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Opinion Special Issue Norway calls on Pack your bags! the world to ban Vi reiser, noen av oss for alltid, for Travel Issue å søke andre land, andre liv, andre nuclear weapons sjeler. 2013 Read more on page 6 – Anaïs Nin Read more on page 8 Norwegian American Weekly

Vol. 124 No. 12 March 29, 2013 Established May 17, 1889 • Formerly Western Viking and Nordisk Tidende $1.50 per copy News in brief Find more at blog.norway.com Drilling in Lofoten – not yet News A new report shows that the With approval Intelligence Service of the Nor- from his own party wegian Defense has illegally monitored two journalists from lacking, Oil and the Norwegian newspaper VG. A report issued from the EOS Energy Minister committee, which oversees Ola Borten Moe Norway’s secret services and is appointed by the Government, stands down on the reveals that the Army Intelli- proposal gence Service has monitored journalists Rolf J. Widerøe and Hans Petter Aass. “It is very im- portant to find out who came up with this idea, how far up in the Staff Compilation system people have been aware Norwegian American Weekly that this was going on, and why it was decided that information about the two journalists should Minister for Oil and Energy be collected,” says editor-in- Ola Borten Moe (Center Party) chief at VG, Torry Pedersen. has for a long time supported oil (Norway Post) drilling in the areas offshore of the Lofoten Islands and Vesterålen, but Education on Friday told NRK that he is fi- The Norwegian Academy of Photo: Making View – Visitnorway.com Science and Letters has decided See > drilling, page 6 Henningsvær, one of the many beautiful island communities in the Lofoten Islands. to award the Abel Prize for 2013 to Pierre Deligne, Institute for Advanced Study, Princeton, New Jersey, U.S. He receives From local to Nobel the Abel Prize “for seminal Let’s go to Norway! contributions to algebraic ge- Greater Tacoma ometry and for their transforma- Presenting the annual Travel Issue 2013 tive impact on number theory, Peace Prize representation theory, and re- laureate for 2012 lated fields,” to quote the Abel committee. Deligne will receive now nominated for the Abel Prize from H.M. King Harald at an award ceremony in Nobel Prize Oslo on the 21st of May. (Norway Post) Special Release Greater Tacoma Peace Prize Photo: GTPP Father William Bichsel, S.J. What’s inside? While many people remain tee holds it in high regard. Hope- unaware of the Greater Tacoma fully, the entire world will soon News 2-3 Peace Prize of Tacoma, Wash., Business 4 the Norwegian Nobel Commit- Research & Education 5 See > nobel, page 6 Opinion 6-7 Special Travel Section 8-17 Northug takes World Cup Roots & Connections 18 Obituaries & Religion 19 Cinches the overall Arts & Style 20 cross-country title In Your Neighborhood 21 Norwegian Heritage 22 Photo: Terje Borud / www.visitnorway.com Sightseeing in Vigelandsparken Sculpture Park in Oslo provides endless oppor- Norway Post tunities for photos. $1 = NOK 5.8384 Norway’s Petter Northug won the 15 km. cross-country pursuit updated 3/25/2013 We welcome you to the annual this issue, you will find travel tips, on the last day of the World Cup Travel Issue! must-see places for a wide variety In comparison Final mini-tour in Falun, Sweden With its stunning beauty and of interests, interviews with travel on Mar. 24, and also secured the 2/25/2013 5.6767 rich cultural heritage, Norway is experts and much more. overall World Cup victory and the 9/25/2012 5.7072 the ultimate travel destination to The travel section begins on 3/25/2012 5.7549 connect with nature and people. In page 8! See > northug, page 20 Photo: Geir Olsen 2 • March 29, 2013 norwegian american weekly nyheter fra norge Nyheter Farlig i påsken Spørsmålene Sigrids familie vil ha svar på Din egen oljeplattform Bistandsadvokat Harald Stabell møtte opp i Stresset sjåfør, barn og Oslo tingrett for å konfrontere den drapssik- Hva med å ta ferien på hund i bilen, en dårlig tede 37-åringen direkte med hva skjedde din egen plattform? med Sigrid Giskegjerde Schjetne (16). Sun- sikret last og farlige nmøringen, som er siktet for drapet, ble 21. «Huldra» i Nordsjøen har forbikjøringer gjør mars varetektsfengslet i fire nye uker med brev- og besøkskontroll. Han forklarte seg ligget til salgs i to år, og påsken til høysesong under fengslingsmøtet, men retten fikk in- mangler fortsatt en ny for kjøretøy- og gen svar på hva som skjedde den natten Sigrid forsvant. – Noen må vite hva som har eier personskader skjedd, sier Harald Stabell, som er familiens bistandsadvokat. Politiet har gang på gang VG VG oppfordret 37-åringen til å fortelle alt han vet om Sigrid Giskegjerde Schjetne. Sen- Statens vegvesen ber folk ta det med ro est i et syv timer langt avhør 19. mars denne I oktober 2011 la Statoil ut den 20 roms i påsketrafikken. uken. Siktede har hele veien nektet straffs- store plattformen «Huldra» for salg på finn. I fjor omkom fem personer, 17 ble hardt kyld, og føler seg forfulgt av politi og hel- no. Foto: Kjetil Alsvik – Statoil ASA skadd og 153 lettere skadd i påsketrafikken. sevesenet. Der lokket de med eget helikopterdekk, Statoil selger «Huldra»-plattformen i Nordsjøen, men Allerede fredag ettermiddag var det lange (VG) 360 graders utsikt over Nordsjøen og senge- eventuelle kjøpere bør ha en velfylt lommebok. Den må nemlig flyttes, for kjøpers regning. køer på E6 nordgående ut fra Oslo på grunn plass til 30 mennesker. av trafikkuhell. Stortinget vil ikke heve aldersgrensen til Annonsen ligger fortsatt ute, og Statoil – På få timer har det vært fire trafik- er fremdeles åpne for kreative kjøpere. 75 år Andre ville gjøre plattformen om til et kunst- kuhell mellom Alnabru og Gardermoen, sier – Den ideelle kjøperen er selvfølgelig et Et stort flertall på Stortinget avviser et Frp- verk. Men en eventuell kjøper kan ikke regne trafikkoperatør Luis Barra ved Vegtrafik- selskap innen olje og gass, men vi holder det forslag om å heve aldersgrensen i arbeidsliv- med å få en fiks ferdig plattform klar til bruk. ksentralen til NTB. Han opplyser at fredag, åpent for andre som har gode forslag, sier in- et fra 70 til 75 år. Frp mener at forslaget er Den må nemlig flyttes til et nytt sted, og dét lørdag og onsdag er de største utfartsdagene. formasjonssjef i Statoil, Ola Anders Skauby. i tråd med intensjonen i pensjonsreformen. er langt fra gratis. – Trafikken er økende til fredag kveld. Huldra-plattformen har vært i produk- Lederen av arbeids- og sosialkomiteen, Frps – Vi kan ikke si hva prisen er på selve Lørdag øker den fra klokken 10 og dabber sjon siden 2001, men stenger nå produks- Robert Eriksson, mener at Ap-representan- plattformen, men bare det å flytte den vil av igjen i 17-18-tiden, og det samme gjelder ter ved flere anledninger har tatt til orde for jonen. Årsaken er at oljefeltet er tomt. Men koste noen titalls millioner, forteller Skauby. for onsdag, sier Barra. en høyere aldersgrense. Han er svært skuf- Statoil mener plattformen er i så god stand at Nettopp totalprisen har gjort at salget Andre områder med ekstra køer er E16 fet over at Frp-forslaget faller. – For Frp er den ikke bør hugges opp, men selges til noen har dratt ut i tid. mot Voss og Lærdal ut fra Bergen og videre det helt ubegripelig at regjeringspartiene og som kan bruke den videre. – Vi har noen seriøse interessenter nå, på riksvei 7 i retning Hardangervidda og Høyre vil opprettholde en aldersgrense som Da finn.no-annonsen ble lagt ut første men det er selvfølgelig ikke noe man selger Geilo. På ferjesambandet mellom Brimnes har ligget fast i 96 år, spesielt med tanke gang, kom det mange interessenter med god hver dag, sier Skauby og ler. og Bruravik er det satt inn en ekstra ferge for at dagens seniorer blir eldre og holder seg kreativitet: friskere enn før. Dessuten oppfordres folk til å betjene trafikken. – Noen ville lage hotell av plattformen, English Synopsis: You can buy your own oil platform å stå lenger i jobb, sier Eriksson. English Synopsis: Easter is one of the most danger- og ville taue den inn i for eksempel en bukt residence! Statoil has put 20 rooms up for sale on the ous times to be on the road in Norway. Accidents are (NTB) oil platform “Huldra.” eller vik, forklarer Skauby med et lite smil. all too common over Easter weekend. Norwegian american weekly Online: blog.norway.com/category/news March 29, 2013 • 3 News News in brief Response Nobel Forum inspires Police to consider the use of drones The Norwegian police are considering The 2013 Nobel Peace the use of drones in their work, but are reviewed at present unwilling to share information Prize Forum hosted in about the issue. Drones are remote Ministry of Foreign Minneapolis, Minn. controlled, unmanned aircraft, and they Affairs completes may soon become part of Norwegian preparedness, Computerworld writes. evaluation of response Jessica Larsen “The technology is now regarded to be at to In Amenas crisis Norwegian American Weekly Intern a level which would justify the police’s consideration to use it as a tool in their The Nobel Peace Prize Forum is a work,” the Police Data and Equipment Special Release unique and inspiring event that encourages Service (PDMT) writes. At the same time, Ministry of Foreign Affairs students and other citizens to be peacemak- it is recommended to appoint a working ers. Inspired by Norway and its peacemaking group to consider how the police could “The terror attack against the gas pro- efforts in the world, the Nobel Peace Prize best make use of drones. duction facility at In Amenas in January Forum is the Norwegian Nobel Institute’s (NRK) shocked us all. Five Norwegian citizens only academic affiliation outside of Norway. Photo: Wikimedia Commons lost their lives. The assault was the largest An affiliated college or university campus $19 million extra in 2013 to combat Muhammed Yunus delivered the laureate address terror ever mounted against Norwegian interests hosts this spectacular three-day long confer- at the 2013 Nobel Peace Prize Forum. in peacetime. We have therefore conducted ence every year in the Midwest. This year it In the wake of the July 22 terrorist attacks a thorough review of the way Norwegian was hosted by Augsburg College in Minne- Prize winner, kicked off the first day of the in 2011, Norway has this year earmarked authorities handled the crisis,” says Foreign apolis, Minn., marking the 25th anniversary forum with his laureate address. an extra NOK 109 million ($18.7 million) Minister Espen Barth Eide. of the forum with the theme “The Power of Yunus, an economic professor in Ban- for emergency preparedness in the face of The responsibility for dealing with the Ideas: People and Peace.” gladesh, realized the severity of poverty sur- possible future terrorist attacks, reports emergency, including the attack itself, was The ever-amazing Muhammad Yunus, rounding the University campus where he the Washington Post. Prime Minister a U.S. Presidential Medal of Freedom, U.S. Jens Stoltenberg told reporters on March See > response, page 7 Congressional Gold Medal and Nobel Peace See > forum, page 20 20 that the government “everything it can to ensure that Norway remains a safe country.” The initiatives come as a response to 31 specific areas needing Six on Forbes improvement in the nation’s emergency New UND exchange preparedness during the July 22 attacks, Six Norwegians are as laid out by the July 22 Commission The Norway – North this fall, NRK reports. “It’s not a common rich enough to be practice to allocate money in March, Dakota connection included on Forbes’ list but now we will,” says Prime Minister continues to grow with Jens Stoltenberg. “We need this to move of billionaires quickly and efficiently,” he explained. a new UND student, (Staff Compilation) faculty and research Kjetil Børnstad wins world title NRK exchange program The World Championship in Cod Fishing takes place each year in March in Solvær, Lofoten. The event attracts hobby Chuck Haga Topping the list of Norwegians is Olav fishermen and enthusiasts from all over Grand Forks Herald Thon, the real estate king. the world. The record cod from 2012 was Photo: Ole Jørgen Bratland – Statoil ASA Thon is located at 198th place on 25.9 kg., with a total of 26,559 kg. of fish Statoil, Norway’s state-sponsered oil company, Forbes’ list with a fortune of $6 billion. He The Norway – North Dakota connection caught at the 2012 World Championships. has set up camp in North Dakota’s Bakken re- is Norway’s richest person and his Olav founded by 19th-century immigrants and This year, 655 participants from nine gion. Oil connections along with heritage con- Thon Group is Norway’s largest private real “greased” by more recent ties in oil develop- countries met Mar. 16 in Svolvær to nections have sparked a new exchange. estate company, with 450 properties, includ- ment continues to grow, as the University of compete for the biggest catch, in terms ing 60 hotels. North Dakota and the University of Bergen, of weight and biggest fish. Kjetil Bjørdal formalize an agreement that will bring mas- Oil tanker and shipping tycoon John Norway, look to establish a student, faculty came in with the last boat, and was among ter’s degree and doctoral students from the Fredriksen is all the way up in 87th place and research exchange. the last to weigh-in. His catch, at 28.3 kg., western Norwegian school to North Dakota with his $11.5 billion fortune. Fredriksen Paal Davidsen, a professor of system gave him the world title. to examine impacts of oil development in the was Norway’s richest person until he decid- dynamics at the Norwegian school, is ex- (Norway Post) western part of the state. ed to abandon his Norwegian citizenship for pected in Grand Forks at the end of March to See > exchange, page 19 See > six, page 6 Enjoy Norway all year long. Keep up with Norway and the Norwegian-American community with the only Norwegian newspaper in North America! $ Subscribe – it’s easy! one year subscription: 59 Call us toll-free at $79 in Canada and $179 in Norway and all other countries (800) 305-0217 to start a new subscription

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Exchange Rates Oslo Børs: Week at a Glance (March 25, 2013) Winners Losers “Gazelles” in Norway Norsk Kr. 5.8384 Name NOK Change Name NOK Change Avocet Mining 1.91 17.9% InterOil Exploration 1.12 -19.4% The Nordic Growth Entrepreneurship Review rates Dansk Kr. 5.7916 Northland Resources 0.99 6.45% AKVA Group 11.6 -16.2% the fastest-growing businesses in the Nordic countries Svensk Kr. 6.5123 Namsos Trafikkselskap 85.0 6.25% IGE Resources 0.39 -15.2% EMS Seven Seas 3.95 5.33% Renewable Energy Corp. 1.17 -14.3% Canadian $ 1.0214 Spectrum 60.0 5.26% Jason Shipping 1.50 -14.2% Euro 0.7771 ForFull detailed Service information Agency With about Experienced the Oslo Børs, visit www.dn.no. Norwegian Speaking Consultants! Full Service Agency WithOur Experienceddaily specials Norwegian and regularly Speaking updated Consultants! information will help you make wise travel Our daily specials and regularly updated informationdecisions will inhelp ayou makeconstantly wise travel changing decisions inworld! a constantly changing world! Specials to Scandinavia, VERRAZANOSpecials to Scandinavia TRAVEL & LEISURE Europe & the Caribbean Europe & the1 Caribbean (718) 979-6641 Call us for details! [email protected] us for details! • [email protected] Verrazano TraVel & leisure 1 (718) 979-6641 [email protected] [email protected] med dagen! Celebrate 17th of May with the Norwegian-American community and advertise in the Syttende Mai Issue Graphics: Nordic Growth Entrepreneurship Review – Our biggest issue of the year! – Above: The combined scoring of the framework conditions of each Nordic country shows that Finland has the best frame- Ad deAdline: mAy 1 work conditions for entrepreneurship, followed by Denmark and Sweden with Norway a bit behind. Iceland also has good Questions? framework conditions for entrepreneurship, but the economic Call (800) 305-0217 or email [email protected] and financial crisis in Iceland has reduced business opportunities for entrepreneurs, not the least because of lack of capital.

LEWIS O. TITLAND Quality Accounting & Tax Services for: Rasmus Falck Oslo, Norway Certified Public Accountant Small businesses (206)789-5433 Individuals 221 1st Ave. W. Ste. 400 Specialized Assistance Norway has the highest number of Although, “gazelles” create a significant Seattle, WA 98119 young, fast-growing companies in the Nor- number of jobs, it is not they themselves that dic countries. We also have the highest pro- ensure future growth. Many of these firms portion of start-up companies. However, are stagnating, go bankrupt or are acquired MULLAVEY, PROUT, GRENLEY & FOE Norway as a whole has the poorest condi- by established companies. “Gazelles” are tions for entrepreneurship in the region. I first and foremost an expression of the gen- attorneys and counselors at law have written previously about Birch at MIT. eral growth and dynamism in the economy. He was the inventor behind the terms “el- The recent Nordic report points out that the Advice regarding maritime and civil claims, disputes, ephants,” “mice” and “gazelles.” I have also Nordic countries have a challenge when it written about our leading business news- comes to start-up businesses growing in the commercial transactions and estate planning. paper “Dagens Næringsliv” that each year long run. ranks and presents “gazelle” companies. In- Most “gazelles” are in service indus- 24001 NW Sixty-fifth P.O. Box 70567 Seattle, WA 98107 deed very readable and inspiring. Now we tries. This is the case in all the Nordic coun- also have studies on the “gazelles,” like the tries, but most pronounced in Denmark Telephone: (206) 789-2511 Fax: (206) 789-4484 recently published Nordic Growth Entrepre- where almost nine out of ten “gazelles” are neurship Review. in service industries. Denmark is also the The Nordisk institutt for studier av in- country with the highest proportion of “ga- novasjon, forskning og utdanning (Norwe- zelles” in knowledge-intensive services. LUNDE MARINE ELECTRONICS, INC. gian Institute for the Stdy of Innovation, Norway stands out with several “ga- Research and Education, or NIFU) has been zelles” within primary and commodity pro- Sales and Service responsible for the Norwegian part of the duction. It reflects the high activity in indus- study. During the three year period 2007 – tries such as oil, gas and seafood. Yet we also 2009, Norway had more young, fast grow- have many “gazelles” in the service sector. ing companies, so-called “gazelles,” than Three of the four Norwegian “gazelles” are the other Nordic countries. Compared with service businesses. a similar survey three years ago, Norway The report also looks at conditions for Seattle,WA Tacoma,WA Dutch Harbor, AK has gone from jumbo to peak, in the Nordic entrepreneurs, both in the Nordic countries phone (206) 789-3011 phone (253) 627-6968 phone (907) 581-1498 countries in this area. We have long had a and in the OECD area. Norway comes in fax (206)782-3188 fax (253)383-4965 fax (907) 581-1402 high percentage of start-up companies, but 13th place in OECD countries and last in the it is interesting that we now have the most Nordic countries in terms of overall condi- “gazelles” in the region. According to the tions for entrepreneurship. Norway ranks researchers the result is probably related to among the top countries in terms of access to [email protected] general activity in the economy. loans and the country’s credit rating. There 5415 24th Ave NW, Seattle 98107 Together, our gazelles created more than is also relatively little risk associated with 10,000 new jobs. Looking at job creation per going bankrupt. On the other hand, Norway business, it is still Finnish companies that are scores low when it comes to labor market the most successful. This means that Finland regulations and tax burden. In particular, creates few “gazelle” companies, but those property taxes are an area where Norway is The Scandinavian Hour they have created, grow stronger in return. weaker. Celebrating over 50 years on the air! On average each Finnish “gazelle” creates The future looks bright, but there is 83 new jobs compared to 50 in Norway and room for improvement! KKNW – 1150 AM 41 in Sweden. Saturdays 9 – 10 a.m. PST Streaming live on the internet at: Subscribe to the Norwegian American Weekly! www.1150kknw.com norwegian american weekly Online: blog.norway.com/category/research March 29, 2013 • 5 Research & Education Progressively wetter in Norway Climate change will make life wetter for most Norwegians in the years to come. A rainier climate is expected nationwide

Research Council of Norway

Norwegian researchers have been work- ing hard to provide answers about the coun- try’s future climate. The most likely changes will be higher temperatures and more pre- cipitation. On average, winds will remain much as they are today, although more days of extreme winds can be expected.

Already more rain – and getting worse It currently rains nearly 20% more in Norway than in 1900. The greatest increase has come in winter, and the trend has been most pronounced in Western Norway. Researchers have determined with very high certainty that this rainier trend will con- tinue. Towards the year 2100 precipitation Photo: Johan Berge – VisitNorway.com may increase by five to 30% in Norway. One A light rain over Sogndal. Research shows that Norway’s weather will become rainier with climate change. estimate – based on multiple climate mod- els – maintains that Norway as a whole will rather than snow,” explains Dr. Hanssen- So while a warmer climate will bring only small changes in average wind amounts, average 18% more rainfall. Bauer, “so that much of it will run off in more precipitation to Norway, more of that the researchers also calculate that extreme Autumn precipitation is likely to in- winter instead of during the spring thaw. The precipitation may be evaporating to the air wind conditions, i.e. wind forces occurring crease most markedly in the coastal areas of general outlook will be more water in rivers before reaching the country’s rivers. every five years or so, may strike certain Western and Northern Norway. Winters may and streams in winter but less in summer.” parts of Norway more often in the future. also bring substantially more precipitation to Winds no greater on average parts of Eastern Norway and inland areas of Southern European levels “Warmer, wetter, wilder” was the fore- Using global climate models Central Norway. “We calculate that future extreme pre- cast from climate researchers a few years Research on Norway’s future climate is cipitation events in Norway will be more se- ago. Today, equipped with new and en- part of the worldwide effort to advance cli- More extreme precipitation vere than is the case today, particularly in the hanced knowledge, they are even more con- mate research. From a global perspective, “Another clear-cut finding of our re- summer,” Dr. Hanssen-Bauer states. fident that Norway’s future climate will in- it is an important finding that the Earth’s search is that we are headed for more fre- The explanation is quite simple: in a deed be warmer and wetter – but are not so warmer climate will mean less precipitation quent extreme precipitation events,” states warmer climate the atmosphere holds more sure that winds will blow any more wildly in the southern latitudes (not including tropi- meteorologist Inger Hanssen-Bauer. “Prob- moisture, and when all that water is released, across Norway than they do now. Some cli- cal regions) while in the northern latitudes, ably all of Norway will be more prone to Norwegians will be deluged more often with mate models predict slightly stronger winds including Norway, more precipitation will heavy precipitation.” Dr. Hanssen-Bauer has the kind of torrential downpours that South- on average, while others actually forecast fall. headed key segments of the recent major re- ern Europeans know so well. Southeastern that winds will be slightly weaker. Norwegian climate researchers can now search activities that have brought forth new Norway will be especially vulnerable. If the latter predictions are correct, it predict the country’s future climate with answers about Norway’s future climate. The higher incidence of thundercloud would be a continuation of the trend we have greater certainty thanks in large part to glob- More precipitation, and in particular build-up entails more risk of rainfall flood- seen emerging in Eastern Norway from the al climate models that have been downscaled more frequent extreme precipitation events, ing in summer. More streams and tributaries 1960s up to today: gradually fewer and few- for Norway. The researchers apply two dif- can have practical consequences for Norwe- could periodically swell to the size of larger er storm-force wind events. ferent techniques – dynamic downscaling gian communities. Knowledge about such rivers, even in the summer months. As men- “We researchers don’t know as much and statistical downscaling – to make fore- events is also valuable to public agencies tioned above, however, streams and rivers about wind as we do about temperatures casts about future climate that can focus very such as the Norwegian Water Resources and in summer will typically contain less water and precipitation,” says Dr. Hanssen-Bauer. locally, such as the area surrounding Oslo. Energy Directorate (NVE), the Norwegian compared to current levels. “We have good statistics for how warm it “Our findings are still uncertain,” cau- Public Roads Administration, and the Nor- has been and how much rain and snow have tions Dr. Hanssen-Bauer, “and some of them wegian National Rail Administration. Higher temperatures mean more evapo- fallen dating all the way back to the 1800s. are very uncertain, but for some areas they ration But we have few long time series for wind are also very clear-cut. What we can say Less water in rivers and streams in sum- An average of roughly 1,500 mm. of an- force here in Norway, which makes our work with the greatest confidence is that it will get mer nual precipitation falls on Norway; roughly harder.” warmer in Norway, particularly in winter.” A higher frequency of extreme precipi- 350 mm. of this currently evaporates. But While many climate models indicate tation does not necessarily mean more flood- in a warmer Norwegian climate, evapora- ing in rivers and streams in springtime. This tion from the ground will increase – which is also useful to know. means there will be less water in the streams “A warmer climate means that more of Tours to Scandinavia and rivers. the wintertime precipitation will fall as rain with a personal touch! NEW! Pilgrim Tour, July 18 – 30, 2013. Hike the Pilgrim Trail from Oslo to Trondheim together with a mixed group of Americans and Norwegians! A truly unique Be our Facebook fan! experience! There is still time to register for Norway Heritage Tour: Aug. Share your ideas and comments with us, and 9 – 19, 2013. The best of Norway! join the conversation with other readers of Visit our website for details: Independent tours: the Norwegian American Weekly! www.noramtours.com • Cruise with Hurtigruten (262) 743-1814 • [email protected] • Customized tours for individuals and group 6 • March 29, 2013 norwegian american weekly opinion < drilling An opinion column about current issues in Norway From page 1 Join the conversation! nally throwing in the towel on the proposal, at least for this upcoming election season. On the EDGE “My analysis after the annual county Norway Calls on the World to Ban Nuclear Weapons meetings have concluded, is that the propos- By Rev. John Dear al will not have majority support in our con- gress. But sometimes you have to take the initiative in cases where one is unsure what In early March 2013, an extraordinary, our energy, and what our hopes for peace are. catastrophic humanitarian effects; why the historic event occurred. The government of Martin spoke about being in India during the risk of accidents and of proliferation, com- kind of treatment they will get in the party Norway invited all the nations of the world to making of the movie Gandhi, and how that bined with the enormous stockpiles of nu- organization,” said Borten Moe on Mar. 22. a two-day conference to discuss the humani- experience led to an awakening of his faith, clear weapons, make these weapons a global Indeed, of the total of 16 Center Party tarian effects of nuclear war and to begin the and how meeting Dan and Phil Berrigan who humanitarian threat; and how the only viable county leaders Norwegian newspaper “Na- process to ban all nuclear weapons. Over 130 pushed him to work publicly for peace. answer to this global humanitarian threat is tionen” has talked to, there are eight who nations showed up. The gathering was full of On Sunday and Monday, Martin was an efficient and credible treaty banning nu- say they are opposed to the proposal, and hope and energy, and at the end, Mexico an- interviewed by all the leading Norwegian clear weapons. only two that are for it. The others would nounced that it will host a follow-up interna- newspapers and television stations just as the Norway hopes the conference will lead not comment on the proposal until after their tional gathering. international government conference was be- to a process similar to the processes that led respective county meetings. It’s equally amazing how few people ginning. Meanwhile, I spoke on a panel on to the ban on landmines and cluster muni- The two county teams that support the know this international gathering even oc- “Ethics in International Politics” with Cardi- tions, in the 1997 Mine Ban Treaty and the proposal are Troms and Sør-Trøndelag. The curred. Of course, the U.S. and Britain did nal John Onaiyekan from Nigeria, who left 2008 Convention on Cluster Munitions. latter is Borten Moe’s home county. not attend the meeting. They want nothing afterwards for the Vatican conclave in Rome. The conference is a real sign of hope for “We support Borten Moe. We have dis- to do with such peace folk. But despite their He spoke passionately against war and the world, and we congratulated the Norwe- cussed it in the county in​​ advance, and are in efforts, a global abolition movement is grow- nuclear weapons and the need for a deeper gian government for taking such strong lead- complete agreement with his assessment,” ing. spirituality and morality in the world so that ership to promote disarmament. Actor/activist Martin Sheen and I flew these weapons could be disarmed. Liv Tor- In his opening speech, Martin quoted to Oslo, Norway to speak at the civic forum res of Norwegian Peoples Aid urged policy from Robert Kennedy’s famous 1966 visit to before the conference, sponsored by The In- makers in the audience not to wait for the South Africa: ternational Campaign for the Abolition of nuclear superpowers but to go ahead and “Each time someone stands up for an Nuclear Weapons. We appeared together be- start the process for an international ban on ideal or acts to improve the lot of others or fore an excited crowd of 900 people in down- nuclear weapons. I reflected on the need for a strikes out against injustice, they send forth town Oslo. new global Gandhian/Christian ethic of non- a tiny ripple of hope and crossing each other Martin began by thanking ICAN for violence which would set a standard of using from a million different centers of energy and their work to build a global abolition move- nonviolent means to resolve conflicts instead daring, those ripples build a current which ment, and encouraged everyone to keep at it. of resorting to killing, warfare, and weapons can bring down the mightiest walls of op- He read aloud their general call: of mass destruction. pression and injustice.” “We call on states, international organi- On Monday evening, we attended a re- Last week in Oslo, Norway, Martin zations, civil society organizations and ev- ception with the Norwegian Parliament and and I felt those ripples of hope coming from eryone to acknowledge: were able to encourage many members to around the world. We hope a new current will • that any use of nuclear weapons carry on their initiative for the abolition of rise up and a tide of peace will ban all nuclear would cause catastrophic humani- nuclear weapons. We met Norway’s foreign weapons once and for all. Then we can get on tarian and environmental harm; minister, the vice president of Parliament, the with the business of eliminating hunger and • that there is a universal humanitar- mayor of Oslo, and many other officials. poverty. ian imperative to ban nuclear weap- Martin and I were particularly impressed ons, even for states that do not pos- by one of the founders of the International Photo: Center Party (Sp) sess them; Physicians for Social Responsibility who Oil and Energy Minister Ola Borten Moe. • that the nuclear-armed states have said that for the first time in four decades, an obligation to eliminate their nu- he feels hopeful about nuclear disarmament. Rev, John Dear S.J. is clear weapons completely; There has never been such an important gath- a Jesuit Priest, Peace • and that we need to take immedi- ering in history, he said, and everyone is op- Activist, Organizer, Lec- says county leader Gunn Iversen Stokke. ate action to support a multilateral timistic that an international ban on nuclear turer, Retreat leader, Borten Moe has supported drilling the process of negotiations for a treaty weapons could soon become a reality. and author/editor of 28 Nordland VI petroleum field outside of Lo- banning nuclear weapons.” At the international conference, gov- books on peace and non- foten, which has been opened for drilling During the evening event, we were in- ernment representatives were challenged to violence, including Liv- since 1994, but has many strict environmen- terviewed together on stage about our work study the humanitarian consequences of nu- ing Peace, published by tal guidlines in place. The area is also known for peace over the last three decades, how we clear weapons. They examined three areas: Doubleday. Archbishop Desmond Tutu has for its fishing and tourism industries. got involved, what we’ve done, where we get how any use of nuclear weapons would cause nominated him for the Nobel Peace Prize. But the opposition from within his own party has proved to be too much. The opinions expressed by opinion writers featured in “On the Edge” are not necessarily those of Norwegian American Weekly, and our publication of those views is not Even the second vice chairman of the an endorsement of them. Comments, suggestions and complaints about the opinions expressed by the paper’s editorials should be directed to the editor. Center Party, Trygve Slagsvold Vedum, is one of those who believe that Borten Moe < nobel < six went too far with this proposal. now until March 31, 2013. Anyone can make From page 1 From page 3 “We have enough [oil] exploration ar- a nomination. But time is running out. eas, and want to use precautionary thinking The nominee’s peacemaking work must as a basis. I therefore want to be even more recognize the important work of this local be in addition to, or outside of, their paid em- a Cypriot passport. careful than Ola Borten Moe wants to be,” non-profit. The GTPP is proud to announce ployment, and that work must make a signifi- Stein Erik Hagen and his family, retail said Slagsvold Vedum to NRK. that their Peace Prize Laureate for 2012, Fa- cant contribution to local, regional, national, giants in Norway, follow Thon on the list in At an early February press confer- ther William “Bix” Bichsel, S. J., who lives or world peace and harmony. If you know 329th place with $4 billion. Hagen is Chair- ence, Prime Minister Jens Stoltenberg also in Tacoma, was recently nominated for the of a good candidate—of any race, religion, man of the Board of Orkla, where he is a expressed his disapproval of Borten Moe’s Nobel Prize. nationality, or ideology—please consider large owner, and holds large ownerships of proposal. Those who nominated him did so be- nominating them for the 2013 Greater Taco- Steen & Strøm, Jernia and Komplett through Borten Moe told NRK that even though cause of his long history of advocacy for the ma Peace Prize. You can find the nomination his family company Canica. the proposal is not likely to make it to the homeless, his peace activism against nuclear form, list of previous winners, and more in- Kjell Inge Rokke, in the shipping and Center Party’s platform for the 2013 elec- weapons, and his efforts to support and pro- formation on the GTPP website, http://www. seafood business and in control of the com- tion, he is confident the subject will come up mote nonviolence. Now 84 years old, Father tacomapeaceprize.org. pany Aker Solutions, comes in at 458th place again in the 2017 and 2021 elections. Bichsel has never wavered in his work or The Nobel Peace Prize and Norway’s with $3 billion. The three other Norwegians “It’s only a matter of time before the dedication to the cause of world peace. efforts toward world peace inspired the cre- on the list are Arne Wilhelmsen and family Lofoten and Vesterålen areas are opened for The GTPP exists to spotlight, support, ation of the Greater Tacoma Peace Prize, (Royal Caribbean) at 931th place, Andreas oil exploration,” he said. and honor individuals, groups, and organiza- founded in 2005 to coincide with, and honor, Halvorsen (hedge funds) in 1107th place and For now, however, it looks like these tions in the greater Tacoma/Pierce County the 100th anniversary of Norway’s peaceful Petter Stordalen (hotels) in 1175th place. scenic coastal areas of northern Norway area who work toward peace, but first the separation from Sweden. The GTPP com- This year, like last year, Carlos Slim can rest easy in the knowledge that drilling committee needs to know about them. Nomi- mittee includes two members each from the Helu of Mexico is at the top with a fortune of won’t start any time soon. nations for the Greater Tacoma Peace Prize Sons of Norway, Daughters of Norway, and as much as $73 billion. The second-richest is Laureate for 2013 are being accepted from Pacific Lutheran University. Microsoft founder Bill Gates. Subscribe to the Norwegian American Weekly! Call (800) 305-0217 or email [email protected]. norwegian american weekly March 29, 2013 • 7 opinion Norwegian American Weekly Letters to the Editor Published since May 17, 1889 7301 Fifth Avenue NE Suite A, Seattle, WA 98115 Do you have something to say? Send your letters to us! Toll-free: (800) 305-0217 • Local: (206) 784-4617 7301 Fifth Avenue NE Suite A, Seattle, WA 98115 Fax: (206) 448-2033 • Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Publisher Norwegian American Foundation [email protected] Dear Editor, with-wheels) all the way to Russia. Really nesota and its iron ore ships, docks, train Managing Editor The first time I went to Norway, I tried want to see all those bears that are up in a tracks, the rust color and gloomy, often fog- Christy Olsen Field [email protected] to visit Nordland (Bodin near Bodø) where valley next to Russia and Sami country. gy weather. The sound of the iron ore ship Copy Editor and Subscriptions Manager my great-great-great grandparents (1750- I’m now 69, so if someone would fund fog horns early in the morning almost made 1840) raised the kids. The five kids came to me, it’s got to be soon. Hint, Hint, Hint, gov- me cry. You can see why our songwriter, Bob Kelsey Larson [email protected] Minnesota (the other Norway) in 1880. My ernment of Norway! I feel I make some great Dylan, ran away from Duluth and the Iron Assistant Layout Editor mother was one of the children of the five travel videos of Norway; you get my sales Range early on. Harry Svenkerud [email protected] kids. Luck be it, probably because I didn’t pitch. It will probably never happen, since Advertising go to church one Sunday, I broke my arm in every one in Lofoten, Nordland is protesting Sincerely, (206) 441-3044 [email protected] Bergen, falling down a mountain. the taking of oil from the north and sending Edward “Mike” Wick Contributing Editors So I tried again in a few years. This it down to the Norwegians in the south. Eagan, Minn. Bjarne Anthonsen Bonsall, Calif. time I made it to the Bodø Airport and had a What I soon discovered, after a cou- Melinda Bargreen Everett, Wash. station wagon waiting for me. I went to the ple days of gas station hot dogs, was that I Carla Danziger McLean, Va. local Goodwill store (donated items) near could sleep near fancy American-style ho- Gary G. Erickson Sunburg, Minn. Rasmus Falck O oslo, Norway Bodin-Hunstad and they fixed me up with tels, show up in the morning and eat a big Dear Mike, Marit Fosse G geneva, Switzerland some heavy cushions, some blankets and a breakfest, stuff my pockets with food, use Wow – that is what I call ‘traveling on Judith Gabriel Vinje Burbank, Calif. Shelby Gilje Seattle, Wash. pillow. In Minnesota some people would call the bathroom and then sit in the lobby drink- a budget!’ Line Grundstad Hanke Seattle, Wash. that a “poorman’s RV.” I called it a “motor- ing their free coffee making it look like I Though I wouldn’t recommend ‘free- Heidi Håvan Grosch Sparbu, Norway Victoria Hofmo Brooklyn, N.Y. ized tent-with-wheels.” So off I went travel- lived there. One time at a hotel was enough, loading’ at hotels in Norway, there are some Leslee Lane Hoyum R rockford, Minn. ing over to Lofoten up to Narvik, back down or they would figure out I was a freeloader. great affordable options for budget travelers Else Hvistendahl New York, N.Y. to Bodø, then a big circle south of Bodø and Bodø had four expensive hotels, Lofoten a who can’t afford hotels: like hostels (check Inger-Torill Kirkeby Miami, Fla. Scott Larsen New Westminster, B.C. back up the coast (north) of Bodø to where few, Narvik a couple. Every couple days I out www.hostelworld.com) and a great ser- Thor A. Larsen Fishkill, N.Y. my kinfolk once had a farm. Yes, if the farm would visit a campsite and take a shower and vice called Couchsurfing (www.couchsurf- Jerry Larson Zimmerman, Minn. Solveig M. Lee S seattle, Wash. would have been passed down to me, I would do my laundry, but not sleep there. ing.org) which is a unique way to connect Richard Londgren Thousand Oaks, Calif. have had a farm overlooking the ocean. If I Another thing I discovered early on with locals. Donald V. Mehus New York, N.Y. Berit T. Mesarick Williamsburg, Va. would have gotten the farm, I would have was that at tourist sites, tourists just throw Readers: to watch some of Mike’s Nor- David Moe Juneau, Alaska owned a mountain near Skjelstad with a wa- away their pop bottles. I’d go through the way travel videos, visit www.youtube.com/ Ken Nordan Batavia, Ill. terfall. trash, collect the bottles and when I had user/mikeminnesota/videos. Bill Osmundsen New York, N.Y. Sada Reed Woodbury, Minn. So I took some 5,000 digital photos of enough, take them to the grocery stores. In John Erik Stacy S seattle, Wash. Nordland and made a few Youtube travel three weeks I made $68 dollars, enough for Sincerely, Rolf Kristian Stang New York, N.Y. Kjell Olav Strømsli Trondheim, Norway videos of my adventures. a couple meals. Editor Larrie Wanberg Grand Forks, N.D. If someone would fly me over to Nor- Yes, I had a great time in Nordland. dland and pay for rental of a station wagon, From Narvik to Bodø it was just like the CORRECTIONS: Norwegian American Weekly strives to make its news report fair and accurate. If you money for gas station hot dogs and even a North Shore of Minnesota; the same kind of We would love to hear from you! have a question or comment about news coverage call (206) 784-4617. • Norwegian American Weekly couple cans of gas, I would like to photo- trees, small waterfalls, small lakes, garage Letter to the Editor graph the Nordland area south of Bodø and sales and even the campsites were just like reserves the right to edit any and all submissions for Norwegian American Weekly style, grammar, accuracy and/or space, and the right even the areas north of Narvik (an estimated home. 7301 5th Ave. NE, Ste A, Seattle, WA 98115 not to print submissions deemed libelous, in poor two months sleeping in a motorized-tent- Narvik was identical to Duluth, Min- taste, or not suited for publication in this newspaper. or send a note to [email protected] • The opinions expressed by opinion writers and letter writers are not necessarily those of Norwegian American Weekly, and our publication of those views is < response not an endorsement of them. Comments, suggestions its own response. Due to the large scale of effective resource usage, classified informa- and complaints about the opinions expressed by From page 3 the paper’s editorials should be directed to the this terror attack, the review was expanded tion exchange and updated planning. publisher. • Norwegian American Weekly is published to cover the crisis-management performance “In a crisis, it is important that we act weekly except the first week of the calendar year, Algeria’s. The main task of Norwegian au- of all relevant Norwegian public authorities. wisely and use our resources as effectively the last two weeks of July, and the first two weeks thorities was to help preserve the lives and of August by Norwegian American Weekly, INC. • In its evaluation, the Ministry focused in par- as possible,” Foreign Minister Espen Barth health of Norwegian citizens. This was done Please send address changes to 7301 Fifth Ave. ticular on the collaboration between minis- Eide says. “The evaluation report provides NE Suite A Seattle, WA 98115 • Annual Subscription through direct contact with the Algerian au- tries, agencies and other actors with respect important lessons that we will use within the Cost: US$59 Domestic, US$79 to Canada, thorities, specific offers of assistance to Al- US$179 to Norway and all other foreign countries. to responsibilities, information flow and de- Ministry of Foreign Affairs and in our deal- geria, and close coordination with the crisis- cision-making as well as the coordination of ings with partners.” SINCE MAY 17, 1889: management systems of other countries and operational measures in Algeria. In the wake of the Algeria crisis, Nor- Formerly Norway Times Statoil. Western Viking & Washington Posten The evaluation report concludes that the wegian authorities are examining ways to The Ministry of Foreign Affairs led and Norwegian authorities handled the crisis In strengthen support for Norwegian activities Comprising Nordisk Tidende, Decorah- coordinated the Norwegian authorities’ ef- Amenas in a good way. Even so, the report abroad on matters related to security. The Posten og Ved Arnen, Minneapolis-Tidende, forts during the crisis. After major events, the notes that cooperation between agencies and Ministry of Justice and Public Security is Minnesota Posten, Norrona and Skandinaven Ministry generally performs an evaluation of ministries can be improved when it comes to leading this analysis. NORWEGIAN AMERICAN WEEKLY, INC. Han Ola og Han Per 8 • March 29, 2013 norwegian american weekly Travel issue

Norwegian American Weekly Travel Issue

Photo: Håvard Myklebust / visitnorway.com Norway: one of the most beautiful countries for the hiker. This view is from Stålberget, Norangsfjorden, looking towards Slogen.

Whether you are looking to travel by plane, Planes! train, automobile or even cruise ship, Norway is Read a little bit about budget air travel within Scandinavia, includ- ing Norwegian Air and Ryan Air, on page 16. the place to go. Trains! Norway is the ultimate travel destination with On page 15, read about Patricia Barry’s experience of taking the a wide variety of options for budgets and inter- train all the way from Oslo to the end of the line in Bodø, and get some ests, as illustrated in our Travel Issue! great travel tips for a trip of your own.

Much more! Automobiles! Prefer to travel on skis? On page 12, journey along with Mark On page 21, check out Heidi Håvan Grosch’s tips for traveling by Treleaven-Jones in a trek along the unforgiving Hardangervidda. car in Norway, including how to navigate campgrounds and hytter Maybe you’d rather traverse nature on foot? Read about a Norwe- (cabins) for rent. gian’s experience hiking from Mexico to Canada along the Pacific Crest Trail on page 13. Cruise ships! On page 9, discover whether Norwegian cruise lines still has a We sincerely hope you enjoy our special Travel Issue. bit of “Norwegian spirit” aboard, despite the fact that Norwegians no longer own the company. On page 17, read about the Daughters of Norway and their fjord cruise 2013! God reise! (Have a good trip!) norwegian american weekly March 29, 2013 • 9 travel Issue The secret of the Norwegian spirit Heading up the gangway of the “Norwegian Spirit,”we wondered; is there still a Norwegian spirit left on board, many years after the Norwegian owners have left, and fewer Norwegians choose to work at sea?

Photo: John Leslie Acomb The “Norwegian Spirit” is one of many cruise ships owned by Norwegian Cruise Line, which, ironically, is no longer owned by Norwegians, but rather jointly owned by a Chinese cruise company and an American private equity firm.

Beate Viktoria Ørbeck Oslo, Norway

We were finally at the dock of Barce- We were welcomed by a staff of 900 ning around in his veins, as the name sound- a ship of this size with passengers from all lona, a well-known destination for cruises that seemed to have only one goal, and that ed very familiar. Belkys put me in contact over the world. Each crew member brings heading for the Mediterranean and the At- was to please me and my fellow travelers on with the Croatian Captain Litovic, who con- lantic, after months of typical fall weather in a 24 hours basis. Despite the name on the firmed that Peter was half Norwegian! See > spirit, page 22 Norway: rainy, dark and windy. bow, I soon realized there were no Norwe- Wow, could I have a chat with him? The sun was shining bright as we en- gians among the 51 nations on duty. How “Yes, no problem,” said the captain, and tered the gangway towards our longed-for could that be possible? We, who have been guided me to his office on the 12th deck. vacation. I had a dream of being offered Nor- a giant nation of seafarers for hundreds of wegian waffles on the bridge, as had been years? Had we lost our supremacy, leaving With sea-blood in his veins the custom on some previous cruise trips, but only the name behind? Peter grew up on Vancouver Island in that again would depend on if there were any There was, however, a large group of Canada with his Norwegian dad, who got Norwegian officers left on board. Norwegian passengers that perhaps had been out of Norway from Skjærvøy when the The bow of the ship was covered with lured by the name, but more likely the itiner- Nazis invaded Norway during WWII. On a painting of a woman’s face, strong and ary, as we were to travel to the Canary Is- a destroyer he went way west towards Ice- beautiful looking into the wind. It reminded lands – a modern day Valhalla for vacation- land, and from there immigrated to Canada. me of Norwegian wives that for hundreds of ing Norwegians. “I have always dreamed about going to sea years have been waiting for their husbands I was curious and not willing to give from when I was a little boy, as we had regu- to return from their sea voyages. There had up the thought of Norwegian waffles on the lar visits by our Norwegian seafaring rela- to be some Norwegian connections left with- bridge. So I headed for the presentation of tives passing through British Columbia on in this vessel, but where? the officers on duty. Finally the luck was their voyages around the world,” Peter told with me and I found a Norwegian name; the me. Have we lost our supremacy? Staff Captain was Peter Pedersen. At 15 years old he joined his first sea We had chosen the ship on purpose, not trial on the Norwegian sailing vessel “Chris- necessarily because of its name, but the fact Next step: how to get hold of him? tian Radich” as a deck boy, and ever since that it offered what we needed for a good I could almost feel the smell of waffles. then the sea has been in his blood. Having price, cruising an area we wanted to explore. On cruises like this, you might have worked in the cruise industry the last 18 Cruising is actually a comfortable way of ex- “your own” concierge, a person who helps years, he confirmed that the number of Nor- ploring the world. You sleep in the same bed you with almost everything you need. Our wegian crew are decreasing, however there Photo: John Leslie Acomb while being transported from place to place. designated concierge, Belkys from Peru, are still Norwegian officers on the ship, but Peter Pedersen, half-Norwegian himself and Your only concern is when or where to eat confirmed that the staff captain was a Cana- no one on duty for this voyage. He empha- Staff Captain on the “Norwegian Spirit,” be- and whether you would like to explore visit- dian. Hmm, despite this fact, I wondered if sized that it is no problem to have a crew of lieves the Norwegian spirit can indeed still be ing harbors or simply stay on board. there could be some Norwegian blood run- different nationalities. “It is beneficial for found onboard. 10 • March 29, 2013 norwegian american weekly Travel issue Norway’s out-of-the-way art treasures The fjords and mountains in Norway are magnificent, as most everyone who visits Norway can attest, but there are many places of interest other than those in nature that are overlooked, and ought to be visited

Roy Jorgensen Hopewell Junction, N.Y.

Modum i Buskerud are lucky while in the area, you might catch a The one in particular that comes to mind concert at Holmgård. For more information, is Blåfarververket in Modum, Buskerud out- visit www.visithurm.no. side Drammen. A former cobalt mining op- eration has been turned into a fantastic art Filtvet Fyr and concert venue. Every season, there is an Following the coastal route, one arrives exhibit of Norwegian or Scandinavian art in Filtvet, a cozy village on the Oslofjord. that cannot be easily seen anywhere else. On The Filtvet Fyr (Lighhouse) is a summer mu- May 13 the art museum will open with an seum which tells of Filtvet’s ties to the sea. exhibition titled, “Munch and His Friends at Within the lighthouse there will be an exhibit Modum.” The show lasts through the sum- this year of graphic artists Kristian Finborud, mer, until Sept. 22. There are five other Jan Baker, Terje Risberg and watercolorist contemporary artists with Munch who will Inger Hoff. The show opens June 22, with a be shown in this 150th anniversary birthday concert by Hot Club de Norvege. Visit www. exhibition, and mostly the paintings can only filtvetfyr.no for more information. be seen in Scandinavia, and then scattered in After viewing the show, one can walk museums and private collections. For more a few meters to Villa Malla for a sumptu- information, visit www.blaa.no; or call their ous Mediteranean buffet in the old hotel Norwegian telephone which has been restored number at 32-78-67-00. by Sonja Lee. Delicious Nearby and also worth exotic food can be had in Photo: Christian Blaa / Blåfarveværket a visit are: Fossesholm the Moorish inspired in- The ‘Scheidehuset’ at scenic Blåfarveværket in Modum, Buskerud. Herregård, Vestfossum terior or outside under the Labratorium, Kongsberg palm trees imported from Church with its unique Ba- Dubai. Adjacent to the din- roque interior, Nøstetan- ing area is Galleri Malla, gen Glass Museum and the offering shows of contem- Drammen City Museum. porary Norwegian artists. All have art collections For more information, visit worth seeing. www.villamalla.no.

Hurum i Buskerud And more on the way Going really out of the Photo courtesy Roy Jorgensen Heading back toward way is going to the Hur- ida Elisabeth Jørgensen Singh Oslo, you will drive past um peninsula, 40 minutes in her studio. two more art stops. They from Oslo. Here in Hol- are the studio of ida Elisa- msbu, one can walk from beth (yes, with a lower-case the town center and then can climb through ‘i’), the famed primitive painter who lives the woods to the unusual pink granite mu- in the so-called Tornehus, or Tower House. seum of Henrik Sørensen. The building is Hours are by appointment, but when at home constructed into the nature with windows she welcomes visitors all the time for a cup that frame scenes which could easily be one of coffee and enthusiastically shows her col- of Sørensen’s paintings. Oluf Wold Thorne orful works and antiques in the side studio. and Thorvald Erichsen, also of the Holmsbu For more information visit www.idaelisa- art colony, are represented in the galleries. beth.no. Be sure to look for the cats. There is Photo: Søren Rodriguez / Flickr For more information, visit www.holmsbu- a cat hidden in every painting. The Filtvet Lighthouse (Filtvet Fyr) on the Oslofjord. billedgalleri.no. The last stop in Hurum is the Galleri Upon leaving the museum, one can Gallera in the village of Storsand. Olav walk down the hillside to Støa to see the cur- Grimstad runs a gallery with his own lovely rent exhibit of the Hurumkunstnerforening watercolors and pottery by Chilean artist of contemporary Norwegian artists, and Isabel Aragon who lives in the area. There is also check out the handicrafts in the fishing a small antiques shop and antiquarian book shack on the Drammensfjord. Afterward, corner in another room. Visit www.galleri- amble back on the single-lane road to Hol- gallera.no. msbu, where you can dine at one of several After leaving the gallery, take a detour restaurants overlooking the peaceful harbor on the way to Oslo via the Oslofjord Tunnel, surrounded by a plethora of roses. On the the deepest in the world, and visit Drøbak, way out of the village, it is a must to stop at another cozy art center on the other side of Holmsbu church which was decorated by the the Oslofjord. artists of the Holmsbu artists’ colony. If you

Be our Facebook fan! Share your ideas and comments with us, and join the conversation with other readers of the Norwegian Photo: Erik F. Brandsborg / Aktiv i Oslo American Weekly! The regal interior of the Holmsbu Bildegalleri, outside Oslo. norwegian american weekly March 29, 2013 • 11 travel Issue

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Retirement Living 6720 E Green Lake Way N Seattle, WA 98103 flysas.com/us at Seattle’s Green Lake www.hearthstone.org (206) 517-2213 12 • March 29, 2013 norwegian american weekly Travel issue Hytte to hytte on the Hardangervidda An unconventional holiday: hytte-hopping with DNT on an extended cross-country skiing trip in Norway

Photos: Mark Treleaven-Jones Left: The barren, windswept, and beatiful Hardangervidda. Right: The hytte at Finse, nearly invisible in the drifting snow.

Mark Treleaven-Jones Wales, U.K.

As we stood in the deserted tunnel that since she could stand, albeit the sum of my pull off and disappear into the distance. broken by discussions involving routes, constituted Hallingskeid railway station, be- experience on skis at the time probably only Pulling ourselves together, we donned weather, equipment and a myriad of other reft only of rolling tumbleweed to complete amounted to two weeks’ worth. On top of our skis and set off for our accommodation, shared interests. the picture, we looked at each other and this, we had sought advice from experienced a hytte owned by the Bergen Hiking Asso- That first night saw us settling down to wondered: what in the world had we let our- travellers, friends and family, and spent a lot ciation. For those unfamiliar with the moun- a meal of “Joika” (processed reindeer meat- selves in for? of time selecting equipment and routes. tain cabins of Norway, they are similar to balls in gravy) and potatoes, which we pre- Only two years after being introduced to The initial stage of the trip saw us trav- youth hostels. Most are owned by the DNT, pared in the more-than-adequately equipped cross country skiing by Hanne, my Norwe- elling from Oslo to Hallingskeid on the Oslo which is the Norwegian Trekking Associa- kitchen, and ate by candlelight in front of a gian partner, and her family, we were setting to Bergen train. If you should ever have the tion, and are either staffed with food served, roaring fire. The only downside to the hytte out on our firsthytte to hytte (cabin to cabin) opportunity this is a “must do” railway trip self-service, or bed only. Membership of the was that the toilets were situated in a neigh- tour on the Hardangervidda in Norway, the and should definitely be taken during day- DNT ensures reduced rates at the hytter and boring building and involved donning boots, highest plateau in Northern Europe. Ever light hours. The views from the train really a stay involving a few nights’ accommoda- coats and the carrying of a shovel to dig the since my first tentative steps on cross coun- are breathtaking. tion makes it worthwhile to join. Those cab- snow from in front of the door to gain ac- try skis at Skullerud in Oslo, with no prior The train we took was very busy and, ins not owned by the DNT, such as Halling- cess due to quite a heavy snowfall – but it all skiing experience whatsoever, I had had this as we eventually passed the iconic hotel at skeid, are operated in very much the same added to the experience. picture in my head of Kirk Douglas fleeing Finse, Finse 1222, the highest railway sta- way and most offer similar discounts to DNT We awoke the following morning to a the pursuing Nazi storm troopers in the film tion in Norway, we began to gather our gear members. rather grey and windy day, but were grati- “The Heroes of Telemark.” Delusional? Pos- as Hallingskeid was the next stop. The ex- On our arrival at the hytte we were fied to know that our newfound German sibly! Naïve? Definitely! Yet here we were, citement was building over this journey into pleased to find a basic but cozy establish- friends were travelling to the same destina- in the very same place those heroes of World the unknown, but as the train pulled into the ment with a well-stocked pantry that op- tion, the DNT hytte at Finse. As one of them War II had evaded their pursuers during one station, situated inside a tunnel, we were erated on an honesty system. We were not was a certified guide, and well-travelled in of the worst storms in living history. horrified to find we were the only passen- alone there, as we found a couple of German the area, we were encouraged to set off in We were not totally unprepared, though. gers disembarking at this deserted spot in guys already in residence. This is one of the conditions that would have otherwise left us I had grown up in the Welsh mountains and, the middle of nowhere. I don’t recall a word wonderful aspects of overnighting in the hyt- debating whether to travel or not. as a Norwegian, Hanne had been skiing passing between us as we watched the train ter: everybody has a common purpose and As we left the hytte, we very quickly thereby conversation with complete strang- learned that the well-meaning advice we had ers is easy and relaxed, with the ice being Join Vesterheim for this Extraordinary Tour to Norway See > hardangervidda, page 14 A trip you Folk Art Study Tour won’t want Summer 2014 to miss! Immerse yourself in this study of traditional and contemporary Norwegian folk art and culture! • Get up close and personal with the rosemaling, decorative painting, and woodworking of Norway • Compare and contrast the various styles of folk art Jul is just around the corner! • Enjoy visits to museums, studios, private collections, Find gifts for everyone on your list this year churches, woodenware shops, antique shops, and more in our store and online. • Anyone who loves folk art will enjoy this tour www.scanspecialties.com For more info about all of our 2014 Tours to Norway, 6719 NW 15th Avenue, Seattle, WA 98117 check vesterheim.org, or contact Michelle Whitehill Phone: (206) 784-7020 — Toll free: (877) 784-7020 Norwegian-American Museum at 563-382-9681 or [email protected]. Mastercard and Visa accepted. Hundreds of items available for nation-wide shipping! norwegian american weekly March 29, 2013 • 13 travel Issue Norwegian on the Pacific Crest Trail A Norwegian hiker takes on one of the longest trails in the U.S., and makes connections along the way

Photos courtesy Stein A. Rypdal Left: Starting out from Campo, Calif., the southern terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail. Right: Truckin’ along and enjoying the beautiful scenery along the PCT, here in North Cascades, Wash.

Stein A. Rypdal Molde, Norway For a limited time save 5% off HURTIGRUTEN’S EVERYDAY LOW PRICE

May 4, 2012. It’s a beatiful morning in known as thru-hiking. In the summer of 2012 Campo, a small village on the Mexican bor- I was one of them. der in Southern California. A car rolls up and Like a lot of Norwegians I have always stops right next to the border fence. I get out been fond of the outdoors. I grew up in a and put my backpack on. I’m going across small town called Molde, on the Norwegian the border. But there’s no border crossing west coast, and spent my childhood close to here... nature, be it skiing, hiking, hunting or fish- Two Border Patrol agents drive by, but ing. But as is often the case nowadays job they don’t seem to worry about it. They and career often lead people to the big cities, NORWAY know I’m not going south. Instead I turn far away from the wilderness. For the past 10 around and look to the north: ‘Canada – only years or so I have been living and working in SPITSBERGEN 2,660 miles away! I’d better start walking!’ Oslo, Norway’s capitol and biggest city. And Thus started my hike of the Pacific Crest I have to admit that it wasn’t the ‘call of the Trail from Mexico to Canada. wild’ that first drew me to the U.S. In Nor- GREENLAND The Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) is one way, as in the rest of the world, media sells of the original National Scenic Trails and ‘californication’ and a couple of years ago I EUROPE SAVE AN was established by act of Congress in 1968. decided that I had to go and see for myself: ADDITIONAL 5% At 2,660 miles it is also one of the longest Los Angeles, Disneyland, San Francisco, ANTARCTICA trails in the U.S., as it makes its way from Las Vegas, the sights. OFF OUR BEST Campo, CA thru California, Oregon and But on my first visit I also discovered CURRENT OFFERS Washington, before ending at the Canadian the great idea that is the National Park Sys- ON SELECT 2013 SAILINGS border a few miles south of Manning Park, tem. I’ve kept coming back to the U.S. to ex- www.rwti.com British Columbia. The trail follows the main plore them, first as an amateur photographer, Pacific mountains ranges, most notably the then as a hiker. Then, in the summer of 2011, FOR mORE INFORmATION AND RESERVATIONS, Sierra Nevada mountain range of California as I was hiking south on the John Muir Trail and the Cascade mountain range of Oregon thru the High Sierras, I happened to run into and Washington. It runs through some of the main herd of that year’s PCT-hikers com- the most beautiful scenery in the U.S. Ev- ing north. I was simply amazed. People from Rainier World Travel ery summer a couple of hundreds of hikers attempt to hike the entirety of the trail, also See > pacific crest, page 14 800-432-4456 p www.rwti.com p Issaquah, WA 14 • March 29, 2013 norwegian american weekly Travel issue < hardangervidda From page 12 the food, it would have been acceptable if it had been simple but sufficient. That descrip- received from friends and relatives was not tion, however, would be a grave injustice as as accurate as we had been led to believe. it was both plentiful and delicious. Firstly was the misconception that the trails Finse itself is ideal as a start / finish between the various hytte were prepared. point for a trip in the mountains. Access is We had presumed that this meant the trails by rail or ski only, bicycle in the summer, were groomed in much the same manner as and it is possible to hire skis and boots from the trails we were used to following around the nearby hotel, Finse 1222, as well as Oslo. In the mountains, the preparation refers snowshoes. The hotel itself is worth a visit to the routes actually being marked, which purely for its historical references in respect is achieved by birch branches being placed of the building and running of the railway. at regular intervals to show the route. So, Additionally, it was at Finse that Captain although we knew which way we were go- Robert Falcon Scott trained with his men ing, we were breaking our own trail through before their fated journey to the South Pole. fresh snow which highlighted our second Outside the hotel is an obelisk dedicated to shortcoming. On the back of being misled the five men: Scott, Edward Wilson, Henry over the type of trail, we were advised that Bowers, Lawrence Oates and Edgar Evans. we would require nothing more elaborate This memorial also brings home the fact that than our everyday “skinny” cross country the Hardangervidda can be an extremely in- skis and boots. Big mistake! Not deterred hospitable area, since polar explorers visit Photo courtesy Stein A. Rypdal by these shortcomings however, and taking the plateau to train for such remote parts My cousin Caden came out and picked me up at Donner Pass, Calif., and helped me out them in our stride as lessons learned for next of the planet as the North and South poles. with my mid-hike resupply and gear replacement. Here I am visiting with Caden and his wife time, we made the best of it and eventually Amundsen too spent much time on the Har- Corin in Rocklin, Calif. arrived safe, but exhausted, at Finse. dangervidda and there is a race held there As DNT premises go, Finsehytta is one every year called the Amundsen Expedition. of their largest and even boasts its own “mi- From Finse it is possible to plan several circuitous routes, via various other hytte, al- < Pacific Crest crobrewery,” though there is nothing remote- ly “micro” about the cost of beer in Norway! lowing you to end your trip back at Finse be- From page 13 the U.S. – Mexican border, I made my way fore catching your return train. Additionally, down the switchbacks to Monument 78 on It is a staffed lodge with a bar / shop that sells a selection of “must have” items, as Finse boasts a small downhill slope with a all walks of life. From college students to re- the U.S. – Canadian border marking the lift and a large frozen lake, on which you can northern terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail. well as various ski waxes and outdoor equip- tirees. With one common goal: To hike from ment. As in all the hytter, the staff is friendly hone your skills before setting off on your Mexico to Canada. It planted a seed in me, I was bearded and weary after months on the trip. The nearby ice cap, Hardangerjøkulen, trail, and as I reached and the atmosphere is conducive to amiable and ten months later conversation and new friendships. The ac- also makes a nice round day trip from Finse. I had quit my job in the monument a bliss- The following morning, after again “The kindness and hospitality ful feeling of accom- commodation costs are on a sliding scale de- Oslo and was sitting pending on whether you opt for a dormitory, checking on weather conditions and who on an airplane across that I experienced from my Nor- plishment set in. I was else was travelling in the same direction, happy to have succed- four-bed or two-bed room. Dinner is served the Atlantic. Ready to wegian-American family was just in a large dining room at several long tables we set off for our next destination, Krækkja. start my own hike. ed and was looking Breakfast had been another delight with a amazing, also forging friendships forward to some long and the host, with Germanic organization, Most people, in- informs you at which table to sit and then buffet to suit all tastes and needs. As with cluding me, hike the for life.” needed rest. Still, I couldn’t help but feel goes on to call the occupants of each table Pacific Crest Trail up, at intervals, to collect their food. As for See > hardangervidda, page 23 from south to North, a bit sad that the jour- and the hiking season generally lasts from ney was coming to an late April to early October. The key is to start end. But hey, there are still more trails to be late enough to allow the snow in the Sierra hiked. Don’t be surprised if you see me on Nevada to melt, but early enough to make it one of the other National Scenic Trails some to Canada before winter sets in again, and it day. takes the average hiker about 5 months to th- To read more about Stein’s hike, and see ru-hike the trail. This means getting up with more pictures from the trip, check out his the sun, hike for 10-12 hours carrying every- website at www.rypdal.net. thing you need to survive for several days in your backpack, then go to bed, wake up the next morning and follow the same schedule over again. If you do this and hike 20 miles a day you get to take a day off every ten days. This may sound tedious and boring to some, but in a strange way it isn’t. At least it wasn’t for me. Every day on the trail would take me through some new scenery and offer new views and experiences. Not to mention all the people I got to meet. Although I started out from Campo alone, I was never lonely on the trail. By the time I reached Sierra Nevada I had teamed up with 4 other solo hikers and we ended up hiking together almost all the way to Canada, forging friendships for life. Photo: Mark Treleaven-Jones Like most Norwegians I also have rela- The hytte at Hallingskeid, the first hytte Mark and Hanne visited. tives in the U.S. More numerous and closer in kin then I was first aware of actually. I’ve come to learn that I have relatives along the entire Pacific Crest Trail, from San Diego in the south to Seattle in the north, and I was Find us online: www.marinamarket.com very happy to take this opportunity to con- Christmas nect with my Norwegian-American side of items start Home of the arriving in the family. First as I was moving north on the October! trail, and later as I was moving south after Licorice Shrine the trail. The kindness and hospitality that I with over 300 licorices! experienced from my Norwegian-American family was just amazing, also forging friend- Photo courtesy Stein A. Rypdal Marina Market 18882 Front Street • Poulsbo, WA 98370 ships for life. O Canada – I made it! The northern termi- Phone: (888) 728-0837 • Fax: (360) 779-4315 Late in the afternoon on September 3rd nus of the Pacific Crest Trail on the U.S. – We stock all your favorite treats email: [email protected] of 2012, four months after I set out from Canadian border. and hard-to-find items from Scandinavia! Blog: http://gotlicorice.blogspot.com norwegian american weekly March 29, 2013 • 15 travel Issue The best bargain Travel and wayfinding Mapping heritage and backtracking through history for Taking the train from Oslo to Bodø reveals a family tour to the ancestral farm in Norway hundreds of miles of scenery for a great price

Photo: John Barry Crossing the Polarsirkel: a highlight of the ride. Photo: Lars Wanberg Looking from the Vanberg farm front gate and back toward Olden on the right and Loen straight ahead.

Patricia Barry Hopewell Junction, N.Y. Larrie Wanberg Feature Editor Would you enjoy seeing 1200 km. of sides of the hills between Otta and Dombås. unparalleled Norwegian scenery? And at The folkloric Dovrefjell. surprisingly bargain prices? You may want We arrived in Trondheim about 7 a.m., “Wayfinding” is a family travel project signing the Homestead Act of 1862 into law to consider taking the train between Oslo and having had a modest amount of sleep. We that began last week and ends in 2014 when that opened Dakota Territory for settlement. Bodø. had a short layover, with just enough time to a grandfather, as patriarch of a Norwegian “Wayfinding,” as a concept, encompass- In June 2006 my family had the oppor- eat. We boarded the train and found our re- family-farm name in America, takes nine es all of the ways in which people establish tunity to ride the train from Oslo to Bodø. served seats on the Nordlandsbanen, or Nor- grandchildren and other family members on themselves in a geographic homeplace and We traveled to Norway for the wedding of dland Railway, for the 10-hour trip to Bodø. a tour to Norway to visit the family farm in then navigate from place to place across a our exchange student Camilla in Tromsø. Unlike the larger and more modern train Nordfjord where the family name originated global map. With a leisurely schedule for getting from from Oslo, Nordland Railway was smaller centuries ago. In preparation for our family legacy tour Oslo to the wedding, we were attracted by with older train cars. For our family, we want to “Story Map” next year, members of our family this year the lure of the train. We made reservations Now in daylight for the rest of the train our heritage in ways to better pass on the will backtrack history to document the fam- to take the train from Oslo to the end of the ride (and the next few days), we left the more family history to future generations with a ily heritage of each place that my grandpar- line, Bodø, and then fly to Tromsø. For us, populated Trondheim area and enjoyed the visual story of our common genetic “DNA ents and ancestors lived in America, as they the trip – the 18-hour train trip, followed by scenery as the train moved along, continu- – Discovering Nordic Ancestry” – and use hop scotched across Wisconsin and Minne- a flight in northern Norway – was part of the ing to follow E-6 along rivers and through modern GPS technologies to “map pin” our sota during immigrant times until my par- adventure. mountains and forests. We rode around family genealogy across two continents. ents anchored in Towner, N.D. in 1919. We opted for the low-price minipris Korgfjellet, home to the “Blood Road,” or Family place names reflect the identity By the time we travel to Norway in train tickets. NSB, or Norges Statsbaner Blodveien, then to Mo i Rana. of gene-linked ancestry, like the deepest tap- 2014, we will have re-traced our gene-linked (Norwegian State Railways), offers a limited The terrain became higher and more root of a family tree. Even country names family’s journey to its deepest genealogy number of minipris tickets between destina- barren as the train crossed Saltfjellet and the have roots of meaning that span generations, roots on a small farm near Olden, Norway. tions. Minipris ticket prices vary based on Arctic Circle, or Polarsirkel. The visitor’s such as the word “Norway” – the Way North. Last week, I met with my friend of 64 availability and demand. In 2006 the mini- center and monument were clearly visible Our Norway tour will also include the years, Arne Brekke, founder of Brekke Tours pris tickets were as low as 199 NOK, $30 at from the train and marked a significant mile- 200-year celebration of the country’s con- Scandinavia, to plan our family legacy tour that time, which is what we paid. Recently stone along the route. At Lønsdal, the first stitution in 2014 and to participate in a July to Norway in 2014 to visit the Vanberg farm the cheapest minipris tickets were raised to stop north of the Arctic Circle, we stepped 4th gathering for the 100-year anniversary of in Nordfjord. He has convinced me over the 249 NOK, about $44, still a bargain. off the train to stretch and get fresh air. The North Dakota’s gift to Norway of the Presi- Our minipris tickets included reserved pace was leisurely. At Fauske the train dent Lincoln statue in Oslo, honoring his See > wayfinding, page 18 seats, which we found as we boarded the turned west for the final part of the trip along late-night train at Oslo sentralstasjon for the Skjerstadfjorden and Saltfjorden. first of leg of our journey, the 8-hour ride to We arrived in Bodø nearly 19 hours af- Trondheim, sometimes called Dovrebanen ter leaving Oslo. Although the train ride was NORWEGIAN AMERICAN or the Dovre Railway. On our seats were the long and we were happy to be walking and GENEALOGICAL CENTER & NAESETH LIBRARY necessities for night time travel – blankets, enjoying beautiful Bodø, we did not feel ______ear plugs, eye masks, and pillows. It was a tired and were very happy that we had taken 415 West Main Street • Madison, WI 53703-3116 Tel: (608) 255-2224 Fax: (608) 255-6842 modern train and the seats were comfortable, the train from Oslo. We stayed overnight in [email protected] • nagcnl.org even for sleeping. Bodø at a guest house and flew the next day Library Hours: Monday - Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. We were traveling in late June and there to Tromsø. was still some darkness at night in southern Bodø by itself could be a destina- Norway. The train generally follows E-6, a tion and was included on the list of Na- 2013 GENEALOGICAL RESEARCH TOUR road we had driven before, and many of the tional Geographic Traveler Best Trips Family History Library of the places we saw were familiar to us. 2013 (http://travel.nationalgeographic. This first part of the trip was dream- com/travel/best-trips-2013/#/boats-bodo- Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints like. Falling in and out of sleep, we travelled norway_61092_600x450.jpg). in Salt Lake City, Utah through what seemed like mystical places. You can also experience the thrill of October 27 - November 3, 2013 The shores of Mjøsa. Lillehammer. Gud- riding the Nordland Railway from your brandsdalen, with its lighted farmhouses own home at http://www.nrk.no/nord- Work with the largest collection of genealogical materials in the world! NAGC & NL staff will high on the hills. Ringebu, where we had landsbanen/. A variation of NRK’s popular assist you with your research and be available for personal consultation, along with knowl- edgeable library staff and volunteers. Together with all these resources, your genealogical once stopped to see its stave church. Water- questions will be addressed. Visit our website or call for a brochure with full details and falls falling close to the train down the steep See > bargain, page 22 registration form. 16 • March 29, 2013 norwegian american weekly Travel issue Norway as a gateway to Scandinavia Already planning a trip to Norway? Don’t forget; it’s easy to check out other Scandinavian destinations! How to make

Kelsey Larson Managing Editor Copenhagen cheap(er)

Brought to you by Terri Mapes, Scandinavia Travel editor for You already know that Norway is a plane ticket. With spectacular nature, fasci- About.com great Scandinavian country to visit, but may- nating history and a great music scene, Ice- be you want to see a little more of Scandi- land is not an opportunity to be missed! Read It’s quite an expensive city, but Transportation in the City: navia while you are there. Who can blame more at http://www.icelandair.us/ you can make Copenhagen cheap. Well, When you arrive in Copenhagen, you? Scandinavia has many beautiful sites cheaper. The Scandinavian cities will cheap transportation is widely available. and fun experiences to share. When I lived Denmark, Sweden and Germany via Nor- likely never quite qualify as truly “cheap” Bike rentals are abundant and the city is in Norway, I was able to visit Sweden – both way’s Color Line destinations overall. Just remember that very accepting of people who travel via Stockholm and the High Coast – Denmark, Cruise line Color Line offers many af- traveling to Copenhagen is a once-in- bicycle. There is also public transporta- Finland and Lithuania, all on a student’s fordable packages to get you to Denmark a-lifetime chance to see a beautifully tion that is free if you invest in a Copen- budget. from its homeport in Larvik, which is only unique and modern European capital. hagen card. These cards are for sale in the Thanks to Norway’s wide variety of about an hour and half’s drive down the Copenhagen is a large, modern city city as well as online prior to arriving. travel options, this is a relatively easy feat– coast from Oslo. Cruising to Denmark offers and home to the world’s oldest amuse- You can purchase a card for one to five in fact, it can even be affordable. many great benefits; the trip takes under four ment park, Bakken, which was built in days and vary in price by age of the trav- hours in total; the ship boasts 1000 square 1583. Adopting an interest in local cul- eler and days desired. This city card also Norway via Iceland meters of duty-free shopping; and there are ture and activities is the key to visiting allows free or highly discounted entrance Flying Iceland Air to Norway has many amenities including play areas for the kids Copenhagen cheap. With a good amount to over 65 museums. It’s great to make advantages – low fares and good service be- and a full buffet restaurant. Best of all, the of planning, a trip to this city can be quite Copenhagen cheaper. ing two of them, at least in my experience fare for one person + one car, one-way, rings inexpensive and well worth the effort. – but one of the best is that a stopover in in at only NOK 785, about $136. Not too Most of the savings will be in the reser- Sleeping in Copenhagen: Iceland comes at no extra charge. If you are bad. For an extra person, tack on an afford- vations you make several months prior to The best way to stay in Copenha- flying to Europe from the U.S. or Canada, able NOK 30 (and note that, from now until actually traveling to the city of Copenha- gen cheap is to stay in accommodations you can stay in Iceland for up to seven nights May, a discounted price is being offered). gen, which is why research and planning that are an alternative to a touristy hotel. – without losing any money on your original The boat will drop you off in Hirtshals, early is important for a cheaper outcome. A hostel with a community kitchen can not far from Aalborg. Let’s look at the pillars of travel plan- save a person hundreds of dollars a day. Color Line also of- CALL FOR NOMINATIONS ning and find out how to make things a Apartments are also for rent for those fers trips between bit cheaper… with children or who desire more privacy. FOR THE 9TH ANNUAL GREATER TACOMA PEACE PRIZE Oslo and Kiel, Ger- A good apartment will have a kitchen and The Greater Tacoma Peace Prize Committee invites nominations for the many; Kristiansand Traveling to Copenhagen: likely offer a better weekly rate than a ho- 2013 award from individuals and organizations. and Hirtshals; and Of course, basic budget travel tips tel. The savings lie in the willingness and Sandefjord and apply here as well. When you plan your ability to prepare your own food, and can

Strømstad, in Swe- flight to Copenhagen, remember that your be substantial.

den. Read more at dates are the key to keeping rates low. There are also people who rent rooms http://www.color- Your flexibility in when you can travel and bed and breakfast establishments in line.no/. can make a difference in the expense of the city for cheaper than hotel rates. The your trip by hundreds of dollars. The oth- benefit of staying with a family or host Fantastic options er key factor in getting good prices on air- in a room is the local insider information via Norwegian Air fare is making your reservations several that they will share with travelers – these Previous Laureates You’ve heard it months in advance. Although, there are insights are great when planning a night 2012 - William J. Bichsel, S.J. 2006 - Conflict Resolution, before, but I’ll say companies that provide major discounts out or when neighborhood information is 2011 - Donald Mott Research and Resource it again; Norwegian on last-minute flights, which are hard to important. 2010 - Kim Ebert-Colella Institute (William F. Air, Norway’s dis- find but well worth it if your schedule al- 2009 - David T. Alger Lincoln, Polly Davis, and count airline service, 2008 - David Corner Dawn Hooper) lows for a spontaneous vacation. Dining in Copenhagen: 2007 - Ronald Pierre Vignec 2005 - George F. Russell, Jr. offers affordable The time of year will also bring bet- The locals in the area will always flights to dozens of ter deals – travel in the fall or spring will know where the best quality food is, at The nominee must be located in the Greater Tacoma/Pierce County locations in Scandi- area and must have made a significant contribution to local, national, eliminate the tourist season as well as the best prices. When in Copenhagen, or world peace and/or made a positive impact on the Greater navia. I flew Norwe- the colder season, so you will have less cheap eats are usually found at lunchtime Tacoma area. The award recipient will be announced in April. gian Air to Copen- crowds and be more comfortable while by the restaurants that cater to the tour- hagen, Helsinki and traveling on a limited budget. ists. A big meal once a day is typical and Deadline for Nominations: March 31, 2013 Stockholm and was Further information and a nomination form can be found at the Even not being in the thick of things should be in the morning or at noon. This GTPP website www.tacomapeaceprize.org never disappointed. will make the trip more affordable. Plan- allows for a lighter and less expensive Phone: 253-752-8450 Email: [email protected] The service was ning and researching local areas outside meal in the evening. If staying in lodging of the city center will allow you to experi- with a kitchen, even better – it will come See > gateway, Endorsed by the Pierce County and Tacoma City Councils ence the people, local customs, and save in handy when sightseeing for the day page 22 a bit of money while doing so. and trying to stick with a budget. Just get your basic foods locally. A grocery store Leif erikson Lodge 2-001, sons of norway Attractions and Activities: should be located as soon as you arrive Culture, entertainment and fun for young and old – Come join us! Copenhagen offers a lot of activi- or prior to your trip, so any desires for ties that are cheap but they need to be snacks don’t send you around the corner researched and a loose itinerary should to the nearest expensive cafe for a snack. April 10 Wine Tasting and Appetizers $15. Program: “Riding With be made for the trip. Some museums will All in all, these money saving tips Reindeer” – Membership Meeting following. offer free days during the week when can also be applied to all other Scandi- April 13 they aren’t visited as much. The parks are navian cities – and they should! There’s 2nd Saturday Kaffestua. Coffee, Pasteries, Open-Faced kept well and some will offer free activi- no need to spend hard earned money in Sandwiches. Donation Suggested $4. 2nd Saturday Happy ties and events throughout the year. The tough times if you prefer sticking to a Hour. Lite Supper $5 (includes two beverages). gardens in the city are a sight worth see- budget. Just remember…a cheap trip to Other April Events ing and are great for those who want to the Scandinavian cities is what is desired Exercise Class – every Wednesday at 10 a.m. 45-minute “Fit stroll with a light lunch in hand. And if by most who travel here – and many plac- After 50” $3/each Kaffestua – Monday through Friday (except holidays) 10 a.m. you want to see a few of the more pricey es actually accommodate those on a bud- Questions? Need membership – 2:30 p.m. Donation. ones, consider getting a city card for dis- get. Ask about discounts and plan ahead. info? Call (206) 783-1274 counted (or free) admission. Leif erikson HaLL, 2245 n.W. 57tH st., seattLe, Wa 98107 norwegian american weekly March 29, 2013 • 17 travel Issue Cruise for a cause UNESCO and you The Daughters of Norway sponser their third fundraising cruise, this time to the land of their roots UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites emphasize locations of cultural and natural significance in Norway

Denise Leland Seattle, Wash.

As summer approaches, so do visions of you can visit the Alta Museum and the only vacations dancing in our heads. If it is Nor- public look at rock paintings and markings way that you are longing for, take a look at in Norway. This rock art tells a story of the these World Heritage Sites. Some you may ancient peoples of the Nordic land and will have heard of, while other sites might sur- definitely provide you with a new look on prise you. Regardless, these cultural and Norway. natural sites, as chosen by UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Urnes Stave Church Organization), provide the best of Norway The next UNESCO site we come to is Photo: Terje Rakke/Nordic life – Visitnorway.com and not only its historical influence on the the Urnes Stave Church located in Sogn. The Daughters of Norway fjord cruise will include views of Geirangerfjord. world, but the development of Norway’s rich The church is a sound representation of the and unique identity that we love so much. elaborate wooden architecture of traditional Kelsey Larson Scandinavia in the 12th and 13th centuries. Managing Editor Alta Rock Carvings Wooden detailing highlights the Celtic and If you find yourself way up north near Viking inspiration found in many historical Tromsø, it might be worth it to check out the sites of Norway. The church, like that of the The Daughters of Norway are using Gerdrum Lodge #41, the same lodge where Rock Drawings of Alta. These thousands of some 1,300 medieval stave churches on re- their passion for both Norway and philan- Ellen Hinds is a member; from top to bot- paintings and engravings are not only visu- cord, remains impressive for its blending of thropy to sponser a seven-day fjord cruise to tom, the cruise is truly a Daughters of Nor- ally interesting but have provided invaluable natural surroundings with an entirely wood- Norway. way effort. evidence of prehistoric humans near the Arc- en structure. The use of cylindrical columns The cruise, which will depart Copenha- Daughters of Norway members and tic Circle. Depicted in these rock drawings and semicircular arches express a classical gen, Denmark on August 24 before visiting their families invite anyone to join them on are various animals, including reindeer, elk, Romanesque architecture with the Scandi- Oslo, Stavanger, Ålesund, Geiranger, and the cruise, whether they are familiar with the bears and whales but also ancient lifestyle navian touch of natural wood. The Urnes Bergen, is a fundraising effort for the orga- organization or not; after all, Norwegian- activities like boating, hunting and even Stave Church sits with a striking backdrop of nization. Americas are the one of the most pleasant dancing and rituals. Some of the paintings the north bank of Sognefjord and is certainly “Cruises are our most effective way of groups to travel with. On the Alaska cruise and carvings date as far back as 4200 and a site to see. fundraising,” says Ellen Hinds, past Grand in 2009, Hinds’ husband stopped to help a 500 BC. Of the 45 rock sites, the largest lo- Lodge President and chair of the Cruise woman with something she had dropped. cale is at Hjemmeluft/Jiepmaluokta, where See > UNESCO, page 22 Committee. “It’s a great experience.” When she saw the button he was was wear- The money raised through the cruise ing that pronounced him a member of the will go in part to the Daughters of Norway Daughters of Norway group, she smiled and scholarship fund, which has had great suc- said: “Those Norwegians. They are so won- Experience cess this year. “We have raised enough to derful!” give five $1500 scholarships,” says Hinds. It is that wonderful Norwegian heritage “Sometimes we can only give four, or only that has inspired many people to join the $1000, so this is a great year.” cruise. “Most people who are doing this want The Norwegian cruise will be the cherry to get back to their roots,” says Hinds. “They on top of two other successful cruises spon- just have a real connection, emotionally, sored by the Daughters of Norway. In 2009, with where their family came from.” Since I ta l y the organization cruised to Alaska, while in everyone is responsible for getting to Scan- 2011 they sponsored a cruise tour of New dinavia on their own, Hinds says that many England and Canada. Hinds went along on will extend their trip either before or after the both cruises. “My husband and I have to- cruise to meet with family or to visit heritage tally enjoyed the experience,” says Hinds, sites of importance to them. In the Mt. Ver- describing past cruises that have included non travel office, Karin Zamarripa can work great meals and shopping, great connections, out any kind of travel package. This flexibil- beautiful views, and even Scandinavian en- ity is another advantage of the trip. tertainment. Hinds strongly believes that the Daugh- The August 2013 cruise will be on the ters of Norway cruise is an absolute must for eleven-deck “Vision of the Seas,” a Royal anybody considering travel to Norway. “It’s Caribbean ship. With eight pools and whirl- been such a positive experience for my hus- pools, eight bars and lounges, a spa and a band and me, and for the members who have COUNTRY ROADS OF casino – not to mention beautiful fjord views gone,” she says. “Food, entertainment, and TUSCANY AND UMBRIA – there is sure to be not a single dull moment everything is all part of the price. It really is for those who will be on the cruise with the the best, most affordable way to travel!” Daughters of Norway. Booking is being han- For more information about the Daugh- October 18–28, 2013 dled by Karin Zamarripa in the Mt. Vernon, ters of Norway Fjord Cruise 2013, contact Discover Italy’s charming hill towns Wash. AAA Travel office. Zamarripa herself Karin Zamarripa at (360) 848-2083, or (800) is a Daughters of Norway member of Nelli 743-1703, ext. 2083. Escorted by Char Rustan Brekke, see another side of Italy on this 11-day tour 7-Day Norwegian Fjord Cruise through Tuscany and Umbria’s smaller, more authentic towns. Along the way, savor August 24 – 31, 2013 Priced from $724 For additional tours & regional specialties and enjoy Italian wines specials, visit us online! with every dinner.

To request a 2013 brochure, contact Brekke Tours & Travel: Contact: Karin Zamarripa (360) 848-2083 AAA Mount Vernon Office Daughters of 1600 East College Way, Ste A Norway (800) 743-1703 – ext. 2083 ― ― ― Mount Vernon, WA 98273 [email protected] www.BrekkeTours.com 1 800 437 5302 18 • March 29, 2013 norwegian american weekly Travel issue < wayfinding From page 15

A personal touch years that place names are a cultural treasure for families and that names have mortality Nor-Am Tours in Wisc. works with each individual like the living organisms that carry the name. style to plan the perfect heritage tour to Norway In our travel plans, we will visit Voss, where my Norwegian-born wife lived during her upbringing and where their grandmother that they never knew is buried by the old church. The grandchildren can hear stories from her brother and a brother-in-law who still live there. They have heard many of my stories but family history is never as “real” as when one stands in the place where the story happened. My descendants, I strongly believe, should be aware of their family identity, their place of origin, and what our name means from authentic place name research. For example, our family name comes from a place where certain Birch trees grew shorter near the tree line on the mountain Photo: Lars Wanberg above the Vanberg farm (also referenced as Entrance to the Vanberg Farm from the main Vandberg or Vangberg). These branches of road. fibers, somewhat entwined by weather, yet flexible and unique to that place, were used Photo: Erling Hansen as “wands” or scepters. I am told these flexi- Senior Center for dinner that evening, most- A happy group at Dalsnibba, 1500 meters above Geirangerfjord, during the August 2012 Heritage Tour. ble wands were referred to as “magic wands” ly octogenarians whose parents or grandpar- that dated back feudal kingdom days. ents were among the first settlers that opened Dakota Territory over 100 years ago. Kelsey Larson Over time, these wands developed The first-hand stories were compelling Managing Editor many practical uses, such as “crops” used by horsemen or coach drivers. In European to the student group of diverse national and military history, such wands were called international backgrounds about how it was These days, when the Internet dominates family, a choir, or a church group. Hansen “Swagger Sticks,” that were used by senior to grow up on the prairies in the “dirty thir- the tourism market and buying plane tickets has seen an increase in this kind of travel to officers to designate rank, while Sergeant ties” and during the “forties” when hundreds is just a matter of a few clicks, planning a Norway, especially among families. Majors carried a longer staff (like a drum of college classmates were killed in inva- trip by oneself can be easy. But, more than “Often there are grandparents that want major) when leading a parade. sions during WWII. ever, trips today lack the personal experience to take their kids and grandchildren on a tour I started our family legacy journey last One university student said, “I could that so greatly informs the planning process. to Norway, where their forefathers emigrat- week when I visited my hometown in North have read book after book about early his- Erling and Shelly Hansen at Nor-Am ed from. I can customize tours for smaller Dakota. I drove by the house where I was tory and heard many lectures, but I would Tours in Elkhorn, Wisc. offer carefully groups like that, and they can travel on born and parked in front of the old church not have learned as much as sitting here face planned and personalized trips, including their own, or I can go with them and escort for reminiscing about my father, as a country to face with those who lived it, and I thank heritage tours, that the Internet just couldn’t them,” Hansen says. “I really like to work pastor who served four rural congregations you for that.” plan for you. Unlike many tour agencies, with groups like that. I see it as a challenge from that town for 45 years. He served Nor- The students posted photos and blogged they are also flexible and willing to work to customize a tour where they get to see all way Lutheran Church for some years and as they traveled, and shared their stories with with the amount of planning you need. the places of interest for their family.” was instrumental in locating the gravesite of a vast “community” online. “The world has gotten a lot smaller with Hansen believes that heritage tourism is Sondre Norheim, the “Father of Modern Ski- “Heartwarming” is the word that best the Internet, and a lot of people that contact a very important part of the tourism indus- ing” who died near Towner as a homesteader describes my personalized experience of re- me have done a lot of good homework on try. “It brings another dimension to the vaca- in 1897. turning to the place where one grew up and their tour plans. I have realized that many tion. It is not only a tour where you get to see On the same day, my hometown of being “in touch” with childhood friends and like to do a lot of planning on their own, and beautiful scenery and eat good food, but you Towner was hosting a group of University lifelong acquaintances. I am very flexible on what the traveler wants also get to visit the farm where your great- of North Dakota students on a “Stone Soup Like the “student tour,” I intend to offer to do himself, and what I can do,” says Er- grandfather emigrated from, see the grave Tour” to conclude a day of learning about life a similar travel opportunity to my grandchil- ling Hansen. “But I have also gotten a lot of sites of your relatives, visit the church where in a ranch town four blocks wide and historic dren to learn first-hand about their Norwe- feedback from travelers that have really ap- grandma was baptized etc. It gives some from early wayfarers and subsequent immi- gian heritage. preciated my knowledge about Scandinavia, kind of a closure for many people,” he says. grant settlement. The students had forgone For my great grandchildren and beyond, and Norway in particular.” If you are on a heritage mission to Nor- their week’s spring break on sunny shores the visual Story Map of our family journey Hansen hails from Rennebu, Norway, way, Hansen can also help with the research elsewhere to experience rural communities over many generations and across two conti- so his knowledge comes naturally. “My wife side of things. “Before I moved to America, as selfdirected learning. nents is bound to be “magic in their minds” and I started Nor-Am Tours in Norway back I worked in the local parish of Church of Many residents gathered in the Towner and I will pass the wand forward. in 2002, as more or less a hobby at first,” Han- Norway, and was in charge of the cemeteries sen says. His wife, Shelly, is originally from in my community,” he says. “So I know ev- Wisconsin. “She had a background from the erything there is to know about cemeteries in tourism and hospitality industry, and I had Norway, and how to search for old graves.” been doing tours to Estonia (a former Soviet Besides heritage tours, Nor-Am Tours Union republic) from Norway. We decided offers plenty of great escorted tours to see to start planning tours for American groups the beautiful countryside of Norway. Cur- in Norway. The tours we did were really suc- rently, Nor-Am Tours is promoting a special cessful, so when we decided to move to the Pilgrim Tour. This trip will follow part of the U.S., we registered the company in Wiscon- revitalized Pilgrim Trail, which runs from sin and started our business here!” Oslo to the cathedral in Trondheim. The Hansens met in 1999, and were “So far it looks like we will have partici- married in Wisconsin in 2001. The couple pants from both Norway and America, and then moved to Norway. In 2004, this truly that is very exciting!” says Hansen. “There international family became even more so will be a hiking leader that will walk with when they adopted their children from Co- the group and show the way.” The group will lombia. Five years later, in 2009, the family reach Trondheim in time for the St. Olav moved back to the U.S. and settled in south- Festival Days, held at the end of July, in eastern Wisconsin. Shelly teaches at a high memory of St. Olav who died in the Battle of school, while Erling runs Nor-Am Tours. Stiklestad on July 29 in the year 1030. “Nor-Am Tours offer tours to Scandina- So, go ahead, click that mouse and plan via and Norway, both for independent trav- your trip to Norway; but don’t forget to add elers, and escorted tours,” Hansen explains. a personal element. For that, family-owned Photo: Lars Wanberg The business especially likes to work with Nor-Am Tours could be just what you are View from the window of original log room at the Vanberg Farm. pre-set groups, for example an extended looking for. norwegian american weekly March 29, 2013 • 19 Obituaries & Religion Pastor Larson’s Corner In Loving Memory Pastor Jerry Larson retired to his cabin in Zimmerman, Minn., after 39 years in parish ministry for the Evangelical Lutheran Church in America. In 2011 he Do you have a loved one or friend who has recently passed? published a book entitled “Speaking the Word Freely: Writing with purpose, Contact us at (206) 784-4617 or [email protected] to place an obituary. preaching with power.” Contact him at [email protected] Millard “Bill” Christianson April 26, 1924 – February 28, 2013 Teaching with authority Millard “Bill” ing with friends and family and playing with Christianson, 88, his grandchidren. Bill was a member of the We all have people we go to when Gospel we hear that these same Phari- Froelich, Iowa, died American Legion and St. Paul Lutheran we have difficulties in life. I have a me- sees were “astounded” when they heard Thursday, Feb. 28, Church in Monona. chanic that I trust completely. I always Jesus teach. 2013, at the Great Left to cherish his memory is his wife feel confident that my car will be well The teachings of Jesus are truly River Care Center, of sixty-five years, Mildred; his four- chil cared for when I bring it to him with my astounding. His teachings are like win- McGregor, Iowa. dren, Karen (Martin) Nissen of Cedar Rap- most troublesome problems. I have a dows into the mind of God. When we He was born on ids, Joan (Robert) Bolinger of Edgewood, dentist who I know will give me both the want to know what God is like, we turn April 26, 1924 to Bradley (Linda) Christianson of St. Olaf and correct diagnosis and treatment I require. to Jesus and His teaching. There we dis- Henry and Mathilda Kenny Christianson of Monona; five grand- I feel the same way about my medical cover the love and promises of God. This (Halverson) Chris- children, Angela (Gabe) Casanave, Billy doctor and my optometrist. All of these happens because as Jesus said, “I and the tianson Sr. in rural Clark, Michael Bolinger, Darcy Bolinger- people have great expertise in their re- Father are one.” When Jesus speaks, it Elgin, Iowa. Valverde and Kenny Christianson Jr.; four Millard enlisted into the U.S. Army great-grandchildren, Brooke Bolinger-Val- spective field. They explain things so I is God who speaks. The thousands of on Oct. 12, 1945 as a Medic and Surgical verde, Chloe Christiansen and Jordan and can understand them. Other people can people who heard Jesus teach knew that Technician. He had training at the Medical Chloe Clarke; his siblings, Delores (Fred) give me their opinion. If I want to know they were in the presence of an author- Department Enlisted Technicians School Waalk of West Union, Betty (Bob) Kurdel- the truth, I go to those who can speak ity. Jesus taught them as one who knew at Fitzsimons General Hospital in Denver, meyer of Monona, Velma Larson of Clinton, with authority. the mind of God. These same teachings Colo. After training, he served as Corporal Charles Christianson of Gowrie; brothers-in- Jesus surprised people because he of Jesus have come down also to us in with the 9206th Beach Detachment on board law, Merle Gregerson of Onalaska, Wisc., spoke with authority about God. The the Bible. They are a great treasury of ship with a tour of duty in Japan, Korea and Mervin Larson of Postville, Donnie (Rita) people Jesus taught had heard many reli- truth for us. They are truth that we can China. He received the victory medal for Larson of Elkader, Carroll Larson of Culver gious teachers in their day. The Pharisees believe because of the authority of the World War II and was honorably discharged City, Calif. and two sisters-in-law, Ruby Riv- never tired of telling the people what the teacher, Jesus Christ. on June 26, 1947. ers of Oelwein and Velma Berns of Elkader. will of God was for their lives. In Mark’s After being discharged from the Army, As well as many cousins, nieces, nephews, Bill worked for Joe Clark with farming. He and good friends. was united in marriage to Mildred Larson Millard was preceded in death by his on Jan. 29, 1948. They moved to Littleport parents; a daughter, Wanda Lou Christian- to start a family and to farm, they lived son; a grandson, Christopher Clark; three PER BREVIG there for 11 years. In 1961, they moved to brothers, Elmer, Clifford and Henry Jr. Froelich, Bill worked for the Farm Service Christianson; four sisters, Hazel Kjosa, Ge- Conducts Company for thirty years and then worked neva Lantz, Marjorie Martie and Agnes Gre- at the Monona Coop for twelve years until gerson. STRATHMERE FESTIVAL ORCHESTRA he retired. He enjoyed playing cards, visit- IN AN ALL MOZART PROGRAM JOSEPH RABBAI, CLARINET

< exchange Symphony no. 35 in D major From page 3 in North Dakota might evolve over time, in Concerto for Clarinet in A major the number of wells drilled, the amount of oil Symphony No. 39 in E flat major Scott Johnson, an instructor in petro- produced, the number of jobs, infrastructure leum engineering in UND’s College of En- requirements, water and electricity needs, FRIDAY APRIL 5, AT 8 p.m. gineering and Mines and principal adviser and roads.” CHURCH OF SAINT JOSEPH, NEW YORK UNIVERSITY with the college’s Institute for Energy Stud- The state already is grappling with im- 371 Sixth Avenue, Washington Place, NYC ies, said Davidsen was scheduled to arrive pacts of the oil development, Johnson said, Admission $ 30, $ 20 seniors and students Monday but may be delayed by weather. “but there still are plenty of choices available For information www.PerBrevig.net Johnson said the prospective research to North Dakota and the communities.” This will focus on system dynamics, or how vari- new connection with Norway recognizes ous public agencies and other entities under- “that there’s something we could learn from stand and deal with complex problems, such them and their experience.” Norwegian Lutheran Memorial Church as the effects of rapid development on infra- Bruce Gjovig, director of the Center for structure. Innovation at UND and a Norway booster, Den Norske Lutherske Minnekirke The Norwegian Lutheran Memorial Church offers the best venue in Chicago for Norwegians, Norway has become one of the world’s seconded the notion that Norwegians “have Scandinavians to gather and celebrate Norwegian traditions. We welcome you to our warm largest exporters of oil and gas since the dis- good expertise we can tap into,” and the and friendly family of members. Please visit us soon! Pastor: Sigurd Grindheim. covery of off-shore deposits in the 1960s, recent visit to UND by the nation’s energy and the country has dealt with many of the minister underscored Norway’s interest in April 2013 sorts of challenges North Dakota faces now, the Bakken. Johnson said. Statoil, the Norwegian energy giant Apr. 7 Norwegian Service Johnson, who started work at UND last majority-owned by the government, became Apr. 13 “Grøt fest” luncheon w/ guest author summer after a 30-year career in the oil and a major player in the Bakken in 2011. By gas industry, said the student and faculty re- acquiring Brigham Exploration, Statoil took Eric Dregni, 12 p.m. Reserve w/ search exchanges with Bergen could start in over drilling rights to 375,000 acres in the Karena (224) 622-3606 the fall. U.S. formation. Last October, the company Apr. 14 Norwegian Service w/ Holy Commu- Researchers may look at policy choices announced it had leased 1,000 railroad cars facing a variety of public and private stake- to carry Bakken crude to refineries on the nion holders as a result of rapid and substantial east and west coasts. Apr. 21 Norwegian Liturgy w/ English ser- oil development, Johnson said, as well as “What I find most interesting,” Gjovig unanticipated side effects “which are often said Monday, “is here is the world’s largest mon delayed and thus difficult to account for” in offshore oil developer taking a keen interest Apr. 28 English Service early planning. in learning about onshore development in All services are at 11 a.m. unless otherwise noted. They may produce research that helps the Bakken.” in “understanding how energy development 2614 North Kedzie Avenue, Chicago, IL 60647 • (773) 252-7335 • www.minnekirken.org 20 • March 29, 2013 Online: blog.norway.com/category/culture norwegian american weekly Arts & Style < forum From page 3 chair of the Department of Global Health and Social Medicine at Harvard Medical taught. Realizing he had the power to help School. Farmer stressed over and over that Calendar of Events his poverty stricken neighbors, Yunus be- without equity there is no peace. gan experimenting with collateral-free loans This idea was driven home through his What’s going on in your neighborhood? in 1976. The experiment was known as the specialty in healthcare. Farmer stressed that Grameen Bank Project and in 1983 the Gra- we live in one world, not three and we need California 16th Annual Ibsen Festival meen Bank became a full-fledged bank. to start realizing that the inequalities all over Yunus’ experiment and invention is the world are real-life problems and not just Scandinavian Festival April 12 – 14 what we now call microfinance. Microfi- problems in some far off land. Farmer bril- April 20 – 21 Lanesboro, Minn. liantly illustrated that we must view all in- Thousand Oaks, Calif. The 16th Annual Ibsen Festival features nance has been changing lives all over the world and is helping to solve poverty and dividuals as equal and give all individuals The 39th annual Scandinavian Festival at a world premiere adaptation by Jef- hunger on a global scale. equal access to all rights in order to facilitate the campus of California Lutheran Uni- frey Hatcher of Ibsen’s groundbreak- Although microfinance has become and live in a peaceful world. versity in Thousand Oaks, Calif. April ing masterpiece A Doll’s House. A wife a global phenomenon, Yunus continually Farmer’s work and ideas have created 20 – 21. Saturday from 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. must make a heart-breaking choice when stressed throughout his address that individ- community-based treatment plans and tac- Sunday from 10 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. Norse- the past threatens to destroy her perfect uals should not look at the world in terms of tics that deliver high quality healthcare even man lodge 6-091 will host our annual household. Ibsen’s classic is presented global problems but rather in terms of local in areas where means and funds are slim. food booth and membership booths. Two as the latest in a series of adaptations by problems. Yunus himself started on a local This incredible approach is fostered through Norseman ladies will join the Abba Girlz acclaimed playwright Jeffrey Hatcher level by lending his own money to a hand- the idea that all individuals deserve equal ac- for two shows a day. For more informa- and commissioned by the Commonweal ful of his neighbors in Bangladesh. Yunus is cess to healthcare. tion visit http://www.scandinaviancenter. Theatre. As always, the festival will in- a true testament to how every single person The final day of the forum was started org. clude lectures, fine art, music, post show discussions and many other events to has the power to be a peacemaker by simply by the keynote address from Robin Wright, a Canada put this work into context for a twenty- helping their neighbors and striving to solve journalist and foreign policy analyst special- problems in their own backyard. izing in the Middle East. Her amazing work Solglyt 4-143 Centennial Celebrations first century audience. For more - infor and numerous books have helped to describe April 20 – 21 mation call (800) 657-7025 or email: The opening keynote speaker for day Edmonton, Alberta [email protected]. Visit the two was Malcolm Potts, the Bixby Profes- the problems facing people in the Middle Solglyt Lodge 4-143 celebrates its cen- web site at http://www.ibsenfest.org. sor of Population and Family planning at East and to describe what the Middle East tennial on April 20 & 21. Explore 100 the University of California Berkley. Potts and Arabic world are really like. years – timeline of Solglyt Lodge. Ban- New York studies the genetics of violence and works The Forum left everyone in attendance quet tickets available; Scandinavian mu- Per Brevig conducts the Strathmere Fes- closely with women who have been victim- inspired, challenged, and changed. The key- sic on April 20th. April 21st – Nordic tival Orchestra ized by war. note speakers, laureate addresses, and break- Arts Fair with handicrafts, music and April 5 Potts addressed the realities of violence out lecturers were all amazingly intelligent Norwegian baking. We are happy to be New York City, N.Y. and war and how more often than not wom- and inspiring people who devote themselves 100 years old! For more information call Per Brevig will conduct the Strathmere en are the victims of both. Potts stressed that and their work to creating change and peace (780) 628-5005 or email: s o f n 2 0 1 3 @ Festival Orchestra in an all Mozart pro- giving women access to family planning in the world. The Nobel Peace Prize Forum gmail.com. Visit our website: http:// gram with Joseph Rabbai on clarinet. on a global level will create a more peace- in a truly moving and matchless confer- www.sofnedmonton.ca. The concert will include: Symphony no. ful world. His research and experience are ence, leaving its attendees with the advice to 35 in D major; Concerto for Clarinet in A showcased in his new book, Sex and War: view problems as local, to view all people Colorado major; Symphony No. 39 in E Flat ma- How Biology Explains War and Terrorism as equally important, and to actively pursue Authentic Norwegian Frokost jor. 8 p.m. at the Church of St. Joseph, and Offers a Path to a Safer World. peace in their lives. April 14 New York University, 371 Sixth Avenue, Potts reiterated the idea that unless Colorado Springs, Colo. Washington Place. Admission is $30, women are given full rights including those For more information about the Nobel Mark your calendar for Sunday, April $20 seniors and students. For informa- to their own body, our world will never be Peace Prize Forum, its goal, and the nu- 14, 2013, 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. We will tion www.perbrevig.net. peaceful. merous speakers and laureates, visit nobel- be serving all of the Norwegian items This same idea was reinforced by the peaceprizeforum.org. you have come to expect and even a few Washington keynote address given by Paul Farmer, the more. Coist is $17 for members and $19 Bothell Sons of Norway classes for non-members. Children 5-10 is $8. April 6 – 27 Karen Ravnaas, (719) 390-0621, will be Bothell, Wash. < northug taking reservations so make your Frokost Every Day Bunad Sewing Class: April 9, From page 1 Poland’s Justyna Kowalczyk, well ahead of reservations early as space will be lim- 10 and 11 from 9:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. Cost Norway’s Therese Johaug, with U.S.’s Kik- ited. For more information, visit http:// $50 to Bothell Sons of Norway members Crystal Globe. kan Randall in third. www.sonsofnorwaycs.com. and $60 for non-members. Registration Norway completed a one-two-three in Norway’s Rune Velta placed second in and payment is required by March 30. Sunday’s race, as Finn Haagen Krogh and the final ski jumping World Cup round of the Illinois Woodcarving 101 Class: Saturday, April Martin Johnsrud Sundby came in second season in Planica on Mar. 24. The winner Grøtfest with Guest Author 6, April 20 and April 27 from 9:30 a.m. and third. was Slovenia’s Jurij Tepes, and teammate April 13 – 3:00 p.m. Our instructor will be Jerry Russia’s Alexander Legkov finished Peter Prevc placed third. Velta’s placing also Chicago, Ill. Clapp, a well-known woodcarver in our second in the World Cup overall, 180 points secured the 2012 / 2013 Nations’ Cup for Beginning at 12 p.m., the luncheon will area. Supplies will be provided. Cost is back, just 17 points clear of Italy’s Dario Co- Norway, six points ahead of Austria. The last feature Risengrøt, Rømmegrøt, knekke- $30 to Bothell Sons of Norway members logna in third. time Norway won this cup was for the 2003 brød with cheese & sausage, and fruit. and $35 to non-members. Registration Norway’s Marit Bjørgen won the Mar. / 2004 season. Our guest, author Eric Dregni will share required. Please call Selma Snaring at 24 cross-country 10 km. pursuit to seal her Norway’s Eldar Rønning won the men’s his new book: “Vikings in the Attic,” (425) 385-2144. fourth World Cup Final crown in Falun, 15 km. classic mass start at Falun, ahead of which explores Scandinavian culture in Sweden. Russia’s Maxim Vylegzhanin, and with Nor- the Midwest. Copies will be available Olympia Norway Day The triple Olympic gold medalist in wegian teammate Martin Johnsrud Sundby for purchase. Eric relates his experiences April 20 Vancouver finished the mini tour in style in third. Olympia, Wash. in the Scandinavian world with humor, with a comfortable win, coming home 49.3 Compatriot Petter Northug had to set- There’s more to Norway than lutefisk while sharing information. The planned seconds clear of Norwegian compatriot tle for fourth place, but this was still good and lefse. Join us for our 7th annual Nor- menu and lively presentation should Therese Johaug, with Sweden’s Charlotte enough for Northug to extend his lead in way Day. Music, Nordic Cafe serving prove to be an enjoyable afternoon at Kalla finishing third. both the mini tour and the overall World Cup “ekte Norsk” food, scrumptuous bake ‘Minnekirken’! The Norwegian Luther- Injury at the start of the season meant standings ahead of the season-closing 15 sale, demonstrations, vendors, genealo- an Memorial Church is located at: 2614 that Bjørgen was never in contention for the km. freestyle on Mar. 24. N. Kedzie Blvd. in Chicago. The cost gy, fjord horses, Norwegian Elk Hounds overall World Cup title, which was won by for the luncheon is $10. For reservations and much more. For more information contact: Karena (224) 622-3606 or Bar- call (360) 923-1242, email: presi- bra (847) 823-7596. [email protected], or visit http://www.OlympiaNorwayDay. Support our advertisers! com. Minnesota * * * Send your event to [email protected] or call (206) 784-4617 The Weekly has the best advertisers in the world, and they love to be added to the Norway.com online calendar and the Weekly! hearing from you! Event listings are free, but space is limited. Please contact us at least one month prior to event. norwegian american weekly Online: blog.norway.com/category/norway-in-the-us March 29, 2013 • 21 In your neighborhood Norwegian American Weekly Photo of the Week Rønningen Ramblings with Heidi Håvan Grosch

Heidi was a long-time Minnesotan until she married her favorite Norwegian, Morten, and moved to his home country of Norway. As a recent immigrant she is experiencing Norway with a unique perspective, filling us in on the good, the bad and the unexpected!

Car Travel: Staying in a Rental Cabin or Hytte

Photo courtesy of Maxine Batrawi Joseph, Ben and Nicholas Olson with Harriet McHenry, President of Gulf Coast Vikings 3-683 in Fla. The boys won medals for ice skating.

Gratulerer med dagen! Kaare Nielsen March 7

Beaverton, Ore. Photo: Heidi Håvan Grosch An exterior view of the hytte at Geilo. Happy 90th birthday to my beloved husband Kaare Nielsen. Originally from Sand, Rogaland, Last fall my American parents, my Nor- small restaurant and both cabin and camp- Norway, in 1953 he moved to the wegian husband and I took a road trip cover- ing facilities, this spot was a gem. Traveling Pacific Northwest and became a ing over 3000 km. in a car through a great with four people we were able to cook our well-established accordian player deal of southwest Norway. As both part-time own dinners and breakfast, then ate out for tourists and part-time genealogists, we dis- lunch. Stryn Camping recommends reser- with “Kaare’s Trio” and also with covered many out-of-the-way churches, sto- vations during the busy season, but we just “The Midnight Suns.” ries, and places to stay along the way, as well called ahead the morning we planned on ar- as gathering tips and ideas that I will gladly riving and they had space. Much love from Joyce share with all of you. Geilo (http://www.geiloskisenter.no/en/ Think about traveling in the fall Accommodation/Geilolia-Cabins) Norwegian children go back to school Ski areas aren’t nearly as busy in Sep- mid August (and most Norwegians take their tember as they are in January, and therefore 1. april vacations in July), so by the second week lodging is readily available. Again, we just Lester B. Orfield Winter Park FL the tourist routes are less traveled, except happened upon this place… and we were Kjell Holmes San Diego CA for the wave of tour busses filled with non- wowed. Full kitchen with dishwasher, 3 bed- Jens Olaussen Bellingham WA Erika Karin Frautschi Seattle WA Norwegians squeezing in their fall vacation. rooms on two floors, fireplace, sauna, front Lee R. Gjovik Madison WI As a private traveler you will have no prob- and back porches… Too bad we only were lem seeing what you want to see or booking there one night! They even have a special 2. april accommodation without reservations. Many cabin outfitted with a Lego theme for family Helmer Breivik Seminole FL museums officially end their summer season groups! Ingvald J. Pederson Fairview OR 29. mars the last weekend in August, so by traveling Sverre Staurset Åndalsnes Norway Joan Vatn Seattle WA Janneth Andersen Seattle WA late summer you still have access to most Flåm (http://www.flaam-camping.no) Johannes Bjørnsen Trondheim Norway 3. april museums, sights and tours. The Flåm cabin was a little less private Marte Fritzen-Buan Harestua Norway Bertha Nataas Myking Norway as it was the main camping ground in the Bjørn Tjaaland Townsend MT Magdalene Emra Oregon City OR Stay in cabins area and included camping and youth hos- Betty Cooper San Diego CA We stayed in a number of hytter (cab- tel type accommodation in addition to the Patt Roche Port Townsend WA 4. april Jorunn Valaker-Leder San Antonio TX Robert A. Hall Jr. Ithaca NY ins) without reservations. Cabin signs dot cabin option. Here we had two bedrooms, Robert Sund Stanwood WA Kris W. Templin Seattle WA the roadways, and we just drove in and but the beds were bunks. The campground Barbara Moen Renton Berkeley CA Pastor Theodore Weltzin Watford City ND asked what they had available. is only minutes walking distance from the Loraine S. Johnson Jackson MN With only one exception we found Flåm railway, and I suggest you go over Arvid E. Spor Milwaukie OR 30. mars lodging on our first try, and only once did right when the ticket office opens to get your Sigurd Henriksen Tønsberg Norway Asbjørn Pedersen Rena Norway Sadie Solberg Langley WA Helge Rommesmo Fargo ND we have to use a bathhouse instead of hav- tickets for the Flåm. Unlike those traveling Arnold H. Seering Scandinavia WI ing a restroom in our cabin. Mostly, we got roundtrip from Bergen or Oslo on Norway in Denise M. Jorgens Chicago IL Want to see your birthday in the a two bedroom with bath, kitchen and living a Nutshell tours (combining a regular train, Norwegian American Weekly? room. Sometimes we had bunk beds, some- bus, boat and the Flåm), we parked our car 31. mars times regular beds. A few times we got really and took the Flåm Railway round trip. There Harold Lovdahl Milwaukee WI Olivia Ofstun Eastman WI Call at (800) 305-0217 or email naw@ lucky… see below. is also the option if you have the time and John Erik Lorentzen Staten Island NY norway.com. Birthdays must be submitted at energy to take the Flåm up and walk or bike Olav Barikmo Iola WI least one month in advance. Stryn Camping (http://www.strynsvatn. back. NB: Has someone on our birthday list passed no) away? Please notify us. With a beautiful view of the lake, a See > travel, page 22 22 • March 29, 2013 Online: blog.norway.com/category/norwegian-americans norwegian american weekly Norwegian heritage < gateway From page 16 the general “Scandinavia pass” and explore Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland by great, the staff was friendly, and prices were train. Prices range from $200 – $500 for generally a lot lower than what I might pay different packages. You can also purchase to fly between states in the U.S. Read more just Norway-Sweden passes or Denmark- at http://www.norwegian.com/en. Sweden passes, depending on what part of If budget flying is your cup of tea, don’t Scandinavia you are most interested in. Read forget to look at Ryan Air, Europe’s well- more at http://www.eurail.com. known budget airline. Flying out of Torp air- port in Sandefjord, about an hour and a half Via wheels from Oslo, Ryan Air offers tickets to many If the all-of-the-above strikes you as too different locations in Scandinavia and Eu- expensive, don’t discount the bus. Eurolines rope. Though you must be sure to print your busses also offer various passes, which in- boarding pass at home, and might have to sit clude discounted stays at hotels and hostels. through annoying advertisements onboard, After a trip in 2010 during which Iceland’s your wallet will thank you later. Read more famous volcano, Eyjafjallajökull, erupt- at http://www.ryanair.com/en. ed, leaving my travel companions and me stranded in Germany with cancelled plane Scandinavia via Eurail tickets and short on money, the bus from Photo: John Barry Do planes and cruise ships not speak to Hamburg to Copenhagen and from Copen- Beautiful mountains to the south of Saltfjorden – as the train approached Bodø. you? Never fear; Eurail offers several won- hagen to Oslo was a life-saver (if a rather derful passes for a comprehensive travel- long, crowded one). Read more at http:// by-rail plan through Scandinavia. Order www.eurolines.com/en. < bargain From page 15 over bridges and past waterfalls, and passes Trollveggen and Romsdalshorn, terminat- < unesco “Minutt for Minutt” series, this NRK video ing in Åndalsnes. The conductor may slow From page 17 takes you along for the 729 km. ride. It seam- down the train and point out features along lessly splices together videos of the ride from the way. the four seasons so that the viewer can take We highly recommend train travel in Vega Archipelago the “real time” 10-hour train ride through all Norway. Besides its beauty, it is also a bar- An historical site of a larger scale, the four seasons. gain and especially if one can take advantage Vegaøyan, or the Vega Archipelago, consists NSB offers other spectacular train rides. of the minipris tickets. of a dozen islands providing a snapshot of a NRK’s “Minutt for Minutt’s” premiere show A caveat: NSB has stopped accepting unique way of life from the past. The islands featured Bergen Railway, the beautiful and U.S. credit cards both online and over the show the simple and frugal way of life built popular train ride between Bergen and Oslo. phone. You may want to check with NSB if around fishing and the unique harvesting the The Rauma Railway, which we have had the you want to make reservations. Tickets must down of eider ducks, remarkable given the opportunity to take, is another spectacular be purchased at least one day in advance. harsh conditions. Evidence of human settle- train ride. It leaves the Dovre Railway at The minipris tickets are limited and avail- ment on the islands dates back to the Stone Dombås and travels along the Rauma River, ability and price may vary. Age and is still home to some folk today. Just south of the Arctic Circle, the natural conditions were undoubtedly inhospitable, but did not stop the civilians from incredible < spirit sustainable living. Today there is an increas- From page 9 the crew, the crew takes care of us. That is a Norwegian spirit in practice,” said Peter. ing effort to utilize the islands’ resources as a way to preserve the rich cultural traditions different things to the table, at the same time They took good care of all of the pas- and ecological diversity. as they are all trained to the same standards,” sengers on the cruise too, and treated us like Without surprise, fjords are widely Photo: CH – Visitnorway.com he said. we were guests in their own homes. Some of them spend up to 9 months aboard at a considered significant natural landmarks The famous Bryggen, the Hanseatic wharf for Norway. The West Norwegian Fjords, in Bergen. The Norwegian spirit time, which makes this cruise giant a kind of consisting of Geirangerfjord and Nærøyf- Peter believes the Norwegian spirit lies a family home for them. Several had worked jord were specifically chosen as UNESCO in the way the company takes care of their many years in the same company, and said you with an awe you will certainly not for- natural world heritage sites. These two staff. “We are all treated equal with a man- they would not think about going anywhere get. fjords are among the world’s longest and agement system that goes from bottom to else. Other World Heritage sites in Norway deepest, situated north-east of Bergen, part top. People communicate on a personal ba- So, in spite of the fact that Norwegian include the colorful Bergen wharf of Bryg- of a landscape stretching from Stavanger sis and try to solve problems face-to-face. In waffles no longer were served on the bridge, gen, the Røros Mining Town and the Struve to Åndalsnes. These fjords specifically are this way the ship is supported strongly by the we felt safe and well taken care of by a bunch Geodetic Arc. considered archetypical and among the most management ashore, instead of the opposite, of smiling crew from all over the world, real- So on your next trip to Norway, consid- visually stunning in the world. With narrow which is not the case for some other com- izing there still is some Norwegian spirit left er penciling in some of these historical sites and steep crystalline rock walls rising 1,400 panies. We have a saying; if we take care of at sea. to your itinerary. Take the time to enjoy all of meters from the Norwegian Sea, these fjords the beauty and fascination. You might even exhibit incredible natural beauty. Numerous learn something, gaining a renewed insight waterfalls and rivers adorn the fjord land- and appreciation for the history and cultural < tr av el scape, amidst the forests, glaciers and moun- wealth of the land. It just goes to show, there From page 21 pare what you have (although basic tain terrain. Cultural history meets the dra- is always something exciting and intriguing pots and pans are usually provided matic natural setting with abandoned farms about Norway, even if it is far from cutting Prices as well as a means of boiling water) resting in the valley, providing a picturesque edge and new. For cabins we paid an average of $160 / • Toilet paper glimpse of old Norway. The views will leave night (for four beds / two bedrooms… com- • Flashlight pare that to a hotel where you might pay • Camping shoes (practical shoes) $150 – 200 for one room with two beds). • Rain gear Every place we stayed was very clean, and • A warm jacket although usually stocked with basic pots and • Can opener / corkscrew (to be on pans, it doesn’t hurt to have a few essentials the safe side) along. • Thermos if you want to carry coffee • Games to play in the evenings (al- What to pack if traveling by car and stay- though sometimes there is a TV) ing in cabins (this list is from my mother) • Sleeping sack or sleeping bag and NAF (www.naf.no / http://www.nafcamp. pillow case (although you can usu- com) ally rent bedding for an additional Ask AAA before you go about recipro- cost) – duvets and pillows are pro- cal agreements with NAF. I know when we vided rented a car (we got 10 – 20% discount) and • Towel, washcloth, soap went to museums with AAA discounts, our Photo: Espen Mills / TasteOfNationalTouristRoutes.com / Visitnorway.com • Food – and what you need to pre- NAF card worked the same way. Urnes Stave Church. norwegian american weekly March 29, 2013 • 23 Travel Issue < hardangervidda From page 14 on our skis without having to put any effort other hytte it really feels like you are being on this last day was to reach Ustaoset to into technique at all. Although very windy, welcomed into somebody’s home. The ambi- catch the train back to Oslo, having prepaid all staffed hytter, you can make yourself a the skies were blue, and we seemed to drift ence of the place is resplendent with the ever the ticket to reduce costs. After breakfast, pack lunch at breakfast from the buffet, for along in a knee-deep layer of blowing snow, present smell of freshly cooked waffles, and however, it was apparent that the weather which you pay a fixed amount, and for an- so it appeared we were wading through a what waffles they were. We had been told by was still too bad to set off, so we decided to other small fee you can have your water flask white liquid. Because of the ease of travel, other guests that we had to try the waffles, wait a while and see what happened. Some filled. Again, the day proved a challenging we were able to relax and so we did. On time later we felt the wind had died down journey due to weather, but we were safe in a little and soak up being served the sufficiently, so we left the cabin with our our knowledge: we had taken advice from the many breathtak- waffles by Aileen, I German friends. the locals; we knew others were ahead of ing vistas that were made the mistake of After only 500 meters, and not being and behind us; and we had discovered an laid out before us; asking her whether able to see from one birch branch to the efficient “jungle telegraph” system in opera- and that, after all, she had any jam and next, we realized our folly and returned to tion between the various hytte. As a result was what we were crème fraiche to the hytte. Several hours later, with no let- of this, the host at each establishment had a there for. Although go with it, and the up in the weather conditions and seeing our very good idea how many people were trav- a harsh and danger- look I received was predicament, our hosts very kindly offered elling toward them and from which neigh- ous wilderness, com- easily equal to the to run us over the mountain on their snow boring hytte, providing a very comforting pletely void of trees stony stare of Me- scooter to get us through the worst of the safety blanket. due to the height, it dusa herself! Suit- weather. That trip in itself was quite an ad- We subsequently arrived at Krækkja is nevertheless quite ably chastized, I bit venture and we will never forget the kind- without mishap to find another cozy, staffed beautiful, even mes- into the bare waffle ness shown by Peter that day. I’m sure he DNT hytte. The food was once more plen- merizing, and it was and – bang! Wow! himself regretted setting off a few times, as tiful and tasty and was gratefully washed easy to understand I had just taken my we had to keep digging the machine out of down with a cold beer (I had been saving for the draw of similar first bite of what are large snow drifts. All was well though when some time before the trip so was able to af- such landscapes at unquestionably the we suddenly emerged into bright sunshine ford one beer per night!). The only downside the poles to those ex- best waffles in the and a dead calm once we were in the lea of to Krækkja was that the toilets were housed plorers of old. It also Photo: Mark Treleaven-Jones world. the mountain. We donned our skis for the last in a separate building. This wouldn’t have dawned on me how Aileen at Tuva Turisthytte, guardian of the top se- I soon found time and waved goodbye to Peter before de- been a big problem in itself if it wasn’t for much more proficient cret waffle recipe. out that the recipe scending to Ustaoset and catching the train the howling gale and freezing temperatures, I was becoming on for said waffles is back to Oslo. and it didn’t take much imagination to work skis due to the com- a closely guarded And so we finished our trip. We had out why so many people were retiring to bed plete immersion in this way of travel over family secret and, although I pestered Aileen gained some fantastic memories, good and with large empty beer glasses! the preceding few days. I had undergone a constantly during our brief stay, I was not to bad, but by far mostly good. We had made By the following morning the wind was transformation from the “Bambi on ice” get a copy, even on pain of death should I new friends, gained experience and learned still quite strong, but it was blowing in our di- style to a much more confident and relaxed divulge it to anyone else! In fact, now the a lot of lessons. My skiing had improved by rection of travel and we had agreed to spend approach and even found myself, on the oc- search for Bin Laden is over, I think the leaps and bounds, and Hanne realized that this day with a German couple we had met casions we were being blown along by the CIA would make a far better contribution to you don’t need all the mod cons of modern the night before. We had also discussed the wind, producing my camera and filming the world peace by attempting to secure the reci- travel to have a wonderful holiday. We had intended path with our host who assured us it progress of my companions. pe; they really are that good. Tuva celebrates also discovered, and fallen in love with, the was safe to travel. On the basis of “safety in We arrived at Tuva Turisthytte to be its centenary in 2015, and I fully intend on beauty of the Hardangervidda and surround- numbers,” we set off for with our newfound welcomed by the coziest lodge so far. Tuva returning that year in the hope Aileen may ing mountains. Will we do it again? Yes, friends to our last venue, Tuva. As it hap- is privately owned by Aileen and Peter, who relax security during the celebrations! most definitely; in fact, I already have, but pened, this particular day was an absolute embrace guests as members of an extended The following morning we awoke to that is another story. dream as we were quite literally blown along family. Because it is smaller than some of the what was pretty much a whiteout. Our aim

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