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Glacier Lodge Eqi, Greenland

The Ranch at Rock THE Creek, Montana T&C TR AVE L

Mwiba Lodge,

La Mamounia, Marrakech 100 THE ULTIMATE CHECK-IN Gili Lankanfushi, CHECKLIST THE ROUNDTABLE f you’re like us, just any old—or new— MEG AUSTIN, The Travel Society and the Balkans, including private won’t do. We want to stay in a place with Family holidays and adventure trips along the Dalmatian Coast. charm and character, excellent service, travel—skiing, scuba diving—in EXETERINTERNATIONAL.COM, ALEX@EXETER the United States, the Caribbean, INTERNATIONAL.COM, 800-633-1008 Idelicious food, and the kind of atmosphere South and Central America, and that never quite lets you go. Here, published the South Pacific.MEG2BOOK@GMAIL BRIAN DORE and MARIA GABRIELLA for the first time, is theT&C list of the 100 .COM, 303-932-0434 LANDERS, Concierge in Umbria Food- most wonderful in the world, personally and culture-focused holidays vetted by an exclusive roundtable of consummate MAITA BARRENECHEA, MAI 10 Excep- throughout . CIUITALY.COM; INFO@ travel insiders who regularly journey the world tional trips throughout Argen- CIUTRAVEL.COM, 212-769-4767 tina, Chile, and . MAITA@ to discover the very best experiences out there. MAI10.COM.AR, 011-54-11-4314-3390 BERTIE and VICTORIA DYER, Beat They are all members of a highly exclusive club, Trips focused on architecture, Wendy Perrin’s Wow List—which is harder CHERRI BRIGGS, Explore Inc. Conser- yoga, photography, history, and to get into than Harvard. For more details on vation-minded safaris in southern shopping. INDIABEAT.CO.UK, 011-44-1263- each, and to book with them, if you wish, go to Africa.EXPLOREAFRICA.NET, CHERRI@ 588-929 WendyPerrin.com. Here, their specialties, in brief. EXPLOREAFRICA.NET, 888-596-6377 JONATHAN EPSTEIN, Celebrated Experi- ALEX DATSEV, Exeter International ences Bespoke , , Itineraries in , Slovenia, and . CELEBRATEDEXPERIENCES RANCH AT ROCK CREEK; LA MAMOUNIA; RINO RASMUSSEN (GLACIER LODGE EQI) RANCH AT T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 63 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM .COM, JONATHAN@CELEBRATEDEXPERIENCES remote South Pacific.EXPEDITION .COM, 800-322-2403 TRIPS.COM, [email protected], 206-547-0700 The pool in the SANDY FERGUSON, Asia Desk , Park Hyatt Vienna’s Laos, and . Known for ZACHARY RABINOR, Journey Mexico Arany Spa his vast network of hotel contacts Active luxury getaways for busi- and terrific guides.ASIADESK.NET, ness groups, families, and VIPs. [email protected], 800-667-4993 JOURNEYMEXICO.COM, ZACH@JOURNEY MEXICO.COM, 800-513-1587 ANDREA GRISDALE, IC Ne plus ultra Italian holidays. ICBELLAGIO STUART RIGG, Southern Crossings .COM, [email protected], 011-39- trips, including self- 031-952-059 drive itineraries and Great Barrier Reef island-hopping journeys. JULIAN HARRISON, Premier Tours [email protected] Southern Africa, , Rwanda, and East Africa. The KAREN FEDORKO SEFER, Sea Song Tours safari operator of choice for many Itineraries in , plus shore A-list celebrities and Fortune 500 excursions and exclusive access CEOs. PREMIERTOURS.COM, JULIANH@ events (dinners at Topkapi). PREMIERTOURS.COM, 800-545-1910 SEASONG.COM, 011-90-212-292-85-55

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rugged Kaokoveld region, where elephants and lions roam the vast plains. It’s also the only property for hundreds of miles around.” TENTS FROM $1,018, CHILTERN FIREHOUSE, , County Mayo, ALL-INCLUSIVE, WILDERNESS-SAFARIS.COM “I love it for its neo-Gothic Ireland “One of the most famous Julian Harrison, Premier Tours architecture, the cozy rooms medieval castles turned hotels, (with working fireplaces and with its fantastic art and hot water bottles in the beds), antiques, just got a top-to- real keys with tassels, a perfect bottom renovation, with a new breakfast, and the buzzing res- spa, cinema, and cigar terrace. taurant. For me it’s all about the The best hotel in Ireland.”FROM details, and this place gets them $424, ASHFORDCASTLE.COM Jonathan MONT ROCHELLE, Franschhoek, South PARK HYATT VIENNA, Austria “It’s right.” FROM $839, CHILTERNFIREHOUSE Epstein, Celebrated Experiences Africa “Richard Branson’s chic got the perfect location (right .COM M.B. makeover of a small hotel, in this in the Goldenes Quartier), famously gorgeous wine region, huge rooms, and the best hotel has 22 lovely rooms, most with pool in the city.” FROM $580, VIENNA. stunning views of the vineyard PARK.HYATT.COM Gwen Kozlowski, and mountains beyond.” FROM Exeter International $355, VIRGINLIMITEDEDITION.COM Cherri SUBLIME COMPORTA, Portugal Briggs, Explore Inc. LA RESERVE, Paris “The city “The cutting-edge design of the is flooded with swanky new place is worth a trip, but there’s hotels, not to mention the the equally fantastic location: AMILLA FUSHI, Maldives “An reopening of grandes dames the up-and-coming Comporta ultraluxurious resort seems to like the Crillon, but my favor- area—close to the beach, the open every few months in the ite is the more intimate but no medieval town of Evora, and Maldives, and the latest and less fabulous and romantic La several wine estates.” FROM $216, MWIBA LODGE, Serengeti, Tanzania greatest is Amilla Fushi, which Réserve. It’s big enough for a SUBLIMECOMPORTA.PT Joel A. Zack, “High up on a river gorge in has huge villas and overwater lovely restaurant, a little spa, Heritage Tours Private Travel the Serengeti Plains, with eight bungalows, each with a pool. even an indoor pool, and it’s tented rooms that disappear There’s exceptional snorkeling just around the corner from the into the landscape. Incred- and diving at the nearby reef, boutiques on Rue du Faubourg ible architecture throughout, and in summer there’s a large St.-Honoré.” FROM $833, LARESERVE- including a pool built on a cliff- concentration of manta rays PARIS.COM Terry McCabe, Altour top where the views stretch into in nearby Hanifaru Bay.” FROM infinity. Activities include off- FOUR SEASONS HOTEL, Moscow $1,250, AMILLA.MV Lindsey Wallace, road game drives day and night. ATOLL, MALDIVES; LA RESERVE PARIS; NELSON GARRIDO (SUBLIME COMPORTA) PARIS; MALDIVES; LA RESERVE ATOLL, S (HOANIB SKELETON COAST CAMP, LINKWASHA); VIRGIN LIMITED EDITION (MONT VIRGIN LIMITED EDITION (MONT LINKWASHA); S (HOANIB SKELETON COAST CAMP, Linara Travel “The Stalinist Hotel Moskva December through April, you’re has reemerged as an ambi- in the perfect spot to see migrat- tiously renovated Four Seasons, ing wildebeest herds.” FROM with the best location in town, $2,500 (FOR TWO), LEGENDARYEXPEDITIONS steps from Red Square and the .COM Nina Wennersten and Dan Bolshoi Theatre. Huge rooms, Saperstein, Hippo Creek Safaris fun bar, stunning spa.” FROM $580, FOURSEASONS.COM/MOSCOW Greg Tepper, Exeter International

LINKWASHA CAMP, “The first five-star tented camp in Hwange, the country’s largest HOANIB SKELETON COAST CAMP, national park, has an unbeatable The Treehouse Namibia “An unexpectedly elegant setting in an area that teems

TIM CLINCH (CHILTERN FIREHOUSE); ASHFORD CASTLE; WILDERNESS SAFARI TIM CLINCH (CHILTERN (FOUR SEASONS MOSCOW); AMILLA FUSHI, BAA ROCHELLE); PETER VITALE at Amilla Fushi new safari camp in Namibia’s with wildlife year-round. In the T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 65 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM dry months (May through Sep- ROMANTIC tember) hundreds of elephants hang out at a watering hole next to the camp—mind-blowing!” BEACH RESORTS FROM $1,444 (FOR TWO), WILDERNESS-SAFARIS .COM/CAMPS/LINKWASHA-CAMP C.B.

SONG SAA, Cambodia “The coun- AMAN , Montenegro try’s first luxury private island “It isn’t the beach that draws resort—located in the practi- SUJAN RAJMAHAL PALACE, Jaipur, people here, it’s the chance to cally undiscovered blue waters India “An out-of-this-world res- stay in a 15th-century island of the Koh Rong Archipelago— toration by the queen mother fishing village, masterfully is a marvelous place for a honey- of Jaipur, Padmini Devi, and her restored as only Aman can do moon, or to just drop out of favorite designer, Adil Ahmad. it. I love the new spa complex, the world.” FROM $1,840, ALL-INCLUSIVE, From funky wallpaper designs which has a private beach in SONGSAA.COM Antonia Neubauer, to intricately patterned fabrics, front of it. So romantic.” FROM Myths and Mountains each room is more dazzling $826, AMANRESORTS.COM G. T. than the next.” FROM $981, SUJAN LUXURY.COM Bertie and Victoria Dyer, India Beat

D-HOTEL MARIS, Turkey “A hotel this size, with nearly 200 rooms, may not be everyone’s RITZ-CARLTON, Kyoto “The city idea of romance, but it’s in a was starved for luxury hotels secluded spot—with extraor- before this opened, yet it’s any- dinary sea views from every- thing but a bland Western hotel. where—and spread out enough The design—an artful combina- that you can always find a quiet tion of traditional and modern corner. There are five private, Japanese elements—is as excel- idyllic beaches to choose from lent as the location: right on the (two don’t allow young kids), banks of the Kamogawa River, and I can’t think of a water The pool at N RESORTS (AMAN TOKYO, AMAN (AMAN TOKYO, AMAN N RESORTS

Belmond Hotel ISLAND) (NORTH SAFARIS and a short walk from the sport that isn’t offered.” FROM Splendido main restaurant and entertain- $379, DHOTEL.COM.TR Earl Starkey, ment area. A game changer for Sophisticated-Travel , KYOTO); AMA Kyoto.” FROM $587, RITZCARLTON.COM WILDERNESS Duff Trimble, Wabi-Sabi Japan

NORTH ISLAND, “This is the ultimate private island resort, with just 11 accommodations and four equally HOTEL ESENCIA, Mexico “The beautiful beaches on the island. The beach is spectacular, and the villas are enormous—each is like some- AMAN, Tokyo “Aman’s first urban hotel is more secluded than thing Robinson Crusoe would have property looks and feels like a almost any other on the Rivi- built if he had had a limitless budget. ryokan—with traditional Japa- era Maya, even though it’s just One of the things I like most is that nese artwork—but it’s set in a 25 minutes from Tulum. Now there are no set meal times or menus: modern, minimalist building in under new ownership and man- You simply tell the chef what you like the heart of Tokyo. It has the agement, it’s on track to be the to eat, and he will customize food just best views of any hotel in the very best and most intimate for you. There’s also 24/7 butler service city, and the best swimming superluxury resort in the area.” from your villa attendant.”FROM $6,070, pool possibly anywhere in the FROM $698, HOTELESENCIA.COM Zachary ALL-INCLUSIVE, NORTH-ISLAND.COM J.H.

world.” FROM $600, AMAN.COM D. T. Rabinor, Journey Mexico CHESTER ONG (RITZ-CARLTON (SUJAN RAJMAHAL PALACE); SUJAN LUXURY ISLAND; BELMOND; D-HOTEL MARIS; SONG SAA PRIVATE SVENTI STEFAN); T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 66 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM THE T&C TRAVEL 100

just 16 guests, max (no kids), and feels more like a private house than a resort. Activities include dive trips and fishing excursions, but nothing is more PARROT CAY, Turks and Caicos “A BARAZA RESORT & SPA, Zanzibar romantic than a candlelight Zen-like place that sits not “It has just 30 rooms, all villas dinner on one of the private only on its own island but that look like little Arabian pal- beaches.” FROM $869, BEDARRA.COM.AU on one of the best beaches in aces. Meals and most drinks are Stuart Rigg, Southern Crossings the Caribbean—really, in the included, but in contrast to other world. Plus, a great yoga pro- all-inclusive resorts, the food gram, an Asian-inspired spa, is terrific. Best of all, it’s on the and delicious, healthy food. The island’s most gorgeous stretch villas and beach houses (with of beach. Perfection.” FROM $877, plunge pools and hammocks) BARAZA-ZANZIBAR.COM N.W. and D.S. are steps from the sea. The best GILI LANKANFUSHI, Maldives part: Parrot Cay is a nonstop “With its stylish thatch-roof flight (plus a 45-minute boat bungalows, underground wine A picnic on Koh Rong ride) from a bunch of U.S. cit- cellar, organic vegetable garden, Island ies. Eden on your doorstep.” FROM and incomparable service, Gili $550, COMOHOTELS.COM T.M. Lankanfushi remains the gold NKWICHI LODGE, Mozambique standard of barefoot luxury.” “Mainland Africa’s most roman- FROM $1,839, INCLUDING BREAKFAST, GILI- tic beach, on the shores of Lake LANKANFUSHI.COM L.W. Malawi, has white powder sand, crystal clear water, and no BELMOND HOTEL SPLENDIDO, Portofino, crocs! There are lots of hidden Italy “It’s on a hill overlooking Porto- coves for private, lazy after- fino’s glittering harbor, so the views noons in the sun. Some of the are breathtaking, as are the rooms and five chalets and private houses gardens. As for the staff, they couldn’t have luxurious baths built right LAUCALA ISLAND, Fiji “The late be more gracious. You could spend all into the rocks.” FROM $660, INCLUDING Malcolm Forbes’s private island day hiking in Cinque Terre and then ALL MEALS, NKWICHI.COM C.B. is 3,500 acres but has only 25 pitch up on the terrace for an aperitif guest villas, each with its own

CHI LODGE not looking your best, yet still feel infinity pool. There’s an 18-hole extremely welcome.” FROM $624, BELMOND.COM course, a dive center, a spa, Andrea Grisdale, IC Bellagio five restaurants, and a staff that caters to every whim. Few places are as heart-stoppingly

HE ZANZIBAR COLLECTION; LEADING HOTELS HE ZANZIBAR COLLECTION; LEADING HOTELS AMANPULO, “It’s tropi- beautiful, or decadent.” FROM cal paradise on a private island, $4,600, INCLUDING MEALS, HOUSE WINES, AND RT OF T RT N RESORTS (AMANPULO); NKWI N RESORTS only an hour’s flight from SPIRITS, LAUCALA.COM T.M. A thatched by charter plane. Swim- villa at ming, snorkeling, diving, and North Island fishing are the main draw, but the spa and fitness center have enough offerings to keep you VILA SEREIA, Brazil “You’ll find occupied for a week.” FROM $1,100,

ISRAELE (VILA SEREIA); AMA AMANRESORTS.COM ELSEWHERE, Goa, India A a rustic peace on the island of Richard Bruce “Four Boipeba, off the coast of Salva- Turen, Churchill & Turen simply furnished cottages on dor, and this is one of the few the best beach in the area, hotels in Brazil where the bun- with little to do except relax galows are right on the sand. and enjoy. Nearby is one of the Expect to be totally pampered chicest parts of Goa, with cool by the owner. From Salvador beach boutiques (including Jade you can take public transport or Jagger’s) and our favorite res- a taxi, speed boat, or plane.” FROM BEDARRA, Great Barrier Reef taurant in the area, the always $114, ILHABOIPEBA.ORG Paul Irvine, “This wonderfully relaxed all- hip La Plage.” FROM $185, ASEASCAPE

COMO HOTELS AND RESORTS (PARROT CAY); BARAZA RESORT AND SPA/PA BARAZA RESORT CAY); (PARROT COMO HOTELS AND RESORTS OF THE WORLD (LAUCALA ISLAND); LILYAN Dehouche Travel inclusive property caters to .COM B. and V.D. T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 67 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM THE T&C TRAVEL 100 CLASSIC HOTELS

location on Carlos Place. Then Everyone should experience it there’s its flawless service, clas- at least once in a lifetime.” FROM sic architecture, famous cock- $415, SIRENUSE.IT A.G. tail bar, great high tea, hidden Aman spa (with a pool!), and the HOTEL SACHER, Vienna “It has his- Eagle’s Lodge suite—one of my LE SIRENUSE, Positano, Italy “The tory, charm, and class in spades. favorite city suites in the world.” hotel just ticks every box. It’s The Gürtler family, who have FROM $897, THE-CONNAUGHT.CO.UK M.B. a lovely size, and it has a prime owned the hotel since the 1930s, location in the heart of Posi- are all still very hands-on. The tano, with everything you want HOTEL DE RUSSIE, Rome “It has entire property was recently on your doorstep. The owner is the perfect location, near the renovated, but they’ve man- extremely warm and welcom- Spanish Steps, exemplary ser- aged to keep the historic feel. ing, the rooms are beautiful, vice, and some of Rome’s best And the Blaue Bar is one of the the pieces of art precious, and shopping, just moments away.” best spots in all of Vienna.” FROM GRAND-HOTEL DU CAP FERRAT, stories about the hotel’s color- FROM $952, ROCCOFORTEHOTELS.COM/HOTEL- $566, SACHER.COM G.K. “There’s an aura to this ful history could fill a library. DE-RUSSIE R.B.T. place, the ne plus ultra of seaside resorts, that has never faded. But it has been notoriously unfriendly over the years. Now The living room that it’s part of the Four Seasons of a riad within group, that should change.” FROM the gardens of ESPLANADE ZAGREB, Croatia “One $327, FOURSEASONS.COM/CAPFERRAT T.M. La Mamounia of Europe’s great luxury hotels. It was built in the 1920s for the passengers from the Orient Express, and it still radiates the glamour of the Art Deco age.” FROM $163, ESPLANADE.HR Alex Datsev, Exeter International HOTEL PLAZA ATHENEE, Paris “If you get a room with a balcony and a view of the Eiffel Tower, you feel as if you could almost touch it. I adore the Alain Ducasse restaurant overlooking the Tuileries, and the breakfast, CLARIDGE’S, London “It’s very a proper sit-down affair with British and very elegant. There’s feather-light croissants and the one story about the hotel that most delicious coffee ever.” FROM I just love. Somebody calls the $868, DORCHESTERCOLLECTION.COM J.M. front desk and asks to speak to the king. The desk clerk says, ‘Which king, sir? We have three staying here at the moment.’ And they did!” FROM $782, CLARIDGES .COM.UK Jane McCrum, In Any LA MAMOUNIA, Marrakech “It exudes a Event GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO, Lake sense of place like almost nowhere else Como “It’s a classic dating from I have ever been. As you sit on your 1910 and smack on the lake. terrace, listening to the birdsong and Greta Garbo stayed in Room looking at the palm and orange trees in 113. But the decor has been the garden and the snowcapped Atlas updated—you’re not staying Mountains just beyond, it makes you in a dried-up fossil.” FROM $459, want to move to Marrakech.” FROM $578, , London “It GRANDHOTELTREMEZZO.COM. Brian Dore MAMOUNIA.COM J.Z. has buckets of character and and Maria Gabriella Landers,

charm, starting with its magical Concierge in Umbria GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO LAKE COMO; CHRISTOPH HOTEL GROUP (CLARIDGE’S); THE CONNAUGHT; HOTEL SACHER WIEN; ESPLANADE ZAGREB ARCHIVE; MAYBOURNE HOTELS (HOTEL DE RUSSIE); LA MAMOUNIA YDO SOL IMAGES (LE SIRENUSE); ROCCO FORTE MANUEL ZUBLENA (HOTEL DU CAP FERRAT); KICHERER (HOTEL PLAZA ATHENEE); T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 68 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM Bemelmans Bar. Plus, Woody A corridor at Allen sometimes plays with the Goring his jazz band.” FROM $720, ROSEWOOD HOTELS.COM M.B.

HOTEL MARIA CRISTINA, San Sebastian, Spain “Opened in 1912, it feels historic and grand, but it was redone a few years ago, so there’s also a vibrancy to the place. Anyone who is anyone ALVEAR PALACE, Buenos Aires stays here during the annual “It’s Buenos Aires Belle Epoque film festival.”FROM $697, HOTELMARIA preserved, with an ever- CRISTINA.COM J.Z. fashionable lobby bar and per- fect butlers.” FROM $420, ALVEARPALACE .COM M.B.

PERA PALACE HOTEL JUMEIRAH, Istanbul “The original luxury hotel in Istanbul—it dates back PENINSULA HONG KONG “It may to 1892—was renovated a few be almost 100 years old, but the years back and is classier than Peninsula continues to outdo ever. The views of the Golden itself. The service, food, bar, and Horn are magical, and it’s ideally attention to detail are all second located, in the Beyoglu district, to none. It’s the best hotel in the within walking distance of great world, in my opinion.” FROM $449, restaurants and nightspots.” FROM PENINSULA.COM Gerald Hatherly, $292, JUMEIRAH.COM E.S. Abercrombie & Kent

THE GORING, London “A masterpiece that is still family-owned. The access to the British Museum is just so much topping on the treacle tart.” FROM $536, THEGORING.COM R.B.T. FOUR SEASONS SULTANAHMET, LE BRISTOL, Paris “It’s quintes- Istanbul “Istanbul’s famous neo- sential Parisian elegance, the classical prison turned hotel is kind of hotel you stay in during still the best address in the Old your first dream set in the city.” City. It has lovely Ottoman FROM $750, LEBRISTOLPARIS.COM R.B.T. details and breathtaking views , Jodhpur of Hagia Sophia from the roof- “It was commissioned by Maha- top terrace and several suites. All raja Umaid Singh-ji in the 1920s the major sites, including Top- to give the people of Jodhpur kapi Palace and the Blue Mosque, employment during a period of are just a few minutes’ walk.” FROM $495, FOURSEASONS.COM SOFITEL METROPOLE, Hanoi drought and famine. When it Karen was finished, in the 1940s, it was Fedorko Sefer, Sea Song Tours “Exquisitely renovated, it has one of the world’s largest and the absolute best location, in most opulent private residences, the French Quarter; it radiates with 26 acres of gardens. Stay- Old World European grandeur; ing here is an absolute dream and it’s part of the city’s history. Don’t miss the historical tour and privilege.” FROM $1,543, TAJHOTELS every evening—it visits the .COM B. and V.D. THE CARLYLE, New York “A time- bomb shelter under the bar!” Living the dream at less landmark with so much FROM $216, SOFITEL.COM Sandy Fergu-

THE GORING; HOTEL MARIA CRISTINA, A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL; ; PENINSULA HOTELS; HOTEL LE BRISTOL PARIS; DAVID DINH (SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI); DINH (SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI); DAVID HOTEL; PENINSULA HOTELS; HOTEL LE BRISTOL PARIS; PALACE COLLECTION HOTEL; ALVEAR THE GORING; HOTEL MARIA CRISTINA, A LUXURY HOTEL JUMEIRAH PERA PALACE SULTANAHMET); AT (FOUR SEASONS ISTANBUL THUYSBAERT PAUL PALACE); (UMAID BHAWAN AND PALACES HOTELS RESORTS TAJ DON RIDDLE (THE CARLYLE); Umaid Bhawan history and tradition, and the son, Asia Desk T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 69 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM THE T&C TRAVEL 100 LUXURY IN THE WILD

The living room at Zarafa Dhow

SAN LORENZO MOUNTAIN LODGE, THE THREE CHIMNEYS, Isle of Skye, South Tyrol, Italy “A few years ago Scotland “One of the best restau- the former CEO of Escada and rants in Scotland doubles as an his wife bought a 16th-century elegant small inn. It’s in the mid- hunting lodge on 40 acres in dle of nowhere, on a seaside road the heart of the Dolomites, you’ll swear is headed straight high above a gorgeous valley. to America, but a seafood feast They restored every inch of it and a divine room wait for you using local materials and styles, at the end of the journey.” FROM and turned it into a chic four- $537, THREECHIMNEYS.CO.UK J. M. bedroom chalet with a great sense of place. Wintertime here is sublime, but if you come in the warmer months you can take advantage of the 18-hole .” FROM $2,664, SANLORENZO MOUNTAINLODGE.COM A.G. BOUTIQUE HOTEL QUINTA CHANABNAL, Palenque, Mexico “The incredible archaeological site of Palenque needed a good hotel, and this little gem is it, eight rooms hidden in the jungle just a few miles from the ruins. GLACIER LODGE EQI, Greenland “A s The Italian-German owner, an remote as can be—accessible authority on Mayan culture, only by a five-hour boat ride. modeled it after a royal resi- Accommodations are in mod- dence, complete with a massive ern, minimalist cabins overlook- palapa thatch roof and tradi- ing a fjord and a calving glacier. tional sweat bath. The pool is This isn’t luxury, but being so very pleasant, and the food is close to raw beauty is glorious!” excellent.” FROM $177, QUINTACHANAB ZARAFA DHOW SUITES, Selinda Reserve, FROM $292, GLACIERLODGEEQI.COM M.B. NAL.COM Z.R. Botswana “The two-year-old Zarafa Camp is already one of the finest camps in Botswana, but the property’s two suites, which are less than a 10-minute drive away, are a cut above. The Dhow Suites are actually one huge tent, with a living room and two large bedrooms, fur- GRAND HOTEL KEMPINSKI HIGH ESTANCIA RINCON DEL SOCORRO, nished with leather sofas, Persian car- TATRAS, “Though only “My favorite secluded pets, and copper bathtubs, all meant to two hours from Krakow (three wildlife lodge in South America, evoke the 1920s luxury safari. What’s from Bratislava), this lakeside it’s in the underrated Esteros del outside is just as magical: the Zibadianja Habsburg-era building, set high Iberá wetlands in northeast- Lagoon, where animals big and small in the Slovakian mountains, ern Argentina, accessible by come to linger. This is the African safari feels like another world. You light aircraft (two hours from fantasy realized.” FROM $6,360, GREATPLAINSCON can go walking, hiking, or ski- Iguazu, one from Posadas), or SERVATION.COM/ZARAFA-DHOW-SUITES N.W. and D.S. ing in winter, visit the nearby by driving (off-road) six hours. UNESCO towns, or just do A back-of-beyond location and nothing. The perfect get-away- luxurious accommodations in a from-it-all place.” FROM $158, beautiful ranch home.” FROM $220,

KEMPINSKI.COM G.K. RINCONDELSOCORRO.COM/EN/ P.I. DHOW SUITES); ANGUS BREMNER (THE THREE CHIMNEYS); HOTEL (ZARAFA JOUBERT PLAINS CONSERVATION/BEVERLY GREAT RINO RASMUSSEN (GLACIER LODGE EQI) CHANABNAL; FELIX L. STECK (GRAND HOTEL KEMPINSKI HIGH TATRAS); QUINTA T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 70 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM FOGO ISLAND INN, Newfoundland “Said to be far away from far away, Fogo Island requires two flights and a ferry to reach, and the landscape is all craggy rocks and barren coastline. But I don’t know anyone who has been there who hasn’t fallen deeply in love with the inn, whose purpose is to revive the economy of this former fishing village and pre- serve its traditions. There are little winks at the island’s heritage every- where, and the handcrafted furniture is a modern riff on the island’s boatbuild- ing and woodworking past.” FROM $671, FOGOISLANDINN.CA Marc Telio, Entrée Canada The boatlike exterior of the Fogo Island Inn

game drives at either one. This but nearby you can also go mountains, each is furnished is our idea of heaven.” FROM $433, quad biking, bungee jumping, with Tibetan furniture, textiles, TAJSAFARIS.COM B. and V.D. or horseback riding. This is not and art. There’s a good restau- your typical African safari.” rant that uses locally grown FROM $230, WILD-UGANDA.COM C.B. produce. A truly wonderful AHILYA FORT, India “To reach mountain experience.” FROM $154, Ahilya Fort, an 18th-century SONGTSAM.COM G.H. fortress turned extraordinary small hotel on the banks of the vast Narmada River, you need to GALAPAGOS SAFARI CAMP, fly to Indore, then drive 59 miles. “One of the first luxury But it’s worth the trouble. This eco-camps in the Galápagos, it TSWALU KALAHARI RESERVE, place, right next to an ancient accommodates only 24 guests South Africa “Surrounded by temple, has just 13 rooms, includ- and is built sustainably in the 220,000 acres of monumen- WOLWEDANS BOULDERS CAMP, ing a large tent, all surrounded highlands on the island of Santa tal mountains and wilderness Namibia “In the Namib desert of by shady courtyards and pretty Cruz. You might wake up to in the heart of the Kalahari southern Namibia, an area sur- gardens.” FROM $287, AHILYAFORT.COM find a 100-year-old giant tor- Desert, this is one of the larg- rounded by massive boulder B. and V.D. toise slumbering next to your est privately owned conserva- outcrops and vast open spaces, tent.” FROM $695, GALAPAGOSSAFARICAMP tion areas in Africa. Spend the this is a luxe base to return to .COM A.N. days on game drives or bush after your days of walking safa- walks, riding horses, and visit- ris, treading the ancient hunting ing archaeological sites. At sun- grounds of the Bushmen.” FROM set the staff sets up lanterns on $481, WOLWEDANS.COM C.B. the sand dunes, just in time for MAHUA KOTHI AND BANJAAR drinks under that immense sky.” TOLA, India “The best place FROM $846, TSWALU.COM J.H. to see India’s most majestic WILDWATERS LODGE, Uganda “On tigers are in Bandhavgarh and an island in the middle of the Kanha National Parks, in the Nile, this lodge has 10 chalets, state of Madhya Pradesh. Our with six perched above the MIKENO LODGE, Democratic Repub- two favorite camps there are rapids—a great spot for spy- lic of the Congo “This jewel within very different from each other. ing on the wildlife of the Virunga National Park has a Mahua Kothi is more old- Wildwaters Reserve. You’ll SONGTSAM LODGES, Yunnan, China dozen spacious, luxurious bun- fashioned, Banjaar Tola more see throngs of river otters and “A series of exquisite eight- to galows, each with beautiful modern, but both spoil you giant monitor lizards, as well 10-room lodges surrounded views of the Rift Valley and the rotten, and you’re practically as hundreds of birds. Rafting by high mountain valleys, Nyiragongo and Mikeno volca-

ALEX FRADKIN (FOGO ISLAND INN); RESORTS AND PALACES (MAHUA KOTHI, BANJAAR TOLA); AHILYA FORT; SONGTSAM LODGE; SONGTSAM LODGE; FORT; (MAHUA KOTHI, BANJAAR TOLA); AHILYA AND PALACES HOTELS RESORTS ALEX FRADKIN (FOGO ISLAND INN); TAJ CAMP SAFARI LUANNE CADD (MIKENO LODGE); GALAPAGOS LODGE; WOLWEDANS; WILDWATER KALAHARI RESERVE; TSWALU guaranteed to see tigers on on the Nile is the main event, alpine meadows, and sacred noes.” FROM $244, VISITVIRUNGA.ORG C.B. T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 71 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM Outdoor dining at Dar Ahlam

TIERRA PATAGONIA HOTEL & SPA, Chile Tierra “An ultramodern hideaway Patagonia’s in one of the planet’s most Uma Spa spectacular landscapes, at the eastern edge of Torres del Paine National Park. James Bond would look right at home at the bar.” FROM $2,250, TIERRAHOTELS.COM Ashton Palmer, ExpeditionTrips

DAR AHLAM, Skoura Oasis, Morocco “You’re in a rebuilt kasbah in a Saharan oasis a five-hour drive from Marrakech, yet you’re in the lap of bespoke luxury, each THE BRANDO, experience custom-made. Fabulous “We’ve all heard about it, but excursions include a night in a desert hardly anyone ever got to camp in the dunes. You’ll never want to see Marlon Brando’s legend- leave.” FROM $537, MAISONDESREVES.COM ary hideaway, and now that J.Z. we have, it’s even better than we imagined. Brando bought a string of 12 islets; the new enthusiasts remarkable access or Kununurra, the lodge has resort is on one of them, with to the splendor of New Zea- elegant guest villas with unin- 35 humongous beach villas sur- land’s Southern Alps.” FROM $1,319, terrupted vistas of the Timor rounded by absolutely nothing MINARETSTATION.COM R.B.T. Sea, River, and the but a translucent sea. It’s the rugged Australian Outback. place for anyone looking for AMANKORA, Bhutan “Visitors Creature comforts can include absolute privacy, but unlike usually travel among the five gourmet meals tailored to suit other luxury hideouts, this one Amankora lodges, which are individual tastes.” FROM $600, is relatively accessible, especially built high in the Himalayas. BERKELEYRIVER.COM.AU S.R. from the West Coast.” FROM $2,623, Each one takes full advantage THEBRANDO.COM T.M. of its spectacular mountain MUANG LA RESORT, Laos “A six- setting. These are remarkable hour drive from Luang Prabang, properties that make you think this is a charming ecolodge that about who you are and what was built among the mists of you can be.” FROM $930, AMANRESORTS the ancient forest, next to a nat- .COM R.B.T. ural hot spring.” FROM $280, MUANGLA SIX SENSES LAAMU, Maldives .COM/EN S. F. “The only resort in the Laamu FOUR SEASONS TENTED CAMP, Atoll, Six Senses is an amazing Golden Triangle, “The tents place for snorkeling and div- here are beautifully appointed ing. If you want utterly pri- and suggest a luxe version of vate and remote, the property Dr. Livingstone–meets–Henry has its own deserted island Stanley: all teak wood and colo- MINARET STATION, New Zealand “A a 30-minute boat ride away, nial charm. Tour the surrounding luxury lodge with chalets set in BERKELEY RIVER LODGE, Kimber- which might be the most beau- area on an elephant’s back.” FROM a glacial valley accessible only ley Coast, Australia “Accessible only tiful spot in the Indian Ocean.”

$1,959, FOURSEASONS.COM G.H. by helicopter, allowing outdoor by a scenic flight from Darwin FROM $856, SIXSENSES.COM L.W. SIX SENSES HOTELS (DAR AHLAM); THE BRANDO; MINARET STATION; RELAIS & CHATEAUX TIERRA HOTELS (TIERRA PATAGONIA); (AMANKORA); FOUR SEASONS TENTED CAMP; BERKELEY RIVER LODGE MUANG LA RESORT; SPAS; RESORTS T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 72 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM THE T&C TRAVEL 100 CITY SUITES

that make this one of the fin- The private balcony overlooking Soltykoff, and the sitting room/ est pieces of real estate in Cape Warsaw’s Royal Route is to die ballroom is a perfect place Town. It’s a hell of a place to for.” FROM $2,530, HOTELBRISTOLWARSAW for entertaining. We recently throw a party, and, luckily, the .PL/EN G.K. threw a party here for 50 penthouse comes with a butler people.” FROM $3,826, THEIMPERIALINDIA ATIK PASHA SUITE, FOUR and chef to help with that.” FROM .COM B. and V.D. SEASONS BOSPHORUS, Istanbul “A $6,255, THEROYALPORTFOLIO.COM J.H. modern-day Ottoman palace: 15-foot ceilings, a private ham- mam, and spectacular views of the Bosphorus.” FROM $25,337, ROYAL IMPERIAL SUITE, THE FOURSEASONS.COM/BOSPHORUS K.F.S. IMPERIAL HOTEL, New Delhi “Like the hotel itself, this suite oozes WINTER GARDEN SUITES, ARARAT LA MANSION PRESIDENTIAL history. Much of the fine detail PARK HYATT, Moscow “All recently SUITE, FOUR SEASONS, Buenos of India’s partition agree- redone, with floor-to-ceiling Aires “The 2,000 square feet of ment was worked out here windows overlooking the Bol- this historic mansion come with by Nehru, Gandhi, Jinnah, shoi Theatre and the Kremlin. a private balcony overlooking and Lord Mountbatten. The A good excuse to have break- SYDNEY SUITE, PARK HYATT, the hotel gardens, 18th-century walls are covered with fabu- fast in your room!” FROM $1,638, Sydney “Nearly 3,900 square feet antiques, and a splendid marble lous artworks by Prince Alexis PARK.HYATT.COM G. T. overlooking Sydney Harbor, bathtub where Madonna, who with a state-of-the-art kitchen, stayed here during the film- steam room, and sauna. And the ing of Evita, is said to have THE ROYAL SUITE, FOUR SEASONS, views! Even the $7,400 music- taken daily ice baths.” FROM $465, Florence “If you want to see what it was playing toilet has one.” FROM FOURSEASONS.COM P.I. like to be a Medici, book the Royal $12,577, SYDNEY.PARK.HYATT.COM S.R. Suite. It’s covered in frescoes and filled with chandeliers and exquisite furni- ture, but somehow it doesn’t seem over- done. It still feels bright and airy—like your very own palazzo in Florence.” ROYAL PENTHOUSE, THE CORIN- FROM $17,288; FOURSEASONS/FLORENCE T.M. PRESIDENTIAL SUITE, MANDARIN THIA, London “Seriously opulent: ORIENTAL, Tokyo “It has the right a wine cellar, private lift, state- blend of size, very high-end of-the-art study, and, most furnishings and amenities, and striking, a huge terrace with incredible views, including (on an unbelievable view over the a clear day) Mount Fuji.” FROM Thames. There is no better spot $11,270; MANDARINORIENTAL.COM/TOKYO D. T. in London for watching New Year’s fireworks.” FROM $28,113, CORINTHIA.COM J.E.

THE ONE ABOVE PENTHOUSE, THE ROYAL PORTFOLIO, Cape Town “Two stories spread over PADEREWSKI SUITE, THE BRISTOL a colossal 15,000 square feet, HOTEL, Warsaw “It may not be as it has everything you’d want modern or up-to-date as other in your penthouse apartment, grand suites, but talk about his- including a private gym, two tory! Jan Paderewski, piano vir- pools, an outdoor bar, and access tuoso and onetime Polish prime to a very well-stocked wine cel- minister, built the hotel in 1901 The opulent lar. But it’s the wraparound ter- and lived in this suite (now a hall of the

CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON; MATTHEW SHAW (HOTEL BRISTOL WARSAW); HYATT HOTELS & RESORTS (ARARAT PARK HYATT, PARK HYATT SYDNEY); XAVIER VERSTRAETEN (FOUR SEASONS BUENOS VERSTRAETEN (FOUR SEASONS BUENOS SYDNEY); XAVIER HYATT PARK HYATT, PARK (ARARAT HOTELS & RESORTS HYATT (HOTEL BRISTOL WARSAW); SHAW ; MATTHEW (FOUR SEASONS BOSPHORUS) TOKYO; BARBARA KRAFT (FOURS SEASONS FLORENCE); PETER VITALE (THE ONE ABOVE); MANDARIN ORIENTAL, PORTFOLIO AIRES); THE ROYAL races with 360-degree vistas national monument) off and on. Royal Suite T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 73 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM THE T&C TRAVEL 100 FAMILY GETAWAYS

PADASTE MANOR, MONTAGE LAGUNA BEACH, “Bike, hike, and boat all day— “Kids and adults love you’re on Muhu Island, in the this place equally, with all Baltic—then come in for a rooms facing the ocean, a dedi- four-course gourmet dinner. cated kids pool, tide pools, and a Pädaste is perfectly done and terrific kids club. The staff also A private pool at ideal for families looking for go the extra mile—it welcomes the One & Only Wolgan Valley time together, outdoor activi- children before they arrive, and ties, and history.” FROM $187, SLH sends a funny postcard months .COM/PADASTE G. T. later.” FROM $795, MONTAGEHOTELS.COM EMIRATES ONE & ONLY, Wolgan Valley, R.B.T. Australia “It’s like a posh summer camp for families. Wolgan Valley’s wide open spaces and array of nature-based activi- ties will particularly appeal to older children. Horseback riding, mountain biking, archery, and uniquely Austra- , Scotland “Sure, it’s lian wildlife encounters ensure that the famous for its golf courses, but RITZ-CARLTON BACHELOR GULCH, kids (and grown-ups) get outdoors and there’s so much else to do: hik- Beaver Creek, Colorado “There’s a active. Each of the freestanding guest ing, fishing, , archery, ‘ski nanny’ who delivers the suites has its own private plunge pool, off-road driving (in a Range children to their lessons, keeps and there’s a shared playroom packed Rover). There’s also an equestrian them entertained afterward, with books, games, toys, and craft sup- center, a kids club, a spa, beauti- and brings them back at the end plies, as well as a kids menu at the res- ful swimming pools, and four of the day. At night the whole taurant and babysitting services.” FROM restaurants, including one that family can go ziplining, ice $1,493, WOLGANVALLEY.ONEANDONLYRESORTS.COM S.R. specializes in Scotch beef and skating, or snowmobiling off another that has two Michelin the property, then consult with stars. I can’t think of a place bet- the ‘s’mores sommelier’ back ter suited for a sporty family.” at the resort. He can help with FROM $398, GLENEAGLES.COM J.E. those really tough decisions, like what kind of chocolate to put on your graham cracker.” FROM $329, RITZCARLTON.COM/BACHELORGULCH Meg Austin, The Travel Society

LLAO LLAO HOTEL & RESORT, AWASI ATACAMA, Chile “It’s always MANDARIN ORIENTAL, Bodrum, Argentina “In a remote lakeside a real hit, principally because Turkey “A sophisticated resort on location, yet still less than an the staff are very switched- a picture-perfect coastline that hour’s drive from the Bariloche on. It gives the kids their own caters to kids as well as grown- airport, it’s a superb and hassle- travel diaries, organizes treasure ups. There’s a children’s pool, a KIAWAH RESORT, South Carolina free option for families. Room hunts, sets up arts and crafts playground, a complimentary “It has a charming Southern rates include a daily kids club sessions with local artisans, kids club, a kids menu, and a feel, a beautiful coastline, and for three- to 10-year-olds, with and teaches astronomy classes, video game room for teenagers. a wealth of programs for kids a wide array of activities, from among the dozens of activities. Plus, babysitting services in case of all ages, like dolphin excur- painting and cooking classes to There is a slight educational you want to go to the spa for a sions, alligator walks, tideland nature walks in the woods, and, slant to most of the programs, few hours—and trust me, you treasure hunts, sailing lessons, for older kids, guided mountain- which is always popular with do.” FROM $1,200, MANDARINORIENTAL.COM/ and a family Olympics.” FROM $240, bike rides and rappelling.” FROM the parents.” FROM $2,480 FOR A THREE-

BODRUM K.F.S. KIAWAHRESORT.COM M.B. $245, LLAOLLAO.COM P.I. NIGHT STAY, AWASIATACAMA.COM P.I. GOLF-SPA; LLAO HOTEL & RESORT ATACAMA; AWASI ONE & ONLY; LAGUNA BEACH); EMIRATES MANOR); BARBARA KRAFT (MONTAGE JOHANNES HOIMOJA (PADASTE LLC (BACHELOR GULCH) HOTEL COMPANY BODRUM); THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL; RITZ-CARLTON GEORGE APOSTOULIS (MANDARIN ORIENTAL RESORT); CHRIS ROGERS (KIAWAH T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 74 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM THE RANCH AT ROCK CREEK, Montana “Its Granite Lodge gives you lush mountain scenery and a fairly authentic Western experience (rodeo, stagecoach rides). In the warmer months you can go fly-fishing, mountain biking, and more. In winter there’s cross-country skiing, snow- mobiling, ice skating. There’s even a bowling alley.” FROM $800, THERANCHATROCKCREEK.COM T.M. A trail ride at the Ranch at Rock Creek

CLAYOQUOT WILDERNESS RESORT, Vancouver Island “I’ve come here for years. It’s one of the few places where we have always been comfortable letting the chil- dren do their own thing—feeding the horses or using the trampoline. Between TIERRA ATACAMA, Chile “It isn’t GROOTBOS, South Africa the kayaking, whale-watching trips, and quite as upscale or as private as “It may sound boring—a nature bear watching, there’s something for Awasi—at Tierra you can dine reserve outside Hermanus, everyone. And the safari-style tents are at communal tables and go on southeast of Cape Town— wonderful.” FROM $4,550 FOR ADULTS, $2,274 FOR excursions with other guests. but it’s not. The landscape is CHILDREN (FOR FOUR NIGHTS), WILDRETREAT.COM M.T. But that’s part of the fun. Tierra exquisite, the resort’s modern is also family-owned, so the design is stunning, and it offers service feels very personal and many fun activities, including old-fashioned.” FROM $1,350 (FOR whale watching from a small TWO NIGHTS), TIERRAHOTELS.COM Marisol plane and overnight hiking and Mosquera, Aracari camping trips.” FROM $220, GROOTBOS .COM J.Z.

SARUNI SAMBURU, “Not only does it have immense fam- AMANBAGH, Jaipur, India “This ily ‘villas’ with two bedrooms, place is tried-and-true, based and two pools at the camp, but on my stay with my two- and the expertly trained guides are four-year-olds. The highlights all Samburu warriors—a big included a camel ride in the thrill for the kids. Aside from countryside and a visit to the game drives and bush walks, the surrounding villages, where the guides teach basic warrior we met local children. We also skills (how to throw a spear, loved the heated swimming track an animal, build a fire), and pool, the bicycles available to they take you to nearby villages borrow, and the army of staff The dining tent and schools. It’s not touristy but intent on making sure we were at Clayoquot as authentic as it gets.” FROM $460 FOR all happy. We never wanted to ADULTS, $240 FOR CHILDREN, SARUNISAMBURU leave.” FROM $550, AMANRESORTS.COM B.

RANCH AT ROCK CREEK; GROOTBOS; AMAN RESORTS (AMANBAGH); STEVIE MANN (SARUNI SAMBURU); TIERRA (AMANBAGH); STEVIE MANN (SARUNI SAMBURU); TIERRA ROCK CREEK; GROOTBOS; AMAN RESORTS RANCH AT WILDERNESS RESORT) (CLAYOQUOT RELAIS & CHATEAUX HOTELS (TIERRA ATACAMA); .COM N.W. and D.S. and V.D. « T&C TRAVEL FALL/WINTER 2015 75 TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM