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Acne Studios * ACNE STUDIOS * BRAND IDENTITY ANALYSIS BA HONS FASHION PR London College of Fashion Ilona Angelova Year 1 Katerina Jebb Self Portrait - 2003 Hans Bellmer The doll William Wegman Andre Kertesz In the dark a coat rack looks like a man- 1972 Benjamin Alexander Huseby Goodbye Johnny - Primal Scream Andrea Larsson Ten magazine - September 2011 Jack Pierson Andre Simeons Gallery (left) Angel Youth (right) Jamie Hawkesworth Benjamin Alexander Huseby Stills from Goodbye Johnny Angel music video for Primal Scream Mattias Karlsson Mattias Karlsson For Acne Paper THE LETTER The pages of this book are a written and visual analysis, which have the aim to illustrate understanding of the world of the fashion brand Acne Studios. It looks at the different creative individuals with whmo the brand has collaborated with through the years. The book looks at selected campaigns, collaborations and collections and represents the works by single images on pages, in order to visually engage and capture the values of Acne Studios’ creative team. The analyses are based on the concept - look at the brand’s surrounding in order to understand the creative director and the brand from inside. The book is created as a magazine, where flipping through the pages instead finding adverts as a beginning, it provides visuals of the work of artists, photographers and stylists involved in Acne’s work. This idea is based on the idea of ‘tell me who your friends are and I will tell you who you are.’ It believes that showing people’s work gives a visual experience of their personalities, visual aesthetics and values. This helps the attempt to understand what it is about Acne, which makes it so unique in the fashion industry. It also provides the reader with two main analyses, which focus on the values of the brand. They are entitled The Story and Acne Paper. Here the publication is seen as one of the most important aspects of understating Acne’s identity. The magazine is their unconventional way to promote (advertise) the brand and its analysis gives an opportunity for insightful research about Acne itself. They are followed by writings on Acne’s collaborations: artist Katerina Jebb, who is the brand’s most recent collaborator and Luis Venegas, editor of Candy magazine. The analyses see the importance of associating the brand with innovative individuals, while building its image as an innovator itself. Looking at Candy magazine and its collaboration with Acne Studios gave the opportunity to explore the culture phenomena of transsexuality and its impact on fashion today. This controversial topic also inspired the print and online trend features written as possible content in Acne Paper. The two features are dedicated to Antony Hegarty and his ideas as a transgendered musician, artist and co-founder of The Future Feminism Foundation. Katerina Jebb In order to illustrate understating of the brand, the book also contains SWOT and CHANEL PERFUM WITH RAW MEAT 1997 Competitor analysis. The aim of the SWOT analysis is to represent Acne itself, as well as the analyse of its competitors is important aspect of understating the brand’s way to stand out of the crowd. I have also created two Pinterest boards, which believe to answer the brand vision about its use of social media channels. As an end of this journey is a written piece as a conclusion, which aims to sum up my understanding of the broad cultural influences of the brand, its values and vision. Ilona Angelova / BA Fashion PR CONTENT The Story-Ambition to Create Novel Expression William Wegman-Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign Neoclassicism ACNE PAPER Katerina Jebb Katerina Jebb x Comme des Garson Acne Studios x Katerina Jebb Autumn/Winter 2023 13 OBJECT BY KATERINA JEBB FOR ACNE STUDIOS Spring/Summer 2014 and Autumn/Winter 2014 Autumn/Winter 2012 Hilma Af Klint Capsule Collection 2014 Acne Studios x Luis Venegas Candy Magazine ACNE STORES Swot Analysis Celine JW Anderson Alexander Wang Other competitors CONSUMERS Antony Hegarty-print feature Antony Hegarty-online feature Why Antony Hegarty? Pinterest Vincent Van De Wijngaard Conclusion Muse Magazine #33 Spring 2013 Daniel Silver Untitled (2008) Lucy Skaer. The white T-shirt - Acne project left: Jamie Hawkesworth right: Mattias Karlsson right: Katerina Jebb NEPENTHES 2010 left: Jack Pierson CONTACT DETAILS Ilona Angelova London College of Fashion BA Hons Fashion PR Year 1 Term 2 - March 2014 email: [email protected] telephone: 07887 3 999 32 Andy Warhol Photo Booth Self-Portrait, ca. 1963 right: Hilma Af Klimt Af Klimt right: Hilma The Ten Largest, No. 1 left:Daniel Carlsten Nowness left: Daniel Silver right: Stefan Bruggemann THE STORY ACNE ABMITION TO CREATE NOVEL EXPRESSION ‘‘ We loved everything about the Factory, how they looked like, and the way they did things - whether you were old or young didn’t matter.’’ JONNY JOHANSSON, CREATIVE DIRECTOR BY ILONA ANGELOVA Dannis Hopper, 1963 At the beginning it was team exists. The creative original meaning when they Andy Warhol and Interview director says: ‘We wanted to are put together in a magazine, as the creative be a creative entity, an mixture of different ideas director Jonnny Johans- eclectic universe.’ It is about and references. The final son says himself. This story the idea of having a place for image is produced solely to ‘‘It is not about delivering ideas and dreams, it is about is based on the fact that people to create art in many sell people something they making them physical and that is a big challenge... Acne pop artist’s multidisciplinary different ways and everyone have already had and which is more than a clothing company’’ approach to art serves as to be a part of the creation has been recycled many an inspiration to Acne’s of something valuable and times. Avoiding this, Acne JONNY JOHANSSON founders and is seen as a meaningful. has positioned itself as an fundamental aspect of the innovator within the building the image of the Through referencing industry. brand. It has the aim to interviews with the creative draw different references director, it is evident that The brand remains honest to Andy’s philosophy and Johansson and his team aim to its consumers by actual start explaining the brand’s to create something “novel activities, collaborations and vision. with integrity.” Honesty unique inspirations, which is considered as one of the build its identity. This is In 1996 in Stockholm the biggest values of the brand, considered as the right way creative team of Acne was and when a bit of mystery to make people believe you formed as a digital-film- (one of Warhol’s strongest who you are and what you design-creative collective. personal characteristics) is stand for. Furthermore, it The brand was born from added, creates Acne’s distinguishes Acne from its the idea of its creators to formula of playing the game competitors and supports ‘dip their hands into every in the industry. This its vision and aim to inspire possible pocket of art and statement could be proved its consumers. However, the culture’ (Dazed). Having by their refusal to have brand does not have a said that, it is mostly classical advertising priority to explain reflected by Acne Paper, as campaigns. It could be everything to everyone. well as the collaborations analysed as an attempt to Similarly, to the way in of the brand with different save their integrity. which Warhol is described artists and today’s culture People tend not to believe in as ‘a person is his art’, the influencers. Similarly to the adverts. There is a created creative director of Acne has large range of Warhol’s art impression about become his brand, for whom works, Acne Studios advertising in general; that is very important not to provides its consumers not there is always something reveal and explain each only with innovative hidden behind an advert, action he makes, because it clothing, but with unique which aims to manipulate is been taken out of his cultural experiences and people’s purchasing personal life. inspirations. decisions. This is because the product is always shown This is a story without an Citing Johansson who says in its full magnificence. end; it is just the beginning that at the beginning they of the journey through Acne ‘loved everything about The There is this moment of Studios’ brand identity. Factory, how they looked kitsch and superficiality like, and the way they did in today’s post-modernistic things-whether you were approach to fashion and its old or young didn’t matter’ visual language. Too many (Interview magazine). A references are taken and possible reference between mixed together. All the Warhol’s factory and Acne’s references tend to lose their Below is an example of one from just a few Acne Studios’ advertising campaigns. It is a “I’m a big fan of William Wegman’s work, its beauty, witty humour and collaboration with the artist William Wegman, who is famous for photographing his intelligence but also what it says about identity and culture. I always Weimaraners. The use of dogs, instead of conventional models for this adverting campaign, thought it would be interesting to work on a project together. The outcome speaks for itself. It could be read as an attempt to escape from classic advertising, as well as to create an image of the brand as a supporter of art and culture. In general, a dog is seen as is beyond all expectation.” honest and man’s best friend. There is something very grabbing and innocent in the eyes of JONNY JOHANSSON (www.itsnicethat.com) these Weimaraners. all photos: William Wegman Acne Studios Spring/Summer 2013 Acne was founded as a jeans brand; however, it lifted itself very quickly to a high market level within the industry.
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