, when the rest tem more easily then they can ‘Living rooms’. His drawings are convinced, that paradise leave capitalism.’ are curated along with works awaits them in death. He The avant-gardist has al- by Paul Thek, Robert Mapple- refers to Stephen Hawking, ready received support from throphe, Kiki Smith and oth- who said that ‘our destiny lies institutions like South Bank ers. The exhibition continues in the colonization of planets’, London, which invited him to from November 14, 2013 to but Antony sees our planet curate Meltdown Festival last February 17, 2014. and its biodiversity as a real year. Antony has also brought Hegarty creates his art from frontier for a dream creation. inspiration to fashion design- found images, scraps and The artist simply believes ers like Ricardo Tisci from fragments. He washes, burns, that the future of our earth Givenchy for his fall 2013 cuts and sews them in order should be put in female hands. collection. The designer sup- to remove ‘the bad’ from them Humans need to change their ported the idea by leaving a and restore dignity to the rest way of thought towards the handwritten piece entitled of the landscape. For him, the empathetic system of inter- ‘FUTURE FEMINISM’ on use of found materials sym- acting with the world and each chair of his guests for bolize that the material is al- consider a little bit of emo- the catwalk show. Open Flower ready full of life. tionalism and intuition in the His ideas will be discussed in The Louvre, Paris James Elaine, a curator of approach of our governance. an interview for Acne Paper. Hammer Gallery in Los An- Antony shares his apocalyptic 2014 WHY ANTONY HEGARTY?
Antony Hegarty is a transsexual musician, artist and co-founder of a new movement in feminism today. This topic allows for a discussion around a person, who is different and has unconventional ideas about the world. The idea came from Johansson’s words in relation to Acne’s collaboration with Candy magazine. He says that when he designs, he has always been interested in blurring the lines between men and women’s clothes and what happens when you shift the things a little bit.
This inspirited two features around the subject of transgendernism and diversity. However, this kind of a topic is something, which is also very relevant today.
Furthermore, Antony Hegarty deserves to be looked at by Acne, because he fulfils the brand’s ambition to be different, innovative and interesting.The features had the aim to show a successful transgendered person, and in particular Hegarty has very avant-garde way of thought and his biggest concerns are the problems of the planet today.
The artist and his vision about the ‘Future Feminism’ is something, which makes sense to people’s future way of living and it is an idea, which deserves to be considered. In the concept of Acne, which tries to be ahead of its time, as well as looking at the past, Hegarty could be an interesting person to looked at, because his ideas are provocative, innovative and futuristic.
The features are written as close as possible to the tone of voice of Acne Paper, which was already considered as very intelligent and profound. The creative team always tries to put the ideas in a very deep context, making references to different parts of culture. These features relate Hegarty to different collaborators of him, individuals from the art and music scenes, as well as fashion designers and art institutions. The aim was to show him as a person and transgendered, as well as his vision and how they are represented through his work.
FUTURE FEMINISM BY ILONA ANGELOVA handwritten piece Antony Hegart Givenchy A/W 13 B O A R D 1 PINTEREST
BY ILONA ANGELOVA
As it was analysed before, Acne is a fashion The idea was to create a Pinterest board brand, which does not rely on conventional about great individuals, inspired by the means of communication to promote itself. fascination of Acne with people and their Moreover, the use of social media today, for personalities. Furthermore, the idea about business or personal, tends to reveal a lot the quotes came from a personal association about people’s personalities. However, it is a of them with being very inspiring. These two personal choice, how far and close one will ideas put together created an inspiration allow society to view his/her work/life. Acne board with quotes by individuals, which Acne has created the mysterious image about itself Studios admires. The easiest place to find and the conventional use of social media these people is Acne Paper, as a document might be considered as too obvious and which collected all of the brand’s inspiration revealing for the brand promotion. and aspirations. However, the best content for a brand’s online presence would be a contentment created by It aimed to create images, which focus on the the company itself. Acne is part of a big group quotes, as well as to represent Acne’s work. of creative companies, so ideally for Pinterest The idea behind hiding faces of the people or it would be appropriate if the images are all the use of transparent colourful paper is to put through the prism of the brand, which create mystery, simply to hide parts of the means created by the brand. pages of the magazine, and to change colour, in order not to show and say too much. People would love to see different images of However, their visual aesthetics need other companies, art, music, etc. which the improvement. brand associates itself with, but Acne needs to find the write way to reveal a little bit of The second board is entitled ‘sculpture’. It its work and engage more with people. This is was inspired by the idea of Acne’s team to important because the use of digital and share books, knowledge and inspiration social media is growing every day and for within its stores. The second board focuses on fashion brands is essential to keep sculpture, because according to the research themselves up-to-date. it is one of biggest fascinations of the creative director. The artists chosen are mixture of The first board ‘collection of words’ is an nationalities, age and styles. This aimed to experimentation, which had the aim to show the variety of people Acne’s team looks produce images, which reflect Acne’s at. For example, these are contemporary identity. The use of Pinterest and social Swedish and British artists, as well as Carl B O A R D 2 media in general, should be something, which Milles, who is a Swedish sculptor from the suggests the brand’s broad cultural 20th century. inspirations, but at the same time does not reveal too much. The aim is to promote values, but not completely reveal them. On the other hand, a look at the very basic ideas of marketing could explain it better. It is generally accepted that humans have needs - physical, social and individual. Otherwise, marketing is about creating wants and demands according to these needs. Ideally, its ambition is to impact the consumers’ choice of a brand, based on their needs. Its traditional communication tools are advertising and commercials.
In this vein of though the question is ‘what is the ‘added’ value to the Acne’s product?’
Buying Acne seems like an engagement with a broad creative universe. It is a fashion brand born from an unconventional company, which automatically makes it special and different. The big inspiration from Warhol and his Factory makes metaphorically associations of the jeans brand with the whole idea behind pop art. Similarly to how Andy Warhol took the most mainstream objects from consumerism culture and transformed it into an art movement, which continues to influence people in many creative fields today - the same association with Acne and its creative team could be made. They started by producing jeans- a symbol of the street, of the rebellious new generation.
However, very successfully Acne lifted the idea of a jeans brand to a very high level within the industry. Now the brand has an image of strong vision and aesthetics, luxury in terms of ideas, innovation, authenticity, quality of the design, stores and collaborations. Acne twisted the perception of a jeans brand and made to be accepted as a high-end one.
Acne does not use traditional marketing to promote itself. This is one of the most important aspects of this conclusion, because totally refraining traditional marketing communications * is a unique approach, which leads to many other different aspects, which define the brand. It seems that the things Acne does are and will always be unconventional and unexpected. Schiller defines it as a ‘Branding by doing’ in which the focus is on the product. This was a conscious choice of the brand from the beginning, when due to financial recourses,Acne had to choose between investing in advertising or in products. By the time this has created the Conclusion strong image of the brand to have a unique product, which speaks for itself. According to Suhrab Lachin (Credit Manager responsible for the Human Resource Management, Stockholm office) Acne does not aim to create a specific image. Acne stands for ‘Don’t talk about yourself too much, do something that embodies your “Ambition to Create Novel Expression”, and it continuously seeks new ways of expressions, brand and that people want to participate in’ which is shown in the research above by examples of its collaborations with individuals like Katerina Jebb and Luis Venegas. In this way, the brand maintains its surrounding ‘air of - Johansson coolness’ (Daniel Bjork, Swedish journalist) by never being considered as conventional and ‘being on the edge regarding new thinking.’ (source: student primary research and project online) This quote embraces the conclusion about Acne Studios’ identity and its communication Acne has created an image, which appeals to a specific target group of non-conformists, who strategies. However, it aims to start by approaching the question from a bit farer. share the unique values and associations of the brand. Its recipe includes integrity and In order to sell fashion today, the functionality of a garment is not enough to make it stand mysticism, modernism, which also looks at the past, as well as timeless themes mainly out in the market. Clothes, and subsequently the fashion industry, altered and complicated expressed in the Acne paper. its purposes and meanings in the 14th century along with the evolving of the city. Acne Studios and Acne Paper can also be described as independent with an intention to be In today’s highly competitive fashion industry, the product needs to have ‘added’ value. This confident, strong and individualistic in terms of personal expression. Functionality plays an added value can be created through telling the story of the companies’ origins and more important role where the focus is on lifestyle, and translated into the product. Remembering importantly making sure this story remains consistent. The aim is to create a loyal and the words of Johansson: trustful relationship between the consumers and the brand, as well as among the employees. ‘We did not want to be the next sweater brand’. It can be concluded that Acne has become more than a fashion brand.