Exploring Unspoiled Sardinia Memorable Restaurants Beyond the Costa Smeralda
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SEPTEMBER 2015 | OUR 37TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES ANCIENT LANDSCAPES, DISTINCTIVE CUISINE, SURPRISING WINES THIS MONTH A MEDITERRANEAN ISLAND ROAD TRIP Charming small hotels and Exploring Unspoiled Sardinia memorable restaurants beyond the Costa Smeralda BAHAMAS UPDATE Contrasting resorts on Eleuthera, Harbour Island and Andros WEB EXCLUSIVES Look for these symbols, then visit the Hideaway Report at AndrewHarper.com. = additional related article = slideshow = video IN THE NEWS Komodo Cruise AMANRESORTS is best known for refined boutique hotels, but the company also has boats of various kinds. The latest is Amandira, a 170-foot, Faro Capo-Spartivento two-masted sailing hotel near Chia vessel — a type known PHOTO BY ROBERTO PATTI as a phinisi — which now operates from Amanwana WHENEVER I RETURN TO THE COSTA SMERALDA, WITH ITS WAVE-SCULPTED BOULDERS on the Indonesian island of Moyo. The five cabins and steep cliffs alternating with white-sand beaches backed by azure sea, I not only fall all come with living areas in love with Sardinia all over again, but also feel a powerful urge to explore Italy’s second- and spacious baths; two offer king-size beds. A largest island more thoroughly. For some reason, however, though I’ve appreciated this dive master is among the dramatic northeastern shore for decades, the rest of Sardinia has remained a mystery. crew of 14. Expeditions include a five- or seven- So finally, this past spring, I undertook a 10- After two days in Cagliari, where the Museo night cruise through day driving tour of the island. We began on the Archeologico Nazionale provides an essential lesson Raja Ampat, one of the world’s most spectacular southern coast in Cagliari, Sardinia’s largest city, in Sardinia’s long and complex history, we drove marine areas. Amandira and finished in Alghero, a beautiful medieval southwest out of the city over the bridges and viaducts also cruises for seven town in the northwest. The island we discovered crossing salt pans that have been in use at least since nights through the Nusa remains wild and spectacular, with small hotels of the Romans arrived on the island. Flocks of pink Tenggara island chain, comfort and character, delicious food, unexpectedly flamingos punctuated the mirror-like waters, and home of the ferocious Komodo dragon, which excellent wines, fascinating archaeological the air was scented by the white and pink oleander can grow to a length of sites, intriguing little towns and miles of empty lining the well-maintained roads. Our destination 10 feet. beach. Sardinia has a resilient identity and has was the sunken Phoenician city of Nora, which is More travel news online jealously preserved its distinct dialect and culture. best known for its superb mosaics. Little else has For full-service travel planning, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Wineries SARDINIA’S WINES have improved greatly during the last few years, thanks to a new generation of independent wine- makers that has taken Roasted suckling pig over the vineyards. The at Lanthia Resort island is best known for its signature red, the potent, peppery Lounging beside the infinity Cannonau, the local name pool with a book and getting lost in for the Grenache grape. the ever-changing spectacle of the Cannonau pairs well with “ sea is profoundly therapeutic. grilled and roasted meat. Infinity pool at Faro Capo-Spartivento Vermentino, a fresh, PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER green-tinged white wine from Gallura (a region of survived, and it requires an active imagination to high winds, and the Internet connection is feeble. northern Sardinia) is an conjure a thriving city from the ancient stones. The This turns out to be a gift, of course, since lounging ideal choice with seafood. setting on a strategic peninsula, however, affords beside the infinity pool with a book and getting Perhaps the best producer magnificent views of the coast and its sturdy guard lost in the ever-changing spectacle of the sea is in the Gallura DOCG (“Controlled Designation towers and lighthouses constructed by successive profoundly therapeutic. Overall, the hotel is a very of Origin Guaranteed”) civilizations. private place, with a variety of secluded nooks that is Capichera. Beyond allow guests to be alone and out of the public eye. the Gallura Vermentinos, I discovered my favorite perch when I climbed the another excellent Capo Spartivento producer is the Argiolas spiral cast-iron lighthouse-keeper’s staircase to the winery just outside of fter leaving Nora, we followed a series of last floor below the actual beacon. (The light is still Cagliari. Its cantina white, Aminor roads running parallel to the beautiful in service.) Here, I found two chairs and a telescope Costamolino, a crisp beaches in and around the small resort town of Chia. for ship-spotting. Vermentino blend with Eventually, we found ourselves on the unpaved trail Because of its remote location, we ate dinner a note of green apple, is found on wine lists all over that leads to the Faro Capo-Spartivento hotel. The at the hotel during our stay. Happily, the chef had the island. Anyone visiting ocher-colored stone lighthouse, built in 1856 by the worked in St. Moritz for many years, and his food Oliena should stop by the Italian navy, has recently been converted into an was superb, with dishes such as octopus carpaccio, Cantina Gostolai, where a intimate hotel with just six junior suites (request one gnocchi with mussels in a zucchini sauce, and grilled friendly former school- of the two Sea View Suites, which offer spectacular teacher offers a fasci- tuna with herbs and tomatoes. The wine list was nating lesson in Cannonau 360-degree views over the coastline and hinterland). brief but interesting, and service in the dining room wines. Another Cannonau The design of the hotel respects the original was courtly, quiet and English-speaking. We left producer to look for is function of the structure — which is an Italian Faro Capo-Spartivento with the intention to return Giuseppe Sedilesu, which national historic monument — but renders it warm makes organic and biody- one day, perhaps having rented the whole place for namic wines. And perhaps and comfortable, with details such as wide oak- a family reunion. the most interesting red plank floors, Murano glass chandeliers, white linen wine in Sardinia today, a curtains and quarry stone-lined baths. Although Costa Rei blend of Cannonau with slightly bemused by the circular bed in our suite, two other local grapes, which followed the curves of the tower, we found he following morning, we retraced our route Muristellu and Monica, is made by Fradiles, in our quarters to be unexpectedly plush and cozy. Tto Cagliari — about an hour’s drive — on our Atzara in the central Divided in half by massive structural steel girders, way to the town of Villasimius. There, we enjoyed province of Nuoro. the room came with a white canvas sofa and glass- an excellent lunch of spaghetti with spiny lobster topped desk, as well as a large Balinese mirror and swordfish steaks at Da Barbara. Beyond the propped up against one wall. city, the winding road followed the coastline and The point of a stay at Faro Capo-Spartivento offered such spectacular panoramas that we pulled is relaxation. Aside from two nearby white-sand over constantly to enjoy them. The air smelled of beaches fronting transparent turquoise water — Cala salt and wildflowers. Soon we came to Costa Rei, Cannonau Cipolla and Su Giudeu — there is little to do in the a pretty and easygoing resort town on a stretch of grapes vicinity. The phone service can be interrupted by coastline backed by parasol pines. GRAPES: © FRANCESCOMOUFOTOGRAFO / ISTOCK / FRANCESCOMOUFOTOGRAFO © GRAPES: 2 HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2015 The 52-room Villa del Re hotel is a new five- painted walls and oak floors. Junior Suites with star property that opened in June 2014. Set in a private terraces — such as “Baunei,” where we stayed landscaped park, the hotel has a contemporary design — are recommended. These have open-plan baths that makes an effort to fit into the surroundings. Its with Jacuzzi tubs and separate showers, spacious walls are faced with stone in the idiom of Sardinia’s wardrobe areas and excellent lighting. traditional rural architecture. The centerpiece of The highlight of our stay at Lanthia, however, the property is an Olympic-size pool surrounded was the exceptional restaurant, which specializes by a wooden deck and overlooking a private beach. in traditional Sardinian cooking. The good-value For a luxury hotel, the Classic and Superior prix-fixe menu included an appetizer of local rooms are small, so it’s preferable to book a Junior charcuterie and cheese, Sardinian ravioli, roasted Suite. The décor is Italian beach house chic, with suckling pig with rosemary-roasted potatoes, and whitewashed walls, limed oak floors and antiqued, a delicious Sardinian cheesecake. Complimentary Bookshelf ivory-painted wooden furniture. The lighting is good, shots of ice-cold Mirto — a potent, dark-purple the beds are comfortable and the baths are well- Sardinian liqueur made with wild myrtle berries The essential volume for Sardinia is D.H. Lawrence’s equipped. Overall, La Villa del Re is fineLake for a night’s and leaves — concluded this feast and assured an C omo “Sea and Sardinia.” This Lake stay during a driving tour,Maggior but Ie don’t recommend exceptionally good night’s sleep. short work describes the it as a destination hotel. The food was lackluster weeklong train journey MILAN MILAN that he made around the during our visit,PIEDMONT and, for an extended stay, there Oliena 0 30 MI island with his wife, Frieda, are better resorts elsewhere on the island.