Tourism and Mobility in Italian Colonial Libya
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Chapter 4 Tourism and Mobility in Italian Colonial Libya Brian L. McLaren From February 26 to March 14, 1925, Major Valentino Babini carried out a raid automobilistico from the coastal town of Tripoli to the oasis settlement of Gh- adames on the edge of the Saharan desert.1 Babini was accompanied by art critic and writer Raffaele Calzini, who published a book, Da Leptis Magna a Gadames, that chronicled this sometimes perilous journey in the form of a travel diary.2 The two were joined in this excursion by a second military of- ficer, nine soldiers, one military photographer, and one civilian filmmaker and photographer who had been commissioned to document the experience. The group traveled this route of some 600 kilometers in each direction with a convoy of five trucks equipped with 1,000 liters of water and over 500 liters of gasoline – a quantity that was said to be sufficient to last up to ten days of travel in this pre-desert region. The map drawn by Babini, which documented his successful negotiation of a challenging physical landscape, has the appearance of a carefully planned military operation. This fusion of a motorized tourist excursion with the military surveillance of the territory should be no surprise, as the south-western region of Tripolitania had only recently returned to Ital- ian control. This was due to the efforts of General Rodolfo Graziani, who just over a year earlier led a successful mission to capture this oasis settlement as part of the so-called reconquest of Tripolitania initiated by Governor Giuseppe Volpi.3 The drawing also reveals the treacherous terrain of a region that until that time had been deemed impassible, even by the most modern motorized vehicles available. This excursion was conducted in preparation for a similar, though far more symbolic, trip that took place just three months later, in late-May of 1925. 1 Babini, Valentino, “Relazione del raid”, Archivio Storico Ministero degli Affari Esteri (hereaf- ter asmae), Ministero dell’Africa Italiana (hereafter mai) 3–154, Fascicolo – Raid automobil- istico, 16 March 1925. Note that “raid” is an English word that was used in Italian to reference an adventurous form of travel that was a hybrid of a military raid and a sporting or leisure- based car rally. 2 Calzini, Raffaele, Da Leptis Magna a Gadames (Milan: Fratelli Treves Editori, 1926). 3 Del Boca, Angelo, Gli italiani in Libia. Dal fascismo al Gheddafi (Bari-Rome: Giuseppe Laterza e Figli, 1991), pp. 36–7. The capture of Ghadames took place from 7–15 February, 1924. © koninklijke brill nv, leiden, ���8 | doi �0.��63/9789004369498_005 <UN> Tourism and Mobility in Italian Colonial Libya 79 This trip transported Volpi, who had just stepped down as governor, from Tripoli to Ghadames and back in a total of ten travel days. The former governor was joined by an entourage of distinguished guests that included his wife and daughter, General Graziani and his wife, the duke of Spoleto and his wife, and the contessa Lina Bianconcini Cavazza – who directed the Bolognese artisanal company, Aemila Ars. The rhetorical dimension of this trip is clearly evident in a telegram sent by Volpi to the Minister of the Colonies immediately following his return to Tripoli, which stated: “this raid has demonstrated that the Tripoli- Ghadames route can be completed in five days and that the extreme western territory [of the colony] is perfectly safe”.4 Despite the precarious hold that Italy held over the Fezzan region, which was not stabilized until at least 1932, this tourist excursion was intended to reflect a freedom of movement that, it was hoped, would spur economic expansion. At this early stage of the develop- ment of this colony, it was argued that the presence of Italian and foreign trav- elers was highly desirable. In the book, La rinascità della Tripolitania, which commemorated the four years of the governorship of Volpi (1921–25), the tour- ism industry was presented as having the potential to be the most important factor in the industrial expansion of the region. Tourism was also discussed in this volume in relation to the “politics of transportation”, where it was seen as a “new source of prosperity and movement for the Colony”.5 Of particular interest in this case is the fact that the establishment of colo- nial order by the Italians was tied to the creation of infrastructures of trans- portation that would eventually support the tourist experience of the region. However, the principle of movement in Libya was more than just a propel- ling mechanism for a modernization process that fostered increasing levels of mobility for Italians. It was closely tied to the indigenous politics that put an equivalent effort into the control of the local populations. In his book, Mobilities, British sociologist John Urry speaks of the explicitly class-based experience of mobility in our contemporary culture, with those of greatest wealth, what he calls the “mobile elite”, being able to escape the confines of a single home and nationality. Notably, Urry also speaks about the opposite tendency, stating: “most attempts at restricting the ‘right’ to mobility have been associated with forms of state intervention that stigmatize certain groups on the basis of color, religion, ethnicity or cultural practice”.6 In reference to the arguments of Urry, this chapter will assert that while the relationship between 4 Telegram from Volpi to the Minister of the Colonies, asmae, mai 3-154, 31 May 1925. 5 La rinascità della Tripolitania. Memorie e studi sui quattro anni di governo del Conte Giuseppe Volpi di Misurata (Milan: Casa Editrice A. Mondadori, 1926), pp. 511–12. 6 Urry, John, Mobilities (Cambridge, uk and Malden, ma: Polity Press, 2007), p. 205. <UN>.