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CONNE C TI C UT SEA KAYA K ER S September 1998 AROUND M A NH A TT A N ISL A ND by Jim Mathews IN TEN HOURS Bob Efron with his son Jay Al Ysaguirre (Capt. Al) Jim Mathews nce I had become aware of for several months with my ConnYak bravado was the primarily expressed the opportunity to circumnavigate friends thinking that there was a lot of emotion. The questions included: how Manhattan Island by kayak, it interest and gaining in the belief that long would it take?, was it going to be becameO something that I knew I had to there would be a lot familiar faces for the rough water?, would the 20 mile an hour do. As a newly enrolled member of day’s event. As it turned out, there was wind make the afternoon 13 mile down- MASK, (Metropolitan Association of Sea only a small contingent of ConnYak river run from the George Washington Kayakers) I had received my first news- members, Bobby Curtis, a veteran of Bridge an eternity as it was last year?, letter and there to my delight, was the many previous trips, Bob Efron, his son will the ferry boats keep their distance? announcement of their annual circum- Jay, and me at the Liberty Island State Capt. Al said that the trickiest part of navigational event to be held on July 11. Park launch site at the appointed hour. the paddle would occur right away with Immediately I began to experience a set Bob and I agreed that we would stay the two mile crossing of the harbor past of diverse emotions that would persist together throughout the day. Governors Island because the current, up until the trip and then throughout the I had traveled down to New York City winds and large boat wakes all work 33 miles and 10 hours of the paddle the night before and tented at a camp- against themselves and then reflect off itself. I was: thrilled with the opportuni- ground on the water’s edge right next to the rocky shallow shoreline of the island ty to cruise under my own power around Liberty Park, because there was to be an creating some very confusing water. the city that was my home for the first 21 8:30 launch and a long day of paddling. “Stay away from the shoreline and you years of my life; scared to go through the The sun had just set, creating a brilliant should be all right”, he cautioned. “Any legendary wild waters of Hell’s Gate (the pallet of colors in the magnificent New other questions?”. “Okay, we have to get confluence of three rapidly moving bod- York City skyline across the harbor. The going in order to have the currents going ies of water), awed by the thought of wind was howling as it blew across the with us all the way.” We were off! passing beneath some of the tallest and Hudson River from the World Trade The water in the bay behind the Statue longest bridges in the world; worried Center making the setting up of a tent a of Liberty was like glass and as we made about my endurance to go such a dis- struggle which might have been a fore- our way out the channel towards the tance; and confident that I could do it. shadowing of what was to come the next Statue glowing in the morning’s golden I read the article describing last year’s day. sunshine, the surface began to take on a trip, called and spoke to many people At the appointed hour Captain Al few ripples. After taking a picture or who had completed the trip previously, Ysaguirre, the President of MASK, two it was out into the harbor where we and received different information from briefed the 23 souls who rallied around were no longer protected from the wind each. For some it was exhausting, for him in the warm early morning sunlight. that was getting stronger and where the others it was refreshing. For some it was Some had traveled from as much as sev- water was becoming more and more agi- scary, for others is was relaxing. For eral hundred miles away and each of us tated. As we headed into the center of some it was challenging, for others it was possessed some combination of excite- the Harbor, a blue New York City Police just a long day. I talked about the trip ment and anxiety although bravery and Boat appeared which would be our escort for the morning to protect us from famous Hell Gate where waters fre- set up large waves and impede our prog- the very large boat traffic that plied the quently collide creating a very unstable ress if it was blowing from the south as it busy shipping lanes. The further we platform of water just to be on let alone had the year before. As luck would have went, the wilder the water got, and then paddle. The large standing waves can it, there was compensation for our morn- the full fury hit and we were in the most easily catch your paddle instigating the ing thrill ride and we would have a fast turbulent waters I had ever tried to nego- possibility of an undesired roll into paced and smooth three hour trip down tiate. Remembering the words of Capt. waters which had some evidence of the 13 miles of Hudson River, which Al’s caution, I pried myself further away sewage floating. Fortunately, Capt. Al went under the George Washington from the southern tip of Governors had the timing just right and the area Bridge, past Riverside Church, Grants Island and then I heard the loudest was calm and our first of two stopping Tomb, The Javitts Center, Chelsea Piers drawing of one’s breath I could imagine, spots was just ahead. We stopped at and finally Ellis Island. The group was as veteran Bobby Curtis pumped up his Mill Rock, an island in the middle of now well spread out and as we got to adrenaline. Well, if Bobby was con- the river that the New York City Parks within touching distance of the Statue of cerned, can you imagine what went Department claims as one of its proper- Liberty for the second time that day, through my mind? Then right in front of ties. Henry Espinoza, who rides point Capt. Al who stayed at the end of the my eyes, I saw the first of three paddlers for the trip, was directing us into a group throughout the journey suggested who would capsize, then a second, and cove where we took the boats out of to the few that were still with him that then the third. Picking our way through the water for a short while. The Island we turn around and see a view of the the waves that came from every which is barren and had just enough room for skyline of New York that was superb. way, Bob Efron asked me if I should help us to gather, making us wonder how it He was most certainly correct. the overturned man who was closest to was possible for them to have had 59 Then we were back again at the foot of us or should he. I would have had to paddlers there last year. the great green lady still standing majes- turn around to get back to him and Bob Once refreshed we were off again, tically now in the warm late afternoon was just coming up along side of him so heading into the Harlem River where some ten hours later. It was just a short I said: “do it!” Once we were clear of the we then had to share the river with 22 paddle back up the channel to the launch island and in the protection of a wharf, swimmers engaged in the annual site where donuts and Gatorade awaited we all took time to catch our breath and Manhattan Swim Marathon. Each of the courageous and invigorated band of quietly exchange those looks that only the red hatted swimmers had a motor paddlers. survivors know. Bob had joined us after boat and kayak escort, making the river Capt. Al looked proud of his flock and the rescue. Capt. Al had rescued the sec- seem quite crowded, especially when his flock looked proud of themselves. ond and the Police had plucked the third other large boats squeezed through the out and taken him back to the launch site now narrowed channel. Passing under saying that he had had enough. eleven more bridges brought us to The next part of the Harbor was much Spuyten Duyvil where Columbia calmer or maybe it just looked so, rela- University has its boathouse, an old tive to what we had just been through. A haunt of mine from my days of being beautiful view of the lower end of on the college crew team. The water Manhattan offered views of the World had become choppy again at the very Trade Center, the Staten Island Ferry northern tip of the Island where we slips and the Battery. Once we were were soon to enter and cross the safely into the East River, we all joined Hudson River. up again, and proceeded on past the It was like deja vu with the return of South Street Pier and under the three the wild waters we had met that morn- long bridges that span the river over to ing.

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