SEPTEMBER 2015 | OUR 37TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

ANCIENT LANDSCAPES, DISTINCTIVE CUISINE, SURPRISING WINES THIS MONTH

A MEDITERRANEAN ISLAND ROAD TRIP Charming small hotels and Exploring Unspoiled memorable restaurants beyond the Costa Smeralda

BAHAMAS UPDATE Contrasting resorts on Eleuthera, Harbour Island and Andros

WEB EXCLUSIVES Look for these symbols, then visit the Hideaway Report at AndrewHarper.com.  = additional related article  = slideshow  = video

IN THE NEWS Komodo Cruise AMANRESORTS is best known for refined boutique hotels, but the company also has boats of various kinds. The latest is Amandira, a 170-foot, Faro Capo-Spartivento two-masted sailing hotel near Chia

vessel — a type known PHOTO BY ROBERTO PATTI as a phinisi — which now operates from Amanwana WHENEVER I RETURN TO THE COSTA SMERALDA, WITH ITS WAVE-SCULPTED BOULDERS on the Indonesian island of Moyo. The five cabins and steep cliffs alternating with white-sand beaches backed by azure sea, I not only fall all come with living areas in love with Sardinia all over again, but also feel a powerful urge to explore ’s second- and spacious baths; two offer king-size beds. A largest island more thoroughly. For some reason, however, though I’ve appreciated this dive master is among the dramatic northeastern shore for decades, the rest of Sardinia has remained a mystery. crew of 14. Expeditions include a five- or seven- So finally, this past spring, I undertook a 10- After two days in , where the Museo night cruise through day driving tour of the island. We began on the Archeologico Nazionale provides an essential lesson Raja Ampat, one of the world’s most spectacular southern coast in Cagliari, Sardinia’s largest city, in Sardinia’s long and complex history, we drove marine areas. Amandira and finished in Alghero, a beautiful medieval southwest out of the city over the bridges and viaducts also cruises for seven town in the northwest. The island we discovered crossing salt pans that have been in use at least since nights through the Nusa remains wild and spectacular, with small hotels of the Romans arrived on the island. Flocks of pink Tenggara island chain, comfort and character, delicious food, unexpectedly flamingos punctuated the mirror-like waters, and home of the ferocious Komodo dragon, which excellent wines, fascinating archaeological the air was scented by the white and pink oleander can grow to a length of sites, intriguing little towns and miles of empty lining the well-maintained roads. Our destination 10 feet. beach. Sardinia has a resilient identity and has was the sunken Phoenician city of Nora, which is  More travel news online jealously preserved its distinct dialect and culture. best known for its superb mosaics. Little else has

For full-service travel planning, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Wineries SARDINIA’S WINES have improved greatly during the last few years, thanks to a new generation of independent wine- makers that has taken Roasted suckling pig over the vineyards. The at Lanthia Resort island is best known for its signature red, the potent, peppery Lounging beside the infinity Cannonau, the local name pool with a book and getting lost in for the Grenache grape. the ever-changing spectacle of the Cannonau pairs well with “ sea is profoundly therapeutic. grilled and roasted meat. Infinity pool at Faro Capo-Spartivento Vermentino, a fresh, PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER green-tinged white wine from (a region of survived, and it requires an active imagination to high winds, and the Internet connection is feeble. northern Sardinia) is an conjure a thriving city from the ancient stones. The This turns out to be a gift, of course, since lounging ideal choice with seafood. setting on a strategic peninsula, however, affords beside the infinity pool with a book and getting Perhaps the best producer magnificent views of the coast and its sturdy guard lost in the ever-changing spectacle of the sea is in the Gallura DOCG (“Controlled Designation towers and lighthouses constructed by successive profoundly therapeutic. Overall, the hotel is a very of Origin Guaranteed”) civilizations. private place, with a variety of secluded nooks that is Capichera. Beyond allow guests to be alone and out of the public eye. the Gallura Vermentinos, I discovered my favorite perch when I climbed the another excellent Capo Spartivento producer is the Argiolas spiral cast-iron lighthouse-keeper’s staircase to the winery just outside of fter leaving Nora, we followed a series of last floor below the actual beacon. (The light is still Cagliari. Its cantina white, Aminor roads running parallel to the beautiful in service.) Here, I found two chairs and a telescope Costamolino, a crisp beaches in and around the small resort town of Chia. for ship-spotting. Vermentino blend with Eventually, we found ourselves on the unpaved trail Because of its remote location, we ate dinner a note of green apple, is found on wine lists all over that leads to the Faro Capo-Spartivento hotel. The at the hotel during our stay. Happily, the chef had the island. Anyone visiting ocher-colored stone lighthouse, built in 1856 by the worked in St. Moritz for many years, and his food should stop by the Italian navy, has recently been converted into an was superb, with dishes such as octopus carpaccio, Cantina Gostolai, where a intimate hotel with just six junior suites (request one gnocchi with mussels in a zucchini sauce, and grilled friendly former school- of the two Sea View Suites, which offer spectacular teacher offers a fasci- tuna with herbs and tomatoes. The wine list was nating lesson in Cannonau 360-degree views over the coastline and hinterland). brief but interesting, and service in the dining room wines. Another Cannonau The design of the hotel respects the original was courtly, quiet and English-speaking. We left producer to look for is function of the structure — which is an Italian Faro Capo-Spartivento with the intention to return Giuseppe Sedilesu, which national historic monument — but renders it warm makes organic and biody- one day, perhaps having rented the whole place for namic wines. And perhaps and comfortable, with details such as wide oak- a family reunion. the most interesting red plank floors, Murano glass chandeliers, white linen wine in Sardinia today, a curtains and quarry stone-lined baths. Although Costa Rei blend of Cannonau with slightly bemused by the circular bed in our suite, two other local grapes, which followed the curves of the tower, we found he following morning, we retraced our route Muristellu and Monica, is made by Fradiles, in our quarters to be unexpectedly plush and cozy. Tto Cagliari — about an hour’s drive — on our in the central Divided in half by massive structural steel girders, way to the town of . There, we enjoyed province of . the room came with a white canvas sofa and glass- an excellent lunch of spaghetti with spiny lobster topped desk, as well as a large Balinese mirror and swordfish steaks at Da Barbara. Beyond the propped up against one wall. city, the winding road followed the coastline and The point of a stay at Faro Capo-Spartivento offered such spectacular panoramas that we pulled is relaxation. Aside from two nearby white-sand over constantly to enjoy them. The air smelled of beaches fronting transparent turquoise water — Cala salt and wildflowers. Soon we came to Costa Rei, Cannonau Cipolla and Su Giudeu —­ there is little to do in the a pretty and easygoing resort town on a stretch of grapes vicinity. The phone service can be interrupted by coastline backed by parasol pines. GRAPES: © FRANCESCOMOUFOTOGRAFO / ISTOCK / FRANCESCOMOUFOTOGRAFO © GRAPES:

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2015 The 52-room Villa del Re hotel is a new five- painted walls and oak floors. Junior Suites with star property that opened in June 2014. Set in a private terraces — such as “,” where we stayed landscaped park, the hotel has a contemporary design — are recommended. These have open-plan baths that makes an effort to fit into the surroundings. Its with Jacuzzi tubs and separate showers, spacious walls are faced with stone in the idiom of Sardinia’s wardrobe areas and excellent lighting. traditional rural architecture. The centerpiece of The highlight of our stay at Lanthia, however, the property is an Olympic-size pool surrounded was the exceptional restaurant, which specializes by a wooden deck and overlooking a private beach. in traditional Sardinian cooking. The good-value For a luxury hotel, the Classic and Superior prix-fixe menu included an appetizer of local rooms are small, so it’s preferable to book a Junior charcuterie and cheese, Sardinian ravioli, roasted Suite. The décor is Italian beach house chic, with suckling pig with rosemary-roasted potatoes, and whitewashed walls, limed oak floors and antiqued, a delicious Sardinian cheesecake. Complimentary Bookshelf ivory-painted wooden furniture. The lighting is good, shots of ice-cold Mirto — a potent, dark-purple the beds are comfortable and the baths are well- Sardinian liqueur made with wild myrtle berries The essential volume for Sardinia is D.H. Lawrence’s equipped. Overall, La Villa del Re is fineLake for a night’s and leaves — concluded this feast and assured an C omo “Sea and Sardinia.” This Lake stay during a driving tour,Maggior but Ie don’t recommend exceptionally good night’s sleep. short work describes the it as a destination hotel. The food was lackluster weeklong train journey MILAN MILAN that he made around the during our visit,PIEDMONT and, for an extended stay, there Oliena 0 30 MI island with his wife, Frieda, are better resorts elsewhere on the island. VENICE 0 30 KM in 1921. Though his tone fter breakfast, we set off on a 36-mile drive along is frequently exasperated TURIN ASTI the SS125 from Santa Maria Navarrese to the and grumpy, Lawrence’s Santa MariaCANALE Navarrese A ALBA BRA charming hilltop town of . This winding two- observations about the he following day, SINIOwe drove north to see the lane highway is among the most beautiful in Europe. area and the character of the Sardinians are as dramaticCUNE redO porphyry cliffs that plunge into WeBOLOGNA proceeded at a speed relaxed enough to smell T astute and amusing today the sea in . We arrived at the 28-room the maquis — the low carpetA driatic of thyme, rosemary Sea as they were almost a Lanthia Resort in Santa Maria Navarrese in time and wild mint that covers the countryside — and to century ago. LUCCA FLORENCE to spend a lazy afternoon reading in the shadePIS ofA gaze at the majestic bare stone mountains. On the Nobel Prize-winning novelist Grazia Deledda the pines, junipers and olive trees that line the SANway west toward Oliena, one of the prettiest towns GIMIGNANO (1871-1936) was born in hotel’s private beach. Though it was not especially in Sardinia,SIENA the countryside softened, with poppy- the central town of Nuoro. grand or luxurious, we liked this place immediately flecked fields CORTof ONAwheat, neatly tended vineyards and ISOLA Her fiction vividly depicts DI CAPRAIA PIENZA because of the attractive setting, the friendly staff, groves2 HRS ofMONT oliveALCINO trees fillingASSISI a broad, fertile valley. life in small-town Sardinia,

ELBA and her characters are the elegant simplicity of its décor, the comfort of its JustGROSSET asO the cicadas began their chant in the

ISOLA often challenged by well-designed rooms and the congenial atmospherePIANOSA heat of the day, we arrived at Su Gologone. This the severity of social found at hotels with visibly contented guests. 68-roomISOLA hotel, a whitewashed hamlet decorated ISOLA DEL GIGLIO conventions. Her best- DI MONTECRISTO The simple accommodations come with framed with museum-quality Sardinian art and handicrafts, known book is “Reeds in the Wind.” photographs, colorful Sardinian embroidery, white- was founded inR OME1962 by the mellifluously named BOOK: © PENGUIN CLASSICS

CORSICA Our room and the pool (FRANCE) at Su Gologone SARDINIA BARI 0 30 60 MI COSTA SMERALDA 0 30 60 KM NAPLES VESUVIUS (4,203 FEET) LACCO AMENO SANTA TRINITA PROCIDA SASSARI EPOMEO (2,589 FEET) POMPEII ISCHIA Bay DI SACCARGIA PORTO of ISCHIA Naples RAVELLO POSITANO SORRENTO AMALFI T A S C O BRINDISI ALGHERO A M A L F I CAPRI Gulf of Salerno NUORO OLIENA LECCE

SANTA MARIA MILAN NAVARRESE

ITALY ROME CAGLIARI COSTA REI VILLASIMIUS CAGLIARI CHIA NORA CAPO SPARTIVENTO PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

SEPTEMBER 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 PALERMO

TAORMINA SICILY CATANIA

Mediterranean Sea

I taly National Capitals Cities 250,000-899,999 International Boundaries Major Rivers Cities 75,000-249,999 Adminastrative Boundaries Intermediate Rivers Administrative Capitals Cities 25,000-74,999 Cities 0-24,999 Highways Lakes Cities 3,000,000+ Primary Roads Cities 900,000-2,999,999 Minor Primary Roads Local Primary Roads Peppeddu Palimodde and his wife, Pasqua. Their aim was to transform their restaurant, a simple place specializing in hearth-grilled meats, into a country hotel showcasing the cuisine, culture and crafts of rural Sardinia. Today, the property is run by the Palimoddes’ daughter, Giovanna, but it was still the elegant Signora Pasqua Palimodde who ushered us to our table on the open-air terrace for lunch. After a delicious rustic meal of culurgiones (Sardinian ravioli

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER stuffed with cheese) and homemade sausage with Culurgiones at Su Gologone hotel and spaghetti with clams at L’Aragosta restaurant grilled vegetables, we decided to pass on a swim in the spring-water pool — Su Gologone is adjacent to Sardinian Dining Highlights some of the most famous mineral springs in Sardinia

Luigi Pomata This stylish Cagliari restaurant surprises with an outstanding sushi bar. — and to spend the afternoon relaxing. (The tuna caught off Sardinia is of such high quality that it commands astronomical Our room proved comfortable and attractive, prices at the Tokyo fish market.) In addition, chef-owner Luigi Pomata’s modern Sardinian with a terra-cotta tile floor, a small balcony shaded menu features dishes such as octopus roasted with sweet vinegar and fresh chickpeas, by a fig tree, and a wrought-iron four-poster bed in and fregula (tiny balls of semolina pasta) with rock lobster. The wine list is arguably the an arched alcove next to a white-painted armoire. best in town. Pomata worked at Le Cirque in New York and with Marco Pierre White in London, a resume that explains the urban chic of this place. VIALE REGINA MARGHERITA 14. The cheerfully tiled bath was well-lit and came TEL. (39) 070-672-058. LUIGIPOMATA.COM with a combination tub and shower, plus a single

Fork Dal Corsaro, considered Cagliari’s best restaurant for many years, now offers vanity with a limestone counter. In the hallway a bistro, Fork, at the same address. In my view, the cooking at the bistro is much more outside our room were displays of handwoven and appealing. Start with Pecorino flan, or maybe spiny lobster in tomato sauce in season embroidered saddlebags and shawls, mounted inside (summer), then try the spaghetti with crabmeat, or bream with spiny artichokes. VIALE glass cabinets. Throughout the public areas we found REGINA MARGHERITA 28. TEL. (39) 070-664-318. STEFANODEIDDA.IT/FORK.HTML Sardinian crafts ­— textiles, farm utensils, wooden Trattoria Lillicu Owned and run by the same family since 1936, this simple and masks and paintings — that provided the hotel with deservedly popular restaurant in the old quarter of Cagliari serves delicious local seafood a powerful sense of place. at very reasonable prices. The atmosphere is hectic and bare-bones, with white marble tables, bright lights and busy waiters. Try specialties such as spaghetti with bottarga (mullet roe) and clams. Other good choices include grilled red mullet or squid. For dessert, Alghero don’t miss the delicious sebadas — flat fritters filled with ricotta cheese and drizzled with honey. VIA SARDEGNA 78. TEL. (39) 070-652-970. fter two nights at Su Gologone, we continued on L’Aragosta It can be a challenge to find good food in popular seaside vacation towns A our journey to Alghero, making a brief detour to such as Costa Rei, which is why L’Aragosta comes as a very pleasant surprise. The English- visit the Basilica della Santissima Trinità di Saccargia, speaking owner is committed to using the best local seasonal produce. Seafood is the the polychrome 11th-century stone church outside specialty, including dishes like spaghetti with arselle (tiny clams), and tuna steak with a of Sassari that is almost as much of an emblem of crust of three types of pepper. Reservations are essential. VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO 20. TEL. (39) 070-991-118. LARAGOSTACOSTAREI.IT Sardinia as the Empire State Building is of New York City. Alghero is a fine old port town that is Quintilio Ristobar This simple place on a craggy point surrounded by the Mediterranean perceptibly more cosmopolitan than most other at the edge of Alghero is a favorite with the locals, who come for the impeccably fresh catch-of-the-day menu. Shrimp, langoustines, rock lobster, sea bass and other fish are Sardinian cities, having been ruled by the served grilled, with good olive oil and lemon quarters on the side. A bottle of the local for several centuries. This heritage is also reflected Vermentino pairs perfectly with lunch here. VIA EL TRÒ 44, LOCALITÀ GROTTE DI COSTA. TEL. (39) 393-919-6976.

Al Tuguri Occupying a stone house in Alghero’s old town, this restaurant takes itself rather seriously, as the framed but yellowed articles from publications such as The New York Times in the vestibule attest. The stiff prices and formal service notwithstanding, it does serve some of the best seafood in the city, including outstanding Catalan-style mussels, fettuccine with tuna sauce, and grilled sea bream. VIA MAIORCA 113. TEL. (39) 079-976-772. ALTUGURI.IT

Da Barbara Run by the same family for several generations, this seafood establishment on the outskirts of Villasimius is perfect for lunch. Feast on homemade fregula served with baby clams, spaghetti with rock lobster sauce, or grilled sea bass. LOCALITÀ S.P. 76, View of Alghero from Villa Las Tronas SOLANAS. TEL. (39) 070-750-630. PHOTO BY ANDREWPHOTO BY HARPER ANDREW HARPER

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2015 in street signs in both Italian and Catalan. At the end of the 19th century, Alghero emerged as a stylish seaside resort on par with places such as Viareggio and Nice, which explains why its formidable stone ramparts still surround a dense concentration of restaurants, bars, cafés and shops selling jewelry made from the local red coral. Unlike the Costa Smeralda, Alghero has a life beyond tourism, since the fishing port is still busy and the nearby vineyards — Sella & Mosca and Cantina Santa Maria la Palma among them — are producing excellent wines.

After we rang a bell, wrought-iron gates swung open to reveal the lush tropical gardens surrounding Exterior, and our bedroom and bath the 24-room Villa Las Tronas. The villa was built at Villa Las Tronas in 1880 on the ruins of an ancient watchtower by Alessandro, the third count of Sant’Elia. During the Belle Epoque, it was frequented by the European Villa Las aristocracy, including Italian royalty and a bevy of Tronas was built Romanov princesses. Converted into a hotel in 1959, “ in 1880 on the the villa rapidly attracted a glamorous clientele that ruins of an ancient included the Italian actors Ugo Tognazzi and Virna watchtower by Lisi, as well as Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor. Alessandro, the Las Tronas remains an exceptionally romantic third count of hotel, with a mixture of Old World elegance and Sant’Elia. an easygoing contemporary style of hospitality. (At PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER times, it was a bit too easygoing: On our arrival, no one could be bothered to help us with our luggage, HOTELS AT A GLANCE and when we complained to the duty manager, he Faro Capo-Spartivento A95 blithely remarked, “Why didn’t you ask us to come LIKE The strong sense of place; the spectacular views; the unexpectedly delicious food. DISLIKE The 4 p.m. check-in time; the too-formal service. GOOD TO KNOW There is no elevator. When booking, and help you?”) Escorted to our suite, we immediately request direct access by car, rather than a transfer to the property from a parking lot a half-mile away. appreciated its huge private terrace with a Jacuzzi and CLASSIC SUITE, $650; SEA VIEW SUITE, $870. VIALE SPARTIVENTO, DOMUS DE MARIA. TEL. (39) 070-513-489. superb views over Alghero and the Mediterranean. FAROCAPOSPARTIVENTO.COM The huge space featured a wood floor and a pair of La Villa del Re 88 LIKE The beguiling setting on private sandy beach; the landscaped grounds; the large swimming pool. wrought-iron art nouveau chandeliers hanging from DISLIKE The overpriced dinner menu; rather mediocre cooking; slow and disorganized service. GOOD TO KNOW Rooms tend to be small, so book a Junior Suite. The nuraghi (ancient megalithic stone struc- its high ceiling. The bedroom featured a baldacchino tures) around , about an hour’s drive from the hotel, are just as haunting and dramatic as those at bed draped with ivory-and-pearl-striped fabric and , a site that attracts tour-bus crowds. SUPERIOR ROOM SEA VIEW, $500; JUNIOR SUITE GARDEN VIEW, backed by a white leather headboard. Amenities $575. LOC. SU CANNISONI, COSTA REI. TEL. (39) 070-775-3009. LAVILLADELRE.COM included a small butler’s pantry with sink, fridge Lanthia Resort 89 LIKE The warm and friendly service; the fine beach; the excellent restaurant. DISLIKE The small swim- and espresso maker. Though the bath was snug, it ming pool. GOOD TO KNOW The resort attracts many families, but this does not detract from its appeal came with two glass sinks on a limestone counter, a for couples. DELUXE ROOM, $440. VIA LUNGOMARE MONTE SANTO, SANTA MARIA NAVARRESE. TEL. (39) 078-261- 5103. LANTHIARESORT.COM separate shower and a small porthole window that Su Gologone A93 provided natural light. Nondescript toiletries were LIKE The successful attempt to curate an experience of the cuisine and culture of rural Sardinia. the only disappointing detail. DISLIKE Slow and rather distant service in the restaurant; the frustratingly poor Internet connection. GOOD TO KNOW Order à la carte in the restaurant; the menu offered to those on half-board is restricted. The Villa Las Tronas has a superb fitness center Specify that you want a room with views of the surrounding countryside and mountains. JUNIOR SUITE, and spa, including an indoor seawater pool, in an $510; SUITE, $620. LOC. SU GOLOGONE, OLIENA. TEL. (39) 078-428-7512. SUGOLOGONE.IT adjacent building. The main outdoor pool is also Villa Las Tronas A92 LIKE The spectacular setting; the romantic atmosphere; the excellent small spa. DISLIKE The exces- filled with filtered seawater. The property has more sively casual service; the lackluster cooking in the hotel restaurant. GOOD TO KNOW Quintilio Ristobar, individual personality than the hotels on the Costa a casual but excellent beachside restaurant much loved by the locals, is just a short walk down the street. DOUBLE ROOM SEA VIEW, $500; JUNIOR SUITE, $690. LUNGOMARE VALENCIA 1, ALGHERO. TEL. (39) 079-981-818. Smeralda, hence, it provided a suitably authentic HOTELVILLALASTRONAS.COM and memorable ending to our fascinating tour. H A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more informationon these  Find my city guide to Cagliari online. and two other recommendations in Sardinia.

SEPTEMBER 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 ELEUTHERA, HARBOUR ISLAND AND ANDROS Seductive Bahamas Resorts A SLIVER OF LAND A HUNDRED MILES LONG AND OFTEN NO MORE THAN A MILE WIDE, Eleuthera lies an hour southeast of Miami. A few minutes’ drive from North Eleuthera Airport, the island narrows to the width of the road. On the Atlantic side, the water is a deep, restless sapphire blue, while to the west, it is an expanse of aquamarine, scarcely disturbed by a ripple. Harbour Island The primary purpose of my Bahamas trip was to for a view of (and direct access to) the sands and the Classic stay at The Cove, a secluded 57-room resort acquired sea. Some lower room categories are cramped, and in April by the Arizona-based Enchantment Group. most look out onto lawns and tropical vegetation. THE DUNMORE has long (The company’s portfolio includes Enchantment The more lavish accommodations, however, are been a favorite of Harper Resort in Sedona — which I have long recommended spacious, stylish and well-appointed. The aesthetic subscribers. Comprising just 15 cottage-style — and the Tides Inn, a well-known property on is minimalist, consisting of white walls, white sofas, lodgings set on a hillside Chesapeake Bay.) The previous owner, Sidney D. sisal matting on marble floors and contemporary overlooking a magnificent Torres IV, an entrepreneur from New Orleans, had pale-wood furniture. Given the tropical setting, Atlantic beach, this is a carried out a multimillion-dollar renovation in 2012. our suite felt cool and uncluttered rather than true hideaway. Upgrades and refurbishments — After a 20-minute taxi ride from the airport, we austere. The marble-lined bath was well-lit and well- including a new swimming were ushered into the resort’s stark white reception equipped. Master Caribbean Cove Suites provide pool — had provided an area. Set at the summit of a small hill, its windows oval tubs and outdoor showers. The most desirable excuse for my return. The afforded a view over much of the 40-acre property. accommodations are the 1 Bed Beach Villas and Dunmore is more relaxed than it once was, but the For a few moments, we gazed across lush grounds the two three-bedroom villas. The latter come with property still offers an that sloped down to a rocky point separating two private pools and full kitchens. ambience of understated white-sand coves. The situation seemed close to After showering, we strolled over to the horizon patrician charm. perfect. Having been checked in, we were driven pool and the Gregory Town Grill. The latter has a  Read more about my in a golf cart down to our Caribbean Cove Suite. At sublime view over a horseshoe cove to the western recent visit online.

DUNMORE BEACH: PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER this resort, you really should spend the extra money horizon. I can think of few more idyllic places in which to linger with a sundowner. The dining Beach and villa at The Cove room at The Cove is housed within a light and airy PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER pavilion nearby. The menu combines Western and Asian elements and offers a sushi list. In general, the cuisine attained a much higher level than is customary at tropical beach resorts. Service was prompt and obliging throughout. At present, The Cove offers a small fitness center, and spa services can be requested. A comprehensive spa facility is apparently under consideration. As far as I could tell, the ownership transition has been GRAND BAHAMA seamless. Certainly, the staff members seemed THE ABACOS U.S. confident and relaxed. Given the experience and (Florida) track record of the Enchantment Group, I expect HARBOUR MIAMI ISLAND this property to flourish.

BIMINI PARADISE 1 ISLAND 3 NASSAU 4 ELEUTHERA arbour Island lies a half-hour drive and a brief BAHAMAS 2 NEW water taxi ride from The Cove. The speedboat PROVIDENCE H 0 50 100 MI ANDROS takes little more than five minutes to cross the 0 50 100 KM channel to Dunmore Town, an exceptionally pretty 1 The Dunmore and peaceful settlement with quiet streets lined by Rock House GREAT EXUMA 2 Kamalame Cay wooden English Colonial houses decked out in an 3 The Cove entire chart of bright pastel colors. 4 One&Only Ocean Club A TLANTIC OCEAN Rock House is a 10-room hideaway located in CUBA a slightly elevated position that provides absorbing

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2015

CAYMAN ISLANDS HAITI views of the harbor. The principal building feels like limestone structure overlooking a stretch of white- NASSAU NEWS a sophisticated private residence, with overstuffed sand beach and an expanse of calm turquoise sea. sofas, ceiling fans, antique busts, framed drawings, The air-conditioned interior featured a high peaked Rosewood gilded sconces and piles of art books. On dark wood ceiling and French doors that opened onto a wide Debut tables, framed family photographs vie for attention veranda. The restrained décor was in a traditional with those containing more familiar faces, including island style, with dark wood furniture, white cotton- BUSTLING, cosmopolitan Nassau is a world away two recent U.S. presidents and one of Manhattan’s covered armchairs, sisal matting, framed prints and from the tranquil and most high-profile magazine editors. A central well-stocked bookshelves. The bath was light and low-key out islands of the courtyard contains a 40-foot pool surrounded by airy, though a little smaller than one might wish. Bahamas. For many years, loungers and curtained cabanas. Here, the aesthetic Kamalame Cay offers a variety of accommodations I have recommended the lavish One&Only Ocean seems to be of Moroccan inspiration, with rich, (for a maximum of 60 guests) that range from less Club, a beachfront resort vibrant colors that form an electric contrast to the expensive Marina Rooms, which are chiefly suitable of 107 guest rooms, suites swathes of purple bougainvillea festooning the for fishermen, to lavish four-bedroom villas ideal and villas. Opulent accom- trunks of the palm trees. for families. modations with personal butlers are complemented Accommodations at Rock House tend to be Meals are taken either in the atmospheric by Versailles-inspired relatively small and furnished in a traditional style. Great House or at the Tiki Bar & Beach Grill next gardens; Dune restaurant, The most desirable room is probably “Seahorse,” as to the swimming pool. (Room service is available where chef Jean-Georges it has a private terrace that provides direct access to on request; breakfast baskets are delivered each Vongerichten serves the pool. The bath is compact, with a single vanity morning; and villa guests may engage the services French-Asian cuisine with Bahamian influences; and and a shower over the tub. Those in search of more of a private chef.) Amenities include a sophisticated a spa with eight Balinese- space should opt for one of the three suites. overwater spa with glass panels through which to style treatment rooms. The restaurant, which has a magical terrace observe marine life, at the end of a long pier. However, competition will overlooking the harbor, is justly well-regarded for When making our reservation, we had been doubtless now be provided by the new Rosewood at its menu of Continental and Bahamian dishes. In unsure what to expect. However, we discovered an Baha Mar, a 190-room high season, it becomes a fashionable gathering exceptionally stylish and well-run hideaway that it colonial-style resort set point. If you are looking for a chic hideaway with was a wrench to leave. H on the white sands of excellent food and consistently friendly staff, Rock famed Cable Beach, just House has considerable appeal. 10 minutes from the inter- national airport. Part of a huge resort-casino devel- aving taken a water taxi back to Eleuthera, we opment, the Rosewood Hflew to Andros, which lies just 15 minutes by features four restaurants air southwest of Nassau. The island has a total land and bars, three pools with 18 private cabanas, and a area larger than the rest of the Bahamian islands spa. At the time of writing, combined. A local population of about 8,000 lives the property is expected along the east coast, where a succession of small Our cottage at Kamalame Cay PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER to open in early fall. communities is linked by a single atrocious road. From Andros Town, we headed north to HOTELS AT A GLANCE Staniard Creek, where a private ferry transports The Cove A92 LIKE Spectacular location; idyllic beaches; friendly staff. DISLIKE The regular rooms are on the guests across a channel to Kamalame Cay. After small side and rather austere. GOOD TO KNOW Harbour Island is 30 minutes to the north, so check-in at the “Pineapple House” reception area it is possible to take a land and a water taxi to lunch or dinner. OCEAN FRONT COVE SUITE, $790; OCEAN FRONT THREE-BEDROOM VILLA, $2,390. QUEEN’S HIGHWAY, GREGORY TOWN, ELEUTHERA. TEL. (242) 335-5142. — the only place on the 96-acre island with Wi-Fi THECOVEELEUTHERA.COM access — we were driven in a golf cart to our Cottage Rock House A91 Suite, “Wild Dilly.” This proved to be an attractive LIKE Sophisticated interior décor; pretty swimming pool; surprisingly well-equipped fitness room; excellent restaurant. DISLIKE Most accommodations have combination tubs and showers. GOOD TO KNOW In the evening during high season, the inn has a party atmosphere that may not appeal to everyone. SEAHORSE ROOM, $380; ASIAN SUITE, $680. HILL STREET, DUNMORE TOWN, HARBOUR ISLAND. TEL. (242) 333-2053. ROCKHOUSEBAHAMAS.COM

Kamalame Cay A94 LIKE End-of-the-world atmosphere despite proximity to Nassau; exceptionally comfortable and distinc- tive accommodations. DISLIKE Very little, though the public areas can be rather dark. GOOD TO KNOW This resort will appeal to fishermen and non-fishermen alike; arrange a helicopter or seaplane transfer, as the local roads and scheduled air services are dire. BEACH SUITE, $595; COTTAGE SUITE, $725. ANDROS GREAT BARRIER REEF, STANIARD CREEK SETTLEMENT, FRESH CREEK. TEL. (242) 368-6281. KAMALAME.COM  A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more informationon these Bedroom at Rock House PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER and two other recommendations in the Bahamas.

SEPTEMBER 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 BONEFISHING IN THE BAHAMAS LAST WORD Readers’ Choice

I AM ALWAYS fascinated by the results of our annual Out reader survey. It is espe- cially gratifying when recent on the recommendations turn up in the latest listings. But Flats it is also a pleasure to see old friends continuing to appear. For example, after a change of ownership and Searching the sparkling waters; a typical Andros a refurbishment program, bonefish Petit St. Vincent was this

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER year ranked No. 2 among international hideaways. NOT FOR NOTHING IS ANDROS KNOWN AS THE ‘BONEFISHING CAPITAL OF THE WORLD.’ Every survey includes at least one major surprise. In The island’s shallow surrounding waters hold a huge population of the “gray ghosts of 2015, this has been provided the flats.” For those unfamiliar with the sport, bonefishing is widely regarded as one by Acqualina in Florida, of the most exciting and skillful forms of fly-fishing. which came in first in no fewer than three catego- Although they are not particularly large — in pinnacle of the sport is wading the flats knee-deep ries: beach, spa and family. the Bahamas, a 10-pound bonefish is a monster — in translucent water, but an eagle-eyed professional Also, I have duly noted the they are shy, and you must, for example, be able guide perched atop an elevated platform will usually places that you would most to cast a small fly accurately and delicately over a contribute to greater success. Bonefish are extremely like to see covered. Many respondents asked me to considerable distance to be successful. Above all, difficult to spot — indeed, it is virtually impossible concentrate on properties bonefish are almost unbelievably strong and fast. A without polarizing that display a high degree 5-pounder will strip 100 yards of line and backing sunglasses — not of “authenticity” and from your reel within seconds. Indeed, at times, it least because their expressed a preference for “remote” or “unusual” desti- can feel rather like being accidentally hooked up thousands of silver nations, while urging me to a motorbike. scales act as tiny to provide “a more unique Many of the dedicated fishing lodges on Andros mirrors, reflecting take than mainstream travel are located close to Mangrove Cay and the legendary the colors of the publications.” Overall, I was heartened to discover that Middle Bight, where, fishing lore maintains, huge seabed. Further, during a period of inter- bonefish smash up 8- and 9-weight fly rods with they live in shoals that are constantly on the move, national uncertainty, 39 impunity. (Perhaps the only other Bahamian flats so you must be able to see a specific group of fish and percent of subscribers still to rival the fishing here are the famous “Marls” of to cast to where it appears to be heading. Casting expect to travel more in the Abaco.) On my recent trip, however, I was based at randomly is pointless. next 12 months than they have this year. Kamalame Cay on the northeast coast. The great My local guide at Kamalame Cay proved to advantage of this resort is that it is equally appealing be a competent and agreeable man, and our two to non-anglers, and fishing widows (or widowers) excursions together yielded nine bonefish, the largest will be quite content either in the spa or poolside. of which weighed about 5 pounds. Aside from the Full- or half-day guided trips aboard specialized flats thrill of the fishing, Andros provides a profoundly Results skiffs enable anglers to cover large areas of water and therapeutic environment of space and solitude. In Are In! to track down fish, even if the tides and prevailing addition to dolphins, we encountered rays, turtles, OUR ANNUAL reader conditions appear unfavorable. (The best fishing several lemon sharks and a 5-foot blacktip shark that survey has been tallied, and your top 20 U.S. and months on the east coast of Andros are generally cruised alongside our skiff for a while. Out on the international hideaways are reckoned to be October through January.) For me, the flats, the world’s troubles seem infinitely remote. H revealed at AndrewHarper. com/readers-choice. Also Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for listed are your favorite city all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX hotels, safari lodges, and 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2015 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; food and wine, beach, golf, WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. spa and family resorts. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu