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PAIDEIA TOUR 8-23 January 2011

This is our eighth Paideia East-European tour sponsored by the Reed College alumni office and Russian department, and it is intended as a broad investigation of from its beginnings through the modern era. As the following itinerary describes in detail, we will in that inquiring spirit visit Russia's greatest cities, the present capital, , and the former one, St. Petersburg, as well as make overnight trips to the smaller towns of Sergiev Posad, , Vladimir, and Novgorod the Great, which played important roles in the early development of Russian secular and religious life and contain stunning architec- tural monuments from the eleventh through the seventeenth centuries, including ancient monasteries and cathedrals, centers of the Orthodox that helped to lay the foundation of Russian culture a millennium ago (the East Slavs were converted by the Byzantines in 988) and that still occupies an active place in it today.

Established in 1147 by Yury Dolgoruky, a scion of the Kievan dynasty that ruled the East Slavs from the ninth to the thirteenth century, Moscow is today a vibrant world city that holds fast to its deep history even as it moves ahead to the rhythms of the twenty-first century. We will take in Moscow's most remarkable sites, including and the Kremlin with its splendid fifteenth- and sixteenth-century cathedrals and superb Armory historical museum; the lovely New Maiden Convent (founded 1524); , the childhood residence on the city's outskirts of Peter I, the Great (1672-1725); the Tretyakov Gallery, the country's largest collection of Russian art, with many great works from the first third of the twelfth century through the early twentieth; and the of Fine Arts, with outstanding holdings in European painting and sculpture, including master- pieces of Impressionism and Post-Impressionism, thanks to the gifted pre-revolutionary Moscow collectors Shchukin and Morozov, who were among the first to recognize the significance of the new art and did much to assure its inseminating presence. Besides acquainting ourselves with Moscow's extraordinary museums and historical sites, we will also have, as an evening option, the opportunity to attend performances of the Bolshoi Ballet and Opera Theater, among other distinguished concert venues.

After our time in Moscow and an overnight visit to the nearby Sergiev Posad, Suzdal, and Vladimir, we will proceed by bullet train to St. Petersburg, the magnificent Baltic capital founded in 1703 by . St. Petersburg is one of 's youngest major cities, but it is also among its most beautiful and dramatic, with many impressive eigh- teenth-century structures of great historical interest. Besides its role as the imperial capital from 1713 to 1918 and its central place in the history of the Soviet period, when it was called Leningrad (1924-91), St. Petersburg is a Mecca of art, thanks to the presence in its enormous Winter of what is universally recognized as one of the world's premier art institutions, the , with stupendous exhibits representing vir- tually every stage of European fine and applied art from Greek and Roman antiquity through the and modern era, including masterpieces by Leonardo, the largest assemblage of outside the Netherlands, and, thanks again to Shchukin and Morozov, whose collections were divided between the Pushkin Museum and the Hermitage, especially fine Cézannes, Picassos, and Matisses, among many other important moderns. We will reserve a full day for the Hermitage, although it is truly inexhaustible, 2011 Paideia Tour 2 and also visit the Russian Museum, the country's second largest collection of Russian art, as well as the gorgeous Yusupov Palace and, in the nearby town of Pushkin, the beautiful , the most impressive of the ' summer residences. In addition to its great museums and important historical sites, St. Petersburg is also the home of the celebrated Mariinsky Ballet and Opera Company, founded in 1783 by Catherine II, the Great (1729-96), and, as in Moscow with the Bolshoi, one of several evening performance options that will be available to us.

While in St. Petersburg we will take a second overnight trip, this time to Russia's oldest city, Novgorod the Great, established in 862 as a Norse trading center along the system of inland water ways connecting Scandinavia to Byzantium and part of the domain of Kievan Rus until the late twelfth century, when it became an independent city-state with ties to the Baltic Hanseatic League. In dramatic contrast to baroque and neoclassical St. Petersburg with its emphatic, even programmatic Western orientation (its brilliant eighteenth-century buildings are largely the work of Italians), Novgorod boasts one of the finest ensembles of East Slavic medieval architecture, including the Novgorod kremlin and its crown, the Cathedral of Holy Sophia, or Holy Wisdom, built in the mid-eleventh century and harking back to the Byzantine Hagia Sophia.

But remarkable historical sites, superlative museums, and extraordinary architecture of complex cultural purpose and symbolism are only part of our program, with its inevitable oscillation between the modern and the medieval, the familiar and the exotic, the urban and the rural, and the secular and the ecclesiastic, as permeable as the boundary between those last two realms has been in Russia over the centuries.

The tour is open to any, young or old, student, parent, alumnus, or friend who wishes to learn more about Russia and its fascinating history and remarkable architecture, art, litera- ture, and music and their vital place in the world. No knowledge of Russian is necessary, since the tour will at every stage have English-speaking guides chosen for their linguistic skill and expert knowledge of the local history.

The tour organizer and leader, Judson Rosengrant, has taught , literature, and culture at Reed, the University of Southern California, and Indiana University, and, as a two-time Fulbright Senior Scholar, translation theory and practice at St. Petersburg State University. He holds graduate degrees in Slavic languages and literatures from Stanford University and has received post-doctoral fellowships from the Mellon Foundation, Har- vard University, and the National Endowment for the Humanities. He is an award-winning literary and scholarly editor and translator of Russian literature and historiography, among whose current projects are an English edition of the autobiography of the twentieth-century master Alexander Solzhenitsyn and, in press with Penguin Classics, a new translation of 's early Childhood, Boyhood, Youth.

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ITINERARY

Day 1 Sat., Jan. 8 Portland-

LV PDX UA250 07:35 A319 4h58 AR IAD 15:33

LV IAD SK926 17:15 A330-300 7h55

Day 2 Sun., Jan. 9 Copenhagen-Moscow

AR CPH 07:10

LV CPH SK734 09:50 A319 2h25 AR SVO 14:15

Transfer by coach to the Holiday Inn Lesnaya in central Moscow, with guide

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time or Metro excursion to Red Square with tour leader

Day 3 Mon., Jan. 10 Moscow

Breakfast at the hotel

Morning: Bus tour of the city, with guide, including and Pushkin Square, and Moscow University, and Red Square: St. Basil's, GUM, and Lenin's tomb.

Lunch at a restaurant

Afternoon: Excursion to the Kremlin, with guide

The Kremlin (the English is a corruption of the Russian word for 'citadel') is of course the actual and symbolic seat of the Russian government, but it is also a historical and architectural site of exceptional beauty, dating in its original earth and log form from the founding of Moscow in the twelfth century. We will tour the interior, visiting both the Armory historical museum and the astonish- ing ensemble of churches at the Kremlin's heart, including the Cathedral of the Assumption (1475-79), the Cathedral of the Annunciation (1484-89), and the Cathedral of the Archangel (1505-08), the burial place of the tsars until the early eighteenth century, when Peter the Great moved the government to his newly built capital of St. Petersburg and was himself interred there in its Peter 2011 Paideia Tour 4

and Paul Cathedral (see Day 10).

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time or optional performance at the New Stage of the Bolshoi Ballet and Opera, near the company's 1825 Main Hall (closed in July 2005 for a multi-year, $800 million overhaul). The program for this evening, as with the other theaters mentioned herein, is currently unavailable but will be published later in the fall, at which time participants will be given a chance to purchase tickets in a variety of seating and price categories or to choose other concert and performance venues.

Day 4 Tues., Jan. 11 Moscow

Breakfast at the hotel

Morning: Excursion to the State Tretyakov Gallery, including the Church of St. Nicholas on Tolmachev Street, with guide

Founded in 1856, the Tretyakov Gallery is one of the country's two main collections of Russian art, with over 130,000 paintings, sculptures, and graphic works, ranging from eleventh-century Byzantine and fourteenth- century Russian icons, including masterpieces by Theophanes the Greek and Andrei Rublyov, through nineteenth-century realist portraiture and narrative painting, with celebrated canvases by Repin, Kramskoy, and Serov, and ending in the early twentieth century, with works by Vrubel and Bakst, among many other important figures. Thanks to the quality and diversity of its holdings and their skillful presentation, the Tretyakov Gallery offers excellent insight into the origins of Russian national culture and its development—its evolving themes and orientations—over the last nine hundred years.

The Church of St. Nicholas on Tolmachev Street is a newly restored wing of the museum and, with characteristic Russian syncretism, also an active place of worship. It houses one of the oldest and certainly one of the most revered icons in Russian Christendom, the Vladimir Theotokos or Mother of God, painted in Constantinople in the early twelfth century—at once an exquisite work of art, a national palladium ('s 1552 victory over the Tatar khanate at Kazan was attributed to its sacred power), and a holy object expressive of the most profound spiritual values. Its geographical history is part of its meaning too. Painted in Byzantium, it was brought to Kiev in 1132, then in 1167 taken to Vladimir when that city replaced Kiev as the capital of the East Slavs, and then in 1395 moved to Moscow, where it was installed in the Kremlin in an earlier version of the Assumption Cathedral (see Day 3), the icon's presence imparting legitimacy to each city as a divinely sanctioned center of East Slavic and then of Russian political and religious life.

2011 Paideia Tour 5

Lunch at a restaurant

Afternoon: Excursion to Kolomenskoye and the historical museum and com- pound, with guide

Once a tiny village on a bluff overlooking the Moscow River southeast of the city but now situated well within its limits, Kolomenskoye served in the six- teenth and seventeenth centuries as the summer retreat of the tsars. No less importantly, it was the boyhood home of Peter the Great and is today noted for its historical museum and log structures, including Peter's cabin (1702), and for its sixteenth- and seventeenth-century stone buildings, especially the magni- ficent, recently restored Romanesque Church of the Ascension (1529) and the more modest but still beautiful Church of the Kazan Theotokos (1644).

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time or a concert or performance

Day 5 Wed., Jan. 12 Moscow

Breakfast at the hotel

Morning: Excursion to Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts, with guide.

The Pushkin Museum is, after the Hermitage in St. Petersburg, Russia's second home of non-Russian art, with a distinguished collection representing ancient Egypt, Greek and Roman antiquity, Byzantium, and Western Europe from the early Renaissance through the modern period, and including, in its new venue for modern art, important works by Monet, Cézanne, Renoir, Dégas, Van Gogh, Picasso, and Matisse.

Optional visit to the nearby Cathedral of Christ the Savior (1995-97)

Built as a resounding national gesture of repudiation of the Soviet era, the cathedral stands on the site of the original nineteenth-century cathedral demolished in a no less resounding gesture by Stalin in 1933 to make way, after much overreaching, indecision, and delay, for an immense municipal swimming pool, completed in 1959. However one may regard the cultural and historical significance or aesthetic merit of the new cathedral (and given the complexity and importance of the issues, the views of themselves vary widely), the marble and granite structure, built at a cost of at least 360 million dollars, is very impressive indeed, as are the ornate interiors of its upper and lower sanctuaries and their galleries.

Lunch at a restaurant

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Afternoon: Novodevichy ('New-Maiden') Convent and museum and cemetery

Founded in 1524 as a cloister for noblewomen, consists of a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century buildings of extraordinary beauty and charm, including the Cathedral of the Theotokos, built in 1524-25. The convent's cemetery is one of the nation's most distin- guished and contains the graves of the writers Gogol, Chekhov, Mayakovsky, Bulgakov, and Yury Olesha, the film director Sergey Eisenstein, the composer Shostakovich, the pianist Svyatoslav Richter, the ballerina , the Soviet leader , and Russia's first president, , among many other important nineteenth- and twentieth-century figures.

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time or a concert or performance

Day 6 Thurs., Jan. 13 Moscow-Sergiev Posad-Suzdal

Breakfast at the hotel

Morning: Transfer by coach to Sergiev Posad and the Holy Trinity-St. Sergius Monastery, with local guide

Sergiev Posad ('Sergius's Trading Quarter'), a small town about fifty miles northeast of Moscow, is the site of the Trinity-St. Sergius Monastery, founded in the fourteenth century by the monk Sergius of Radonezh (c. 1321-91) and the holiest in Russia. In addition to its great historical significance and cultural prestige as the epicenter of Russian Orthodoxy from the fifteenth century until its closing by a nervous Bolshevik government from 1920 until 1946, the monastery is noted for its striking architecture, including the Trinity Cathedral (1422-23), containing the relics of St. Sergius and an painted by the artel of Andrei Rublyov and Daniil Chyorny; the Church of the Holy Spirit (1476); and the gold-domed Cathedral of the Assumption, commissioned by Ivan IV, the Terrible (1530-84),in expiation of his sins and completed in 1585.

Late lunch at a local restaurant

Afternoon: Transfer by coach to Suzdal and the Pushkarskaya Sloboda Hotel, a distance of about 120 miles.

First mentioned in the chronicles in 1024 as an outpost of the kingdom of Kievan Rus (c. 880-1169) in the fertile confluence of the Oka and Upper Volga rivers, the town of Suzdal grew in importance, becoming after the collapse of Kiev first the capital of the Rostov-Suzdalian principality, and then an inde- pendent city-state until its annexation by Muscovy in the late fourteenth century. Because of its ancient heritage and relatively unscathed survival of the 2011 Paideia Tour 7

'Tatar Yoke' (the occupation of the region by the khans of the Mongol Golden Horde, c. 1238-1480) and its avoidance of industrial development during the late Imperial and Soviet periods, Suzdal contains one of the most beautiful and pristine ensembles of early architecture in Russia. Of particular note are the buildings of the Suzdal kremlin (dating from the twelfth century), the Savior- Euphemius Monastery (founded in 1352, with rebuilt structures from the sixteenth century, including the Cathedral of the Transfiguration, 1594), the Pokrovsky Convent ('Convent of the Intercession,' 1510-18), and the convent's Cathedral of St. Anne (1551).

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time

Day 7 Fri., Jan. 14 Suzdal and Vladimir

Morning: Tour of Suzdal, including the Savior-Euphemius Monastery and the Cathedral of the Transfiguration, the ancient churches of the Posad or Trading Quarter, the Suzdal kremlin, and the Historical Museum, with local guide

Lunch at a restaurant in Suzdal

Afternoon: Transfer by coach to Vladimir, a distance of about twenty-three miles. Tour of Vladimir, including the Cathedrals of the Assumption and St. Demetrius, the History Museum, and the Golden Gate and its museum, with local guide

The city of Vladimir, founded in 1108 by Prince Vladimir of Kiev but devas- tated by the Mongols in 1238, lacks the uncluttered, fairytale quality of Suz- dal, but it does boast a few surviving structures of immense beauty and his- torical importance, including the Cathedral of the Assumption (dating from 1158-60) with early fifteenth-century frescoes by the artel of Rublyov and Chyorny, and the adjacent Cathedral of St. Demetrius (1194-97) with its unique exterior decoration that seems to represent the full range of the East Slavic debt to Byzantine culture. Also of note are the remnants of the twelfth- century Vladimir kremlin and the Golden Gate (1164), the entrance to the an- cient city.

Return by coach to Suzdal and the Pushkarskaya Sloboda Hotel

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time

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Day 8 Sat., Jan. 15 Suzdal-Moscow

Breakfast at hotel

Morning: Transfer by coach to Moscow and the Holiday Inn Lesnaya, a distance of about 135 miles.

Lunch at the hotel

Afternoon: Free time: Old Arbat

The Old Arbat is a pedestrian mall famous for its buskers and sidewalk artists, many restaurants and cafés, and excellent shops offering high-quality Russian handcrafts, textiles, ceramics, and other souvenirs.

Dinner: At the traveler's discretion

Evening: Free time or concert or performance

Day 9 Sun., Jan. 16 Moscow-St. Petersburg

Buffet breakfast at the hotel

Late morning: Transfer by coach to Leningrad Station

Depart Moscow at 13:00 for St. Petersburg, a distance of about 440 miles, on the Sapsan ('Peregrine Falcon') bullet train. Lunch on the train at the traveler's discretion.

Arrive in St. Petersburg at 17:15

Transfer by coach from Moscow Station to the Hotel on Alexander Nevsky Square in central St. Petersburg, with guide

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time or optional excursion to the Holy Trinity-Alexander Nevsky Monastery, opposite the hotel, with tour leader

The Holy Trinity-Alexander Nevsky Monastery (or Lavra), founded in 1713 at the behest of Peter the Great, is one of the highest ranking in the country and, along with the impressive Trinity Cathedral (1776-90), the site of Russia's sec- ond most important cemetery, the resting place of the novelist Dostoevsky and the composers Glinka, Mussorgsky, Borodin, and Tchaikovsky, among other important figures.

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Day 10 Mon., Jan. 17 St. Petersburg

Breakfast at the hotel

Morning: Bus tour of the city, with guide, including Smolny Cathedral, Fountain House, Bronze Horseman, St. Isaac's Square, University, Savior on the Blood, the Kazan Cathedral, and

Lunch at a restaurant

Afternoon: Excursion to the , including the Cathedral and the Trubetskoy Bastion, with guide

St. Petersburg was founded in 1703 (it is younger than Boston or New York), and the Peter and Fall Fortress, built to secure the marshy delta on which the new city would eventually rise, was the first large structure to be completed. Its original earthen walls soon replaced by the granite-faced brick we see today, the fortress contains sites of great architectural and his- torical interest. Chief among them is the Peter and Paul Cathedral, finished in 1733 by the Italian architect in a deliberately Western style meant to symbolize Peter the Great's fundamental reorientation of the Russian state. The cathedral contains the tombs of Peter himself and of most of the members of the Romanov dynasty who succeeded him, including Cath- erine the Great, Alexander I, and, after a long delay, Nicholas II and the Empress Alexandra and their children and several family retainers, all of them shot, incinerated, and buried in unmarked graves by the in 1918 but not interred in the cathedral until 1998—an event of great pomp and national symbolism reasserting the deep continuities of Russian history and culture. We will visit the Cathedral and also the Trubetskoy Bastion, dating from the mid-eighteenth century and employed by the tsars as a prison for im- portant political prisoners, including the assassin of Alexander II, Vera Figner, the writer , and the disgraced Bolshevik leader .

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time or Mariinsky performance or other concert

Day 11 Tues., Jan. 18 St. Petersburg

Breakfast at the hotel

Morning: Excursion to the State Hermitage Museum, with guide

The Hermitage (or Ermitage, if you like, since the Russian word is actually a transliteration of the French) is one of the world's greatest museums, with over three million items in its possession. Many of them are on display in the 2011 Paideia Tour 10

museum's several interconnected buildings, which include the Baroque , designed and built for the Empress Elizabeth by the Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli in 1730-62, as well as the so-called Small and Large Hermitages later constructed by order of (reigned 1762- 96) to house her private art collection, purchased in 1764, the museum's nominal founding year. Containing works by virtually every major artist in the Western canon, the Hermitage's monumental holdings are far too diverse and comprehensive for a brief summary. Among the numerous highlights, however, are the Greek and Roman sculpture, the Leonardo Madonna Litta and Madonna Benois, the twenty-three Rembrandts (the largest assembly outside the Netherlands), the El Grecos, Bruegels, and Van Dykes, and the numerous works, already mentioned, by Cézanne, Picasso, and Matisse. The museum is an feast for the eyes and mind.

Lunch at a restaurant

Afternoon: Hermitage continuation, free time, or optional individual excur- sion to the Dostoevsky Museum and the Kuznechny Market

The Dostoevsky Museum, located in the apartment that belonged to Dostoev- sky and his wife, Anna, from 1878 until his death in 1881 at the age of sixty and in which he wrote The Brothers Karamazov, provides a sense of the writer himself and of the cozy domestic refuge created for him and their family by Anna. The nearby Kuznechny Market, the city's best farmer's market, offers a variety of impressive foodstuffs, both fresh and prepared.

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time or a performance or concert

Day 12 Wed., Jan. 19 St. Petersburg

Breakfast at the hotel

Morning: State Russian Museum, with guide

The Russian Museum in the Mikhailov Palace, built by the Russian architect Karl Rossi in 1819-25, was founded in 1895 and contains the country's second most important collection of Russian art, including superb icons from Nov- gorod and dating from the twelfth to the fifteenth centuries, the evocative nineteenth-century landscapes of Shishkin and Levitan, the great late nineteenth-century portraits of Repin and Serov, and a charming display of early Russian folk and applied art, among many other objects of exception- al interest. Those looking for serious art books and exhibition catalogues, lacquer boxes, ceramics, and other choice souvenirs will enjoy the museum's shops and kiosks. 2011 Paideia Tour 11

Lunch at a restaurant

Afternoon: Excursion to the Yusupov Palace on the Moika embankment

Built in 1770 by court architect of Catherine the Great, Jean-Baptise Vallin de la Mothe, and once the opulent residence of one of Imperial Russia's wealthiest families, the Yusupov Palace is perhaps best known as a 1916 crime scene, the place where the ambiguous favorite of , the Siberian lay monk Grigory Rasputin, was murdered by the young Prince and his cabal. In addition to its colorful not to say deliciously lurid history, the building is justly celebrated for its stunning interior decoration, illustrating a variety of eighteenth- to twentieth-century styles.

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time or Mariinsky performance or other concert

Day 13 Thurs., Jan. 20 St. Petersburg-Pushkin-Novgorod the Great

Breakfast at the hotel

Morning: transfer by coach to Pushkin, a distance of about fifteen miles for a tour of the Catherine Palace, with guide.

Pushkin, or ('Royal Village') as it was known until 1918, lies sixteen miles southeast of St. Petersburg. Of the several summer built for the tsars, those of Tsarskoye Selo are surely the most extravagant— buildings of sumptuous elegance surrounded by majestic French and English parks. Of particular interest is the Baroque Catherine Palace, begun in 1717- 23 but redesigned in 1752-57 for the Empress Elizabeth by Rastrelli as a kind of Russian Versailles and named for her mother, Catherine I (not to be con- fused with Catherine II, the Great, who despised the building's vulgar excess, as she viewed it from her Neo-Classical vantage). We will tour the palace interior, including its famous , destroyed by the Germans during the Second World War but now magnificently restored with their assistance.

Lunch at a restaurant

Afternoon: Transfer by coach to Novgorod the Great and the Beresta Palace Hotel, a distance of about 105 miles.

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time

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Day 14 Fri., Jan. 21 Novgorod the Great

Breakfast the hotel

Morning: city tour, the Novgorod kremlin (dating in its initial log form from 1044), including the Cathedral of St. Sophia (1045-50), the Millennium Monument (1862), and the museum of old Russian icons, with local guide

Novgorod (New Town), Russia's oldest city, was founded on the River by the Varangians (a Viking tribe) in 862 as a trading center along the network of inland waterways connecting Byzantium with the fur- and honey-trading Finns and Slavs and, via the Neva and the Baltic, with Scan- dinavia and ultimately Iceland, Greenland, and North America. After the disintegration of Kievan Rus in the late twelfth century, Novgorod, protected by dense forests and impassable marshes (at least for cavalry), escaped Mongol Tatar dominion to emerge, with its sister city Pskov, as an independent republic linked to the Hanseatic League of Baltic trading partners until it was annexed by Muscovy in the fifteenth century. Because of its great age, early wealth, and fortunate freedom from Tatar attack, Novgorod has retained a remarkable ensemble of ancient buildings, including the oldest stone structure in Russia, the beautiful Cathedral of Holy Sophia, begun by Byzantine and Russian craftsmen just fifty-seven years after the conversion of the Kievan princes to Christianity in 988 and still an active church to today.

Lunch at a restaurant

Afternoon: Continuation with local guide of our tour of Novgorod, including the ensemble known as 'Yaroslav's Courtyard' dating from the early twelfth century, the exquisite Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior on Ilina Street (1374), the Peryn Cloister and the Church of the Nativity of Our Lady of Peryn (early thirteenth century), the by Lake Ilmen and its Church of St. George (1119), and the nearby museum of wooden architec- ture, with its array of archaic domestic buildings open for interior inspection.

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time

Day 15 Sat., Jan. 22 Novgorod the Great-St. Petersburg

Breakfast at the hotel

Morning: Transfer by coach to St. Petersburg and the Hotel Moskva

Lunch at the hotel

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Afternoon: Free time

Dinner at the hotel

Evening: Free time

Day 16 Sun., Jan. 23 St. Petersburg-Portland

Breakfast at the hotel

Mid morning transfer to

LV LED SK737 13:25 MD-80 2h AR CPH 13:25

LV CPH SK943 15:40 A340-300 9h30 AR ORD 18:10

LV ORD UA483 20:00 A320 4h39 AR PDX 22:39

CONTACT INFORMATION

Judson Rosengrant, PhD PO Box 551 Portland, OR 97207

503.880.9521 mobile [email protected]

September 2010 All rights reserved