The Fatal Gift of Beauty: The Italies of British Travellers An Annotated Anthology

Edited by Manfred Pfister

Amsterdam - Atlanta, GA 1996 Contents

I. Introduction 1 1. "Theoria: To Go Abroad to See the World" 3 2. Anthologizing 8 3. Surveying the Anthology 15 4. Thanks and Acknowledgements 20

II. Illustrations 23 Descriptive List of Illustrations 58

III. Anthology 61 1. Crossing the and Arriving 63 1.1 Fynes Moryson: Four Routes across the Alps 63 1.2 John Evelyn: A Dangerous Voyage to 'the Peculiar Joys of Italy' 64 1.3 Richard Lassels: 'The Several Ways by which a Man May Go into Italy' 65 1.4 John Reresby: Crossing from the Country of the Grisons 65 1.5 Horace Walpole: Tory and the Wolf 65 1.6 Thomas Gray: Tory and the Wolf Once More 66 1.7 John Boyle, Earl of Corke and Orrery: The Passage over Mount Cenis - Less Dreadful than Supposed 67 1.8 Samuel Sharp: The Chairmen of Mont Cenis 68 1.9 William Beckford: Entering'Long-Desired Italy' 69 1.10 Peter Beckford: Feeling like Hannibal 70 1.11 Samuel Rogers: The New Simplon Pass 72 1.12 Aldous Huxley: Wanderbirds and Car-Drivers 73 1.13 Jonathan Keates:'Getting There' 75

2. II Giro d'ltalia and Other Routes 78 2.1 Roger Ascham: 'Inglese Italianato, e un Diavolo Incarnato' 78 2.2 Henry Wotton: Diplomatic Advice for 79 2.3 John Milton: A Poet and a Puritan Doing the Tour of Italy 80 2.4 John Evelyn: as the TSfon Ultra1 81 2.5 Thomas Gray: "The Travels of T:G:Geht' 81 2.6 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu: Inundations of Boys and Governors 83 2.7 Edward Gibbon: To Naples and Back 83 V 2.8 Tobias Smollett: The Giro: A School for Coxcombs 85 2.9 James Boswell: The Giro: A Religious and Erotic Quest 86 2.10 Joseph Baretti: Advice to Go off the Beaten Tracks 91 2.11 Samuel Rogers:'Am I in Italy?' 91 2.12 John Cam Hobhouse, Baron Broughton: A Shakespearean Pilgrimage 92 2.13 Lord Byron: 'The First Rush' after the Napoleonic Wars 92 2.14 Thomas Moore: An Epistle to End All Epistles from Italy 93 2.15 Anna Brownell Jameson: St. Peter's 'Metamorphosed into a Mere Theatre' 93 2.16 Marguerite Blessington: The English Community at Naples 94 2.17 Walter Savage Landor: Outrages Commited Against British Subjects in and Other Parts of the Levant 94 2.18 Frances Trollope: 'The General Character of English Travellers' 97 2.19 Frances Trollope: Tourist Watching 98 2.20 John Ruskin: Italy - A Book, not a Dream 99 2.21 Robert Browning: 'Italy' Graved inside the Heart 99 2.22 Francis M. Elliot: Romans and Tourists in the Forum 100 2.23 John Addington Symonds: Off the Beaten Track 101 2.24 Vernon Lee: The South 102 2.25 Norman Douglas: Travelling by Rail 'in this Land of Multiple Civilizations' 104 2.26 Percy Lubbock: An English Expatriate Lady 105 2.27 Anthony : 'Hardly any English left in Tivoli' 105 2.28 Charles Lister: 'Perche Calitri' - Why Calitri, why Italy? 106 2.29 Richard Holmes: In the Footsteps of Percy Bysshe Shelley 107 2.30 Lisa St. Aubin de Teran: Settling in Sestri Levante Ill 2.31 Duncan Fallowell:'The Spine of Europe1 114 2.32 Jonathan Keates: In Praise of Emilia 115

3. On the Road: The Hazards of Travelling 118 3.1 Fynes Moryson: Down the Brentaby Boat 118 3.2 Fynes Moryson: The Guiles of Vetturini 119 3.3 Fynes Moryson: Making Friends with the Natives 119 3.4 Edward Herbert: The Milk of Human Kindness 120 3.5 Richard Lassels: The Dangers fromBanditi and Gabella 121 3.6 John Reresby: Being Held up by a Prostitute and the Plague 121 3.7 Thomas Gray: Journeying from to 122

VI 3.8 Samuel Sharp: "The Horrors of an Italian Journey' 123 3.9 JohnChetwode Eustace: The Via Appia: Then and Now 124 3.10 Edward John Trelawny: A Funeral Pyre for Shelley 125 3.11 Mariana Starke: The Hardships of Travelling in the South 126 3.12 William Hazlitt: Travelling with Books 127 3.13 William Hazlitt: 'Imaginary Bands of Brigands' 128 3.14 William Hazlitt: Beware of the Vetturini! 128 3.15 Walter Scott: A Notorious Case of Brigantaggio 129 3.16 Richard Keppel Craven: An Innkeeper Leagued with Banditti 130 3.17 Frances Trollope: Crossing the Magra 131 3.18 Charles Dickens: Doing Mantua with a Cicerone 131 3.19 Charles Dickens: The Osteria of La Scala 134 3.20 Edward Lear: How to Obtain Milk for Breakfast in 135 3.21 John Addington Symonds: The English Italophile Alienated from the 135 3.22 VernonLee: The Motor-Car and the Genius Loci 136 3.23 Aldous Huxley:'A Night at Pietramala' 137

4. The Perception of Otherness 142 4.1 The Classical Heritage 142 4.1.1 Fynes Moryson: The Cave of the Sibyl of Cuma 142 4.1.2 Thomas Coryate: and Mantua 143 4.1.3 Joseph Addison: The Antiquities near Naples 143 4.1.4 George Berkeley: A Pilgrimage to the Birthplace of Horace 144 4.1.5 Horace Walpole: The Excavation of Herculaneum 145 4.1.6 Tobias Smollett: The Venus de Medicis 146 4.1.7 James Boswell: 'Sublime and Melancholy Emotions' 146 4.1.8 William Beckford: Viewing the Antiquities the Non-scientific Way... 147 4.1.9 Hester Lynch Piozzi: Reflections on the Coliseum 148 4.1.10 John Chetwode Eustace: Virgil's Tomb: 'A Lurking Place of Sbirri'.. 149 4.1.11 Percy Bysshe Shelley: The Thermae of Caracalla 150 4.1.12 Anna Brownell Jameson: The Venus de Medicis and an English Esthete 151 4.1.13 William Hazlitt: The Venus de Medicis: , 'An Exquisite Marble Doll', 151 4.1.14 Frances Trollope: Projects for Pompeii and Herculaneum 152 4.1.15 Henry George Lewes: 'Hideous Obscenity' in Pompeian Bedrooms.. 153 4.1.16 George Gissing: Lunch at Sybaris 154 VII 4.1.17 D.H.Lawrence:'The Life-Loving Etruscans' 155 4.1.18 Charles Lister: Tracing the Appian Way 157 4.1.19 Fiona Pitt-Kethley: Into the Underworld 160

4.2 Arts and Learning 163 4.2.1 Fynes Moryson: First News of Michelangelo 163 4.2.2 Thomas Coryate: A Venetian Playhouse 163 4.2.3 Henry Wotton:'The Strangest Piece of News' 164 4.2.4 John Evelyn: Gli Uffizi, 'that Renowned Ceimeliarcha' 164 4.2.5 John Evelyn: The Vatican Library 165 4.2.6 John Evelyn: An English Student at Padua University 166 4.2.7 John Raymond: Vicenza and Palladio 167 4.2.8 Richard Lassels: Academies of Wit 167 4.2.9 Francis Mortoft: 'The Sweet Singer and Eunuch Bonaventura' 168 4.2.10 Joseph Addison: The Ambrosian Library in Milan 168 4.2.11 Joseph Addison: Italian Poetry and Comedy 168 4.2.12 Joseph Spence: Libraries 'That a Lady might see with Pleasure' 169 4.2.13 Joseph Spence: The Opera Season in Rome 170 4.2.14 Joseph Spence: Musical Orphans in '. 171 4.2.15 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu: Learned Women Appreciated 172 4.2.16 Tobias Smollett: Finding Fault with Raphael and Michelangelo 172 i 4.2.17 Samuel Sharp: The Prejudice of Italian Enthusiasm for Music 173 4.2.18 Charles Burney: A Musical Accademia 174 4.2.19 Charles Burney: Where are the Castrati Castrated? 174 4.2.20 William Beckford: A Pilgrimage to Petrach's Tomb 175 4.2.21 Hester Lynch Piozzi: 'Divine Guercino' and the Scuola Bolognese....l76 4.2.22 Joseph Forsyth: Signora Fantastici and the Art of Improwisatori 177 4.2.23 Samuel Rogers: The Stanze of Raphael, a Fricassee of Frogs &Porcupine and the Opera 178 4.2.24 Percy Bysshe Shelley: Michelangelo Debunked 178 4.2.25 William Wordsworth: At 179 4.2.26 Mariana Starke: Perfect Decorum at the Scaladi Milano 179 4.2.27 William Hazlitt: At the Turin Opera House 180 4.2.28 William Hazlitt: In Praise of Guido Reni 180 4.2.29 Richard Keppel Craven: Prime Donne at Campobasso 181 4.2.30 Frances Trollope: An All-Italian Congress of Savants 183 4.2.31 Charles Dickens: Leonardo da Vinci's 'Last Supper' 184 VIII 4.2.32 Charles Dickens: Canovavs. Bernini 184 4.2.33 John Ruskin: Revising the Canon of 185 4.2.34 George E. Street: Giotto vs. Palladio 186 4.2.35 Janet Ross: The Pipe of Spring 188 4.2.36 John Addington Symonds: The Quest for Michelangelo 189 4.2.37 Aldous Huxley: 'The Greatest Picture in the World' 189 4.2.38 Charles Lister: Rudolph Valentino 192 4.2.39 Jonathan Keates: Orazio Gentileschi Rescued from Women's Studies 194

4.3 Religious Difference 197 4.3.1 Thomas Hoby: Jubilee Year in Rome 197 4.3.2 Anthony Munday: The English College in Rome 197 4.3.3 Henry Wotton: English Catholics in Italy - a Danger to English Travellers 198 4.3.4 Thomas Coryate: A Disputation with the Jews of Venice 199 4.3.5 William Lithgow: A Frolicsome Pilgrimage to Loreto 200 4.3.6 Edward Herbert: A Philosopher and the Inquisition 201 4.3.7 John Evelyn: Christmas in Rome 202 4.3.8 Richard Lassels: Loreto: "Nothing is Impossible to God' 202 4.3.9 Gilbert Burnet: "The Highest Pitch of Blasphemy' 203 4.3.10 Gilbert Burner: The Nuns of Venice 203 4.3.11 Gilbert Burnet: Catholicism and the Malaria 204 4.3.12 Joseph Addison: The Desolation in the Pope's Territories and the Genius of the Roman Catholic Religion 205 4.3.13 Joseph Addison: 'One of the Most Bungling Tricks that I Ever Saw'. 206 4.3.14 Tobias Smollett: The Most Damnable Transgression 207 4.3.15 Joseph Baretti: A Plea for Tolerance 207 4.3.16 Hester Lynch Piozzi: The Catacombs and the Relics 209 4.3.17 Samuel Rogers: Elegant Ceremonies 209 4.3.18 Lady Sidney Morgan: The Oxen of the Church 210 4.3.19 Anna Brownell Jameson: Sympathizing with Superstition 210 4.3.20 Mariana Starke: Holy Thursday in Rome: How to See it All 211 4.3.21 William Hazlitt: Pilgrims to Rome 211 4.3.22 Henry Crabb Robinsoni'The Fete of Corpus Domini' 213 4.3.23 Charles Dickens: Unprepossessing Priests 213 4.3.24 John Addington Symonds: "The Crucifix of Crema' 214 4.3.25 Francis M. Elliot: 'An Audience of the Pope' 216 4.3.26 Samuel Butler. Wishing to be a Catholic in Catholic Countries' 218 43.27 Janet Ross: 'A Curious and a Most Horrible Sight' 219 4.3.28 George Gissing: 'The End of Theocracy' 220 4.3.29 Oscar Wilde: Oscar Wilde's Last Pilgrimage 220 4.3.30 Norman Douglas: The Flying Monk of Copertino 222

4.4 Government and Politics 225 4.4.1 Robert Dallington: The Rich Despots of Tuscany 225 4.4.2 Richard Lassels: "The Government of Rome' 227 4.4.3 Joseph Addison: Italian Beauty vs. British Liberty 227 4.4.4 Joseph Addison: Political Constitutions: Venice - San Marino - Modena and Parma 228 4.4.5 Hester Lynch Piozzi: The Grand Duke of Tuscany 230 4.4.6 J.B.S. Morritt: The King of Naples, the Lazzaroni and the Nobles 231 4.4.7 John Chetwode Eustace: Italy Degraded into a French Province 231 4.4.8 Lady Sidney Morgan: The British Minister and the Italian Reactionaries 232 4.4.9 Lord Byron: A Free Italy 233 4.4.10 John Cam Hobhouse, Baron Broughton: Roman Government 234 4.4.11 Anna Brownell Jameson: Refusing to Discuss Italian Politics 236 4.4.12 William Hazlitt:; Italy and English Politics 237 4.4.13 Edward Lear: Revolution in Calabria 237 4.4.14 George Eliot: Caring more for Giotto than Cavour 239 4.4.15 John Addington Symonds: Italia Unita and the Mafia 239 4.4.16 Norman Douglas: Italian Bureaucracy and the 'Sense of Law-Breaking' 240 4.4.17 Osbert Sitwell: An Interview with d'Annunzio 242 4.4.18 D.H. Lawrence: D'Annunzio and the Fall of Fiume 246 4.4.19 Anthony Rhodes: At a Festa dell' Unita 249 4.4.20 Duncan Fallowell: The Maxi Processi against the Mafia 252

4.5 Social and Sexual Manners 256 4.5.1 Thomas Hoby: Death in Venice 256 i 4.5.2 Thomas Coryate: The Venetian Courtesans Anatomised 256 4.5.3 Thomas Coryate: Forks and the Civilizing Process 259 4.5.4 George : The Gentlemen of Messina 259 4.5.5 Richard Lassels: Roman Remedies for Ill-Married Women and Penitent Whores '. 260 4.5.6 Richard Lassels: Carnival in Rome 260 4.5.7 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu: 'The Prodigious Alteration in Regard to our Sex' 262 4.5.8 Tobias Smollett: Shopkeeping Nobility 263 4.5.9 Samuel Sharp: Cavalieri serventi andCicisbei 263 4.5.10 Joseph Baretti: Cicisbei and Platonic Philosophy 265 4.5.11 Hester Lynch Piozzi: Cicisbeism Re-Considered 266 4.5.12 Hester Lynch Piozzi: The Conversazioni at Naples 266 4.5.13 Peter Beckford:'I Cannot Recommend their Taste' 267 4.5.14 Lord Byron: A Self-Portrait of the Expatriate Poet asCavaliere Servente 269 4.5.15 Lord Byron: 'A Volume of Manners' in two Pages 273 4.5.16 Richard Keppel Craven: Labourers, Priests, and the Middling Class 274 4.5.17 Edward Lear: The Italians and Animals 276 4.5.18 John Ruskin: Poverty Considered as a Fine Art 277 4.5.19 Samuel Butler: A Day at the'Cantine' 277 4.5.20 George Gissing: "The Sindaco's Embarrassment' 278 4.5.21 D.H. Lawrence: The Old, Salty Way of Love' 279 4.5.22 Arnold Bennett: Banking in Italy 280 4.5.23 Charles Lister: The Passeggiata and the Mating Business 281 4.5.24 Fiona Pitt-Kethley: Latin Lovers 282 4.5.25 Fiona Pitt-Kethley: Gay Prostitutes and Razzisti at Palermo Railway Station 283 4.6 National Character 285 4.6.1 Fynes Moryson: Italian Effeminacy, Revenge and Lust 285 4.6.2 James Howell: The Italians: A Caveat 286 4.6.3 Richard Lassels: Italian Wit, Italian Humour and Italian Manners 287 4.6.4 Gilbert Burnet: 'The Degeneracy of the Italians' 288 4.6.5 Joseph Addison: The French, the Spanish, and the Italians 288 4.6.6 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu: 'A Style in Everything' 289 4.6.7 Samuel Sharp: 'Love of Show' 289 4.6.8 Joseph Baretti: The Necessity of Making Distinctions 290 4.6.9 William Beckford: 'Pretensions of Importance' and 'Inattention to Domestic Economy' 291

XI 4.6.10 Hester Lynch Piozzi: The Italians - Quite Unlike the English 291 4.6.11 Samuel Taylor Coleridge: 'Creatures of Habit and Momentary Passions' 293 4.6.12 Samuel Rogers: The Picturesque Italian Women 293 4.6.13 Percy Bysshe Shelley: "The Modern Italians' and the 'Two Italies' 294 4.6.14 Lord Byron:'The Fatal Gift of Beauty' 294 4.6.15 Lord Byron: Poisoning and 'The Passions of a Sunny Soil' 295 4.6.16 Marguerite Blessington: Dolce Far'Niente 295 4.6.17 William Hazlitt: The Myth of Italian Sloth Exploded 296 4.6.18 Richard Keppel Craven: Modern Decay 297 4.6.19 John Ruskin: The Modern Italians 297 4.6.20 Robert Browning: "The Uninterestingness of the Italians Individually' 298 4.6.21 Samuel Butler: The High Standard of Courtesy and Good Manners 299 4.6.22 Arthur Symons: North and South 300 4.6.23 George Gissing: The Woe within the Gaiety" 300 4.6.24 George Gissing: 'An Innate Respect for Things of the Mind' 301 4.6.25 D.H. Lawrence: 'The Secret of Italy's Attraction for us' 302 4.6.26 Eric Newby: Italian Hospitality '. 303 4.6.27 Anthony Rhodes: The Charming, Grasping and Dishonest Italians....305 4.6.28 Anthony Rhodes: The Town of the Beautiful Women 306 4.6.29 Duncan Fallowell: The Italians, The French - and the English 306 4.6.30 Jonathan Keates: Italy and the Art of Living in Cities 308

4.7 Nature 310 4.7.1 Thomas Coryate: 'The Very Paradise and Canaan of Christendom' 310 4.7.2 John Evelyn: Climbing Mount Vesuvius 310 4.7.3 Richard Lassels: Glow-Worms in the Po Valley 311 4.7.4 Francis Mortoft: 'Rare Water Works' 311 4.7.5 Joseph Addison:'Poetic Fields'and'Classic Ground' 313 4.7.6 Joseph Addison: Cascata Delle Marmore and River Nar 313 4.7.7 George Berkeley: Tarantuli in Bari 315 4.7.8 Thomas Gray: Nature 'Pregnant with Religion and Poetry' 316 4.7.9 Tobias Smollett: 'An Object of Tremendous Sublimity' 316 4.7.10 Patrick Brydone: Science and Superstition Meeting on Mount Aetna 317

XII 4.7.11 Hester Lynch Piozzi: 'Living in Eden Still': The Isola Bella 319 4.7.12 Richard Colt Hoare: The Terrors of Scylla and Charybdis and the Improvement of Science 319 4.7.13 Joseph Forsyth: The Beauties of Landscape 321 4.7.14 Samuel Rogers: Vallombrosa and Milton and Ariosto and Politian and Eustace and 321 4.7.15 Percy Bysshe Shelley: An Excursion to Vesuvius 322 4.7.16 Lady Sidney Morgan: Italian Gardening: 'The Abortions of Degenerate Art' 323 4.7.17 Anna Brownell Jameson: Picturesque Italy 323 4.7.18 John Ruskin: hi the Light of Turner 324 4.7.19 Frances Trollope: Germany more Picturesque than Italy 325 4.7.20 Thomas Adolphus Trollope: Picturesque Vines and Acrid Wine 325 4.7.21 George Henry Lewes: Far from the 'Intellectual Strife', of English Life 325 4.7.22 John Addington Symonds: The Charm of a Tuscan View 326 4.7.23 Janet Ross: The Mare Piccolo of Taranto 327 4.7.24 Vernon Lee: The Ilex Woods of and the Anchorites 330 4.7.25 Norman Douglas: The Blue Grotto and the Packaging of Nature 331 4.7.26 Evelyn Waugh:'Etna at Sunset' 335 A.I.21 Anthony Rhodes: The Cascata delle Marmore, Once More 335 4.7.28 Lisa St. Aubin de Teran: The Wild Boars of Tuscany 335 I

5. Italian Cities 337 5.1 Venice 337 5.1.1 Thomas Coryate: Venice Seen from Above 337 5.1.2 John Evelyn: 'The Strange Variety of the Several Nations' 338 5.1.3 Richard Lassels: The Doge Marrying the Sea 339 5.1.4 Richard Lassels: A Mistress rather than a Wife 340 5.1.5 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu: High Life in Venice 340 5.1.6 William Beckford: 'The Liveliest Picture Imaginable' 341 5.1.7 Hester Lynch Piozzi: On first Looking at Canaletto's Venice 342 5.1.8 John Chetwode Eustace: Venice not Preserved 343 5.1.9 Lord Byron: 'The ThingJhat most Struck my Imagination in Venice'.. 344 5.1.10 Lord Byron: 'A Dying Glory' 345 5.1.11 Percy Bysshe Shelley: 'Once a Tyrant, now a Slave' 346 5.1.12 John Cam Hobhouse, Baron Broughton: The Gondoliers' Song 346

XIII 5.1.13 Frances Trollope: Swimming in a Gondola 347 5.1.14 John Ruskin: Venice Destroyed 348 5.1.15 Edward Lear: The Pictures better than the Real Thing 349 5.1.16 John Ruskin: Venice Created by Byron 349 5.1.17 John Addington Symonds: 'Studying Venetian Decadence' 350 5.1.18 Arthur Symons: Spectacular Venice 351 5.1.19 Jan Morris: Imperial Venice 353

5.2 Florence 356 5.2.1 Henry Wotton: 'A Paradise Inhabited with Devils' 356 5.2.2 Horace Walpole: Carnival, Society and Duelling in Florence 356 5.2.3 John Boyle, Earl of Corke and Orrery: Horace Mann and Florentine Manners 357 5.2.4 Samuel Rogers: "The Golden Days of Florence' 359 5.2.5 Lady Sidney Morgan: The Loggia dei Lanzi 359 5.2.6 William Hazlitt:'A Town that has Survived Itself 360 5.2.7 John Ruskin: Unlovable Florence, Divine and Heavenly 361 5.2.8 Arthur Symons: Florence and Donatello 362 5.2.9 Arnold Bennett:'First Walk through Town' 363

5.3 Rome 364 5.3.1 William Lithgow: 'Viewing the Gorgeous Mosaical Work of St. Peter's' ' 364 5.3.2 George Berkeley: A Day of Sightseeing in Rome 365 i 5.3.3 Joseph Spence: The Mixture that is Rome 366 5.3.4 Edward Gibbon: The Decline and Fall of the 367 5.3.5 Tobias Smollett: LeFontanedi Roma 367 5.3.6 Samuel Sharp: 'A Melancholy Place' Called Rome 368 5.3.7 Anna Brownell Jameson: The Coliseum by Moonlight 368 5.3.8 Lord Byron: Nothing of Rome? 369 5.3.9 William Hazlitt: 'Great only in Ruins' 369 5.3.10 Edward Lear: The Wonderful Illumination of St. Peter's 370 5.3.11 Charles Dickens: A First View of Rome 370 .5.3.12 George Eliot:'Disappointment Relieved' 371 5.3.13 Francis M. Elliot: In the Footsteps of the Apostles 372 5.3.14 Arthur Symons: A Roman Sunset 373 5.3.15 Hilaire Belloc: The End of the Path to Rome 374

XIV 5.3.16 Elizabeth Bowen:'Roma Sparita' 377

5.4 Naples 381 5.4.1 George Sandys: The Beauties of Naples 381 5.4.2 John Evelyn: The Most Magnificent City in 381 5.4.3 George Berkeley: Ischia and Naples 382 5.4.4 John Bacon Sawrey Morritt: The Most Notable Sight of Naples: Lady Hamilton's Attitudes 383 5.4.5 Percy Bysshe Shelley: Winter in Naples 384 5.4.6 Lady Sidney Morgan: Lazzaroni and Dolce FarNiente 384 5.4.7 Mariana Starke:'The Character of the Neapolitans' 386 5.4.8 Marguerite Blessington: 'A Ghastly Masquerade' 386 5.4.9 Evelyn Waugh: Chastity, Neapolitan Style 388 5.4.10 Eric Newby: An Evening in Piazza Sannazzaro 389

6. Off the Beaten Tracks and the Mezzogiorno 395 6.1 Richard Torkington: Passing through Calabria and on the Pilgrimage to Jerusalem 395 6.2 Thomas Hoby: Hospitality at the Coast of Amalfi 395 6.3 George Sandys: Sicily, the Sicilians and the French Disease 397 6.4 George Berkeley: 'Their Gusto too Rich and Luxuriant' 398 6.5 Patrick Brydone: 'A Strange Species of Madness' 399 6.6 Patrick Brydone: Sicilian Proficiency in English 401 6.7 Henry Crabb Robinson: Sicily, 'The Crown and Completion of Every Italian Tour' 401 6.8 Richard Keppel Craven: Little Known Castel del Monte 402 6.9 Edward Lear: A Tour Round Sicily 404 6.10 Edward Lear: 'Wonderful Expeditions' 404 6.11 Edward Lear: Sketching in Palizzi 405 6.12 George Dennis: Through the Maremma in Search of the Etruscans 406 6.13 Janet Ross: Pliny's Well 409 6.14 Martin Shaw Briggs: In Praise of Lecce 410 6.15 Norman Douglas: A Column in MagnaGraecia 411 6.16 D.H. Lawrence: 'Penetrating into Italy' 414 6.17 Duncan Fallowell: 'A Trapdoor to Infinity' 416

IV. References and Notes 417

XV V. Gazetteer of Travellers 465

VI. Bibliography 525 1. Bibliographical Reference 527 2. Anthologies 528 3. History and Modes of Travelling 529 4. Women Travellers 531 5. Travel Writing: General 532 6. British Travelling in Italy, Travel Writing on Italy, and Cultural Traffic with Italy 537 7. Some Non-British and Visual Traditions 548 8. Further Post-1860 British Travelogues on Italy 550

XVI